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PRESENTED BY 






THE ALBERT N'YANZA. 




The Murchison Kails, about kao feet high, from the Victoria Nile or Somerset River, b. the level 

of the Albert Lake. 



THE 

ALBBET N'YANZA 

GEE AT BASIN OF THE NILE, 

AND 

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NILE SOURCES. 



SIE SAMUEL W. BAKEB,, M.A. E.B.G.S. 

GOLD MEDALLIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. 



WITH MAPS, ILLUSTRATIONS, AND PORTRAITS. 



J. B. LIPPINCOTT AND CO. 
1869. 

Rigid of Translation reserved. 






LONDON : 

R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS, 

BREAD STREET HILL. 









<r^ 



C0 Iter 8tost (Irracws gtaj^stg 

THE QUEEN 
J 

I DEDICATE, WITH HER PERMISSION, 

THIS BOOK, 

CONTAINING THE STORY OP THE DISCOVERY OF THE GREAT LAKE 

FROM WHICH THE NILE ULTIMATELY PLOWS, 

AND WHICH, 

AS CONNECTED SO INTIMATELY, 

AS A NILE SOURCE, WITH THE VICTORIA LAKE, 

I HAVE VENTURED TO NAME 

"THE ALBERT N'YANZA;' 

IN MEMORY OF THE LATE ILLUSTRIOUS AND LAMENTED 

PRINCE CONSORT. 



. 



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Av Maguruio ih&Lakaw^is seen- to extend 
towards low ground/ on, the- U~. W. cut> its 
limits are unknown. 



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PREFACE. 



TN the history of the Nile there was a void : its Sources 
■*- were a mystery. The Ancients devoted much atten- 
tion to this problem ; but in vain. The Emperor Nero 
sent an expedition under the command of two centu- 
rions, as described by Seneca. Even Eoman energy failed 
to break the spell that guarded these secret fountains. 
The expedition sent by Mehemet Ali Pasha, the cele- 
brated Viceroy of Egypt, closed a long term of unsuccessful 
search. 

The work has now been accomplished. Three English 
parties, and only three, have at various periods started 
upon this obscure mission : each has gained its end. 

Bruce won the source of the Blue Nile ; Speke and 
Grant won the Victoria source of the great White Nile ; 
and I have been permitted to succeed in completing the 
Nile Sources by the discovery of the great reservoir of the 
equatorial waters, the Albeet N'yanza, from which the 
river issues as the entire White Nile. 

Having thus completed the work after nearly five years 
passed in Africa, there still remains a task before me. 1 



viii PREFACE. 

must take the reader of this volume by the hand, and 
lead him step by step along my rough path from the 
beginning to the end; through scorching deserts and 
thirsty sands; through swamp, and jungle, and inter- 
minable morass ; through difficulties, fatigues, and sickness, 
until I bring him, faint with the wearying journey, to that 
high cliff where the great prize shall burst upon his 
view — from which he shall look down upon the vast 
Albert Lake, and drink with me from the Sources of 
the Nile ! 

I have written " he !" How can I lead the more tender 
sex through dangers and fatigues, and passages of savage 
life? A veil shall be thrown over many scenes of 
brutality that I was forced to witness, but which I will 
not force upon the reader ; neither will I intrude anything 
that is not actually necessary in the description of scenes 
that unfortunately must be passed through in the journey 
now before us. Should anything offend the sensitive 
mind, and suggest the unfitness of the situation for a 
woman's presence, I must beseech my fair readers to 
reflect, that the pilgrim's wife followed him, weary and 
footsore, through all his difficulties, led, not by choice, 
but by devotion; and that in times of misery and sick- 
ness her tender care saved his life and prospered the 
expedition. 

" woman, in our hours of ease 
Uncertain, coy, and hard to please, 
And variable as the shade 
By the light quivering aspen made ; 
When pain and anguish wring the brow, 
A ministering angel thou ! " 



PREFACE. ix 

In the journey now before us I must request some 
exercise of patience during geographical details that may 
be wearisome ; at all events, I will adhere to facts, and 
avoid theory as much as possible. 

The Botanist will have ample opportunities of straying 
from our path to examine plants with which I confess a 
limited acquaintance. The Ethnologist shall have pre- 
cisely the same experience that I enjoyed, and he may 
either be enlightened or confounded. The Geologist will 
find himself throughout the journey in Central Africa 
among primitive rocks. The Naturalist will travel through 
a grass jungle that conceals much that is difficult to 
obtain : both he and the Sportsman will, I trust, accom- 
pany me on a future occasion through the "Nile tribu- 
taries from Abyssinia," which country is prolific in all that 
is interesting. The Philanthropist, — what shall I promise 
to induce him to accompany me? I will exhibit a pic- 
ture of savage man precisely as he is ; as I saw him ; and 
as I judged him, free from prejudice: painting also, in 
true colours, a picture of the abomination that has been 
the curse of the African race, the slave trade ; trusting 
that not only the philanthropist, but every civilized being, 
will join in the endeavour to erase that stain from 
disfigured human nature, and thus open the path now 
closed to civilization and missionary enterprise. To the 
Missionary, — that noble, self-exiled labourer toiling too 
often in a barren field, — I must add the word of caution, 
'Wait"! There can be no hope of success until the 
slave trade shall have ceased to exist. 

The journey is long, the countries savage ; there are 



x PREFACE. 

no ancient histories to charm the present with memories 
of the past; all is wild and brutal, hard and unfeeling, 
devoid of that holy instinct instilled by nature into the 
heart of man — the belief in a Supreme Being. In that 
remote wilderness in Central Equatorial Africa are the 
Sources of the Nile. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Introduction xxi 

CHAPTER I. 

THE EXPEDITION. 

Programme — Start from Cairo — Arrive at Berber — Plan of Explora- 
tion — The River Atbara — Abyssinian Affluents — Character of Rivers 
— Causes of Nile Inundations — Violence of the Rains — Arrival at 
Khartoum — Description of Khartoum — Egyptian Authorities — Taxes 
— The Soudan — Slave-Trade of the Soudan — Slave-Trade of the 
White Nile — System of Operations — Inhuman Proceedings — Negrc 
Allies — Revelations of Slave-Trade — Distant Slave Markets — Pro- 
spects of the Expedition — Difficulties at the Outset — Opposition of 
the Egyptian Authorities — Preparations for Sailing — Johann Schmidt 
— Demand for Poll-Tax — Collision before starting — Amiable Boy ! 
— The Departure — The Boy Osman — Banks of White Nile — Change 
in Disposition of Men — Character of the River — Misery of Scene — 
River Vegetation — Ambatch Wood — Johann's Sickness — Uses of 
Fish-skin — Johann Dying — Johann's Death — New Year — Shillook 
Villages — The Sobat River — Its Character — Bahr Giraffe — Bahr el 
Gazal — Observations — Corporal Richarn — Character of Bahr el Gazal 
— Peculiarity of River Sobat — Tediousness of Voyage — BullBuffalo — 
Sali Achmet killed— His Burial— Ferocity of the Buffalo— "The 
Clumsy " on the Styx— Current of White Nile— First View of Na- 
tives — Joctian and his Wife — Charming Husband — Natron — Catch 
a Hippopotamus—" Perhaps it was his Uncle " — Real Turtle is 
Mock Hippopotamus — Richarn reduced to the Ranks — Arrival at the 
Zareeba — Fish Spearing — The Kytch Tribe — White Ant Towers — 
Starvation in the Kytch Country — Destitution of the Natives — The 
Bull of the Herd — Men and Beasts in a bad Temper — Aboukooka — 
Austrian Mission Station — Sale of the Mission-House — Melancholy 
Fate of Baron Harnier — The Aliab Tribes — Tumuli of Ashes — The 
Shir Tribe — The Lotus Harvest — Arrival at Gondokoro — Discharge 
Cargo Page 1 — 56 

CHAPTER II. 

BAD RECEPTION AT GONDOKORO. 

Reports of Speke and v Grant — The Bari Tribe — Description of the 
Natives — Effects of poisoned Arrows — Hostility of the Bari Tribe — 
Atrocities of the Trading Parties — Lawlessness at Gondokoro — A 



vii CONTENTS. 

Boy shot — The first Mutiny — Decision of my "Wife — The Khartoum 
Escort — Arrival of Speke and Grant — Gladness at meeting them — 
Their Appearance — Speke and Grant's Discoveries — Another Lake 
reported to exist — Speke's Instructions — Arrange to explore the 
Luta N'zige — Scarcity at Gondokoro— Speke and Grant depart to 
Khartoum. . . Page 57 — 71 

CHAPTER III. 

GTJN ACCIDENT. 

Gun Accident — Birds ruin the Donkeys — Arrangement with Mahom- 
med — His Duplicity — Plot to obstruct my Advance — The Boy Saat 
— History of Saat — First Introduction to Saat — Turned out by 
Mistake — Saat's Character — Something brewing — Mutiny of Escort 
— Preparation for the worst — Disarm the Mutineers — Mahommed's 
Desertion — Arrangement with Koorshid Aga — The last Hope gone 
— Expedition ruined — Resolution to advance — Richarn faithful — 
Bari Chief's Report — Parley with Mutineers — Conspiracy again — 
Night Visit of Fadeela — " Quid pro Quo " — " Adda," the Latooka — 
Arrange to start for Latooka — Threats of Koorshid's People — Deter- 
mination to proceed — Start from Gondokoro — My own Guide. 

Page 72—91 

CHAPTER IV. 

FIRST NIGHT'S MARCH. 

Bivouacking — Arrival at Belignan — Attempts at Conciliation — I shame 
my Men — The March — Advantages of Donkeys — Advice for Tra- 
vellers — Want of Water — A forced March — Its Difficulties — Delays 
on the Road — Cleverness of the Donkeys — Party dead-beat — Im- 
providence of Monkey — We obtain Water — Native Tit-Bits — Sur- 
rounded by Natives — Cross-Examination — Recognition of the Chief 
— Interest of Natives — The Monkey Wallady — We leave Tollogo — 
The Ellyria Pass — A Race for Ellyria — Ellyrian Villages palisaded 
—Outmarched by the Turks — Ibrahim and his Men — Attempt at 
Reconciliation — Diplomacy — Peace established — Arrive at Ellyria — 
Legged, the Chief of Ellyria — Presents to Ibrahim — Legg^'s Intem- 
' perance — Violent Storm — No Supplies — Formation of Skulls. 

Page 92—114 

CHAPTER V. 

LEAVE ELLYRIA. 

We leave Ellyria — Brutality towards the Women — Order of March — 
Bellaal — Drainage towards the Sobat — Game at Wakkala— Delight- 
ful Scenery — Latooka Thieves — Stalking Antelopes— Chase after 
Waterbuck — Good Service of Rifle — The Turks' Salute — Treacherous 
Welcome — Mahommed Her — Quarrelling among the Traders — The 



CONTENTS. xiii 

Latooka Mutiny — Settle the Ringleader — Stop the Mutiny — I pur- 
sue a Fugitive, and interpose on his behalf — Held in some Esti- 
mation — Desertion of Men — The Natives of Latooka — Their probable 
Origin — Tribes hard to distinguish — Tarrangoll^ — Native Architec- 
ture — Exhumation of the Dead — Coiffure of Natives — Hair Helmets 
of Latooka — Fighting Bracelets — The Latooka Women — The Chief's 
Introduction — " Moy" and his Ladies — Bokke proposes to improve 
Mrs. Baker — Bokke and Daughter — Extraction of the front Teeth — 
The Value of Wives — Cows of more value than Women — Destruc- 
tion of Mahommed Her's People — Death of my Deserters — My 
Prophecv realized — Apprehensive of an Attack — The Turks insult 
the Women— 111 Conduct of the Turks— Well done, Bokke!— 
Results of the Turks' Misconduct — Interview with Commoro — -Awk- 
ward Position — The Latooka War Signal — Preparations for Defence 
— We await the Attack — Parley — Too "wide awake" — Camp at 
Tarrangolle — Scarcity in view of Plenty — Wild Duck Shooting — 
The Crested Crane, &c. — Adda's Proposal — Obtuseness of Natives — 
Degraded State of Natives Page 115—153 

CHAPTER VI. 

THE FUNERAL DANCE. 

A Funeral Dance — Bari Interpreters — Commoro, the Lion — Conver- 
sation with Commoro — " Where will the Spirit live ?" — " Good and 
bad all die" — Failure of the religious Argument — Further Conversa- 
tion — The Camel poisoned — Habits of the Camel — Camel's peculiar 
Constitution — The Hygeen, or riding Dromedary — Loss of Camel a 
Misfortune — Dirty Donkeys Page 154 — 161 

CHAPTER VII. 



Herds of the Latookas and Game — Storm — Effects of Rain upon 
Natives — -Native Blacksmiths — Their Tools — Elephants — Elephant 
Hunt — Tetel, my old Hunter — Charged by a herd of Elephants — 
Cowardly Followers — Track the wounded Elephant — Nearly caught — 
Tetel distressed — Return to Camp — African and Indian Elephants — 
Height of Elephants — Food of Elephants— African and Ceylon 
Elephants — Difference in Formation of Brain — Rifles and Bullets 
for heavy Game — Character of Country and its Sports — The "Baby" 
—Method of killing Elephants — Elephant Pitfalls — Circling them 
with Fire — Native Hunting — The Bagara Hunters — Danger of Ele- 
phant Hunting Page 161 — 180 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Ibrahim's return. 

The African Black — Comparison between Whites and Blacks — Varie- 
ties in Creation — The Negro — Character of the Negro — Originated 



J 3 



iv CONTENTS. 

African Slave System — Indisposition to Work — Negro Slave 
Hunters — Ibrahim a wa ; or, Sinbad the Sailor— Makkarika Can- 
nibals — My daily Employments — Quarrels with the Latookas— 
Parley with Latooka Chiefs — The Latookas seize a Gun — Helpless- 
ness in an Advance — Hope to the South — Journey to Obbo — Un- 
comfortable Night — Enter the Mountains — Beautiful Scenery — 
Arrive at Obbo — Natives of Obbo — Butter Nuts and Fruits — Pot- 
tery and Utensils — Natural Features of Obbo — Katchiba, Chief of 
Obbo — Entertained with a Dance — Women of Obbo — Languages of 
Tribes — Katchiba's Diplomacy — Katchiba "always at Home" — 
Family Government — The great Magician — Eeconnaissance to the 
South— Mrs. Baker's Dwelling— An Upset— Loss of Filfil— My 
Bivouac — Ceremony of Welcome at Farajoke — Elevated Country at 
Farajoke — Stopped by the Asua — Return to Obbo — Gallantry of 
Katchiba — Katchiba determines to ride — First Attempts at Horse- 
manship — Eecover the lost Horse — Ceremony at parting with Kat- 
chiba — Return to Latooka — Discovery of supposed Yams — Beware 
of Botanists— Baboons — The Maharif Antelope — The Giraffe — 
Hunting Giraffes — Unsuccessful Hunt — Benighted — Regain the 
Party — Bread-baking on the March — Sickness ; Small-pox — Wani, 
the Interpreter — First Clue to the Lake — Brown Men are called 
White Page 180—221 



CHAPTER IX. 



THE TURKS ATTACK KATALA. 



The " Pleasant Robber" killed— Division of the Spoil — Discord among 
the Natives — The Life of Women spared in War — Scarcity of Salt 
among the Latookas — Another Cause of Alarm — The Turks murder 
a Native — Country disturbed — Good Sport — Two Thieves — Ibra- 
himawa's Reminiscences of England — Party recalled to Obbo — 
White Ants — Destructiveness of Birds — Cattle Stealers at Night — 
A Thief shot— My Wife ill with Fever— March to Obbo— Great 
Puff Adder — Poison-fangs of Snakes — Violent Storm — Arrive again 
at Obbo — Hostility caused by the Turks — The M.D. attends us — 
Death of "Mouse" — Marauding Expedition — Saat becomes scien- 
tific— Saat and Gaddum Her — Will England suppress the Slave 
Trade ? — Filthy Customs of the Natives — The Egyptian Scarabaeus 
— Bacheeta, the Unyoro Slave — Intelligence of the Lake — Its pro- 
bable Commercial Advantages — Commerce with the Interior — Obbo 
the Clothing Frontier— Death of my last Camel — Excellent Species 
of Gourd — A Morning Call in Obbo — Katchiba's Musical Accom- 
plishments — Loss of remaining Donkey — Deceived by the Turks — 
Fever — Symptoms — Dismal Prospect, " Coming Events," &c. 

Page 221—248 



CONTENTS. xv 

CHAPTER X. 

LIFE AT OBBO. 

Physician in General — Influence gained over the People — Katchiba is 
applied to for Rain — " Are you a Rainmaker ? " — Katchiba takes 
Counsel's Opinion — Successful Case — Night-watch for Elephants — 
Elephant killed — Dimensions of the Elephant — Wild Boars — Start 
for the South — Mrs. Baker thrown from her Ox — The Asua River 
— Stalking Mehed^het Antelope — A Prairie Fire — Tracking an 
Antelope — Turks' Standard-bearer killed — Arrival at Shooa — The 
Neighbourhood of Shooa — Fruitfulness of Shooa — Cultivation and 
Granaries — Absconding of Obbo Porters — " Wheels within Wheels " 
— Difficulty in starting South — Departure from Shooa — Fatiko 
Levee — Boundless Prairies — Fire the Prairies — Deceit of the Guide 
— Arrive at the Victoria Nile — Arrive at Rionga's Country — Start 
for Karunia — The Karuma Falls — Welcome by Kamrasi's People — 
Passage of the River forbidden — To await Reply of Kamrasi — The 
Natives' Dread of Kamrasi — They hold a Conference— Resolve to 
cross the River alone — The Ferry of Atada — Reception by Keedja 
— I lull the Suspicions of the Natives — Appellations of Speke and 
Grant — Freemasonry of Unyoro — Native Curiosity — The Bark 
Cloth of Unyoro— Comparative Civilization of Unyoros — Native 
Pottery — The Bottle Gourds used as Models — " Great Men never in 
a Hurry to pay Visits " — Pronounced to be Speke's Brother — The 
Escort cross the River — Neatness of the Natives in packing — 
Native Manufactures — March parallel with the Victoria Nile — 
Severe Illness of Mrs. Baker — March to the Capital — Kamrasi 
suspects Treachery — Arrive at last at the Capital — Imprisoned on 
the Marsh — Expectation of an Attack — Kamrasi makes a State 
Visit — Conversation with the King — His Reception of my Presents 
— Another Interview with Kamrasi — Exchange Blood and become 
Friends — Avarice of the King — Permitted to leave our Fever-bed — 
Ibrahim and Party return North — Sulkiness of Bacheeta — Attempt 
to barter for Speke's Rifle — Rapacity of the Chiefs . Page 249 — 294 



CHAPTER XI. 

THE START FOR THE LAKE.. 

Despicable Conduct of the King — Pertinacity of Kamrasi — Kamrasi's 
Infamous Proposal — Resentment of the King's Insolence — The 
King's Apology — Expectation of a Fight — Kamrasi's Satanic Escort 
— The Rout at a Gun-shot — A disagreeable Escort — Passage of the 
Kafoor — Mrs. Baker receives a Sun-stroke — Dismissal of the brutal 
Escort — Misery and Distress — Return to Consciousness, but afflicted 
with Brain-fever Page 295 — 304 



xvi CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XII. 

RECOVERED. 

The Sugar-cane indigenous — Unyoro People clean Feeders — Close to 
the Lake — Discovery of the Albert N'yanza — Gratitude to Pro- 
vidence — Denominate it " The Albert N'yanza " — Fishing Tackle — 
The Lake declared to be the Sea — Feast in honour of the Discovery 
— Survey of the Lake — Geography of the Lake — Countries bordering 
the Lake — The Great Basin of the Nile — Sources of the Nile — 
Affluents of the Albert Lake — Our whole party Fever-stricken — 
Yearning for Home — Arrange Canoes for Lake Voyage — Start from 
Vacovia — Voyage upon the Lake — Shore Encampment — Deserted 
by the Boatmen — No Pilot— Endeavour to civilize the Canoes — 
Adapt a Scotch Plaid for a Sail — Natives volunteer as Boatmen — 
Storm on the Lake — Nearly swamped — Land safely on Shore — 
Falls of the Kaiigiri River — Shoot a Crocodile — Taste of Crocodile 
Flesh — Discomforts of Lake Voyage — Elephants in the Lake — Inhos- 
pitable Natives — Procure Supplies — The Lake changes its character 
— Arrival at Magungo — Embouchure of the Somerset River — Fish 
and Fishing — The Baggera and Lepidosiren Annecteus — Native 
Fishing Arrangements — Exit of the Nile from the Lake — Nile 
navigable from Lake to Madi — The Victoria Nile at Magungo— 
Determination to settle Nile Question — Nobly seconded by Mrs. 
Baker — Leave Magungo — Voyage up the Victoria Nile — Stricken 
again with Fever — Guided by Water-plants — Numerous Crocodiles 
— The Murchison Falls — Hippopotamus charges the Canoe — Narrow 
Escape from Crocodiles — Arrival of Oxen, but not the Guide — Loss 
of Oxen from Fly-bite — Sickness on the March— The Island of 
Patooan — Information about Ibrahim — Difference in the Level — 
Difference in Observations — Altitudes Page 305 — 345 

CHAPTER XIII. 

TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES. 

Confined in the Country — Determine to proceed — Deserted by the 
Natives — Discovery # of a " Tullaboon " Granary — Misery at Shooa 
Mora — Hard Fare — Preparation for Death — Kamrasi's Tactics — 
The Bait takes — We are carried to the King's Camp — Rejoin the 
Turks' Detachment — Their Welcome — Kamrasi seeks my Alliance — 
Deception of Kamrasi — M'Gambi has impersonated the King — The 
real Kamrasi — Prefer seeing Meat to a King — The begging Envoy 
— Carried to the Camp of Kamrasi — Introduction to the real King — 
Description of Kamrasi — The Native Court . . . Page 346 — 360 

CHAPTER XIV. 

AT HOME IN KISOONA. 

System of Fattening — Native Preparations of Food — Native Manu- 
factures — Knavery of Native Butter-dealers. — Vapour Bath for 



CONTENTS. xvii 

Fever — State Visit from the King — Mendicancy again — The King 
in love with a Tooth-conib — Effect of concave Mirror — Attempts at 
Ancient History — Kamrasi's Request — Kamrasi affronted — Sudden 
Invasion of the Country — Alarm and Cowardice of Kamrasi — The 
British Flag protects Unyoro — Diplomatic Arrangement — Con- 
ference with Debono's Party — Settle authoritatively all Objections 
Retreat of the Invaders Page, 360 — 372 

CHAPTER XV. 

KAMRASI BEGS FOR THE BRITISH FLAG. 

The pertinacious Beggar — Summary Justice for High Treason — 
Arrival of Ivory for the Turks— Frightful Barbarities upon Captives 
— The Female Captives — Treacherous Murder of Sali — Disputes 
with Kamrasi — Advice to Kamrasi — The Turks begin to bully — 
Eddrees refused Admittance at Court — Communicate with Ibrahim 
— Drunkenness among the Unyoros — Native Sorcerers — Implicit 
Belief in Sorcerers — Invasion of the M'Was — Consulted by the 
King in the Extremity — Kamrasi will not Fight — An invigorating 
little Difficulty — Mock Valour by Unyoros — Kamrasi's Retreat — 
We are Deserted — Prepare for Retreat— Leave Kisoona- — Arrive at 
Deang — No Water — Deserted again by the Porters — Richarn miss- 
ing — Richarn reported as killed — The M'Was' Drums beat — March 
to Foweera — The Night Retreat — Lose the Road — At a Loss for 
direct Route — Capture a Native —Recover the Route — Exhaustion 
of Mrs. Baker — Arrive at Foweera — Well prepared — Refuse to 
assist Kamrasi — Richarn's Return — Richarn 's Story — The King in 
Distress — Arrival of Ibrahim with Reinforcements — Receive Letters 
and Papers from Home — Kamrasi " is himself again " — Invasion of 
the Langgo Country — The Whisky Distillery — Kamrasi tries the 
Whisky — Butcheries by Kamrasi — Kamrasi orders the Murder of 
Kalloe — Attempt to save Kalloe — Pursuit and Capture of Kalloe — 
I intercede on his behalf — Death of a Headman — Shot by order of 
Kamrasi — The Warning — The Body-guard . . . Page 372 — 408 

CHAPTER XVI. 

kamrasi's adieu. 

Begging to the last — We quit Kamrasi's Territory— March to Shooa — 
— Arrive at Shooa — The Lira Tribe — Resemblance of Natives' and 
Lawyers' Wigs — Residt of the Turks' Razzias — Loss of Cattle by the 
Turks — The Fight with Werdella — Courage of Werdella — Werdella 
defeats the Turks — Murder of a Native— Runaway slaves recaptured 
— Brutality of the Turks — Little Abbai — The Children of the Camp 
— Pleasant Time with the Children — Shoot a Crocodile — The 
Black Rhinoceros — The Lira Head-dress — Native Use of Donkeys. 
, Page 409—423 

b 



sviii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

THE NATIVES IN MOURNING. 

Results of the Ivory Campaign — Preparations for starting Homeward 
— Part regretfully with the Children — The Traveller's Tree — View 
of the Nile — Koshi and Madi — Gebel Kookoo — On Speke and 
Grant's Eoute — Changes in the Nile — The Asua River — Suspicious 
Movements of the Natives — Attacked in the Pass — Night in a 
hostile Country — Camp surrounded by Natives — Poisoned Arrows 
shot into Camp — Sight Belignan — Approach Gondokoro — Arrive 
at Gondokoro-— Neither Letters nor Supplies— Disappointment. 

Page 423—435 

CHAPTER XVIII, 

The latest news Erom khartoum. 

Intelligence from Khartoum— Retreat of the Slaves — Influence gained 
over Traders' People — Sail from Gondokoro — The Nile cleared of 
its Mystery — The Victoria Source — Ptolemy's Theory — Rainfall — 
Affluents of the White Nile — Action of the Abyssinian Rivers — 
Colonization impossible — Slavery the Curse of Africa — Impotence of 
European Consuls — Impossibility of convicting a Trader — Central 
Africa opened to Navigation — Tribes of Central Africa — Vestiges of 
a Pre- Adamite Creation — Geological Formation — Hypothesis of 
Equatorial Lakes — Sir Roderick Murchison's Theories confirmed 
— Sir Roderick Murchison's Address Page 436 — 452 

CHAPTER XIX. 

the black antelope. 

Antelope-shooting — Arrive at Junction of Bahr el Gazal — Arrive at 
the Nile Dam — Character of the Obstruction — Passage through the 
Dam — The Plague breaks out — Saat smitten by the Plague — Enter- 
tained by Osman Bey — Saat dies — Burial of Saat — Arrival at 
Khartoum — Albert Lake Reservoir of Nile — Destruction by the 
Plague — A Darkness that might be felt — Horrible Slave Cargo — 
Meet with Mahommed Her — Mahommed Her punished — Nearly 
wrecked — Stranded among Cataracts — Clear the Danger — Start 
from Berber to Souakim — A Row in the Desert — Combat with the 
Arabs — " Bravo, Z6neb ! " — Disarm the Arabs — Cross the Moun- 
tains — First View of the Sea — Souakim — Arrival at Suez — Farewell 
to Africa — Exertions appreciated Page 453 — 473 

Appendix 475 

Index .........,,.„ 479 



LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS. 



PAGK 

Portrait of Mr. and Mrs. Baker Frontispiece. 

Map of Route To face vii 

General Map of Country, Nile Basin To face xxi 

Arms and Instruments of various Tribes xxviii 

Nuehr Natives coming to the Boats . . . , 40 

Joctian, Chief of the Nuehr Tribe 41 

Chief of Kytch and Daughter 45 

Starving boy of Kytch Tribe begging 47 

The Boys who have begged 49 

A Homestead of the Bari Tribe — The usual Attitudes of the 

Men To face 58 

Legge" the Chief 112 

Commoro running to the Fight 134 

Bokke— Wife of Moy, Chief of Latooka 137 

Drake's Head 150 

Crimson-headed Spur-winged Goose 151 

The Latooka Funeral Dance To face 154 

Latooka Blacksmiths 165 

The last Charge To face 170 

Head-dress of Obbo (1) and Shoggo (2) 194 

Women of Obbo 198 

Katchiba's eldest Son 202 

Katchiba and his Hebe on a Journey 209 

Overhauling the Giraffes To face 216 

The Obbo War Dance To face 237 

The Lake To face 249 

Mehed6het Antelope 258 

Natives of Lira (1) and Madi (2) in the Camp at Shooa To face 261 
My Examination by the Chiefs on entering Unyoro — Resolved, 

that I am Speke's Brother To face 28 1 



xx LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

PAGE 

The Start from the M'rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi's Satanic 

Escort To face 298 

The Storm on the Albert Lake , . To face 321 

The Baggera 330 

Lepidosiren Annecteus 331 

The Murchison Falls, about 120 ft. high from the Victoria Nile 

or Somerset Eiver to the Level of the Albert Lake . To face 338 

The Welcome on our Eeturn to the Camp at Shooa . To face 411 

Head of Black Bhinoceros 421 

The Chief of the Lira Tribe 422 

Skirmish with the Natives 430 



INTRODUCTION. 

THE primary object of geographical exploration is the 
opening to general intercourse such portions of 
the earth as may become serviceable to the human 
race. The explorer is the precursor of the colonist ; 
and the colonist is the human instrument by which 
the great work must be constructed — that greatest and 
most difficult of all undertakings — the civilization of 
the world. 

The progress of civilization depends upon geographical 
position. The surface of the earth presents certain 
facilities and obstacles to general access ; those points 
that are easily attainable must always enjoy a superior 
civilization to those that are remote from association 
with the world. 

We may thus assume that the advance of civilization 
is dependent upon facility of transport. Countries 
naturally excluded from communication may, through 
the ingenuity of man, be rendered accessible; the natural 
productions of those lands may be transported to the sea- 
coast in exchange for foreign commodities ; and commerce, 
thus instituted, becomes the pioneer of civilization. 

England, the great chief of the commercial world, 
possesses a power that enforces a grave responsibility. 
She has the force to civilize. She is the natural colonizer 



i 



xsii INTRODUCTION. 

of the world. In the short space of three centuries, 
America, sprung from her loins, has become a giant 
offspring, a new era in the history of the human race, a 
new birth whose future must be overwhelming. Of later 
date, and still more rapid in development, Australia rises, 
a triumphant proof of England's power to rescue wild 
lands from barrenness ; to wrest from utter savagedom 
those mighty tracts of the earth's surface wasted from 
the creation of the world, — a darkness to be enlightened 
by English colonization. Before the advancing steps 
of civilization the savage inhabitants of dreary wastes 
retreated : regions hitherto lain hidden, and counting as 
nothing in the world's great total, have risen to take the 
lead in the world's great future. 

Thus England's seed cast upon the earth's surface 
germinates upon soils destined to reproduce her race. The 
energy and industry of the mother country become the 
natural instincts of her descendants in localities adapted 
for their development; and wherever Nature has endowed 
a land with agricultural capabilities, and favourable geo- 
graphical position, slowly but surely that land will become 
a centre of civilization. 

True Christianity cannot exist apart from civilization ; 
thus, the spread of Christianity must depend upon the 
extension of civilization ; and that extension depends upon 
commerce. 

The philanthropist and the missionary will expeud their 
noble energies in vain in struggling against the obtuseness 
of savage hordes, until the first steps towards their gradual 
enlightenment shall have been made by commerce. The 
savage must learn to want; he must learn to be ambitious ; 
and to covet more than the mere animal necessities of food 
and drink. This can alone be taught by a communication 



INTRODUCTION. xxiii 

with civilized beings : the sight of men well clothed wall 
induce the naked savage to covet clothing, and will create 
a want; the supply of this demand will be the first step 
towards commerce. To obtain the supply, the savage must 
produce some article in return as a medium of barter, 
some natural production of his country adapted to the 
trader's wants. His wants will increase as his ideas 
expand by communication with Europeans : thus, his 
productions must increase in due proportion, and he must 
become industrious ; industry being the first grand stride 
towards civilization. 

The natural energy of all countries is influenced by 
climate; and civilization being dependent upon industry, 
or energy, must accordingly vary in its degrees according 
to geographical position. The natives of tropical countries 
do not progress : enervated by intense heat, they incline 
rather to repose and amusement than to labour. Free from 
the rigour of winters, and the excitement of changes in the 
seasons, the native character assumes the monotony of 
their country's temperature. They have no natural diffi- 
culties to contend with, — no struggle with adverse storms 
and icy winds and frost-bound soil ; but an everlasting 
summer, and fertile ground producing with little tillage, 
excite no enterprise ; and the human mind, unexercised 
by difficulties, sinks into languor and decay. There are 
a lack of industry, a want of intensity of character, a 
love of ease and luxury, which leads to a devotion to 
sensuality, — to a plurality of wives, which lowers the 
character and position of woman. Woman, reduced to 
that false position, ceases to exercise her proper influence 
upon man ; she becomes the mere slave of passion, and, 
instead of holding her sphere as the emblem of civili- 
zation, she becomes its barrier. The absence of real love 



xxiv INTRODUCTION. 

engendered by a plurality of wives, is an absolute bar to 
progress ; and so long as polygamy exists, an extension of 
civilization is impossible. In all tropical countries poly- 
gamy is the prevailing evil : this is the greatest obstacle to 
Christianity. The Mahommedan religion, planned care- 
fully for Eastern habits, allowed a plurality of wives, and 
prospered. The savage can be taught the existence of a 
Deity, and become a Mussulman ; but to him the hateful 
law of fidelity to one wife is a bar to Christianity. Thus, 
in tropical climates there will always be a slower advance 
of civilization than in more temperate zones. 

The highest civilization was originally confined to the 
small portion of the globe comprised between Persia, 
Egypt, Greece, and Italy. In those countries was con- 
centrated the world's earliest history; and although 
changed in special importance, they preserve their geo- 
graphical significance to the present day. 

The power and intelligence of man will have their 
highest development within certain latitudes, and the 
natural passions and characters of races will be governed 
by locality and the temperature of climate. 

There, are certain attractions in localities that induce 
first settlements of man ; even as peculiar conditions of 
country attract both birds and animals. The first want of 
man and beast is food : thus fertile soil and abundant 
pasture, combined with good climate and water commu- 
nication, always ensure the settlement of man; while 
natural seed-bearing grasses, forests, and prairies attract 
both birds and beasts. The earth offers special advan- 
tages in various positions to both man and beast; and 
such localities are, with few exceptions, naturally in- 
habited. From the earliest creation there have been spots 
so peculiarly favoured by nature, by geographical position, 



INTRODUCTION. xxv 

climate, and fertility, that man has striven for their occu- 
pation, and they have become scenes of contention for 
possession. Such countries have had a powerful influence 
in the world's history, and such will be the great pulses 
of civilization, — the sources from which in a future, how- 
ever distant, will flow the civilization of the world. Egypt 
is the land whose peculiar capabilities have thus attracted 
the desires of conquest, and with whom the world's earliest 
history is intimately connected. 

Egypt has been an extraordinary instance of the actual 
formation of a country by alluvial deposit; it has been 
created by a single river. The great Sahara, that frightful 
desert of interminable scorching sand, stretching from the 
Red Sea to the Atlantic, is cleft by one solitary thread 
of water. Ages before man could have existed in that 
inhospitable land, that thread of water was at its silent 
work : through countless years it flooded and fell, deposit- 
ing a rich legacy of soil upon the barren sand until the 
delta was created; and man, at so remote a period that 
we have no clue to an approximate date, occupied the 
fertile soil thus born of the river Nile, and that corner of 
savage Africa, rescued from its barrenness, became Egypt, 
and took the first rank in the earth's history. 

Eor that extraordinary land the world has ever con- 
tended, and will yet contend. 

Erom the Persian conquest to the present day, although 
the scene of continual strife, Egypt has been an example 
of almost uninterrupted productiveness. Its geographical 
position afforded peculiar advantages for commercial enter- 
prise. Bounded on the east by the Eed Sea, on the north 
by the Mediterranean, while the fertilizing Mle afforded 
inland communication, Egypt became the most prosperous 
and civilized country of the earth. Egypt was not only 



xxvi INTRODUCTION. 

created by the Nile, but the very existence of its in- 
habitants depended upon the annual inundation of that 
river : thus all that related to the Nile was of vital im- 
portance to the people ; it was the hand that fed them. 

Egypt depending so entirely upon the river, it was 
natural that the origin of those mysterious waters should 
have absorbed the attention of thinking men. It was 
unlike all other rivers. In July and August, when 
European streams were at their lowest in the summer 
heat, the Nile was at the flood ! In Egypt there was no 
rainfall — not even a drop of dew in those parched deserts 
through which, for 860 miles of latitude, the glorious river 
flowed without a tributary. Licked up by the burning 
sun, and gulped by the exhausting sand of Nubian deserts, 
supporting all losses by evaporation and absorption, the 
noble flood shed its annual blessings upon Egypt. An 
anomaly among rivers ; flooding in the driest season ; ever- 
lasting in sandy deserts ; where was its hidden origin ? 
where were the sources of the Nile ? 

This was from the earliest period the great geographical 
question to be solved. 

In the advanced stage of civilization of the present 
era, we look with regret at the possession by the Moslem 
of the fairest portions of the world, — of countries so 
favoured by climate and by geographical position, that, in 
the early days of the earth's history, they were the spots 
most coveted; and that such favoured places should, 
through the Moslem rule, be barred from the advance- 
ment that has attended lands less adapted by nature for 
development. There are no countries of the earth so 
valuable, or that would occupy so important a position in 
the family of nations, as Turkey in Europe, Asia Minor, 
and Egypt, under a civilized and Christian government. 



INTRODUCTION. xxvii 

As the great highway to India, Egypt is the most 
interesting country to the English. The extraordinary 
fertility being due entirely to the Nile, I trust that I may 
have added my mite to the treasury of scientific know- 
ledge by completing the discovery of the sources of that 
wonderful river, and thereby to have opened a way to 
the heart of Africa, which, though dark in our limited 
perspective, may, at some future period, be the path to 
civilization. 

I offer to the world my narrative of many years of 
hardships and difficulties, happily not vainly spent in this 
great enterprise : should some un-ambitious spirits reflect, 
that the results are hardly worth the sacrifice of the best 
years of life thus devoted to exile and suffering, let them 
remember that "we are placed on earth for a certain 
period, to fulfil, according to our several conditions and 
degrees of mind, those duties by which the earth's history 
is carried on." * 

* E. L. Bulwev's " Life, Literature, and Manners.'' 



THE 

ALBERT N'TANZA. 

CHAPTEE I. 
THE EXPEDITION. 

IN March, 1861, I commenced an expedition to discover 
the sources of the Nile, with the hope of meeting 
the East African expedition of Captains Speke and Grant, 
that had been sent by the English Government from the 
South via Zanzibar, for that object. I had not the pre- 
sumption to publish my intention, as the sources of the 
Nile had hitherto defied all explorers, but I had in- 
wardly determined to accomplish this difficult task or to 
die in the attempt. From my youth I had been inured 
to hardships and endurance in wild sports in tropical 
climates, and when I gazed upon the map of Africa I 
had a wild hope, mingled with humility, that, even as 
the insignificant worm bores through the hardest oak, I 
might by perseverance reach the heart of Africa. 

I could not conceive that anything in this world had 
power to resist a determined will, so long as health 
and life remained. The failure of every former attempt 
to reach the Nile source did not astonish me, as the ex- 
peditions had consisted of parties, which, when diffi- 
culties occur, generally end in difference of opinion and 
retreat : I therefore determined to proceed alone, trusting 
in the guidance of a Divine Providence and the good 
fortune that sometimes attends a tenacity of purpose. I 
weighed carefully the chances of the undertaking. Before 



2 START FROM CAIRO. [Chap. I. 

me — untrodden Africa ; against me — the obstacles that 
had defeated the world since its creation ; on my side 
— a somewhat tough constitution, perfect independence, 
a long experience in savage life, and both time and 
means which I intended to devote to the object without 
limit. England had never sent an expedition to the Mle 
sources previous to that under the command of Speke and 
Grant. Bruce, ninety years ago, had succeeded in tracing 
the source of the Blue or Lesser Mle : thus the honour 
of that discovery belonged to Great Britain ; Speke was 
on his road from the South ; and I felt confident that 
my gallant friend would leave his bones upon the path 
rather than submit to failure. I tni.sted that England 
would not be beaten ; and although I hardly dared to 
hope that I could succeed where others greater than I 
had failed, I determined to sacrifice all in the attempt. 
Had I been alone it would have been no hard lot to die 
upon the untrodden path before me, but there was one 
who, although my greatest comfort, was also my greatest 
care ; one whose life yet dawned at so early an age that 
womanhood was still a future. I shuddered at the pro- 
spect for her, should she be left alone in savage lands at 
my death ; and gladly would I have left her in the luxuries 
of home instead of exposing her to the miseries of Africa. 
It was in vain that I implored her to remain, and that 
I painted the difficulties and perils still blacker than 1 
supposed they really would be : she was resolved, with 
woman's constancy and devotion, to share all dangers and 
to follow me through each rough footstep of the wild 
life before me. "And Euth said, Entreat me not to leave 
thee, or to return from following after thee : for whither 
thou goest I will go, and where thou lodgest I will lodge ; 
thy people shall be my people, and thy God my God : 
where thou diest will I die, and there will I be buried : 
the Lord do so to me, and more also, if aught but death 
part thee and me." 

Thus accompanied by my wife, on the 15th April, 
1861, I sailed up the Nile from Cairo. The wind blew 
fair and .strong from the north, and we flew towards the 



Chap. I.] ARRIVE AT BERBER. 3 

south against the stream, watching those mysterious 
waters with a firm resolve to track them to their distant 
fountain. 

On arrival at Korosko, in lat. 22° 44', in twenty-six 
days from Cairo, we started across the Nubian desert, 
thus cutting off the western bend of the Nile, and in 
seven days' forced camel march we again reached the 
river Abou Hamed. The journey through that desert is 
most fatiguing, as the march averages fifteen hours a 
day through a wilderness of scorching sand and glowing 
basalt rocks. The simoom was in full force at that 
season (May), and the thermometer, placed in the shade 
by the water skins, stood at 114° Fahr. 

No drinkable water was procurable on the route ; thus 
our supply was nearly expended upon reaching the 
welcome Nile. After eight days' march on the margin 
of the river from Aboil Hamed through desert, but in 
view of the palm-trees that bordered the river, we 
arrived at Berber, a considerable town in lat. 17° 58' 
on the banks of the Nile. 

Berber is eight days' camel march from Khartoum (at 
the junction of the White and Blue Niles, in lat. 15° 30'), 
and is the regular caravan route between that town and 
Cairo. 

From the slight experience I had gained in the journey 
to Berber, I felt convinced that success in my Nile ex- 
pedition would be impossible without a knowledge of 
Arabic. My dragoman had me completely in his power, 
and I resolved to become independent of all interpreters 
as soon as possible. I therefore arranged a plan of ex- 
ploration for the first year, to embrace the affluents to 
the Nile from the Abyssinian range of mountains, in- 
tending to follow up the Atbara river from its junction 
with the Nile in lat. 17° 37' (twenty miles south of 
Berber), and to examine all the Nile tributaries from 
the south-east as far as the Blue Nile, which river I 
hoped ultimately to descend to Khartoum. I imagined 
that twelve months would be sufficient to complete such 
an exploration, by which time I should have gained a 

b 2 



4 THE RIVER ATBARA. [Chap. I. 

sufficient knowledge of Arabic to enable me to start from 
Khartoum for my White Nile expedition. Accordingly 
I left Berber on the 11th June, 1861, and arrived at 
the Atbara junction with the Nile on the 13th. 

There is no portion of the Nile so great in its volume 
as that part situated at the Atbara junction. The river 
Atbara is about 450 yards in average width, and from 
twenty-five to thirty feet deep during the rainy season. 
It brings down the entire drainage of Eastern Abyssinia, 
receiving as affluents into its main stream the great rivers 
Taccazy (or Settite), in addition to the Salaam and 
Angrab. The junction of the Atbara in lat. 17° 37' N. 
is thus, in a direct line from Alexandria, about 840 geo- 
graphical miles of latitude, and, including the westerly 
bend of the Nile, its bed will be about eleven hundred 
miles in length from the mouth of its last tributary, the 
Atbara, until it meets the sea. Thus, eleven hundred 
miles of absorption and evaporation through sandy deserts 
and the delta must be sustained by the river between 
the Atbara junction and the Mediterranean : accordingly 
there is an immense loss of water ; and the grandest 
volume of the Nile must be just below the Atbara 
junction. 

It is not my intention in the present work to enter 
into the details of my first year's exploration on the 
Abyssinian frontier ; that being so extensive and so com- 
pletely isolated from the grand White Nile expedition, 
that an amalgamation of the two would create confusion. 
I shall therefore reserve the exploration of the Abyssinian 
tributaries for a future publication, and confine my present 
description of the Abyssinian rivers to a general outline 
of the Atbara and Blue Nile, showing the origin of their 
floods and their effect upon the inundations in Lower 
Egypt. 

I followed the banks of the Atbara to the junction of 
the Settite or Taccazy river ; I then followed the latter 
grand stream into the Abyssinian mountains in the Base" 
country. Erom thence I crossed over to the rivers Salaam 
and Angrab, at the foot of the magnificent range of moun- 



Chap. I.] CHARACTER OF RIVERS. 5 

tains from which they flow direct into the Athara. 
Having explored those rivers, I passed through an ex- 
tensive and beautiful tract of country forming a portion 
of Abyssinia on the south bank of the river Salaam ; 
and again crossing the Atbara, I arrived at the frontier 
town of Gellabat, known by Bruce as "Bas el Feel." 
Marching due west from that point I arrived at the river 
Rahad, in about lat. 12° 30'; descending its banks I 
crossed over a narrow strip of country to the west, arriving 
at the river Dinder, and following these streams to their 
junction with the Blue Nile, I descended that grand river 
to Khartoum, having been exactly twelve months from 
the day I had left Berber. 

The whole of the above-mentioned rivers — i.e. the 
Atbara, Settite, Salaam, Angrab, Eahad, Dinder, and Blue 
Nile — are the great drains of Abyssinia, all having a 
uniform course from south-east to north-west, and meeting 
the main Nile in two mouths ; by the Blue Nile at Khar- 
toum, 15° 30', and by the Atbara, in lat. 17° 37' '. The 
Blue Nile during the dry season is so reduced that there 
is not sufficient water for the small vessels engaged in 
transporting produce from Sennaar to Khartoum ; at that 
time the water is beautifully clear, and, reflecting the 
cloudless sky, its colour has given it the well-known name 
of Bahr el Azrak, or Blue Biver. No water is more 
delicious than that of the Blue Nile ; in great contrast to 
that of the White river, which is never clear, and has a 
disagreeable taste of vegetation. This difference in the 
quality of the waters is a distinguishing characteristic 
of the two rivers : the one, the Blue Nile, is a rapid 
mountain stream, rising and falling with great rapidity; 
the other is of lake origin, flowing through vast marshes. 
The course of the Blue Nile is through fertile soil ; thus 
there is a trifling loss by absorption, and during the heavy 
rains a vast amount of earthy matter of a red colour is 
contributed by its waters to the general fertilizing deposit 
of the Nile in Lower Egypt. 

The Atbara, although so important a river in the rainy 
season of Abyssinia, is perfectly dry for several months 



6 CAUSES OF NILE INUNDATIONS. [Chap. I. 

during the year, and at the time I first saw it, June 13, 
1861, it was a mere sheet of glaring sand ; in fact a 
portion of the desert through which it flowed. For up- 
wards of one hundred and fifty miles from its junction 
with the Nile, it is perfectly dry from the beginning 
of March to June. At intervals of a few miles there 
are pools or ponds of water left in the deep holes below 
the general average of the river's bed. In these pools, 
some of which, may be a mile in length, are congregated 
all the inhabitants of the river, who as the stream dis- 
appears are forced to close quarters in these narrow 
asylums ; thus, crocodiles, hippopotami, fish, and large 
turtle are crowded in extraordinary numbers, until the 
commencement of the rains in Abyssinia once more sets 
them at liberty by sending down a fresh volume to the 
river. The rainy season commences in Abyssinia in the 
middle of May, but the country being parched by the 
summer heat, the first rains are absorbed by the soil, 
and the torrents do not fill until the middle of June. 
From June to the middle of September the storms are 
terrific ; every ravine becomes a raging torrent ; trees 
are rooted up by the mountain streams swollen above 
their banks, and the Atbara becomes a vast river, bringing 
down with an overwhelming current the total drainage 
of four large rivers — the Settite, Eoyan, Salaam, and 
Angrab — in addition to its own original volume. Its 
waters are dense with soil washed from most fertile lands 
far from its point of junction with the Nile ; masses of 
bamboo and driftwood, together with large trees, and 
frequently the dead bodies of elephants and buffaloes, are 
hurled along its muddy waters in wild confusion, bringing 
a rich harvest to the Arabs on its banks, who are ever on 
the look-out for the river's treasures of fuel and timber. 

The Blue Nile and the Atbara receiving the entire 
drainage of Abyssinia, at the same time pour their floods 
into the main Nile in the middle of June. At that season 
the "White Nile is at a considerable level, although not 
at its highest ; and the sudden rush of water descending 
from Abyssinia into the main channel, already at a fail 



Chap. I.] ARRIVAL AT KHARTOUM. 7 

level from the White Nile, causes the annual inundation 
in Lower Egypt. 

During the year that I passed in the northern portion 
of Abyssinia and its frontiers, the rains continued with 
great violence for three months, the last shower falling 
on the 16th September, from which date there was neither 
dew nor rain until the following May. The great rivers 
expended, and the mountain-torrents dried up ; the Atbara 
disappeared, and once more became a sheet of glaring 
sand. The rivers Settite, Salaam, and Angrab, although 
much reduced, are nevertheless perennial streams, flowing 
into the Atbara from the lofty Abyssinian mountains ; 
but the parched, sandy bed of the latter river absorbs the 
entire supply, nor does one drop of water reach the Nile 
from the Atbara during the dry season. The wonderful 
absorption by the sand of that river is an illustration of 
the impotence of the Blue Nile to contend unaided with 
the Nubian deserts, which, were it not for the steady 
volume of the White Nile, would drink every drop of 
water before the river could pass the twenty-fifth degree 
of latitude. 

The principal affluents. of the Blue Nile are the Eahad 
and Dinder, flowing, like all others, from Abyssinia. The 
Eahad is entirely dry during the dry season, and the 
Dinder is reduced to a succession of deep pools, divided 
by sandbanks, the bed of the river being exposed. These 
pools are the resort of numerous hippopotami and the 
natural inhabitants of the river. 

Having completed the exploration of the various 
affluents to the Nile from Abyssinia, passing through the 
Base" country and the portion of Abyssinia occupied by 
Mek Nimmur, I arrived at Khartoum, the capital of the 
Soudan provinces, on the 11th June, 1862. 

Khartoum is situated in lat. 15° 29', on a point of 
land forming the angle between the White and Blue Niles 
at their junction. A more miserable, filthy, and unhealthy 
spot can hardly be imagined. Far as the eye can reach, 
upon all sides, is a sandy desert. The town, chiefly 
composed of huts of unburnt brick, extends over a flat 



8 DESCRIPTION OF KHARTOUM. [Chap. I. 

hardly above the level of the river at high-water, and 
is occasionally flooded. Although containing about 30,000 
inhabitants, and densely crowded, there are neither drains 
nor cesspools : the streets are redolent with inconceivable 
nuisances ; should animals die, they remain where they 
fall, to create pestilence and disgust. There are, never- 
theless, a few respectable houses, occupied by the traders 
of the country, a small proportion of whom are Italians, 
Trench, and Germans, the European population numbering 
about thirty. Greeks, Syrians, Copts, Armenians, Turks, 
Arabs, and Egyptians, form the motley inhabitants of 
Khartoum. 

There are consuls for France, Austria, and America, and 
with much pleasure I acknowledge many kind attentions, 
and assistance received from the two former, M. Thibaut 
and Herr Hansall. 

Khartoum is the seat of government, the Soudan pro- 
vinces being under the control of a Governor-general, 
with despotic power. In 1861, there were about six 
thousand troops quartered in the town ; a portion of these 
were Egyptians ; other regiments were composed of blacks 
from Kordofan, and from the White and Blue Niles, with 
one regiment of Arnouts, and a battery of artillery. These 
troops are the curse of the country : as in the case of 
most Turkish and Egyptian officials, the receipt of pay 
is most irregular, and accordingly the soldiers are under 
loose discipline. Foraging and plunder is the business 
of the Egyptian soldier, and the miserable natives must 
submit to insult and ill-treatment at the will of the brutes 
who pillage them ad libitum. 

In 1862, Moosa Pasha was the Governor-general of 
the Soudan. This man was a rather exaggerated specimen 
of Turkish authorities in general, combining the worst of 
Oriental failings with the brutality of a wild animal. 

During his administration the Soudan became utterly 
ruined ; governed by military force, the revenue was un- 
equal to the expenditure, and fresh taxes were levied upon 
the inhabitants to an extent that paralysed the entire 
country. The Turk never improves. There is an Arab 



Chap. I.] EGYPTIAN AUTHORITIES. 9 

proverb that "the grass never grows in the footprint of 
a Turk," and nothing can he more aptly expressive of 
the character of the nation than this simple adage. Mis- 
government, monopoly, extortion, and oppression, are the 
certain accompaniments of Turkish administration. At 
a great distance from all civilization, and separated from 
Lower Egypt by the Nubian deserts, Khartoum affords a 
wide field for the development of Egyptian official cha- 
racter. Every official plunders ; the Governor-general 
extorts from all sides ; he fills his private pockets by 
throwing every conceivable obstacle in the way of pro- 
gress, and embarrasses every commercial movement in 
order to extort bribes from individuals. Following the 
general rule of his predecessors, a new governor upon 
arrival exhibits a spasmodic energy. Attended by cavasses 
and soldiers, he rides through every street of Khartoum, 
abusing the underlings for past neglect, ordering the 
streets to be swept, and the town to be thoroughly 
cleansed ; he visits the market-place, examines the quality 
of the bread at the bakers' stalls, and the meat at the 
butchers'. He tests the accuracy of the weights and 
scales ; fines and imprisons the impostors, and institutes 
a complete reform, concluding his sanitary and philan- 
thropic arrangements by the imposition of some local 
taxes. 

The town is comparatively sweet ; the bread is of fair 
weight and size, and the new governor, like a new broom, 
has swept all clean. A few weeks glide away, and the 
nose again recalls the savoury old times when streets 
were never swept, and filth once more reigns paramount. 
The town relapses into its former state, again the false 
weights usurp the place of honest measures, and the 
only permanent and visible sign of the new administra- 
tion is the local tax. 

Erom the highest to the lowest official, dishonesty and 
deceit are the rule — and each robs in proportion to his 
grade in the Government employ — the onus of extortion 
falling upon the natives ; thus, exorbitant taxes are levied 
upon the agriculturists, and the industry of the inhabi- 



10 TAXES. [Chap. I. 

tants is disheartened by oppression. The taxes are 
collected by the soldiery, who naturally extort by violence 
an excess of the actual impost; accordingly the Arabs 
limit their cultivation to their bare necessities, fearing 
that a productive farm would entail an extortionate 
demand. The heaviest and most unjust tax is that upon 
the "sageer," or water-wheel, by which the farmer irrigates 
his otherwise barren soil. 

The erection of the sageer is the first step necessary to 
cultivation. On the borders of the river there is much 
land available for agriculture ; but from an almost total 
want of rain the ground must be constantly irrigated by 
artificial means. IsFo sooner does an enterprising fellow 
erect a water-wheel, than he is taxed, not only for his 
wheel, but he brings upon himself a perfect curse, as the 
soldiers employed for the collection of taxes fasten upon 
his garden, and insist upon a variety of extras in the 
shape of butter, corn, vegetables, sheep, &c. for themselves, 
which almost ruin the proprietor. Any government but 
that of Egypt and Turkey would offer a bonus for the 
erection of irrigating machinery that would give a stimulus 
to cultivation, and multiply the produce of the country ; 
but the only rule without an exception is that of Turkish 
extortion. I have never met with any Turkish official 
who would take the slightest interest in plans for the im- 
provement of the country, unless he discovered a means 
of filling his private purse. Thus in a country where 
Nature has been hard in her measure dealt to the in- 
habitants, they are still more reduced by oppression. The 
Arabs fly from their villages on the approach of the 
brutal tax-gatherers, driving their flocks and herds with 
them to distant countries, and leaving their standing 
crops to the mercy of the soldiery. No one can conceive 
the suffering of the country. 

The general aspect of the Soudan is that of misery ; 
nor is there a single feature of attraction to recompense a 
European for the drawbacks of pestilential climate and 
brutal associations. To a stranger it appears a super- 
lative folly that the Egyptian Government should have 



Chap. I.] THE SOUDAN. 11 

retained a possession, the occupation of which is wholly 
unprofitable ; the receipts being far below the expendi- 
ture, " malgre " the increased taxation. At so great a 
distance from the sea-coast and hemmed in by immense 
deserts, there is a difficulty of transport that must nullify 
all commercial transactions on an extended scale. 

The great and most important article of commerce as 
an export from the Soudan, is gum arabic : this is pro- 
duced by several species of mimosa, the finest quality 
being a product of Kordofan ; the other natural produc- 
tions exported are senna, hides, and ivory. All mer- 
chandise both to and from the Soudan must be transported 
upon camels, no other animals being adapted to the 
deserts. The cataracts of the Nile between Assouan and 
Khartoum rendering the navigation next to impossible, 
the camel is the only medium of transport, and the un- 
certainty of procuring them without great delay is the 
trader's greatest difficulty. The entire country is subject 
to droughts that occasion a total desolation, and the 
want of pasture entails starvation upon both cattle and 
camels, rendering it at certain seasons impossible to 
transport the productions of the country, and thus stagna- 
ting all enterprise. Upon existing conditions the Soudan is 
worthless, having neither natural capabilities nor political 
importance ; but there is, nevertheless, a reason that first 
prompted its occupation by the Egyptians, and that is in 
force to the present day. The Soudan supplies slaves. 

Without the White Nile trade Khartoum would almost 
cease to exist ; and that trade is kidnapping and murder. 
The character of the Khartoumers needs no further com- 
ment. The amount of ivory brought down from the 
White Nile is a mere bagatelle as an export, the annual 
value being about £40,000. 

The people for the most part engaged in the nefarious 
traffic of the White Nile are Syrians, Copts, Turks, Cir- 
cassians, and some few Europeans. So closely connected 
with the difficulties of my expedition is that accursed 
slave-trade, that the so-called ivory trade of the White 
Nile requires an explanation. 



12 SLAVE TRADE OF THE WHITE NILE. [Chap. I. 

Throughout the Soudan money is exceedingly scarce 
and the rate of interest exorbitant, varying, according to 
the securities, from thirty-six to eighty per cent. ; this 
fact proves general poverty and dishonesty, and acts as a 
preventive to all improvement. So high and fatal a rate 
deters all honest enterprise, and the country must lie 
in ruin under such a system. The wild speculator 
borrows upon such terms, to rise suddenly like a 
rocket, or to fall like its exhausted stick. Thus, honest 
enterprise being impossible, dishonesty takes the lead, 
and a successful expedition to the White Nile is sup- 
posed to overcome all charges. There are two classes 
of White Nile traders, the one possessing capital, the 
other being penniless adventurers ; the same system 
of operations is pursued by both, but that of the 
former will be evident from the description of the 
latter. 

A man without means forms an expedition, and borrows 
money for this purpose at 100 per cent, after this fashion. 
He agrees to repay the lender in ivory at one-half its 
market value. Having obtained the required sum, he 
hires several vessels and engages from 100 to 300 men, 
composed of Arabs and runaway villains from distant 
countries, who have found an asylum from justice in 
the obscurity of Khartoum. He purchases guns and 
large quantities of ammunition for his men, together with 
a few hundred pounds of glass beads. The piratical ex- 
pedition being complete, he pays his men five months' 
wages in advance, at the rate of forty-five piastres (nine 
shillings) per month, and he agrees to give them eighty 
piastres per month for any period exceeding the five 
months advanced. His men receive their advance partly 
in cash and partly in cotton stuffs for clothes at an 
exorbitant price. Every man has a strip of paper, upon 
which is written by the clerk of the expedition the 
amount he has received both in goods and money, and 
this paper he must produce at the final settlement. 

The vessels sail about December, and on arrival at 
the desired locality, the party disembark and proceed 



Chap. I.] INHUMAN PROCEEDINGS. 13 

into the interior, until they arrive at the village of some 
negro chief, with whom they establish an intimacy. 
Charmed with his new friends, the power of whose 
weapons he acknowledges, the negro chief does not 
neglect the opportunity of seeking their alliance to attack 
a hostile neighbour. Marching throughout the night, 
guided by their negro hosts, they bivouac within an hour's 
march of the unsuspecting village doomed to an attack 
about half an hour before break of day. The time arrives, 
and, quietly surrounding the village while its occupants 
are still sleeping, they fire the grass huts in all directions, 
and pour volleys of musketry through the flaming thatch. 
Panic-stricken, the unfortunate victims rush from their 
burning dwellings, and the men are shot down like 
pheasants in a battue, while the women and children, 
bewildered in the danger and confusion, are kidnapped 
and secured. The herds of cattle, still within their kraal 
or "zareeba," are easily disposed of, and are driven off 
with great rejoicing, as the prize of victory. The women 
and children are then fastened together, the former secured 
in an instrument called a sheba, made of a forked pole, 
the neck of the prisoner fitting into the fork, secured by 
a cross piece lashed behind; while the wrists, brought 
together in advance of the body, are tied to the pole. 
The children are then fastened by their necks with a rope 
attached to the women, and thus form a living chain, in 
which order they are marched to the head-quarters in 
company with the captured herds. 

This is the commencement of business : should there 
be ivory in any of the huts not destroyed by the fire, it 
is appropriated ; a general plunder takes place. The 
trader's party dig up the floors of the huts to search for 
iron hoes, which are generally thus concealed, as the 
greatest treasure of the negroes ; the granaries are over- 
turned and wantonly destroyed, and the hands are cut 
off the bodies of the slain, the more easily to detach the 
copper or iron bracelets that are usually worn. "With 
this booty the traders return to their negro ally : they 
have thrashed and discomfited his enemy, which delights 



]4 REVELATIONS OF SLAVE TRADE. [Chap. I. 

him ; they present him with thirty or forty head of cattle . 
which intoxicates him with joy, and a present of a 
pretty little captive girl of about fourteen completes his 
happiness. 

But business only commenced. The negro covets cattle, 
and the trader has now captured perhaps 2,000 head. 
They are to be had for ivory, and shortly the tusks 
appear. Ivory is daily brought into camp in exchange 
for cattle, a tusk for a cow, according to size — a pro- 
fitable business, as the cows have cost nothing. The 
trade proves brisk ; but still there remain some little 
customs to be observed — some slight formalities, well 
understood by the "White Nile trade. The slaves and 
two-thirds of the captured cattle belong to the trader, 
but his men claim as their perquisite one-third of the 
stolen animals. These having been divided, the slaves 
are put up to public auction among the men, who pur- 
chase such as they require ; the amount being entered on 
the papers (serki) of the purchasers, to be reckoned 
against their wages. To avoid the exposure, should the 
document fall into the hands of the Government or 
European consuls, the amount is not entered as for the 
purchase of a slave, but is divided for fictitious supplies 
— thus, should a slave be purchased for 1,000 piastres, 
that amount would appear on the document somewhat 
as follows : — 

Soap 50 Piastres. 



Tarboash (cap) 
Araki . . . 
Shoes . . . 
Cotton Cloth 



100 
500 
200 
150 

1,000 



The slaves sold to the men are constantly being changed 
and resold among themselves ; but should the relatives 
of the kidnapped women and children wish to ransom 
them, the trader takes them from his men, cancels the 
amount of purchase, and restores them to their relations 
for a certain number of elephants' tusks, as may be agreed 
upon. Should any slave attempt to escape, she is punished 



Chap. L] DISTANT SLAVE MARKETS. 15 

either by brutal flogging, or shot or hanged, as a warning 
to others. 

An attack or razzia, such as described, generally leads 
to a quarrel with the negro ally, who in his turn is 
murdered and plundered by the trader — his women and 
children naturally becoming slaves. 

A good season for a party of a hundred and fifty men 
should produce about two hundred cantars (20,000 lbs.) of 
ivory, valued at Khartoum at £4,000. The men being 
paid in slaves, the wages should be nil, and there should 
be a surplus of four or five hundred slaves for the trader's 
own profit — worth on an average five to six pounds 
each. 

The boats are accordingly packed with a human cargo, 
and a portion of the trader's men accompany them to 
the Soudan, while the remainder of the party form a camp 
or settlement in the country they have adopted, and in- 
dustriously plunder, massacre, and enslave, until their 
master's return with the boats from Khartoum in the 
following season, by which time they are supposed to 
have a cargo of slaves and ivory ready for shipment. 
The business thus thoroughly established, the slaves are- 
landed at various points within a few days' journey of 
Khartoum, at which places are agents, or purchasers, 
waiting to receive them with dollars prepared for cash 
payments. The purchasers and dealers are, for the most 
part, Arabs. The slaves are then marched across the 
country to different places ; many to Sennaar, where they 
are sold to other dealers, who sell them to the Arabs and 
to the Turks. Others are taken immense distances to 
ports on the Eed Sea, Souakhn, and Masowa, there to 
be shipped for Arabia and Persia. Many are sent to 
Cairo, and in fact they are disseminated throughout the 
slave-dealing East, the White Nile being the great nursery 
for the supply. 

The amiable trader returns from the "White Nile to 
Khartoum; hands over to his creditor sufficient ivory to 
liquidate the original loan of £1,000, and, already a man 
of capital, he commences as an independent trader. 



16 DIFFICULTIES AT THE OUTSET. [Chap. I. 

Such was the White Nile trade when I prepared to 
start from Khartoum ou my expedition to the Nile sources, i 
Every one in Khartoum, with the exception of a few 
Europeans, was in favour of the slave-trade, and looked 
with jealous eyes upon a stranger venturing within the 
precincts of their holy land; a land sacred to slavery 
and to every abomination and villany that man can 
commit. 

The Turkish officials pretended to discountenance 
slavery : at the same time every house in Khartoum was 
full of slaves, and the Egyptian officers had been in the 
habit of receiving a portion of their pay in slaves, pre- 
cisely as the men employed on the White Nile were paid 
by their employers. The Egyptian authorities looked 
upon the exploration of the White Nile by a European 
traveller as an infringement of their slave territory that 
resulted from espionage, and every obstacle was thrown 
in my way. 

Eoreseeing many difficulties, I had been supplied, before 
leaving Egypt, with a firman from H. E. Said Pasha the 
Viceroy, by the request of H. B. M. agent, Sir R 
Colquhoun; but this document was ignored by the 
Governor-general of the Soudan, Moosa Pasha, under 
the miserable prevarication that the firman was for the 
Pasha's dominions and for the Nile ; whereas the White 
Nils was not accepted as the Nile, but was known as the 
White River. I was thus refused boats, and in fact all 
assistance. 

To organize an enterprise so difficult that it had 
hitherto defeated the whole world required a careful 
selection of attendants, and I looked with despair at the 
prospect before me. The only men procurable for escort 
were the miserable cut-throats of Khartoum, accustomed 
to murder and pillage in the White Nile trade, and excited 
not by the love of adventure but by the desire for plunder: 
to start with such men appeared mere insanity. There 
was a still greater difficulty in connexion with the White 
Nile. Eor years the infernal traffic in slaves and its 
attendant horrors had existed like a pestilence in the 



Chap. I.J PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING. 17 

negro countries, and had so exasperated the tribes, that 
people who in former times were friendly had become 
hostile to all comers. An exploration to the Nile sources 
was thus a march through an enemy's country, and 
required a powerful force of well-armed men. For the 
traders there was no great difficulty, as they took the 
initiative in hostilities, and had fixed camps as "points 
d'appui;" but for an explorer there was no alternative 
but a direct forward march without any communications 
with the rear. I had but slight hope of success without 
assistance from the authorities in the shape of, men 
accustomed to discipline ; I accordingly wrote to the 
British consul at Alexandria, and requested him to apply 
for a few soldiers and boats to aid me in so difficult an 
enterprise. After some months' delay, owing to the great 
distance from Khartoum, T received a reply inclosing a 
letter from Ismael Pasha (the present Viceroy), the regent 
during the absence of Said Pasha, refusing the appli- 
cation. 

I confess to the enjoyment of a real difficulty. From 
the first I had observed that the Egyptian authorities 
did not wish to encourage English explorations of the 
slave-producing districts, as such examinations would be 
detrimental to the traffic, and would lead to reports to 
the European governments that would ultimately pro- 
hibit the trade ; it was perfectly clear that the utmost 
would be done to prevent my expedition from starting. 
This opposition gave a piquancy to the undertaking, and 
I resolved that nothing should thwart my plans. Ac- 
cordingly I set to work in earnest. I had taken the 
precaution to obtain an order upon the Treasury at 
Khartoum for what money I required, and as ready cash 
performs wonders in that country of credit and delay, 
I was within a few weeks ready to start. I engaged 
three vessels, including two large noggurs or sailing barges, 
and a good decked vessel with comfortable cabins, known 
by all Nile tourists as a diahbiah. 

The preparations for such a voyage are no trifles. I 
required forty-five armed men as escort, forty men as 

c 



18 JOHANN SCHMIDT. [Chap. I. 

sailors, which, with servants, &c, raised iny party to 
ninety-six. The voyage to Gondokoro, the navigable limit 
of the Nile, was reported to he from forty- five to fifty 
days from Khartoum, hut provisions were necessary for 
four months, as the boatmen would return to Khartoum 
with the vessels, after landing me and my party. In the 
hope of meeting Speke and Grant's party, I loaded the 
boats with an extra quantity of corn, making a total of 
a hundred urdeps (rather exceeding 400 bushels). I had 
arranged the boats to carry twenty-one donkeys, four 
camels, and four horses ; which I hoped would render me 
independent of porters, the want of transport being the 
great difficulty. The saddles, packs, and pads were all 
made under my own superintendence ; nor was the 
slightest trifle neglected in the necessary arrangements for 
success. In all the detail, I was much assisted by a 
most excellent man whom I had engaged to accompany 
me as my head man, a German carpenter, Johann Schmidt. 
I had formerly met him hunting on the banks of the 
Settite river, in the Base" country, where he was purchasing 
living animals from the Arabs, for a contractor to a 
menagerie in Europe ; he was an excellent sportsman, 
and an energetic and courageous fellow ; perfectly sober 
and honest. Alas ! " the spirit was willing, but the flesh 
was weak/' and a hollow cough, and emaciation, attended 
with hurried respiration, suggested disease of the lungs. 
Day after day he faded gradually, and I endeavoured to 
persuade him not to venture upon such a perilous journey 
as that before me : nothing would persuade him that he 
was in danger, and he had an idea that the climate of 
Khartoum was more injurious than the White Nile, and 
that the voyage would improve his health. Full of good 
feeling, and a wish to please, he persisted in working 
and perfecting the various arrangements, when he should 
have been saving his strength for a severer trial. Mean- 
while, my preparations progressed. I had clothed my 
men all in uniform, and had armed them with double- 
barrelled guns and rifles. I had explained to them 
thoroughly the object of my journey, and that implicit 



Chap. I.] COLLISION BEFORE STARTING. 19 

obedience would be enforced, so long as they were in my 
service ; that no plunder would be permitted, and that 
their names were to be registered at the public Divan 
before they started. They promised fidelity and devotion, 
but a greater set of scoundrels in physiognomy I never 
encountered. Each man received five months' wages in 
advance, and I gave them an entertainment, with abun- 
dance to eat and drink, to enable them to start in good 
humour. 

"We were just ready to start ; the supplies were all on 
board, the donkeys and horses were shipped, when an 
officer arrived from the Divan, to demand from me the 
poll-tax that Moosa Pasha, the Governor-general, had 
recently levied upon the inhabitants ; and to inform me, 
that in the event of my refusing to pay the said tax 
for each of my men, amounting to one month's wages 
per head, he should detain my boats. I ordered my 
captain to hoist the British flag upon each of the three 
boats, and sent my compliments to the Government 
official, telling him that I was neither a Turkish subject 
nor a trader, but an English explorer ; that I was not 
responsible for the tax, and that if any Turkish official 
should board my boat, under the British flag, I should 
take the liberty of throwing him overboard. This an- 
nouncement appeared so practical, that the official 
hurriedly departed, while I marched my men on board, 
and ordered the boatmen to get ready to start. Just at 
that moment, a Government vessel, by the merest chance, 
came swiftly down the river under sail, and in the 
clumsiest manner crashed right into us. The oars being 
lashed in their places on my boat, ready to start, were 
broken to pieces by the other vessel, which, fouling 
another of my boats just below, became fixed. The reis, 
or captain of the Government boat that had caused the 
mischief, far from apologising, commenced the foulest 
abuse ; and refused to give oars in exchange for those 
he had destroyed. To start was impossible without oars, 
and an angry altercation being carried on between my 
men and the Government boat, it was necessary to come 

c 2 



20 AMIABLE BOY! [Chap. I. 

to closer quarters. The reis of the Government boat was 
a gigantic black, a Tokrouri (native of Darfur), who, con- 
fident in his strength, challenged any one to come on 
board, nor did any of my fellows respond to the in- 
vitation. The insolence of Turkish Government officials 
is beyond description — my oars were smashed, and this 
insult was the reparation ; so, stepping quickly on board, 
and brushing a few fellows on one side, I was obliged to 
come to a physical explanation with the captain, which 
terminated in a delivery of the oars. The bank of the 
river was thronged with people, many were mere idlers 
attracted by the bustle of the start, and others, the friends 
and relatives of my people, who had come to say a last 
good-bye, with many women, to raise the Arab cry of 
parting. Among others, was a tall, debauched-looking 
fellow, excessively drunk and noisy, who, quarrelling with 
a woman who attempted to restrain him, insisted upon 
addressing a little boy named Osman, declaring that he 
should not accompany me unless he gave him a dollar 
to get some drink. Osman was a sharp Arab boy of 
twelve years old, whom I had engaged as one of the tent 
servants, and the drunken Arab was his father, who 
wished to extort some cash from his son before he parted ; 
but the boy Osman showed his filial affection in a most 
touching manner, by running into the cabin, and fetching 
a powerful hippopotamus whip, with which he requested 
me to have his father thrashed, or "he would never be 
gone." Without indulging this amiable boy's desire, we 
shoved off; the three vessels rowed into the middle of 
the river, and hoisted sail; a fair wind, and strong current, 
moved us rapidly down the stream ; the English flags 
fluttered gaily on the masts, and amidst the shouting of 
farewells, and the rattling of musketry, we started for 
the sources of the Nile. On passing the steamer belonging 
to the Dutch ladies, Madame van Capellan, and her 
charming daughter, Mademoiselle Tinne, we saluted them 
with a volley, and kept up a mutual waving of hand- 
kerchiefs until out of view; little did we think that 
we should never meet those kind faces again, and that 



Chap. I.] THE DEPARTURE. 21 

so dreadful a fate would envelope almost the entire 
part}' - .* 

It was the 18th December, 1862, Thursday, one of the 
most lucky days for a start, according to Arab super- 
stition In a few minutes we reached the acute angle 
round which we had to turn sharply into the White Nile 
at its junction with the Blue. It was blowing hard, and 
in tacking round the point one of the noggurs carried 
away her yard, which fell upon deck and snapped in 
half, fortunately without injuring either men or donkeys. 
The yard being about a hundred feet in length, was a 
complicated affair to splice ; thus a delay took place in 
the act of starting, which was looked upon as a bad omen 
by my superstitious followers. The voyage up the White 
Nile I now extract verbatim from my journal. 

Friday, 19 th Dec. — At daybreak took down the mast 
and unshipped all the rigging ; hard at work splicing the 
yard. The men of course wished to visit their friends 
at Khartoum. Gave strict orders that no man should 
leave the boats. One of the horsekeepers absconded 
before daybreak ; sent after him. 

The junction of the two Niles is a vast fiat as far as 
the eye can reach, the White Nile being about two miles 
broad some distance above the point. Saati, my vakeel 
(headman), is on board one noggur as chief ; Johann on 
board the other, while I being on the diahbiah I trust all 
the animals will be well cared for. I am very fearful of 
Johann' s state of health : the poor fellow is mere skin 
and bone, and I am afraid his lungs are affected; he has 
fever again to-day; I have sent him quinine and wine, &c. 
20th Dec. — The whole of yesterday employed in 
splicing yard, repairing mast, and re-rigging. At 8.30 
a.m. we got away with a spanking breeze. The diahbiah 
horridly leaky. The "tree," or rendezvous for all boats 
when leaving for the White Nile voyage, consists of three 

* The entire party died of fever on the White Nile, excepting 
Mademoiselle Tinne. The victims to the fatal climate of Central Africa 
were Madame la Baronne van Capellan, her sister, two Dutch maid- 
servants, Dr. Steudner, and Signor Contarini. 



22 BANKS OF THE WHITE NILE. [Chap. I. 

large mimosas about four miles from the point of junction. 
The Nile at this spot about two miles wide — dead fiat 
hanks — mimosas on west hank. My two cabin hoys are 
very useful, and Osman's ringing laugh and constant im- 
pertinence to the crew and soldiers keep the boat alive ; — 
he is a capital boy, a perfect gamin, and being a tailor 
by trade he is very useful : this accounts for his father 
wishing to detain him. The horses and donkeys very 
snug on hoard. At 1 P.M. passed Gebel Ouli, a small 
hill on south bank — course S.W. \ S. At 8.30 p.m. reached 
Geten^, a village of mixed Arabs on the east bank — 
anchored. 

2\st Dec. — All day busy clearing decks, caulking ship, 
and making room for the camels on the noggurs, as this 
is the village to which I had previously sent two men 
to select camels and to have them in readiness for my 
arrival. The men have been selecting sweethearts instead ; 
thus I must wait here to-morrow, that being the " Soog " 
or market day, when I shall purchase my camels and 
milch goats. The banks of the river very uninteresting 
— fiat, desert, and mimosa bush. The soil is not so rich 
as on the banks of the Blue Nile — the dhurra (grain) is 
small. The Nile is quite two miles wide up to this 
point, and the high-water mark is not more than five feet 
above the present level. The banks shelve gradually like 
the sands at low tide in England, and quite unlike the 
perpendicular banks of the Blue Nile. Busy at gun- 
smith's work. The nights and mornings are now cold, 
from 60° to 62° Fahr. Johann makes me very anxious : 
I much fear he cannot last long, unless some sudden 
change for the better takes place. 

22d Dec. — Selected two fine camels and shipped them 
in slings with some difficulty. Bought four oxen at 
Dine herlas each (15s.) ; the men delighted at the work 
of slaughtering, and jerking the meat for the voyage. 
Bought four milch goats at 9 ps. each, and laid in a 
large stock of dhurra straw for the animals. Got all my 
men on board and sailed at 4.30 p.m., course due west ; 
variation allowed for. I have already reduced my men 



Chap. I.] CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. 23 

from wolves to lambs, and I should like to see the out- 
rageous acts of mutiny which are the scapegoats of the 
traders for laying their atrocities upon the men's shoulders. 
I cannot agree with some writers in believing that 
personal strength is unnecessary to a traveller. In these 
savage countries it adds materially to the success of an 
expedition, provided that it be combined with kindness 
of manner, justice, and unflinching determination. Nothing 
impresses savages so forcibly as the power to punish and 
reward. I am not sure that this theory is applicable to 
savages exclusively. Arrived at Wat Shely at 9 P.M. 

22>d Dec. — Poor Johann very ill. Bought two camels, 
and shipped them all right: the market at this miserable 
village is as poor as that at Get6ne\ The river is about 
a mile and a half wide, fringed with mimosas ; country 
dead flat ; soil very sandy ; much cultivation near the 
village, but the dhurra of poor quality. Saw many hip- 
popotami in the river. I much, regret that I allowed 
Johann to accompany me from Khartoum ; I feel con- 
vinced he can never rally from his present condition. 

2£tk Dec. — Sailed yesterday at 4.5 p.m., course south. 
This morning we are off the Bagara country on the west 
bank. Dead flats of mimosas, many of the trees growing 
in the water; the river generally shallow, and many snags 
or dead stumps of trees. I have been fortunate with 
my men, only one being drunk on leaving Wat Shely ; 
him we carried forcibly on board. Passed the island of 
Hassaniah at 2.20 p.m. ; the usual flats covered with 
mimosas. The high-water mark upon the stems of these 
trees is three feet above the present level of the river; 
thus an immense extent of country must be flooded 
during the wet season, as there are no banks to the 
river. The water will retire in about two months, wheu 
the neighbourhood of the river will be thronged with 
natives and their flocks. All the natives of these parts 
are Arabs ; the Bagara tribe on the west bank. At Wat 
Shely some of the latter came on board to offer their 
services as slave-hunters, this open offer confirming the 
general custom of all vessels trading upon the White Nile 



24 MISERY OF SCENE. [Chap. I. 

25th Dec. — The Tokroori boy, Saat, is very amiable in 
calling all the servants daily to eat together the residue 
from our table ; but he being so far civilized, is armed 
with a huge spoon, and having a mouth like a crocodile, 
he obtains a fearful advantage over the rest of the party, 
who eat the soup by dipping kisras (pancakes) into it 
with their fingers. Meanwhile Saat sits among his in- 
vited guests, and works away with his spoon like a sageer 
(water-wheel), and gets an unwarrantable start, the soup 
disappearing like water in the desert. A dead calm the 
greater portion of the day ; the river fringed with mimosa 
forest. These trees are the Soont {Acacia Arahicd), which 
produce an excellent tannin : the fruit, " garra," is used 
for that purpose, and produces a rich brown dye : all my 
clothes and the uniforms of my men I dyed at Khartoum 
with this "garra." The trees are about eighteen inches 
in diameter and thirty-five feet high ; being in full foliage, 
their appearance from a distance is good, but on a closer 
approach the forest proves to be a desolate swamp, com- 
pletely overflowed ; a mass of fallen dead trees protruding 
from the stagnant waters, a solitary crane perched here 
and there upon the rotten boughs ; floating water-plants 
massed together, and forming green swimming islands, 
hitched generally among the sunken trunks and branches ; 
sometimes slowly descending with the sluggish stream, 
bearing, spectre-like, storks thus voyaging on nature's 
rafts from lands unknown. It is a fever-stricken wilder- 
ness — the current not exceeding a quarter of a mile per 
hour; — the water coloured like an English horse-pond ; a 
heaven for mosquitoes and a damp hell for man. For- 
tunately, this being the cold season, the winged plagues 
are absent. The country beyond the inundated mimosa 
woods is of the usual sandy character, with thorny Kittur 
bush. Saw a few antelopes. Stopped at a horrible swamp 
to collect firewood. Anchored at night in a dead calm, 
well out in the river to escape malaria from the swamped 
forest. This is a precaution that the men would neglect, 
and my expedition inight suffer in consequence. Christ- 
mas Day ! 



Chap. I.] WATER-PLANTS. 25 

26th Dec. — Good breeze at about 3 A.M. ; made sail. 
I have never seen a fog in this part of Africa ; although 
the neighbourhood of the river is swampy, the air is 
clear both in the morning and evening. Floating islands 
of water-plants are now very numerous. There is a plant 
something like a small cabbage (Pistia Stratiotes, L.), 
which floats alone until it meets a comrade ; these unite, 
and recruiting as they float onward, they eventually form 
masses of many thousands, entangling with other species 
of water-plants and floating wood, until they at length 
form floating islands. Saw many hippopotami ; the small 
hill in the Dinka country seen from the mast-head at 
9.15 a.m.; breeze light, but steady; the banks of the 
river, high grass and mimosas, but not forest as formerly. 
Water-lilies in full bloom, white, but larger than the 
European variety. In the evening the crew and soldiers 
singing and drumming. 

27 th Dec. — Blowing hard all night. Passed the Dinka 
hill at 3.30 A.M. Obliged to take in sail, as it buried 
the head of the vessel and we shipped much water. 
Staggering along under bare poles at about five miles 
an hour. The true banks of the river are about five 
hundred yards distant from the actual stream, this space 
being a mass of floating water-plants, decayed vegetable 
matter, and a high reedy grass much resembling sugar- 
canes ; the latter excellent food for my animals. Many 
very interesting water-plants and large quantities of Am- 
batch wood {Anemone mirabilis) — this wood, of less 
specific gravity than cork, is generally used for rafts ; at 
this season it is in full bloom, its bright yellow blossoms 
enlivening the dismal swamps. Secured very fine speci- 
mens of a variety of helix from the floating islands. In 
this spot the river is from 1500 yards to a mile wide ; the 
country, flat and uninteresting, being the usual scattered 
thorn bushes and arid plains, the only actual timber being 
confined to the borders of the river. Course, always 
south with few turns. My sponging-bath makes a good 
pinnace for going ashore from the vessel. At 4.20 p.m. one 
of the noggurs carried away her yard — the same boat that 



26 USES OF FISH-SKIN. [Chap. I. 

met with the accident at our departure ; hove to, and 
closed with the hank for repairs. Here is an affair of 
delay ; worked with my own hands until 9 P.M. ; spliced 
the yard, bound it with rhinoceros thongs, and secured the 
whole splice with raw bull's hide. Posted sentries — two 
on each boat, and two on shore. 

28th Dec—At work at break of day. Completed the 
repair of yard, which is disgracefully faulty. Ee-rigged 
the mast. Poor Johann will die, I much fear. His con- 
stitution appears to be quite broken up ; he has become 
deaf, and there is every symptom of decay. I have done 
all I can for him, but his voyage in this life is nearly over. 
Ship in order, and all sailed together at 2.15 P.M. Strong 
north wind. Two vessels from Khartoum passed us while 
repairing damages. I re-arranged the donkeys, dividing 
them into stalls containing three each, as they were 
such donkeys that they crowded each other unnecessarily. 
Caught a curious fish (Tetrodon physa of Geof.), that dis- 
tends itself with air like a bladder; colour black, and 
yellow stripes ; lungs ; apertures under the fins, which 
open and shut by their movement, their motion being a 
semi-revolution. This fish is a close link between fish and 
turtle ; the head is precisely that of the latter, having no 
teeth, but cutting jaws of hard bone of immense power. 
Many minutes after the head had been severed from the 
body, the jaws nipped with fury anything that was in- 
serted in the mouth, ripping through thin twigs and thick 
straw like a pair of shears. The skin of the belly is 
white, and is armed with prickles. The skin is wonderfully 
tough. I accordingly cut it into a long thong, and bound 
up the stock of a rifle that had been split from the recoil 
of heavy charges of powder. The flesh was strong of 
musk, and uneatable. There is nothing so good as fish- 
skin — or that of the iguana, or of the crocodile — for 
lashing broken gun-stocks. Isinglass, when taken fresh 
from the fish and bound round a broken stock like a 
plaster, will become as strong as metal when dry. Country 
as usual — flat and thorny bush. A heavy swell, creates 
a curious effect in the undulations of the green rafts upon 



Chap. I.] JOHANN DYING. %J 

the water. Diuka country on east bank ; Shillook on 
the west ; course south ; all Arab tribes are left behind, 
and we are now thoroughly among the negroes. 

29 th Dec. — At midnight the river made a bend west- 
ward, which continued for about fifteen miles. The 
wind being adverse, at 5 a.m. we found ourselves fast in 
the grass and floating vegetation on the lee side. Two 
hours' hard work at two ropes, alternately, fastened to 
the high grass ahead of the boat and hauled upon from 
the deck, warped us round the bend of the river, which 
turning due south, we again ran before a favourable gale 
for two hours ; all the boats well together. The east 
bank of the river is not discernible — a vast expanse of 
high reeds stretching as far as the eye can reach ; course 
P.M. W.S.W. At 4 p.m. the " Clumsy," as I have named 
one of our noggurs, suddenly carried away her mast close 
by the board, the huge yard and rigging falling over- 
board with the wreck, severely hurting two men and 
breaking one of their guns. Hove to by an island on 
the Shillook side, towed the wreck ashore, and assembled 
all the boats. Fortunately there is timber at hand ; thus 
I cut down a tree for a mast and got all ready for 
commencing repairs to-morrow. Poor Johann is, as I 
had feared, dying ; he bleeds from the lungs, and is in 
the last stage of exhaustion. Posted six sentries. 

30 th Dec. — Johann is in a dying state, but sensible ; 
all his hopes, poor fellow, of saving money in my service 
and returning to Bavaria are past. I sat by his bed for 
some hours ; there was not a ray of hope ; he could speak 
with difficulty, and the flies walked across his glazed 
eyeballs without his knowledge. Gently bathing his face 
and hands, I asked him if I could deliver any message 
to his relatives. He faintly uttered, "I am prepared to 
die ; I have neither parents nor relations ; but there is 
one — she " — he faltered. He could not finish his sentence, 
but his dying thoughts were with one he loved ; far, far 
away from this wild and miserable land, his spirit was 
transported to his native village, and to the object that 
made life dear to him. Did not a shudder pass over her, 



28 DEATH OF JOHANN. [Chap. T. 

a chill warning at that sad moment when all was passing 
away? I pressed his cold hand, and asked her name. 
Gathering his remaining strength he murmured, "Krom- 
bach " * . . . " Es bleibt nur zu sterben." " Ich bin sehr 
dankbar." These were the last words he spoke, " I am 
very grateful." I gazed sorrowfully at his attenuated 
figure, and at the now powerless hand that had laid low 
many an elephant and lion, in its day of strength; and 
the cold sweat of death lay thick upon his forehead. 
Although the pulse was not yet still, Johann was gone. 

31st Dec. — Johann died. I made a huge cross with 
my own hands from the trunk of a tamarind tree, and 
by moonlight we laid him in his grave in this lonely spot. 

" No useless coffin inclosed his breast, 

Nor in sheet nor in shroud we wound him ; 
But he lay like a pilgrim taking his rest, 
With his mantle drawn around him." 

This is a mournful commencement of the voyage. Poor 
fellow, I did all I could for him although that was but 
little ; and hands far more tender than mine ministered 
to his last necessities. This sad event closes the year 
1862. Made sail at 8.30 p.m., the repairs of ship being 
completed. 

1863, Jan. 1st, 2 o'clock A.M. — Melancholy thoughts 
preventing sleep, I have watched the arrival of the new 
year. Thank God for His blessings during the past, and 
may He guide us through the untrodden path before us ' 

We arrived at the village of Mahomed Her in the 
Shillook country. This man is a native of Dongola, who, 
having become a White Nile adventurer, established him- 
self among the Shillook tribe with a band of ruffians, 
and is the arch-slaver of the Nile. The country, as 
usual, a dead fiat : many Shillook villages on west bank 
all deserted, owing to Mahomed Her's plundering. This 
fellow now assumes a right of territory, and offers to pay 
tribute to the Egyptian Government, thus throwing a sop 
to Cerberus to prevent intervention. 

» Krombach was merely the name of his native village in Bavaria. 



Chap. L] SHILLOOK VILLAGES. 29 

Course S.W. The river in clear water about seven 
hundred yards wide, but sedge on the east bank for a 
couple of miles in width. 

2d Jan. — The " Clumsy " lagging, come to grief again, 
having once more sprung her rotten yard. Tine breeze, 
but obliged to wait upon this wretched boat — the usual 
flat uninteresting marshes : Shillook villages in great 
numbers on the terra firma to the west. Verily it is 
a pleasant voyage ; disgusting naked savages, everlasting 
marshes teeming with mosquitoes, and the entire country 
devoid of anything of either common interest or beauty. 
Course west the whole day ; saw giraffes and one ostrich 
on the east bank. On the west bank there is a regular 
line of villages throughout the day's voyage within half 
a mile of each other ; the country very thickly populated. 
The huts are of mud, thatched, having a very small 
entrance — they resemble button mushrooms. The Shil- 
looks are wealthy, immense herds of cattle swarm through- 
out their country. The natives navigate the river in two 
kinds of canoes — one of which is a curious combination 
of raft and canoe formed of the Ambatch wood, which 
is so light, that the whole affair is portable. The 
Ambatch {Anemone mirabilis) is seldom larger than a 
man's waist, and as it tapers naturally to a point, the 
canoe rafts are quickly formed by lashing the branches 
parallel to each other, and tying the narrow ends together. 

3d Jan. — The " Clumsy's " yard having been lashed 
with rhinoceros' hide, fortunately holds together, although 
sprung. Stopped this morning on the east bank, and 
gathered a supply of wood. On the west bank Shillook 
villages as yesterday during the day's voyage, all within 
half a mile of each other ; one village situated among a 
thick grove of the dolape palms close to the river. The 
natives, afraid of our boats, decamped, likewise the fisher- 
men, who were harpooning fish from small fishing stations 
among the reeds. 

The country, as usual, dead flat, and very marshy on 
the east bank, upon which side I see no signs of habita- 
tions. Course this morning south. Arrived at the river 



30 THE SOB AT RIVER. [Chap. I. 

Sobat junction at 12.40 p.m., and anchored about half a 
mile within that river at a spot where the Turks had 
formerly constructed a camp. Not a tree to be seen ; 
but dead fiats of prairie and marsh as far as the eye can 
reach. The Sobat is not more than a hundred and 
twenty yards in breadth. 

T measured the stream by a floating gourd, which 
travelled 130 yards in 112 seconds, equal to about two 
miles and a half an hour. The quality of the water is 
very superior to that of the White Mle — this would 
suggest that it is of mountain origin. Upward course of 
Sobat south, 25° east. Upward course of the White 
Nile west, 2° north from the Sobat junction. 

4th Jan. — By observation of sun's meridian altitude, I 
make the latitude of the Sobat junction 9° 21' 14". Busy 
fishing the yard of the " Clumsy," and mending sails. 
The camels and donkeys all well — plenty of fine grass 
— made a good stock of hay. My reis and boatmen tell 
me that the Sobat, within a few days' sail of the junction, 
divides into seven branches, all shallow and with a rapid 
current. The banks are fiat, and the river is now bank- 
full. Although the water is perfectly clear, and there is 
no appearance of flood, yet masses of weeds, as though 
torn from their beds by torrents, are constantly floating 
down the stream. One of my men has been up the 
river to the farthest navigable point; he declares that it 
is fed by many mountain torrents, and that it runs out 
very rapidly at the cessation of the rains. I sounded 
the river in many places, the depth varying very slightly, 
from twenty-seven to twenty-eight feet. At 5 P.M. set sail 
with a light breeze, and glided along the dead water of 
the White Nile. Full moon — the water like a mirror; 
the country one vast and apparently interminable marsh 
— the river about a mile wide, and more or less covered 
with floating plants. The night still as death ; dogs 
barking in the distant villages, and herds of hippopotami 
snorting in all directions, being disturbed by the boats. 
Course west. 

bth Jan. — Fine breeze, as much as we can carry ; boats 



Chap. I.] BAHR EL GAZAL. 31 

running at eight or nine miles an hour — no stream per- 
ceptible ; vast marshes ; the clear water of the river not 
more than 150 yards wide, forming a channel through 
the great extent of water grass resembling high sugar- 
canes, which conceal the true extent of the river. About 
six miles west from the Sobat junction on the north side 
of the river, is a kind of backwater, extending north like 
a lake for a distance of several days' boat journey : this is 
eventually lost in regions of high grass and marshes ; in 
the wet season this forms a large lake. A hill bearing 
north 20° west so distant as to be hardly discernible. 
The Bahr Giraffe is a small river entering the Nile on 
the south bank between the Sobat and Bahr el Gazal — 
my reis (Diabb) tells me it is merely a branch from the 
White Nile from the Aliab country, and not an inde- 
pendent river. Course west, 10° north, the current about 
one mile per hour. Marshes and ambatch, far as the 
eye can reach. 

At 6.40 p.m. reached the Bahr el Gazal ; the junction 
has the appearance of a lake about three miles in length, 
by one in width, varying according to seasons. Although 
bank-full, there is no stream whatever from the Bahr el 
Gazal, and it has the appearance of a back-water formed 
by the Nile. The water being clear and perfectly dead, a 
stranger would imagine it to be an overflow of the Nile, 
were the existence of the Bahr el Gazal unknown. 

The Bahr el Gazal extends due west from this point 
for a great distance, the entire river being a system 
of marshes, stagnant water overgrown by rushes, and am- 
batch wood, through which a channel has to be cleared 
to permit the passage of a boat. Little or no water can 
descend to the Nile from this river, otherwise there would 
be some trifling current at the embouchure. The Nile 
has a stream of about a mile and a half per hour, as it 
sweeps suddenly round the angle, changing its downward 
course from north to east. The breadth in this spot does 
not exceed 130 yards ; but it is impossible to determine the 
actual width of the river, as its extent is concealed by reeds 
with which the country is entirely covered to the horizon. 



32 OBSERVATIONS. [Chap. I. 

The White Nile having an upward course of west 10° 
north, variation of compass 10° west, from the Sobat to 
the Bahr el G-azal junction, now turns abruptly to south 
10° east. From native accounts there is a great extent 
of lake country at this point. The general appearance of 
the country denotes a vast fiat, .with slight depressions; 
these form extensive lakes during the wet season, and 
sodden marshes during the dry weather; thus contradictory 
accounts of the country may be given by travellers ac- 
cording to the seasons at which they examined it. There 
is nothing to denote large permanent lakes ; vast masses 
of water plants and vegetation, requiring both a wet and 
dry season, exist throughout; but there are no great 
tracts of deep water. The lake at the Bahr el Gazal 
entrance is from seven to nine feet deep, by soundings in 
various places. Anchored the little squadron, as I wait 
here for observations. Had the " Clumsy' s" yard lowered 
and examined. Cut a supply of grass for the animals. 

Jan. 6th. — Overhauled the stores. My stock of liquor 
will last to Gondokoro ; after that spot " vive la misere." 
It is curious in African travel to mark the degrees of 
luxury and misery ; how, one by one, the wine, spirits 
bread, sugar, tea, &c, are dropped like the feathers of a 
moulting bird, and nevertheless we go ahead contented. 

My men busy cutting grass, washing, fishing, &c. : 
Latitude, by meridian altitude of sun, 9° 29'. Difference 
ortime by observation between this point and the Sobat 
junction, 4 min. 26 sees., 1° 6' 30" distance. Caught some 
perch, but without the red fin of the European species ; 
also some boulti with the net. The latter is a variety of 
perch growing to about four pounds' weight, and is ex- 
cellent eating. 

Sailed at 3 P.M. Masses of the beautiful but gloomy 
Papyrus rush, growing in dense thickets about eighteen 
feet above the water. I measured the diameter of one 
head, or crown, four feet one inch. 

Jan. 7th. — Started at 6 a.m. ; course E. 10° S. ; wind 
dead against us ; the " Clumsy " not in sight. Obliged to 
haul along by fastening long ropes to the grass about a 



Chap. I.] CORPORAL RICHARN. 33 

hundred yards ahead. This is frightful work ; the men 
must swim that distance to secure the rope, and those on 
board hauling it in gradually, pull the vessel against the 
stream. Nothing can exceed, the labour and tediousness 
of this operation. From, constant work in the water many 
of my men are suffering from fever. The temperature is 
much higher than when we left Khartoum ; the country, 
as usual, one vast marsh. At night the hoarse music of 
hippopotami snorting and playing among the high-flooded 
reeds, and the singing of countless myriads of mosquitoes 
— the nightingales of the White Nile. My black fellow, 
Eicharn, whom I had appointed corporal, will soon be 
reduced to the ranks ; the animal is spoiled by sheer 
drink. Having been drunk every day in Khartoum, and 
now being separated from his liquor, he is plunged into a 
black melancholy. He sits upon the luggage like a sick 
rook, doing minstrelsy, playing the rababa (guitar), and 
smoking the whole day, unless asleep, which is half that 
time : he is sighing after the merissa (beer) pots of Egypt. 
This man is an illustration of missionary success. He 
was brought up from boyhood at the Austrian mission, 
and he is a genuine specimen of the average results. He 
told me a few days ago that " he is no longer a Christian." 

There are two varieties of convolvolus growing here : 
also a peculiar gourd, which, when dry and divested of its 
shell, exposes a vegetable sponge, formed of a dense but 
fine network of fibres ; the seeds are contained in the 
centre of this fibre. The bright yellow flowers of the 
ambatGh, and of a tree resembling a laburnum, are in 
great profusion. The men completely done : I served 
them out a measure of grog. The " Clumsy " not in sight. 

Jan. 8th. — Waited all night for the "Clumsy." She 
appeared at 8 a.m., when the reis and several men received 
the whip for laziness. All three vessels now rounded a 
sharp turn in the river, and the wind being then favourable, 
we were soon under sail. The clear water of the river 
from the Bahr el Gazal to this point, does not exceed a 
hundred and twenty yards in width. The stream runs at 
one and three-quarter miles per hour, bringing with it a 

D 



34 PECULIARITY OF RIVER SOBAT. [Chap. I. 

quantity of floating vegetation. The fact of a strong 
current both above and below the Bahr el Gazal junction, 
while the lake at that point is dead water, proves that I 
was right in my surmise, that no water flows from the 
Bahr el Gazal into the Nile during this season, and that 
the lake and the extensive marshes at that locality are 
caused as much by the surplus water of the White ."Nile 
flowing into a depression, as they are by the Bahr el Gazal, 
the water of the latter river being absorbed by the immense 
marshes. 

Yesterday we anchored at a dry spot, on which grew 
many mimosas of the red bark variety ; the ground was 
a dead flat, and the river was up to the roots of the trees 
near the margin ; thus the river is quite full at this season, 
but not flooded. There was no watermark upon the stems 
of the trees ; thus I have little doubt that the actual rise 
of the water-level during the rainy season is very trifling, 
as the water extends over a prodigious extent of surface, 
the river having no banks. The entire country is merely 
a vast marsh, with a river flowing through the midst. 

At this season last year I was on the Settite. That 
great river and the Atbara were then excessively low. 
The Blue Nile was also low at the same time. On the 
contrary, the White Nile and the Sobat, although not at 
their highest, are bank-full, while the former two are 
failing; this proves that the White Nile and the Sobat 
rise far south, among mountains subject to a rainfall at 
different seasons, extending over a greater portion of the 
year than the rainy season of Abyssinia and the neigh- 
bouring Galla country. 

It is not surprising that the ancients gave up the ex- 
ploration of the Nile when they came to the countless 
windings and difficulties of the marshes ; the river is 
like an entangled skein of thread. Wind light ; course 
S. 20° W. The strong north wind that took us from 
Khartoum has long since become a mere breath. Tt never 
blows in this latitude regularly from the north. The 
wind commences at between 8 and 9 a.m., and sinks at 
sunset ; thus the voyage through these frightful marshes 



Chap. L] BULL BUFFALO. 35 

and windings is tedious and melancholy beyond descrip- 
tion. Great numbers of hippopotami this evening, greeting 
the boats with their loud snorting bellow, which vibrates 
through the vessels. 

Jan. 9 th. — Two natives fishing ; left their canoe and ran 
on the approach of our boats. My men wished to steal 
it, which of course I prevented ; it was a simple dome- 
palm hollowed. In the canoe was a harpoon, very neatly 
made, with only one barb. Both sides of the river from 
the Bahr el Gazal belong to theNuehr tribe.' Course S.E.; 
wind very light ; windings of river endless ; continual 
hauling. At about half an hour before sunset, as the men 
were hauling the boat along by dragging at the high reecls 
from the deck, a man at the mast-head reported a buffalo 
standing on a dry piece of ground near the river ; being in 
want of meat, the men begged me to shoot him. The 
buffalo was so concealed by the high grass, that he could 
not be seen from the deck; I therefore stood upon an 
angarep (bedstead) on the poop, and from this I could just 
discern his head and shoulders in the high grass, about a 
hundred and twenty yards off. I fired with No. 1 Beilly 
rifle, and he dropped apparently dead to the shot. The men 
being hungry, were mad with delight, and regardless of 
all but meat, they dashed into the water, and were shortly 
at him ; one man holding him by the tail, another dancing 
upon him and brandishing his knife, and all shouting a 
yell of exultation. Presently up jumped the insulted 
buffalo, and charging through the men, he disappeared in 
the high grass, falling, as the men declared, in the deep 
morass. It was dusk, and the men, being rather ashamed 
of their folly in dancing instead of hamstringing the 
animal and securing their beef, slunk back to their 
vessels. 

Jan. 10th. — Early in the morning the buffalo was heard 
groaning in the marsh, not far from the spot where he was 
supposed to have fallen. About forty men took their 
guns and knives, intent upon beefsteaks, and waded knee- 
deep in mud and water through the high grass of the 
morass in search. About one hour passed in this way, 

d2 



36 BURIAL OF SALI ACHHET. [Chap. 1. 

and, seeing the reckless manner in which the men were 
wandering about, I went down below to beat the drum to 
call them back, which the vakeel had been vainly attempt- 
ing. Just at this moment I heard a distant yelling, and 
shot fired after shot, about twenty times, in quick suc- 
cession. I saw with the telescope a crowd of men about 
three hundred yards distant, standing on a white ant-hill 
raised above the green sea of high reeds, from which 
elevated point they were keeping up a dropping fire at 
some object indistinguishable in the high grass. The 
death-howl was soon raised, and the men rushing down 
from their secure position, shortly appeared, carrying with 
them my best choush, Sali Achmet, dead. He had come 
suddenly upon the buffalo, who, although disabled, had 
caught him in the deep mud and killed him. His gallant 
comrades bolted, although he called to them for assistance, 
and they had kept up a distant fire from the lofty ant-hill, 
instead of rushing to his rescue. The buffalo lay dead ; 
and a grave was immediately dug for the unfortunate 
Sali. My journey begins badly with the death of my 
good man Johann and my best choush— added to the 
constant mishaps of the " Clumsy." Fortunately I did 
not start from Khartoum on a Friday, or the unlucky day 
would have borne the onus of all the misfortunes. 

The graves of the Arabs are an improvement upon 
those of Europeans. What poor person who cannot afford 
a vault, has not felt a pang as the clod fell upon the coffin 
of his relative ? The Arabs avoid this. Although there 
is no coffin, the rude earth does not rest upon the body. 
The hole being dug similar in shape to a European grave, 
an extra trench is formed at the bottom of the grave 
about a foot wide. The body is laid upon its side within 
this trench, and covered by bricks made of clay which are 
laid across ; — thus the body is contained within a narrow 
vault. Mud is then smeared over the hastily made bricks, 
and nothing is visible; the tomb being made level with 
the bottom of the large grave. This is filled up with 
earth, which, resting on the brick covering of the trench, 
cannot press upon the bodjr. In such a grave my best 



Chap. L] FEROCITY OF THE BUFFALO. 37 

man was laid — the Slave -women raising their horrible 
howling and my men crying loudly, as well explained in 
the words of Scripture, " and he lifted up his voice and 
wept." I was glad to see so much external feeling for 
their comrade, but the grave being filled, their grief, like 
all loud sorrow, passed quickly away and relapsed into 
thoughts of buffalo meat ; they were soon busily engaged 
in cutting up the flesh. There are two varieties of 
buffaloes in this part of Africa — the Bos Caffer, with 
convex horns, and that with flat horns ; this was the 
latter species. A horn had entered the man's thigh, 
tearing the whole of the muscles from the bone; there 
was also a wound from the centre of the throat to the ear, 
thus completely torn open, severing the jugular vein. 
One rib was broken, the breast-bone. As usual with 
buffaloes, he had not rested content until he had pounded 
the breath out of the body, which was found imbedded 
and literally stamped tight into the mud, with only a 
portion of the head above the marsh. Sali had not even 
cocked his gun, the hammer being down on the nipples 
when found. I will not allow these men to come to grief 
in this way ; they are a reckless set of thoughtless 
cowards, full of noise and bluster, fond of firing off their 
guns like children, and wasting ammunition uselessly, 
and in time of danger they can never be relied upon ; 
they deserted their comrade when in need, and cried aloud 
like infants at his death ; they shall not again be allowed 
to move from the boats. 

In the evening I listened to the men conversing over 
the whole affair, when I learnt the entire truth. It 
appears that Eicharn and two other men were with the 
unfortunate Sali when the brute charged him, and the 
cowards all bolted without firing a shot in defence. 
There was a large white ant-hill about fifty yards distant, 
to which they retreated ; from the top of this fort they 
repeatedly saw the man thrown into the air, and heard 
him calling for assistance. Instead of hastening in a body 
to his aid, they called to him to "keep quiet and the 
buffalo would leave him." This is a sample of the courage 



38 WINDINGS OF THE WHITE NILE. [Ckaf. I 

of these Khartoumers. The buffalo was so disabled by 
my shot of yesterday that he was incapable of leaving 
the spot, as, with a broken shoulder, he could not get 
through the deep mud. My Eeilly No. 10 bullet was 
found under the skin of the right shoulder, having passed 
in at the left shoulder rather above the lungs. 

The windings of this monotonous river are extraordinary, 
and during dead calms in these vast marshes the feeling 
of melancholy produced is beyond description. The 
White Nile is a veritable " Styx." When the wind does 
happen to blow hard, the navigation is most difficult, 
owing to the constant windings ; the sailors being utterly 
ignorant, and the rig of the vessel being the usual huge 
" leg of mutton " sail, there is an amount of screaming 
and confusion at every attempt to tack which generally 
ends in our being driven on the lee marsh ; this is pre- 
ferable to a capsize, which is sometimes anything but 
distant. This morning is one of those days of blowing 
hard, with the accompaniments of screaming and shouting. 
Course S.E. Waited half a day for the " Clumsy," which 
hove in sight just before dark ; the detentions caused by 
this vessel are becoming serious, a quick voyage being 
indispensable for the animals. The camels are already 
suffering from confinement, and I have their legs well 
swathed in wet bandages. 

This marsh land varies in width. In some portions of 
the river it appears to extend for about two miles on 
either side ; in other parts farther than the eye can reach. 
In all cases the main country is a dead flat ; now blazing 
and smoking beyond the limit of marshes, as the natives 
have fired the dry grass in all directions. Eeeds, similar 
in appearance to bamboos but distinct from them, high 
water-grass, like sugar-canes, excellent fodder for the 
cattle, and the ever-present ambatch, cover the morasses. 
Innumerable mosquitoes. 

Jan. 12th. — Fine breeze in the morning, but obliged 
to wait for the " Clumsy," which arrived at 10 a.m. How 
absurd are some descriptions of the White Nile, which 
state that there is no current ! At some parts, like that 



Chap. L] JOCTIAN AND HIS WIFE. 39 

from just above the Sobat junction to Khartoum, there 
is but little, but since we have left the Bahr el Gazal 
the stream runs from one and three-quarters to two and 
a half miles per hour, varying in localities. Here it is 
not more than a hundred yards wide in clear water. 

At 11.20 a.m. got under weigh with a rattling breeze, 
but scarcely had we been half an hour under sail when 
crack went the great yard of the " Clumsy " once more. 
I had her taken in tow. It is of no use repairing the yard 
again, and, were it not for the donkeys, I would abandon 
her. Koorshid Aga's boats were passing us in full sail 
when his diahbiah suddenly carried away her rudder, and 
went head first into the morass. I serve out grog to the 
men when the drum beats at sunset, if all the boats are 
together. 

Jan. lWi. — Stopped near a village on the right bank 
in company with Koorshid Aga's two diahbiahs. The 
natives came down to the boats — they are something 
superlative in the way of savages ; the men as naked 
as they came into the world; their bodies rubbed with 
ashes, and their hair stained red by a plaster of ashes 
and cow's urine. These fellows are the most unearthly- 
looking devils I ever saw — there is no other expression 
for them. The unmarried women are also entirely naked ; 
the married have a fringe made of grass around their loins. 
The men wear heavy coils of beads about their necks, two 
heavy bracelets of ivory on the upper portion of the arms, 
copper rings upon the wrists, and a horrible kind of 
bracelet of massive iron armed with spikes about an inch 
in length, like leopard's claws, which they use for a similar 
purpose. The chief of the Nuehr village, Joctian, with 
his wife and daughter, paid me a visit, and asked for 
all they saw in the shape of beads and bracelets, but 
declined a knife as useless. They went away delighted 
with their presents. The women perforate the upper lip, 
and wear an ornament about four inches long of beads 
upon an iron wire ; this projects like the horn of a 
rhinoceros ; they are very ugly. The men are tall and 
powerful, armed with lances. They carry pipes that 



40 



SMOKING HABITS OF THE NUEHRS. [Chap. I. 



contain nearly a quarter of a pound of tobacco, in which 
they smoke simple charcoal should the loved tobacco fail. 
The carbonic acid gas of the charcoal produces a slight 
feeling of intoxication, which is the effect desired. 
Koorshid Aga returned them a girl from Khartoum who 
had been captured by a slave-hunter ; this delighted the 




NUEHB NATIVES. COillMU TO THE BOATS. 



people, and they immediately brought an ox as an offering. 
The " Clumsy's " yard broke in two pieces, thus I was 
obliged to seek a dry spot for the necessary repairs. I 
left the village Nuehr Eliab, and in the evening lowered 
the " Clumsy's " yard ; taking her in tow, we are, this 



Chap. I] 



CHARMING HUSBAND ! 



41 



moment, 8.30 P.M., slowly sailing through clouds of mos- 
quitoes looking out for a landing-place in this world of 
marshes. I took the chief of the iSTuehrs' portrait, as he 
sat in my cabin on the divan ; of course he was delighted. 
He exhibited his wife's arms and back covered with jagged 




JOCT1AN, CHIEF OJ<" THE NUEHR TRIBE. 



scars, in reply to my question as to the use of the spiked 
iron bracelet. Charming people are these poor blacks ! as 
they are termed by English sympathisers; he was quite 
proud of having clawed his wife like a wild beast. In 
sober earnest, my monkey " Wallady " looks like a civilized 



42 CATCH A HIPPOPOTAMUS. [Chap. T. 

being compared to the Nuehr savages. The chief's fore- 
head was ' tattooed in horizontal lines that had the 
appearance of wrinkles. The hair is worn drawn back 
from the face. Both men and women wear a bag slung 
from the neck, apparently to contain any presents they 
may receive, everything being immediately pocketed. 
Course S.S.E. 

Jan. 1-Uh. — All day occupied in repairing the yard ; the 
buffalo hide of the animal that killed Sali Achmet being 
most serviceable in lashing. Sailed in the evening in 
company with a boat belonging to the Austrian mission. 
Eiver about 120 yards of clear water ; current about two 
miles per hour. Found quantities of natron on the marshy 
ground bordering the river. 

Had a turkey for dinner, a " cadeau " from Koorshid 
Aga, and, as a great wonder, the kisras (a sort of brown 
pancake in lieu of bread) were free from sand. I must 
have swallowed a good-sized millstone since I have been in 
Africa, in the shape of grit rubbed from the moorhaka, or 
grinding-stone. The moorhaka, when new, is a large flat 
stone, weighing about forty pounds ; upon this the corn is 
ground by being rubbed with a cylindrical stone with both 
hands. After a few months' use half of the original 
grinding-stone disappears, the grit being mixed with the 
flour ; thus the grinding-stone is actually eaten. No 
wonder that hearts become stony in this country ! 

Jan. 15th. — We were towing through high reeds this 
morning, the men invisible, and the rope mowing over the 
high tops of the grass, when the noise disturbed a hippo- 
potamus from his slumber, and he was immediately per- 
ceived close to the boat. He was about half grown, and in 
an instant about twenty men jumped into the water in 
search of him, thinking him a mere baby ; but as he sud- 
denly appeared, and was about three times as large as they 
had expected, they were not very eager to close. However, 
the reis Diabb pluckily led the way and seized him by the 
hind leg, when the crowd of men rushed in, and we had a 
grand tussle. Eopes were thrown from the vessel, and 
nooses were quickly slipped over his head, but he had the 



Chap. I.] " PERHAPS IT WAS HIS UNCLE." 43 

best of the struggle and was dragging the people into the 
open river ; I was therefore obliged to end the sport by 
putting a ball through his head. He was scored all over 
by the tusks of some other hippopotamus that had been 
bullying him. The men declared that his father had thus 
misused him ; others were of opinion that it was his 
mother ; and the argument ran high, and became hot. 
These Arabs have an extraordinary taste for arguments 
upon the most trifling points. I have frequently known 
my men argue throughout the greater part of the night, 
and recommence the same argument on the following 
morning. These debates generally end in a fight ; and in 
the present instance the excitement of the hunt only added 
to the heat of the argument. They at length agreed to 
refer it to me, and both parties approached, vociferously 
advancing their theories ; one half persisting that the 
young hippo had been bullied by his father, and the others 
adhering to the mother as the cause. I, being referee, 
suggested that "perhaps it was his uncle." Wah Illahi 
sahe ! (By Allah it is true !) Both parties were satisfied 
with the suggestion ; dropping their theory they became 
practical, and fell to with knives and axes to cut up the 
cause of the argument. He was as fat as butter, and was 
a perfect godsend to the people, who divided him with 
great excitement and good humour. 

We are now a fleet of seven boats, those of several 
traders having joined us. The " Clumsy's " yard looks 
much better than formerly. I cut off about ten feet from 
the end, as it was topheavy. The yard of this class of 
vessel should look like an immense fishing-rod, and should 
be proportionately elastic, as it tapers gradually to a point. 
Course S.E. I hear that the Shillook tribe have attacked 
Chenooda's people, and that his boat was capsized, and 
some lives lost in the hasty retreat. It serves these slave- 
hunters right, and I rejoice at their defeat. Exodus 
xx. 16 : " And he that stealeth a man, and selleth him, or 
if he be found in his hand, he shall surely be put to 
death." 

Jan. 16th. — A new dish ! There is no longer mock- 



44 RICH ARN REDUCED TO THE RANKS. [Chap. I. 

turtle soup — real turtle is mock hippopotamus. I tried 
"boiling the fat, flesh, and skin together, the result being 
that the skin assumes the appearance of the green fat of 
the turtle, but is far superior. A piece of the head thus 
boiled, and then soused in vinegar, with chopped onions, 
cayenne pepper, and salt, throws brawn completely in the 
shade. My men having revelled in a cauldron of hippo- 
potamus soup, I serve out grog at sunset, all ships being 
together. Great contentment, all appetites being satisfied. 
The labour of towing through swamps, tugging by the long 
grass, and poling against a strong current, is dreadful, and 
there appears to be no end to this horrible country. 

" On Sit," thab during the dry season there is plenty of 
game near the river, but at present boundless marshes 
devoid of life, except in the shape of mosquitoes, and a 
very few water-fowl, are the only charms of the White 
Nile. The other day I caught one of the men stealing the 
salt ; Kicharn having been aware of daily thefts of this 
treasure, and having failed to report them, the thief re- 
ceived twenty with the coorbatch, and Kicharn is reduced 
to the ranks, as I anticipated. No possibility of taking- 
observations, as there is no landing-place. 

Jan. 17 th. — As usual, marshes, mosquitoes, windings, 
dead fiats, and light winds ; the mosquitoes in the cabin 
give no rest even during the day. Stream about two miles 
per hour. Course S.E. ; the river averaging about one 
hundred and ten yards in width of clear water. 

Jan. 18th. — Country as usual, but the wind brisker. In 
company with Koorshid Aga's boats. I have bound the 
stock of OswelTs old gun with rhinoceros hide. All guns 
made for sport in wild countries and rough riding, should 
have steel instead of iron from the breech-socket, extending 
far back to within six inches of the shoulder-plate ; the 
trigger-guard should likewise be steel, and should be 
carried back to an equal distance with the above rib : the 
steel should be of extra thickness, and screwed through to 
the upper piece ; thus the two, being connected by screws 
above and below, no fall could break the stock. 

Jan. 19th. — At 8 a.m. we emerged from the apparently 



Chap. l.J FISH-SPEARING. 45 

endless regions of marsh grass, and saw on the right bank 
large herds of cattle, tended by naked natives, in a country 
abounding with high grass and mimosa wood, At 9.15 
a.m. arrived at the Zareeba, or station of Binder, an 
Austrian subject, and White Nile trader ; here, we found 
five noggurs belonging to him and his partner. Binder's 
vakeel insisted upon giving a bullock to my people. This 
bullock I resisted for some time, until I saw that the man 
was affronted. It is impossible to procure from the natives 
any cattle by purchase. The country is now a swamp, but 
it will be passable during the dry season. Took equal 
altitudes of sun producing latitude 7° 5' 46". The misery 
of these unfortunate blacks is beyond description ; they 
will not kill their cattle, neither do they taste meat unless 
an animal dies of sickness ; they will not work, thus they 
frequently starve, existing only upon rats, lizards, snakes, 
and upon such fish as they can spear. The spearing of 
fish is a mere hazard, as they cast the harpoon at random 
among the reeds ; thus, out of three or four hundred casts, 
they may, by good luck, strike a fish. The harpoon is 
neatly made, and is attached to a pliable reed about twenty 
feet long, secured by a long line. Occasionally they strike 
a monster, as there are varieties of fish which attain a 
weight of two hundred pounds. In the event of harpoon- 
ing such a fish, a long and exciting chase is the result, as 
he carries away the harpoon, and runs out the entire 
length of line ; they then swim after hiim holding their 
end of the line, and playing him until exhausted. 

The chief of this tribe (the Kytch) wore a leopard-skin 
across his shoulders, and a skull-cap of white beads, with 
a crest of white ostrich-feathers ; but the mantle was 
merely slung over his shoulders, and all other parts of his 
person were naked. His daughter was the best-looking 
girl that I have seen among the blacks ; she was about 
sixteen. Her clothing consisted of a little piece of dressed 
hide about a foot wide slung across her shoulders, all other 
parts being exposed. All the girls of this country wear 
merely a circlet of little iron jingling ornaments round 
their waist They came in numbers, bringing small 



46 



THE KYTCH TRIBE. 



[Chap. I. 

bundles of wood to exchange for a few handfuls of corn. 
Most of the men are tall, but wretchedly thin ; the chil- 
dren are mere skeletons, and the entire tribe appears 
thoroughly starved. The language is that of the Dinka. 
The chief carried a curious tobacco-box, an iron spike 
about two feet long, with a hollow socket, bound with 




CHIEF OV KYTCH AND DAUGHTER. 



iguana-skin; this served for either tobacco-box, club, or 
dagger. Throughout the whole of this marshy country it 
is curious to observe the number of white ant-hills 
standing above the water in the marshes : these Babel 
towers save their inmates from the deluge ; working during 
the dry season, the white ants carry their hills to so great 



Chap. I.] 



LAZINESS OF THE NATIVES. 



47 



a height (about ten feet), that they can live securely in 
the upper stories during the floods. The whole day we 
are beset by crowds of starving people, bringing small 
gourd-shells to receive the expected corn. The people of 




STARVING BOY OF KYTCH TRIBE BEGGING. 



this tribe are mere apes, trusting entirely to the produc- 
tions of nature for their subsistence ; they will spend 
hours in digging out field-mice from their burrows, as we 
should for rabbits. They are the most pitiable set of 



48 STARVATION IN TEE KYTCH COUNTRY. [Chap. I. 

savages that can "be imagined ; so emaciated, that they 
have no visible posteriors ; they look as though they had 
been planed off, and their long thin legs and arms give 
them a peculiar gnat-like appearance. At night they 
crouch close to the fires, lying in the smoke to escape the 
clouds of mosquitoes. At this season the country is a 
vast swamp, the only dry spots being the white ant-hills ; 
in such places the natives herd like wild animals, simply 
rubbing themselves with wood-ashes to keep out the 
cold. 

Jan. 20th. — The river from this spot turns sharp to the 
east, but an arm equally broad comes from S. 20° E. to 
this point. There is no stream from this arm. The main 
stream runs round the angle with a rapid current of about 
two and a half miles per hour. The natives say that 
this arm of dead water extends for three or four days' 
sailing, and is then lost in the high reeds. My reis 
Diabb declares this to be a mere backwater, and that it 
is not connected with the main river by any positive 
channel. 

So miserable are the natives of the Kytch tribe, that 
they devour both skins and bones of all dead animals ; 
the bones are pounded between stones, and when reduced 
to powder they are boiled to a kind of porridge ; nothing 
is left even for a fly to feed upon, when an animal either 
dies a natural death, or is killed. I never pitied poor 
creatures more than these utterly destitute savages ; their 
method of returning thanks is by holding your hand and 
affecting to spit upon it ; which operation they do not 
actually perform, as I have seen stated in works upon 
the White JSTile. Their domestic arrangements are pecu- 
liar. Polygamy is of course allowed, as in all other hot 
climates and savage countries ; but when a man becomes 
too old to pay sufficient attention to his numerous young 
wives, the eldest son takes the place of his father and 
becomes his substitute. To every herd of cattle there is 
a sacred bull, which is supposed to exert an influence over 
the prosperity of the flocks ; his horns are ornamented 
with tufts of feathers, and frequently with small bells, 



Chap. I.J " LUXURIES" OF THE COUNTRY. 49 

and he invariably leads the great herd to pasture. On 
starting in the early morning from the cattle kraal the 
natives address the bull, telling him " to watch over the 
herd ; to keep the cows from straying ; and to lead them 
to the sweetest pastures, so that they shall give abundance 
of milk/' &c. 

Jan. 21st. — Last night a sudden squall carried away 
Koorshid Aga's mast by the deck, leaving him a complete 
wreck. The weather to-day is dull, oppressive, and dead 




THE BOYS WHO IIA VH B3GICIBD. 



calm. As usual, endless marshes, and mosquitoes. 1 
never either saw or heard of so disgusting a country as 
that bordering the White Nile from Khartoum to this 
point. Course S.E. as nearly as I can judge, but the 
endless windings, and the absence of any mark as a point, 
make it difficult to give an accurate course — the river 
about a hundred yards in width of clear water ; alive 
with floating vegetation, with a current of about two miles 
per hour. 



50 ABOUKOOKA. [Chap. I. 

Jan. 22d. — The luxuries of the country as usual — 
malaria, marshes, mosquitoes, misery ; far as the eye can 
reach, vast treeless marshes perfectly lifeless. At times 
progressing slowly by towing, the men struggling through 
the water with the rope ; at other times by running round 
the boat in a circle, pulling with their hands at the grass, 
which thus acts like the cogs of a wheel to move us 
gradually forward. One of my horses, "Filfil," out of 
pure amusement kicks at the men as they pass, and 
having succeeded several times in kicking them into the 
river, he perseveres in the fun, I believe for lack of other 
employment. 

Hippopotami are heard snorting in the high reeds both 
day and night, but we see very few. The black women 
on board are daily quarrelling together and fighting like 
bull-dogs ; little Gaddum Her is a regular black toy 
terrier, rather old, wonderfully strong, very short, but 
making up in spirit for what she lacks in stature ; she is 
the quintessence of vice, being ready for a stand-up fight 
at the shortest notice. On one occasion she fought with 
her antagonist until both fell down the hold, smashing all 
my water jars ; on another day they both fell into the 
river. The ennui of this wretched voyage appears to try 
the temper of both man and beast ; the horses, donkeys, 
and camels are constantly fighting and biting at all 
around. 

Jan. 23d.' — At 8 A.M. arrived at Aboukooka, the esta- 
blishment of a French trader. It is impossible to describe 
the misery of the land ; in the midst of the vast expanse 
of marsh is a little plot of dry ground about thirty-five 
yards square, and within thirty yards of the river, but to 
be reached only by wading through the swamp. The 
establishment consisted of about a dozen straw huts, 
occupied by a wretched fever-stricken set of people ; the 
vakeel, and others employed, came to the boats to beg for 
corn. I stopped for ten minutes at the charming water- 
ing-place Aboukooka to obtain the news of the country. 
The current at this point is as usual very strong, being 
upwards of two and a half miles per hour ; the river is 



Chap. V. AUSTRIAN MISSION STATION. 51 

quite bank-full although not actually flooding, the wind- 
ings endless ; one moment our course is due north, then 
east, then again north, and as suddenly due south ; in 
fact, we face every point of the compass within an hour. 
Frequently the noggurs that are far in the rear appear 
in advance ; it is a heartbreaking river without a single 
redeeming point ; I do not wonder at the failure of all 
expeditions in this wretched country. There is a breeze 
to-day, thus the oppressive heat and stagnated marsh 
atmosphere is relieved. I have always remarked that 
when the sky is clouded we suffer more from, heat and 
oppression than when the day is clear ; there is a weight 
in the atmosphere that would, be interesting if tested by 
the barometer. 

The water is excessively bad throughout the White Nile, 
especially between the Shillook and the Kytch tribes ; that 
of the Bahr G-azal is even worse. The reis Diabb tells me 
that the north wind always fails between the Nuehr and 
the upper portion of the Kytch. I could not believe that 
so miserable a country existed as the whole of this land. 
There is no game to be seen at this season, few birds, and 
not even crocodiles show themselves ; all the water-animals 
are hidden in the high grass ; thus there is absolutely 
nothing living to be seen, but day after day is passed in 
winding slowly through the labyrinth of endless marsh, 
through clouds of mosquitoes. 

At 4.20 P.m. arrived at the Austrian mission- station of 
St. Croix, and I delivered a letter to the chief of the 
establishment, Herr Morlang. 

Jan. 24dh. — Took observations of the sun, making lati- 
tude 6° 39'. 

The mission-station consists of about twenty grass huts 
on a patch of dry ground close to the river. The church is a 
small hut, but neatly arranged. Herr Morlang acknow- 
ledged, with great feeling, that the mission was absolutely 
useless among such savages ; that he had worked with 
much zeal for many years, but that the natives were 
utterly impracticable. They were far below the brutes, as 
the latter show signs of affection to those who are kind 

E2 



52 SALE OF THE MISSION-HOUSE. [Chap. I. 

to -them ; while the natives, on the contrary, are utterly 
obtuse to all feelings of gratitude. He described the people 
as lying and deceitful to a superlative degree ; the more 
they receive the more they desire, but in return they will 
do nothing. 

Twenty or thirty of these disgusting, ash-smeared, stark 
naked brutes, armed with clubs of hard wood brought to a 
point, were lying idly about the station. The mission 
having given up the White Nile as a total failure, Herr 
Morlang sold the whole village and mission- station to 
Koorshid Aga this morning for 3,000 piastres, £30 ! I 
purchased a horse of the missionaries for 1,000 piastres, 
which I christened "Priest," as coming from the mission ; 
he is a good-looking animal, and has been used to the gun, 
as the unfortunate Baron Harnier rode him buffalo-hunt- 
ing. This good sportsman was a Prussian nobleman, who, 
with two European attendants, had for some time amused 
himself by collecting objects of natural history and shoot- 
ing in this neighbourhood. Both his Europeans suc- 
cumbed to marsh fever. The end of Baron Harnier was 
exceedingly tragic. Having wounded a buffalo, the animal 
charged a native attendant and threw him to the ground ; 
Baron Harnier was unloaded, and with great courage he 
attacked the buffalo with the butt-end of his rifle to rescue 
the man then beneath the animal's horns. The buffalo 
left the man and turned upon his new assailant. The 
native, far from assisting his master, who had thus jeopar- 
dized his life to save him, fled from the spot. The unfor- 
tunate baron was found by the missionaries trampled and 
gored into an undistinguishable mass ; and the dead body 
of the buffalo was found at a short distance, the animal 
having been mortally wounded. I went to see the grave of 
this brave Prussian, who had thus sacrificed so noble a life 
for so worthless an object as a cowardly native. It had 
been well cared for by the kind hands of the missionaries, 
and was protected by thorn bushes laid around it, but I 
fear it will be neglected now that the mission has fallen 
into unholy hands. It is a pitiable sight to witness the 
self-sacrifice that many noble men have made in these 



Chap. L] TUMULI OF ASHES. 53 

frightful countries without any good results. Near to the 
grave of Baron Harnier are those of several members of 
the mission, who have left their bones in this horrid land, 
while not one convert has been made from the mission of 
St. Croix. 

The river divides into two branches, about five miles 
above this station, forming an island. Upon this is a fish- 
ing-station of the natives ; the native name of the spot is 
Pomone. The country is swampy and scantily covered 
with bushes and small trees, but no actual timber. As 
usual, the entire country is dead flat ; it abounds with 
elephants a few miles inland. Herr Morlang describes 
the whole of the White Nile traders as a mere colony of 
robbers, who pillage and shoot the natives at discretion. 

On the opposite side of the river there is a large 
neglected garden, belonging to the mission. Although the 
soil is extremely rich, neither grapes nor pomegranate will 
succeed; they bear fruit, but of a very acrid flavour. 
Dates blossom, but will not fruit. 

Jan. 25th. — Started at 7 a.m. Course S.E. 

Jan. 26th. — The Bohr tribe on the east bank. No wind. 
The current nearly three miles per hour. The river about 
a' hundred and twenty yards wide in clear water. Marshes 
and flats, as usual. Thermometer throughout the journey, 
at 6 A.M., 68° Fahr., and at noon 86° to 93° Fahr. 

Jan. 27th. — One day is a repetition of the preceding. 

Jan. 28th. — Passed two bivouacs of the Aliab tribe, 
with great herds of cattle on the west bank. The natives 
appeared to be friendly, dancing and gesticulating as the 
boats passed. The White Nile tribe not only milk their 
cows, but they bleed their cattle periodically, and boil the 
blood for food. Driving a lance into a vein in the neck, 
they bleed the animal copiously, which operation is re- 
peated about once a month. 

Jan. 29th. — Passed a multitude of cattle and natives on 
a spot on the right bank, in clouds of smoke as a" chasse 
des moustiques." They make tumuli of dung, which are 
constantly on fire, fresh fuel being continually added, to 
drive away the mosquitoes. Around these heaps the cattle 



54 THE SHIR TRIBE. [Chap. I. 

crowd in hundreds, living with the natives in the smoke. 
By degrees the heaps of ashes become about eight feet 
high ; they are then used as sleeping-places and watch- 
stations by the natives, who, rubbing themselves all over 
with the ashes, have a ghastly and devilish appearance 
that is indescribable. The country is covered with old 
tumuli formed in this manner. A camp may contain 
twenty or thirty such, in addition to fresh heaps that are 
constantly burning. Fires of cow-dung are also made on 
the levelled tops of the old heaps, and bundles of green 
canes, about sixteen feet high, are planted on the summit ; 
these wave in the breeze like a plume of ostrich feathers, 
and give shade to the people during the heat of the day. 

Jan. 30th. — Arrived at the "Shir" tribe. The men are, 
as usual in these countries, armed with well-made ebony 
clubs, two lances, a bow (always strung), and a bundle of 
arrows ; their hands are completely full of weapons ; and 
they carry a neatly-made miniature stool slung upon their 
backs, in addition to an immense pipe. Thus a man carries 
all that he most values about his person. The females 
in this tribe are not absolutely naked ; like those of the 
Kytch, they wear small lappets of tanned leather as broad 
as the hand ; at the back of the belt, which supports this 
apron, is a tail which reaches to the lower portions of the 
thighs ; this tail is formed of finely-cut strips of leather, 
and the costume has doubtless been the foundation for the 
report I had received from the Arabs, "that a tribe in 
Central Africa had tails like horses." The women carry 
their children very conveniently in a skin slung from their 
shoulders across the back, and secured by a thong round 
the waist ; in this the young savage sits delightfully. The 
huts throughout all tribes are circular, with entrances 
so low that the natives creep both in and out upon 
their hands and knees. The men wear tufts of cock's 
feathers on the crown of the head ; and their favourite 
attitude, when standing, is on one leg while leaning on a 
spear, the foot of the raised leg resting on the inside of the 
other knee. Their arrows are about three feet long, without 
feathers, and pointed with hard wood instead of iron, the 



Chap. I.] THE LOTUS HARVEST. 55 

metal being scarce among the Shir tribe. The most valu- 
able article of barter for this tribe is the iron hoe generally 
used among the White Nile negroes. In form it is pre- 
cisely similar to the "ace of spades." The finery most 
prized by the women are polished iron anklets, which they 
wear in such numbers that they reach nearly half-way up 
the calf of the leg ; the tinkling of these rings is consi- 
dered to be very enticing, but the sound reminds one of 
the clanking of convicts' fetters. 

All the tribes of the White Nile have their harvest of 
the lotus seed. There are two species of water-lily — 
the large white flower, and a small variety. The seed-pod 
of the white lotus is like an unblown artichoke, containing 
a number of light red grains equal in size to mustard-seed, 
but shaped like those of the poppy, and similar to them in 
flavour, being sweet and nutty. The ripe pods are col- 
lected and strung upon sharp-pointed reeds about four feet 
in length. When thus threaded they are formed into large 
bundles, and carried from the river to the villages, where 
they are dried in the sun, and stored for use. The seed is 
ground into flour, and made into a kind of porridge. The 
women of the Shir tribe are very clever at manufacturing 
baskets and mats from the leaf of the dome palm. They 
also make girdles and necklaces of minute pieces of river 
mussel shells threaded upon the hair of the giraffe's tail. 
This is a work of great time, and the effect is about equal 
to a string of mother-of-pearl buttons. 

Jan. 31.s£. — At 1.15 p.m. sighted G-ebel Lardo, bearing 
S. 30° west. This is the first mountain we have seen, and 
we are at last near our destination, Gondokoro. I ob- 
served to-day a common sand-piper sitting on the head of 
a hippopotamus ; when he disappeared under water the 
bird skimmed over the surface, hovering near the spot 
until the animal reappeared, when he again settled. 

Feb. 1st — The character of the river has changed. The 
marshes have given place to dry ground; the banks are 
about four feet above the water-level, and well wooded ; 
the country having the appearance of an orchard, and 
being thickly populated. The natives thronged to the 



56 ARRIVAL AT GONDOKORO. [Chap. I. 

boats, being astonished at the camels. At one village 
during the voyage the natives examined, the donkeys with 
great curiosity, thinking that they were the oxen of our 
country, and that we were bringing them to exchange for 
ivory. 

Feb. 2d. — The mountain Lardo is about twelve miles 
west of the river. At daybreak we sighted the mountains 
near Gondokoro, bearing due south. As yet I have seen 
no symptoms of hostility in this country. I cannot help 
thinking that the conduct of the natives depends much 
upon that of the traveller. Arrived at Gondokoro. 

By astronomical observation I determined the latitude 
4° 55' N. Longitude 31° 46' E. 

Gondokoro is a great improvement ' upon the inter- 
minable marshes ; the soil is firm and raised about twenty 
feet above the river level. Distant mountains relieve the 
eye accustomed to the dreary flats of the White Nile ; and 
evergreen trees scattered over the face of the landscape, 
with neat little native villages beneath their shade, form a 
most inviting landing-place after a long and tedious voyage. 
This spot was formerly a mission-station. There remain to 
this day the ruins of the brick establishment and church, 
and the wreck of what was once a garden ; groves of citron 
and lime-trees still exist, the only signs that an attempt at 
civilization has been made — " seed cast upon the way- 
side." There is no town. Gondokoro is merely a station 
of the ivory traders, occupied for about two months during 
the year, after which time it is deserted, when the annual 
boats return to Khartoum and the remaining expeditions 
depart for the interior. A few miserable grass huts are 
all that dignify the spot with a name. The climate is 
unhealthy and hot. The thermometer from 90° to 95° 
Fahr. at noon in the shade. 

I landed the animals from the boats in excellent con- 
dition, all rejoicing in the freedom of open pasturage. 



CHAPTER II. 

BAD RECEPTION AT GONDOKORO. 

ALL were thankful that the river voyage was concluded; 
the tedium of the White Nile will have been partici- 
pated by the reader, upon whom I have inflicted the journal, 
as no other method of description could possibly convey 
an idea of the general desolation. 

Having landed all my stores, and housed my corn in 
some granaries belonging to Koorshid Aga, I took a 
receipt from him for the quantity, and gave him an order 
to deliver one-half from my depot to Speke and Grant, 
should they arrive at Gondokoro during my absence in 
the interior. I was under an apprehension that they 
might arrive by some route without my knowledge, while 
I should be penetrating south. 

There were a great number of men at Gondokoro be- 
longing to the various traders, who looked upon me with 
the greatest suspicion ; they could not believe that simple 
travelling was my object, and they were shortly convinced 
that I was intent upon espionage in their nefarious ivory 
business and slave-hunting. 

In conversing with the traders, and assuring them that 
my object was entirely confined to a search for the Nile 
sources, and an inquiry for Speke and Grant, I heard a 
curious report that had been brought down by the natives 
from the interior, that at some great distance to the south 
there were vwo white men who had been for a long time 
prisoners of a sultan ; and that these men had wonderful 
fireworks ; that both had been very ill, and that one had died. 

It was in vain that I endeavoured to obtain some 
further clue to this exciting report. There was a rumour 
that some native had a piece of wood with marks upon 
it that had belonged to the white men ; but upon inquiry 



58 THE BARI TRIBE. [Chap. II. 

I found that this account was only a report given by some 
distant tribe. Nevertheless, I attached great importance 
to the rumour, as there was no white man south of Gon- 
dokoro engaged in the ivory trade ; therefore there was a 
strong probability that the report had some connexion 
with the existence of Speke and Grant. I had heard, 
when at Khartoum, that the most advanced trading 
station was about fifteen days' march from Gondokoro, 
and my plan of operations had always projected a direct 
advance to that station, where I had intended to leave all 
my heavy baggage in depot, and to proceed from thence as 
a "point de depart" to the south. I now understood that 
the party were expected to arrive at Gondokoro from that 
station with ivory in a few days, and I determined to wait 
for their arrival, and to return with them in company. 
Their ivory porters returning, might carry my baggage, 
and thus save the backs of my transport animals. 

I accordingly amused myself at Gondokoro, exercising 
my horses in riding about the neighbourhood, and study- 
ing the place and people. 

The native dwellings are the perfection of cleanliness ; 
the domicile of each family is surrounded by a hedge of 
the impenetrable euphorbia, and the interior of the in- 
closure generally consists of a yard neatly plastered with 
a cement of ashes, cow-dung, and sand. Upon this cleanly- 
swept surface are one or more huts surrounded by granaries 
of neat wicker-work, thatched, resting upon raised platforms. 
The huts have projecting roofs in order to afford a shade, 
and the entrance is usually about two feet high. 

When a member of the family dies he is buried in the 
yard ; a few ox-horns and skulls are suspended on a pole 
above the spot, while the top of the pole is ornamented 
with a bunch of cock's feathers. Every man carries his 
weapons, pipe, and stool, the whole (except the stool) 
being held between his legs when standing. These 
natives of Gondokoro are the Bari : the men are well 
grown, the women are not prepossessing, but the negro 
type of thick lips and flat nose is wanting ; their features 
are good, and the woolly hair alone denotes the trace of 






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Chap. II.] EFFECTS OF POISONED ARROWS. 59 

negro blood. They are tattooed upon the stomach, sides, 
and back, so closely, that it has the appearance of a broad 
belt of fish-scales, especially when they are rubbed with 
red ochre, which is the prevailing fashion. This pigment 
is made of a peculiar clay, rich in oxide of iron, which, 
when burnt, is reduced to powder, and then formed into 
lumps like pieces of soap ; both sexes anoint themselves 
with this ochre, formed into a paste by the admixture 
of grease, giving themselves the appearance of new red 
bricks. The only hair upon their persons is a small tuft 
upon the crown of the head, in which they stick one or 
more feathers. The women are generally free from hair, 
their heads being shaved. They wear a neat little lappet, 
about six inches long, of beads, or of small iron rings, 
worked like a coat of mail, in lieu of a fig-leaf, and the 
usual tail of fine shreds of leather or twine, spun from 
indigenous cotton, pendant behind. Both the lappet and 
tail are fastened on a belt which is worn round the loins, 
like those in the Shir tribe ; thus the toilette is completed 
at once. It would be highly useful, could they only wag 
their tails to whisk off the flies which are torments in 
this country. 

The cattle are very small ; the goats and sheep are quite 
Lilliputian, but they generally give three at a birth, and 
thus multiply quickly. The people of the country were 
formerly friendly, but the Khartoumers pillage and murder 
them at discretion in all directions ; thus, in revenge, they 
will shoot a poisoned arrow at a stranger unless he is 
powerfully escorted. The effect of the poison used for 
the arrow-heads is very extraordinary. A man came to 
me for medical aid ; five months ago he had been wounded 
by a poisoned arrow in the leg, below the calf, and the 
entire foot had been eaten away by the action of the 
poison. The bone rotted through just above the ankle, 
and the foot dropped off. The most violent poison is the 
produce of the root of a tree, whose milky juice yields a 
resin that is smeared upon the arrow. It is brought from 
a great distance, from some country far west of Gon- 
dokoro. The juice of the species of euphorbia, common 



60 HOSTILITY OF THE BARI TRIBE. [Chap. II. 

in these countries, is also used for poisoning arrows. 
Boiled to the consistence of tar, it is then smeared upon 
the blade. The action of the poison is to corrode the 
flesh, which loses its fibre, and drops away like jelly, after 
severe inflammation and swelling. The arrows are barbed 
with diabolical ingenuity; some are arranged with poisoned 
heads that fit into sockets ; these detach from the arrow 
on an attempt to withdraw them ; thus the barbed blade, 
thickly smeared with poison, remains in the wound, and 
before it can be cut out the poison is absorbed by the 
system. Fortunately the natives are bad archers. The 
bows are invariably made of the male bamboo, and are 
kept perpetually strung; they are exceedingly stiff, but 
not very elastic, and the arrows are devoid of feathers, 
being simple reeds or other light wood, about three feet 
long, and slightly knobbed at the base as a hold for the 
finger and thumb ; the string is never drawn with the two 
forefingers, as in most countries, but is simply pulled by 
holding the arrow between the middle joint of the fore- 
finger and the thumb. A stiff bow drawn in this manner 
has very little power ; accordingly the extreme range 
seldom exceeds a hundred and ten yards. 

The Bari tribe are very hostile, and are considered to be 
about the worst of the White Nile. They have been so 
often defeated by the traders' parties in the immediate 
neighbourhood of Gondokoro, that they are on their best 
behaviour, while within half a mile of the station ; but it 
is not at all uncommon to be asked for beads as a tax for 
the right of sitting under a shady tree, or for passing 
through the country. The traders' people, in order to 
terrify them into submission, were in the habit of binding 
them, hands and feet, and carrying them to the edge of a 
cliff about thirty feet high, a little beyond the ruins of the 
old mission-house : beneath this cliff the river boils in a 
deep eddy; into this watery grave the victims were re- 
morselessly hurled as food for crocodiles. It appeared 
that this punishment was dreaded by the natives more 
than the bullet or rope, and it was accordingly adopted by 
the trading parties. 



Chap. II.] ATROCITIES OF THE TRADING PARTIES. 6 I 

Upon my arrival at Gondokoro I was looked upon 
by all these parties as a spy sent by the British Govern- 
ment. Whenever I approached the encampments of the 
various traders, I heard, the clanking of fetters before I 
reached the station, as the slaves were being quickly driven 
into hiding-places to avoid inspection. They were chained 
by two rings secured round the ankles, and connected by 
three or four links. One of these traders was a Copt, the 
father of the American Consul at Khartoum ; and, to my 
surprise, I saw the vessels full of brigands arrive at Gon- 
dokoro, with the American flag flying at the mast-head. 

Gondokoro was a perfect hell. It is utterly ignored 
by the Egyptian authorities, although well known to be 
a colony of cut-throats. Nothing would be easier than 
to send a few officers and two hundred men from Khar- 
toum to form a military government, and thus impede 
the slave-trade ; but a bribe from the traders to the 
authorities is sufficient to insure an uninterrupted asylum 
for any amount of villany. The camps were full of 
slaves, and the Bari natives assured me that there were 
large depots of slaves in the interior belonging to the 
traders that would be marched to Gondokoro for shipment 
to the Soudan a few hours after my departure. I was 
the great stumbling-block to the trade, and my presence 
at Gondokoro was considered as an unwarrantable in- 
trusion upon a locality sacred to slavery and iniquity. 
There were about six hundred of the traders' people at 
Gondokoro, whose time was passed in drinking, quarrel- 
ling, and ill-treating the slaves. The greater number 
were in a oonstant state of intoxication, and when in such 
a state, it was their invariable custom to fire off their 
guns in the first direction prompted by their drunken in- 
stincts ; thus, from morning till night, guns were popping 
in all quarters, and the bullets humming through the 
air sometimes close to our ears, and on more than one 
occasion they struck up the dust at my feet. Nothing 
was more probable than a ball through the head by 
accident, which might have had the beneficial effect of 
ridding the traders from a spy. A boy was sitting upon 



62 THIS FIRST MUTINY, [Chap. II. 

the gunwale of one of the boats, when a bullet suddenly 
struck him in the head, shattering the skull to atoms. 
No one had done it. The body fell into the water, and 
the fragments of the skull were scattered on the deck. 

After a few days' detention at Gondokoro, I saw un- 
mistakeable signs of discontent among my men, who had 
evidently been tampered with by the different traders' 
parties. One evening several of the most disaffected 
came to me with a complaint that they had not enough 
meat, and that they must be allowed to make a razzia 
upon the cattle of the natives to procure some oxen. 
This demand being of course refused, they retired, mutter- 
ing in an insolent manner their determination of stealing 
cattle with or without my permission. I said nothing 
at the time, but early on the following morning I ordered 
the drum to beat, and the men to fall in. I made them 
a short address, reminding them of the agreement made 
at Khartoum to follow me faithfully, and of the compact 
that had been entered into, that they were neither to 
indulge in slave-hunting nor in cattle-stealing. The only 
effect of my address was a great outbreak of insolence 
on the part of the ringleader of the previous evening. 
This fellow, named Eesur, was an Arab, and his imper- 
tinence was so violent, that I immediately ordered him 
twenty-five lashes, as an example to the others. 

Upon the vakeel (Saati) advancing to seize him, there 
was *a general mutiny. Many of the men threw down 
their guns and seized sticks, and rushed to the rescue 
of their tall ringleader. Saati was a little man, and was 
perfectly helpless. Here was an escort! these were the 
men upon whom I was to depend in hours of difficulty 
and danger on an expedition in unknown regions ; these 
were the fellows that I had considered to be reduced 
" from wolves to lambs ! " 

I was determined not to be done, and to insist upon 
the punishment of the ringleader. I accordingly went 
towards him with the intention of seizing him ; but he, 
being backed by upwards of forty men, had the imper- 
tinence to attack me, rushing forward with a fury that 



Chap. II.] DECISION OF MY WIFE. 63 

was ridiculous. To stop his blow, and to knock him 
into the middle of the crowd, was not difficult ; and after 
a rapid repetition of the dose, I disabled him, and seizing 
him by the throat, I called to my vakeel Saati for a rope 
to bind him, but in an instant I had a crowd of men 
upon me to rescue their leader. How the affair would 
have ended I cannot say; but as the scene lay within 
ten yards of my boat, my wife, who was ill with fever 
in the cabin, witnessed the whole affray, and seeing 
me surrounded, she rushed out, and in a few moments 
she was in the middle of the crowd, who at that time 
were endeavouring to rescue my prisoner. Her sudden 
appearance had a curious effect, and calling upon several 
of the least mutinous to assist, she very pluckily made 
her way up to me. Seizing the opportunity of an in- 
decision that was for the moment evinced by the crowd, 
I shouted to the drummer boy to beat the drum. In an 
instant the drum beat, and at the top of my voice I 
ordered the men to " fall in." It is curious how mechani- 
cally an order is obeyed if given at the right moment, 
even in the midst of mutiny. Two-thirds of the men fell 
in, and formed in line, while the remainder retreated 
with the ringleader, Eesur, whom they led away, declaring 
that he was badly hurt. The affair ended in my insisting 
upon all forming in line, and upon the ringleader being 
brought forward. In this critical moment Mrs. Baker, with 
great tact, came forward and implored me to forgive him 
if he kissed my hand and begged for pardon. This com- 
promise completely won the men, who, although a few 
minutes before in open mutiny, now called upon their ring- 
leader Eesur to apologise, and that all would be right. I 
made them rather a bitter speech, and dismissed them. 

From that moment I knew that my expedition was 
fated. This outbreak was an example of what was to 
follow. Previous to leaving Khartoum I had felt con- 
vinced that I could not succeed with such villains for 
escort as these Khartoumers : thus I had applied to the 
Egyptian authorities for a few troops, but had been re- 
fused. I was now in an awkward position. All my men 



64 ARRIVAL OF SPEKE AND GRANT. [Chap. II. 

had received five months' wages in advance, according to 
the custom of the White Nile ; thus I had no control over 
them. There were no Egyptian authorities in Gondokoro ; 
it was a nest of robbers ; and my men had just exhibited 
so pleasantly their attachment to me, and their fidelity. 
There was no European beyond Gondokoro, thus I should 
be the only white man among this colony of wolves ; and 
I had in perspective a difficult and uncertain path, where 
the only chance of success lay in the complete discipline 
of my escort, and the perfect organization of the expedi- 
tion. After the scene just enacted I felt sure that my 
escort would give me more cause for anxiety than the 
acknowledged hostility of the natives. 

I made arrangements with a Circassian trader, Koorshid 
Aga, for the purchase of a few oxen, and a fat beast was 
immediately slaughtered for the men. They were shortly 
in the best humour, feasting upon masses of flesh cut in 
strips and laid for a few minutes upon the embers, while 
the regular meal was being prepared. They were now 
almost affectionate, vowing that they would follow me to 
the end of the world ; while the late ringleader, in spite of 
his countenance being rather painted in the late row, de- 
clared that no man would be so true as himself, and that 
every " arrow should pass through him before it should 
reach me " in the event of a conflict with the natives. A 
very slight knowledge of human nature was required to 
foresee the future with such an escort : — if love and duty 
were dependent upon full bellies, mutiny and disorder 
would appear with hard fare. However, by having parade 
every morning at a certain hour, I endeavoured to establish 
a degree of regularity. I had been waiting at Gondokoro 
twelve days, expecting the arrival of Debono's party from 
the south, with whom I wished to return. Suddenly, on 
the 15th February, I heard the rattle of musketry at a 
great distance, and a dropping fire from the south. To 
give an idea of the moment I must extract verbatim from 
my journal as written at the time. 

" Guns firing in the distance ; Debono's ivory porters 
arriving, for whom I have waited. My men rushed madly 



Chap. II.] GLADNESS AT MEETING THEM. 65 

to my boat, with, the report that two white men were with 
them who had come from the sea ! Could they be Speke 
and Grant ? Off I ran, and soon met them in reality. 
Hurrah for old England ! they had come from the Victoria 
N'yanza, from which the Kile springs. . . . The mystery of 
ages solved. With my pleasure of meeting them is the 
one disappointment, that I had not met them farther on the 
road in my search for them ; however, the satisfaction is, 
that my previous arrangements had been such as would 
have insured my finding them had they been in a fix. . . . 
My projected route would have brought me vis-a-vis with 
them, as they had come from the lake by the course I had 
proposed to take. . . . All my men perfectly mad with 
excitement : firing salutes as usual with ball cartridge, 
they shot one of my donkeys ; a melancholy sacrifice 
as an offering at the completion of this geographical 
discovery." 

When I first met them they were walking along the 
bank of the river towards my boats. At a distance of 
about a hundred yards I recognised my old friend Speke, 
and with a heart beating with joy I took off my cap and 
gave a welcome hurrah ! as I ran towards him. Tor the 
moment he did not recognise me; ten years' growth of 
beard and moustache had worked a change ; and as I was 
totally unexpected, my sudden appearance in the centre of 
Africa appeared to him incredible. I hardly required 
an introduction to his companion, as we felt already 
acqiiainted, and after the transports of this happy meeting 
we walked together to my diahbiah ; my men surrounding 
us with smoke and noise by keeping up an unremitting fire 
of musketry the whole way. We were shortly seated on 
deck under the awning, and such rough fare as could be 
hastily prepared was set before these two ragged, careworn 
specimens of African travel, whom I looked upon with 
feelings of pride as my own countrymen. As a good ship 
arrives in harbour, battered and torn by a long and stormy 
voyage, yet sound in her frame and seaworthy to the last, 
so both these gallant travellers arrived at Gondokoro. 
Speke appeared the more worn of the two ; he was exces- 

F 



66 THEIR DISCOVERIES. [C^p. IL 

sively lean, but in reality he was in good tough condition ; 
he had walked the whole way from Zanzibar, never 
having once ridden during that wearying march. Grant 
was in honourable rags; his bare knees projecting through 
the remnants of trowsers that were an exhibition of rouarh 
industry in tailor's work. He was looking tired and 
feverish, but both men had a fire in the eye that showed 
the spirit that had led them through. 

They wished to leave Gondokoro as soon as possible, 
en route for England, but delayed their departure until the 
moon should be in a position for an observation for 
determining the longitude. My boats were fortunately 
engaged by me for five months, thus Speke and Grant 
could take charge of them to Khartoum. 

At the first blush on meeting them I had considered 
my expedition as terminated by having met them, and 
by their having accomplished the discovery of the Nile 
source ; but upon my congratulating them with all my 
heart, upon the honour they had so nobly earned, Speke 
and Grant with characteristic candour and generosity gave 
me a map of their route, showing that they had been 
unable to complete the actual exploration of the Nile, and 
that a most important portion still remained to be deter- 
mined. It appeared that in N. lat. 2° 17', they had 
crossed the Nile, which they had tracked from the Victoria 
Lake ; but the river, which from its exit from that lake 
had a northern course, turned suddenly to the west from 
Karuma Falls (the point at which they crossed it at lat. 
2° 17'). They did not see the Nile again until they 
arrived in N. lat. 3° 32', which was then flowing from the 
W.S.W. The natives and the King of Unyoro (Kamrasi) 
had assured them that the Nile from the Victoria N'yanza, 
which they had crossed at Karuma, flowed westward for 
several days' journey, and at length fell into a large lake 
called the Luta N'zige ; that this lake came from the 
south, and that the Nile on entering the northern 
extremity almost immediately made its exit, and as a 
navigable river continued its course to the north, through 
the Koshi and Madi countries. Both Speke and Grant 



Chap. II.] ANOTHER LAKE REPORTED TO EXIST. &J 

attached great importance to this lake Luta N'zige, and 
the former was much annoyed that it had been impossible 
for them to carry out the exploration. He foresaw that 
stay-at-home geographers, who, with a comfortable arm- 
chair to sit in, travel so easily with their fingers on a map, 
would ask him why he had not gone from such a place to 
such a place ? why he had not followed the Nile to the 
Luta N'zige lake, and from the lake to Gondokoro ? As it 
happened, it was impossible for. Speke and Grant to follow 
the Nile from Karuma : — the tribes were fighting with 
Kamrasi, and no strangers could have got through the 
country. Accordingly they procured their information 
most carefully, completed their, map, and laid down the 
reported lake in its supposed position, showing the Nile as 
both influent and effluent precisely as had been explained 
by the natives. 

Speke expressed his conviction that the Luta N'zige 
must be a second source of the Nile, and that geographers 
would be dissatisfied that he had not explored it. To me 
this was most gratifying, I had been much disheartened 
at the idea that the great work was accomplished, and that 
nothing remained for exploration ; I even said to Speke, 
" Does not one leaf of the laurel remain for me V I now 
heard that the field was not only open, but that an addi- 
tional interest was given to the exploration by the proof 
that the Nile flowed out of one great lake, the Victoria, 
but that it evidently must derive an additional supply 
from an unknown lake as it entered it at the northern ex- 
tremity, while the body of the lake came from the south. 
The fact of a great body of water such as the Luta N'zige 
extending in a direct line from south to north, while the 
general system of drainage of the Nile was from the same 
direction, showed most conclusively, that the Luta N'zige, 
if it existed in the form assumed, must have an important 
position in the basin of the Nile. 

My expedition had naturally been rather costly, and 
being in excellent order it would have been heartbreaking 
to have returned fruitlessly. I therefore arranged imme- 
diately for my departure, and Speke most kindly wrote in 

F2 



68 SPEKE'S INSTRUCTIONS. [Chap. II. 

my journal such instructions as might be useful. I there- 
fore copy them verbatim : — 

" Before you leave this be sure you engage two men, 
one. speaking the Eari or Madi language, and one speaking 
Kinyoro, to be your interpreters through the whole 
journey, for there are only two distinct families of lan- 
guages in the country, though of course some dialectic 
differences, which can be easily overcome by anybody who 
knows the family language. . . . Now, as you are bent on 
first going to visit Kamrasi M'Kamma, or King of Unyoro, 
and then to see as much of the western countries bordering 
on the little Luta N'zige, or 'dead loeust' lake, as possible, 
go in company with 'the ivory hunters across the Asua 
river to Apuddo eight marches, and look for game to the 
east of that village. Two marches further on will bring 
you to Panyoro, where there are antelopes in great quan- 
tity ; and in one march more the Turks' farthest outpost, 
Faloro, will be reached, where you had better form a depot, 
and make a flying trip across the White Mle to Koshi for 
the purpose of inquiring what tribes live to west and 
south of it, especially of the Wallegga ; how the river 
comes from the south, and where it is joined by the little 
Luta N'zige. Inquire also after the country of Chopi, and 
what difficulties or otherwise you would have to overcome 
if you followed up the left bank of the White river to 
Kamrasi's ; because, if found easy, It would, be far nearer 
and better to reach Kamrasi that way than going through 
the desert jungles of Ukidi, as we went. This is the way 
I should certainly go myself, but if you do not like the 
look of it, preserve your information well; and after 
returning to Faloro, make Koki per Chougi in two 
marches, and tell old Chougi you wish to visit his 
M'Kamma Kamrasi, for Chougi was appointed Governor- 
general of that place by Kamrasi to watch the Wakidi, 
who live between his residence and Chopi, which is the 
next country you will reach after passing through the 
jungles of Ukidi and crossing the Nile below Karuma 
Falls. Arrived at Chopi, inquire for the residence of the 
Katikiro or commander-in-chief, who will show you great 



Chap. II.] SPEKE'S INSTRUCTIONS. 69 

respect, give you cows and ponibe\ and send messengers 
on to Kamrasi to acquaint him of your intention to visit 
him. This is the richest part of Kamrasi's possessions, 
and "by a little inquiry you will learn much about the 
lake. Kamrasi's brother Rionga lives on a river island 
within one march of this. They are deadly enemies and 
always fighting, so if you made a mistake and went to 
Rionga' s first, as the Turks would wish you to do, all 
travelling in Unyoro would be cut off. Tell the Katikiro 
all your plans frankly, and remark earnestly upon my 
great displeasure at Kamrasi's having detained me so long 
in his country without deigning to see me, else he may be 
assured no other white man will ever take the trouble to 
see him. We came down the river in boats from Kam- 
rasi's to Chopi, but the boatmen gave much trouble, 
therefore it would be better for you to go overland. 
Kamrasi will most likely send Kidgwiga, an excellent 
officer, to escort you to his palace, but if he does not, ask 
after him ; you could not have a better man. 

"Arrived at Kamrasi's, insist upon seeing all his fat 
wives and brothers. Find out all you can about his 
pedigree, and ask for leave to follow up the lake from its 
junction with the Nile to Utumbi, and then crossing to 
its northern bank follow it down to Ullegga and Koshi. 
If you are so fortunate as to reach Utumbi, and don't 
wish to go farther south, inquire well about Ruanda, the 
M'Fumbiro mountains, if there is any copper in Ruanda, 
and whether or not the people of those countries receive 
Simbi (the cowrie shell) or any other articles of mer- 
chandise from the west coast, guarding well that no 
confusion is made with the trade of Karagwe, for Ruma- 
nika sends men to Utumbi ivory-hunting continually. 

" Remember well that the Wahuma are most likely 
Gallas ; this question is most interesting, and the more 
you can gather of their history, since they crossed the 
White Nile, the better. Formerly Unyoro, Uganda, and 
Uddhu were all united in one vast kingdom called Kittara, 
but this name is now only applied to certain portions 
of that kingdom. 



70 SCARCITY AT GONDOKORO. [Chap. II. 

- "Nothing is known of the Mountains of the Moon 
to the westward of Euanda. In Unyoro the king will 
feed you ; "beyond that I suspect you will have to buy 
food with beads." 

Such was the information most kindly written by Speke, 
which, in addition to a map drawn by Captain Grant, and 
addressed to the Secretary of the Eoyal Geographical 
Society, was to be my guide in the important exploration 
resolved upon. I am particular in publishing these 
details, in order to show the perfect freedom from jealousy 
of both Captains Speke and Grant. Unfortunately, in 
most affairs of life, there is not only fair emulation, but 
ambition is too often combined with intense jealousy of 
others. Had this miserable feeling existed in the minds 
of Speke and Grant, they would have returned to England 
with the sole honour of discovering the source of the 
Nile ; but in their true devotion to geographical science, 
and especially to the specific object of their expedition, 
they gave me all information to assist in the completion 
of the great problem — the " Nile Sources." 

We were all ready to start. Speke and Grant, and 
their party of twenty-two people, for Egypt, and I in 
the opposite direction. At .this season there were many 
boats at Gondokoro belonging to the traders' parties, 
among which were four belonging to Mr. Petherick, three 
of which were open cargo boats, and one remarkably nice 
diahbiah, named the "Kathleen," that was waiting for 
Mrs. Petherick and her husband, who were supposed to 
be at their trading station, the Mambara, about seventy 
miles west of Gondokoro ; but no accounts had been 
heard of them. On the 20th February they suddenly 
arrived from the Mambara, with their people and ivory, 
and were surprised at seeing so large a party of English 
in so desolate a spot. It is a curious circumstance, that 
although many Europeans had been as far south as 
Gondokoro, I was the first Englishman that had ever 
reached it. We now formed a party of four. 

Gondokoro has a poor and sandy soil, so unproductive 
that corn is in the greatest scarcity, and is always brought 



Chap. II.] DEPARTURE OF SPEKE AND GRANT. J\ 

from Khartoum by the annual boats for the supply of 
the traders' people, who congregate there from the interior, 
in the months of January and February, to deliver the 
ivory for shipment to Khartoum. Corn is seldom or never 
less than eight times the price at Khartoum ; this is a 
great drawback to the country, as each trading party that 
arrives with ivory from the interior brings with it five 
or six hundred native porters, all of whom have to be fed 
during their stay at Gondokoro, and in many cases, in 
times of scarcity, they starve. This famine has given 
a bad name to the locality, and it is accordingly difficult 
to procure porters from the interior, who naturally fear 
starvation. 

I was thus extremely sorry that I was obliged to 
refuse a supply of corn to Mr. Petherick upon his ap- 
plication — an act of necessity, but not of ill-nature upon 
my part, as I was obliged to leave a certain quantity 
in depot at Gondokoro, in case I should be driven back 
from the interior, in the event of which, without a supply 
in depot, utter starvation would have been the fate of 
my party. Mr. Petherick accordingly despatched one of 
his boats to the Shir tribe down the White Nile to 
purchase corn in exchange for molotes (native hoes). The 
boat returned with corn on the 11th of March. 

On the 26th February, Speke and Grant sailed from 
Gondokoro. Our hearts were too full to say more than 
a short " God bless you 1 " They had won their victory ; 
my work lay all before me. I watched their boat until 
it turned the corner, and wished them in my heart all 
honour for their great achievement. I trusted to sustain 
the name they had won for English perseverance, and 
I looked forward to meeting them again in dear old 
England, when I should have completed the work we 
had so warmly planned together. 



CHAPTEE III. 

GUN ACCIDENT. 

A DAY before the departure of Speke and Grant from 
Gondokoro, an event occurred which appeared as a 
bad omen to the superstitions of my men. I had ordered 
the diahbiah to be prepared for sailing : thus, the cargo 
having been landed and the boat cleared and washed, we 
were sitting in the cabin, when a sudden explosion close to 
the windows startled us from our seats, and the conster- 
nation of a crowd of men who were on the bank, ahowed 
that some accident had happened. I immediately ran 
out, and found that the servants had laid all my rifles 
upon a mat upon the ground, and that one of the men 
had walked over the guns ; his foot striking the hammer 
of one of the No. 10 Eeilly rifles, had momentarily raised 
it from the nipple, and an instantaneous explosion was 
the consequence. The rifle was loaded for elephants, 
with seven drachms of powder. There was a quantity of 
luggage most fortunately lying before the muzzle, but the 
effects of the discharge were extraordinary. The ball 
struck the steel scabbard of a sword, tearing off the ring ; 
it then passed obliquely through the stock of a large rifle, 
and burst through the shoulder-plate ; entering a packing- 
case of inch- deal, it passed through it and through the 
legs of a man who was sitting at some distance, and 
striking the hip-bone of another man, who was sitting at 
some paces beyond, it completely smashed both hips, and 
fortunately being expended, it lodged in the body. Had 
it not been for the first objects happily in the route of the 
ball, it would have killed several men, as they were sitting 
in a crowd exactly before the muzzle. 

Dr. Murie, who had accompanied Mr. Petherick, very 
kindly paid the wounded men every attention, but he 



Chap. III.] BIRDS RUIN THE DONKEYS. 73 

with the smashed hip died in a few hours, apparently 
without pain. x 

After the departure of Speke and Grant, I moved my 
tent to the high ground above the river; the effluvium 
from the filth of some thousands of people was disgusting, 
and fever was prevalent in all quarters. Both of us were 
suffering; also Mr. and Mrs. Petherick, and many of my 
men, one of whom died. My animals were all healthy, 
but the donkeys and camels were attacked by a bird, 
about the size of a thrush, which caused them great 
uneasiness. This bird is of a greenish-brown colour, with 
a powerful red beak, and excessively strong claws. It 
is a perfect pest to the animals, and positively eats them 
into holes. The original object of the bird in settling 
upon the animal is to search for vermin, but it is not 
contented with the mere insects, and industriously pecks 
holes in all parts of the animal, more especially on the 
back. A wound once established, adds to the attraction, 
and the unfortunate animal is so pestered that it has no 
time to eat. I was obliged to hire little boys to watch 
the donkeys, and to drive off these plagues ; but so 
determined and bold were the birds, that I have con- 
stantly seen them run under the body of the donkey, 
clinging to the belly with their feet, and thus retreating 
to the opposite side of the animal when chased by the 
watch-boys. In a few days my animals were full of 
wounds, excepting the horses, whose long tails were effec- 
tual whisks. Although the temperature was high, 95° 
Fahr., the wind was frequently cold at about three o'clock 
in the morning, and one of my horses, "Priest," that I 
had lately purchased of the Mission, became paralysed, 
and could not rise from the ground. After several days' 
endeavours to cure him, I was obliged to shoot him, as 
the poor animal could not eat. 

I now weighed all my baggage, and found that I had 
fifty-four cantars (100 lbs. each). The beads, copper, and 
ammunition were the terrible onus. I therefore applied 
to Mahommed, the vakeel of Andrea Debono, who had 
escorted Speke and Grant, and I begged his co-operation 



74 PLOT TO OBSTRUCT MY ADFANCE. [Chap. III. 

in the expedition. These people had brought down a 
large quantity of ivory from the interior, and had there- 
fore a number of porters who would return empty-handed ; 
I accordingly arranged with Mahommed for fifty porters, 
who would much relieve the backs of my animals from 
Gondokoro to the station at Faloro, about twelve days' 
march. At Faloro I intended to leave my heavy baggage 
in depot, and to proceed direct to Kamrasi's country. I 
promised Mahommed that I would use my influence in all 
new countries that I might discover, to open a road for 
his ivory trade, provided that he would agree to conduct 
it by legitimate purchase, and I gave him a list of the 
quality of beads most desirable for Kamrasi's country, 
according to the- description I had received from Speke. 

Mahommed promised to accompany me, not only to his 
camp at Faloro, but throughout the whole of my expe- 
dition, provided that I would assist him in procuring 
ivory, and that I would give him a handsome present. 
All was agreed upon, and my own men appeared in high 
spirits at the prospect of joining so large a party as that of 
Mahommed, which mustered about two hundred men. 

At that time I really placed dependence upon the pro- 
fessions of Mahommed and his people ; they had just 
brought Speke and Grant with them, and had received 
from them presents of a first-class double-barrelled gun 
and several valuable rifles. I had promised not only to 
assist them in their ivory expeditions, but to give them 
something very handsome in addition, and the fact of my 
having upwards of forty men as escort was also an intro- 
duction, as they would be an addition to the force, which 
is a great advantage in hostile countries. Everything 
appeared to be in good train, but I little knew the 
duplicity of these Arab scoundrels At the very moment 
that they were most friendly, they were plotting to deceive 
me, and to prevent me from entering the country. They 
knew, that should I penetrate the interior, the ivory trade 
of the White Nile would be no longer a mystery, and that 
the atrocities of the slave trade would be exposed, and 
most likely be terminated by the intervention of European 



Chap III.] DISCONTENT OF 2IY MEN. 75 

Powers ; accordingly they combined to prevent my ad- 
vance, and to overthrow my expedition completely. The 
whole of the men belonging to the various traders were 
determined that no Englishman should penetrate into the 
country ; accordingly they fraternised with my escort, 
and persuaded them that I was a Christian clog, that it 
was a disgrace for a Mahommedan to serve ; that they 
would be starved in my service, as I would not allow 
them to steal cattle ; that they would have no slaves ; and 
that I should lead them — God knew where — to the sea, 
from whence Speke and Grant hud started ; that they had 
left Zanzibar with two hundred men, and had only arrived 
at Gondokoro with eighteen, thus the remainder must 
have been killed hj the natives on the road ; that if they 
followed me, and arrived at Zanzibar, I should find a ship 
waiting to take me to England, and I shoidd leave them 
to die in a strange country. Such were .the reports cir- 
culated to prevent my men from accompanying moj and 
it was agreed that Mahommed should fix a day for our 
pretended start in company, but that he would in reality 
start a few days before the time appointed ; and that my 
men should mutiny, and join his party in cattle-stealing 
and slave-hunting. This was the substance of the plot 
thus carefully concocted. 

My men evinced a sullen demeanour, neglected all 
orders, and I plainly perceived a settled discontent upon 
their general expression. The donkeys and camels were 
allowed to stray, and were daily missing, and recovered 
with difficulty ; the luggage was overrun with white ants 
instead of being attended to every morning ; the men 
absented themselves without leave, and were constantly in 
the camps of the different traders. I was fully prepared 
for some difficulty, but I trusted that when once on the 
march I should be able to get them under discipline. 

Among my people were two blacks: one, "Bicharn," 
already described as having been brought up by the 
Austrian Mission at Khartoum ; the other, a boy of twelve 
years old, " Saat." As these were the only really faithful 
members of the expedition, it is my duty to describe 



7$ HISTORY OF SAAT. [Chap. III. 

them. Kicharn was an habitual drunkard, but he had his 
good points ; he was honest, and much attached to both 
master and mistress. He had been with me for some 
months, and was a fair sportsman, and being of an entirely 
different race to the Arabs, he kept himself apart from 
them, and fraternised with the boy Saat. 

Saat was a boy that would do no evil ; he was honest 
to a superlative degree, and a great exception to the 
natives of this wretched country. He was a native of 
"lertit," and was minding his father's goats, when a 
child of about six years old, at the time of his capture by 
the Baggara Arabs. He described vividly how men on 
camels suddenly appeared while he was in the wilderness 
with his flock, and how he was forcibly seized and thrust 
into a large gum sack, and slung upon the back of a 
camel. Upon screaming for help, the sack was opened, 
and an Arab threatened him with a knife should he make 
the slightest noise. Thus quieted, he was carried hun- 
dreds of miles through Kordofan to Dongola on the Nile, 
at which place he was sold to slave-dealers, and taken to 
Cairo to be sold to the Egyptian government as a drum- 
mer-boy. Being too young he was rejected, and while in 
the dealer's hands he heard from another slave, of the 
Austrian Mission at Cairo, that would protect him could 
he only reach their asylum. "With extraordinary energy 
for a child of six years old, he escaped from his master, 
and made his way to the Mission, where he was well 
received, and to a certain extent disciplined and taught as 
much of the Christian religion as he could understand. 
In company with a branch establishment of the Mission, 
he was subsequently located at Khartoum, and from 
thence was sent up the White Nile to a Mission-station in 
the Shillook country. The climate of the White Nile 
destroyed thirteen missionaries in the short space of six 
months, and the boy Saat returned with the remnant of 
the party to Khartoum, and was re-admitted into the 
Mission. The establishment was at that time swarming 
with little black boys from the various White Nile tribes, 
who repaid the kindness of the missionaries by stealing 



Chap. III.] TURNED OUT OF MISSION. J? 

everything they could lay their hands upon. At length 
the utter worthlessness of the boys, their moral obtuse- 
ness, and the apparent impossibility of improving them, 
determined the chief of the Mission to purge his esta- 
blishment from such imps, and they were accordingly 
turned out. Poor little Saat, the one grain of gold amidst 
the mire, shared the same fate. 

It was about a week before our departure from Khar- 
toum that Mrs. Baker and I were at tea in the middle of 
the court-yard, when a miserable boy about twelve years 
old came uninvited to her side, and knelt down in the 
dust at her feet. There was something so irresistibly sup- 
plicating in the attitude of the child, that the first impulse 
was to give him something from the table. This was 
declined, and he merely begged to be allowed to live with 
us, and to be our boy. He said that he had been turned 
out of the Mission, merely because the Bari boys of the 
establishment were thieves, and thus he suffered for their 
sins. I could not believe it possible that the child had 
been actually turned out into the streets, and believing 
that the fault must lay in the boy, I told him I would 
inquire. In the meantime he was given in charge of the 
tfook. 

It happened that, on the following day, I was so much 
occupied that I forgot to inquire at the Mission ; and once 
more the cool hour of evening arrived when, after the 
intense heat of the day, we sat at table in the open court- 
yard; it was refreshed by being plentifully watered. 
Hardly were we seated, when again the boy appeared, 
kneeling in the dust, with his head lowered at my wife's 
feet, and imploring to be allowed to follow us. It was in 
vain that I explained that we had a boy, and did not 
require another ; that the journey was long and difficult, 
and that he might perhaps die. The boy feared nothing, 
and craved simply that he might belong to us. He had 
no place of shelter, no food ; had been stolen from his 
parents, and was a helpless outcast. 

The next morning, accompanied by Mrs. Baker, 1 went 
to the Mission and heard that the boy had borne an ex- 



78 SJJT'S CHARACTER [Chap. III. 

cellent character, and that it must have been by mistake 
that he had been turned out with the others. This being 
conclusive, Saat was immediately adopted. Mrs. Baker 
was shortly at work making him some useful clothes, and 
in an incredibly short time a great change was effected. 
As he came from the hands of the cook — after a liberal 
use of soap and water, and attired in trowsers, blouse, and 
belt — the new boy appeared in a new character. 

From that time he considered himself as belonging 
absolutely to his mistress. He was taught by her to sew ; 
Bicharn instructed him in the mysteries of waiting at 
table, and washing plates^ &c. ; while I taught him to 
shoot, and gave him a light double-barrelled gun. This 
was his greatest pride. 

In the evening, when the day's work was done, Saat 
was allowed to sit near his mistress ; and he was at times 
amused and instructed by stories of Europe and Euro- 
peans, and anecdotes from the Bible adapted to his under- 
standing, combined with the first principles of Christianity. 
He was very ignorant, notwithstanding his advantages in 
the Mission, but he possessed the first grand rudiments of 
all religion — honesty of purpose. Although a child of 
only twelve years old, he was so perfectly trustworthy 
that, at the period of our arrival at Gondokoro, he was 
more to be depended upon than my vakeel, and nothing 
could occur among my mutinous escort without the boy's 
knowledge : thus he reported the intended mutiny of the 
people when there was no other means of discovering it, 
and without Saat I should have had no information of 
their plots. 

Not only was the boy trustworthy, but he had an ex- 
traordinary amount of moral in addition to physical 
courage. If any complaint were made, and Saat was 
called as a witness — far from the shyness too often evinced 
when the accuser is brought face to face with the accused 
— such was Saat's proudest moment ; and, no matter who 
the man might be, the boy would challenge him, regard- 
less of all consequences. 

We were very fond of this boy; he was thoroughly 



Chap. III.] MUTINY OF ESCORT. 79 

good; and in that land of iniquity, thousands of miles 
away from all except what was evil, there was a comfort 
in having some one innocent and faithful, in whom to 
trust. 

We were to start upon the following Monday. Mahom- 
med had paid me a visit, assuring me of his devotion, and 
begging me to have my baggage in marching order, as he 
would send me fifty porters on the Monday, and we would 
move off in company. At the very moment that he thus 
professed, he was coolly deceiving me. He had arranged 
to start without me on the Saturday, while he was pro- 
posing to march together on the Monday. This I did not 
know at the time. 

One morning I had returned to the tent after having, as 
usual, inspected the transport animals, when I observed 
Mrs. Baker looking extraordinarily pale, and immediately 
upon my arrival she gave orders for the presence of the 
vakeel (headman). There was something in her manner, so 
different to her usual calm, that I was utterly bewildered 
when I heard her question the vakeel, " Whether the men 
were willing to march ? " Perfectly ready, was the reply. 
" Then order them to strike the tent, and load the animals ; 
we start this moment." The man appeared confused, but 
not more so than I. Something was evidently on foot, but 
what I could not conjecture. The vakeel wavered, and to 
my astonishment I heard the accusation made against him, 
that, " during the night, the whole of the escort had muti- 
nously conspired to desert me, with my arms and ammuni- 
tion that were in their hands, and to fire simultaneously at 
me should I attempt to disarm them." At first this charge 
was indignantly denied until the boy Saat manfully 
stepped forward, and declared that the conspiracy was 
entered into by the whole of the escort, and that both he 
and Eicharn, knowing that mutiny was intended, had 
listened purposely to the conversation during the night ; at 
daybreak the boy reported the fact to his mistress. 
Mutiny, robbery, and murder were thus deliberately 
determined. 

I immediately ordered an angarep (travelling bedstead) 



80 PREPARATIONS FOR THE WORST. [Chap. III. 

to be placed outside the tent under a large tree ; upon this 
I laid five double-barrelled guns loaded with buck shot, a 
revolver, and naked sabre as sharp as a razor. A sixth 
rifle I kept in my hands while I sat upon the angarep, 
with Bicharn and Saat both with double-barrelled guns 
behind me. Formerly I had supplied each of my men 
with a piece of mackintosh waterproof to be tied over the 
locks of their guns during the march. I now ordered the 
drum to be beat, and all the men to form in line in march- 
ing order, with their locks tied up in tlu waterproof. I 
requested Mrs. Baker to stand behind me, and to point out 
any man who should attempt to uncover his locks, when 
I should give the order to lay down their arms. The act 
of uncovering the locks would prove his intention, in 
which event I intended to shoot him immediately, and 
take my chance with the rest of the conspirators. 

I had quite determined that these scoundrels should 
not rob me of my own arms and ammimition, if I could 
prevent it. 

The drum beat, and the vakeel himself went into the 
men's quarters, and endeavoured to prevail upon them to 
answer the call. At length fifteen assembled in line ; the 
others were nowhere to be found. The locks of the arms 
were secured by mackintosh as ordered ; it was thus im- 
possible for any man to fire at me until he should have 
released his locks. 

Upon assembling in line I ordered them immediately to 
lay down their arms. This, with insolent looks of defiance, 
they refused to do. " Down with your guns this moment," 
I shouted, " sons of dogs !" And at the sharp click of the 
locks, as I quickly cocked the rifle that I held in my 
hands, the cowardly mutineers widened their line and 
wavered. Some retreated a few paces to the rear ; others 
sat down, and laid their guns on the ground; while the 
remainder slowly dispersed, and sat in twos, or singly, 
under the various trees about eighty paces distant. Taking 
advantage of their indecision, I immediately rose and 
ordered my vakeel and Eicharn to disarm them as they 
were thus scattered. Foreseeing that the time had arrived 



Chap. III.] DISARM THE MUTINEERS. 81 

for actual physical force, the cowards capitulated, agreeing 
to give up their arms and ammunition if I would give 
them their written discharge. I disarmed them imme- 
diately, and the vakeel having written a discharge for 
the fifteen men present, I wrote upon each paper the 
word "mutineer" above my signature. None of them 
being able to read, and this being written in English, 
they unconsciously carried the evidence of their own guilt, 
which I resolved to punish should I ever find them on my 
return to Khartoum. 

Thus disarmed, they immediately joined other of the 
traders' parties. These fifteen men were the " Jalyns " of 
my party, the remainder being Dongolowas : both Arabs 
of the Nile, north of Khartoum. The Dongolowas had 
not appeared when summoned by the drum, and my vakeel 
being of their nation, I impressed upon him his respon- 
sibility for the mutiny, and that he would end his days in 
prison at Khartoum should my expedition fail. 

The boy Saat and Eicharn now assured me that the 
men had intended to fire at me, but that they were 
frightened at seeing us thus prepared, but that I must not 
expect one man of the Dongolowas to be any more faithful 
than the Jalyns. I ordered the vakeel to hunt up the 
men, and to bring me their guns, threatening that if they 
refused I would shoot any man that I found with one of 
my guns in his hands. 

There was no time for mild measures. I had only Saat 
(a mere child), and Eicharn, upon whom I could depend ; 
and I resolved with them alone to accompany Mahommed's 
people to the interior, and to trust to good fortune for a 
chance of proceeding. 

I was feverish and ill with worry and anxiety, and I 
was lying down upon my mat, when I suddenly heard 
guns firing in all directions, drums beating, and the cus- 
tomary signs of either an arrival or departure of a trading 
party. Presently a messenger arrived from Koorshid Aga, 
the Circassian, to announce the departure of Mahommed's 
party without me; and my vakeel appeared with a message 
from the same people, that " if I followed on their road 

G 



82 ARRANGEMENT WITH KOORSHID AGA. [Chap. III. 

(my proposed route), they would fire upon me and my 
party, as they would allow no English spies in their 
country." 

My vakeel must have known of this preconcerted 
arrangement. I now went to the Circassian, Koorshid, 
who had always been friendly personally. In an inter- 
view with him, I made him understand that nothing 
should drive me back to Khartoum, but that, as I was 
now helpless, I begged him to give me ten elephant- 
hunters; that I would pay one-half of their wages, and 
amuse myself in hunting and exploring in any direction 
until the following year, he to take the ivory ; by which 
time I could receive thirty black soldiers from Khartoum, 
with whom I should commence my journey to the lake. 
I begged him to procure me thirty good blacks at Khar- 
toum, and to bring them with him to Gondokoro next 
season, where I arranged to meet him. This he agreed to, 
and I returned to my tent delighted at a chance of escap- 
ing complete failure, although I thus encountered a delay 
of twelve months before I could commence my legitimate 
voyage. That accomplished, 1 was comparatively happy ; 
the disgrace of returning to Khartoum beaten, would have 
been insupportable. 

That night I slept well, and we sat under our shady tree 
by the tent-door at sunrise on the following morning, 
drinking our coffee with contentment. Presently, from a 
distance, I saw Koorshid, the Circassian, approaching with 
his partner. Coffee and pipes were ready instanter : both 
the boy Saat and Eicharn looked upon him as a friend and 
ally, as it was arranged that ten of his hunters were to 
accompany us. Before he sipped his coffee he took me by 
the hand, and with great confusion of manner he confessed 
that he was ashamed to come and visit me. " The moment 
you left me yesterday," said he, " I called my vakeel and 
headman, and ordered them to select the ten best men of 
my party to accompany you ; but instead of obeying me 
as usual, they declared that nothing would induce them to 
serve under you; that you were a spy who would report 
their proceedings to the Government, and that they should 



Chap. III. J EXPEDITION RUINED. 83 

all be ruined ; that you were not only a spy on the slave- 
trade, but that you were a madman, who would lead them 
into distant and unknown countries, where both you and 
your wife and they would all be murdered by the natives ; 
thus they would mutiny immediately, should you be forced 
upon them." My last hope was gone. Of course I 
thanked Koorshid for his good-will, and explained that I 
should not think of intruding myself upon his party, but 
that at the same time they should not drive me out of the 
country. I had abundance of stores and ammunition, and 
now that my men had deserted me, I had sufficient corn 
to supply my small party for twelve months ; I had also a 
quantity of garden-seeds, that I had brought with me in 
the event of becoming a prisoner in the country ; I should 
therefore make a zareeba or camp at Gondokoro, and re- 
main there until I should receive men and supplies in the 
following season. I now felt independent, having pre- 
served my depot of corn. I was at least proof against 
famine for twelve months. Koorshid endeavoured to per- 
suade me that my party of only a man and a boy would 
be certainly insulted and attacked by the insolent natives 
of the Bari tribe should I remain alone at Gondokoro after 
the departure of the traders' parties. I told him that I 
preferred the natives to the traders' people, and that I was 
resolved ; I merely begged him to lend me one of his little 
slave boys as an interpreter, as I had no means of com- 
municating with the natives. This he promised to do. 

After Koorshid's departure, we sat silently for some 
minutes, both my wife and I occupied by the same 
thoughts. 

No expedition had ever been more carefully planned; 
everything had been well arranged to insure success. My 
transport animals were in good condition; their saddles 
and pads had been made under my own inspection ; my 
arms, ammunition, and supplies were abundant, and I was 
ready to march at five minutes' notice to any part of 
Africa; but the expedition, so costly, and so carefully 
organized, was completely ruined by the very people 
whom I had engaged to protect it. They had not only 

g2 



84 UICHARN FAITHFUL. [Chap. III. 

deserted, but they had conspired to murder. There was no 
law in these wild regions but brute force ; human life was 
of no value ; murder was a pastime, as the murderer could 
escape all punishment. Mr. Petherick's vakeel had just 
been shot dead by one of his own men, and such events 
were too common to create much attention. We were 
utterly helpless; the whole of the people against us, and 
openly threatening. For myself personally I had no anxiety, 
but the fact of Mrs. Baker being with me was my greatest 
care. I dared not think of her position in the event of 
my death amongst such savages as those around her. 
These thoughts were shared by her ; but she, knowing that 
I had resolved to succeed, never once hinted an advice for 
retreat. 

Eicharn was as faithful as Saat, and I accordingly 
confided in him my resolution to leave all my baggage in 
charge of a friendly chief of the Bari's at Gondokoro, and 
to take two fast dromedaries for him and Saat, and two 
horses for Mrs. Baker and myself, and to make a push 
through the hostile tribe for three days, to arrive among 
friendly people at " Moir," from which place I trusted to 
fortune. I arranged that the dromedaries should carry a 
few beads, ammunition, and the astronomical instruments. 

Eicharn said the idea was very mad; that the natives 
would do nothing for beads; that he had had great 
experience on the White Nile when with a former master, 
and that the natives would do nothing without receiving 
cows as payment; that it was of no use being good to 
them, as they had no respect for any virtue but " force ; " 
that we should most likely be murdered; but that if I 
ordered him to go, he was ready to obey. 

" Master, go on, and I will follow thee, 
To the last gasp, with truth and loyalty. " 

I was delighted with Eicharn's rough and frank fidelity. 
Ordering the horses to be brought, I carefully pared their 
feet — their hard flinty hoofs, that had never felt a shoe, 
were in excellent order for a gallop, if necessary. All 
being ready, I sent for the chief of Gondokoro. Mean- 



Chap. III.] BARI CHIEF'S REPORT. 85 

while a Bari boy arrived from Koorshid to act as my 
interpreter. 

The Bari chief was, as usual, smeared all over with red 
ochre and fat, and had the shell of a small land tortoise 
suspended to his elbow as an ornament. He brought me a 
large jar of merissa (native beer), and said "he had been 
anxious to see the white man who did not steal cattle, 
neither kidnap slaves, but that I should do no good in that 
country, as the traders did not wish me to remain." He 
told me "that all people were bad, both natives and 
traders, and that force was necessary in this country." I 
tried to discover whether he had any respect for good and 
upright conduct. "Yes," he said; "all people say that 
you are different to the Turks and traders, but that 
character will not help you; it is all very good and very 
right, but you see your men have all deserted, thus you 
must go back to Khartoum; you can do nothing here 
without plenty of men and guns." I proposed to him my 
plan of riding quickly through the Bari tribe to Moir ; he 
replied, " Impossible ! If I were to beat the great nogaras 
(drums), and call my people together to explain who you 
were, they would not hurt you ; but there are many petty 
chiefs who do not obey me, and their people would certainly 
attack you when crossing some swollen torrent, and what 
could you do with only a man and a boy ? " 

His reply to my question concerning the value of beads 
corroborated Eicharn's statement; nothing could be pur- 
chased for anything but cattle ; the traders had commenced 
the system of stealing herds of cattle from one tribe to 
barter with the next neighbour; thus the entire country 
was in anarchy and confusion, and beads were of no 
value. My plan for a dash through the country was 
impracticable. 

I therefore called my vakeel, and threatened him with 
the gravest punishment on my return to Khartoum. I 
wrote to Sir E. Colquhoun, H.M. Consul- General for 
Egypt, which letter I sent by one of the return boats ; and 
I explained to my vakeel that the complaint to the British 
authorities would end in his imprisonment, and that in 



86 REVELATION OF PLOT OF MEN [Chap. III. 

case of my death through violence he would assuredly be 
hanged. After frightening him thoroughly, I suggested 
that he should induce some of the mutineers, who were 
Dongolowas (his own tribe), many of whom were his 
relatives, to accompany me, in which case I would forgive 
them their past misconduct. 

In the course of the afternoon he returned with the 
news, that he had arranged with seventeen of the men, 
but that they refused to march towards the south, and 
would accompany me to the east if I wished to explore 
that part of the country. Their plea for refusing a southern 
route was the hostility of the Baii tribe. They also pro- 
posed a condition, that I should " leave all my transport 
animals and baggage behind me." 

To this insane request, which completely nullified their 
offer to start, I only replied by vowing vengeance against 
the vakeel. 

Their time was passed in vociferously quarrelling among 
themselves during the day, and in close conference with 
the vakeel during the night, the substance of which was 
reported on the following morning by the faithful Saat. 
The boy recounted their plot. They agreed to march to the 
east, with the intention of deserting me at the station of a 
trader named Chenooda, seven days' march from Gondo- 
koro, in the Latooka country, whose men were, like them- 
selves, Dongolowas ; they had conspired to mutiny at that 
place, and to desert to the slave-hunting party with my 
arms and ammunition, and to shoot me should I attempt 
to disarm them. They also threatened to shoot my vakeel, 
who now, through fear of punishment at Khartoum, exerted 
his influence to induce them to s,tart. Altogether, it was a 
pleasant state of things. 

That night I was asleep in my tent, when I was sud- 
denly awoke by loud screams, and upon listening atten- 
tively I distinctly heard the heavy breathing of something 
in the tent, and I could distinguish a dark object crouching 
close to the head of my bed. A slight pull at my sleeve 
showed me that my wife also noticed the object, as this 
was always the signal that she made if anythimg occurred 



Chap. IILj " QUID PRO QUO." 87 

at night that required vigilance. Possessing a share of 
sangfroid admirably adapted for African travel, Mrs. Baker 
was not a screamer, and never even whispered ; in the 
moment of suspected danger, a touch of my sleeve was 
considered a sufficient warning. My hand had quietly drawn 
the revolver from under my pillow and noiselessly pointed 
it within two feet of the dark crouching object, before I 
asked, "Who is that?" No answer was given — until, 
upon repeating the question, with my finger touching 
gently upon the trigger ready to fire, a voice replied, 
" Fadeela." Never had I been so near to a fatal shot ! It 
was one of the black women of the party, who had crept 
into the tent for an asylum. Upon striking a light I found 
that the woman was streaming with blood, being cut in 
the most frightful manner with the coorbatch (whip of 
hippopotamus' hide). Hearing the screams continued at 
some distance from the tent, I found my angels in the act 
of flogging two women ; two men were holding each woman 
upon the ground by sitting upon her legs and neck, while 
two men with powerful whips operated upon each woman 
alternately. Their backs were cut to pieces, and they were 
literally covered with blood. The brutes had taken upon 
themselves the task of thus punishing the women for a 
breach of discipline in being absent without leave. Fa- 
deela had escaped before her punishment had been com- 
pleted, and narrowly escaped being shot by running to the 
tent without giving warning. Seizing the coorbatch from 
the hands of one of the executioners, I administered them 
a dose of their own prescription, to their intense astonish- 
ment, as they did not appear conscious of any outrage ; — 
" they were only slave women." In all such expeditions 
it is necessary to have women belonging to the party to 
grind the corn and prepare the food for the men ; I had 
accordingly hired several from their proprietors at Khar- 
toum, and these had been maltreated as described. 

I was determined at all hazards to start from Gondo- 
koro for the interior. From long experience with natives 
of wild countries, I did not despair of obtaining an in- 
fluence over my men, however bad, could I once quit 



88 "ADD A, v THE LATOOKA. [Chap. III. 

Gondokoro, and lead them among the wild and generally- 
hostile tribes of the country ; they would then be separated 
from the contagion of the slave-hunting parties, and would 
feel themselves dependent upon me for guidance. Accord- 
ingly I professed to believe in their promises to accompany 
me to the east, although I knew of their conspiracy ; and 
I trusted that by tact and good management I should 
eventually thwart all their plans, and, although forced out 
of my intended course, I should be able to alter my route, 
and to work round from the east to my original plan of 
operations south. The interpreter given by Koorshid Aga 
had absconded : this was a great loss, as I had no means 
of communication with the natives except by casually 
engaging a Bari in the employment of the traders, to whom 
I was obliged to pay exorbitantly in copper bracelets for 
a few minutes' conversation. 

A party of Koorshid' s people had just arrived with ivory 
from the Latooka country, bringing with them a number 
of that tribe as porters. These people were the most 
extraordinary that I had seen ; — wearing beautiful helmets 
of glass beads, and being remarkably handsome. The 
chief of the party, " Adda," came to my tent, accompanied 
by a few of his men. He was one of the finest men I 
ever saw, and he gave me much information concerning his 
country, and begged me to pay him a visit. He detested 
the Turks, but he was obliged to serve them, as he had 
received orders from the great chief " Commoro " to collect 
porters, and to transport their ivory from Latooka to Gon- 
dokoro. I took his portrait, to his great delight, and made 
him a variety of presents of copper bracelets, beads, and a 
red cotton handkerchief; the latter was most prized, and 
he insisted upon wearing it upon his person. He had no 
intention of wearing his new acquisition for the purpose of 
decency, but he carefully folded it so as to form a triangle, 
and then tied it round his waist, so that the pointed end 
should hang exactly straight behind him. So particular 
was he, that he was quite half an hour in arranging this 
simple appendage ; and at length he departed with his 
people, always endeavouring to admire his new finery, by 



Chap. III.] ARRANGE TO START FOR LATOOKA. 89 

straining Ms neck in his attempts to look behind him. 
From morning till night natives of all ranks surrounded 
the tent to ask for presents ; these being generally granted, 
as it was highly necessary to create a favourable impres- 
sion. Koorshid's party, who had arrived from Latooka, 
were to return shortly, but they not only refused to allow 
me to accompany them, but they declared their intention 
of forcibly repelling me, should I attempt to advance by 
their route. This was a grand excuse for my men, who 
once more refused to proceed. By pressure upon the 
vakeel they again yielded, but on condition that I would 
take one of the mutineers named " Bellaal," who wished to 
join them, but whose offer I had refused, as he had been a 
notorious ringleader in every mutiny. It was a sine qua 
norv that he was to go ; and knowing the character of the 
man, I felt convinced that it had been arranged that he 
should head the mutiny conspired to be enacted upon our 
arrival at Chenooda's camp in the Latooka country. The 
vakeel of Chenoocla, one Mahommed Her, was in constant 
communication with my men, which tended to conhrm the 
reports I had heard from the boy Saat. This Mahommed 
Her started from Gondokoro for Latooka. Koorshid's men 
would start two days later ; these were rival parties, both 
antagonistic, but occupying the same country, the Latooka ; 
both equally hostile to me, but as the party of Mahommed 
Her were Dongalowas, and that of Koorshid were- Jalyns 
and Soodanes, I trusted eventually to turn their disputes 
to my own advantage. 

The plan that I had arranged was to leave all the 
baggage not indispensable with Koorshid Aga at Gondo- 
koro, who would return it to Khartoum. I intended to 
wait until Koorshid's party should march, when I resolved 
to follow them, as I did not believe they would dare to 
oppose me by force, their master himself being friendly. 
1 considered their threats as mere idle boasting, to frighten 
me from an attempt to follow them; but there was an- 
other more serious cause of danger to be apprehended. 

On the route, between Gondokoro and Latooka, there 
was a powerful tribe among the mountains of Ellyria. 



90 DETERMINATION TO PROCEED. [Chap. III. 

The chief of that tribe (Legg6) had formerly massacred a 
hundred and twenty of a trader's party. He was an ally 
of Koorshid's people, who declared that they would raise 
the tribe against me, which would end in the defeat or 
massacre of my party. There was a difficult pass through 
the mountains of Ellyria, which it would be impossible to 
force ; thus my small party of seventeen men would be 
helpless. It would be merely necessary for the traders to 
request the chief of Ellyria to attack my party to insure 
its destruction, as the plunder of the baggage would be an 
ample reward. 

There was no time for deliberation. Both the present 
and the future looked as gloomy as could be imagined ; but 
I had always expected extraordinary difficulties, and they 
were, if possible, to be surmounted. It was useless to 
speculate upon chances ; there was no hope of success in 
inaction; and the only resource was to drive through all 
obstacles without calculating the risk. 

Once away from Gondokoro we should be fairly 
launched on our voyage, the boats would have returned to 
Khartoum, thus retreat would be cut off; it only remained 
to push forward, trusting in Providence and good fortune. 
I had great faith in presents. The Arabs are all venal ; and, 
having many valuable effects with me, I trusted, when the 
proper moment should arrive, to be able to overcome all 
opposition by an open hand. 

The day arrived for the departure of Koorshid's people. 
They commenced firing their usual signals; the drums 
beat ; the Turkish ensign led the way ; and they marched 
at 2 o'clock p.m., sending a polite message, " daring " me to 
follow them. 

I immediately ordered the tent to be struck, the luggage 
to be arranged, the animals to be collected, and every- 
thing to be ready for the march. Kicharn and Saat were 
in high spirits, even my unwilling men were obliged to 
work, and by 7 p.m. we were all ready. The camels were 
too heavily loaded, carrying about seven hundred pounds 
each. The donkeys were also overloaded, but there was 
no help for it. Mrs. Baker was well mounted on my good 



Ouap. IV.] MT OWN GUIDE. 91 

old Abyssinian hunter "Tetel,"* and was carrying several 
leather bags slung to the pommel, while I was equally 
loaded on my horse "Filnl;"f in fact, we were all carry- 
ing as much as we could stow. 

We had neither guide, nor interpreter. Not one native 
was procurable, all being under the influence of the 
traders, who had determined to render our advance utterly 
impossible by preventing the natives from assisting us. 
All had been threatened, and we, perfectly helpless, com- 
menced the desperate journey in darkness about an hour 
after sunset. 

"Where shall we go?" said the men, just as the order 
was given to start. " Who can travel without a guide ? 
No one knows the road." The moon was up, and the 
mountain of Belignan was distinctly visible about nine 
miles distant. Knowing that the route lay on the east 
side of that mountain, I led the way, Mrs. Baker riding 
by my side, and the British flag following close behind us 
as a guide for the caravan of heavily laden camels and 
donkeys. We shook hands warmly with Dr. Murie, who 
had come to see us off, and thus we started on our march 
in Central Africa on the 26th of March, 1863. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE country was park-like, but much parched by the 
dry weather. The ground was sandy, but firm, and 
interspersed with numerous villages, all of which were sur- 
rounded with a strong fence of euphorbia. The country 
was well wooded, being free from bush or jungle, but 
numerous trees, all evergreens, were scattered over the 
landscape. No natives were to be seen, but the sound of 
their drums and singing in chorus was heard in the far 

* " Hartebeest. " f "Pepper." 



92 FIRST NIGHT'S MARCH. [Chap. IV. 

distance. Whenever it is moonlight the nights are passed 
in singing and dancing, heating drums, "blowing horns, 
and the population of whole villages thus congregate 
together. 

After a silent march of two hours we saw watch-fires 
blazing in the distance, and upon nearer approach we per- 
ceived the trader's party bivouacked. Their custom is to 
march only two or three hours on the first day of departure, 
to allow stragglers who may have lagged behind in Gondo- 
koro to rejoin the party before morning. 

We were roughly challenged by their sentries as we 
passed, and were instantly told "not to remain in their 
neighbourhood." Accordingly we passed on for about 
half a mile in advance, and bivouacked on some rising 
ground above a slight hollow hi which we found water. 
All were busy collecting firewood and cutting grass for the 
donkeys and horses who were picketed near the fires. 
The camels were hobbled, and turned to graze upon the 
branches of a large mimosa. We were not hungry ; the 
constant anxiety had entirely destroyed all appetite. A 
cup of strong black coffee was the greatest luxury, and 
not requiring a tent in the clear still night, we were soon 
asleep on our simple angareps. 

Before daylight on the following morning the drum 
beat; the lazy soldiers, after stretching and yawning, 
began to load the animals, and we started at six o'clock. 
In these climates the rising of the sun is always dreaded. 
For about an hour before sunrise the air is deliciously cool 
and invigorating, but the sun is regarded as the common 
enemy. There is, nevertheless, a difficulty in starting 
before sunrise — the animals cannot be properly loaded in 
the darkness, and the operation being tedious, the cool 
hour of morning is always lost. 

The morning was clear, and the mountain of Belignan, 
within three or four miles, was a fine object to direct our 
course. I could distinctly see some enormous trees at the 
foot of the mountain near a village, and I hastened 
forward, as I hoped to procure a guide who would also 
act as interpreter, many of the natives in the vicinity of 



Chap. IV.] ATTEMPTS AT CONCILIATION. 93 

Gondokoro having learnt a little Arabic from the traders. 
We cantered on ahead of the party, regardless of the 
assurance of onr unwilling men that the natives were not 
to be trusted, and we soon arrived beneath the shade of a 
cluster of most superb trees. The village was within a 
quarter of a mile, situated at the very base of the abrupt 
mountain; the natives seeing us alone had no fear, and 
soon thronged around us. The chief understood a few 
words of Arabic, and I offered a large payment of copper 
bracelets and beads for a guide. After much discussion 
and bargaining, a bad-looking fellow offered to guide us 
to Ellyria, but no farther. This was about twenty-eight 
or thirty miles distant, and it was of vital importance that 
we should pass through that tribe before the trader's party 
should raise them against us. I had great hopes of out- 
marching them, as they would be delayed in Belignan by 
ivory transactions with the chief. 

While negotiations were pending with the guide, the 
trader's party appeared in the distance, and avoiding us, 
they halted on the opposite side of the village. I now 
tried conciliatory measures, and I sent my vakeel to their 
headman Ibrahim to talk with him confidentially, and to 
try to obtain an interpreter in return for a large present. 

My vakeel was in an awkward position — he was afraid 
of me; also mortally afraid of the government in Khar- 
toum; and frightened out of his life at his own men, 
whose conspiracy to desert he was well aware of. With 
the cunning of an Arab he started on his mission, accom- 
panied by several of the men, including the arch-mutineer 
Bellaal. He shortly returned, saying, "that it was per- 
fectly impossible to proceed to the interior ; that Ibrahim's 
party were outrageous at my having followed on their 
route ; that he would neither give an interpreter, nor 
allow any of the natives to serve me ; and that he would 
give orders to the great chief of Ellyria to prevent me 
from passing through his country." 

At that time the Turks were engaged in business trans- 
actions with the natives ; it therefore was all important 
that I should start immediately, and by a forced march 



94 / SHAME MY MEN. [Chap. IV. 

arrive at Ellyria, and get through the pass, before they 
should communicate with the chief. I had no doubt that, 
by paying black mail, I should be able to clear Ellyria, 
provided I was in advance of the Turks, but should they 
outmarch me there would be no hope ; a fight and defeat 
would be the climax. I accordingly gave orders for an 
immediate start. " Load the camels, my brothers !" I 
exclaimed, to the sullen ruffians around me; but not a 
man stirred except Eicharn and a fellow named Sali, 
who began to show signs of improvement. Seeing that 
the men intended to disobey, I immediately set to work 
myself loading the animals, requesting my men not to 
trouble themselves, and begging them to hie down and 
smoke their pipes while I did the work. A few rose from 
the ground ashamed, and assisted to load the camels, while 
the others declared the impossibility of camels travelling 
by the road we were about to take, as the Turks had 
informed them that not even the donkeys could march 
through the thick jungles between Belignan and Ellyria. 

" All right, my brothers ! " I replied ; " then we'll march 
as far as the donkeys can go, and leave both them and 
the baggage on the road when they can go no farther ; but 
/ go forward." 

"With sullen discontent the men began to strap on 
their belts and cartouche boxes, and prepare for the start. 
The animals were loaded, and we moved slowly forward 
at 4.30 p.m. The country was lovely. The mountain of 
Belignan, although not exceeding 1,200 feet, is a fine mass 
of gneiss and syenite, ornamented in the hollows with 
fine trees, while the general appearance of the country 
at the base was that of a beautiful English park well 
timbered and beautified with distant mountains. We 
had just started with the Bari guide that I had engaged 
at Belignan, when we were suddenly joined by two 
of the Latookas whom I had seen when at Gondokoro, 
and to whom I had been very civil. It appeared that 
these fellows, who were acting as porters to the Turks, 
had been beaten, and had therefore absconded and joined 
me. This was extraordinary good fortune, as I now had 



Chap. IV.] ADVANTAGES OF DONKEYS. 95 

guides the whole way to Latooka, about ninety miles 
distant. I immediately gave them each a copper bracelet 
and some beads, and they very good-naturedly relieved 
the camels of one hundred pounds of copper rings, which 
they carried in two baskets on their heads. 

We now crossed the broad dry bed of a torrent, and 
the banks being steep, a considerable time was occupied 
in assisting the loaded animals in their descent. The 
donkeys were easily aided, their tails being held by two 
men, while they shuffled and slid down the sandy banks ; 
but every camel fell, and the loads had to be carried 
up the opposite bank by the men, and the camels to be 
reloaded on arrival. Here again the donkeys had the 
advantage, as without being unloaded they were assisted 
up the steep ascent by two men in front pulling at their 
ears, while others pushed behind. Altogether, the donkeys 
were far more suitable for the country, as they were more 
easily loaded. I had arranged their packs and saddles 
so well, that they carried their loads with the greatest 
comfort. Each animal had an immense pad well stuffed 
with goats' hair; this reached from the shoulder to the 
hip-bones ; upon this rested a simple form of saddle made 
of two forks of boughs inverted, and fastened together 
with rails — there were no nails in these saddles, all the 
fastenings being secured with thongs of raw hide. The 
great pad, projecting far both in front, behind, and also 
below the side of the saddle, prevented the loads from 
chafing the animal. Every donkey carried two large bags 
made of the hides of antelopes that I had formerly shot 
on the frontier of Abyssinia, and these were arranged with 
taggles on the one to fit into loops on the other, so that 
the loading and unloading was exceedingly simple. The 
success of an expedition depends mainly upon the per- 
fection of the details, and where animals are employed 
for transport, the first consideration should be bestowed 
upon saddles and packs. The facility of loading is all 
important, and I now had an exemplin* cation of its effect 
upon both animals and men; the latter began to abuse 
the camels and to curse the father of this, and the mother 



96 ADVICE FOR TRAVELLERS. [Chap. IV. 

of that, because they had the trouble of unloading them 
for the descent into the river's bed, while the donkeys 
were blessed with the endearing name of "my brother/' 
and alternately whacked with the stick. It was rather 
a bad commencement of a forced march, and the ravine we 
had crossed had been a cause of serious delay. Hardly 
were the animals reloaded and again ready for the march, 
when the men remembered that they had only one water- 
skin full. I had given orders before the start from 
Belignan that all should be filled. This is the unex- 
ceptional rule in African travelling — "fill your girbas 
before starting." Never mind what the natives may tell 
you concerning the existence of water on the road ; believe 
nothing ; but resolutely determine to fill the girbas ; — 
should you find water, there is no harm done if you are 
already provided : but nothing can exceed the improvidence 
of the people. To avoid the trouble of filling the girbas 
before starting, the men will content themselves with 
" Inshallah (please God), we shall find water on the road," 
and they frequently endure the greatest suffering from 
sheer idleness in neglecting a supply. 

They had in this instance persuaded themselves that 
the river we had just crossed would not be dry. Several 
of them had been employed in this country formerly, 
and because they had at one time found water in the 
sandv bed, they had concluded that it existed still. 
Accordingly they now wished to send parties to seek for 
water • this would entail a further delay, at a time when 
every minute was precious, as our fate depended upon 
reaching and passing through Ellyria before the arrival 
of the Turks. I was very anxious, and determined not 
to allow a moment's hesitation ; I therefore insisted upon 
an immediate advance, and resolved to march without 
stopping throughout the night. The Latooka guides ex- 
plained by signs that if we marched all night we should 
arrive at water on the following morning. This satisfied 
the men ; and we started. For some miles we passed 
through a magnificent forest of large trees : the path being 
remarkably good, the march looked propitious — this good 



Chap. IV.] A FORCED MARCH. 97 

fortune, however, was doomed to change. We shortly- 
entered upon thick thorny jungles; the path was so 
overgrown that the camels could scarcely pass under the, 
overhanging branches, and the leather bags of provisions 
piled upon their backs were soon ripped by the hooked 
thorns of the mimosa — the salt, rice, and coffee bags all 
sprang leaks, and small streams of these important stores 
issued from the rents, which the men attempted to repair 
by stuffing dirty rags into the holes. These thorns were 
shaped like fish-hooks, thus it appeared that the perishable 
baggage must soon become an utter wreck, as the great 
strength and weight of the camels bore all before them, 
and sometimes tore the branches from the trees, the thorns 
becoming fixed in the leather bags. Meanwhile the 
donkeys walked along in comfort, being so short that they 
and their loads were below the branches. 

I dreaded the approach of night. We were now at the 
foot of a range of high rocky hills, from which the torrents 
during the rainy season had torn countless ravines in their 
passage through the lower ground ; we were marching 
parallel to the range at the very base, thus we met every 
ravine at right angles. Down tumbled a camel; and 
away rolled his load of bags, pots, pans, boxes, &c. into 
the bottom of a ravine in a confused ruin. — Halt ! . . and 
the camel had to be raised and helped up the opposite 
bank, while the late avalanche of luggage was carried 
piecemeal after him to be again adjusted. To avoid a 
similar catastrophe the remaining three camels had to be 
unloaded, and reloaded when safe upon the opposite bank 
The operation of loading a camel with about 700 lbs. of 
luggage of indescribable variety is at all times tedious ; 
but no sooner had we crossed one ravine with difficulty 
than we arrived at another, and the same fatiguing oper- 
ation had to be repeated, with frightful loss of time at 
the moment when I believed the Turks were following 
on our path. 

My wife and I rode about a quarter of a mile at the 
head of the party as an advance guard, to warn the 
caravan of any difficulty. The very nature of the country 

H 



98 DMJFS ON THE ROAD. [Chap. IV. 

declared that it must be full of ravines, and yet I could 
not help hoping against hope that we might have a clear 
mile of road without a break. The evening had passed, 
and the light faded. What had been difficult and tedious 
during the day, now became most serious ; — we could not 
see the branches of hooked thorns that overhung the 
broken path ; I rode in advance, my face and arms bleeding 
with countless scratches, while at each rip of a thorn I 
gave a warning shout — " Thorn ! " for those behind, and a 
cry of " Hole ! " for any deep rut that lay in the path. It 
was fortunately moonlight, but the jungle was so thick 
that the narrow track was barely perceptible ; thus both 
camels and donkeys ran against the trunks of trees, 
smashing the luggage, and breaking all that could be 
broken; nevertheless, the case was urgent; march we 
must, at all hazards. 

My heart sank whenever we came to a deep ravine, or 
Hor; the warning cry of "halt" told those in the rear 
that once more the camels must be unloaded, and the 
same fatiguing operation must be repeated. Eor hours we 
marched : the moon was sinking ; the path, already dark, 
grew darker ; the animals overloaded, even for a good road, 
were tired out; and the men were disheartened, thirsty, 
and disgusted. I dismounted from my horse and loaded 
him with sacks, to relieve a camel that was perfectly 
done — but on we marched. Every one was silent; the 
men were too tired to speak ; and through the increasing 
gloom we crept slowly forward. Suddenly another ravine, 
but not so deep; and we trusted that the camels might 
cross it without the necessity of unloading; — down went 
the leading camel, rolling completely over with his load to 
the bottom. Now, the boy Saat was the drummer; but 
being very tired, he had come to the conclusion that the 
drum would travel quite as easily upon a camel's back as 
upon his shoulders ; he had accordingly slung it upon the 
very camel that had now performed a somersault and solo 
on the drum. The musical instrument was picked up in 
the shape of a flat dish, and existed no longer as a drum, 
every note having been squeezed out of it. The donkey is 



Chap. IV.] CLEVERNESS OF THE DONKEYS. 99 

a much more calculating animal than the camel, the latter 
being an excessively stupid beast, while the former is 
remarkably clever — at least I can answer for the ability of 
the Egyptian species. The expression " what an ass ! " is 
in Europe supposed to be slightly insulting, but a com- 
parison with the Egyptian variety would be a compliment. 
Accordingly my train of donkeys, being calculating and 
reasoning creatures, had from this night's experience come 
to the conclusion that the journey was long ; that the road 
was full of ravines ; that the camels who led the way 
would assuredly tumble into these ravines unless unloaded • 
and that as the reloading at each ravine would occupy at 
least half an hour, it would be wise for them (the donkeys) 
to employ that time in going to sleep — therefore, as it was 
just as cheap to lie down as to stand, they preferred a 
recumbent posture, and a refreshing roll upon the sandy 
ground. Accordingly, whenever the word "halt" was 
given, the clever donkeys thoroughly understood their 
advantage, and the act of unloading a camel on arrival at a 
ravine was a signal sufficient to induce each of twenty-one 
donkeys to lie down. It was in vain that the men beat 
and swore at them to keep them on their legs ; the donkeys 
were determined, and lie down they would. This obstinacy 
on their part was serious to the march — every time that 
they lay down they shifted their loads ; some of the most 
wilful persisted in rolling, and of course upset their packs. 
There were only seventeen men, and these were engaged in 
assisting the camels ; thus the twenty-one donkeys had it 
all their own way ; and what added to the confusion was 
the sudden cry of hyenas in close proximity, which so 
frightened the donkeys that they immediately sprang to 
their feet, with their packs lying discomfited, entangled 
among their legs. Thus, no sooner were the camels re- 
loaded on the other side of the ravine, than all the 
donkeys had to undergo the same operation; — during 
which time the camels, however stupid, having observed 
the donkeys' " dodge," took the opportunity of lying down 
also, and necessarily shifted their loads. The women were 
therefore ordered to hold the camels, to prevent them from 

H2 



100 IMPROVIDENCE OF MONKEY. [Chap. IV. 

lying down while the donkeys were being reloaded; but 
the women were dead tired, as they had been carrying 
loads ; they themselves laid down, and it being dark, they 
were not observed until a tremendous scream was heard, 
and we found that a camel had lain down on the top of a 
woman who had been placed to watch it, but who had 
herself fallen asleep. The camel was with difficulty raised, 
and the woman dragged from beneath. Everything was 
tired out. I had been working like a slave to assist, and 
to cheer the men ; I was also fatigued. We had marched 
from 4.30 p.m. — it was now 1 am. ; we had thus been 
eight hours and a half struggling along the path. The 
moon had sunk, and the complete darkness rendered a 
further advance impossible; I therefore, on arrival at a 
large plateau of rock, ordered the animals to be unloaded, 
and both man and beast to rest. The people had no water ; 
I had a girba full for Mrs. Baker and myself, which was 
always slung on my saddle; this precaution I never 
neglected. 

The men were hungry. Before leaving Gondokoro I 
had ordered a large quantity of kisras (black pancakes) to 
be prepared for the march, and they were packed in a 
basket that had been carried on a camel; unfortunately 
Mrs. Baker's pet monkey had been placed upon the same 
camel, and he had amused himself during the night's 
march by feasting and filling his cheeks with the kisras, 
and throwing the remainder away when his hunger was 
satisfied. There literally was not a kisra remaining in the 
basket. 

Every one lay down supperless to sleep. Although 
tired, I could not rest until I had arranged some plan for 
the morrow. It was evident that we could not travel over 
so rough a country with the animals thus overloaded ; I 
therefore determined to leave in the jungle such articles 
as could be dispensed with, and to re-arrange all the loads. 

At 4 A.M. I woke, and lighting a lamp, I tried in vain 
to wake any of the men who lay stretched upon the 
ground, like so many corpses, sound asleep. At length 
Saat sat up, and after rubbing his eyes for about ten 



Chap. IV.] NAUVE TIT-BITS. 10J 

minutes, he made a me, and began to boil the coffee ; 
meanwhile I was hard at work lightening the ship. I 
threw away abont 100 lbs. of salt; divided the heavy 
ammunition more equally among the animals; rejected 
a quantity of odds and ends that, although most useful, 
could be forsaken ; and by the time the men woke, a little 
before sunrise, I had completed the work. "We now re- 
loaded the animals, who showed the improvement by 
stepping out briskly. We marched well for three hours 
at a pace that bid fair to keep us well ahead of the Turks, 
and at length we reached the dry bed of a stream, where 
the Latooka guides assured us we should obtain water by 
digging. This proved correct; but the holes were dug 
deep in several places, and hours passed before we could 
secure a sufficient supply for all the men and animals 
The great sponging-bath was excessively useful, as it 
formed a reservoir out of which all the animals could 
drink. 

While we were thus engaged some natives appeared 
carrying with them the head of a wild boar in a horrible 
state of decomposition, and alive with maggots. On 
arrival at the drinking-place they immediately lighted a 
fire, and proceeded to cook their savoury pork by placing 
it in the flames. The skull becoming too hot for the 
inmates, crowds of maggots rushed pele-mele from the ears 
and nostrils like people escaping from the doors of a 
theatre on fire. The natives merely tapped the skull with 
a stick to assist in their exit, and proceeded with their 
cooking until completed ; after which they ate the whole, 
and sucked the bones. However putrid meat may be, it 
does not appear to affect the health of these people. 

My animals requiring rest and food, I was obliged to 
wait unwillingly until 4.30 p.m. The natives having 
finished their boar's head, offered to join us ; and accord- 
ingly we rode on a considerable distance ahead of our 
people with our active guides, while the caravan followed 
slowly behind us. After ascending for about a mile 
through jungle, we suddenly emerged upon an eminence, 
and looked down upon the valley of Tollogo. This was 



102 SURROUNDED BY NATIVES. [Chap. IV. 

extremely picturesque. An abrupt wall of grey granite 
rose on the east side of the valley to a height of about 
a thousand feet : from this perpendicular wall huge blocks 
had fallen, strewing the base with a confused mass of 
granite lumps ten to forty feet in diameter; and among 
these natural fortresses of disjointed masses were numerous 
villages. The bottom of the valley was a meadow, in 
which grew several enormous fig-trees by the side of a 
sluggish, and in some places stagnant, brook. The valley 
was not more than half a mile wide, and was also walled 
in by mountains on the west, having the appearance of a 
vast street. 

We were now about a mile ahead of our party; but 
accompanied by our two Latooka guides, and upon de- 
scending to the valley and crossing a deep gully, we soon 
arrived beneath a -large fig-tree at the extremity of the 
vale. No sooner was our presence observed than crowds 
of natives issued from the numerous villages among the 
rocks, and surrounded us. They were all armed with bows 
and arrows and lances, and were very excited at seeing the 
horses, which to them were unknown animals. Dismount- 
ing, I fastened the horses to a bush, and we sat down on 
the grass under a tree. 

There were five or six hundred natives pressing round 
us. They were excessively noisy, hallooing to us as though 
we" were deaf, simply because we did not understand them, 
rinding that they were pressing rudely around us, I made 
signs to them to stand off, when at that moment a 
curiously ugly, short, humped-back fellow came forward 
and addressed me in broken Arabic. I was delighted to 
find an interpreter, and requesting him to tell the crowd 
to stand back, I inquired for their chief. The humpback 
spoke very little Arabic, nor did the crowd appear to heed 
him, but they immediately stole a spear that one of my 
Latooka guides had placed against the tree under which 
we were sitting. It was getting rather unpleasant ; but 
having my revolver and a double-barrelled rifle in my 
hands, there was no fear of their being stolen. 

In reply to a question to the humpback, he asked me 



Chap. IV.] RECOGNITION OF TEE CHIEF. 103 

" Who I was ?" I explained that I was a traveller. " You 
want ivory ? " he said. " No," I answered, " it is of no use 
to me." " Ah, you want slaves ! " he replied. " Neither 
do I want slaves," I answered. This was followed by a 
burst of laughter from the crowd, and the humpback con- 
tinued his examination. " Have you got plenty of cows ? " 
" Not one ; but plenty of beads and copper." " Plenty % 
Where are they ? " " Not far off ; they will be here 
presently with my men ; " and I pointed to the direction 
from which they would arrive. "What countryman are 
you ? " " An Englishman." He had never heard of such 
people. " You are a Turk ? " "All right," I replied ; " I 
am anything you like." " And that is your son ? " (pointing 
at Mrs. Baker.) " No, she is my wife." " Your wife ! 
What a He ! He is a boy." " Not a bit of it," I replied ; 
" she is my wife, who has come with me to see the women 
of this country." " What a lie ! " he again politely re- 
joined in the one expressive Arabic word, " Katab." 

After this charmingly frank conversation he addressed 
the crowd, explaining, I suppose, that I was endeavouring 
to pass off a boy for a woman. Mrs. Baker was dressed 
similarly to myself, in a pair of loose trowsers and gaiters, 
with a blouse and belt — the only difference being that she 
wore long sleeves, while my arms were bare from a few 
inches below the shoulder. I always kept my arms bare, 
as being cooler than if covered. 

The curiosity of the crowd was becoming impertinent, 
when at an opportune moment the chief appeared. To 
my astonishment I recognised him as a man who had often 
visited me at Gondokoro, to whom I had given many 
presents without knowing his position. 

In a few moments he drove away the crowd, screaming 
and gesticulating at them as though greatly insulted ; re- 
serving the humpback as interpreter, he apologized for the 
rudeness of his people. Just at this instant I perceived, 
in the distance, the English flag leading the caravan of 
camels and donkeys from the hillside into the valley, and 
my people and baggage shortly arrived. The chief now 
brought me a large pumpkin-shell containing about a 



104 INTEREST OF NATIVES. [Chap. IV. 

gallon of merissa, or native beer, which, was most refresh- 
ing. He also brought a gourd-bottle full of honey, and an 
elephant's tusk; the latter I declined, as ivory was not 
required. 

We were now within six miles of Ellyria, and by means 
of the humpback I explained to Tomb6, the chief, that we 
wished to start the first thing in the morning, and that 
I would engage the humpback as interpreter. This was 
agreed upon, and I now had hopes of getting through 
Ellyria before the arrival of the Turks. My caravan 
having arrived, the interest first bestowed upon the horses, 
as being a new kind of animal, was now transferred to the 
camels. The natives crowded round them, exclaiming, 
" that they were the giraffes of our country." They were 
amazed at the loads that they carried, and many assisted 
in unloading. 

I noticed, however, that they stuck their fingers through 
the baskets to investigate the contents; and when they 
perceived twenty baskets full of beads, and many of 
copper bracelets — the jingling of which betrayed the 
contents — they became rather too eager in lending a 
helping hand ; therefore I told the chief to order his men 
, to retire while I opened one bag of beads to give him a 
present. I had a bag always in reserve that contained a 
variety of beads and bracelets, which obviated the necessity 
of owning one of the large baskets on the road. I 
accordingly made the chief happy, and also gave a present 
to the humpback. The crowd now discovered an object 
of fresh interest, and a sudden rush was made to the 
monkey, which, being one of the red variety from 
Abyssinia, was quite unknown to them. The monkey, 
being far more civilized than these naked savages, did not 
at all enjoy their society ; and attacking the utterly unpro- 
tected calves of their legs, "Wallady" soon kept his 
admirers at a distance, and amused himself by making 
insulting grimaces, which kept the crowd in a roar of 
laughter. I often found this monkey of great use in 
diverting the attention of the savages from myself. He 
was also a guarantee of my peaceful intentions, as no one 



Chap. IV.] WE LEAVE TOLLOGO. 105 

intending hostility would travel about with a monkey as 
one of the party. He was so tame and affectionate to 
both of us that he was quite unhappy if out of sight of 
his mistress : but he frequently took rough liberties with 
the blacks, for whom he had so great an aversion and 
contempt that he would have got into sad trouble at 
Exeter Hall. " Wallady " had no idea of a naked savage 
being " a man and a brother." 

That night we slept soundly, both men and beasts being 
thoroughly fatigued. The natives seemed to be aware of 
this, and a man was caught in the act of stealing copper 
bracelets from a basket. He had crept like a cat upon 
hands and knees to the spot where the luggage was piled, 
and the sleepy sentry had not observed him. 

There was no drum-call on the following morning, that 
useful instrument having been utterly smashed by the 
camel ; but I woke the men early, and told them to be 
most careful in arranging the loads securely, as we had to 
thread the rocky pass between Tollogo and Ellyria. I felt 
sure that the Turks could not be far behind us, and I 
looked forward with anxiety to getting through the pass 
before them. 

The natives of both Tollogo and Ellyria are the same in 
appearance and language as the Bari ; they are very brutal 
in manner, and they collected in large crowds on our 
departure, with by no means a friendly aspect. Many of 
them ran on ahead under the base of the rocks, apparently 
to give notice at Ellyria of our arrival. I had three men 
as an advance guard, — five or six in the rear, — while the 
remainder drove the animals. Mrs. Baker and I rode on 
horseback at the head of the party. On arriving at the 
extremity of the narrow valley we had to thread our way 
through the difficult pass. The mountain of Ellyria, 
between two and three thousand feet high, rose abruptly 
on our left, while the base was entirely choked with 
enormous fragments of grey granite that, having fallen 
from the face of the mountain, had completely blocked the 
pass. Even the horses had great difficulty in threading 
their way through narrow alleys formed of opposing 



106 A RJ-CE FOR ELLYRIA. [Chap. IV. 

blocks, and it appeared impossible for loaded camels to 
proceed. The path was not only thus obstructed, but was 
broken by excessively deep ravines formed by the torrents 
that during the rains tore everything before them in their 
impetuous descent from the mountains. To increase the 
difficulties of the pass many trees and bushes were 
growing from the interstices of the rocks ; thus in places 
where the long legs of the camels could have cleared a 
narrow cleft, the loads became jammed between the trees. 
These trees were for the most part intensely hard wood, a 
species of lignum vitse, called by the Arabs " babanoose," 
and were quite proof against our axes. Had the natives 
been really hostile they could have exterminated us in five 
minutes, as it was only necessary to hurl rocks from above 
to insure our immediate destruction. It was in this spot 
that a trader's party of 126 men, well armed, had been 
massacred to a man the year previous. 

Bad as the pass was, we had hope before us, as the 
Latookas explained that beyond this spot there was level 
and unbroken ground the whole way to Latooka. Could 
we only clear Ellyria before the Turks I had no fear for 
the present; but at the very moment when success de- 
pended upon speed, we were thus baffled by the difficulties 
of the ground. I therefore resolved to ride on in advance 
of my party, leaving them to overcome the difficulties of the 
pass* by constantly unloading the animals, while I would 
reconnoitre in front, as Ellyria was not far distant. My 
wife and I accordingly rode on, accompanied only by one 
of the Latookas as a guide. After turning a sharp angle 
of the mountain, leaving the cliff abruptly rising to the 
left from the narrow path, we descended a ravine worse 
than any place we had previously encountered, and we 
were obliged to dismount, in order to lead our horses up 
the steep rocks on the opposite side. On arrival on the 
summit, a lovely view burst upon us. The valley of 
Ellyria was about four hundred feet below, at about a mile 
distant. Beautiful mountains, some two or three thousand 
feet high, of grey granite, walled in the narrow vale ; while 
the landscape of forest and plain was bounded at about 



Chap. IV.] ELLYMAN VILLAGES PALISADED, 107 

fifty or sixty miles' distance to the east by the blue 
mountains of Latooka. The mountain of Ellyria was the 
commencement of the fine range that continued indefinitely 
to the south. We were now in the very gorge of that 
chain. Below us, in the valley, I observed some pro- 
digious trees growing close to a Hor (ravine), in which 
was running water, and the sides of the valley under the 
mountains being as usual a mass of debris of huge detached 
rocks, were thronged with villages, all strongly fortified 
with thick bamboo palisades. The whole country was a 
series of natural forts, occupied by a large population. 

A glance at the scene before me was quite sufficient ; — 
to fight a way through a valley a quarter of a mile wide, 
hemmed in by high walls of rock and bristling with lances 
and arrows, would be impossible with my few men, en- 
cumbered by transport animals. Should the camels arrive, 
I could march into Ellyria in twenty minutes, make the 
chief a large present, and pass on without halting until I 
cleared the Ellyria valley. At any rate I was well before 
the Turks, and the forced march at night, however distress- 
ing, had been successful. The great difficulty now lay in 
the ravine that we had just crossed ; this would assuredly 
delay the caravan for a considerable time. 

Tying our horses to a bush, we sat upon a rock beneath 
the shade of a small tree within ten paces of the path, and 
considered the best course to pursue. I hardly liked to 
risk an advance into Ellyria alone, before the arrival of my 
whole party, as we had been very rudely received by the 
Tollogo people on the previous evening; — nevertheless I 
thought it might be good policy to ride unattended into 
Ellyria, and thus to court an introduction to the chief. 
However, our consultation ended in a determination to 
wait where we then were, until the caravan should have 
accomplished the last difficulty by crossing the ravine; 
when we would all march into Ellyria in company. For a 
long time we sat gazing at the valley before us in which, 
our fate lay hidden, feeling thankful that we had thus 
checkmated the brutal Turks. Not a sound was heard of 
our approaching camels; the delay was most irksome. 



108 OUTMARCHED BY THE TURKS. [Chap. IV. 

There were many difficult places that we had passed 
through, and each would he a source of serious delay to 
the animals. 

At length we heard them in the distance. We could 
distinctly hear the men's voices; and we rejoiced that 
they were approaching the last remaining obstacle ; — that 
one ravine passed through, and all before would be easy. 
I heard the rattling of the stones as they drew nearer; and, 
looking towards the ravine, I saw emerge from the dark 
foliage of the trees within fifty yards of us the hated red 
flag and crescent, leading the Turks' party ! We were out- 
marched ! 

One by one, with scowling looks, the insolent scoundrels 
filed by us within a few feet, without making the cus- 
tomary salaam ; neither noticing us in any way, except by 
threatening to shoot the Latooka, our guide, who had 
formerly accompanied them. 

Their party consisted of a hundred and forty men armed 
with guns ; while about twice as many Latookas acted as 
porters, carrying beads, ammunition, and the general effects 
of the party. It appeared that we were hopelessly beaten. 

However, I determined to advance, at all hazards, on the 
arrival of my party; and should the Turks incite the 
Ellyria tribe to attack us, I intended, in the event of a 
fight, to put the first shot through the leader. To be thus 
beaten, at the last moment, was unendurable. Boiling 
with indignation as the insolent wretches filed past, treat- 
ing me with the contempt of a dog, I longed for the 
moment of action, no matter what were the odds against us. 
At length their leader, Ibrahim, appeared in the rear of the 
party. He was riding on a donkey, being the last of the 
line, behind the flag that closed the march. 

I never saw a more atrocious countenance than that ex- 
hibited in this man. A mixed breed, between a Turk sire 
and Arab mother, he had the good features and bad 
qualities of either race. The fine, sharp, high-arched nose 
and large nostril; the pointed and projecting chin; rather 
high cheek-bones and prominent brow, overhanging a pair 
of immense black eyes full of expression of all evil As he 



Chap. IV.] DIPLOMACY. 109 

approached lie took no notice of us, but studiously looked 
straight before him with the most determined insolence. 

The fate of the expedition was, at this critical moment, 
retrieved by Mrs. Baker. She implored me to call him, to 
insist upon a personal explanation, and to offer him some 
present in the event of establishing amicable relations. I 
could not condescend to address the sullen scoundrel. He 
was in the act of passing us, and success depended upon 
that instant. Mrs. Baker herself called him. For the 
moment he made no reply; but, upon my repeating the 
call in a loud key, he turned his donkey towards us and 
dismounted. I ordered him to sit down, as his men were 
ahead and we were alone. 

The following dialogue passed between us after the 
usual Arab mode of greeting. I said, " Ibrahim, why 
should we be enemies in the midst of this hostile country ? 
We believe in the same God, why should we quarrel in 
this land of heathens, who believe in no God ? You have 
your work to perform ; I have mine. You want ivory ; I 
am a simple traveller ; why should we clash ? If I were 
offered the whole ivory of the country, I would not accept 
a single tusk, nor interfere with you in any way. Transact 
your business, and don't interfere with me : the country is 
wide enough for us both. I have a task before me, to 
reach a great lake — the head of the Nile. Eeach it I will 
(Inshallah). No power shall drive me back. If you are 
hostile, I will imprison you in Khartoum; if you assist 
me, I will reward you far beyond any reward you have 
ever received. Should I be killed in this country, you will 
be suspected ; you know the result ; the Government 
would hang you on the bare suspicion. On the contrary, 
if you are friendly, I will use my influence in any country 
that I discover, that you may procure its ivory for the 
sake of your master Koorshid, who was generous to 
Captains Speke and Grant, and kind to me. Should you 
be hostile, I shall hold your master responsible as your 
employer. Should you assist me, I will befriend you 
both. Choose your course frankly, like a man — friend or 
enemy ? " 



HO PEACE ESTABLISHED. [Chap. IV. 

Before lie had time to reply, Mrs. Baker addressed him 
much in the same strain, telling him that he did not know 
what Englishmen were ; that nothing would drive them 
hack; that the British Government watched over them 
wherever they might he, and that no outrage could be 
committed with impunity upon a British subject. That I 
would not deceive him in any way ; that I was not a trader ; 
and that I should be able to assist him materially by 
discovering new countries rich in ivory, and that he would 
benefit himself personally by civil conduct. 

He seemed confused, and wavered. I immediately 
promised him a new double-barrelled gun and some 
gold, when my party should arrive, as an earnest of the 
future. 

He replied, " That he did not himself wish to be hostile, 
but that all the trading parties, without one exception, 
were against me, and that the men were convinced that 
I was a consul in disguise, who would report to the au- 
thorities at Khartoum all the proceedings of the traders." 
He continued, " That he believed me, but that his men 
would not ; that all people told lies in their country, there- 
fore no one was credited for the truth. However," said he, 
" do not associate with my people, or they may insult you, 
but go and take possession of that large tree (pointing to one 
in the valley of Ellyria) for yourself and people, and I will 
come there and speak with you. I will now join my men, 
as I do not wish them to know that I have been con- 
versing with you." He then made a salaam, mounted his 
donkey, and rode off. 

I had won him. I knew the Arab character so 
thoroughly that I was convinced that the tree he had 
pointed out, followed by the words, " I will come there 
and speak to you," was to be the rendezvous for the receipt 
of the promised gun and money. 

I did not wait for the arrival of my men, but mounting 
our horses, my wife and I rode down the hillside with 
lighter spirits than we had enjoyed for some time past. 
I gave her the entire credit of the " ruse." Had I been 
alone, I should have been too proud to have sought the 



Chap. IV.] LEGGE, TEE CHIEF OF ELLTRIA. \ \ \ 

friendship of the sullen trader, and the moment on which 
success depended would have been lost. 

On arrival at the grassy plain at the foot of the moun- 
tain, there was a crowd of the trader's ruffians quarrelling 
for the shade of a few large trees that grew on the banks 
of the stream. We accordingly dismounted, and turning 
the horses to graze, we took possession of a tree at some 
distance, under which a number of Latookas were already 
sitting. Not being very particular as to our society, we 
sat down and waited for the arrival of our party. The 
valley of Ellyria was a lovely spot in the very bosom of 
the mountains. Close to where we sat were the great 
masses of rock that had fallen from the cliffs, and upon 
examination I found them to be the finest quality of grey 
granite, the feldspar being in masses several inches square 
and as hard as a flint. There was no scaling upon the 
surface, as is common in granite rocks. 

No sooner had the trader's party arrived than crowds of 
natives issued from the palisaded villages on the mountain ; 
and descending to the plain, they mingled with the general 
confusion. The baggage was piled beneath a tree, and a 
sentry placed on guard. 

The natives were entirely naked, and precisely the same 
as the Bari. Their chief, Legge, was among them, and re- 
ceived a present from Ibrahim of a long red cotton shirt, and 
he assumed an air of great importance. Ibrahim explained 
to him who I was, and he immediately came to ask for the 
tribute he expected to receive as "black mail" for the 
right of entree into his country. Of all the villanous 
countenances that I have ever seen, that of Legge excelled. 
Ferocity, avarice, and sensuality were stamped upon his 
face, and I immediately requested him to sit for Ms por- 
trait, and in about ten minutes I succeeded in placing 
within my portfolio an exact likeness of about the greatest 
rascal that exists in Central Africa. 

I had now the satisfaction of seeing my caravan slowly 
winding down the hillside in good order, having sur- 
mounted all their difficulties. 

Upon arrival, my men were perfectly astonished at 






J 12 



PRESENTS TO LEGGE. 



[Chap. IV. 



seeing us so near the trader's party, and still more con- 
founded at my sending for Ibrahim to summon him to my 
tree, where I presented him with some English sovereigns 
and a double-barrelled gun. Nothing escapes the inquisi- 
tiveness of these Arabs ; and the men of both parties 
quickly perceived that I had established an alliance in 
some unaccountable manner with Ibrahim. I saw the gun, 
lately presented to him, being handed from one to the 
other for examination; and both my vakeel and men 
appeared utterly confused at the sudden change. 




LEGGE THE CHIEF. 



The chief of Ellyria now came to inspect my luggage, 
and demanded fifteen heavy copper bracelets and a large 
quantity of beads. The bracelets most in demand are 
simple rings of copper fths of an inch thick, and weighing 
about a pound ; those of smaller size not being so much 
valued. I gave him fifteen such rings, and about ten 
pounds of beads in varieties, the red coral porcelain 
(dimiriaf) being the most acceptable. Legge was by no 
means satisfied : he said " his belly was very big and it 
must be filled," which signified, that his desire was great 
and must be gratified. I accordingly gave him a few extra 



Chap. IV.] VIOLENT STORM. 113 

copper rings ; but suddenly he smelt spirits, one of the few 
bottles that I possessed of spirits of wine having broken in 
the medicine chest. Ibrahim begged me to give him a 
bottle to put him in a good humour, as he enjoyed nothing 
so much as araki ; I accordingly gave him a pint bottle of the 
strongest spirits of wine. To my amazement he broke off 
the neck, and holding his head well back, he deliberately 
allowed the whole of the contents to trickle down his 
throat as innocently as though it had been simple water. 
He was thoroughly accustomed to it, as the traders were in 
the habit of bringing him presents of araki every season. 
He declared this to be excellent, and demanded another 
bottle. At that moment a violent storm of thunder and 
rain burst upon us with a fury well known in the 
tropics ; the rain fell like a waterspout, and the throng 
immediately fled for shelter. So violent was the storm, 
that not a man was to be seen : some were sheltering 
themselves under the neighbouring rocks ; while others 
ran to their villages that were close by; the trader's 
people commenced a fusilade, firing off all their guns lest 
they should get wet and miss fire. I could not help think- 
ing how completely they were at the mercy of the natives 
at that moment, had they chosen to attack them; the 
trader's party were lying under their untanned ox-hides 
with their empty guns. Each of my men was provided 
with a piece of mackintosh, with which his gunlocks were 
secured. We lay upon an angarep covered with a bull's 
hide until the storm was over. The thunder was magni- 
ficent, exploding on the peak of the mountain exactly 
above us, and in the course of a quarter of an hour torrents 
were rushing down the ravines among the rocks, the effects 
of the violent storm that had passed away as rapidly as it 
had arrived. 

No sooner had it ceased than the throng again appeared. 
Once more the chief, Legged was before us begging for 
all that we had. Although the natives asked for beads, 
they would give nothing in exchange, and we could pur- 
chase nothing for any article except molotes. These iron 
hoes are made principally in this country : thus it appeared 

L 



1 ] 4 GREEDINESS OF LEGGE. [Chap. IV 

strange that they should demand them. Legge* does a 
large business with these hoes, sending them into the 
Berri and Galla countries to the east, with various beads 
and copper bracelets, to purchase ivory. Although there are 
very few elephants in the neighbourhood of Ellyria, there 
is an immense amount of ivory, as the chief is so great- 
a trader that he accumulates it to exchange with the Turks 
for cattle. Although he sells it so dear that he demands 
twenty cows for a large tusk, it is a convenient station for 
the traders, as, being near to Gondokoro, there is very 
little trouble in delivering the ivory on shipboard. 

Although I had presented Legge with what he desired, 
he would give nothing in return, neither would he sell 
either goats or fowls ; in fact, no provision was procurable 
except honey. I purchased about eight pounds of this 
luxury for a hoe. My men were starving, and I was 
obliged to serve them out rice from my sacred stock, as 
I had nothing else to give them. This they boiled and 
mixed with honey, and they were shortly sitting round an 
immense circular bowl of this rarity, enjoying themselves 
thoroughly, but nevertheless grumbling as usual. In the 
coolest manner possible the great and greedy chief, Legge, 
who had refused to give or even to sell anything to keep 
us from starving, no sooner saw the men at their novel 
repast than he sat down among them and almost choked 
himself by cramming handfuls of the hot rice and honey 
into his mouth, which yawned like that of an old hippo- 
potamus. The men did not at all approve of this assist- 
ance, but as it is the height of bad manners in Arab 
etiquette to repel a self-invited guest from the general 
meal, he was not interfered with, and was thus enabled to 
swallow the share of about three persons. 

Legge, although worse than the rest of his tribe, had 
a similar formation of head. The Bari and those of 
Tollogo and Ellyria have generally bullet-shaped heads, 
low foreheads, skulls heavy behind the ears and above the 
nape of the neck: altogether their appearance is exces- 
sively brutal, and they are armed with bows six feet long, 
and arrows horribly barbed and poisoned. 



CHAPTEE V. 

LEAVE ELLYRIA. 

ALTHOUGH Ellyria was a rich and powerful country, 
we had not been able to procure any provisions — the 
natives refused to sell, and their general behaviour was such 
that assured me of their capability of any atrocity had 
they been prompted to attack us by the Turks. Fortunately 
we had a good supply of meal that had been prepared for 
the journey prior to our departure from Gondokoro : thus 
we could not starve. I also had a sack of corn for the 
animals, a necessary precaution, as at this season there 
was not a blade of grass ; all in the vicinity of the route 
having been burnt. 

We started on the 30th March, at 7.30 A.M., and opened 
from the valley of Ellyria upon a perfectly flat country 
interspersed with trees. After an hour's march we halted 
at a small stream of bad water. We had kisras and honey 
for breakfast ; but, for several days not having tasted meat, 
I took the rifle for a stroll through the forest in search 
of game. After an hour's ramble I returned without 
having fired a shot. I had come upon fresh tracks of 
Tetel (hartebeest) and guinea-fowl, but they had evidently 
come down to the stream to drink, and had wandered 
back into the interior. If game was scarce, fruit was 
plentiful — both Eicharn and I were loaded with a species 
of yellow plum as large as an egg; these grew in pro- 
digious numbers upon fine forest trees, beneath which the 
ground was yellow with the quantities that had fallen 
from the boughs ; these were remarkably sweet, and yet 
acid, with much juice, and a very delicious flavour. 

At 11.25 we again started for a long march, our course 
being east. The ground was most favourable for the 
animals, being perfectly flat and free from ravines. We 

12 



116 BRUTALITY TOWARDS THE WOMEN. [Chap. V. 

accordingly stepped along at a brisk pace, and the intense 
heat of the sun throughout the hottest hours of the day 
made the journey fatiguing for all but the camels. The 
latter were excellent of their class, and now far excelled 
the other transport animals, marching along with ease 
under loads of about 600 lbs. each. 

My caravan was at the rear of the trader's party ; but 
the ground being good, we left our people and cantered on 
to the advanced flag. It was curious to witness the motley 
assemblage in single file extending over about half a mile 
of ground : — several of the people were mounted on 
donkeys ; some on oxen : the most were on foot, including 
all the women to the number of about sixty, who were 
the slaves of the trader's people. These carried heavy 
loads ; and many, in addition to the burdens, carried chil- 
dren strapped to their backs in leather slings. After four 
or five hours' march during .the intense heat many of the 
overloaded women showed symptoms of distress, and 
became footsore ; — the grass having been recently burnt 
had left the sharp charred stumps, which were very trying 
to those whose sandals were not in the best condition. 
The women were forced along by their brutal owners with 
sharp blows of the coorbatch ; and one who was far ad- 
vanced in pregnancy could at length go no farther. Upon 
this the savage to whom she belonged belaboured her with 
a large stick, and not succeeding in driving her before him, 
he knocked her down and jumped upon her. The woman's 
feet were swollen and bleeding, but later in the day I 
again saw her hobbling along in the rear by the aid of 
a bamboo. 

The traders march in good form; one flag leads the 
party, guarded by eight or ten men, while a native carries 
a box of five hundred cartridges for their use in case of 
an attack. The porters and baggage follow in single file, 
soldiers being at intervals to prevent them from running 
away; in which case the runner is invariably fired at. 
The supply of ammunition is in the centre, carried gene- 
rally by about fifteen natives, and strongly escorted by 
guards. The rear of the party is closed by another flag, 



Chap. V.] CONVERSATION WITH IBRAHIM. \\7 

behind which no straggler is permitted. The rear flag is 
also guarded by six or eight men, with a box of spare 
ammunition. With these arrangements the party is always 
ready to support an attack. 

Ibrahim, my new ally, was now riding in front of the' 
line, carrying on his saddle before him a pretty little girl, 
his daughter, a child of a year and a half old ; her mother, 
a remarkably pretty Bari girl, one of his numerous wives, 
was riding behind him on an ox. We soon got into con- 
versation ; — a few pieces of sugar given to the child and 
mother by Mrs. Baker was a sweet commencement ; and 
Ibrahim then told me to beware of my own men, as he 
knew they did not intend to remain with me ; that they 
were a different tribe from his men, and they would join 
Chenooda's people and desert me on our arrival at then* 
station in Latooka. This was a corroboration of all I had 
heard previous to leaving Gondokoro, therefore I had the 
promised mutiny in perspective. I had noticed that my 
men were even more sullen than usual since I had joined 
Ibrahim ; however, I succeeded in convincing him that he 
would benefit so decidedly by an alliance with me, that he 
now frankly told me that I should receive no opposition 
from his party. So far all had prospered beyond my most 
sanguine expectations. We were fairly launched upon our 
voyage, and now that we were in the wild interior, I 
determined to crush the mutiny with an iron hand should 
the rascals attempt to carry their murderous threats into 
execution. Two or three of the men appeared willing, 
but the original ringleader, " Bellaal," would literally do 
nothing, not even assisting at loading the animals; but 
swaggering about with the greatest insolence. 

After a fatiguing march of eight hours and ten minutes 
through a perfectly flat country interspersed with trees, we 
halted at a little well of excessively bad water at 7.35 p.m. 
The horses were so much in advance that the main party 
did not arrive until 11 p.m. completely fatigued. The 
night being fine, we slept on a hillock of sand a few yards 
from the well, rejoiced to be away from the mosquitoes oi 
Gondokoro. 



1 18 GAME AT WAKKALA. [Chap. V. 

£)n the following morning we started at sunrise, and in 
two hours' fast marching we arrived at the Kanieti river. 
Although there had "been no rain, the stream was very 
rapid and up to the girths of the horses at the ford. The 
"banks were very abrupt and about fifteen feet deep, the 
bed between forty and fifty yards wide ; thus a considerable 
volume of water is carried down to the river Sobat by this 
river during the rains. The whole drainage of the country 
tends to the east, and accordingly flows into the Sobat. 
The range of mountains running south from Ellyria is the 
watershed between the east and west drainage ; the Sobat 
receiving it on the one hand, and the White Nile on the 
other, while the Nile eventually receives the entire flow by 
the Sobat, as previously mentioned, in lat. 9° 22'. 

Having scrambled up the steep bank of the Kanieti 
river, we crossed a large field of dhurra, and arrived at the 
village of Wakkala, The village, or town, is composed of 
about seven hundred houses, the whole being most strongly 
protected by a system of palisades formed of " babanoose," 
the hard iron wood of the country. Not only is it thus 
fortified, but the palisades are also protected by a hedge of 
impervious thorns that grow to a height of about twenty 
feet. The entrance to this fort is a curious archway, about 
ten feet deep, formed of the iron-wood palisades, with a 
sharp turn to the right and left forming a zigzag. The 
whole of the village thus fenced is situated in the midst 
of a splendid forest of large timber. The inhabitants of 
Wakkala are the same as the Ellyria, but governed by an 
independent chief. They are great hunters ; and as we 
arrived I saw several parties returning from the forest 
with portions of wild boar and buffalo. 

From Gondokoro to this spot I had not seen a single 
head of game, but the immediate neighbourhood of 
Wakkala was literally trodden down by the feet of 
elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, rhinoceros, and varieties ,of 
large antelopes. 

Having examined the village, I ordered my people to 
unload the animals in the forest about a quarter of a mile 
from the entrance. The soil was extremely rich, and the ' 






Chap. V.] AN ELYSIUM. 119 

ground being shaded from the scorching rays of the sun by 
the large trees, there was abundance of tine grass, which 
accounted for the presence of the game : good pasturage, 
extensive forests, and a plentiful supply of water insuring 
the supply of wild animals. 

In a few minutes my horses and donkeys were luxu- 
riating on the rich herbage, not having tasted grass for 
some days ; the camels revelled in the foliage of the dark 
green mimosas ; and the men, having found on the march 
a buffalo that had been caught in a trap and there killed 
by a lion, obtained some meat, and the whole party were 
feeding. We had formed a kind of arbour by hacking out 
with a sabre a delightful shady nook in the midst of a 
dense mass of creepers, and there we feasted upon a couple 
of roast fowls that we had procured from the natives for 
glass beads. This was the first meat we had tasted since 
we had quitted Gondokoro. 

At 5.10 p.m. we left this delightful spot, and marched. 
Emerging from the forest we broke upon a beautiful plain 
of fine low grass, bomided on our right hand by jungle. 
This being the cool hour of evening, the plain was alive 
with game, including buffaloes, zebras, and many varieties 
of large antelopes. It was a most enlivening sight to see 
them scouring over the plain as we advanced; but our 
large party, and three red flags streaming in the breeze, 
effectually prevented us from getting sufficiently near for a 
shot. 

I was sorely tempted to remain in this Elysium for a 
few days' shooting, but the importance of an advance was 
too great to permit of any thoughts of amusement ; thus, I 
could only indulge a sportsman's feelings by feasting my 
eyes upon, the beautiful herds before me. 

At a quarter past seven we bivouacked in thick jungle. 
In the middle of the night, the watch-fires still blazing, 
I was awoke by a great noise, and upon arrival at the spot 
I found a number of the Turks with firebrands, searching 
upon the ground, which was literally strewed with beads 
and copper bracelets. The Latooka porters had broken 
open the bags and baskets containing many hundred- 



120 LATOOKA THIEVES. [Chap. V. 

weight of these objects, and, loading themselves, had in- 
tended to desert with their stolen prize ; but the sentries 
having discovered them, they were seized by the soldiers. 
These fellows, the Latookas, had exhibited the folly of 
monkeys in so rashly breaking open the packages while 
the sentries were on guard. Several who had been caught 
in the act were now pinioned by the Turks, and were im- 
mediately condemned to be shot ; while others were held 
down upon the ground and well chastised with the coor- 
batch. I begged that the punishment of death might be 
commuted for a good flogging ; — at first I implored in 
vain, until I suggested, that if the porters were shot, there 
would be no one to carry their loads : — this practical argu- 
ment saved them, and after receiving a severe thrashing, 
their arms were pinioned, and a guard set over them until 
the morning. 

We marched at 5.25 on the following morning. For 
several hours the path led through thick jungle in which 
we occasionally caught glimpses of antelopes. At length 
quitting the jungle we arrived at an open marshy plain, 
upon which I discerned at a great distance a number of 
antelopes. Having nothing to eat I determined to stalk 
them, as I heard from the people that we were not far 
from our halting-place for the day. 

Accordingly I left Mrs. Baker with my horse and a 
spare rifle to wait, while the party marched straight on ; 1 
intended to make a circuit through the jungle and to wait, 
for the entrance of the herd, which she was to drive, by 
simply riding through the plain and leading my horse ; she 
was to bring the horse to me should I fire a shot. After 
walking for about a mile in the jungle parallel with the 
plain, I saw the herd of about two hundred Tetel going at 
full gallop from the open ground into the jungle, having 
been alarmed by the red flags and the Turks, who had 
crossed over the marsh. So shy were these antelopes that 
there was no possibility of stalking them. I noticed how- 
ever that there were several waterbucks in the very -centre 
of the marsh, and that two or three trees afforded the pos- 
sibility of a stalk. Having the wind all right, I succeeded 



Chap. V.] CHASE AFTER WATERBUCK. J 21 

in getting to a tree within about two hundred and fifty yards 
of the largest buck, and lying down in a dry trench that in 
the wet season formed a brook, I crept along the bottom 
until I reached a tall tuft of grass that was to be my last 
point of cover. Just as I raised myself slowly from the 
trench I found the buck watching me most attentively. A 
steady shot with my little No. 24 rifle took no effect — it 
was too high : — the buck did not even notice the shot, 
which was, I suppose, the first he had ever heard ; — he was 
standing exactly facing me ; this is at all times an unplea- 
sant position for a shot. Seeing that he did not seem dis- 
posed to move, I reloaded without firing my left-hand 
barrel. I now allowed for the high range of the last 
shot ; a moment after the report he sprang into the air, 
then fell upon his knees and galloped off on three legs ; — 
one of the fore-legs being broken. I had heard the sharp 
sound of the bullet, but the shot was not very satisfactory. 
Turning to look for my horse, I saw Mrs. Baker galloping- 
over the plain towards me, leading Filfil, while Bickarn 
ran behind at his best speed. 

Upon her arrival I mounted Filfil, who was a fast horse, 
and with my little No. 24 rifle in my hand I rode slowly 
towards the wounded waterbuck, who was now standing 
watching us at about a quarter of a mile distant. How- 
ever, before I had decreased my distance by a hundred 
yards he started off at full gallop. Putting Filfil into a 
canter I increased the pace until I found that I must .press 
him at full speed, as the waterbuck, although on only 
three legs, had the best of it. The ground was rough, 
having been marshy and trodden into ruts by the game, 
but now dried by the sun ; — bad for both horse and ante- 
lope, but especially for the former : however, after a race of 
about a mile I found myself gaining so rapidly that in a 
few moments I was riding on his left flank within three 
yards of him, and holding the rifle with one hand like a 
pistol I shot him dead through the shoulder. This little 
double rifle is an exceedingly handy weapon ; — it was 
made for me about nine years ago by Thomas Fletcher, 
gunmaker of Gloucester, and is of most perfect workman- 



122 VALUABLE RIFLE. [Chap. V. 

ship. I have shot with it most kinds of large game ; 
although the bore is so small as No. 24, I have bagged 
with it rhinoceros, hippopotamus, lions, buffaloes, and all 
the heavy game except elephants and giraffes ; upon the 
latter I have never happened to try it. Weighing only 
eight pounds and three-quarters it is most convenient to 
carry on horseback, and although I have had frequent 
accidents through my horse falling in full gallop, the stock 
is perfectly sound to this day. The best proof of thorough 
honest workmanship is, that in many years of hard work 
it has never been out of order, nor has it ever been in a 
gunmaker's hands. 

The operation of cutting the waterbuck into four 
quarters, and then stringing them on to a strip of its own 
hide, was quickly performed, and with Richarn's assistance 
I slung it across my saddle, and led my horse, thus heavily 
laden, towards the path. After some difficulty in crossing 
muddy hollows and gullies in the otherwise dried marsh, 
we at length succeeded in finding the tracks of the party 
that had gone on ahead. 

We had been steering from Ellyria due east towards 
the high peak of " Gebel Lafeet," that rose exactly above 
one of the principal towns of Latooka. With this fine 
beacon now apparently just before us, we had no difficulty 
in finding our way. The country was now more open, and 
the ground sandy and interspersed with the hegleek trees, 
which gave it the appearance of a vast orchard of large 
pear "trees. The "hegleek" is peculiarly rich in potash; 
so much so that the ashes of the burnt wood will blister 
the tongue. It bears a fruit about the size and shape 
of a date ; — this is very sweet and aromatic in flavour, 
and is also so rich in potash that it is used as a substitute 
for soap. 

After an hour's walk always on the tracks of the party, 
we saw a large Latooka town in the distance, and upon 
a nearer approach we discovered crowds of people collected 
under two enormous trees. Presently guns fired, the 
drums beat, and as we drew nearer we perceived the 
Turkish flags leading a crowd of about a hundred men, 



Chap. V.] MAHOMMED HER. 123 

who approached us with the usual salutes, every man 
firing off ball cartridge as fast as he could reload. My 
men were already with this lot of ragamuffins, and 
this was the ivory or slave trading party that they had 
conspired to join. They were marching towards me to 
honour me with a salute, which, upon close approach, 
ended by their holding their guns, muzzle downwards, 
and firing them almost into my feet. I at once saw 
through their object in giving me this reception ; — they 
had already heard from the other party exaggerated 
accounts of presents that their leader had received, and 
they were jealous at the fact of- my having established 
confidence with a party opposed to them. The vakeel 
I of Chenooda was the man who had from the first in- 
stigated my men to revolt and to join his party, and he 
at that moment had two of my deserters with him that 
had mutinied and joined him at Gondokoro. It had been 
agreed that the remainder of my men were to mutiny at 
this spot and to join him with my arms and ammunition. 
This was to be the stage for the outbreak. The apparent 
welcome was only to throw me off my guard. 

I was coldly polite, and begging them not to waste 
their powder, I went to the large tree that threw a beau- 
tiful shade, and we sat down, surrounded by a crowd of 
both natives and trader's people. Mahommed Her sent 
me immediately a fat ox for my people : not to be under 
any obligation I immediately gave him a double-barrelled 
gun. The ox was slaughtered, and the people preferring 
beef to antelope venison, I gave the flesh of the water- 
buck to the Latooka porters belonging to Ibrahim's party. 
Thus all teeth were busy. Ibrahim and his men occupied 
the shade of another enormous tree at about a hundred 
and fifty yards' distance. 

The town was Latome\ one of the principal places in 
the Latooka country, and was strongly palisaded, like the 
town of Wakkala. I did not go through the entrance, 
but contented myself with resting under my tree and 
writing up the journal from my note-book. Before we 
had been there many hours the two parties of Ibrahim 



124 QUARRELLING AMONG THE TRADERS. [Chap. V. 

and Mahommed Her were engaged in a hot contention. 
Mahommed Her declared that no one had a right of way 
through that country, which belonged to him according 
to the customs of the White Nile- trade ; that he would not 
permit the party of Ibrahim to proceed, and that, should 
they persist in their march, he would resist them by force. 
Words grew high ; — Ibrahim was not afraid of force, as he 
had a hundred and forty men against Mahommed Her's 
hundred and five ; — insults and abuse were liberally ex- 
changed, while the natives thronged around, enjoying the 
fun, until at last Mahommed Her's temper becoming out- 
rageous, he was seized by the throat by Sulieman, a 
powerful choush or sergeant of Ibrahim's party, and 
hurled away from the select society who claimed the 
right of road. Great confusion arose, and both parties 
prepared for a fight, which after the usual bluster died 
away to nothing. However, I noticed that my men most 
unmistakeably took the part of Mahommed Her against 
Ibrahim ; they belonging to his tribe. 

The evening arrived, and my vakeel, with his usual 
cunning, came to ask me "whether I intended to start 
to-morrow ? " He said there was excellent shooting in 
this neighbourhood, and that Ibrahim's camp not being 
more than five hours' march beyond, I could at any time 
join him, should I think proper. Many of my men were 
sullenly listening to my reply,, which was, that we 
should start in company with Ibrahim. The men im- 
mediately turned their backs, and swaggered insolently 
to the town, muttering something that I could not dis- 
tinctly understand. I gave orders directly, that no man 
should sleep in the town, but that all should be at their 
posts by the luggage under the tree that I occupied. At 
night several men were absent, and were with difficulty 
brought from the town by the vakeel. The whole of the 
night was passed by the rival parties quarrelling and 
fighting. At 5.30 on the following morning the drum 
of Ibrahim's party beat the call, and his men with great 
alacrity got their porters together and prepared to march. 
My vakeel was not to be found ; my men were lying 



Chap. V.] THE LATOOKA MUTINY. 125 

idly in the positions where they had slept; and not a 
man obeyed when I gave the order to prepare to start — 
except Eicharn and Sali. I saw that the moment had 
arrived. Again I gave the order to the men, to get up 
and load the animals ; . . . not a man would move, ex- 
cept three or four who slowly rose from the ground, and 
stood resting: on their guns. -In the meantime Eicharn 
and Sali were bringing the camels and making them 
kneel by the luggage. The boy Saat was evidently ex- 
pecting a row, and although engaged with the black 
women in packing, he kept his eyes constantly upon me. 

I now observed that Bellaal was standing very near 
me on my right, in advance of the men who had risen 
from the ground, and employed himself in eyeing me 
from head to foot with the most determined insolence. 
The fellow had his gun in his hand, and he was tele- 
graphing by looks with those who were standing near 
him, while not one of the others rose from the ground, 
although close to me. Pretending not to notice Bellaal 
who was now as I had expected once more the ringleader, 
for the third time I ordered the men to rise immediately, 
and to load the camels. Not a man moved, but the 
fellow Bellaal marched up to me, and looking me straight 
in the face dashed the butt-end of his gun in defiance 
on the ground, and led the mutiny. " Not a man shall 
go with you ! — go where you like with Ibrahim, but we 
won't follow you, nor move a step farther. The men 
shall not load the camels ; you may employ the • niggers ' 
to do it, but not us." 

I looked at this mutinous rascal for a moment ; this 
was the burst of the conspiracy, and the threats and in- 
solence that I had been forced to pass over for the sake 
of the expedition all rushed before me. " Lay down your 

gun!" I thundered, "and load the camels!" 

" I won't " — was his reply. " Then stop here ! " I 
answered ; at the same time lashing out as quick as 
lightning with my right hand upon his jaw. 

He rolled over in a heap, his gun flying some yards 
from his hand ; and the late ringleader lay apparently 



126 STOP THE MVTINT. [Chap. V. 

insensible among the luggage, while several of his friends 
ran to him, and did the good Samaritan. Following up 
on the moment the advantage I had gained by establishing 
a panic, I seized my rifle and rushed into the midst of 
the wavering men, catching first one by the throat, and 
then another, and dragging them to the camels, which 
I insisted upon their immediately loading. All except 
three, who attended to the ruined ringleader, mechanically 
obeyed. Eicharn and Sali both shouted to them to 
" hurry ; " and the vakeel arriving at this moment and 
seeing how matters stood, himself assisted, and urged the 
men to obey. 

Ibrahim's party had started. The animals were soon 
loaded, and leaving the vakeel to take them in charge, 
we cantered on to overtake Ibrahim, having crushed the 
mutiny, and given such an example, that in the event 
of future conspiracies my men would find it difficult to 
obtain a ringleader. So ended the famous conspiracy that 
had been reported to me by both Saat and Eicharn before 
we left Gondokoro ; — and so much for the threat of " firing 
simultaneously at me and deserting my wife in the jungle." 
In those savage countries success frequently depends upon 
one particular moment; you may lose or win according 
to your action at that critical instant. We congratulated 
ourselves upon the termination of this affair, which I 
trusted would be the last of the mutinies. 

The country was now lovely; we were at the base of 
the mountain "Lafeet," which rose abruptly on our left 
to the height of about 3,000 feet, the highest peak of the 
eastern chain that formed the broad valley of Latooka. 
The course of the valley was from S.E. to N.W. ; about 
forty miles long by eighteen miles wide ; the fiat bottom 
was diversified by woods, thick jungles, open plains, and 
the ever-present hegleek trees, which in some places gave 
the appearance of forest. The south side of the valley 
was bounded by a high range of mountains, rising to six 
or seven thousand feet above the general level of Latooka, 
while the extreme end was almost blocked by a noble 
but isolated mountain of about 5,000 feet. 



Chap. V.] I PURSUE AND CAPTURE A FUGITIVE. \ e £J 

Our path being at the foot of the Lafeet chain, the 
ground was sandy but firm, being composed of disin- 
tegrated portions of the granite rocks that had washed 
down from the mountains, and we rode quickly along a 
natural road, equal to the best highway in England. 

We soon overtook Ibrahim and his party, and re- 
counted the affair of mutiny. 

The long string of porters now closed together as we 
were approaching a rebel town of Latooka that was hostile 
to both Turks and others. Suddenly one of the native 
porters threw down his load and bolted over the open 
ground towards the village at full speed. The fellow 
bounded along like an antelope, and was immediately 
pursued by half a dozen Turks. " Shoot him ! shoot him ! 
knock him over ! " was shouted from the main body ; and 
twenty guns were immediately pointed at the fugitive,, who 
distanced his pursuers as a horse would outstrip an ox. 

To save the man I gave chase on Filfil, putting myself 
in the line between him and the guns, to prevent them 
from firing. After a short course I overtook him, but 
he still continued running, and upon my closing with him 
he threw his spear on the ground, but still ran. Not being 
able to speak his language, I made signs that he should 
hold the mane of my horse, and that no one should hurt 
him. He at once clutched with both hands the horse's 
mane, and pushed himself almost under my knee in his 
efforts to keep close to me for protection. The Turks 
arrived breathless, and the native appeared as terrified 
as a hare at the moment it is seized by the greyhound. 
" Shoot him ! " they one and all shouted. " Well done, 
' Hawaga ! ' (Sir) you caught him beautifully ! We never 
could have caught him without your horse. Pull him 
out ! we'll shoot him as an example to the others ! " 
I explained that he was my man, and belonged to me 
as I had caught him, therefore I could not allow him to 
be shot. " Then we'll give him five hundred with the coor- 
batch ! " they cried. Even this generous offer I declined, 
and I insisted that he should accompany me direct to 
Ibrahim, into whose hands I should myself deliver him, 



128 HELD IN SOME ESTIMATION. [Chap. V. 

Accordingly, still clutching to my horse's mane, the captive 
followed, and was received by the main body on arrival 
with shouts of derision. 

I told Ibrahim that he must forgive him this time, if he 
promised to carry his load to the end of the journey. He 
immediately picked up his heavy burden as though it 
were a feather, and balancing it on his head, stepped along 
in the line of porters as though nothing had occurred. 

Trifling as this incident may appear, it was of much 
service to me, as it served as an introduction to both 
Turks and natives. I heard the former conversing together, 
praising the speed of the horse, and congratulating them- 
selves on the impossibility of the porters escaping now 
that they had seen how quickly they could be overtaken, 
Another remarked, " Wah Illahi, I should not like to chase 
a nigger so closely while a lance was in his hand. I 
expected he would turn sharp round and throw it through 
the Hawaga." Thus I was now looked upon by the Turks 
as an ally, and at the same time I was regarded by the 
Latookas as their friend for having saved their man ; and 
they grinned their approbation in the most unmistakeable 
manner as I rode past their line, shouting, " Morrte, morrte, 
mattat ! " (welcome, welcome, chief !) 

On arriving at a large town named Kattaga, w r e rested 
under the shade of an immense tamarind tree. There 
was # no sign of my men and animals, and I began to 
think that something had gone wrong. For two hours we 
waited for their arrival. Ascending some rising ground, I 
at length observed my caravan approaching in the distance, 
and every one of my men, except Eicharn, mounted upon 
my donkeys, although the poor animals were alread}^ 
carrying loads of 150 lbs. each. Upon observing me, the 
dismount was sudden and general. On their arrival I 
found that three of the men had deserted, including 
"Bellaal," and had joined the party of Mahommed Her, 
taking with them my guns and ammunition. Two had 
previously joined that party; thus five of my men were 
now engaged by those slave-hunters, and I little doubted 
that my remaining men would abscond likewise. 






Chap. V.] THE NATIVES OF LATOOKA. 129 

On the arrival of my vakeel he told me, in face of the 
men, that so many had deserted, and that the others had 
refused to assist him in taking the guns from them ; thus 
my arms and ammunition had been forcibly stolen. I 
abused both the vakeel and the men most thoroughly ; and 
" as for the mutineers who have joined the slave-hunters, 
Inshallah, the vultures shall pick their bones ! " 

This charitable wish — which, I believe, I expressed with 
intense hatred — was never forgotten either by my own 
men or by the Turks. Believing firmly in the evil eye, 
their superstitious fears were immediately excited. 

Continuing the march along the same style of country 
we shortly came in view of TarrangoUi, the chief town of 
Latooka, at which point was the station of Ibrahim. We 
had marched thirteen miles from Latome, the station of 
Mahommed Her, at which place my men had deserted, 
and we were now 101 miles from Gondokoro by dead 
reckoning. 

There were some superb trees situated close to the town, 
under which we camped until the natives could prepare a 
hut for our reception. Crowds of people now surrounded 
us, amazed at the two great objects of interest — the 
camels, and a white woman. They did not think me very 
peculiar, as I was nearly as brown as an Arab. 

The Latookas are the finest savages I have ever seen. I 
measured a number of them as they happened to enter my 
tent, and allowing two inches for the thickness of their 
felt helmets, the average height was 5 ft. 11^ in. Not 
only are they tall, but they possess a wonderful muscular 
development, having beautifully proportioned legs and 
arms; and although extremely powerful, they are never 
fleshy or corpulent. The formation of head and general 
physiognomy is totally different from all other tribes that 
I have met with in the neighbourhood of the White Nile. 
They have high foreheads, large eyes, rather high cheek- 
bones, mouths not very large, well-shaped, and the lips 
rather full. They all have a remarkably pleasing cast of 
countenance, and are a great contrast to the other tribes in 
civility of manner. Altogether their appearance denotes a 

K 



130 PROBABLE ORIGIN OF THE LATOOKAS. [Chap. V. 

Galla origin, and it is most probable that, at some former 
period, an invasion by the Gallas of this country origi- 
nated the settlement of the Latookas. 

One of the principal channels, if not the main stream 
of the river Sobat, is only four days' march or fifty miles 
east of Latooka, and is known to the natives as the Choi. 
The east bank of that stream is occupied by the Gallas, 
who have frequently invaded the Latooka country. There 
is an interesting circumstance connected with these in- 
vasions, that the Gallas were invariably mounted upon 
mules. Neither horse, camel, nor other beast of burden is 
known to any of the White Nile tribes, therefore the 
existence of mules on the east bank of the Choi is a dis- 
tinguishing feature. Both Abyssinia and the Galla being 
renowned for a fine breed of mules, affords good circum- 
stantial evidence that the Akkara tribe of the Choi are 
true Gallas, and that the Latookas may be derived from a 
similar origin by settlements after conquest. 

The great chief of the Latookas, "Moy," assured me 
that his people could not withstand the cavalry of the 
Akkara, although they were superior to all other tribes 
on foot. \ 

I have heard the traders of Khartoum pretend that they 
can -distinguish the tribes of the White Nile by their in- 
dividual type. I must confess my inability on this point. 
In vain I have attempted to trace an actual difference. 
To me the only distinguishing mark between the tribes 
bordering the White Eiver is a peculiarity in either dress- 
ing the hair, or in ornament. The difference of general 
appearance caused by a variety of hairdressing is most 
perplexing, and is apt to mislead a traveller who is only a 
superficial observer; but from the commencement of the 
negro tribes in N. lat. 12° to Ellyria in lat. 4° 30' I have 
found no specific difference in the people. The actual 
change takes place suddenly on arrival in Latooka, and 
this is accounted for by an admixture with the Gallas. 

The Latookas are a fine, frank, and warlike race. Far 
from being the morose set of savages that I had hitherto 
seen, they were excessively merry, and always ready for 



'Chap. V.] NATIVE ARCHITECTURE. 131 

either a laugh or a fight. The town of Tarrangolle con- 
tained about three thousand houses, and was not only- 
surrounded by iron-wood palisades, but every house was 
individually fortified by a little stockaded courtyard. The 
cattle were kept in large kraals in various parts of the 
town, and were most carefully attended to, fires being lit 
every night to protect them from flies ; and high platforms, 
in three tiers, were erected in many places, upon which 
sentinels watched both day and night to give the alarm in 
case of danger. The cattle are the wealth of the country, 
and so rich are the Latookas in oxen, that ten or twelve 
thousand head are housed in every large town ; thus the 
natives are ever on the watch, fearing the attacks of the 
adjacent tribes. 

The houses of the Latookas are generally bell-shaped, 
while others are precisely like huge candle-extinguishers, 
about twenty-five feet high. The roofs are neatly thatched, 
at an angle of about 75°, resting upon a circular wall about 
four feet high ; thus the roof forms a cap descending to 
within two feet and a half of the ground. The doorway 
is only two feet and two inches high, thus an entrance 
must be effected upon all-fours. The interior is remark- 
ably clean, but dark, as the architects have no idea of 
windows. It is a curious fact that the circular form of 
hut is the only style of architecture adopted among all the 
tribes of Central Africa, and also among the Arabs of 
Upper Egypt ; and that, although these differ more or 
less in the form of the roof, no tribe has ever yet suffi- 
ciently advanced to construct a window. The town of 
Tarrangolle is arranged with several entrances, in the 
shape of low archways through the palisades ; these are 
closed at night by large branches of the hooked thorn of 
the kittur bush (a species of mimosa). The main street is 
broad, but all others are studiously arranged to admit of 
only one cow, in single file, between high stockades ; thus, 
in the event of an attack, these narrow passages could be 
easily defended, and it would be impossible to drive off 
their vast herds of cattle unless by the main street. The 
large cattle kraals are accordingly arranged in various 

k2 



132 EXHUMATION OF THE DEAD. [Chap. V. 

quarters in connexion with the great road, and the 
entrance of each kraal is a small archway in the strong 
iron-wood fence sufficiently wide to admit one ox at a 
time. Suspended from the arch is a bell, formed of the 
shell of the Dolape palm-nut, against which every animal 
must strike either its horns or back, on entrance. Every 
tinkle of the bell announces the passage of an ox into the 
kraal, and they are thus counted every evening when 
brought home from pasture. 

I had noticed, during the march from Latome, that the 
vicinity of every town was announced by heaps of human 
remains. Bones and skulls formed a Golgotha within a 
quarter of a mile of every village. Some of these were in 
earthenware pots, generally broken ; others lay strewn here 
and there; while a heap in the centre showed that some 
form had originally been observed in their disposition. 
This was explained by an extraordinary custom, most 
rigidly observed by the Latookas. Should a man be killed 
in battle the body is allowed to remain where it fell, and is 
devoured by the vultures and hyenas ; but should he die a 
natural death, he or she is buried, in a shallow grave within 
a few feet of his own door, in the little courtyard that sur- 
rounds each dwelling. Funeral dances are then kept up 
in memory of the dead for several weeks ; at the expiration 
of which time, the body being sufficiently decomposed, is 
exhumed. The bones are cleaned, and are deposited in an 
earthenware jar, and carried to a spot near the town which 
is regarded as the cemetery. I observed that they were 
not particular in regarding the spot as sacred, as signs 
of nuisances were present even upon the bones, that in 
civilized countries would have been regarded as an insult. 

There is little difficulty in describing the toilette of the 
native — that of the men being simplified by the sole 
covering of the head, the body being entirely nude. It is 
curious to observe among these wild savages the consum- 
mate vanity displayed in their head-dresses. Every tribe 
has a distinct and unchanging fashion for dressing the 
hair j and so elaborate is the coiffure that hair-dressing is 
reduced to a science. European ladies would be startled 



Chap. V.] HAIR HELMETS OF LATOOKA. 133 

at the fact, that to perfect the coiffure of a man requires a 
period of from eight to ten years ! However tedious the 
operation, the result is extraordinary. The Latookas wear 
most exquisite helmets, all of which are formed of their 
own hair ; and are, of course, fixtures. At first sight it 
appears incredible, but a minute examination shows the 
wonderful perseverance of years in producing what must 
be highly inconvenient. The thick, crisp wool is woven 
with fine twine, formed from the bark of a tree, until it 
presents a thick network of felt. As the hair grows 
through this matted substance it is subjected to the same 
process, until, in the course of years, a compact substance 
is formed like a strong felt, about an inch and a half thick, 
that has been trained into the shape of a helmet. A 
strong rim, of about two inches deep, is formed by sewing 
it together with thread ; and the front part of the helmet 
is protected by a piece of polished copper; while a piece 
of the same metal, shaped like the half of a bishop's mitre 
and about a foot in length, forms the crest. The frame- 
work of the helmet being at length completed, it must be 
perfected by an arrangement of beads, should the owner of 
the head be sufficiently rich to indulge in the coveted dis- 
tinction. The beads most in fashion are the red and the 
blue porcelain, about the size of small peas. These are 
sewn on the surface of the felt, and so beautifully arranged 
in sections of blue and red that the entire helmet appears 
to be formed of beads ; and the handsome crest of polished 
copper, surmounted by ostrich-plumes, gives a most dig- 
nified and martial appearance to this elaborate head-dress. 
JSTo helmet is supposed to be complete without a row of 
cowrie-shells stitched around the rim so as to form a solid 
edge. 

The Latookas have neither bows nor arrows, their 
weapons consisting of the lance, a powerful iron-headed 
mace, a long-bladed knife or sword, and an ugly iron 
bracelet, armed with knife-blades about four inches long 
by half an inch broad : the latter is used to strike with if 
disarmed, and to tear with when wrestling with an enemy. 
Their shields are either of buffaloes' hide or of giraffes', the 



134 



THE LATOOKA WOMEN. 



[Chap. V, 



latter being highly prized as excessively tough although 
light, and thus combining the two requisite qualities of a. 
good shield ; they are usually about four feet six inches 
long by two feet wide, and are the largest I have seen. 
Altogether, everything in Latooka looks like fighting. 




OOMMORO RUNNING TO THE FIGHT. 



Although the men devote so much attention to their 
head-dress, the women are extremely simple. It is a 
curious fact, that while the men are remarkably handsome, 
the women are exceedingly plain ; — they are immense crea- 
tures, few being under five feet seven in height, with pro- 



Chap. V.] THE CHIEF'S INTRODUCTION. 135 

digious limbs. Their superior strength to that of other 
tribes may be seen in the size of their water jars, which 
are nearly double as large as any I have seen elsewhere, 
containing about ten gallons ; in these they fetch water 
from the stream about a mile distant from the town. 
They wear exceedingly long tails, precisely like those of 
horses, but made of fine twine and rubbed with red ochre 
and grease. They are very convenient when they creep 
into their huts on hands and knees. In addition to the 
tails, they wear a large flap of tanned leather in front. 
Should I ever visit that country again, I should take a 
great number of " Freemasons' "■ aprons for the women ; 
these would be highly prized, and would create a per- 
fect furor. The only really pretty women that I saw 
in Latooka were Bokk^, the wife of the chief, and her 
daughter; they were fac-similes of each other, the latter 
having the advantage of being the second edition. Both 
women and men were extremely eager for beads of all 
kinds, the most valuable being the red and blue porcelain 
for helmets, and the large opalescent bead, the size of a 
child's marble. 

The day after my arrival in Latooka I was accom- 
modated by the chief with a hut in a neat courtyard, 
beautifully clean and cemented with clay, ashes, and cow- 
dung. Not patronising the architectural advantages of a 
doorway of two feet high, I pitched my large tent in the yard 
and stowed all my baggage in the hut. All being arranged, 
I had a large Persian carpet spread upon the ground, and 
received the chief of Latooka in state. He was introduced 
by Ibrahim, and I had the advantage of his interpreter. 
I commenced the conversation by ordering a present to be 
laid on the carpet of several necklaces of valuable beads, 
copper bars, and coloured cotton handkerchiefs. It was * 
most amusing to witness his delight at a string of fifty 
little " berrets " (opal beads the size of marbles) which I 
had brought into the country for the first time, and were 
accordingly extremely valuable. No sooner had he sur- 
veyed them with undisguised delight than he requested me 
to give him another string of opals for his wife, or she 



136 «MOT" AND HIS LADIES. [Cuap. V. 

would be in a bad humour ; — accordingly a present for the 
lady was added to the already large pile of beads that lay 
heaped upon the carpet before him. After surveying his 
treasures with pride, he heaved a deep sigh, and turning to 
the interpreter he said, " What a row there will be in the 
family when my other wives see Bokke (his head wife' 
dressed up with this finery. Tell the 'Mattat' that unless he 
gives necklaces for each of my other wives, they will fight ! " 
Accordingly I asked him the number of ladies that made 
him anxious. He deliberately began to count upon his 
fingers, and having exhausted the digits of one hand, 1 
compromised immediately, begging him not to go through 
the whole of his establishment, and presented him with 
about three pounds of various beads, to be divided among 
them. He appeared highly delighted, and declared his 
intention of sending all his wives to pay Mrs. Baker a 
visit. This was an awful visitation, as each wife would 
expect a present for herself, and would assuredly have 
either a child or a friend for whom she would beg an addi- 
tion. I therefore told him that the heat was so great that 
we could not bear too many in the tent, but that if Bokke, 
his favourite, would appear, we should be glad to see her. 
Accordingly he departed, and shortly we were honoured by 
a visit. Bokke" and her daughter were announced, and a 
prettier pair of savages I never saw. They were very 
clean* — their hair was worn short, like all the women of 
the country, and plastered with red ochre and fat, so as to 
look like vermilion ; their faces were slightly tattooed on 
the cheeks and temples ; and they sat down on the many- 
coloured carpet with great surprise, and stared at the first 
white man and woman they had ever seen. We gave them 
both a number of necklaces of red and blue beads, and I 
secured Bokke's portrait in my sketch book, obtaining a very 
correct likeness. She told us that Mahommed Her's men 
were very bad people ; that they had burnt and plundered 
one of her villages ; and that one of the Latookas who had 
been wounded in the fight by a bullet had just died, and 
they were to dance for him to-morrow, if we would like to 
attend. She asked many questions ; how many wives I 






Chap. V.] PROPOSAL TO " IMPROVE" MRS. BAKER. 137 

had ? and was astonished to hear that I was contented 
with one. This seemed to amnse her immensely, and she 
laughed heartily with her daughter at the idea. She said 
that my wife would be much improved if she would 
extract her four front teeth from the lower jaw, and wear 
the red ointment on her hair, according to the fashion of 
the country; she also proposed that she should pierce her 




BOKKjS — WIFE OF MOY, CHIEF OF LATOOKA.. 



under lip, and wear the long pointed polished crystal, about 
the size of a drawing pencil, that is the "thing" in the 
Latooka country. No woman among the tribe who has 
any pretensions to be a "swell" would be without this 
highly-prized ornament, and one of my thermometers 
having come to an end I broke the tube into three pieces, 
and they were considered as presents of the highest value, 



138 "AIDS" TO BEAUTY. [Chap. V. 

to be ■worn through the perforated under lip. Lest the 
piece should slip through the hole in the lip, a kind of 
rivet is formed by twine bound round the inner extremity, 
and this protruding into the space left by the extraction of 
the four front teeth of the lower jaw, entices the tongue to 
act upon the extremity, which gives it a wriggling motion, 
indescribably ludicrous during conversation. 

I cannot understand for what reason all the White Nile 
tribes extract the four front teeth of the lower jaw. Were 
the meat of the country tender, the loss of teeth might be 
a trifle ; but I have usually found that even a good set of 
grinders are sometimes puzzled to go through the operation 
needful to a Latooka beefsteak. It is difficult to explain 
real beauty ; a defect in one country is a desideratum in 
another; scars upon the face are, in Europe, a blemish; 
but here and in the Arab countries no beauty can be 
perfect until the cheeks or temples have been gashed. 
The Arabs make three gashes upon each cheek, and rub the 
wounds with salt and a kind of porridge (asida) to produce 
proud flesh ; thus every female slave, captured by the slave- 
hunters, is marked to prove her identity, and to improve 
her charms. Each tribe has its peculiar fashion as to the 
position and form of the cicatrix. 

The Latookas gash the temples and cheeks of their 
women, but do not raise the scar above the surface, as is 
the custom of the Arabs. 

Polygamy is, of course, the general custom ; the number 
of a man's wives depending entirely upon his wealth, 
precisely as would the number of bis horses in England. 
There is no such thing as love in these countries : the 
feeling is not understood, nor does it exist in the shape in 
which we understand it. Everything is practical, without 
a particle of romance. Women are so far appreciated as 
they are valuable animals. They grind the corn, fetch the 
water, gather firewood, cement the floors, cook the food, 
and propagate the race; but they are mere servants, and 
as such are valuable. The price of a good-looking, strong 
young wife, who could carry a heavy jar of water, would 
be ten cows ; thus a man, rich in cattle, would be rich in 



Chap. Y.l THE VALVE OF WIVES. 139 

domestic bliss, as he could command a multiplicity of 
wives. However delightful may be a family of daughters 
in England, they nevertheless are costly treasures ; but in 
Latooka, and throughout savage lands, they are exceed- 
ingly profitable. The simple rule of proportion will sug- 
gest that if one daughter is worth ten cows, ten daughters 
must be worth a hundred, therefore a large family is the 
source of wealth ; the girls produce the cows, and the boys 
milk them. All being perfectly naked (I mean the girls 
and the boys), there is no expense, and the children act as 
herdsmen to the flocks as in the patriarchal times. A 
multiplicity of wives thus increases wealth by the increase 
of family. I am afraid this practical state of affairs will 
be a strong barrier to missionary enterprise. 

A savage holds to his cows, and his women, but espe- 
cially to his cows. In a razzia fight he will seldom stand 
for the sake of his wives, but when he does fight it is 
to save his cattle. I had now a vivid exemplification of 
this theory. 

One day, at about 3 p.m., the men of Ibrahim started 
upon some mysterious errand, but returned equally mys- 
terious at about midnight. On the following morning I 
heard that they had intended to attack some place upon the 
mountains, but they had heard that it was too powerful ; 
and as " discretion is the better part of valour," they had 
returned. 

On the day following I heard that there had been some 
disaster, and that the whole of Mahommed Her's party 
had been massacred. The natives seemed very excited, 
and messenger succeeded messenger, all confirming the 
account that Mahommed Her had attacked a village on 
the mountains, the same that Ibrahim had intended to 
attack, and that the natives had exterminated their whole 
party. 

On the following morning I sent ten of my men with a 
party of Ibrahim's to Latome to make inquiries. They 
returned on the folio whig afternoon, bringing with them 
two wounded men. 

It appeared that Mahommed Her had ordered his party 



140 DESTRUCTION OF MAHOMMED EER'S PARTY. [Chap.V. 

of 110 armed men, in addition to 300 natives, to make a 
razzia upon a certain village among the mountains for 
slaves and cattle. They had succeeded in burning a 
village, and in capturing a great number of slaves. Having 
descended the pass, a native gave them the route that 
would lead to the capture of a large herd of cattle that 
they had not yet discovered. They once more ascended 
the mountain by a different path, and arriving at the kraal, 
they commenced driving off the vast herd of cattle. The 
Latookas, who had not fought while their wives and chil- 
dren were being carried into slavery, now fronted bravely 
against the muskets to defend their herds, and charging 
the Turks, they drove them down the pass. 

It was in vain that they fought ; every bullet aimed at 
a Latooka struck a rock, behind which the enemy was 
hidden. Eocks, stones, and lances were hurled at them 
from all sides and from above ; they were forced to retreat. 
The retreat ended in a panic and precipitate flight. 
Hemmed in on all sides, amidst a shower of lances and 
stones thrown from the mountain above, the Turks fled 
pele-mele down the rocky and precipitous ravines. Mis- 
taking their route, they came to a precipice from which 
there was no retreat. The screaming and yelling savages 
closed round them. Fighting was useless ; the natives, 
under cover of the numerous detached rocks, offered no 
mark for an aim ; while the crowd of armed savages thrust 
them forward with wild yells to the very verge of the 
great precipice about five hundred feet below. Down they 
fell ! hurled to utter destruction by the mass of Latookas 
pressing onward ! A few fought to the last ; but one and 
all were at length forced, by sheer pressure, over the edge 
of the cliff, and met a just reward for their atrocities. 

My men looked utterly cast down, and a feeling of 
horror pervaded the entire party. No quarter had been 
given by the Latookas ; and upwards of 200 natives who 
had joined the slave-hunters in the attack, had also 
perished with their allies. Mahommed Her had not him- 
self accompanied his people, both he and Bellaal, my late 
ringleader, having remained in camp; the latter having, 



Chap. V.] APPREHENSIVE OF AN ATTACK. 141 

fortunately for him, been disabled, and placed hors de 
combat by the example I had made during the mutiny. 
My men were almost green with awe, when I asked them 
solemnly, "Where were the men who had deserted from 
me V Without answering a word they brought two of my 
guns and laid them at my feet. They were covered with 
clotted blood mixed with sand, which had hardened like 
cement over the locks and various portions of the barrels. 
My guns were all marked. As I looked at the numbers 
upon the stocks, I repeated aloud the names of the owners. 
"Are they all dead?" I asked. "All dead," the men re- 
plied. " Food for the vultures ? " I asked. " None of the 
bodies can be recovered," faltered my vakeel. " The two 
guns were brought from the spot by some natives who 
escaped, and who saw the men fall. They are all killed." 
" Better for them had they remained with me and done 
their duty. The hand of God is heavy," I replied. My 
men slunk away abashed, leaving the gory witnesses of 
defeat and death upon the ground. I called Saat and 
ordered him to give the two guns to Eicharn to clean. 

Not only my own men but the whole of Ibrahim's party 
were of opinion that I had some mysterious connexion 
with the disaster that had befallen my mutineers. All 
remembered the bitterness of my prophecy, " The vultures 
will pick their bones," and this terrible mishap having 
occurred so immediately afterwards took a strong hold 
upon their superstitious minds. As I passed through the 
camp, the men would quietly exclaim, "Wah Illahi 
Hawaga !" (My God ! Master.) To which I simply replied, 
"Eobin^fe!" (There is a God.) From that moment I 
observed an extraordinary change in the manner of both 
my people and -those of Ibrahim, all of whom now paid us 
the greatest respect. 

Unfortunately a great change had likewise taken place 
in the manner of the Latookas. The whole town was 
greatly excited, drums were beating and horns blowing in 
all quarters, every one rejoicing at the annihilation of 
Mahommed Her's party. The natives no longer respected 
the superior power of guns ; in a hand-to-hand fight they 



] 42 TEE TURKS INSULT TEE WOMEN. [Chap. V. 

had proved their own superiority, and they had not the 
sense to distinguish the difference between a struggle in a 
steep mountain pass and a battle on the open plain. Ibra- 
him was apprehensive of a general attack on his party by 
the Latookas. 

This was rather awkward, as it was necessary for him 
to return to Gondokoro for a large supply of ammunition 
which had been left there for want of porters to convey it, 
when he had started for the interior. To march to Gondo- 
koro, and to guard the ammunition, would require a large 
force in the present disturbed state of the country; thus 
we should be a much-reduced party, which might induce 
the Latookas to attack us after his departure. However, 
it was necessary that he should start. I accordingly lent 
him a couple of donkeys to convey his powder, in case he 
should not be able to procure porters. 

After the departure of Ibrahim, the force of his party 
remaining at Tarrangolle was reduced to thirty-five men, 
under the command of his lieutenant, Suleiman. This was 
a weak detachment in the event of an attack, especially 
as they had no separate camp, but were living in the 
native town, the men quartered in detached huts, and 
accordingly at the mercy of the natives if surprised. The 
brutality of the Turks was so inseparable from their nature, 
that they continually insulted the native women to such 
an extent that I felt sure they would provoke hostilities 
in the present warlike humour of the Latookas. The 
stream being nearly a mile distant, there was a difficulty 
in procuring water. The Turks being far too lazy to carry 
it for themselves, seized upon the water-jars when the 
women returned from the stream, and beat them severely 
upon their refusal to deliver them without payment. I 
found no difficulty, as I engaged a woman to bring a 
regular supply for a daily payment in beads. Much bar- 
tering was going on between the Turks and the natives for 
provisions, in which the latter were invariably cheated, 
and beaten if they complained. I felt sure that such 
conduct must end in disagreement, if not in actual fight, 
in the event of which I knew that I should be dragged into 






Chap. V.] THEIR ILL CONDUCT. 143 

the affair, although perfectly innocent, and having nothing 
to do with the Turks. 

My quarters in the town were near an open quadrangular 
space about eighty yards square, inclosed, upon all sides, 
but having a narrow entrance to the main street. The 
Turks were scattered about in the neighbouring lanes, 
their time passed in drinking merissa, and quarrelling with 
the natives and with each other. 

The day after Ibrahim's departure, the Turks seized 
some jars of water by force from the women on their 
return from the stream. A row ensued, and ended by one 
of the women being shamefully maltreated ; and a Latooka, 
who came to her assistance, was severely beaten. This I 
did not see, but it was reported to me. I called Suleiman, 
and told him that if such things were permitted it would 
entail a fight with the natives, in which I should not allow 
my men to join ; that I prohibited my men from taking 
anything from the Latookas without just payment : thus, 
should a fight be caused by the conduct of his people, 
they must get out of it as they best could. 

A bad feeling already existed between the natives and 
his people, owing to the defeat of the party of Mahommed 
Her. Much good management was required to avoid a 
collision, and the reverse was certain to cause an outbreak. 

Shortly before dusk the women were again assaulted 
on their return with water from the stream. One of 
Ibrahim's soldiers threatened a powerful-looking Amazon 
with his stick because she refused to deliver up her jar of 
water that she had carried about a mile for her own 
requirements. Upon seeing this my pretty friend, Bokke, 
the chief's wife, seized the soldier by the throat, wrested 
the stick from him, while another woman disarmed him of 
his gun. Other women then set upon him, and gave him 
a most ignominious shaking ; while some gathered up mud 
from the gutter and poured it down the barrel of his gun 
until they effectually choked it ; not content with this, they 
plastered large masses of mud over the locks and trigger. 

I looked on with enjoyment at the thorough discom- 
fiture of the Turk. The news quickly spread, and in 



144 RESULTS OF THE TURKS' MISCONDUCT. [Chap. V. 

revenge for his disgrace his comrades severely heat some 
women at some distance from the camp. I heard screams, 
and shouts, and a confused noise ; and upon my arrival out- 
side the town, I saw large numbers of natives running from 
all quarters, and collecting together with lances and shields. 
I felt sure that we were to be involved in a general outbreak. 
However, the Turks beat the drum, and collected their men, 
so that in a few minutes no straggler was in the town. 

It was remarkably unpleasant to be dragged into a row 
by the conduct of these brutal traders, with whom I had 
nothing in common, and who, should a fight actually 
occur, would be certain to behave as cowards. The 
Latookas would make no distinction between me and 
them, in the event of an attack, as they would naturally 
class all strangers and new comers with the hated Turks. 

It was about 5 p.m. one hour before sunset. The woman 
who usually brought us water delivered her jar, but dis- 
appeared immediately after without sweeping the court- 
yard as was her custom. Her children, who usually played 
in this inclosure, had vanished. On searching her hut, 
which was in one corner of the yard, no one was to be 
found, and even the grinding- stone was gone. Suspecting 
that something was in the wind, I sent Karka and Gaddum 
Her, the two black servants, to search in various huts in 
the neighbourhood to observe if the owners were present, 
and whether the women were in their houses. Not a 
woman could be found. Neither woman nor child re- 
mained in the large town of Tarrangolle. There was an 
extraordinary stillness where usually all was noise and 
chattering. All the women and children had been removed 
to the mountains about two miles distant, and this so 
quickly and noiselessly that it appeared incredible. 

I immediately sent to the house of the chief, and 
requested his attendance. There were two chiefs, brothers; 
Moy was the greater in point of rank, but his brother, 
Commoro, had more actual authority with the people. I 
was glad that the latter appeared. 

I sent to request an interpreter from the Turks, and 
upon his arrival I asked Commoro why the women and 



Chap. V.] INTERVIEW WITH COMMORO. 145 

children had been removed. He replied, " That the Turks 
were so brutal that he could not prevail upon his people to 
endure it any longer ; their women were robbed and beaten, 
and they were all so ill-treated, that he, as their chief, had 
no longer any control over them ; and that the odium of 
having introduced the Turks to Latooka was thrown upon 
him." I asked him whether any of my men had misbe- 
haved. I explained that I should flog any one of my men 
who should steal the merest trifle from his people, or insult 
any women. All my men were in dark-brown uniforms. 
He said, " That none of the men with the brown clothes 
had 'been complained of, but that his people had taken a 
dislike to all strangers, owing to the conduct of the Turks, 
and that he could not answer for the consequences." 
There was a division among his own people, some wishing 
to fight and to serve the Turks as the Latookas had served 
the party of Mahommed Her, and others yielding to his 
advice, and agreeing to remain quiet. 

I inquired whether the chief, Moy, intended peace or 
war. He said, "That Bokke^ his wife, had made him 
veiy angry against the Turks by describing their conduct 
towards the women." 

This was rather an unsatisfactory state of things. Com- 
moro departed, frankly admitting that the natives were 
much excited and wished to attack, but that he would do 
his best with them. 

These rascally traders set every country in a blaze by 
their brutal conduct, and rendered exploring not only most 
dangerous but next to impossible, without an exceedingly 
powerful force. 

The sun set; and, as usual in tropical climates, dark- 
ness set in within half an hour. Not a woman had 
returned to the town, nor was the voice of a man to be 
heard. The natives had entirely forsaken the portion of 
the town that both I and the Turks occupied. 

The night was perfectly calm, and the stars shone so 
brightly, that I took an observation for the latitude — 4° 30'. 

There was a death-like stillness in the air. Even the 
Turks, who were usually uproarious, were perfectly quiet ; 

L 



146 THE LATOOKA WAR SIGNAL. [Chap. V. 

and although my men made no remark, it was plain that 
we were all occupied by the same thoughts, and that an 
attack was expected. 

It was about 9 o'clock, and the stillness had become 
almost painful. There was no cry of a bird ; not even the 
howl of a hyena : the camels were sleeping ; but every 
man was wide awake, and the sentries well on the alert. 
We were almost listening at the supernatural stillness, if I 
may so describe the perfect .calm, when, suddenly, every 
one startled at the deep and solemn boom of the great war- 
drum, or nogara ! Three distinct beats, at slow intervals, 
rang through the apparently deserted town, and echoed 
loudly from the neighbouring mountain. It was the 
signal ! A few minutes elapsed, and like a distant echo 
from the north the three mournful tones again distinctly 
sounded. Was it an echo ? Impossible. Now from the 
south, far distant, but unmistakeable, the same three 
regular beats came booming through the still night air. 
Again and again, from every quarter, spreading far and wide, 
the signal was responded; and the whole country echoed 
those three solemn notes so full of warning. Once more 
the great nogara of Tarrangolle sounded the original alarm 
within a few hundred paces of our quarters. The whole 
country was up. 

There was no doubt about the matter. The Turks well 
knew those three notes were the war-signal of the Latookas. 

I immediately called Suleiman. It was necessary to act 
in unison. I ordered him to beat the drum loudly for 
about five minutes to answer the nogara. His men were 
all scattered in several small inclosures. I called them all 
out into the open quadrangle ; in the centre of which I 
placed the baggage, and planted the English ensign in the 
middle, while the Turks fixed their flag within a few paces. 
Posting sentries at each corner of the square, I stationed 
patrols in the principal street. In the meantime Mrs. Baker 
had laid out upon a mat several hundred cartridges of 
buck-shot, powder-flasks, wadding, and opened several 
boxes of caps, all of which were neatly arranged for a 
reserve of ammunition ; while a long row of first-class 



Chap. V.] PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE. 147 

double guns and rifles lay in readiness. The boy Saat was 
full of fight, and immediately strapped on his belt and 
cartouche-box, and took Iris stand among the men. 

I ordered the men, in the event of an attack, to imme- 
diately set fire to all the huts around the quadrangle ; in 
which case the sudden rush of a large body of men would 
be impossible, and the huts being of straw, the town would 
be quickly in a blaze. 

Everything was in order to resist an attack in five 
minutes from the sounding of the nogara. 

The patrols shortly reported that large bodies of men 
were collecting outside the town. The great nogara again 
beat, and was answered at intervals as before from the 
neighbouring villages ; but the Turks' drum kept up an 
uninterrupted roll as a challenge whenever the nogara 
sounded. Instead of the intense stillness that had formerly 
been almost painful, a distinct hum of distant voices be- 
tokened the gathering of large bodies of men. However, 
we were well fortified ; and the Latookas knew it. We 
occupied the very stronghold that they had themselves 
constructed for the defence of their town ; and the square 
being surrounded with strong iron-wood palisades with 
only a narrow entrance, would be impregnable when held, 
as now, by fifty men well armed with guns against a mob 
whose best weapons were only lances. I sent men up the 
watchmen's stations; these were about twenty-five feet 
high ; and the night being clear, they could distinctly 
report the movements of a dark mass of natives that were 
ever increasing on the outside of the town at about two 
hundred yards' distance. The rattle of the Turks' drum 
repeatedly sounded in reply to the nogara, and the in- 
tended attack seemed destined to relapse into a noisy but 
empty battle of the drums. 

A few hours passed in uncertainty, when, at about mid- 
night, the chief Commoro came fearlessly to the patrol, and 
was admitted to the quadrangle. He seemed greatly 
struck with the preparations for defence, and explained 
that the nogara had been beaten without his orders, and 
accordingly the whole country had risen ; but that he had 

L2 



148 TOO " WIDE AWAKE:' |Ckap. V. 

explained to the people that I had no hostile intentions, 
and that all would he well if they only kept the peace. 
He said they certainly had intended to attack us, and were 
surprised that we were prepared, as proved by the imme- 
diate reply of the Turks' drum to their nogara. He 
assured us that he would not sleep that night, but would 
watch that nothing should happen. I assured him that 
we should also keep awake, but should the nogara sound 
once more I should give orders to my men to set fire to the 
town, as I should not allow the natives to make use of 
such threats with impunity. I agreed to use what little 
interest I had to keep the Turks in order, but that I must 
not be held responsible "fry the native^ for their proceed- 
ings, as I was not of their country, neither had I anything 
to do with them. I explained, that upon Ibrahim's return 
from Gondokoro things might improve, as he was the 
captain of the Turks, and might be able to hold his men in 
command. Commoro departed, and about 2 a.m. the dense 
crowds of armed men that had accumulated outside the 
town began to disperse. 

The morning broke and saw the men still under arms, 
but the excitement had passed. The women soon re- 
appeared with their water-jars as usual, but on this 
occasion they were perfectly unmolested by the Turks, 
who, having passed the night in momentary expectation of 
an attack, were now upon their best behaviour. However, 
I heard them muttering among themselves, "Wait until 
Ibrahim returns with reinforcements and ammunition, and 
we will pay the Latookas for last night." 

The town filled; and the Latookas behaved as though 
nothing out of the common had occurred ; but when 
questioned, they coolly confessed that they had intended to 
surprise us, but that we were too "wide awake." It is 
extraordinary that these fellows are so stupid as to beat 
the drum or nogara before the attack, as it naturally gives 
the alarm, and renders a surprise impossible ; nevertheless, 
the war-drum is always a preliminary step to hostilities. 

I now resolved to camp outside the town, so as not to be 
mixed up in any way with the Turks, whose presence was 






Chap. V.] SCARCITY IN VIEW OF PLENTY. 149 

certain to create enmity. Accordingly I engaged a number 
of natives to cut thorns, and to make a zareeba, or camp, 
about four hundred yards from the main entrance of the 
town, on the road to the stream of water. In a few days 
it was completed, and I constructed houses for my men, 
and two good huts for ourselves. Having a supply of 
garden seeds, I arranged a few beds, which I sowed with 
onions, cabbages, and radishes. My camp was eighty 
yards long, and forty wide. My horses were picqueted in 
two corners, while the donkeys and camels occupied the 
opposite extremity. We now felt perfectly independent. 

I had masses of supplies, and I resolved to work round 
to the south-west whenever it might be possible, and thus 
to recover the route that I had originally proposed for my 
journey south. My present difficulty was the want of an 
interpreter. The Turks had several, and I hoped that on 
the return of Ibrahim from G-ondokoro I might induce him 
to lend me a Bari lad for some consideration. For the 
present I was obliged to send to the Turks' camp and 
borrow an interpreter whenever I required one, which was 
both troublesome and expensive. 

Although I was willing to purchase all supplies with 
either beads or copper bracelets, I found it was impossible 
to procure meat. The natives refused to sell either cattle 
or goats. This was most tantalizing, as not less than 
10,000 head of cattle filed by my camp every morning 
as they were driven from the town to pasturage. All this 
amount of beef paraded before me, and did not produce a 
steak ! Milk was cheap and abundant ; fowl were scarce ; 
corn was plentiful ; vegetables were unknown ; not even 
pumpkins were grown by the Latookas. 

Fortunately there was an abundance of small game in 
the shape of wild ducks, pigeons, doves; and a great 
variety of birds such as herons, cranes, spoonbills, &c. 
Travellers should always take as large a supply of shot as 
possible. I had four hundred weight, and prodigious 
quantities of powder and caps : thus I could at all times 
kill sufficient game for ourselves and people. There were 
a series of small marshy pools scattered over the country 



150 



WILD DUCK SHOOTING. 



[Chap. V. 



near the stream that ran through the- valley ; these were the 
resort of numerous ducks, which afforded exceUent sport 

The town of Tarrangolle' is situated at the foot of the 
mountain, about a mile from the stream, which is about 
eighty yards wide, but shallow. In the dry weather, water 
is obtained by weUs dug in the sandy bed, but during the 
r i am l ^r? a Slmple torrent not exceeding three feet in 
depth. The bed being sandy, the numerous banks, left dry 




DjvAKE s head. 



by the fluctuations of the stream, are most inviting spots 
for ducks ; and it was only necessary to wait under a tree, 
on the river's bank, to obtain thirty or forty shots in one 
morning as the ducks flew down the course of the stream. 
I found two varieties : the small brown duck with a grey 
head ; and a magnificent variety, as large as the Muscovy, 
having a copper - and - blue coloured tinselled back and 
wings, with a white but speckled head and neck. This 
duck had a curious peculiarity in a fleshy protuberance on 



Chap. V.] 



THE CRESTED CRANE, ETC. 



151 



the beak about as large as a half-crown. This stands erect, 
like a cock's comb. Both this, and the smaller variety,' 
were delicious eating. There were two varieties of geese 
— the only two that I have ever seen on the White Nile— 
the common Egyptian grey goose, and a large black and 
white bird with a crimson head and neck, and a red and 
yellow horny protuberance on the top of the head. This 
variety has a sharp spur upon the wing an inch long, and 




CRrMSON-HEADED SPUR-WINGED GOOSE. 



exceedingly powerful; it is used as a weapon of defence 
for striking, like the spurred wing of the plover. 

I frequently shot ten or twelve ducks, and as many 
cranes, before breakfast; among others the beautiful 
crested crane, called by the Arabs "garranook." The 
black velvet head of this crane, surrounded by a golden 
crest, was a favourite ornament of the Latookas, and they 
were immediately arranged as crests for their helmets. 
The neighbourhood of my camp would have made a 
fortune for a feather-dealer; it was literally strewn with 



152 ADDA'S PROPOSAL. [Chap. V. 

down and plumes. I was always attended every morning 
by a number of Latooka boys, who were eager sportsmen, 
and returned to camp daily laden with ducks and geese. 
No sooner did we arrive in camp than a number of boys 
volunteered to pluck the birds, which they did for the sake 
of the longest feathers, with which they immediately 
decked their woolly heads. Crowds of boys were to be seen 
with heads like cauliflowers, all dressed with the feathers 
of cranes and wild ducks. It appears to be accepted, 
both by the savage and civilized, that birds' feathers are 
specially intended for ornamenting the human head. 

It was fortunate that Nature had thus stocked Latooka 
with game. It was impossible to procure any other meat ; and 
not only were the ducks and geese to us what the quails were 
to the Israelites in the desert, but they enabled me to make 
presents to the natives that assured them of our good will. 

Although the Latookas were far better than other tribes 
that I had met, they were sufficiently annoying ; they gave 
me no credit for real good will, but they attributed my 
forbearance to weakness. On one occasion Adda, one of 
the chiefs, came to ask me to join him in attacking a 
village to procure molotes (iron hoes) ; he said, " Come 
along with me, bring your men and guns, and we will attack 
a village near here, and take their molotes and cattle ; you 
keep the cattle, and I will have the molotes." I asked him 
whether the village was in an enemy's country. " Oh 
no ! " he replied, " it is close here ; but the people are 
rather rebellious, and it will do them good to kill a few, 
and to take their molotes. If you are afraid, never mind, 
I will ask the Turks to do it." Thus forbearance on my 
part was supposed to be caused from weakness, and it was 
difficult to persuade them that it originated in a feeling of 
justice. This Adda most coolly proposed that we should 
plunder one of his own villages that was rather too 
"liberal" in its views. Nothing is more heartbreaking 
than to be so thoroughly misunderstood, and the obtuse - 
ness of the savages was such, that I never could make 
them understand the existence of good principle ; — their 
one idea was "power," — force that could obtain all — the 



Chap. VI.] THE FUNERAL DANCE. 153 

strong hand that could wrest from the weak. In disgust I 
frequently noted the feelings of the moment in my journal 
— a memorandum from which I copy as illustrative of the 
time. "1863, 10th April, Latooka. — I wish the black 
sympathisers in England could see Africa's inmost heart as 
I do, much of their sympathy would subside. Human 
nature viewed in its crude state as pictured amongst 
African savages is quite on a level with that of the brute, 
and not to be compared with the noble character of the 
dog. There is neither gratitude, pity, love, nor self-denial ; 
no idea of duty; no religion; but covetousness, ingratitude, 
selfishness and cruelty. All are thieves, idle, envious, and 
ready to plunder and enslave their weaker neighbours." 



CHAPTER VI. 

DEUMS were beating, horns blowing, and people were 
seen all running in one direction ; — the cause was a 
funeral dance, and I joined the crowd, and soon found 
myself in the midst of the entertainment. The dancers 
were most grotesquely got up. About a dozen huge 
ostrich feathers adorned their helmets ; either leopard or 
the black and white monkey skins were suspended from 
their shoulders, and a leather tied round the waist covered 
a large iron bell which was strapped upon the loins of each 
dancer, like a woman's old-fashioned bustle : this they 
rung to the time of the dance by jerking their posteriors in 
the most absurd manner. A large crowd got up in this 
style created an indescribable hubbub, heightened by the 
blowing of horns and the beating of seven nogaras of 
various notes. Every dancer wore an antelope's horn sus- 
pended round the neck, which he blew occasionally in the 
height of his excitement. These instruments produced a 
sound partaking of the braying of a donkey and the 



154 BAR! INTERPRETER. [Chap. VI. 

screech of an owl. Crowds of men rushed round and 
round in a sort of "galop infernel," brandishing their 
lances and iron-headed maces, and keeping tolerably in 
line five or six deep, following the leader who headed 
them, dancing backwards. The women kept outside the 
line, dancing a slow stupid step, and screaming a wild and 
most inharmonious chant; while a long string of young 
girls and small children, their heads and necks rubbed 
with red ochre and grease, and prettily ornamented with 
strings of beads around their loins, kept a very good line, 
beating the time with their feet, and jingling the numerous 
iron rings which adorned their ancles to keep time with 
the drums. One woman attended upon the men, running 
through the crowd with a gourd full of wood-ashes, hand- 
fuls of which she showered over their heads, powdering 
them like millers ; the object of the operation I could not 
understand. The " premiere danseuse " was immensely 
fat; she had passed the bloom of youth, but, "malgr^" 
her unwieldy state, she kept up the pace to the last, quite 
unconscious of her general appearance, and absorbed with 
the excitement of the dance. 

These festivities were to be continued in honour of the 
dead ; and as many friends had recently been killed, music 
and dancing would be in fashion for some weeks. 

There was an excellent interpreter belonging to Ibra- 
him's p"arty — a Bail lad of about eighteen. This boy had 
been in their service for some years, and had learnt 
Arabic, which he spoke fluently, although with a peculiar 
accent, owing to the extraction of the four front teeth of 
the lower jaw, according to the general custom. It was of 
great importance to obtain the confidence of Loggo, as my 
success depended much upon information that I might 
obtain from the natives ; therefore, whenever I sent for 
him to hold any conversation with the people, I invariably 
gave him a little present at parting. Accordingly he 
obeyed any summons from me with great alacrity, know- 
ing that the interview would terminate with a " bak- 
sheesh " (present). In this manner I succeeded in estab- 
lishing confidence, and he would frequently come uncalled 



Chap. VI.] COMMORO, THE LION. 155 

to my tent and converse upon all manner of subjects. 
The Latooka language is different to the Bari, and a second 
interpreter was necessary ; this was a sharp lad about the 
same age: thus the conversation was somewhat tedious, 
the medium being Bari and Latooka. 

The chief Commoro (the " Lion ") was one of the most 
clever and common-sense savages that I had seen in these 
countries, and the tribe paid far more deference to his 
commands than to those of his brother, " Moy," although 
the latter was the superior in rank. 

One day I sent for Commoro after the usual funeral 
dance was completed, and, through my two young inter- 
preters, I had a long conversation with him on the customs 
of his country. I wished if possible to fathom the origin 
of the extraordinary custom of exhuming the body after 
burial, as I imagined that in this act some idea might be 
traced to a belief in the resurrection. 

Commoro was, like all his people, extremely tall. Upon 
entering my tent he took his seat upon the ground, the 
Latookas not using stools like the other White Nile tribes. 
I commenced the conversation by complimenting him on 
the perfection of his wives and daughters in the dance, and 
on his own agility in the performance ; and inquired for 
whom the ceremony had been performed. 

He replied, that it was for a man who had been recently 
killed, but no one of great importance, the same ceremony 
being observed for every person without distinction. 

I asked him why those slain in battle were allowed to 
remain unburied. He said, it had always been the custom, 
but that he could not explain it. 

" But," I replied, " why should you disturb the bones of 
those whom you have already buried, and expose them on 
the outskirts of the town ? " 

" It was the custom of our forefathers," he answered, 
" therefore we continue to observe it." 

" Have you no belief in a future existence after death ? 
Is not some idea expressed in the act of exhuming the 
bones after the flesh is decayed ? " 

Commoro (loq.).—" Existence after death! How can 



156 CONVERSATION WITH COMMORO. [Chap. VI. 

that be ? Can a dead man get out of his grave, unless we 
dig him out ? " 

"Do you think man is like a beast, that dies and is 
ended ? " 

Commoro. — " Certainly ; an ox is stronger than a man ; 
but he dies, and his bones last longer ; they are bigger. A 
man's bones break quickly — he is weak." 

" Is not a man superior in sense to an ox ? Has he not 
a mind to direct his actions ? " 

Commoro. — "Some men are not so clever as an ox. 
Men must sow corn to obtain food, but the ox and wild 
animals can procure it without sowing." 

"Do you not know that there is a spirit within you 
more than flesh ? Do you not dream and wander in thought 
to distant places in your sleep ? Nevertheless, your body 
rests in one spot. How do you account for this ? " 

Commoro (laughing). — " Well, how do you account for it ? 
It is a thing I cannot understand ; it occurs to me every 
night." 

"The mind is independent of the body; — the actual 
body can be fettered, but the mind is uncontrollable ; the 
body will die and will become dust, or be eaten by 
vultures, but the spirit will exist for ever." 

Commoro. — " Where will the spirit live ? " 

" Where does fire live ? Cannot you produce a fire * by 
rubbing two sticks together, yet you see not the fire in the 
wood. Has not that fire, that lies harmless and unseen 
in the sticks, the power to consume the whole country? 
Which is the stronger, the small stick that first produces 
the fire, or the fire itself? So is the spirit the element 
within the body, as the element of fire exists in the stick ; 
the element being superior to the substance." 

Commoro. — " Ha ! Can you explain what we frequently 
see at night when lost in the wilderness ? I have myself 
been lost, and wandering in the dark, I have seen a distant 
fire ; upon approaching, the fire has vanished, and I have 
been unable to trace the cause — nor could I find the spot." 

" Have you no idea of the existence of spirits superior to 

* The natives always produce fire by rubbing two sticks together. 



Chap. VI.] " GOOL AND BAD ALL DIE:' 157 

■either man or beast? Have you no fear of evil except 
from bodily causes ? " 

Commoro. — " I am afraid of elephants and other animals 
when in the jungle at night, but of nothing else." 

" Then you believe in nothing ; neither in a good nor 
evil spirit ! And you believe that when you die it will 
be the end of body and spirit; that you are like other 
animals ; and that there is no distinction between man 
and beast ; both disappear, and end at death ? " 

Commoro. — " Of course they do." 

" Do you see no difference in good and bad actions ? " 

Commoro. — "Yes, there are good and bad in men and 
beasts." 

" Do you think that a good man and a bad must share 
the same fate, and alike die, and end ? " 

Commoro. — " Yes ; what else can they do ? How can 
they help dying ? Good and bad all die." 

" Their bodies perish, but their spirits remain ; the good 
in happiness, the bad in misery. If you have no belief 
in a future state, why should a man he good ? Why should 
he not be bad, if he can prosper by wickedness ? " 

Commoro. — " Most people are bad ; if they are strong they 
take from the weak. The good people are all weak ; they 
are good because they are not strong enough to be bad." 

Some corn had been taken out of a sack for the horses, 
and a few grains lying scattered on the ground, I tried 
the beautiful metaphor of St. Paul as an example of a 
future state. Making a small hole with my finger in the 
ground, I placed a grain within it : " That," I said, " re- 
presents you when you die." Covering it with earth, 
I continued, "That grain will decay, but from it will 
rise the plant that will produce a reappearance of the 
original form." 

Commoro. — "Exactly so: that I understand. But the 
original grain does not rise again; it rots like the dead 
man, and is ended; the fruit produced is not the same 
grain that we buried, but the production of that grain : 
so it is with man, — I die, and decay, and am ended ; 
but my children grow up like the fruit of the grain. 



158 FAILURE OF THE RELIGIOUS ARGUMENT. [Chap. VI. 

Some men have no children, and some grains perish 
without fruit; then all are ended." 

I was obliged to change the subject of conversation. 
In this wild naked savage there was not even a super- 
stition upon which to found a religious feeling; there 
was a belief in matter ; and to his understanding every- 
thing was material. It was extraordinary to find so much 
clearness of perception combined with such complete ob- 
tuseness to anything ideal. 

Giving up the religious argument as a failure, I resolved 
upon more practical inquiries. 

The Turks had only arrived in the Latooka country in 
the preceding year. They had not introduced the cowrie 
shell; but I observed that every helmet was ornamented 
with this species ; it therefore occurred to me that they 
must find their way into the country from Zanzibar. 

In reply to my inquiries, Commoro pointed to the south, 
from which he said they arrived in his country, but he 
had no idea from whence they came. The direction was 
sufficient to prove that they must be sent from the east 
coast, as Speke and Grant had followed the Zanzibar 
traders as far as Karagwe\ the 2° S. lat. 

Commoro could not possibly understand my object in 
visiting the Latooka country; it was in vain that I at- 
tempted"to explain the intention of my journey. He said, 
" Suppose you get to the great lake ; what will you do 
with it ? What will be the good of it ? If you find that 
the large river does flow from it, what then ? What's the 
good of it?" 

I could only assure him, that in England we had an 
intimate knowledge of the whole world, except the interior 
of Africa, and that our object in exploring was to benefit 
the hitherto unknown countries by instituting legitimate 
trade, and introducing manufactures from England in ex- 
change for ivory and other productions. He replied that 
the Turks would never trade fairly; that they were ex- 
tremely bad people, and that they would not purchase 
ivory in any other way than by bartering cattle, which 
they stole from one tribe to sell to another. 



Chap. VI.] HABITS OF THE CAMEL. 159 

Our conversation was suddenly terminated by one of 
my men running in to the tent with the bad news that 
one of the camels had dropped down and was dying. The 
report was too true. He was poisoned by a well-known 
plant that he had been caught in the act of eating. In a 
few hours he died. There is no more stupid animal than 
the camel. Nature has implanted in most animals an 
instinctive knowledge of the plants suitable for food, and 
they generally avoid those that are poisonous : but the 
camel will eat indiscriminately anything that is green; 
and if in a country where the plant exists that is well 
known by the Arabs as the "camel poison," watchers 
must always accompany the animals while grazing. The 
most fatal plant is a creeper, very succulent, and so 
beautifully green that its dense foliage is most attractive 
to the stupid victim. The stomach of the camel is very 
subject to inflammation, which is rapidly fatal. I have 
frequently seen them, after several days of sharp desert 
marching, arrive in good pasture, and die, within a few 
hours, of inflammation caused by repletion. It is ex- 
traordinary how they can exist upon the driest and 
apparently most innutritious food. When other animals 
are starving, the camel manages to pick up a subsist- 
ence, eating the ends of barren, leafless twigs, the dried 
sticks of certain shrubs, and the tough dry paper-like 
substance of the dome palm, about as succulent a break- 
fast as would be a green umbrella and a Times newspaper. 
With intense greediness the camel, although a hermit in 
simplicity of fare in hard times, feeds voraciously when 
in abundant pasture, always seeking the greenest shrubs. 
The poison-bush becomes a fatal bait. 

The camel is by no means well understood in Europe. 
Far from being the docile and patient animal generally 
described, it is quite the reverse, and the males are 
frequently dangerous. They are exceedingly perverse; 
and are, as before described, excessively stupid. For the 
great deserts they are wonderfully adapted, and without 
them it would be impossible to cross certain tracts of 
country for want of water. 



160 CAMEL'S PECULIAR CONSTITUTLON. [Chap. VI. 

Exaggerated accounts have been written respecting the 
length of time that a camel can travel without drinking. 
The period that the animal can subsist without suffering 
from thirst depends entirely upon the season and the 
quality of food. Precisely as in Europe sheep require 
but little water when fed upon turnips, so does the camel 
exist almost without drinking during the rainy season 
when pastured upon succulent and dewy herbage. During 
the hottest season, when green herbage ceases to exist in 
the countries inhabited by camels, they are led to watei 
every alternate day, thus they are supposed to drink once 
in forty-eight hours ; but when upon the march across 
deserts, where no water exists, they are expected to carry 
a load of from five to six hundred pounds, and to march 
twenty-five miles per day, for three days, without drinking, 
but to be watered on the fourth day. Thus a camel 
should drink the evening before the start, and he will 
carry his load one hundred miles without the necessity of 
drinking ; not, however, without suffering from thirst. On 
the third day's march, during the hot simoom, the camel 
should drink if possible ; but he can endure the fourth day. 

This peculiarity of constitution enables the camel to 
overcome obstacles of nature that would otherwise be in- 
surmountable. Not only can he travel over the scorching 
sand of the withering deserts, but he never seeks the shade. 
When released from his burden he kneels by his load in 
the burning sand, and luxuriates hi the glare of a sun that 
drives all other beasts to shelter. The peculiar spongy 
formation of the foot renders the camel exceedingly sure, 
although it is usual to believe that it is only adapted for 
flat, sandy plains. I have travelled over mountains so 
precipitous that no domestic animal but the camel could 
have accomplished the task with a load. This capability 
is not shared generally by the race, but by a breed belong- 
ing to the Hadendowa Arabs, between the Eed Sea and 
Taka. There is quite as great a variety in the breeds of 
camels as of horses. Those most esteemed in the Soodan 
are the Bishareen ; they are not so large as others, but are 
exceedingly strong and enduring. 



Chap. VI.] LOSS OF CAMEL A MISFORTUNE. 161 

The average value of a baggage camel among the Soodan 
Arabs is fifteen dollars, but a good "hygeen," or riding 
dromedary, is worth from fifty to a hundred and fifty 
dollars, according to his capabilities. A thoroughly good 
hygeen is supposed to travel fifty miles a day, and to 
continue this pace for five days, carrying only his rider 
and a small water-skin or girba. His action should be 
so easy that his long ambling trot should produce that 
peculiar movement adopted by a nurse when hushing a 
child to sleep upon her knee. This movement is delight- 
ful, and the quick elastic step of a first-class animal im- 
parts an invigorating spirit to the rider; and were it not 
for the intensity of the sun, he would willingly ride for 
ever. The difference of action and of comfort to the 
rider between a common camel and a high class hygeen 
is equal to that between a thoroughbred and a heavy 
dray-horse. 

However, with all the good qualities of a " Bishareen," 
my best camel was dead. This was a sad loss. So long 
as my animals were well I felt independent, and the death 
of this camel was equal to minus five cwt. of luggage. 
My men were so idle that they paid no attention to the 
animals, and the watcher who had been appointed to look 
after the four camels had amused himself by going to the 
Latooka dance. Thus was the loss of my best animal 
occasioned. 

So well had all my saddles and pads been arranged at 
Khartoum, that although we had marched seven days with 
exceedingly heavy loads, not one of the animals had a 
sore back. The donkeys were exceedingly fresh, but they 
had acquired a most disgusting habit. The Latookas are 
remarkably clean in their towns, and nothing unclean is 
permitted within the stockade or fence. Thus the outside, 
especially the neighbourhood of the various entrances, was 
excessively filthy, and my donkeys actually fattened as 
scavengers, like pigs. I remembered that my unfortunate 
German Johann Schmidt had formerly told me that he 
was at one time shooting in the Base country, where the 
grass had been burnt, and not a blade of vegetation was 

M 



162 ABUNDANCE OF GAME. [Chap. VI 

procurable. He had abundance of sport, and he fed his 
donkey upon the flesh of antelopes, which he ate with 
avidity, and throve exceedingly. It is a curious fact 
that donkeys should under certain circumstances become 
omnivorous, while horses remain clean feeders. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE country in the immediate neighbourhood of La- 
tooka was parched, as there had been no rain for 
some time. The latitude was 4° 35', longitude 32° 55' E.; 
the rains had commenced in February on the mountains 
on the south side of the valley, about eighteen miles 
distant. Every day there was an appearance of a storm ; 
the dark clouds gathered ominously around the peak of the 
G-ebel Lafeet above the town, but they were invariably 
attracted by the higher range on the opposite and south 
side of the valley, where they daily expended themselves 
at about 3 p.m. On that side of the valley the mountains 
rose to about 6,000 feet, and formed a beautiful object seen 
from my camp. It was most interesting to observe the 
embryo storms travel from Tarrangolle" in a circle, and 
ultimately crown the higher range before us, while the 
thunder roared and echoed from rock to rock across 
the plain. 

The Latookas assured me that at the foot of those 
mountains there were elephants and giraffes in abundance ; 
accordingly, I determined to make a reconnaissance of the 
country. 

On the following morning I started on horseback, with 
two of my people mounted, and a native guide, and rode 
through the beautiful valley of Latooka to the foot of the 
range. The first five or six miles were entirely de-pastured 
by the enormous herds of the Latookas who were driven 



Chap. VII] STORM. \ 63 

to that distance from the towns daily, all the country in 
the immediate vicinity being dried up. The valley was 
extremely fertile, but totally unoccupied and in a state of 
nature, being a wilderness of open plains, jungles, patches 
•of forest and gullies, that although dry evidently formed 
swamps during the wet season. When about eight miles 
from the town we came upon tracks of the smaller ante- 
lopes, which, although the weakest, are the most daring in 
approaching the habitations of man. A few miles farther 
on, we saw buffaloes and hartebeest, and shortly came 
upon tracks of giraffes. Just at this moment the inky 
clouds that as usual had gathered over Tarrangolle came 
circling around us, and presently formed so dense a canopy 
that the darkness wa£ like a partial eclipse. The thunder 
warned us with tremendous explosions just above us, while 
the lightning flashed almost at our feet with blinding 
vividness. A cold wind suddenly rushed through the 
hitherto calm air ; this is the certain precursor of rain in 
hot climates, the heavier cold air of the rain-cloud falling 
into the stratum of warmer and lighter atmosphere below. 
It did rain ; — in such torrents as only the inhabitants of 
tropical countries can understand. " Cover up the gun- 
locks ! " — and the pieces of mackintosh for that purpose 
were immediately secured hi their places. Well, let it 
rain ! — it is rather pleasant to be wet through in a country 
where the thermometer is seldom below 92° Fahr., espe- 
cially when there is no doubt of getting wet through; — 
not like the wretched drizzling rain of England, that chills 
you with the fear that perhaps your great-coat is not 
waterproof, but a regular douche bath, that would beat in 
the crown of a cheap hat. How delightful to be really 
cool in the centre of Africa ! I was charmingly wet — the 
water was running out of the heels of my shoes, which 
were overflowing; the wind howled over the flood that 
was pouring through the hitherto dry gullies, and in the 
course of ten minutes the whole scene had changed. It 
was no longer the tropics ; the climate was that of old 
England restored to me : the chilled air refreshed me, and 
I felt at home again. " How delightful ! " I exclaimed, as 

M2 



164 EFFECTS OF BAIN UPON NATIVES. [Chap. VII. 

I turned round to see how my followers were enjoying it 
Dear me ! I hardly knew my own people. Of all the 
miserable individuals I ever saw, they were superlative — 
they were not enjoying the change of climate in the least ; 
— with heads tucked down and streams of water running 
from their nasal extremities, they endeavoured to avoid 
the storm. Perfectly thoughtless of all but self in the 
extremity of their misery, they had neglected the precau- 
tion of lowering the muzzles of their guns, and my beau- 
tiful No. 10 rifles were full of water. " Charming day ! " 
I exclaimed to my soaked and shivering followers, who 
looked like kittens in a pond. They muttered something 
that might be interpreted " What's fun to you is death to 
us." I comforted them with the assurance that this was 
an English climate on a midsummer day. If my clothed 
Arabs suffered from cold, where was my naked guide ? He 
was the most pitiable object I ever saw ; with teeth chat- 
tering and knees knocking together with colu, he crouched 
under the imaginary shelter of a large tamarind tree; he 
was no longer the clean black that had started as my 
guide, but the cold and wet had turned him grey, and 
being thin, he looked like an exaggerated slate-pencil. 

Not wishing to discourage my men, I unselfishly turned 
back just as I was beginning to enjoy myself, and my 
people regarded me as we do the Polar bear at the 
Zoological Gardens, who begins to feel happy on the 
worst day in our English winter. 

We returned home by a different route, not being able 
to find the path in the trackless state of the country 
during the storm. There were in some places unmistake- 
able evidences of the presence of elephants, and I resolved 
to visit the spot again. I returned to the tent at 4 P.M. 
satisfied that sport was to be had. 

On my arrival at camp I found the natives very excited 
at the appearance of rain, which they firmly believed had 
been called specially by their chief. All were busy preparing 
their molotes (iron hoes), fitting new handles, and getting 
everything ready for the periodical sowing of their crop. 

The handles of the molotes are extremely long, from 



Chap. VII.] 



NATIVE BLACKSMITHS. 



165 



seven to ten feet, and the instrument being shaped like a 
miner's spade (heart-shaped), is used like a Dutch hoe, and 
is an effective tool in ground that has been cleared, but is 
very unfitted for preparing fresh soil. Iron ore of good 
quality exists on the surface throughout this country. 
The Latookas, like the Baris, are excellent blacksmiths, 




LATOOKA BLACK.SI.-I i'J.->. 



producing a result that would astonish an English work- 
man, considering the rough nature of their tools, which are 
confined to a hammer, anvil, and tongs ; the latter formed 
of a cleft-stick of green wood, while the two former are 
stones of various sizes. Their bellows consist of two pots 
about a foot deep ; from the bottom of each is an earthen- 



166 ARRANGE A HUNTING PARTY. [Chap. VII. 

ware pipe about two feet long, the points of which are 
inserted in a charcoal fire. The mouths of the pots are 
covered with very pliable leather, loose and well greased ; 
in the centre of each leather covering is an upright stick 
about four feet long, and the bellows-blower works these 
rapidly with a perpendicular motion, thus producing a 
strong blast. The natives are exceedingly particular in 
the shape of their molotes, and invariably prove them by 
balancing them on their heads and ringing them by a blow 
with the finger. 

The Latookas being much engaged in preparing for 
cultivation, I had some difficulty in arranging a hunting 
party ; my men abhorred the idea of elephant hunting, or 
of anything else that required hard work and included 
danger. However, I succeeded in engaging Adda, the 
third chief of Latooka, and several natives, to act as my 
guides, and I made my arrangements for a stated day. 

On the 17th of April I started at 5 a.m. with my three 
horses and two camels, the latter carrying water and food. 
After a march of two or three hours through the beautiful 
hunting-grounds formed by the valley of Latooka, with its 
alternate prairies and jungles, I came upon the tracks of 
rhinoceros, giraffes, and elephants, and shortly moved a 
rhinoceros, but could get no shot, owing to the thick bush 
in which he started and disappeared quicker than I could 
dismoifnt. After a short circuit in search of the rhinoceros, 
we came upon a largo herd of buffaloes, but at the same 
moment we heard elephants trumpeting at the foot of the 
mountains. Not wishing to fire, lest the great game 
should be disturbed, I contented myself with riding after 
the buffaloes, wonderfully followed on foot by Adda, who 
ran like a deer, and almost kept up with my horse, hurling 
his three lances successively at the buffaloes, but without 
success. I had left the camels in an open plain, and re- 
turning from the gallop after the buffaloes, I saw the men 
on the camels beckoning to me in great excitement. Can- 
tering towards them, they explained that a herd of bull 
elephants had just crossed an open space, and had passed 
into the jungle beyond. There was evidently abundance 



Chap. VII.] ELEPHANT HUNT. 167 

of game; and calling my men together, I told them to 
keep close to me with the spare horses and rifles, while I 
sent the Latookas ahead to look out for the elephants : we 
followed at a short distance. 

In about ten minutes we saw the Latookas hurrying 
towards us, and almost immediately after, I saw two 
enormous bull elephants with splendid tusks about a 
hundred yards from us, apparently the leaders of an ap- 
proaching herd. The ground was exceedingly favourable, 
being tolerably open, and yet with sufficient bush to afford 
a slight cover. Presently, several elephants appeared and 
joined the two leaders — there was evidently a considerable 
number in the herd, and I was on the point of dismount- 
ing to take the first shot on foot, when the Latookas, too 
eager, approached the herd : their red and blue helmets at 
once attracted the attention of the elephants, and a tre- 
mendous rush took place, the whole herd closing together 
and tearing off at full speed. " Follow me ! " I hallooed 
to my men, and touching my horse with the spur, I in- 
tended to dash into the midst of the herd. Just at that 
instant, in his start, my horse slipped and fell suddenly 
upon his side, falling upon my right leg and thus pinning 
me to the ground. He was not up to my weight, and re- 
leasing myself, I immediately mounted my old Abyssinian 
hunter, " T^tel," and followed the tracks of the elephants 
at full speed, accompanied by two of the Latookas, who 
ran like hounds. Galloping through the green but thorn- 
less bush, I soon came in sight of a grand bull elephant, 
steaming along like a locomotive engine straight before me. 
Digging in the spurs, I was soon within twenty yards of 
him ; but the ground was so unfavourable, being full of 
buffalo holes, that I could not pass him. In about a 
quarter of an hour, after a careful chase over deep ruts 
and gullies concealed in high grass, I arrived at a level 
space, and shooting ahead, I gave him a shoulder shot 
with the Eeilly No. 10 rifle. I saw the wound in a good 
place, but the bull rushed along all the quicker, and again 
we came into bad ground that made it unwise to close. 
However, on the first opportunity I made a dash by him, 



168 TETEL, MY OLD HUNTER. [Chap. VII. 

and fired my left-hand barrel at full gallop. He slackened 
his speed, but I could not bait to reload, lest I sbould lose 
sight of him in the high grass and bush. 

Not a man was with me to hand a spare rifle. My 
cowardly fellows, although light-weights and well mounted, 
were nowhere ; the natives were outrun, as of course was 
Kicharn, who, not being a good rider, had preferred to hunt 
on foot. In vain I shouted for the men ; and I followed 
the elephant with an empty rifle for about ten minutes, 
until he suddenly turned round, and stood facing me in an 
open spot in grass about nine or ten feet high. "Tetel" 
was a grand horse for elephants, not having the slightest 
fear, and standing fire like a rock, never even starting 
under the discharge of the heaviest charge of powder. I 
now commenced reloading, when presently one of my men, 
Yaseen, came up upon " Filfil." Taking a spare gun from 
him, I rode rapidly past the elephant, and suddenly reining 
up, I made a good shot exactly behind the bladebone. 
"With a shrill scream, the elephant charged down upon me 
like a steam-engine. In went the spurs. " T^tel " knew 
his work, and away he went over the ruts and gullies, the 
high dry grass whistling in my ears as we shot along at 
full speed, closely followed by the enraged bull for about 
two hundred yards. 

The elephant then halted ; and turning the horse's head, 
I again faced him and reloaded. I thought he was dying, 
as he stood with trunk drooping, and ears closely pressed 
back upon his neck. Just at this moment I heard the 
rush of elephants advancing through the green bush upon 
the rising ground above the hollow formed by the open 
space of high withered grass in which we were standing 
facing each other. My man Yaseen had bolted with his 
fleet horse at the first charge, and was not to be seen. 
Presently, the rushing sound increased, and the heads of 
a closely packed herd of about eighteen elephants showed 
above the low bushes, and they broke cover, bearing down 
directly upon me, both I and my horse being unobserved 
in the high grass. I never saw a more lovely sight ; they 
were all bulls with immense tusks. Waiting until thev 



Cha?. VII.] TRACK THE WOUNDED ELEPHANT. 169 

were within twenty yards of me, I galloped straight at 
them, giving a yell that turned them. Away they rushed 
up the hill, but at so great a pace, that upon the ratty and 
broken ground I could not overtake them, and they com- 
pletely distanced me. Tetel, although a wonderfully 
steady hunter, was an uncommonly slow horse, but upon 
this day he appeared to be slower than usual, and I was 
not at the time aware that he was seriously ilL By 
following three elephants separated from the herd I came 
up to them by a short cut, and singling out a fellow with 
enormous tusks, I rode straight at him. Finding himself 
overhauled, he charged me with such quickness and 
followed me up so far, that it was with the greatest 
difficulty that I cleared him. When he turned, I at once 
returned to the attack; but he entered a thick thorny 
jungle through which no horse could follow, and I failed 
to obtain a shot. 

I was looking for a path through which I could pene- 
trate the bush, when I suddenly heard natives shouting 
in the direction where I had left the wounded bull. 
Galloping towards the spot, I met a few scattered natives ; 
among others, Adda. After shouting for some time, at 
length Yaseen appeared upon my horse Filfil ; he had fled 
as usual when he saw the troop of elephants advancing, 
and no one knows how far he had ridden before he thought 
it safe to look behind him. With two mounted gun- 
bearers and five others on foot I had been entirely deserted 
through the cowardice of my men. The elephant that I 
had left as dying, was gone. One of the Latookas had 
followed upon his tracks, and we heard this fellow shouting 
in the distance. I soon overtook him, and he led rapidly 
upon the track through thick bushes and high grass. In 
about a quarter of an hour we came up with the elephant ; 
he was standing in bush, facing us at about fifty yards' 
distance, and immediately perceiving us, he gave a saucy 
jerk with his head, and charged most determinedly. It 
was exceedingly difficult to escape, owing to the bushes 
which impeded the horse, while the elephant crushed them 
like cobwebs : however, by turning my horse sharp round 



170 NEARLY CAUGHT. [Chap. VII. 

a tree, I managed to evade him after a chase of about a 
hundred and fifty yards. Disappearing in the jungle after 
his charge, I immediately followed him. The ground was 
hard, and so trodden by elephants that it was difficult to 
single out the track. There was no blood upon the ground, 
but only on the trees every now and then, where he had 
rubbed past them in his retreat. After nearly two hours 
passed in slowly following upon his path, we suddenly 
broke cover and saw him travelling very quietly through 
an extensive plain of high grass. The ground was gently 
inclining upwards on either side the plain, but the level 
was a mass of deep, hardened ruts, over which no horse 
could gallop. Knowing my friend's character, I rode up 
the rising ground to reconnoitre : I found it tolerably 
clear of holes, and far superior to the rutty bottom. My 
two mounted gun -bearers had now joined me, and far from 
enjoying the sport, they were almost green with fright, 
when I ordered them to keep close to me and to advance. 
I wanted them to attract the elephant's attention, so as to 
enable me to obtain a good shoulder shot. Eiding along 
the open plain, I at length arrived within about fifty 
yards of the bull, when he slowly turned. Eeining " Tetel" 
up, I immediately fired a steady shot at the shoulder with 
the Eeilly ISTo. 10 : — for a moment he fell upon his knees, 
but, recovering with wonderful quickness, he was in full 
charge "upon me. Fortunately I had inspected my ground 
previous to the attack, and away I went up the inclination 
to my right, the spurs hard at work, and the elephant 
screaming with rage, gaining on me. My horse felt as 
though made of wood, and clumsily rolled along in a 
sort of cow-gallop ; — in vain I dug the spurs into his 
flanks, and urged him by rein and voice; not an extra 
stride could I get out of him, and he reeled along as 
though thoroughly exhausted, plunging in and out of the 
buffalo holes instead of jumping them. Hamed was on 
my horse " Mouse," who went three to " Tetel's" one, and 
instead of endeavouring to divert the elephant's attention, 
he shot ahead, and thought of nothing but getting out of 
the way. Yaseen, on " Filfil/' had fled in another direction; 




, I 



Chap. VII.] RETURN TO CAMP. 171 

thus I had the pleasure of being hunted down upon a 
sick and disabled horse. I kept looking round, thinking 
that the elephant would give in : — we had been running 
for nearly half a mile, and the brute was overhauling me 
so fast that he was within ten or twelve yards of the 
horse's tail, with his trunk stretched out to catch him. 
Screaming like the whistle of an engine, he fortunately so 
frightened the horse that he went his best, although badly, 
and I turned him suddenly down the hill and doubled 
back like a hare. The elephant turned up the hill, and 
entering the jungle he relinquished the chase, when 
another hundred yards' run would have bagged me. 

In a life's experience in eleph ant-hunting, I never was 
hunted for such a distance. Great as were Tetel's good 
qualities for pluck and steadiness, he had exhibited such 
distress and want of speed, that I was sure he failed 
through some sudden malady. I immediately dismounted, 
and the horse laid down, as I thought, to die. 

Whistling loudly, I at length recalled Hamed, who had 
still continued his rapid flight without once looking back, 
although the elephant was out of sight. Yaseen was, of 
course, nowhere ; but after a quarter of an hour's shouting 
and whistling, he reappeared, and I mounted Filfil, 
ordering Tetel to be led home. 

The sun had just sunk, and the two Latookas who now 
joined me refused to go farther on the tracks, saying, that 
the elephant must die during the night, and that they 
would find him in the morning. We were at least ten 
miles from camp ; I therefore fired a shot to collect my 
scattered men, and in about half an hour we all joined 
together, except the camels and their drivers, that we had 
left miles behind. . 

No one had tasted food since the previous day, nor had 
I drunk water, although the sun had been burning hot ; I 
now obtained some muddy rain water from a puddle, and 
we went towards home, where we arrived at half-past 
eight, every one tired with the day's work. The camels 
came into camp about an hour later. 

My men were all now wonderfully brave ; each had 



172 AFRICAN AND INDIAN ELEPHANTS. [Chap. VII. 

some story of a narrow escape, and several declared that 
the elephants had run over them, but fortunately without 
putting their feet upon them. 

The news spread through the town that the elephant 
was killed ; and, long before daybreak on the following 
morning, masses of natives had started for the jungles, 
where they found him lying dead. Accordingly, they 
stole his magnificent tusks, which they carried to the 
town of Wakkala, and confessed to taking all the flesh, 
but laid the blame of the ivory theft upon the Wakkala 
tribe. 

There was no redress. The questions of a right of game 
are ever prolific of bad blood, and it was necessary in this 
instance to treat the matter lightly. Accordingly, the 
natives requested me to go out and shoot them another 
elephant: on the condition of obtaining the meat, they 
were ready to join in any hunting expedition. 

The elephants in Central Africa have very superior 
tusks to those of Abyssinia. I had shot a considerable 
number in the Base" country on the frontier of Abyssinia, 
and few tusks were above 30 lbs. weight; those in the 
neighbourhood of the "White Nile average about 50 lbs. for 
each tusk of a bull elephant, while those of the females 
are generally about 10 lbs. I have seen monster tusks of 
160 lbs., and one was in the possession of a trader, Mons. P., 
that weighed 172 lbs. 

It is seldom that a pair of tusks are alike. As a man 
uses the right hand in preference to the left, so the ele- 
phant works with a particular tusk, which is termed by 
the traders "el Hadam" (the servant); this is naturally 
more worn than the other, and is usually about ten pounds 
lighter : frequently it is broken, as the elephant uses it as 
a lever to uproot trees and to tear up the roots of various 
bushes upon which he feeds. 

The African elephant is not only entirely different from 
the Indian species in his habits, but he also differs in 
form. 

There are three distinguishing peculiarities. The back 
of the African elephant is concave, that of the Indian is 



Chap. VII] FOOD OF ELEPHANTS. 173 

convex ; the ear of the African is enormous, entirely cover- 
ing the shoulder when thrown back, while the ear of the 
Indian variety is comparatively small. The head of the 
African has a convex front, the top of the skull sloping 
back at a rapid inclination, while the head of the Indian 
elephant exposes a flat surface a little above the trunk. 
The average size of the African elephant is larger than 
those of Ceylon, although I have occasionally shot monster 
rogues in the latter country, equal to anything that I have 
seen in Africa. The average height of female elephants in 
Ceylon is about 7 ft. 10 in. at the shoulder, and that of the 
males is about 9 ft. ; but the usual height of the African 
variety I have found, by actual measurement, of females 
to be 9 ft., while that of the bulls is 10 ft. 6 in. Thus the 
females of the African are equal to the males of Ceylon. 

They also differ materially in their habits. In Ceylon, 
the elephant seeks the shade of thick forests at the rising 
of the sun, in which he rests until about 5 p.m., when he 
wanders forth upon the plains. In Africa, the country 
being generally more open, the elephant remains through- 
out the day either beneath a solitary tree, or exposed to 
the sun in the vast prairies, where the thick grass attains 
a height of from nine to twelve feet. The general food of 
the African elephant consists of the foliage of trees, espe- 
cially of mimosas. In Ceylon, although there are many 
trees that serve as food, the elephant nevertheless is an 
extensive grass- feeder. The African variety, being almost 
exclusively a tree-feeder, requires his tusks to assist him 
in procuring food. Many of the mimosas are flat-headed, 
about thirty feet high, and the richer portion of the foliage 
confined to the crown ; thus the elephant, not being able to 
reach to so great a height, must overturn the tree to pro- 
cure the coveted food. The destruction caused by a herd 
of African elephants in a mimosa forest is extraordinary ; 
and I have seen trees uprooted of so large a size, that I 
am convinced no single elephant could have overturned 
them. I have measured trees four feet six inches in cir- 
cumference, and about thirty feet high, uprooted by 
elephants. The natives have assured me that they mutually 



174 AFRICAN AND CEYLON ELEPHANTS. [Chap. VII. 

assist each other, and that several engage together in the 
work of overturning a large tree. None of the mimosas 
have tap-roots ; thus the powerful tusks of the elephants, 
applied as crowbars at the roots, while others pull at the 
branches with their trunks, will effect the destruction of a 
tree so large as to appear invulnerable. The Ceylon 
elephant rarely possessing tusks, cannot destroy a tree 
thicker than the thigh of an ordinary man. 

In Ceylon, I have seldom met old bulls in parties — they 
are generally single or remain in pairs; but, in Africa, 
large herds are met with, consisting entirely of bulls. 1 
have frequently seen sixteen or twenty splendid bulls 
together, presenting a show of ivory most exciting to a 
hunter. The females in Africa congregate in vast herds of 
many hundreds, while in Ceylon the herds seldom average 
more than ten. 

The elephant is by far the most formidable of all 
animals, and the African variety is more dangerous than 
the Indian, as it is next to impossible to kill it by the 
forehead shot. The head is so peculiarly formed, that the 
ball either passes over the brain, or lodges in the immensely 
solid bones and cartilages that contain the roots of the 
tusks. I have measured certainly a hundred bull tusks, 
and I have found them buried in the head a depth of 
24 inches. One large tusk, that measured 7 ft. H in. 
in length", and 22 inches in girth, was imbedded in the 
head a depth of 31 inches. This will convey an idea 
of the enormous size of the head, and of the strength of 
bone and cartilage required to hold in position so great a 
weight, and to resist the strain when the tusk is used as 
a lever to uproot trees. 

The brain of an African elephant rests upon a plate of 
bone exactly above the roots of the upper grinders ; it is 
thus wonderfully protected from a front shot, as it lies so 
low that the ball passes above it when the elephant raises 
his head, which he invariably does when in anger, until 
close to the object of his attack. 

The character of the country naturally influences the 
habits of the animals : thus, Africa being more generally 



Chap. VII.] RIFLES AND B ULLETS EOR HEAVY GAME. 1 75 

open than the forest-clad Ceylon, the elephant is more 
accustomed to activity, and is mnch faster than the Ceylon 
variety. Being an old elephant-hunter of the latter island, 
I was exceedingly interested in the question of variety of 
species, and I had always held the opinion that the African 
elephant might be killed with the same facility as that of 
Ceylon, by the forehead shot, provided that a sufficient 
charge of powder were used to penetrate the extra thick- 
ness of the head. I have found, by much experience, that 
I was entirely wrong, and that, although by chance an 
African elephant may be killed by the front shot, it is the 
exception to the rule. The danger of the sport is, accord- 
ingly, much increased, as it is next to impossible to kill 
the elephant when in full charge, and the only hope of 
safety consists in turning him by a continuous fire with 
heavy guns : this cannot always be effected. 

I had a powerful pair of No. 10 polygroove rifles, made 
by Eeilly of Oxford Street ; they weighed fifteen pounds, 
and carried seven drachms of powder without a disagree- 
able recoil. The bullet was a blunt cone, one and a half 
diameter of the bore, and I used a mixture of nine-tenths 
lead and one-tenth quicksilver for the hardening of the 
projectile. This is superior to all mixtures for that pur- 
pose, as it combines hardness with extra weight ; the lead 
must be melted in a pot by itself to a red heat, and the 
proportion of quicksilver must be added a ladle-full at a 
time, and stirred quickly with a piece of iron just in 
sufficient quantity to make three or four bullets. If the 
quicksilver is subjected to a red heat in the large lead-pot, 
it will evaporate. The only successful forehead shot that 
I made at an African elephant was shortly after my arrival 
in the Abyssinian territory on the Settite river ; this was 
in thick thorny jungle, and an elephant from the herd 
charged with such good intention, that had she not been 
stopped, she must have caught one of the party. When 
within about five yards of the muzzle, I killed her dead by 
a forehead shot with a hardened bullet as described, from a 
Eeilly No. 10 rifle, and we subsequently recovered the 
bullet in the vertebra of the neck ! 



176 THE " BABY." [Chap. VII. 

This extraordinary penetration led me to suppose that I 
should always succeed as I had done in Ceylon, and I have 
frequently stood the charge of an African elephant until 
close upon me, determined to give the forehead shot a fair 
trial, but I have always failed, except in the instance now 
mentioned ; it nmst also be borne in mind that the elephant 
was a female, with a head far inferior in size and solidity 
to that of the male. 

The temple shot, and that behind the ear, are equally 
fatal in Africa as in Cey]on, provided the hunter can 
approach within ten or twelve yards ; but altogether the 
hunting is far more difficult, as the character of the country 
does not admit of an approach sufficiently close to guaran- 
tee a successful shot. In the forests of Ceylon an elephant 
can be stalked to within a few paces, and the shot is seldom 
fired at a greater distance than ten yards : thus accuracy of 
aim is insured ; but in the open ground of Africa, an 
elephant can seldom be approached within fifty yards, and 
should he charge the hunter, escape is most difficult. I 
never found African elephants in good jungle, except once, 
and on that occasion I shot five, quite as quickly as we 
should kill them in Ceylon. 

The character of the sport must vary according to the 
character of the country ; thus there may be parts of Africa 
at variance with my description. I only relate my own 
experience. 

Among other weapons, I had an extraordinary rifle that 
carried a half-pound percussion shell — this instrument of 
torture to the hunter was not sufficiently heavy for the 
weight of the projectile ; it only weighed twenty pounds : 
thus, with a charge of ten drachms of powder, behind a 
half-pound shell, the recoil was so terrific, that I was spun 
round like a weathercock in a hurricane. I really dreaded 
my own rifle, although I had been accustomed to heavy 
charges of powder and severe recoil for many years. 
None of my men could fire it, and it was looked upon 
with a species of awe, and was named " Jenna el Mootfah" 
(child of a cannon) by the Arabs, which being far too long 
a name for practice, I christened it the "Baby;" and the 



Chap. VII.] ELEPHANT PITFALLS. 177 

scream of this "Baby," loaded with a half-pound shell, 
was always fatal. It was far too severe, and I very seldom 
fired it, but it is a curious fact, that I never fired a shot 
with that rifle without bagging : the entire practice, during 
several years, was confined to about twenty shots. I was 
afraid to use it ; but now and then it was absolutely neces- 
sary that it should be cleaned, after lying for months 
loaded. On such occasions my men had the gratification 
of firing it, and the explosion was always accompanied by 
two men falling on their backs (one having propped up 
the shooter), and the "Baby" flying some yards behind 
them. This rifle was made by Holland, of Bond Street, 
and I could highly recommend it for Goliath of G-ath, but 
not for men of a.d. 1866. 

The natives of Central Africa generally hunt the 
elephant for the sake of the flesh, and prior to the 
commencement of the White Nile trade by the Arabs, 
and the discovery of the Upper White Nile to the 5° 
N. lat. by the expedition sent by Mehemet Ali Pasha, 
the tusks were considered as worthless, and were treated 
as bones. The death of an elephant is a grand affair for 
the natives, as it supplies flesh for an enormous number 
of people, also fat, which is the great desire of all savages 
for internal and external purposes. There are various 
methods of killing them. Pitfalls are the most common, 
but the wary old bulls are seldom caught in this manner. 
The position chosen for the pit is, almost without ex- 
ception, in the vicinity of a drinking-place, and the natives 
exhibit a great amount of cunning in felling trees across 
the usual run of the elephants, and sometimes cutting an 
open pit across the path, so as to direct the elephant by 
such obstacles into the path of snares. The pits are 
usually about twelve feet long, and three feet broad, by 
nine deep ; these are artfully made, decreasing towards the 
bottom to the breadth of a foot. The general elephant 
route to the drinking-place being blocked up, the animals 
are diverted by a treacherous path towards the water, the 
route intersected by numerous pits, all of which are 
carefully concealed by sticks and straw, the latter being 



178 CIRCLING THE ELEPHANTS WITH FIRE. [Chap. VII. 

usually strewn with elephants' dung to create a natural 
effect. 

Should an elephant, during the night, fall through the 
deceitful surface, his foot becomes jammed in the bottom 
of the narrow grave, and he labours shoulder deep, with 
two feet in the pitfall so fixed that extrication is im- 
possible. Should one animal be thus caught, a sudden 
panic seizes the rest of the herd, and in their hasty retreat 
one or more are generally victims to the numerous pits 
in the vicinity. The old bulls never approach a watering- 
place rapidly, but carefully listen for danger, and then 
slowly advance with their warning trunks stretched to the 
path before them; the delicate nerves of the proboscis 
at once detect the hidden snare, and the victims to pitfalls 
are the members of large herds who, eager to push forward 
incautiously, put their " foot into it," like shareholders in 
bubble companies. Once helpless in the pit, they are 
easily killed with lances. 

The great elephant hunting season is in January, when 
the high prairies are parched and reduced to straw. At 
such a time, should a large herd of animals be discovered, 
the natives of the entire district collect together to the 
number of perhaps a thousand men; surrounding the 
elephants by embracing a considerable tract of country, 
they fire the grass at a given signal. In a few minutes 
the unconscious elephants are surrounded by a circle of 
fire, which, however distant, must eventually close in upon 
them. The men advance with the fire, which rages to the 
height of twenty or thirty feet. At length the elephants, 
alarmed by the volumes of smoke and the roaring of the 
flames, mingled with the shouts of the hunters, attempt 
an escape. They are hemmed in on every side — wherever 
they rush, they are met by an impassable barrier of flames 
and smoke, so stifling, that they are forced to retreat. 
Meanwhile the fatal circle is decreasing; buffaloes and 
antelopes, likewise doomed to a horrible fate, crowd panic- 
stricken to the centre of the encircled ring, and the raging 
fire sweeps over all. Burnt and blinded by fire and 
smoke, the animals are now attacked by the savage crowd 



Chap. VII.] THE BAGARA ELEPHANT HUNTERS. 179 

of hunters, excited by the helplessness of the unfortunate 
elephants thus miserably sacrificed, and they fall under 
countless spears. This destructive method of hunting 
ruins the game of that part of Africa, and so scarce are 
the antelopes, that, in a day's journey, a dozen head are 
seldom seen in the open prairie. 

The next method of hunting is perfectly legitimate. 
Should many elephants be in the neighbourhood, the 
natives post about a hundred men in as many large trees ; 
these men are armed with heavy lances specially adapted 
to the sport, with blades about eighteen inches long and 
three inches broad. The elephants are driven by a great 
number of men towards the trees in which the spearmen 
are posted, and those that pass sufficiently near are speared 
between the shoulders. The spear being driven deep into 
the animal, creates a frightful wound, as the tough handle, 
striking against the intervening branches of trees, acts as 
a lever, and works the long blade of the spear within the 
elephant, cutting to such an extent that he soon drops 
from exhaustion. 

The best and only really great elephant-hunters of the 
White Nile are the Bagara Arabs, on about the 13° 1ST. lat. 
These men hunt on horseback, and kill the elephant in 
fair fight with their spears. 

The lance is about fourteen feet long, of male bamboo ; 
the blade is about fourteen inches long by nearly three 
inches broad ; this is as sharp as a razor. Two men, thus 
armed and mounted, form the hunting party. Should they 
discover a herd, they ride up to the finest tusker and 
single him from the others. One man now leads the way, 
and the elephant, finding himself pressed, immediately 
charges the horse. There is much art required in leading 
the elephant, who follows the horse with great deter- 
mination, and the rider adapts his pace so as to keep his 
horse so near the elephant that his attention is entirety 
absorbed with the hope of catching him. The other 
hunter should by this time have followed close to the 
elephant's heels, and, dismounting when at full gallop 
with wonderful dexterity, he plunges his spear with both 

n2 



180 IBRAHIM'S RETURN. [Chap. VIII. 

hands into the elephant about two feet be]ow the junction 
of the tail, and with all his force he drives the spear about 
eight feet into his abdomen, and withdraws it immediately. 
Should he be successful in his stab, he remounts his horse 
and flies, or does his best to escape on foot, should he not 
have time to mount, as the elephant generally turns to 
pursue him. His comrade immediately turns his horse, 
and, dashing at the elephant, in his turn dismounts, and 
drives his lance deep into his intestines. 

Generally, if the first thrust is scientifically given, the 
bowels protrude to such an extent that the elephant is 
at once disabled. Two good hunters will frequently kill 
several out of one herd ; but in this dangerous hand-to- 
hand fight the hunter is often the victim. Hunting the 
elephant on horseback is certainly far less dangerous than 
on foot, but although the speed of the horse is undoubtedly 
superior, the chase generally takes place upon ground so 
disadvantageous, that he is liable to fall, in which case 
there is little chance for either animal or rider. 

So savage are the natural instincts of Africans, that they 
attend only to the destruction of the elephant, and never 
attempt its domestication. 



CHAPTEE VIII. 

IBEAHIM returned from Gondokoro, bringing with 
him a large supply of ammunition. A wounded. man 
of Chenooda's people also arrived, the sole relic of the 
fight with the Latookas ; he had been left for dead, but 
had recovered, and for days and nights he had wandered 
about the country, in thirst and hunger, hiding like a 
wild beast from the sight of human beings, his guilty 
conscience marking every Latooka as an enemy. As a 
proof of the superiority of the natives to the Khar- 
toumers, he had at length been met by some Latookas, 



Chap. VIII.] THE AFRICAN BLACK. 181 

and not only was well treated and fed by their women, 
but tbey bad guided him to Ibrahim's camp. 

The black man is a curious anomaly, the good and 
bad points of human nature bursting forth without any 
arrangement, like the flowers and thorns of his own 
wilderness. A creature of impulse, seldom actuated by 
reflection, the black man astounds by his complete ob- 
tuseness, and as suddenly confounds you by an unexpected 
exhibition of sympathy.. From a long experience with 
African savages, I think it is as absurd to condemn the 
negro in toto, as it is preposterous to compare his intel- 
lectual capacity with that of the white man. It is un- 
fortunately the fashion for one party to uphold the negro 
as a superior being, while the other denies him the 
common powers of reason. So great a difference of 
opinion has ever existed upon the intrinsic value of the 
negro, that the very perplexity of the question is a proof 
that he is altogether a distinct variety. So long as it is 
generally considered that the negro and the white man are 
to be governed by the same laws and guided by the same 
management, so long will the former remain a thorn in 
the side of every community to which he may unhappily 
belong. When the horse and the ass shall be found to 
match in double harness, the white man and the African 
black will pull together under the same regime. It is the 
grand error of equalizing that which is unequal, that 
has lowered the negro character, and made the black man 
a reproach. 

In his savage home, what is the African ? Certainly 
bad; but not so bad as white men would (I believe) be 
under similar circumstances. He is acted upon by the 
bad passions inherent in human nature, but there is no 
exaggerated vice, such as is found in civilized countries. 
The strong takes from the weak, one tribe fights the other 
— do not perhaps we in Europe ? — these are the legitimate 
acts of independent tribes, authorized by their chiefs. 
They mutually enslave each other — how long is it since 
America and we ourselves ceased to be aveholders ? He 
is callous and ungrateful — in Europe is there no nigra- 



182 VARIETIES IN CREATION. [Chap. VIII. 

titude ? He is cunning and a liar by nature — in Europe 
is all truth and sincerity? Why should the black man 
not be equal to the white ? He is as powerful in frame, 
why should he not be as exalted in mind ? 
itvln childhood I believe the negro to be in advance, in 
intellectual quickness, of the white child of a similar age, 
but the mind does not expand— it promises fruit, but does 
not ripen ; and the negro man has grown in body, but not 
advanced in intellect. 

The puppy of three months old is superior in intellect to 
a child of the same age, but the mind of the child expands, 
while that of the dog has arrived at its limit. The chicken 
of the common fowl has sufficient power and instinct to 
run in search of food the moment that it leaves the egg, 
while the young of the eagle lies helpless in its nest ; but 
the young eagle outstrips the chicken in the course of time. 
The earth presents a wonderful example of variety in all 
classes of the human race, the animal and vegetable king- 
doms. People, beasts, and plants belonging to distinct 
classes, exhibit special qualities and peculiarities. The 
existence of many hundred varieties of dogs cannot inter- 
fere with the fact that they belong to one genus : the 
greyhound, pug, bloodhound, pointer, poodle, mastiff, and 
toy. terrier, are all as entirely different in their peculiar 
instincts as are the varieties of the human race. The dif- 
ferent fruits and flowers continue the example ;— the wild 
grapes of the forest are grapes, but although they belong 
to the same class, they are distinct from the luscious 
"Muscatel;" and the wild dog-rose of the hedge, although 
of the. same class, is inferior to the moss-rose of the 
garden.: 

From fruits and flowers we may turn to insect life, and 
watch the air teeming with varieties of the same species, 
the thousands of butterflies and beetles, the many members 
of each class varying in instincts and peculiarities. Fishes, 
and even shellfish, all exhibit the same arrangement,— 
that every group is divided into varieties all differing 
from each other, and each distinguished by some peculiar 
excellence or defect. 



Chap. VIII.] 



THE NEGRO. 



183 



In the great system of creation that divided races and 
subdivided them according to mysterious laws, apportion- 
ing special qualities to each, the varieties of the human 
race exhibit certain characters and qualifications which 
adapt them for specific localities. The natural character 
of those races will not alter with a change of locality, but 
the instincts of each race will be developed in any country 
where they may be located. Thus, the English are as 
English in Australia, India, and America, as they are in 
England, and in every locality they exhibit the industry 
and energy of their native land ; even so the African will 
remain negro in all his natural instincts, although trans- 
planted to other soils ; and those natural instincts being a 
love of idleness and savagedom, he will assuredly relapse 
into an idle and savage state, unless specially governed 
and forced to industry. 

The history of the negro has proved the correctness of 
this theory. In no instance has he evinced other than a 
retrogression, when once freed from restraint. Like a horse 
without harness, he runs wild, but, if harnessed, no animal 
is more useful. Unfortunately, this is contrary to public 
opinion in England, where the vox jpopuli assumes the right 
of dictation upon matters and men in which it has had 
no experience. The English insist upon their own weights 
and measures as the scales for human excellence, and it has 
been decreed by the multitude, inexperienced in the negro 
personally, that he has been a badly-treated brother; that 
he is a worthy member of the human family, placed in an 
inferior position through the prejudice and ignorance of the 
white man, with whom he should be upon equality. 

The negro has been, and still is, thoroughly misunder- 
stood. However severely we may condemn the horrible 
system of slavery, the results of emancipation have proved 
that the negro does not appreciate the blessings of freedom, 
nor does he show the slightest feeling of gratitude to the 
hand that broke the rivets of his fetters. His narrow mind 
cannot embrace that feeling of pure philanthropy that 
first prompted England to declare herself against slavery, 
and he only regards the anti-slavery movement as a proof 



184 NEGRO'S INDISPOSITION TO WORK. [Chap. VIII. 

of his own importance. In his limited horizon he is 
himself the important object, and, as a sequence to his 
self-conceit, he imagines that the whole world is at issue 
concerning the black man. The negro, therefore, being the 
important question, must be an important person, and he 
conducts himself accordingly — he is far too great a man to 
work. Upon this point his natural character exhibits itself 
most determinedly. Accordingly, he resists any attempt 
at coercion; being free, his first impulse is to claim an 
equality with those whom he lately served, and to usurp 
a dignity with absurd pretensions, that must inevit- 
ably insure the disgust of the white community. Ill-will 
thus engendered, a hatred and jealousy is established 
between the two races, combined with the errors that in 
such conditions must arise upon both sides. The final 
question remains, Why was the negro first introduced into 
our colonies — and to America ? 

The sun is the great arbitrator between the white and 
the black man. There are productions necessary to civilized 
countries, that can alone be cultivated in tropical climates, 
where the white man cannot live if exposed to labour in 
the sun. Thus, such fertile countries as the West Indies 
and portions of America being without a native population, 
the negro was originally imported as a slave to fulfil the 
conditions of a labourer. In his own country he was a 
wild savage, and enslaved his brother man; he thus be- 
came a victim to his own system; to the institution of 
slavery that is indigenous to the soil of Africa, and that 
has not been taught to the African by the white man, as is 
currently reported, but that has ever been the peculiar 
characteristic of African tribes. 

In his state of slavery the negro was compelled to work, 
and, through his labour, every country prospered where he 
had been introduced. He was suddenly freed ; and from 
that moment he refused to work, and instead of being a 
useful member of society, he not only became a useless 
burden to the community, but a plotter and intriguer, 
imbued with a deadly hatred to the white 'man who had 
generously declared him free. 



Chap. VIIL] NEGRO SLAVE-HUNTERS. 185 

Now, as the negvo was originally imported as a labourer, 
but now refuses to labour, it is self-evident that he is a 
lamentable failure. Either he must be compelled to work, 
by some stringent law against vagrancy, or those beautiful 
countries that prospered under the conditions of negro 
forced industry must yield to ruin, under negro freedom 
and idle independence. For an example of the results 
look to St. Domingo ! 

Under peculiar guidance, and subject to a certain 
restraint, the negro may be an important and most useful 
being ; but if treated as an Englishman, he will affect the 
vices but none of the virtues of civilization, and his natural 
good qualities will be lost in his attempts to become a 
" white man." 

Revenons a nos moutons noirs. It was amusing to 
watch the change that took place in a slave that had been 
civilized (?) by the slave-traders. Among their parties, 
there were many blacks who had been captured, and who 
enjoyed the life of slave-hunting — nothing appeared so 
easy as to become professional in cattle razzias and kid- 
napping human beings, and the first act of the slave was 
to procure a slave for himself ! All the best slave-hunters, 
and the boldest and most energetic scoundrels, were the 
negroes who had at one time themselves been kidnapped. 
These fellows aped a great and ridiculous importance. On 
the march they would seldom condescend to carry their 
own guns ; a little slave boy invariably attended to his 
master, keeping close to his heels, and trotting along on 
foot during a long march, carrying a musket much longer 
than himself : a woman generally carried a basket with a 
cooking-pot, and a gourd of water and provisions, while a 
hired native carried the soldier's change of clothes and 
ox-hide upon which he slept. Thus the man who had 
been kidnapped became the kidnapper, and the slave 
became the master, the only difference between him and 
the Arab being an absurd notion of his own dignity. It 
was in vain that I attempted to reason with them against 
the principles of slavery : they thought it wrong when 
they were themselves the sufferers, but were always ready 



186 IBRAHIM AW A. [Chap. VIIL 

to indulge in it" when the preponderance of power lay upon 
their side. 

Among Ibrahim's people, there was a black named Ibra- 
himawa. This fellow was a native of Bornu, and had 
been taken when a boy of twelve years old and sold at 
Constantinople ; he formerly belonged to Mehemet Ali 
Pasha ; he had been to London and Paris, and during the 
Crimean war he was at Kertch. Altogether he was a great 
traveller, and he had a natural taste for geography and 
botany, that marked him as a wonderful exception to the 
average of the party. He had run away from his master 
in Egypt, and had been vagabondizing about in Khartoum 
in handsome clothes, negro-like, persuading himself that 
the public admired him, and thought that he was a Bey. 
Having soon run through his money, he had engaged him- 
self to Koorshid Aga to serve in his White Nile expedi- 
tion. He was an excellent example of the natural instincts 
of the negro remaining intact under all circumstances. 
Although remarkably superior to his associates, his small 
stock of knowledge was combined with such an exagge- 
rated conceit, that he was to me a perpetual source of 
amusement, while he was positively hated by his com- 
rades, both by Arabs and blacks, for his overbearing be- 
haviour. Having seen many countries, he was excessively 
fond of recounting his adventures, all of which had so 
strong a colouring of the "Arabian Nights," that he might 
have been the original " Sinbad the Sailor." His natural 
talent for geography was really extraordinary ; he would 
frequently pay me a visit, and spend hours in drawing 
maps with a stick upon the sand, of the countries he had 
visited, and especially of the Mediterranean, and the course 
from Egypt and Constantinople to England. Unfortunately, 
some long story was attached to every principal point of the 
voyage. The descriptions most interesting to me were those 
connected with the west bank of the White Nile, as he had 
served some years with the trading party, and had pene- 
trated through the Makkarika, a cannibal tribe, to about 
two hundred miles west of Gondokoro. Both he and 
many of Ibrahim's party had been frequent witnesses to 



Chap. VIII.] MAKKABIKA CANNIBALS. 187 

acts of cannibalism, during their residence among the 
Makkarikas. They described these cannibals as remarkably 
good people, but possessing a peculiar taste for dogs and 
human flesh. They accompanied the trading party in their 
razzias, and invariably ate the bodies of the slain. The 
traders complained that they were bad associates, as they 
insisted upon killing and eating the children which the 
party wished to secure as slaves: their custom was to 
catch a child by its ankles, and to dash its head against 
the ground ; thus killed, they opened the abdomen, ex- 
tracted the stomach and intestines, and tying the two 
ankles to the neck they carried the body by slinging it 
over the shoulder, and thus returned to camp, where they 
divided it by quartering, and boiled it in a large pot. 
Another man in my own service had been a witness to a 
horrible act of cannibalism at Gondokoro. 

The traders had arrived with their ivory from the West, 
together with a great number of slaves ; the porters who 
carried the ivory being Makkarikas. One of the slave 
girls attempted to escape, and her proprietor immediately 
fired at her with his musket, and she fell wounded ; the 
ball had struck her in the side. The girl was remarkably 
fat, and from the wound, a large lump of yellow fat 
exuded. No sooner had she fallen, than the Makkarikas 
rushed upon her in a crowd, and seizing the fat, they tore 
it from the wound in handfuls, the girl being still alive, 
while the crowd were quarrelling for the disgusting prize. 
Others killed her with a lance, and at once divided her by 
cutting off the head, and splitting the body with their 
lances, used as knives, cutting longitudinally from between 
the legs along the spine to the neck. 

Many slave women and their children who witnessed 
this scene, rushed panic-stricken from the spot and took 
refuge in the trees. The Makkarikas seeing them in 
flight, were excited to give chase, and pulling the chil- 
dren from their refuge among the branches, they killed 
several, and in a short time a great feast was prepared 
for the whole party. My man, Mahommed, who was 
an eye-witness, declared that he could not eat his dinner 



188 QUARRELS WITH THE LATOOKAS. [Chap. VIII. 

for three days, so great was his disgust at this horrible 
feast. 

Although my camp was entirely separate from that of 
Ibrahim, I was dreadfully pestered by his people, who, 
knowing that I was well supplied with many articles of 
which they were in need, came begging to my tent from 
morning till evening daily. To refuse was to insult them; 
and as my chance of success in the exploration un- 
fortunately depended upon my not offending the traders, I 
was obliged to be coldly civil, and nothing was refused 
them. Hardly a day passed without broken guns being 
brought to me for repair ; and having earned an unenviable 
celebrity as a gunsmith, added to my possession of the 
requisite tools, I really had no rest, and I was kept almost 
constantly at work. 

One day Ibrahim was seized with a dangerous fever, and 
was supposed to be dying. Again I was in request : and 
seeing that he was in a state of partial collapse, attended 
with the distressing symptoms of want of action of the 
heart, so frequently fatal at this stage of the disease, I 
restored him by a very powerful stimulant, and thereby 
gained renown as a physician, which, although useful, was 
extremely annoying, as my tent was daily thronged with 
patients, all of whom expected miraculous cures for the 
most incurable diseases. 

In this manner I gained a certain influence over the 
people, but I was constantly subjected to excessive annoy- 
ances and disgust, occasioned by the conduct of their party 
towards the Latookas. The latter were extremely unwise, 
being very independent and ready to take offence on the 
slightest pretext, and the Turks, being now 140 strong, had 
no fear, and there appeared every probability of hostilities. 
I was engaged in erecting huts, and in securing my camp ; 
and although I offered high payment, I could not prevail 
on the natives to work regularly. They invariably 
stipulated that they were to receive their beads before they 
commenced work, in which case they, with few exceptions, 
absconded with their advanced payment. 

One day a native behaved in a similar manner to the 



Chap. VIII.] PARLEY WITH LATOOKA CHIEFS. 189 

Turks; he was, accordingly, caught, and uamercifully 
beaten. Half an hour after, the nogara beat, and was 
answered by distant drums from the adjacent villages. In 
about an hour, several thousand armed men, with shields, 
were collected within half a mile of the Turks' camp, to 
avenge the insult that had been offered to one of their 
tribe. However, the Turks' drum beat, and their whole 
force drew up to their flag under arms outside their zareeba, 
and offered a determined front. I extract the following 
entry from my journal. "These Turks are delightful 
neighbours ; they will create a row, and I shall be dragged 
into it in self-defence, as the natives will distinguish no 
difference in a scrimmage, although they draw favourable 
comparisons between me and the Turks in times of peace. 
Not a native came to work at the huts to-day ; I therefore 
sent for the two chiefs, Commoro and Moy, and had a long 
talk with them. They said that * no Latooka should be 
beaten by common fellows like the traders' men ; that I 
was a great chief, and that if I chose to beat them they 
would be content.' I gave them advice to keep quiet, and 
not to quarrel about trifles, as the Turks would assuredly 
destroy the country should a fight commence. 

" At the same time, I told them that they did not treat 
me properly : they came to me- in times of difficulty as a 
mediator, but although they knew I had always paid well 
for everything, they gave me no supplies, and I was obliged 
to shoot game for my daily food, although they possessed 
such enormous herds of cattle; neither could I procure 
materials or workpeople to complete my camp. The parley 
terminated with an understanding that they were to supply 
me with everything, and that they would put a stop to the 
intended fight. In the evening a goat was brought, and a 
number of men appeared with grass and wood for sale for 
hut-building." 

The following day, some of my people went to a neigh- 
bouring village to pui chase corn, but the natives insulted 
them, refusing to sell, saying that " we should die of 
hunger, as no one should either give or sell us anything." 
This conduct must induce hostilities, as the Turks are too 



190 HELPLESSNESS IN -AN ADVANCE. [Chap. VIII. 

powerful to be insulted. I am rather anxious lest some 
expedition may entail the departure of the entire Turkish 
party, when the Latookas may seize the opportunity of 
attacking my innocents. The latter are now so thoroughly 
broken to my severe laws, "thou shalt not take slaves; 
neither cattle ; nor fire a shot unless in self-defence," that 
they are resigned to the ignoble lot of minding the 
donkeys, and guarding the camp. 

Latooka was in a very disturbed state, and the excite- 
ment of the people was increasing daily. Two of my men 
went into the town to buy grass, and, without any pro- 
vocation, they were surrounded by the natives, and the gun 
of one man was wrested from him; the other, after a 
tussle, in which he lost his ramrod, beat a hasty retreat. 
A number of the soldiers immediately collected, and I sent 
to *the chief to demand the restoration of the gun, which 
was returned that evening. I could literally procure 
nothing without the greatest annoyance and trouble. 

My men, by their mutiny and desertion at Gondokoro, 
had reduced a well-armed expedition to a mere remnant, 
dependent upon the company of a band of robbers for 
the means of advancing through the country. Instead of 
travelling as I had arranged, at the head of forty-five well- 
armed men, I had a miserable fifteen cowardly curs, who 
were employed in driving the baggage animals ; thus they 
would be helpless in the event of an attack upon the road. 
I accordingly proposed to make a depot at Latooka, and to 
travel with only twelve donkeys and the lightest baggage. 
It was a continual trial of temper and wounded pride. To 
give up the expedition was easy, but to succeed at that 
period appeared hopeless; and success could only be 
accomplished by the greatest patience, perseverance, and 
most careful tact and management of all parties. It was 
most galling to be a hanger-on to this company of traders, 
who tolerated me for the sake of presents, but who hated 
me in their hearts. 

One afternoon some natives suddenly arrived from a 
country named Obbo with presents from their chief for the 
Turks, and also for me. Ibrahim received several tusks, 



Chap. VIII.] HOPE TO THE SOUTH. 191 

while I received an iron hoe (molote), as the news had 
already extended to that country, "that a white man was 
in Latooka, who wanted neither slaves nor ivory." The 
natives reported, that a quantity of ivory existed in their 
country, and Ibrahim determined to take a few men and 
pay it a visit, as the people were said to be extremely 
friendly. I requested the leader to point out the exact 
position of Obbo, which I found to be S.W. That was 
precisely the direction that I had wished to take ; thus an 
unexpected opportunity presented itself, and I determined 
to start without delay. On the 2d of May, 1863, at 9 a.m. 
we left Latooka, delighted to change the scene of inaction. 
I left five men in charge of my camp and effects, begging 
Gommoro the chief to look after their safety, and telling 
him that I had no fear of trusting all to his cam Savages 
will seldom deceive you if thus placed upon their honour, 
this happy fact being one of the bright rays in then dark- 
ness, and an instance of the anomalous character of the 
African. 

The route lay across the park-like A T alley of Latooka for 
about eighteen miles, by which time we reached the base 
of the mountain chain. There was no other path than the 
native track, which led over a low range of granite rocks, 
forming a ridge about four hundred feet high. It was with 
the greatest difficulty that the loaded donkeys could be 
hoisted over the numerous blocks of granite that formed 
an irregular flight of steps, like the ascent of the great 
pyramid; however, by pulling at their ears, and pushing 
behind, all except one succeeded in gaining the summit ; 
he was abandoned on the pass. 

We were now in the heart of the mountains, and a 
beautiful valley, well wooded and about six miles in 
width, lay before us, forming the basin of the Kanieti river 
that we had formerly crossed at Wakkala, between Ellyria 
and Latooka. 

Fording this stream in a rapid current, we crossed with 
difficulty, the donkeys wetting all their loads. This was 
of no great consequence, as a violent storm suddenly over- 
took us and soaked everyone as thoroughly as the donkeys' 



192 ENTER THE MOUNTAINS. [Chap. VIII. 

packs. A few wild plantains afforded leaves which we 
endeavoured to use as screens, hut the rain-drops were far 
too heavy for such feeble protection. Within a mile of 
the river we determined to bivouac, as the evening had 
arrived, and in such weather an advance was out of the 
question. The tent having been left at Latooka, there was 
no help for it, and we were obliged to rest, contented with 
our position upon about an acre of clean rock plateau, 
upon which we lighted an enormous fire, and crouched 
shivering round the blaze. No grass was cut for the 
animals, as the men had been too busy in collecting fire- 
wood sufficient to last throughout the night. Some fowls 
that we had brought from Latooka had been ' drowned by 
the rain ; thus my Mahommedan followers refused to eat 
them, as their throats had not been cut. Not being so 
scrupulous, and wonderfully hungry in the cold rain, Mrs. 
Baker and I converted them into a stew, and then took 
refuge, wet and miserable, under our untanned ox-hides 
until the following morning. Although an ox-hide is not 
waterproof, it will keep out a considerable amount of wet ; 
but when thoroughly saturated, it is about as comfortable 
as any other wet leather, with the additional charm of an 
exceedingly disagreeable raw smell, very attractive to 
hyenas. The night being dark, several men thus lost their 
leather bags that they had left upon the rock. 

At 6 A.M., having passed a most uncomfortable night, we 
started, and after a march of about two miles I was made 
extremely anxious for the donkeys, by being assured that 
it was necessary to ascend a most precipitous granite hill, 
at least seven hundred feet high, that rose exactly before 
us, and upon the very summit of which was perched a 
large village. There was no help by means of porters ; we 
led our horses with difficulty up the steep face of the rock 
— fortunately they had never been shod, thus their firm 
hoofs obtained a hold where an iron shoe would have 
slipped ; and after extreme difficulty and a most tedious 
struggle, we found our party all assembled on the flat 
summit. From this elevated point we had a superb view 
of the surrounding country, and I took the compass bear- 



Chap. VIII.] BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 193 

ing of the Latooka mountain Gebel Lafeet, N. 45° E. The 
natives of the village that we had now reached had no- 
thing to sell but a few beans, therefore without further 
delay we commenced the descent upon the opposite side, 
and at 2.40 p.m. we reached the base, the horses and 
donkeys having scrambled over the large blocks of stone 
with the greatest labour. At the foot of the hill the 
country was park-like and well wooded, although there 
was no very large timber. Here the grass was two feet 
high and growing rapidly, while at Latooka all was 
barren. Halted at 5.20 p.m. on the banks of a small run- 
ning stream, a tributary to the Kanleti. The night being 
fine we slept well; and the next morning at 6 a.m. we 
commenced the most lovely march that I have ever made 
in Africa. Winding through the very bosom of the 
mountains, well covered with forest until the bare granite 
peaks towered above all vegetation to the height of about 
5,000 feet, we continued through narrow valleys bordered 
by abrupt spurs of the mountains from 1,500 to 2,000 
feet high. On the peak of each was a village ; evidently 
these impregnable positions were chosen for security. At 
length the great ascent was to be made, and for two hours 
we toiled up a steep zigzag pass. The air was most 
invigorating ; beautiful wild flowers, some of which were 
highly scented, ornamented the route, and innumerable 
wild grape-vines hung in festoons from tree to tree. We 
were now in an elevated country on the range of moun- 
tains dividing the lower lands of Latooka from the high 
lands of Obbo. We arrived at the summit of the pass 
about 2,500 feet above the Latooka valley. In addition to 
the wild flowers were numerous fruits, all good ; especially 
a variety of custard apple, and a full-flavoured yellow 
plum. The grapes were in most promising bunches, but 
unripe. The scenery was very fine ; to the east and south- 
east, masses of high mountains, while to the west and 
south were vast tracts of park-like country of intense 
green. In this elevated region the season was much 
farther advanced than in Latooka ; — this was the moun- 
tain range upon which I had formerly observed that the 





194 



NATIVES OF OB BO. 



[Chap. VIII. 



storms had concentrated ; here the rainy season had been 
in full play for months, while in Latooka everything was 
parched. The grass on the west side of the pass was full 
six feet high. Although the ascent had occupied about 
two hours, the descent on the west side was a mere trifle, 
and was effected in about fifteen minutes — we were on an 
elevated plateau that formed the watershed between the 
east and west. 

After a march of about twelve miles from the top of the 
pass, we arrived at the chief village of Obbo. The rain 
fell in torrents, and, soaked to the skin, we crawled into a 
dirty hut. This village was forty miles S.W. of Tarran- 
golle, my head-quarters in Latooka. 




HEAD-DRESS OF OBBO (1) AND SHOGGO (2). 

The natives of Obbo are entirely different to the 
Latookas, both in language and appearance. They are not 
quite naked, except when going to war, on which occasion 
they are painted in stripes of red and yellow ; but their 
usual covering is the skin of an antelope or goat, slung 
like a mantle across the shoulders. Their faces are well 
formed, with peculiarly fine-shaped noses. The head- 
dress of the Obbo is remarkably neat, the woolly hair 
being matted and worked with thread into a flat form like 
a beaver's tail, and bound with a fine edge of raw hide to 



Cuaf. VIII.]' BUTTER NUTS AND FRUITS. 195 

'keep it in shape. This, like the head-dress of Latooka, 
requires many years to complete. 

From Obbo to the S.E. all is mountainous, the highest 
points of the chain rising to an elevation of four or five 
thousand feet above the general level of the country ; to 
the south, although there are no actual mountains, but 
merely a few isolated hills, the country distinctly rises. 
The entire drainage is to the west and north-west, in 
which direction there is a very perceptible inclination. 
The vegetation of Obbo, and the whole of the west side of 
the mountain range, is different from that upon the east 
side ; the soil is exceedingly rich, producing an abundance 
of Guinea grass, with which the plains are covered. This 
country produces nine varieties of yams, many of which 
grow wild in the forests. There is one most peculiar 
species, called by the natives " Collolollo," that I had not 
met with in other countries. This variety produces 
several tubers at the root, and also upon the stalk ; it does 
not spread upon the ground, like most of the vines that 
characterise the yams, but it climbs upon trees or upon 
any object that may tempt its tendrils. From every bud 
upon the stalk of this vine springs a bulb, somewhat 
kidney-shaped ; this increases until, when ripe, it attains 
the average size of a potato. 

So prolific is this plant, that one vine will produce 
about 150 yams : they are covered with a fine skin of a 
greenish brown, and are in flavour nearly equal to a 
potato, but rather waxy. 

There are many good wild fruits, including one very 
similar to a walnut in its green shell; the flesh of this has 
a remarkably fine flavour, and the nut within exactly re- 
sembles a horse-chestnut in size and fine mahogany colour. 
This nut is roasted, and, when ground and boiled, a species 
of fat or butter is skimmed from the surface of the water : 
this is much prized by the natives, and is used for rubbing 
their bodies, being considered as the best of all fats for the 
skin ; it is also eaten. 

Among the best of the wild fruits is one resembling 
raisins; this grows in clusters upon a large tree. Also 

o2 



196 POTTERY AND UTENSILS. [Chap. VIII. 

a bright yellow fruit, as large as a Muscat grape, and 
several varieties of plums. None of these are produced 
in Latooka. Ground-nuts are also in abundance in the 
forests ; these are not like the well-known African ground- 
nut of the west coast, but are contained in an excessively 
hard shell A fine quality of flax grows wild, but the 
twine generally used by the natives is made from the fibre 
of a species of aloe. Tobacco grows to an extraordinary 
size, and is prepared similarly to that of the Ellyria tribe. 
When ripe, the leaves are pounded in a mortar and 
reduced to a pulp ; the mass is then placed in a conical 
mould of wood, and pressed. It remains in this until dry, 
when it presents the shape of a loaf of sugar, and is per- 
fectly hard. The tobacco of the Ellyria tribe is shaped 
into cheeses, and frequently adulterated with cowdung. I 
had never smoked until my arrival in Obbo, but having 
suffered much from fever, and the country being ex- 
cessively damp, I commenced with Obbo pipes and 
tobacco. 

Every tribe has a distinct pattern of pipe ; those of the 
Bari have wide trumpet-shaped mouths ; the Latooka are 
long and narrow ; and the Obbo smaller and the neatest. 
All their pottery is badly burned, and excessively fragile if 
wet. . The water-jars are well formed, although the potter's 
wheel is quite unknown, and the circular form is obtained 
entirely by the hand. Throughout the tribes of the White 
Nile, the articles of pottery are limited to the tobacco-pipe 
and the water-jar : all other utensils are formed either of 
wood, or of gourd shells. 

By observation, I determined the latitude of my camp at 
Obbo to be 4° 02' K, 32° 31/ long. E., and the general 
elevation of the country 3,674 feet above the sea, the tem- 
perature about 76° Fahr. The altitude of Latooka was 
2,236 feet above the sea level: thus we were, at Obbo, 
upon an elevated plateau, 1,438 feet above the general 
level of the country on the east of the mountain range. 
The climate would be healthy were the country sufficiently 
populated to war successfully against nature; but the 
ramfall continuing during ten months of the year, from 



Chap. VIII.] KATCHIBA, CHIEF OF OBBO. 197 

February to the end of November, and the soil being ex- 
tremely fertile, the increase of vegetation is too rapid, and 
the scanty^population are hemmed in and overpowered by 
superabundant herbage. This mass of foliage, and grasses 
of ten feet in height interwoven with creeping plants and 
wild grape-vines, is perfectly impenetrable to man, and 
forms a vast jungle, inhabited by elephants, rhinoceros, 
and buffaloes, whose ponderous strength alone can over- 
come it. There are few antelopes, as those animals dis- 
like the grass jungles, in which they have no protection 
against the lion or the leopard, as such beasts of prey can 
approach them unseen. In the month of January the 
grass is sufficiently dry to burn, but even at that period 
there is a quantity of fresh green grass growing between 
the withered stems ; thus the firing of the prairies does 
not absolutely clear the country, but merely consumes the 
dry matter, and leaves a ruin of charred herbage, rendered 
so tough by the burning, that it is quite impossible to ride 
without cutting the skin from the horse's shins and 
shoulders. Altogether, it is a most uninteresting country, 
as there is no possibility of traversing it except by the 
narrow footpaths made by the natives. 

The chief of Obbo came to meet us with several of his 
head men. He was an extraordinary-looking man, about 
fifty-eight or sixty years of age ; but, far from possessing 
the dignity usually belonging to a grey head, he acted the 
buffoon for our amusement, and might have been a clown 
in a pantomime. 

The heavy storm having cleared, the nogaras beat, and 
our entertaining friend determined upon a grand dance; 
pipes and flutes were soon heard gathering from all 
quarters, horns brayed, and numbers of men and women 
began to collect in crowds, while old Katchiba, the chief, 
in a state of great excitement, gave orders for the enter- 
tainment. 

About a hundred men formed a circle ; each man held 
in his left hand a small cup-shaped drum, formed of 
hollowed wood, one end only being perforated, and this 
was covered with the skin of the elephant's ear, tightly 



]98 



OBBO ENTERTAINMENT. 



[Chap. VIII. 



stretched. In the centre of the circle was the chief dancer, 
who wore, suspended from his shoulders, an immense 
drum, also covered with the elephant's ear. The dance 
commenced by all singing remarkably well a wild but 
agreeable tune in chorus, the big drum directing the time, 
and the whole of the little drums striking at certain periods 




WOMEN OF OBBO. 



with such admirable precision, that the effect was that of a 
single instrument. The dancing was most vigorous, and 
far superior to anything that I had seen among either 
Arabs or savages, the figures varying continually, and 
ending with a " grand galop " in double circles, at a 
tremendous pace, the inner ring revolving in a contrary 



Chap. VIIL] 



LANGUAGES OF TRIBES. 



199* 



direction to the outer; the effect of this was excellent. 
Although the men of Obbo wear a skin slung across their 
shoulders and loins, the women are almost naked, and, 
instead of wearing the leather apron and tail of the 
Latookas, they are contented with a slight fringe of leather 
shreds, about four inches long by two broad, suspended 
from a belt. The unmarried girls are entirely naked ; or, 
if they are sufficiently rich in finery, they wear three or 
four strings of small white beads, about three inches in 
length, as a covering. The old ladies are antiquated Eves, 
whose dress consists of a string round the waist, in which 
is stuck a bunch of green leaves, the stalk uppermost. I 
have seen a few of the young girls that were prudes 
indulge in such garments ; but they did not appear to be 
fashionable, and were adopted faute de mieux. One great 
advantage was possessed by this costume, — it was always 
clean and fresh, and the nearest bush (if not thorny) pro- 
vided a clean petticoat. When in the society of these very 
simple and in demeanour always modest Eves, I could not 
help reflecting upon the Mosaical description of our first 
parents, " and they sewed fig-leaves together." 

Some of the Obbo women were very pretty. The caste 
of feature was entirely different to that of the Latookas, 
and a striking peculiarity was displayed in the finely- 
arched noses of many of the natives, which strongly 
reminded one of the Somauli tribes. It was impossible 
to conjecture their origin, as they had neither traditions 
nor ideas of their past history. 

The language is that of the Madi. There are three dis- 
tinct languages — the Bari, the Latooka, and the Madi, the 
latter country extending south of Obbo. A few of the 
words, most commonly in use, will exemplify them : — 



Water. 
Fire. 
The Sun. 
A Cow. 
A Goat. 
Milk. 
A Fowl. 



Obbo. 

Fee. 

Mite. 

T'sean. 

Deeang. 

Deean. 

T'sarck. 

Gw^no 



Latooka. 


Bari. 


Cari. 


Feeum. 


Nyeme. 


Keemang. 


Narlong. 


Karlong. 


Nyeten. 


Kittan. 


Nyene. 


Eddeen. 


No! 1 * 


Le. 


Nukome. 


Chokorb. 



200 KATCHIBA' S DIPLOMACY. [Chap. VIII. 

The Obbo natives were a great and agreeable change 
after the Latookas, as they never asked for presents. 
Althongh the old chief, Katchiba, behaved more like a 
clown than a king, he was much respected by his people. 
He holds his authority over his subjects as general rain- 
maker and sorcerer. Should a subject displease him, or 
refuse him a gift, he curses his goats and fowls, or 
threatens to wither his crops, and the fear of these inflic- 
tions reduces the discontented. There are no specific 
taxes, but he occasionally makes a call upon the country 
for a certain number of goats and supplies. These are 
generally given, as Katchiba is a knowing old diplomatist, 
and he times his demands with great judgment. Thus, 
should there be a lack of rain, or too much, at the season 
for sowing the crops, he takes the opportunity of calling 
his subjects together and explaining to them how much 
he regrets that their conduct has compelled him to afflict 
them with unfavourable weather, but that it is their own 
fault. If they are so greedy and so stingy that they will 
not supply him properly, how can they expect him to 
think of their interests? He must have goats and corn, 
" No goats, no rain ; that's our contract, my friends," says 
Katchiba. " Do as you like. I can wait ; I hope you 
can." Should his people complain of too much rain, he 
threatens to pour storms and lightning upon them for 
ever, unless they bring him so many hundred baskets of 
corn, &c. &c. Thus he holds his sway. 

No man would think of starting upon a journey without 
the blessing of the old chief; and a peculiar "hocus pocus" 
is ' considered as necessary from the magic hands of 
Katchiba that shall charm the traveller, and preserve him 
from all danger of wild animals upon the road. In case of 
sickness he is called in, not as M.D. in our acceptation, 
but as " doctor of magic," and he charms both the hut and 
the patient against death, with the fluctuating results that 
must attend professionals even in sorcery. His subjects 
have the most thorough confidence in his power; and so 
great is his reputation that distant tribes frequently con- 
sult him, and beg his assistance as a magician. In this 



Chap. VIIL] KATCHIBA "ALWAYS AT HOME." 20 J 

manner does old Katchiba hold his sway over his savage, 
but credulous people; and so long has he imposed upon 
the public that I believe he has at length imposed upon 
himself, and that he really believes he has the power ol 
sorcery, notwithstanding repeated failures. In order to 
propitiate him, his people frequently present him with the 
prettiest of their daughters; and so constantly is he re- 
ceiving additions to his domestic circle that he has been 
obliged to extend his establishment to prevent domestic 
fracas among the ladies. He has accordingly hit upon the 
practical expedient of keeping a certain number of wives 
in each of his villages : thus, when he makes a journey 
through his territory, he is always at home. This multi- 
plicity of wives has been so successful that Katchiba has 
one hundred and sixteen children living — another proof of 
sorcery in the eyes of his people. One of his wives had 
no children, and she came to me to apply for medicine to 
correct some evil influence that had lowered her in her 
husband's estimation. The poor woman was in great 
distress, and complained that Katchiba was very cruel to 
her because she had been unable to make an addition to 
his family, but that she was sure I possessed some charm 
that would raise her to the standard of his other wives. I 
could not get rid of her until I gave her the first pill that 
came to hand from my medicine-chest, and with this she 
went away contented. 

Katchiba was so completely established in his country, 
not only as a magician, but as " pere de famille," that 
every one of his villages was governed by one of his sons ; 
thus the entire government was a family affair. The sons 
of course believed in their father's power of sorcery, and 
their influence as head men of their villages increased the 
prestige of the parent. Although without an idea of a 
Supreme Being, the whole country bowed down to sorcery. 
It is a curious distinction between faith and credulity ; — 
these savages, utterly devoid of belief in a Deity, and 
without a vestige of superstition, believed most devotedly 
that the general affairs of life and the control of the 
elements were in the hands of their old chief, and there- 



202 



THE GREAT MAGICIAN. 



[Chap. VIII 



fore they served him — not with a feeling of love, neither 
with a trace of religion, but with that material instinct 
that always influences the savage ; they propitiated him 
for the sake of what they could obtain. It is this almost 
unconquerable feeling, ever present in the savage mind, 
that renders his conversion difficult; he will believe in 




KATCHJBA'S ELDEST SON, 



nothing, unless he can obtain some specific benefit from 
the object of his belief. 

Savages can be ruled by two powers — " force," and 
" humbug ; " accordingly, these are the instruments made 
use of by those in authority : where the " force " is want- 
ing, " humbug " is the weapon as a " pis aller." Katchiba 
having no physical force, adopted cunning, and the black 
art controlled the savage minds of his subjects. Strange 



Chap. VIIL] RECONNAISSANCE TO THE SOUTH. 203 

does it appear, that these uncivilized inhabitants of Central 
Africa should, although devoid of religion, believe im- 
plicitly in sorcery ; giving a power to man superhuman, 
although acknowledging nothing more than human. 

Practical and useful magic is all that is esteemed by 
the savage, the higher branches would be unappreciated ; 
and spirit-rapping and mediums are reserved for the 
civilized (?) of England, who would convert the black 
savages of Africa. 

Notwithstanding his magic, Katchiba was not a bad 
man : he was remarkably civil, and very proud at my 
having paid him a visit. He gave me much information 
regarding the country, but assured me that I should not 
be able to travel south for many months, as it would be 
quite impossible to cross the Asua river during the rainy 
season ; he therefore proposed that I should form a camp 
at Obbo, and reside there until the rains should cease. It 
was now May, thus I was invited to postpone my advance 
south until December. 

I determined to make a reconnaissance south towards 
the dreaded Asua, or, as the Obbo people pronounced 
it, the Achua river, and to return to my fixed camp. 
Accordingly I arranged to leave Mrs. Baker at Obbo 
with a guard of eight men, while I should proceed 
south without baggage, excepting a change of clothes 
and a cooking pot. Katchiba promised to take the 
greatest care of her, and to supply her with all she might 
require ; offering to become personally responsible for her 
safety; he agreed to place a spell upon the door of our 
hut, that nothing evil should enter it during my absence. 
It was a snug little dwelling, about nine feet in diameter, 
and perfectly round ; the floor well cemented with cow- 
dung and clay, and the walls about four feet six inches 
in height, formed of mud and sticks, likewise polished off 
with cow-dung. The door had enlarged, and it was now 
a very imposing entrance of about four feet high, and 
a great contrast to the surrounding hut or dog-kennel 
with two feet height of doorway. 

On the 7th of May I started with three men, and 



204 J2f UPSET. [Chap. VIII. 

taking a course south, I rode through a most lovely 
country, within, five miles of the base, and parallel with 
the chain of the Madi mountains. There was abundance 
of beautiful flowers, especially of orchidaceous plants ; the 
country was exceedingly park-like and well wooded, but 
generally overgrown with grass then about six feet high. 
After riding for about fourteen miles, one of the guides 
ran back, and reported elephants to be on the road a little 
in advance. One of my mounted men offered to accom- 
pany me should I wish to hunt them. I had no faith 
in my man, but I rode forward, and shortly observed 
a herd of ten bull elephants standing together about 
sixty yards from the path. The grass was high, but I 
rode through it to within about forty yards before I was 
observed ; they immediately dashed away, and I followed 
for about a mile at a trot, the ground being so full of 
holes and covered with fallen trees concealed in the high 
grass, that, I did not like to close until I should arrive 
in a more favourable spot. At length I shot at full 
gallop past an immense fellow, w 7 ith tusks about five feet 
projecting from his jaws, and reining up, I fired with a 
Eeilly No. 10 at the shoulder. He charged straight into 
me at the sound of the shot. My horse, Filfil, was utterly 
unfit for a hunter, as he went perfectly mad at the report 
of a gun fired from his back, and at the moment of the 
discharge he reared perpendicularly; the weight, and the 
recoil of the rifle, added to the sudden rearing of the horse, 
unseated me, and I fell, rifle in hand, backwards over 
his hind-quarters at the moment the elephant rushed in 
full charge upon the horse. Away went " Filfil ,". leaving 
me upon the ground in a most inglorious position; and, 
fortunately, the grass being high, the elephant lost sight 
of me and followed the horse instead of giving me his 
attention. 

My horse was lost; my man had never even accom- 
panied me, having lagged behind at the very commence- 
ment of the hunt. I had lost my rifle in the high grass, 
as I had been forced to make a short run from the spot 
before I knew that the elephant had followed the horse ; 



Chap. VII1.J LOSS OF FILFIL. 205 

thus I was nearly an hour before I found it, and also my 
azimuth compass that had fallen from my belt pouch. 
After much shouting and whistling, my mounted man 
arrived, and making him dismount, I rode my little horse 
Mouse, and returned to the path. My horse Filfil was 
lost. As a rule, hunting during the march should be 
avoided, and I had now paid dearly for the indiscretion. 

I reached the Atabbi river about eighteen miles from 
Obbo. This is a fine perennial stream flowing from the 
Madi mountains towards the west, forming an affluent 
of the Asua river. There was a good ford, with a hard 
gravel and rocky bottom, over which the horse partly 
waded and occasionally swam. There were fresh tracks 
of immense herds of elephants with which the country 
abounded, and I heard them trumpeting in the distance. 
Ascending rising ground in perfectly open prairie on the 
opposite side of Atabbi, I saw a dense herd of about 
two hundred elephants — they were about a mile distant, 
and were moving slowly through the high grass. Just 
as I was riding along the path watching the immense 
herd, a Tetel (hartebeest) sprang from the grass in which 
he had been concealed, and fortunately he galloped across 
a small open space, where the high grass had been 
destroyed by the elephants. A quick shot from the little 
Fletcher 24* rifle doubled him up; but, recovering him- 
self almost immediately, he was just disappearing when 
a shot from the left-hand barrel broke his back, to the 
intense delight of my people. We accordingly bivouacked 
for the night, and the fires were soon blazing upon a dry 
plateau of granite rock about seventy feet square that 
I had chosen for a resting-place. In the saucer-shaped 
hollows of the rock was good clear water from the rain 
of the preceding day; thus we had all the luxuries that 
could be desired — fire, food, and water. I seldom used 
a bedstead unless in camp ; thus my couch was quickly 
and simply made upon the hard rock, softened by the 
addition of an armful of green boughs, upon which I laid 
an untanned ox-hide, and spread my Scotch plaid. My 
cap formed my pillow, and my handy little Fletcher rifle 



206 CEREMONY OF WELCOME AT FARAJOKE. [Chap. VIII. 

lay by my side beneath the plaid, together with my hunt- 
ing knife; these faithful friends were never out of reach 
either by night or day. 

The cap was a solid piece of architecture, as may be 
supposed from its strength to resist the weight of the head 
when used as a pillow. It was made by an Arab woman 
in Khartoum, according to my own plan ; — the substance 
was about half an inch thick of dome palm leaves very 
neatly twisted and sewn together. Having a flat top, and 
a peak both before and behind, the whole affair was 
covered with tanned leather, while a curtain of the same 
material protected the back of the neck from the sun. 
A strong chin strap secured the cap upon the head, and 
the " tout ensemble " formed a very effective roof, com- 
pletely sun-proof. Many people might have objected 
to the weight, but I found it no disadvantage, and the 
cap being tolerably waterproof, I packed my cartouche 
pouch and belt within it when inverted at night to form 
a pillow ; — this was an exceedingly practical arrangement, 
as in case of an alarm I rose from my couch armed, 
capped and belted, at a moment's notice. 

On the following morning I started at daybreak, and 
after a march of about thirteen miles through the same 
park -like and uninhabited country as that of the pre- 
ceding day, I reached the country of Farajoke, and 
arrived at the foot of a rocky hill, upon the summit of 
which was a large village. I was met by the chief and 
several of his people leading a goat, which was presented 
to me, and killed immediately as an offering, close to the 
feet of my horse. The chief carried a fowl, holding it 
by the legs, with its head downwards ; he approached 
my horse, and stroked his fore-feet with the fowl, and then 
made a circle around him by dragging it upon the ground ; 
my feet were then stroked with the fowl in the same 
manner as those of the horse, and I was requested to 
stoop, so as to enable him to wave the bird around my 
head ; this completed, it was also waved round my horse's 
head, who showed his appreciation of the ceremony by 
rearing and lashing out behind, to the great discomfiture 



Chap. VIII.] ELEVATED COUNTRY AT FARAJOKE. 20/ 

of the natives. The fowl did not appear to have enjoyed 
itself during the operation; but a knife put an end to 
its troubles, as, the ceremony of welcome being completed, 
the bird was sacrificed and handed to my headman. I 
was now conducted to the village. It was defended by 
a high bamboo fence, and was miserably dirty, forming 
a great contrast to the clean dwellings of the Bari and 
Latooka tribes. The hill upon which the village was 
built was about eighty feet above the general level of the 
country, and afforded a fine view of the surrounding 
landscape. On the east was the chain of Madi moun- 
tains, the base well wooded, while to the south all was 
fine open pasturage of sweet herbage, about a foot high, 
a totally different grass to the rank vegetation we had 
passed through. The country was undulating, and every 
rise was crowned by a village. Although the name of 
the district is Farajoke, it is comprised in the extensive 
country of Sooli, together with the Shoggo and Madi 
tribes, all towns being under the command of petty chiefs. 

The general elevation of the country was 3,966 feet 
above the sea-level, 292 feet higher than Obbo. 

The chief of Farajoke, observing me engaged in taking 
bearings with the^compass, was anxious to know my object, 
which being explained, he volunteered all information 
respecting the country, and assured me that it would be 
quite impossible to cross the Asua during the rainy season, 
as it was a violent torrent, rushing over a rocky bed with 
such impetuosity, that no one would venture to swim it. 
There was nothing to be done at this season, and however 
trying to the patience, there was no alternative. 

Farajoke was within three days' hard marching of 
Faloro, the station of Debono, that had always been my 
projected head-quarters ; thus I was well advanced upon 
my intended route, and had the season been propitious, I 
could have proceeded with my baggage animals without 
difficulty. 

The loss of my horse " Filfil " was a severe blow in this 
wild region, where beasts of burthen were unknown, and I 
had slight hopes of Ids recovery, as lions were plentiful in 



298 GALLANTRY OF KATCHIBA. [Chap. VIII. 

the country between Obbo and Farajoke; however, I 
offered a reward of beads and bracelets, and a number 
of natives were sent by the chief to scour the jungles. 

There was little use in remaining at Farajoke, therefore 
I returned to Obbo with my men and donkeys, accom- 
plishing the whole distance (thirty miles) in one day. 

I was very anxious about Mrs. Baker, who had been the 
representative of the expedition at Obbo during my absence. 

Upon my approach through the forest, my well-known 
whistle was immediately answered by the appearance of 
the boy Saat, who, without any greeting, immediately 
rushed to the hut to give the intelligence that " Master 
was arrived." 

I found my wife looking remarkably well, and regularly 
installed " at home." Several fat sheep were tied by the 
legs to pegs in front of the hut ; a number of fowls were 
pecking around the entrance, and my wife awaited me on 
the threshold with a large pumpkin shell containing about 
a gallon of native beer. "DuLce domum," although but 
a mud hut, the loving welcome made it happier than a 
palace; and that draught of beer, or fermented mud, or 
whatever trash it might be compared with in England, 
how delicious it seemed after a journey of thirty miles in 
the broiling sun ! and the fat sheep and the fowls all looked 
so luxurious. Alas ! — for destiny — my arrival cut short 
the existence of one being; what was joy to some was 
death to a sheep, and in a few moments the fattest was 
slain in honour of master's return, and my men were busily 
employed in preparing it for a general feast. 

Numbers of people gathered round me : foremost among 
them was the old chief Katchiba, whose self-satisfied coun- 
tenance exhibited an extreme purity of conscience in 
having adhered to his promise to act as guardian during 
my absence. Mrs. Baker gave him an excellent character ; 
he had taken the greatest care of her, and had supplied all 
the luxuries that had so much excited my appetite on the 
first coup d'ceil of my home. He had been so mindful of 
his responsibility, that he had placed some of his own 
sens as sentries over the hut both by day and night. 



Chap. VIII] KATCHIBA DETERMINES TO RIDE. 



209 



I accordingly made him a present of many beads and 
bracelets, and a few odds and ends, that threw him into 
ecstacies : he had weak eyes, and the most valued present 
was a pair of sun-goggles, which I fitted on his head, to 
his intense delight, and exhibited in a looking-glass — this 
being likewise added to his gifts. I noticed that he was 




KATCTUBA AND HIS HEBE OX A JOURNEY. 



very stiff in the back, and he told me that he had had a 
bad fall during my absence. My wife explained the affair. 
He had come to her to declare his intention of procuring 
fowls for her from some distant village ; but, said he, " My 
people are not very good, and perhaps they will say that 
they have none; but if you will lend me a horse, I will 



210 FIRST ATTEMPTS AT HORSEMANSHIP. [Chap. VIII. 

ride there, and the effect will impose upon them so much, 
that they will not dare to refuse me." Now, Katchiba 
was not a good walker, and his usual way of travelling 
was upon the back of a very strong subject, precisely as 
children are wont to ride " pic-a-back." He generally had 
two or three spare men, who alternately acted as guides 
and ponies, while one of his wives invariably accompanied 
him, bearing a large jar of beer, with which it was said 
that the old chief refreshed himself so copiously during 
the journey, that it sometimes became necessary for two 
men to carry him instead of one. This may have been 
merely a scandalous report in Obbo ; however, it appeared 
that Katchiba was ready for a start, as usual accompanied 
by a Hebe with a jar of beer. Confident in his powers as 
a rider across country on a man, he considered that he 
could easily ride a horse. It was in vain that my wife had 
protested, and had prophesied a broken neck should he 
attempt to bestride the hitherto unknown animal : to ride 
he was determined. 

Accordingly my horse T^tel was brought, and Katchiba 
was assisted upon his back. The horse recognising an 
awkward hand, did not move a step. "Now then,'' said 
Katchiba, " go on ! " but T^tel, not understanding the Obbo 
language, was perfectly ignorant of his rider's wishes. 
" Why won't he go ? " inquired Katchiba. " Touch him 
with your stick," cried one of my men ; and acting upon 
the suggestion, the old sorcerer gave him a tremendous 
whack with his staff. This was immediately responded to 
by Tetel, who, quite unused to such eccentricities, gave a 
vigorous kick, the effect of which was to convert the 
sorcerer into a spread eagle, flying over Ms head, and 
landing very heavily upon the ground, amidst a roar of 
laughter from my men, in which I am afraid Mrs. Baker 
was rude enough to join. The crest-fallen Katchiba was 
assisted upon his legs, and feeling rather stunned, he 
surveyed the horse with great astonishment; but his 
natural instincts soon prompted him to call for the jar of 
beer, and after a long draught from the mighty cup, he 
regained his courage, and expressed an opinion that the 



Chap. VIII.] CEREMONY AT FARTING WITH KATCEIBA. 2 i 1 

horse was "too high, as it was a long way to tumble 
down ; " he therefore requested one of the " little horses ; " 
these were the donkeys. Accordingly he was mounted on 
a donkey, and held on by two men, one on either side. 
Thus he started most satisfactorily and exceedingly proud. 

On his return the following day, he said that the 
villagers had given him the fowls immediately, as he had 
told them that he had thirty Turks staying with him on a 
visit, and that they would burn and plunder the country 
unless they were immediately supplied. He considered 
this trifling deviation from fact as a great stroke of 
diplomacy in procuring the fowls. 

Six days after the loss of my horse, I was delighted to 
see him brought back by the natives safe and well They 
had hunted through an immense tract of country, and had 
found hrm grazing. He was naturally a most vicious 
horse, and the natives were afraid to touch him ; they had 
accordingly driven him before them until they gained the 
path, which he then gladly followed. The saddle was in 
its place, but my sword was gone. 

The rains were terrific; the mornings were invariably 
fine, but the clouds gathered upon the mountains soon 
after noon and ended daily in a perfect deluge. Not 
being able to proceed south, I determined to return to my 
head-quarters at Latooka, and to wait for the dry season. 
I had made the reconnaissance to Earajoke, in latitude 
3° 32', and I saw my way clear for the future, provided 
my animals should remain in good condition. Accord- 
ingly, on the 21st of May, we started for Latooka in com- 
pany with Ibrahim and his men, who were thoroughly 
sick of the Obbo climate. 

Before parting, a ceremony had to be performed by 
Katchiba. His brother was to be our guide, and he was 
to receive power to control the elements as deputy- 
magician during the journey, lest we should be wetted 
by the storms, and the torrents should be so swollen as to 
be impassable. 

With great solemnity Katchiba broke a branch from a 
tree, upon the leaves of which he spat in several places. 

p2 



212 DISCOVERY OF SUPPOSED YAMS. [Chap. VIII. 

This branch, thus blessed with holy water, was laid upon 
the ground, and a fowl was dragged around it by the chief ; 
and our horses were then operated on precisely in the 
same manner as had been enacted at Farajoke. This 
ceremony completed, he handed the branch to his brother 
(our guide), who received it with much gravity, in addition 
to a magic whistle of antelope's horn that he suspended 
from his neck. All the natives wore whistles similar in 
appearance, being simply small horns in which they blew, 
the sound of which was considered either to attract or to 
drive away rain, at the option of the whistler. No whistle 
was supposed to be effective unless it had been blessed by 
the great magician Katchiba. The ceremony being over, 
all commenced whistling with all their might ; and taking 
leave of Katchiba, with an assurance that we should again 
return, we started amidst a din of " toot too too-ing " upon 
our journey. Having an immense supply of ammunition 
at Latooka, I left about 200 lbs. of shot and ball with 
Katchiba; therefore my donkeys had but little to carry, 
and we travelled easily. 

That night we bivouacked at the foot of the east-side of 
the pass at about half-past five. Ibrahimawa, the Bornu 
man whom I have already described as the amateur 
botanist, had become my great ally in searching for all 
that was curious and interesting. Proud of his knowledge 
of wild plants, no sooner was the march ended than he 
commenced a search in the jungles for something esculent. 
"We were in a deep gorge on a steep knoll bounded by a 
ravine about sixty feet of perpendicular depth, at the 
bottom of which flowed a torrent. This was an excellent 
spot for a camp, as no guards were necessary upon the 
side thus protected. Bordering the ravine were a number 
of fine trees covered with a thorny stem creeper, with 
leaves much resembling those of a species of yam. These 
were at once pronounced by Ibrahimawa to be a perfect 
god-send, and after a few minutes' grubbing he produced a 
basketful of fine-looking yams. In an instant this display 
of food attracted a crowd of hungry people, including 
those of Ibrahim and my own men, who, not being 



Chap. VIII.] BEWARE OF BOTANISTS! 213 

botanists, had left the search for food to Ibrahimawa, but 
who determined to share the tempting results. A rush 
was made at his basket, which was emptied on the instant ; 
and T am sorry to confess that the black angel Saat was 
one of the first to seize three or four of the largest 
yams, which he most unceremoniously put in a pot and 
deliberately cooked as though he had been the botanical 
discoverer. How often the original discoverer suffers, 
while others benefit from his labours ! Ibrahimawa, the 
scientific botanist, was left without a yam, after all his 
labour of grubbing up a basketful. Pots were boiling in 
all directions, and a feast in store for the hungry men who 
had marched twenty miles without eating since the morn- 
ing. The yams were cooked ; but I did not bike the look 
of them, and seeing that the multitude were ready, I 
determined to reserve a few for our own eating should 
they be generally pronounced good. The men ate them 
voraciously. Hardly ten minutes had elapsed from the 
commencement of the feast when first one and then 
another disappeared, and from a distance I heard a 
smothered but unmistakeable sound, that reminded me 
of the lurching effect of a channel steamer upon a crowd 
of passengers. Presently the boy Saat showed symptoms 
of distress, and vanished from our presence ; and all those 
that had dined off Ibrahimawa's botanical specimens were 
suffering from a most powerful " vomi-purgatif." The 
angels that watch over scientific botanists had preserved 
Ibrahimawa from all evil. He had discovered the yams, 
and the men had stolen them from him ; they enjoyed the 
fruits, while he gained an experience invaluable at their 
expense. I was quite contented to have waited until others 
had tried them before I made the experiment. Many of' 
the yam tribe are poisonous; there is one variety much 
liked at Obbo, but which is deadly in its effects should it 
be eaten without a certain preparation. It is first scraped, 
and then soaked in a running stream for a fortnight. It 
is then cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun until 
quite crisp ; by this means it is rendered harmless. The 
dried slioes are stored for use; and they are generally 



214 THE MAHARIF ANTELOPE. [Chap. VIII. 

potinded in a mortar into flour, and used as a kind of 
porridge. 

The sickness of the people continued for about an hour, 
during which time all kinds of invectives were hurled 
against Ibrahimawa, and his botany was termed a gigantic 
humbug. From that day he was very mild in his botanical 
conversation. 

On the following morning we crossed the last range of 
rocky hills, and descended to the Latooka valley. Up to 
this point, we had seen no game ; but we had now arrived 
in the game country, and shortly after our descent from 
the rocks we saw a herd of about twenty Tetel (harte- 
beest). Unfortunately, just as I dismounted for the pur- 
pose of stalking them, the red flags of the Turks attracted 
the attention of a large party of baboons, who were sitting 
on the rocks, and they commenced their hoarse cry of 
alarm, and immediately disturbed the T^teL One of the 
men, in revenge, fired a long shot at a great male, who was 
sitting alone upon a high rock, and by chance the ball 
struck him in the head. He was an immense specimen of 
the Cynocephalus, about as large as a mastiff, but with a 
long brown mane like that of the lion. This mane is much 
prized by the natives as an ornament. He was imme- 
diately skinned, and the hide was -cut into long strips 
about tthree inches broad: the portion of mane adhering 
had the appearance of a fringe; each strip was worn as 
a scarf; thus one skin will produce about eight or ten 
ornaments. 

I sent my men to camp, and, accompanied by Eicharn, 
mounted on my horse " Mouse," I rode through the park- 
like ground in quest of game. I saw varieties of ante- 
lopes, including the rare and beautiful maharif; but all 
were so wild, and the ground so open, that I could not get 
a shot. This was the more annoying, as the maharif was 
an antelope that I believed to be a new species. It had 
often disappointed me ; for although I had frequently seen 
them on the south-west frontier of Abyssinia, I had never 
been able to procure one, ©wing to their extreme shyness, 
and to the fact of their inhabiting open plains, where 



Chap. VIII.] THE GIRAFFE. 215 

stalking was impossible. I had frequently examined them 
with a telescope, and had thus formed an intimate ac- 
quaintance with their peculiarities. The maharif is very 
similar to the roan antelope of South Africa, but is mouse 
colour, with black and white stripes upon the face. The 
horns are exactly those of the roan antelope, very massive 
and corrugated, bending backwards to the shoulders. The 
withers are extremely high, which give a peculiarly heavy 
appearance to the shoulders, much heightened by a large 
and stiff black mane like that of a hog-maned horse. I 
have a pair of horns in my possession that I obtained 
through the assistance of a lion, who killed the maharif 
while drinking near my tent ; unfortunately, the skin was 
torn to pieces, and the horns and skull were all that 
remained. 

Failing, as usual, in my endeavours to obtain a shot, I 
made a considerable circuit, and shortly observed the tall 
heads of giraffes towering over the low mimosas. There is 
no animal in nature so picturesque in his native haunts as 
the giraffe. His food consists of the leaves of trees, some 
qualities forming special attractions, especially the varieties 
of the mimosa, which, being low, permit an extensive view 
to his telescopic eyes. He has a great objection to high 
forests. The immense height of the giraffe gives him a 
peculiar advantage, as he can command an extraordinary 
range of vision, and thereby be warned against the ap- 
proach of his two great enemies, man and the lion. No 
animal is more difficult to stalk than the giraffe, and the 
most certain method of hunting is that pursued by the 
Hamran Arabs, on the frontiers of Abyssinia, who ride 
him down and hamstring him with the broadsword at full 
gallop. A good horse is required, as, although the gait of 
a giraffe appears excessively awkward from the fact of his 
moving the fore and hind legs of one side simultaneously, 
he attains a great pace, owing to the length of his stride, 
and his bounding trot is more than a match for any but a 
superior horse. 

The hoof is as beautifully proportioned as that of the 
smallest gazelle, and his lengthy legs and short back give 



216 HUNTING GIRAFFES. [Chap. VIII. 

him every advantage for speed and endurance. There is a 
rule to be observed in hunting the giraffe on horseback : 
the instant he starts, he must be pressed — it is the speed 
that tells upon him, and the spurs must be at work at the 
very commencement of the hunt, and the horse pressed 
along at his best pace ; it must be a race at top speed from 
the start, but, should the giraffe be allowed the slightest 
advantage for the first five minutes, the race will be against 
the horse. 

I was riding " Filfil," my best horse for speed, but utterly 
useless for the gun. I had a common regulation-sword 
hanging on my saddle in lieu of the long Arab broadsword 
that I had lost at Obbo, and starting at full gallop at the 
same instant as the giraffes, away we went over the beau- 
tiful park. Unfortunately Eicharn was a bad rider, and I, 
being encumbered with a rifle, had no power to use the 
sword. I accordingly trusted to ride them down and to 
get a shot, but I felt that the unsteadiness of my horse 
would render it very uncertain. The wind whistled in my 
ears as we flew along over the open plain. The grass was 
not more than a foot high, and the ground hard ; — the 
giraffes about four hundred yards distant steaming along, 
and raising a cloud of dust from the dry earth, as on this 
side of the mountains there had been no rain. Filfil was 
a contradiction ; he loved a hunt and had no fear of wild 
animals, but he went mad at the sound of a gun. Seeing 
the magnificent herd of about fifteen giraffes before him, 
the horse entered into the excitement and needed no spur 
— down a slight hollow, flying over the dry buffalo holes, 
now over a dry watercourse and up the incline on the 
other side — then again on the Jevel, and the dust in my 
eyes from the cloud raised by the giraffes showed that we 
were gaining in the race ; misericordia /—low jungle lay 
before us — the giraffes gained it, and spurring forward 
through a perfect cloud of dust now within a hundred 
yards of the game we shot through the thorny bushes, In 
another minute or two I was close up, and a splendid bull 
giraffe was crashing before me like a locomotive obelisk 
through the mimosas, bending the elastic boughs before 



I'JIilllffi 




Chap. VIII.] BENIGHTED. 217 

him in his irresistible rush, which sprang back with a 
force that would have upset both horse and rider had I not 
carefully kept my distance. The jungle seemed alive with 
the crowd of orange red, the herd was now on every side, 
as I pressed the great bull before me. Oh for an open 
plain ! I was helpless to attack, and it required the 
greatest attention to keep up the pace through the thick 
mimosas without dashing against their stems and branches. 
The jungle became thicker, and although I was in the 
middle of the herd and within ten yards of several giraffes, 
I could do nothing. A mass of thick and tangled thorns 
now received them, and closed over the hardly-contested 
race — I was beaten. 

Never mind, it was a good hunt — first-rate — but where 
was my camp ? It was nearly dark, and I could just 
distinguish the pass in the distance, by which we had 
descended the mountain; thus I knew the direction but 
I had ridden about three miles, and it would be dark 
before I could return. However, I followed the heel 
tracks of the herd of giraffes. Eicharn was nowhere. 
Although I had lost the race, and was disappointed, I 
now consoled myself that it was all for the best ; had I 
killed a giraffe at that hour and distance from camp, what 
good would it have been ? I was quite alone ; thus who 
could have found it during the night ? and before morning 
it would have been devoured by lions and hyenas ; — 
inoffensive and beautiful creatures, what a sin it appeared 
to destroy them uselessly ! With these consoling and 
practical reflections I continued my way, until a branch 
of hooked thorn fixing in my nose disturbed the train of 
ideas and persuaded me that it was very dark, and that 
I had lost my way, as I could no longer distinguish either 
the tracks of the giraffes or the position of the mountains. 
Accordingly I fired my rifle as a signal, and soon after I 
heard a distant report in reply, and the blaze of a fire shot 
up suddenly in the distance on the side of the mountain. 
With the help of this beacon I reached the spot where 
our people were bivouacked ; they had lighted the beacon 
on a rock about fifty feet above the level, as although some 



218 BREAD-BAKING ON THE MARCH. [Chap. VIII. 

twenty or thirty fires were blazing, they had been obscured 
by the intervening jungle. I found both my wife and my 
men in an argumentative state as to the propriety of my 
remaining alone so late in the jungle ; however, I also 
found, dinner ready ; the angareps (stretcher bedsteads) 
arranged by a most comfortable blazing fire, and a glance 
at the star-lit heavens assured me of a fine night— what 
more can man wish for? — wife, welcome, food, fire, and 
fine weather? 

The bivouac in the wilderness has many charms ; there 
is a complete independence— the sentries are posted, the 
animals picketed and fed, and the fires arranged in a com- 
plete circle around the entire party — men, animals, and 
luggage all within the fiery ring ; the sentries alone being 
on the outside. There is a species of ironwood that is very 
inflammable, and being oily, it burns like a torch ; this 
grew in great quantities, and the numerous fires fed with 
this vigorous fuel enlivened the bivouac with a continual 
blaze. My men were busy, baking their bread. On such 
occasions an oven is dispensed with. A prodigious fire is 
made while the dough is being prepared ; this, when well 
moistened, is formed into a cake about two feet in diameter, 
but not thicker than two inches. The fire being in a fit 
state of glowing ash, a large hole is scraped in the centre, 
in which the flat cake is laid, and the red-hot embers are 
raked over it; thus buried it will bake in about twenty 
minutes, but the dough must be exceedingly moist or it 
will burn to a cinder. 

On the following day we arrived at Latooka, where I 
found everything in good order at the depot, and the 
European vegetables that I had sown were all above 
ground. Commoro and a number of people came to 
meet us. 

There had been but little rain at Latooka since we left, 
although it had been raining heavily at Obbo daily, and 
there was no difference in the dry sandy plain that sur- 
rounded the town, neither was there any pasturage for 
the animals except at a great distance. 

The day after my arival, Filfil was taken ill and died in 



Chap. VIII.] WANI, THE INTERPRETER. 219 

a few hours. Tetel had been out of condition ever since 
the day of his failure during the elephant hunt, and he 
now refused his food. Sickness rapidly spread through 
my animals ; five donkeys died within a few days, and the 
remainder looked poor. Two of my camels died suddenly, 
having eaten the poison-bush. Within a few days of this 
disaster my good old hunter and companion of all my 

: former sports in the Base - country, Tetel, died. These 

: terrible blows to my expedition were most satisfactory to 
the Latookas, who ate the donkeys and other animals the 

: moment they died. It was a race between the natives 
and the vultures as to who should be first to profit by 

. my losses. 

Not only were the animals sick, but .my wife was laid 
up with a violent attack of gastric fever, and I was also 
suffering from daily attacks of ague. The small-pox broke 
out among the Turks. Several people died ; and, to make 
matters worse, they insisted upon inoculating themselves 
and all their slaves; thus the whole camp was reeking 
with this horrible disease. 

Fortunately my camp was separate and to windward. 
I strictly forbade my men to inoculate themselves, and 
no case of the disease occurred among my people, but 
it spread throughout the country. Small-pox is a scourge 
among the tribes of Central Africa, and it occasionally 
sweeps through the country and decimates the popu- 
lation. 

Among the natives of Obbo, who had accompanied us 
to Latooka, was a man named Wani, who had formerly 
travelled far to the south, and had offered to conduct 
Ibrahim to a country rich in ivory that had never been 
visited by a trader : this man had accordingly been engaged 
as guide and interpreter. In an examination of Wani I 
discovered that the cowrie-shells were brought from a 
place tailed " Magungo." This name I had previously 
heard mentioned by the natives, but I could obtain no clue 
to its position. It was most important that I should dis- 
cover the exact route by which the cowries arrived from 
the south, as it would be my guide to that direction. The 



220 EXAMINATION OF WANI. [Chap. VIII. 

information that I received from Wani at Latooka was 
excessively vague, and upon most slender data I founded 
my conclusions so carefully that my subsequent discoveries 
have rendered most interesting the first scent of the posi- 
tion which I eventually followed with success. I accord- 
ingly extract, verbatim, from my journal the note written 
by me at Latooka on the 26th of May, 1863, when I first 
received the clue to the Albert N'yanza : — 

" I have had a long examination of Wani, the guide and 
interpreter, respecting the country of Magungo. Loggo, 
the Bari interpreter, has always described Magungo as 
being on a large river, and I have concluded that it must 
be the Asua ; but, upon cross-examination, I find he has 
used the word 'Bahr' (in Arabic signifying river or sea) 
instead of ' Birke* ' (lake). This important error being dis- 
overed gives a new feature to the geography of this part. 
According to his description, Magungo is situated on a 
lake so large that no one knows its limits. Its breadth is 
such that, if you journey two days east and the same dis- 
tance west, there is no land visible on either quarter, while 
to the south its direction is utterly unknown. Large vessels 
arrive at Magungo from distant and unknown parts, bring- 
ing cowrie- shells and beads in exchange for ivory. Upon 
these vessels white men have been seen. All the cowrie- 
shells* used in Latooka and the neighbouring countries are 
supplied by these vessels, but none have arrived for the 
last two years. 

" His description of distance places Magungo on about 
the 2° N. lat. The lake can be no other than the 
' N'yanza,' which, if the position of Magungo be correct, 
extends much farther north than Speke had supposed. 
The ' white men ' must be Arab traders who bring cowries 
from Zanzibar. I shall take the first opportunity to push 
for Magungo. I imagine that country belongs to Kam- 
rasi's brother, as Wani says the king has a brother who is 
king of a powerful country on the west bank of the Nile, 
but that they are ever at war with each other. 

" I examined another native who had been to Magungo 
to purchase Simbi (the cowrie-shell) ; he says that a white 



Chap. IX.] THE TURKS ATTACK KAY ALA. 221 

man formerly arrived there annually, and brought a donkey 
with him in a boat ; that he disembarked his donkey and 
rode about the country, dealing with the natives, and bar- 
tering cowries and brass-coil bracelets. This man had no 
firearms, but wore a sword. The king of Magungo was 
called ' Cherrybambi' " 

This information was the first clue to the facts that I 
subsequently established, and the account of the white 
men (Arabs) arriving at Magungo was confirmed by the 
people of that country twelve months after I obtained this 
vague information at Latooka. 

Arabs, being simply brown, are called white men by the 
blacks of these countries. I was called a very white man 
as a distinction, but I have frequently been obliged to take 
off my shirt to exhibit the difference of colour between 
myself and my men, as my face was brown. 



CHAPTEE IX. 

ON the 30th May, about an hour before daybreak, I was 
awoke by a rattle of musketry, which continued some- 
time in irregular volleys, and subsided into a well-sustained 
and steady fire in single shots. On leaving my hut, I found 
the camp of Koorshid's people almost empty, while my 
own men were climbing on the roofs of their huts to 
obtain a view towards the west. Nothing was in sight, 
although the firing still continued at a distance of about a 
mile, apparently on the other side of a belt of trees. I 
now heard that Koorshid's people had started at between 
three and four o'clock that morning, by Commoro's request, 
lo attack a neighbouring town that had been somewhat 
rebellious. The firing continued for about two hours, when 
it suddenly ceased, and I shortly saw with a telescope the 
Turks' red ensign emerge from the forest, and we heard 
the roll of their drum, mingled with the lowing of oxen 



222 THE "PLEASANT ROBBER'' KILLED. [Chap. IX. 

and the bleating of sheep. Upon nearer approach, I 
remarked a considerable body of men, and a large herd of 
cattle and sheep driven by a number of Latookas, while a 
knot of Turks carried something heavy in their arms. 
They soon arrived, with about 2,000 head of cattle and 
sheep ; but they had lost one of their men, killed in the 
light, and his body they carried home for interment. It 
happened to be about the best man of the party ; really a 
very civil fellow, and altogether rather a pleasant robber. 
At Commoro's instigation, the Turks had attacked the 
town of Kayala ; but the Latookas had fought so well, that 
the Turks found it impossible to capture the town, which 
was, as usual, protected by iron-wood palisades, upon which 
their bullets harmlessly flattened. Not only the Latooka 
men had fought well, but their women broke up their 
grinding-stones and defended the entrance by pelting their 
assailants with the fragments ; several of the Turks were 
wounded by the stones thrown with such force by these 
brawny Amazons that some of the gun-barrels were in- 
dented. Many of these brave women had been shot by the 
dastardly Turks, and one was in the act of being carried off 
by the " pleasant robber," when a native, running to her 
rescue, drove his spear through his chest and killed him on 
the spot. Unfortunately for the Latookas, some of their 
cattle had left the town to pasture just before the attack 
took place ; these were captured by the Turks, but not one 
hostile foot had been able to penetrate their town. 

On the following day the party were busily engaged in 
dividing the spoil, one third belonging to the men as a 
bonus, w T hile the remainder were the property of the 
traders' establishment, or "Meri" (government), as they 
term the proprietor. This portion was to be sent to Obbo 
as a place of security and good pasturage, and the men 
were to engage in other razzias in Latooka, and to collect a 
large number of cattle to be driven south to exchange for 
ivory. Koorshid's camp was a scene of continual uproar, 
the men quarrelling over the division of the spoil. 

Journal — June 2d. — The Turks are now busy buying 
and selling, each man disposing of his share of the stolen 



Chap. IX.] THE LIFE OF WOMEN SPARED IN WAIL 223 

cattle according to his wants : one exchanges a cow to the 
natives for corn and meat ; another slaughters an ox, and 
retails small portions for merissa (beer), fowls, &3., the 
natives flocking to the camp like vultures scenting flesh ; 
others reserve their cattle for the purpose of purchasing 
the daughters of the natives for slaves under the name of 
wives, whom they will eventually sell in Khartoum for 
from twenty to thirty dollars each. My men look on in 
dismay at the happiness of their neighbours : like 

" A Peri weeping at the gate 
Of Eden, stood disconsolate," 

so may they be seen regarding the adjoining paradise, 
where meat is in profusion, sweetened by being stolen ; 
but, alas ! their cruel master does not permit them these 
innocent enjoyments. 

Everything may be obtained for cattle as payment in 
this country. The natives are now hard at work making 
zareebas (kraals) for the cattle stolen from their own tribe 
and immediate neighbours, for the sake of two or three 
bullocks as remuneration to be divided among more than a 
hundred men. They are not deserving of sympathy ; they 
are worse than vultures, being devoid of harmony even in 
the same tribe. The chiefs have no real control ; and a 
small district, containing four or live towns, club together 
and pillage the neighbouring province. It is not sur- 
prising that the robber traders of the Nile turn this spirit 
of discord to their own advantage, and league themselves 
with one chief, to rob another, whom they eventually 
plunder in his turn. The natives say that sixty-five men 
and women were killed in the attack upon Kayala. All 
the Latookas consider it a great disgrace that the Turks 
fired upon women. Among all tribes, from Gondokoro to 
Obbo, a woman is respected, even in time of war. Thus, 
they are employed as spies, and become exceedingly 
dangerous; nevertheless, there is a general understanding 
that no woman shall be killed. The origin of this humane 
distinction arises, I imagine, from their scarcity. Where 
polygamy is in force, women should be too dear to kill ; 



224 SCARCITY OF SALT AMONG TEH LATOOKAS. [Chap. IX. 

the price of a girl being, from five to ten cows, her death is 
equal to the actual loss of that number. 

Fortunately for my party, who were not cattle lifters, 
there was the usual abundance of game, and I could 
always supply myself and people with delicious wild 
ducks and geese. We never were tired of this light food, 
as we varied their preparation. Sometimes I was able to 
procure a goat, on which occasion a grand dish was made, 
the paunch being arranged as a Scotch "haggis" of wild 
fowls' livers and flesh minced, with the usual additions. 
My garden was flourishing ; we had onions, beans, melons, 
yams, lettuce, and radishes, which had quickly responded 
to several invigorating showers ; the temperature was 85° 
in the shade during the hottest hours of the day, and 
72° at night. 

Salt is not procurable in Latooka ; the natives seldom, 
use it, as it is excessively difficult to make it in any 
quantity from the only two sources that will produce it ; 
the best is made from goat's dung; this is reduced to 
ashes, and saturated ; the water is then strained off, and 
evaporated by boiling. Another quality is made of a 
peculiar grass, with a thick fleshy stem, something like a 
sugar-cane; the ashes of this produce salt, but by no 
means pure. The chief of Latooka would eat a handful 
of sail greedily that I gave him from my large supply, 
and I co aid purchase supplies with this article better 
than with beads. 

On the 4th of June, Ibrahim and eighty-five men started 
for Obbo in charge of about 400 cows and 1,000 goats. 

Shortly after their departure, a violent thunder-storm, 
attended with a deluge of rain, swept over the country, 
and flooded the Latooka river and the various pools that 
formed my game-preserves. 

I looked forward to good duck-shooting on the morrow, 
as a heavy storm was certain to be followed by large 
arrivals. 

On the morning of the 5th, I was out at an early hour, 
and in a very short time I killed eight ducks and geese. 
There was a certain pool surrounded by a small marsh 



Chap. IX.] THE TURKS MURDER A NATIVE. 225 

within half a mile of my camp, that formed the greatest 
attraction to the wild fowl. There were two hegleek trees 
in this marsh ; and it was merely necessary to stand 
beneath the shelter of either to insure good sport, as the 
dncks continually arrived at the pool. 

I was just entering into the sport with all my heart 
when I heard a shot fired in the Turks' camp, followed by 
loud yells, and I observed a crowd of Latookas rushing 
from the camp towards their town. In a few moments 
later, 1 heard the Turks' drum, and I saw people running 
to and fro, and the Latookas assembling from the neigh- 
bourhood with lances and shields, as though preparing for 
a fray. I had only two men with me, and being nearly 
half a mile from camp, I thought it advisable to hasten 
towards the spot, lest some contretemps should take place 
before my arrival. Accordingly I hurried over the open 
plain, and shortly reached my camp. I found my wife 
arranging the men at their posts, fearing a disturbance. 
They had seen me hastening towards them, and I now 
went to the Turks' camp, that was close by, and inquired 
the cause of alarm. 

Never was I more disgusted. Already the vultures 
were swooping in circles above some object outside the 
camp. It appeared that a native of Kayala (the town 
lately attacked by the Turks) had visited Tarrangolle* to 
inquire after a missing cow. The chiefs, Moy and Com- 
moro, brought him to the Turks' camp, merely to prove 
that he had no evil intention. No sooner was it announced 
that he was a native of Kayala than the Turks declared 
he was a spy, and condemned him to be shot. The two 
chiefs, Moy and Oommoro, feeling themselves compromised 
by having brought the man into such danger unwittingly, 
threw themselves before him, and declared that no harm 
should befall him, as he belonged to them. Tearing them 
away by the combined force of many men, the prisoner 
was immediately bound, and led forth by his bloodthirsty 
murderers to death. "Shoot the spy!" was hardly pro- 
nounced, when a villain stepped forward, and placing the 
muzzle of his musket close to his left breast, he fired. 

Q 



226 COUNTRY DISTURBED. [Chap. IX. 

The man dropped dead, thus murdered in cold blood. The 
natives rushed in crowds from the spot, naturally supposing 
that a general massacre would follow so unprovoked an 
outrage. The body was dragged by the heels a few paces 
outside the camp, and the vultures were its sextons within 
a few minutes of the death. 

It was with difficulty that I could restrain my temper 
under such revolting circumstances. I felt that at an 
unlooked-for moment I might be compromised in some 
serious outbreak of "the natives, caused by the brutal 
acts of the traders. Already it was declared unsafe to 
venture out shooting without ten or twelve armed men 
as escort. 

A mixture of cowardice and brutality, the traders' party 
became exceedingly timid, as a report was current that the 
inhabitants of Kayala intended to ally themselves to those 
of Tarrangolle, and to attack the Turks in their camp. I 
accordingly strengthened my position by building a tower 
of palisades, that entirely commanded all approaches to 
my zareeba. 

Latooka was already spoiled by the Turks : it was now 
difficult to procure flour and milk for beads, as the traders' 
people, since the attack on Kayala, had commenced the 
system of purchasing all supplies with either goats or 
heei, which having been stolen, was their cheapest medium 
of exchange. Although rich in beads and copper, I was 
actually poor, as I could not obtain supplies. Accordingly 
I allowanced my men two pounds of beads monthly, and 
they went to distant villages and purchased their own 
provisions independently of me. 

On the 11th June, at 7.20 a.m., there was a curious 
phenomenon; the sky was perfectly clear, but we were 
startled by a noise like the sudden explosion of a mine, or 
the roar of heavy cannon, almost immediately repeated. 
It appeared to have originated among the mountains, about 
sixteen miles distant due south of my camp. I could only 
account for this occurrence by the supposition that an 
immense mass of the granite rock might have detached 
itself from a high mountain, and, in falling to the valley. 



Chap. IX.] TWO THIEVES. 227 

it might have bounded from a projection on the mountain's 
side, and thus have caused a double report. 

June 13. — I shot ten ducks and geese before breakfast, 
including one of the large black and white geese with the 
crimson head and neck. On my return to camp I weighed 
this — exactly eleven pounds; this goose has on either 
pinion-joint a sharp, horny spur, an inch in length. 

During my morning stroll I met hundreds of natives 
running excitedly with shields and spears towards Adda's 
village : they were going to steal the cattle from a village 
about four miles distant ; thus there will be a fight in 
the course of the day. The Latooka stream is now full, 
and has the appearance of a permanent river carrying a 
considerable body of water to the Sobat. 

I met with two thieves while duck-shooting this morn- 
ing — the one an eagle, and the other a native. The 
beautiful white-throated fish-eagle may generally be seen 
perched upon a bough overhanging the stream, ready for 
any prey that may offer. This morning I shot two ducks 
right and left as they flew down the course of the river — 
one fell dead in the water, but the other, badly hit, fluttered 
along the surface for some distance, and was immediately 
chased and seized by a fish-eagle which, quite reckless of 
the gun, had been watching the sport from, a high tree, 
and evinced a desire to share the results. My men, not to 
be done out of their breakfast, gave chase, shouting and 
yelling to frighten the eagle, and one of them having a 
gun loaded with buckshot, fired, and the whirr-r of the 
charge induced the eagle to drop the duck, which was 
triumphantly seized by the man. 

The other thief was a native. I fired a long shot 
at a drake; the bird flew a considerable distance and 
towered, falling about a quarter of a mile distant. A 
Latooka was hoeing close to where it fell, and we dis- 
tinctly saw him pick up the bird and run to a bush, in 
which he hid it : upon our arrival he continued his work 
as though nothing had happened, and denied all know- 
ledge of it: he was accordingly led by the ear to the 
bush, where we found the duck carefully secreted. 

Q2 



228 IBRAHIM AWA'S REMINISCENCES OF ENGLAND. [Ch. IX. 

June 14. — The natives lost one man killed in the fight 
yesterday, therefore the night was passed in singing and 
dancing. 

The country is drying up ; although the stream is full 
there is no rain in Latooka, the water in the river being 
the eastern drainage of the Obbo mountains, where it rains 
daily. 

Ibrahimawa, the Bornu man, alias " Sinbad the Sailor," 
the great traveller, amuses and bores me daily with his 
long and wonderful stories of his travels. The style of 
his narratives may be conjectured from the following 
extracts : " There was a country adjoining Bornu, where 
the king was so fat and heavy that he could not walk, 
until the doctors opened his telly and cut the fat out, which 
operation was repeated annually." 

He described another country as a perfect Paradise, 
where no one ever drank anything so inferior as water. 
This country was so wealthy that the poorest man could 
drink merissa (beer). He illustrated the general intoxi- 
cation by saying, that " after 3 p.m. no one was sober 
throughout the country, and from that hour the cows, 
goats, and fowls were all drunk, as they drank the 
merissa left in the jars by their owners, who were all 
asleep." 

He knew all about England, having been a servant 
on a Turkish frigate that was sent to Gravesend. He 
described an evening entertainment most vividly. He 
had been to a ball at an " English Pasha's in Blackwall" 
and had succeeded wonderfully with some charming 
English ladies excessively " decollete," upon whom he 
felt sure he had left a lasting impression, as several had 
fallen in love with him on the spot, supposing him to be 
a Pasha. 

Such were instances of life and recollections of Ibra- 
himawa, the Bornu. 

On June 16, Koorshid's people returned from Obbo. 
Ibrahim and a few men had remained there, and dis- 
trusting the warlike spirit of the Latookas, he now 
recalled the entire establishment from Tarrangoll^, in- 



Chap. IX.] WHITE ANTS. 229 

tending to make a station at the more peaceful country 
of Obbo. An extract from my journal on that day 
explains my feelings : " This is most annoying ; I had 
arranged my camp and garden, &c. for the wet season, 
and I must now leave everything, as it is impossible to 
remain in this country with my small force alone ; the 
natives have become so bad (since the cattle razzia) that 
a considerable armed party is obliged to go to the stream 
for water. It is remarkably pleasant travelling in the 
vicinity of the traders ; — they convert every country into 
a wasp's nest ; — they have neither plan of action nor 
determination, and I, being unfortunately dependent upon 
their movements, am more like a donkey than an explorer, 
that is saddled and ridden away at a moment's notice. 
About sixty natives of Obbo accompanied the men sent 
by Ibrahim to carry the effects ; — I require at least fifty, 
as so many of my transport animals are dead." Nothing 
can exceed the laziness and dogged indolence of my men ; 
I have only four who are worth having, — Eicharn, Hamed, 
Sali, and Taher. 

All the men in either camp were discontented at the 
order to move, as they had made themselves comfortable, 
expecting to remain in Latooka during the wet season. 
The two chiefs, Moy and Commoro, found themselves in 
a dilemma, as they had allied themselves with the Turks 
in the attack upon the neighbouring town, depending upon 
them for future support ; they were now left in the lurch, 
and felt themselves hardly a match for their enemies. 

A few extracts from my journal will close our sojourn 
at Latooka : — 

"June \§th. — The white ants are a curse upon the 
country ; although the hut is swept daily and their 
galleries destroyed, they rebuild everything during the 
night, scaling the supports to the roof and entering the 
thatch. Articles of leather or wood are the first devoured. 
The rapidity with which they repair their galleries is 
wonderful ; all their work is carried on with cement ; 
the earth is contained in their stomachs, and this being 
mixed with some glutinous matter they deposit it as bees 



230 DESTRUCTIFENESS OF BIRDS. [Chap. IX. 

do their wax. Although the earth of this country if 
tempered for house-building will crumble in the rain 
the hills of the white ' ants remain solid and waterproof, 
owing to the glue in the cement. I have seen three 
varieties of white ants — the largest about the size of a 
small wasp : this does not attack dwellings, but subsists 
upon fallen trees. The second variety is not so large ; 
this species seldom enters buildings. The third is the 
greatest pest: this is the smallest, but thick and juicy ; — ■ 
the earth is literally alive with them, nor is there one 
square foot of ground free from them in Latooka. 

" June 19 th. — Had a bad attack of fever yesterday that 
has been hanging about me for some days. Weighed all 
the luggage and packed the stores in loads of fifty pounds 
each for the natives to carry. 

"June 20th. — Busy making new ropes from the bark 
of a mimosa ; all hands at work, as we start the day after 
to-morrow. My loss in animals makes a difference of 
twenty-three porters' loads. I shall take forty natives, 
as the bad roads will necessitate light loads for the 
donkeys. I have now only fourteen donkeys ; these are 
in good condition, and would thrive, were not the birds 
so destructive by pecking sores upon their backs. These 
sores would heal quickly by the application of gunpowder, 
but the birds irritate and enlarge them until the animal 
is rendered useless. I have lost two donkeys simply from 
the attacks of these birds ; — the only remaining camel 
and some of the donkeys I have covered with jackets 
made of tent-cloth. 

" June 21st— Ml. 

" June 22d. — We were awoke last night by a report 
from the sentry that natives were prowling around the 
camp ; — I accordingly posted three additional guards. At 
a little after 2 a.m. a shot was fired, followed by two others 
in quick succession, and a sound as of many feet running 
quickly was heard passing the entrance of the camp. 
I was up in a moment, and my men were quickly under 
arms : the Turks' drum beat, and their camp (that was 
contiguous to mine) was alive with men, but all was dark- 



Chap. IX.] A THIEF SHOT. 231 

ness. I lighted my policeman's lantern, that was always 
kept ready trimmed, and I soon arrived at the spot where 
the shot had been fired. The natives had been en- 
deavouring to steal the cattle from the Turks' kraal, and 
favoured by the darkness they had commenced burrowing 
with the intention of removing the thorn bushes that 
formed the fence. Unfortunately for the thieves, they 
were unaware that there were watchers in the kraal among 
the cattle: it was a pitch dark night, and nothing could 
be distinguished ; but the attention of one of the sentries 
was attracted by the snorting and stamping of the goats, 
that evidently denoted the presence of something un- 
common. He then perceived close to him, on the other 
side the hedge, a dark object crouching, and others stand- 
ing, and he heard the bushes moving as though some one 
was at work to remove them. He immediately fired ; and 
the sound of a rush of men in retreat induced both him 
and the other sentry to repeat the shot. By the light of 
the lantern we now searched the place, and discovered the 
body of a native lying close to the fence just above a 
considerable hole that he had scraped beneath the thorns, 
in order to extract the stems that were buried in the 
ground, and thus by drawing away the bushes he would 
have effected an entrance. He had commenced operations 
exactly opposite the sentry, and the musket being loaded 
with mould-shot, he had received the contents at close 
quarters. Although he had tempted fate and met with 
deserved misfortune, it was most disgusting to witness 
the brutality of the Turks, who, tying ropes to the ankles, 
dragged the body to the entrance of the camp, and wished 
for amusement to drive their bayonets through the chest. 
Although dying, the man was not dead : a shot had 
entered one eye, knocking it out ; several had entered the 
face, chest, and thighs, as he was in a stooping position 
when the gun was fired. I would not allow him to be 
mutilated, and after groaning in agony for some time, he 
died. The traders' people immediately amputated the 
hands at the wrists, to detach the copper bracelets, while 
others cut off his helmet of beads, and the body was 



232 -M7 WIFE ILL WITH FEVER. [Chap. IX. 

very considerately dragged close to the entrance of my 
camp. 

" June 22d. — Finding that the disgusting Turks had 
deposited the dead body almost at my door, I had it 
removed a couple of hundred yards to leeward. The 
various "birds of prey immediately collected — buzzards, 
vultures, crows, and the great Marabou stork. I observed 
a great bare-necked vulture almost succeed in turning the 
body over by pulling at the flesh of the arm at the opposite 
side to that where it stood. I have noticed that birds 
of prey invariably commence their attack upon the eyes, 
inner portions of the thighs, and beneath the arms, before 
they devour the coarser portions. In a few hours a well- 
picked skeleton was all that was left of the Latooka." 

We were to start on the following day. My wife was 
dangerously ill with bilious fever, and was unable to 
stand, and I endeavoured to persuade the traders' party 
to postpone their departure for a few days. They would 
not hear of such a proposal; they had so irritated the 
Latookas that they feared an attack, and their captain, or 
vakeel, Ibrahim, had ordered them immediately to vacate 
the country. This was a most awkward position for me. 
The traders had induced the hostility of the country, and 
I should bear the brunt of it should I remain behind 
alone.» Without their presence I should be unable to 
procure porters, as the natives would not accompany my 
feeble party, especially as I could offer them no other 
payment but beads or copper. The rains had commenced 
within the last few days at Latooka, and on the route 
towards Obbo we should encounter continual storms. We 
were to march by a long and circuitous route to avoid 
the rocky passes that would be dangerous in the present 
spirit of the country, especially as the traders possessed 
large herds that must accompany the party. They allowed 
five days' march for the distance to Obbo by the intended 
route. This was not an alluring programme for the week's 
entertainment, with my wife almost in a dying state ! 
However, I set to work, and fitted an angarep with arched 
hoops from end to end, so as to form a frame like the 



Chap. IX.] GREAT PUFF ADDER. 233 

cap of a wagon. This I covered with two waterproof 
Abyssinian tanned hides securely strapped; and lashing 
two long poles parallel to the sides of the angarep, I 
formed an excellent palanquin. In this she was assisted, 
and we started on 23d June. 

Our joint parties consisted of about three hundred men. 
On arrival at the base of the mountains, instead of cross- 
ing them as before, we skirted the chain to the north-west, 
and then rounding through a natural gap, we ascended 
gradually towards the south. 

On the fifth day we were, at 5 A.M., within twelve miles 
of Obbo, and we bivouacked on a huge mass of granite on 
the side of a hill, forming an inclining plateau of about an 
acre. The natives who accompanied us were immediately 
ordered to clear the grass from the insterstices of the 
rocks, and hardly had they commenced when a slight 
disturbance, among some loose stones that were being 
removed, showed that something was wrong. In an 
instant lances and stones were hurled at some object by the 
crowd, and upon my arrival I saw the most horrid monster 
that I have ever experienced. I immediately pinned 
his head to the ground and severed it at one blow with my 
hunting-knife, damaging the keen edge of my favourite 
weapon upon the hard rock. It was a puff adder of the 
most extraordinary dimensions. I then fetched my mea- 
suring-tape from the game-bag, in which it was always 
at hand. Although the snake was only 5 ft. 4 in. in length, 
it was slightly above 15 inches in girth. The tail was, as 
usual in poisonous snakes, extremely blunt, and the head 
perfectly flat, and about 1\ inches broad, but unfortunately 
during my short absence to fetch the measure the natives 
had crushed it with a rock. They had thus destroyed it as 
a specimen, and had broken three of the teeth, but I 
counted eight, and secured five poison-fangs, the two most 
prominent being nearly an inch in length. The poison- 
fangs of snakes are artfully contrived by some diabolical 
freak of nature as pointed tubes, through which the poison 
is injected into the base of the wound inflicted. The ex- 
treme point of the fang is solid, and is so finely sharpened 



234 VIOLENT STORM. [Chap. IX. 

that beneath a powerful microscope it is perfectly smooth, 
although the point of the finest needle is rough. A short 
distance above the solid point of the fang the surface of 
the tube appears as though cut away, like the first cut of a 
quill in forming a pen : through this aperture the poison 
is injected. 

Hardly had I secured the fangs, when a tremendous 
clap of thunder shook the earth and echoed from rock to 
rock among the high mountains, that rose abruptly on our 
left within a mile. Again the lightning flashed, and, 
almost simultaneously, a deafening peal roared from the 
black cloud above us, just as I was kneeling over the arch- 
enemy to skin him. He looked so Satanic with his flat 
head, and minute cold grey eye, and scaly hide, with the 
lightning flashing and the thunder roaring around him ; I 
felt like St. Dunstan with the devil, and skinned him. 
The natives and also my men were horrified, as they would 
not touch any portion of such a snake with their hands : 
even its skin was supposed by these people to be noxious. 

Down came the rain ; I believe it could not have rained 
harder. Mrs. Baker in the palanquin was fortunately like 
a snail in her shell ; but I had nothing for protection 
except an ox-hide : throwing myself upon my angarep I 
drew it over me. The natives had already lighted pro- 
digious fires, and all crowded around the blaze ; but what 
would have been the Great Fire of London in that storm ? 
In half an hour the fire was out ; such a deluge fell that 
the ravine that was dry when we first bivouacked, was 
now an impassable torrent. My ox-hide had become tripe, 
and my angarep, being covered with a mat, was some 
inches deep in water. Throwing away the mat, the pond 
escaped through the sieve-like network, but left me 
drenched. Throughout the night it poured. We had been 
wet through every day during the journey from Latooka, 
but the nights had been fine; this was superlative 
misery to all At length it ceased — morning dawned ; we 
could not procure fire, as everything was saturated, and we 
started on our march through forest and high reeking grass. 
By this circuitous route from Latooka we avoided all 



Chap. IX.] HOSTILITY CAUSED BT THE TURKS. 235 

difficult passes, as tlie ground on the west side of the chain 
of mountains ascended rapidly but regularly to Obbo. 

On arrival at my former hut I found a great change ; 
the grass was at least ten feet high, and my little camp 
was concealed in the rank vegetation. Old Katchiba came 
to meet us, but brought nothing, as he said the Turks had 
eaten up the country. An extract from my journal, dated 
July 1, explains the misery of our position. 

" This Obbo country is now a land of starvation. The 
natives refuse to supply provision for beads ; nor will they 
barter anything unless in exchange for flesh. This is the 
curse that the Turks have brought upon the country by 
stealing cattle and throwing them away wholesale. We have 
literally nothing to eat except tullaboon, a small bitter grain 
used in lieu of corn by the natives : there is no game ; if it 
existed, shooting would be impossible, as the grass is im- 
penetrable. I hear that the Turks intend to make a razzia 
on the Shoggo country near Farajoke ; thus they will stir 
up a wasp's nest for me wherever I go, and render it im- 
possible for my small party to proceed alone, or even to 
remain in peace. I shall be truly thankful to quit this 
abominable land; in my experience I never saw such 
scoundrels as Africa produces — the natives of the Soudan 
being worse than all. It is impossible to make a servant 
of any of these people ; the apathy, indolence, dishonesty 
combined with dirtiness, are beyond description ; and their 
abhorrence of anything like order increases their natural 
dislike to Europeans. I have not one man even approach- 
ing to a servant; the animals are neglected, therefore they 
die. And were I to die they would rejoice, as they would 
immediately join Koorshid's people in cattle stealing and 
slave hunting ; — charming followers in the time of danger ! 
Such men destroy all pleasure, and render exploration a 
mere toil. No one can imagine the hardships and annoy- 
ances to which we are subject, with the additional disgust 
of being somewhat dependent upon the traders' band of 
robbers. For this miserable situation my vakeel is entirely 
responsible f had my original escort been faithful, I should 
have been entirely independent, and could with my trans- 



236 THE M.D. ATTENDS VS. [Chap. IX. 

port animals have penetrated far south before the com- 
mencement of the rainy season. Altogether I am thoroughly- 
sick of this expedition, hut I shall plod onwards with 
dogged obstinacy; God only knows the end. I shall be 
grateful should the day ever arrive once more to see Old 
England." 

Both my wife and I were excessively ill with bilious 
fever, and neither could assist the other. The old chief, 
Katchiba, hearing that we were dying, came to charm us 
with some magic spell. He found us lying helpless, and 
he immediately procured a small branch of a tree, and 
filling his mouth with water, he squirted it over the leaves 
and about the floor of the hut ; he then waved the branch 
around my wife's head, also around mine, and completed 
the ceremony by sticking it in the thatch above the door- 
way; he told us we should now get better, and perfectly 
satisfied, he took his leave. The hut was swarming with 
rats and white ants, the former racing over our bodies 
during the night, and burrowing through the floor, filling 
our only room with mounds like mole-hills. As fast as we 
stopped the holes, others were made with determined per- 
severance. Having a supply of arsenic, I gave them an 
entertainment, the effect being disagreeable to all parties, 
as the rats died in their holes, and created a horrible 
effluvium, while fresh hosts took the place of the departed. 
Now and then a snake would be seen gliding within the 
thatch, having taken shelter from the pouring rain. 

The small-pox was raging throughout the country, and 
the natives were dying like flies in winter. The country 
was extremely unhealthy, owing to the constant rain and 
the rank herbage, which prevented a free circulation of air, 
and from the extreme damp induced fevers. The tem- 
perature was 65° Fahr. at night, and 72° during the day ; 
dense clouds obscured the sun for many days, and the air 
was reeking with moisture. In the evening it was always 
necessary to keep a blazing fire within the hut, as the floor 
and walls were wet and chilly. 

i The wet herbage disagreed with my baggage animals. 
Innumerable flies appeared, including the Tsetse, and in a 



Chap. IX.] MARAUDING EXPEDITION. 237 

few weeks the donkeys had no hair left, either on their 
ears or legs ; they drooped and died one by one. It was 
in vain that I erected sheds, and lighted fires; nothing 
would protect them from the flies. The moment the fires 
were lit, the animals would rush wildly into the smoke, 
from which nothing would drive them, and in the clouds 
of imaginary protection they would remain all day, refusing 
food. On the 16th of July my last horse, Mouse, died ; 
he had a very long tail, for which I obtained a cow in 
exchange. Nothing was prized so highly as horse's tails, 
the hairs being used for stringing beads, and also for 
making tufts as ornaments, to be suspended from the 
elbows. It was highly fashionable in Obbo for the men to 
wear such tufts, formed of the bushy ends of cow's-tails. 
It was also " the thing " to wear six or eight polished rings 
of iron, fastened so tightly round the throat as to almost 
choke the wearer, somewhat resembling dog-collars. 

On 18th July, the natives held a great consultation, 
and ended with a war-dance ; they were all painted in 
various patterns, with red ochre and white pipe-clay ; their 
heads adorned with very tasteful ornaments of cowrie- 
shells, surmounted by plumes of ostrich-feathers, which 
drooped over the back of the neck. After the dance, the 
old chief addressed them in a long and vehement speech ; 
he was followed by several other speakers, all of whom 
were remarkably fluent, and the resolution of the meeting 
was declared " that the nogaras were to be beaten, and 
men collected to accompany the Turks on a razzia in the 
Madi country." 

Ibrahim started with 120 armed men and a mass of 
Obbo people on the murauding expedition, 

On the following day Katchiba came to see us, bringing 
a present of flour. I gave him a tin plate, a wooden 
spoon, the last of the tea-cups, and a tinsel paper of 
mother-of-pearl shirt buttons, which took his fancy so 
immensely, that my wife was begged to suspend it from 
his neck like a medal. He was really a very good old 
fellow — by far the best I have seen in Africa. He was 
very suspicious of the Turks, who, he said, would ulti- 



238 SAAT BECOMES SCIENTIFIC. [Chap. IX. 

mately ruin him, as, by attacking the Madi tribe, they 
would become his enemies, and invade Obbo when the 
Turks should leave. Cattle were of very little use in his 
country, as the flies would kill them ; he had tried all his 
magic art, but it was of no avail against the flies ; my 
donkeys would all assuredly die. He said that the losses 
inflicted upon the various tribes by the Turks were ruinous, 
as their chief means of subsistence was destroyed ; without 
cattle they could procure no wives ; milk, their principal 
diet, was denied them, and they were driven to despair ; 
thus they would fight for their cattle, although they would 
allow their families to be carried off without resistance ; 
cattle would procure another family, but if the animals 
were stolen, there would be no remedy. 

Flies by day, rats and innumerable bugs by night, 
heavy dew, daily rain, and impenetrable reeking grass, 
rendered Obbo a prison about as disagreeable as could 
exist. 

The many months of tiresome inaction that I was forced 
to remain in this position, I will not venture to inflict 
upon the reader, but I will content myself with extracts 
from my journal from time to time, that will exhibit the 
general character of the situation. 

"Aug. 2d. — Several of my men have fever; the boy 
Saat, tfpon receiving a dose of calomel, asked, ' whether he 
was to swallow the paper in which it was wrapped V 
This is not the first time that I have been asked the same 
question by my men. Saat feels the ennui of Obbo, and 
finds it difficult to amuse himself; he has accordingly 
become so far scientific, that he has investigated the 
machinery of two of my watches, both of which he has 
destroyed. I am now reduced to one watch, the solitary 
survivor of four that formed my original family of time- 
keepers. Having commenced as a drummer, Saat feels 
the loss of his drum that was smashed by the camel ; he 
accordingly keeps his hand in by practising upon any- 
thing that he can adapt to that purpose, the sacred kettle 
inverted, and a tin cup, having been drummed until the one 
became leaky, and the bottom of the other disappeared. 



Ch.IX.] WILL ENGLAND SUPPRESS THE SLAVE TRADE? 239 

" Saat and the black woman are, unfortunately, enemies, 
and the monotony of the establishment is sometimes 
broken by a stand-up fight between him and his vicious 
antagonist, Gaddum Her. The latter has received a 
practical proof that the boy is growing strong, as I 
found him the other day improving her style of beauty 
by sitting astride upon her stomach, and punching her 
eyes with his fists, as she lay upon the ground furrow- 
ing Saat's fat cheeks with her very dirty nails. It is 
only fair to the boy to say that Gaddum Her is always 
the aggressor. 

" It is absurd to see the self-importance of the miserable 
cut-throats belonging to Koorshid's party, who, far too 
great to act as common soldiers, swagger about with little 
slave-boys in attendance, who carry their muskets. I 
often compare the hard lot of our honest poor in England 
with that of these scoundrels, whose courage consists in 
plundering and murdering defenceless natives, while the 
robbers fatten on the spoil. I am most anxious to see 
whether the English Government will take active notice 
of the White Nile trade, or whether diplomacy will con- 
fine them to simple protest and correspondence, to be 
silenced by a promise from the Egyptian Government to 
put a stop to the present atrocities. The Egyptian Govern- 
ment will of course promise, and, as usual with Turks, 
will never perform. On the other hand, the savages are 
themselves bad; one tribe welcomes the Turks as allies 
against their neighbours, and sees no crime in murder, 
provided the result be ' cattle.' This, of course, produces 
general confusion." 

"Aug. 6th. — The difficulties of procuring provisions are 
most serious : the only method of purchasing flour is as 
follows. The natives will not sell it for anything but 
flesh ; to purchase an ox, I require molotes (hoes) : to 
obtain molotes I must sell my clothes and shoes to the 
traders' men. The ox is then driven to a distant village, 
and is there slaughtered, and the flesh being divided into 
about a hundred small portions, my men sit upon the 
ground with three large baskets, into which are emptied 



r v 



240 FILTRT CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. [Chap. IX. 

minute baskets of flour as the natives produce them, one 
in exchange for each parcel of meat. This tedious process 
is a specimen of Central African difficulties in the simple 
act of purchasing flour. The Obbo natives are similar to 
the Bari in some of their habits. I have had great diffi- 
culty in breaking my cow-keeper of his disgusting custom 
of washing the milk-bowl with cow's urine, and even 
mixing some with the milk; he declares that unless he 
washes his hands with such water before milking, the cow 
will lose her milk. This filthy custom is unaccountable. 
The Obbo natives wash out their mouths with their own 
urine. This habit may have originated in the total absence 
of salt in their country. The Latookas, on the contrary, 
are very clean, and milk could be purchased in their own 
vessels without fear." 

"Aug. 8th — Having killed a fat ox, the men are busily 
engaged in boiling down the fat. Care should be taken to 
sprinkle a few drops of water in the pot when the fat is 
supposed to be sufficiently boiled; should it hiss, as 
though poured upon melted lead, it is ready ; but if it 
be silent, the fat is not sufficiently boiled, and it will 
not keep. 

" Three runaway female slaves were captured by Koor- 
shid's people this morning, two of whom were brutally 
treated. On the whole the female slaves are well kept 
when very young, but well thrashed when the black bloom 
of youth has passed." 

"Aug. 11th. — At this season immense beetles are at 
work in vast numbers, walking off with every species of 
dung, by forming it into balls as large as small apples, and 
rolling them away with their hind-legs, while they walk 
backwards by means of the fore-legs. Should a ball of 
dung roll into a deep rut, I have frequently seen another 
beetle come to the assistance of the proprietor of the ball, 
and quarrel for its possession after their joint labours have 
raised it to the level. 

" This species was the holy scarabaeus of the ancient 
Egyptians ; it appears shortly after the commenoement of 
the wet season, its labours continuing until the cessation 



Chap. IX.] BACHEETA, THE UNYORO SLAVE. 241 

of the rains, at which time it disappears. Was it not 
worshipped by the ancients as the harbinger of the high 
Nile? The existence of Lower Egypt depending npon 
the annual inundation, the rise of the river was observed 
with general anxiety. The beetle appears at the com- 
mencement of the rise in the river level, and from its 
great size and extraordinary activity in clearing the earth 
from all kinds of ordure, its presence is remarkable- 
Appearing at the season of the flood, may not the ancients 
have imagined some connexion between the beetle and the 
river, and have considered it sacred as the harbinger of the 
inundation ? 

" There is a wild bean in this country, the blossom of 
which has a delicious perfume of violets. I regret that I 
have not a supply of paper for botanical specimens, as 
many beautiful flowers appeared at the commencement of 
the rains. Few thorns and no gums form a strong contrast 
to the Soudan, where nearly every tree and shrub is 
armed." 

"Aug. ldth. — I had a long examination of a slave 
woman, Bacheeta, belonging to one of Koorshid's men. 
She had been sent two years ago by the king, Kamrasi, 
from Unyoro, as a spy among the traders, with orders to 
attract them to the country if appearances were favourable, 
but to return with a report should they be dangerous 
people. 

" On her arrival at Faloro, Debono's people captured 
her, and she was eventually sold to her present owner. 
She speaks Arabic, having learnt it from the traders' 
people. She declares that Magungo, the place of which I 
have heard so much, is only four days' hard marching for 
a native, direct from Faloro, but eight days' for the Turks , 
and that it is equi-distant from Faloro and from Kamrasi's 
capital in Unyoro. She had heard of the Luta N'zige, as 
reported to Speke, but she knew it only by the name of 
' Kara-wootan-N'zigeV 

"She corroborated the accounts I had formerly received, 
of large boats arriving with Arabs at Magungo, and she 
described the lake as a ' white sheet as far as the eye could 



242 INTELLIGENCE OF THE LAKE. [Chap. IX. 

reach.' She particularized it as a peculiar water, that was 
unlike other waters, as it would ' come up to a water-jar, if 
put upon the shore, and carry it away and break it.' By 
this description I understood 'waves.' She also described 
the ' Gondokoro river,' or White Nile, as flowing into and 
out of the lake, and she spoke of a 'great roar of water 
that fell from the sky.' 

" I trust I may succeed in reaching this lake : if not, 
my entire time, labour, and expenditure will have been 
wasted, as I throw sport entirely aside for the sake of this 
exploration. Were I to think of shooting in preference to 
exploring, I could have excellent sport on the Atabbi river 
during the dry season, as also on the Kanieti, in the 
vicinity of Wakkala ; but I must neglect all but the great 
object, and push on to Kamrasi's capital, and from thence 
to the lake. My great anxiety lies in the conduct of 
Koorshicl's party ; should they make razzias south, I shall 
be ruined, as my men will be afraid to advance through a 
disturbed country. I must keep on good terms with the 
chief of the party, as I depend upon him for an interpreter 
and porters. 

"My plan is to prevail on Ibrahim to commence an 
ivory trade in Kamrasi's country that might be legitimately 
conducted, instead of the present atrocious system of 
robbery and murder. I like Koorshid, as he is a bold- 
spoken robber instead of acting the hypocrite like the other 
traders of Khartoum ; thus, as he was the only man that 
was civil to me, I would do him a good turn could I 
establish an honest trade between Kamrasi and himself; 
at the same time, I should have the advantage of his party 
as escort to the desired country. The case commercially 
lies as follows : — 

"Kamrasi's country, Unyoro, is a virgin land, where 
beads are hardly known, and where the king is the despotic 
ruler, whose word is law. All trade would be conducted 
through him alone, in the shape of presents, he giving 
elephants' tusks, while, in return, Koorshid would send 
him beads and various articles annually. Koorshid would 
thus be the sole trader with Kamrasi accordinc - to White 



Chap. IX.] COMMERCE WITH THE INTERIOR. 243 

Nile rules, and the abominable system of cattle robbery- 
would be avoided. 

" The great difficulty attending trade in a distant country 
is the want of means of transport, one tribe, being gene- 
rally hostile to the adjoining, fears to afford porters beyond 
the frontier. If I can prove that the Lake Luta N'zige 
is one source of the Nile with a navigable junction, I can 
at once do away with the great difficulty, and open up 
a direct trade for Koorshid. The Lake is in Kamrasi's 
own dominions: thus he will have no fear in supplying 
porters to deliver the ivory at a depot that might be 
established, either on the lake or at its junction with the 
Nile. A vessel should be built upon the lake, to trade 
with the surrounding coasts, and to receive the ivory from 
the depot. This vessel would then descend from the lake 
to the While Nile, to the head of the cataracts, where a 
camp should be formed, from which, in a few days' march, 
the ivory would reach Gondokoro. 

" A large trade might thus be established, as not only 
Unyoro would supply ivory, but the lake would open the 
navigation to the very heart of Africa. The advantage of 
dealing with Kamrasi direct would be great, as he is not 
a mere savage, demanding beads and bracelets ; but he 
would receive printed cottons, and goods of various kinds, 
by which means the ivory would be obtained at a merely 
nominal rate. The depot on the Luta N'zige" should be 
a general store, at which the vessel ascending from the 
station above the cataracts would deliver the various goods 
from Gondokoro, and from this store the goods would be 
disseminated throughout the countries bordering the lake 
by means of vessels. 

" The only drawback to this honest trade would be the 
general hatred of anything honest by the Khartoumers; 
the charms of cattle razzias and slave-hunting, with the 
attendant murders, attract these villanous cut-throats to 
the White Nile expeditions, and I fear it would be diffi- 
cult to raise the number of armed men required for 
safety, were legitimate trade the sole object of the ivory 
hunter. 

K 2 



244 OBBO THE CLOTHING FRONTIER. [Chap. IX. 

"Even in Obbo, I believe that printed calicoes, red 
woollen shirts, blankets, &c. would purchase ivory. The 
elevation of this country being upwards of 3,600 feet, 
the nights are cold, and even the day is cold during the 
wet season ; thus clothing is required ; this we see in the 
first rudiments of covering, the skins of beasts used by the 
natives ; the Obbo people being the first tribe that adopts 
a particle of clothing from the Shillook country (lat. 10°) 
throughout the entire course of the White Nile to this 
latitude (4° 02'). Kamrasi's tribe are well covered, and 
farther south, towards Zanzibar, all tribes are clothed 
more or less ; thus Obbo is the clothing frontier, where 
the climate has first prompted the savage to cover himself, 
while in the hot lowlands he remains in a state of naked- 
ness. Where clothing is required, English manufacturers 
would find a market in exchange for ivory ; thus from this 
point a fair trade might be commenced. 

"From Earajoke, in the Sooli country, lat. 3° 33', up 
to this date the most southern limit of my explorations, 
the lake is about nine or ten days' march in a direct 
course ; but such a route is impossible, owing to Debono's 
establishment occupying the intervening country, and the 
rules of the traders forbid a trespass upon their assumed 
territory. Koorshid's men would refuse to advance by 
that route ; my men, if alone, will be afraid to travel, and 
will find some excuse for not proceeding ; from the very 
outset they have been an absolute burthen upon me, 
receiving a monthly allowance of two pounds of beads per 
head for doing literally nothing, after having ruined the 
independence of my expedition by their mutiny at Gon- 
dokoro." 

"Aug. 23d. — My last camel died to-day; thus all my 
horses and camels are dead, and only eight donkeys remain 
out of twenty-one ; most of these will die, if not all. There 
can be no doubt that the excessive wet in all the food, 
owing to the constant rain and dew, is the principal cause 
of disease. The camels, horses, and donkeys of the Soudan, 
all thrive in the hot dry air of that country, and are un- 
suited for this damp climate. 



Chap. IX.] A MORNING CALL IN OBBO. 245 

" Had I been without transport animals, my expedition 
could not have left Gondokoro, as there was no possibility 
of procuring porters. I had always expected that my 
animals would die, but I had hoped they would have 
carried me to the equator : this they would have accom- 
plished during the two months of comparative dry weather 
following my arrival at Gondokoro, had not the mutiny 
thwarted all my plans, and thrown me into the wet season. 
My animals have delivered me at Obbo, and have died in 
inaction, instead of wearing out upon the road. Had I 
been able to start direct from Gondokoro, as I had intended, 
my animals would have delivered me in Kamrasi's country 
before the arrival of the heavy rains. 

" There is an excellent species of gourd in Obbo ; it is 
pear-shaped, about ten inches long, and seven in diameter, 
with a white skin, and warts upon the surface ; this is 
the most delicate and the best-flavoured that I have ever 
eaten. 

" There are two varieties of castor-oil plant in this 
country — one with a purple stem and bright red veins 
in the leaves, that is remarkably handsome. Also a wild 
plantain, with a crimson stem to the leaf ; this does not 
grow to the height of the common plantain, but is simply 
a plume of leaves springing from the ground without a 
parent stem." 

"Aug. 30th. — Mrs. Baker and I made a morning call 
for the first time upon old Katchiba by his express desire. 
His courtyard was cemented and clean, about a hundred 
feet in diameter, surrounded by palisades, which were over- 
grown with gourds and the climbing yam, Collolollo. There 
were several large huts in the inclosure, belonging to his 
wives ; he received us very politely, and begged us to enter 
his principal residence ; it was simply arranged, being the 
usual circular hut, but about twenty -five feet in diameter. 
Creeping on all fours through the narrow doorway, we 
found ourselves in the presence of one of his wives, who 
was preparing merissa. The furniture of the apartment was 
practical, and quite in accordance with the taste of the old 
chief, as the whole establishment appeared to be devoted 



246 KATCHIBA'S MUSICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS. [Chap. IX. 

to brewing merissa. There were several immense jars 
capable of holding about thirty gallons : some of these 
were devoted to beer, while one was reserved to contain 
little presents that he had received from ourselves and 
the Turks, including a much-esteemed red flannel shirt : 
these recherche objects were packed in the jar, and covered 
by a smaller vessel inverted on the mouth to protect them 
from rats and white ants. Two or three well-prepared 
ox-hides were spread upon the ground ; and he requested 
Mrs. Baker to sit on his right hand, while 1 sat upon the 
left. Thus satisfactorily arranged, he called for some 
merissa, which his wife immediately brought in an im- 
mense gourd-shell, and both my wife and I having 
drunk, he took a long draught, and finished the gourd. 
The delightful old sorcerer, determined to entertain us, 
called for his rababa : a species of harp was handed to 
him; this was formed of a hollow base and an upright 
piece of wood, from which descended eight strings. Some 
time was expended in carefully tuning his instrument, 
which, being completed, he asked, ' if he should sing ? ' 
Fully prepared for something comic, we begged him to 
begin. He sang a most plaintive and remarkably wild, 
but pleasing air, accompanying himself perfectly on his 
harp* producing the best music that I had ever heard 
among savages. In fact, music and dancing were old 
Katchiba's delight, especially if combined with deep pota- 
tions. His song over, he rose from his seat and departed, 
but presently reappeared leading a sheep by a string, which 
he begged us to accept. I thanked him for his attention, 
but I assured him that we had not paid him a visit with 
the expectation of receiving a present, and that we could 
not think of accepting it, as we had simply called upon 
him as friends; he accordingly handed the sheep to his 
wife, and shortly after we rose to depart. Having effected 
an exit by creeping through the doorway, he led us both 
by the hand in a most friendly way for about a hundred 
yards on our path, and took leave most gracefully, express- 
ing a hope that we should frequently come to see him. 
"On our return home we found the sheep waiting for 



Cuap. IX.] LOSS OF REMAINING DONKEY. 24" 

us ; determined not to be refused, he had sent it on before 
us. I accordingly returned him a most gorgeous necklace 
of the most valuable beads, and gave the native who had 
brought the sheep a present for himself and wife ; thus all 
parties were satisfied, and the sheep was immediately killed 
for dinner. 

" The following morning Katchiba appeared at my door 
with a large red flag made of a piece of cotton cloth that 
the Turks had given him ; he was accompanied by two men 
beating large-drums, and a third playing a kind of clarionet : 
this playing at soldiers was an imitation of the Turks. He 
was in great spirits, being perfectly delighted with the 
necklace I had sent him." 

" Oct. 6th. — I have examined my only remaining donkey ! 
he is a picture of misery — eyes and nose running, coat 
staring, and he is about to start to join his departed com- 
rades ; he has packed up for his last journey. With his 
loose skin hanging to his withered frame he looked like 
the British lion on the shield over the door of the Khar- 
toum consulate. In that artistic effort the lion was equally 
lean and ragged, having perhaps been thus represented by 
the artist as a pictorial allusion to the smallness of the 
Consul's pay; the illustration over the shabby gateway 
titters, ' Behold my leanness ! 150?. per annum ! ' 

" I feel a touch of the poetic stealing over me when I 
look at my departing donkey. ' I never loved a dear 
gazelle,' &c. : but the practical question, ' Who is to carry 
the portmanteau ? ' remains unanswered. I do not believe 
the Turks have any intention of going to Kamrasi's country ; 
they are afraid, as they have heard that he is a powerful 
king, and they fear the restrictions that power will place 
upon their felonious propensities. In that case I shall go 
on without them ; but they have deceived me, by borrow- 
ing 165 lbs. of beads which they cannot repay; this puts 
me to much inconvenience. The Asua river is still im- 
passable, according to native reports ; this will prevent a 
general advance south. Should the rains cease, the river 
will fall rapidly, and I shall make a forward move and 
escape this prison of high grass and inaction." 

"Oct. llth. — Lions roaring every night, but not visible. 



248 - COMING EVENTS," ETC.— FEVER. [Chap. IX. 

I set my men to work to construct a fortified camp, a 
simple oblong of palisades with two Hanking projections 
at opposite angles to command all approaches ; the lazy 
scoundrels are sulky in consequence. Their daily occu- 
pation is drinking merissa, sleeping, and strumming on the 
rababa, while that of the black women is quarrelling — 
one ebony sister insulting the other by telling her that 
she is as 'black as the kettle,' and recommending her 
' to eat poison.' " 

" Oct. 17th. — I expect an attack of fever to-morrow or 
next day, as I understand from constant and painful 
experiences every step of this insidious disease. For some 
days one feels a certain uneasiness of spirits difficult to 
explain; no peculiar symptom is observed until a day 
or two before the attack, when great lassitude is felt, with 
a desire to sleep. Eheumatic pains in the loins, back, and 
joints of the limbs are accompanied by a sense of great 
weakness. A cold fit comes on very quickly; this is so 
severe that it almost immediately affects the stomach, 
producing painful vomiting with severe retching. The 
eyes are heavy and painful, the head hot and aching, the 
extremities pale and cold, pulse very weak, and about 
fifty-six beats per minute ; the action of the heart dis- 
tressingly weak, with total prostration of strength. This 
shivering and vomiting continues for about two hours, 
attended with great difficulty of breathing. The hot stage 
then comes on, the retching still continuing, with the 
difficulty of breathing, intense weakness and restlessness 
for about an hour and a half, which, should the remedies 
be successful, terminate in profuse perspiration and sleep. 
The attack ends, leaving the stomach in a dreadful state 
of weakness. The fever is remittent, the attack returning 
almost at the same hour every two days, and reducing the 
patient rapidly to a mere skeleton ; the stomach refuses 
to act, and death ensues. Any severe action of the mind, 
such as grief or anger, is almost certain to be succeeded 
by fever in this country. My stock of quinine is re- 
duced to a few grains, and my work lies before me ; my 
cattle are all dead. We are both weakened by repeated 
fever, and travelling must be on foot." 



CHAPTEE X. 

LIFE AT OB BO. 

FOE months we dragged on a miserable existence at 
Obbo, wrecked by fever ; the quinine exhausted ; 
thus the disease worried me almost to death, returning at 
intervals of a few days. Fortunately my wife did not 
suffer so much as I did. I had nevertheless prepared for 
the journey south ; and as travelling on foot would have 
been impossible in our weak state, I had purchased and 
trained three oxen in lieu of horses. They were named 
" Beef," " Steaks," and " Suet." " Beef " was a magnificent 
animal, but having been bitten by the flies, he so lost his 
condition that I changed his name to " Bones." We were 
ready to start, and the natives reported that early in 
January the Asua would be fordable. I had arranged 
with Ibrahim that he should supply me with porters for 
payment in copper bracelets, and that he should accom- 
pany me with one hundred men to Kamrasi's country 
(Unyoro), on condition that he would restrain his people 
from all misdemeanours, and that they should be entirely 
subservient to me. It was the month of December, and 
during the nine months that I had been in correspondence 
with his party I had succeeded in acquiring an extraor- 
dinary influence. Although my camp was nearly three- 
quarters of a mile from their zareeba, I had been besieged 
daily for many months for everything that was wanted ; 
my camp was a kind of general store that appeared to be 
inexhaustible. I gave all that I had with a good grace, 
and thereby gained the goodwill of the robbers, especially 
as my large medicine-chest contained a supply of drugs 
that rendered me in their eyes a physician of the first 
importance. I had been very successful with my patients ; 
and the medicines that I generally used being those 



m ~-~. 



250 PHYSICIAN IN GENERAL. [Chap. X. 

which produced a very decided effect, Loth the Turks and 
natives considered them with perfect faith. There was 
seldom any difficulty in prognosticating the effect of tartar 
emetic, and this became the favourite drug that was almost 
daily applied for; a dose of three grains enchanting the 
patient, who always advertised my fame by saying, " He 
told me I should be sick, and, by Allah ! there was no 
mistake about it." Accordingly there was a great run 
upon the tartar emetic. Many people in Debono's camp 
had died, including several of my deserters who had joined 
them. News was brought that, in three separate fights 
with the natives, my deserters had been killed on every 
occasion, and my men and those of Ibrahim unhesitatingly 
declared it was the "hand of God." None of Ibrahim's 
men had died since we left Latooka. One man, who had 
been badly wounded by a lance thrust through his ab- 
domen, I had successfully treated ; and the trading party, 
who would at one time gladly have exterminated me, now 
exclaimed, "What shall we do when the Sowar (traveller) 
leaves the country?" Mrs. Baker had been exceedingly 
kind to the women and children of both the traders and 
natives, and together we had created so favourable an 
impression that we were always referred to as umpires in 
every.dispute. My own men, although indolent, were so 
completely disciplined that they would not have dared to 
disobey an order, and they looked back upon their former 
mutinous conduct with surprise at their own audacity, 
and declared that they feared to return to Khartoum, as 
they were sure that I should not forgive them. 

I had promised Ibrahim that I would use my influence 
with the King of Unyoro to procure him the ivory of that 
country; — I had a good supply of beads, while Ibrahim 
had none ; thus he was dependent upon me for opening 
the road. Everything looked fair, and had I been strong 
and well I should have enjoyed the future prospect ; but I 
was weak and almost useless, and weighed down with 
anxiety lest I might die and my wife would be left alone. 

The rains had ceased, and the wild grapes were ripe; 
the natives brought them in great quantities in exchange 



Chap. X.] KATCHIBA IS APPLIED TO FOB RAIN. 251 

for a few beads. They were in extremely large bunches, 
invariably black, and of a good size, but; not juicy — the 
flavour was good, and they were most refreshing, and cer- 
tainly benefited my health. I pressed about two hundred 
pounds of grapes in the large sponging bath, but procured 
so little juice, and that so thick, that wine-making proved 
a failure ; it fermented, and we drank it, but it was not 
wine. One day, hearing a great noise of voices and blow- 
ing of horns in the direction of Katchiba's residence, I sent 
to inquire the cause. The old chief himself appeared very 
angry and excited. He said, that his people were very bad, 
that they had been making a great noise and finding fault 
with him because he had not supplied them with a few 
showers, as they wanted to sow their crop of tullaboon. 
There had been no rain for about a fortnight. 

" Well," I replied, " you are the rainmaker ; why don't 
you give your people rain ? " " Give my people rain ! " 
said Katchiba. " I give them rain if they don't give me 
goats ? You don't know my people ; if I am fool enough 
to give them rain before they give me the goats, they would 
let me starve ! No, no ! let them wait — if they don't bring 
me supplies of corn, goats, fowls, yams, merissa, and all 
that I require, not one drop of rain shall ever fall again in 
Obbo ! Impudent brutes are my people ! Do you know, 
they have positively threatened to kill me unless I bring 
the rain ? They shan't have a drop ; I will wither the 
crops, and bring a plague upon their flocks. I'll teach 
these rascals to insult me ! " 

With all this bluster, I saw that old Katchiba was in 
a great dilemma, and that he would give anything for a 
shower, but that he did not know how to get out of the 
scrape. It was a common freak of the tribes to sacrifice 
the rainmaker, should he be unsuccessful. He suddenly 
altered his tone, and asked, " Have you any rain in your 
country?" I replied that we had, every now and then. 
" How do you bring it ? Are you a rainmaker ?" I told 
him that no one believed in rainmakers in our country, 
but that we understood how to bottle lightning (meaning 
electricity). " I don't keep mine in bottles, but I have a 



mmsi*mm 



2.y2 SUCCESSFUL CASK [Chap. X. 

houseful of thunder and lightning," he most coolly replied ; 
" but if you can bottle lightning you must understand rain- 
making. What do you think of the weather to-day ? " I 
immediately saw the drift of the cunning old Katchiba ; 
he wanted professional advice. I replied, that he must 
know all about it, as he was a regular rainmaker. " Of 
course I do," he answered, " but I want to know what you 
think of it." " Well," I said, " I don't think we shall have 
any steady rain, but I think we may have a heavy shower 
in about four days (I said this as I had observed fleecy 
clouds gathering daily in the afternoon). " Just my 
opinion ! " said Katchiba, delighted ; " in four or perhaps 
in five days I intend to give them one shower ; just one 
shower ; yes, I'll just step down to them now, and tell the 
rascals, that if they will bring me some goats by this even- 
ing, and some corn to-morrow morning, I will give them in 
four or five days just one shower." To give effect to his 
declaration he gave several toots upon his magic whistle. 
" Do you use whistles in your country ? " inquired Katchiba. 
I only replied by giving so shrill and deafening a whistle 
on my fingers that Katchiba stopped his ears ; and re- 
lapsing into a smile of admiration he took a glance at the 
sky from the doorway to see if any sudden effect had been 
produced. " Whistle again," he said ; and once more I 
performed like the whistle of a locomotive. " That will 
do, we shall have it," said the cunning old rainmaker ; and 
proud of having so knowingly obtained " counsel's opinion " 
on his case, he toddled off to his impatient subjects. 

In a few days a sudden storm of rain and violent 
thunder added to Katchiba's renown, and after the shower, 
horns were blowing and nogaras were beating in honour 
of their chief. Entre nous, my whistle was considered 
infallible. 

The natives were busy sowing the new crop just as the 
last crop was ripening. It did not appear likely that they 
would reap much for their labour, as the elephants, having 
an accurate knowledge of the season, visited their fields 
nightly, and devoured and trampled the greater portion. I 
had been too ill to think of shooting, as there was no other 



Chap. X.] NIGHT-WATCH FOR ELEPHANTS. 253 

method than to watch in the tullaboon fields at night ; the 
high grass in which the elephants harboured being im- 
penetrable. Feeling a little better I took my men to the 
field about a mile from the village, and dug a hole, in 
which I intended to watch. 

That night I took Eicharn, and we sat together in 
our narrow grave. There was no sound throughout the 
night. I was well wrapped up in a Scotch plaid, but an 
attack of ague came on, and I shivered as though in Lap- 
land. I had several rifles in the grave ; among others the 
" Baby," that carried a half-pound explosive shell. At 
about 4 a.m. I heard the distant trumpet of an elephant, 
and I immediately ordered Eicharn to watch, and to report 
to me their arrival. It was extremely dark, but Eicharn 
presently sank slowly down, and whispered, " Here they 
are ! " 

Taking the " Baby," I quietly rose, and listening atten- 
tively, I could distinctly hear the elephants tearing off the 
heads of the tullaboon, and crunching the crisp grain. I 
could distinguish the dark forms of the herd about thirty 
paces from me, but much too indistinct for a shot. I stood 
with my elbows resting on the edge of the hole, and the heavy 
rifle balanced, waiting for an opportunity. I had a paper- 
sight arranged for night shooting, and I several times tried 
to get the line of an elephant's shoulder, but to no purpose; 
I could distinguish the sight clearly, but not the elephant. 
As I was watching the herd I suddenly heard a trumpet 
close to my left, and I perceived an elephant quickly 
walking exactly towards my grave. I waited with the 
rifle at my shoulder until he was within about twelve 
paces ; I then whistled, and he stopped, and turned quickly, 
exposing his side. Taking the line of the fore-leg, I fired 
at the shoulder. The tremendous flash and smoke of ten 
drachms of powder completely blinded me, and the sudden 
reaction of darkness increased the obscurity. I could dis- 
tinguish nothing; but I heard a heavy fall, and a few 
moments after I could hear a rustling in the grass as the 
herd of elephants retreated into the grass jungles. Eicharn 
declared that the elephant had fallen ; but I again heard a 



254 DIMENSIONS OF THE ELEPHANT. [Chap. X. 

rustling in the high grass jungle within eighty yards of 
me, and this sound continued in the same place. I accord- 
ingly concluded that the elephant was very badly wounded, 
and that he could not move from the spot. Nothing could 
be seen. 

At length the birds began to chirp, and the "black- 
smith" (as I named one of the first to wake, whose two 
sharp ringing notes exactly resemble the blows of a 
hammer upon an anvil) told me that it was nearly day- 
break. The grey of morning had just appeared when 1 
heard voices, and I saw Mrs. Baker coming along the field 
with a party of men, whom she had brought down from 
the village with knives and axes. She had heard the roar 
of the heavy rifle, and knowing the " Baby's " scream, and 
the usual fatal effects, she had considered the elephant as 
bagged. The natives had also heard the report, and people 
began to accumulate from all quarters for the sake of the 
flesh. The elephant was not dead, but was standing about 
ten yards within the grass jungle; however, in a short time 
a heavy fall sounded his knell, and the crowd rushed in. 
He was a fine bull, and before I allowed him to be cut 
up, I sent for the measuring-tape ; the result being as 
follows : — 

Feet. Inches. 

From tip of trunk to fleshy end of tail 26 0| 

Height from shoulder to fore-foot in a perpendicular line 10 6£ 

Girth of fore-foot .!_ 4 10£ 

Length of one tusk in the curve 6 6 

Ditto of fellow tusk (el Hadam, the servant) .... 5 11 
"Weight of tusks, 80 lbs. and 69 lbs. = 149 lbs. 

The ridiculous accounts that I have read, stating that 
the height of elephants attains fifteen feet, is simply laugh- 
able ignorance. A difference of a foot in an elephant's 
height is enormous ; he appears a giant among his lesser 
comrades. Observe the difference between a' horse sixteen 
hands high and a pony of thirteen hands, and the dif- 
ference of a foot in the height of a quadruped is exem- 
plified. 

The word being given, the crowd rushed upon the 
elephant, and about three hundred people were attacking 



Chap. X.] WILD BOARS. 255 

the carcase with knives and lances. About a dozen men 
were working inside as though in a tunnel; they had 
chosen this locality as being near to the fat, w r hich was 
greatly coveted. 

A few days later I attempted to set fire to the grass 
jungle, but it would not burn thoroughly, leaving scorched 
stems that were rendered still tougher by the fire. On the 
following evening I took a stroll over the burnt ground to 
look for game. No elephants had visited the spot ; but as 
I was walking along expecting nothing, up jumped a wild 
boar and sow from the entrance of a large hole of the 
Manis, or great scaled ant-eater. Being thus taken by 
surprise, the boar very imprudently charged me, and was 
immediately knocked over dead by a shot through the 
spine from the little Fletcher rifle, while the left-hand 
barrel rolled over his companion, who almost immediately 
recovered and disappeared in the grass jungle ; however, 
there was pork for those who liked it, and I went to the 
camp and sent a number of natives to bring it home. The 
Obbo people were delighted, as it was their favourite game, 
but none of my people would touch the unclean animal. 
The wild pigs of this country live underground ; they take 
possession of the holes made by the Manis : these they 
enlarge and form cool and secure retreats. 

A bad attack of fever laid me up until the 31st of 
December. On the first day of January, 1864, I was 
hardly able to stand, and was nearly worn out at the very 
time that I required my strength, as we were to start south 
in a few clays. 

Although my quinine had been long since exhausted, 
I had reserved ten grains to enable me to start in case the 
fever should attack me at the time of departure. I now 
swallowed my last dose, and on 3d January, I find the 
following note in my journal : " All ready for a start to- 
morrow. I trust the year 186-4 will bring better luck than 
the past, that having been the most annoying that I have 
ever experienced, and full of fever. I hope now to reach 
Kamrasi's country in a fortnight, and to obtain guides from 
hiii] direct to the lake. My Latooka, to whom I have been 



256 MRS. BAKER THROWN FROM HER OX. [Chap. X. 

very kind, has absconded : there is no difference in any of 
these savages; if hungry, they will fawn upon you, and 
when filled, they will desert. I believe that ten years' 
residence in the Soudan and this country would spoil an 
Angel, and would turn the best heart to stone." 

It was difficult to procure porters, therefore I left all my 
effects at my camp in charge of two of my men, and I 
determined to travel light, without the tent, and to take 
little beyond ammunition and cooking utensils. Ibrahim 
left forty-five men in his zareeba, and on the 5th of January 
we started. Mrs. Baker rode her ox, but my animal being 
very shy, I ordered him to be driven for about a mile with 
the others to accustom him to the crowd : not approving 
of the expedition, he bolted into the high grass with my 
English saddle, and I never saw him again. In my weak 
state I had to walk. We had not gone far when a large 
fly fastened upon Mrs. Baker's ox, just by his tail, the 
effect of which was to produce so sudden a kick and 
plunge, that he threw her to the ground and hurt her 
considerably: she accordingly changed the animal, and 
rode a splendid ox that Ibrahim very civilly offered. I 
had to walk to the Atabbi, about eighteen miles, which, 
although a pleasant stroll when in good health, I found 
rather fatiguing. We bivouacked on the south bank of 
the Atabbi. 

The next morning, after a walk of about eight miles, 
I purchased of one of the Turks the best ox that I have 
ever ridden, at the price of a double-barrelled gun — it was 
a great relief to be well mounted, as I was quite unfit for 
a j.ourney on foot. 

At 430 p.m. we arrived at one of the villages of Farajoke. 
The character of the country had entirely changed ; instead 
of the rank and superabundant vegetation of Obbo, we 
were in a beautiful open country, naturally drained by its 
undulating character, and abounding in most beautiful low 
pasturage. Vast herds of cattle belonged to the different 
villages, but these had all been driven to concealment, 
as the report had been received that the Turks were 
approaching. The country was thickly populated, but the 



Chap. X.] THE ASUA RIFER. 257 

natives appeared very mistrustful ; the Turks immediately 
entered the villages, and ransacked the granaries for corn, 
digging up the yams, and helping themselves to everything 
as though quite at home. I was on a heautiful grass 
sward on the gentle slope of a hill : here I arranged to 
bivouac for the night. 

In three days' march from this point through beautiful 
park-like country, we arrived at the Asua river. The 
entire route from Farajoke had been a gentle descent, and 
I found this point of the Asua in lat N. 3° 12' to be 
2,875 feet above the sea level, 1,091 feet lower than 
Farajoke. The river was a hundred and twenty paces 
broad, and from the bed to the top of the perpendicular 
banks was about fifteen feet. At this season it was almost 
dry, and a narrow channel of about six inches deep flowed 
through the centre of the otherwise exhausted river. The 
bed was much obstructed by rocks, and the inclination 
was so rapid that I could readily conceive the impossi- 
bility of crossing it during the rains. It formed the 
great drain of the country, all its waters flowing to the 
Nile, but during the dry months it was most insignificant. 
The country between Farajoke and the Asua, although 
lovely, was very thinly populated, and the only villages 
that I saw were built upon low hills of bare granite, 
which lay in huge piles of disjointed fragments. 

On arrival at the river, while the men were washing 
in the clear stream, I took a rifle and strolled along the 
margin ; I shortly observed a herd of the beautiful Me- 
hedehet antelopes feeding upon the rich but low grass 
of a sandbank in the very centre of the river. Stalking 
them to within a hundred and twenty paces they obtained 
my wind, and, ceasing to graze, they gazed intently at me. 
I was on the high bank among the bushes, and I imme- 
diately picked out the biggest, and fired, missing my mark. 
All dashed away except the animal at which I fired, who 
stood in uncertainty for a few moments, when the second 
barrel of the Fletcher 24 rifle knocked him over, striking 
him through the neck. Hearing the quick double shot, 
my people came running to the spot, accompanied by a 

s 



258 



A PRAIRIE FIRE. 



[Chap. X. 



number of the native porters, and were rejoiced to find 
a good supply of meat; the antelope weighed about five 
hundred pounds, and was sufficient to afford a good dinner 
for the whole party. 

The Mehed^het is about 13 hands high, with rough 
brown hair like the Samber deer of India. 




MEHEDEHET ANTELOPE. 



Our resting-place was on the dry, rocky bed of the 
river, close to the edge of the shallow but clear stream 
that' rippled over the uneven surface. Some beautiful 
tamarind trees afforded a most agreeable shade, and alto- 
aether it was a charming place to bivouac. Although 
St Obbo the grass was not sufficiently dry to burn, m 
this country it was reduced to a crisp straw, and I imme- 
diately set fire to the prairies ; the wind was strong, and 
we had a grand blaze, the flames crackling and leaping 
about thirty feet high, and sweeping along with so mad 






Chap. X.] TRACKING AN ANTELOPE. 259 

a fury that within an hour the entire country was a 
continuous line of fire. Not a trace of vegetation re- 
mained behind ; the country appeared as though covered 
with a pall of black velvet. Eeturning from my work, 
I found my camping-place well arranged — beds prepared, 
and a good dinner ready of antelope-soup and cutlets. 

On waking the next morning, I found that the Turks 
had all disappeared during the night, and that I was alone 
with my people. It was shortly explained that they had 
departed to attack some village, to which they were 
guided by some natives who had accompanied them from 
Farajoke. 

I accordingly took my rifle and strolled along the 
margin of the river to look for game, accompanied by two 
of my porters. Although it was a most likely country, 
being a natural park well timbered, with a river flowing 
through the midst, there was a great scarcity of wild 
animals. At length, in crossing a ravine that had stopped 
the progress of the fire, an antelope (water-buck) jumped 
out of a hollow, and, rushing through the high grass, he 
exposed himself for an instant in crossing the summit of 
a bare knoll, and received a ball from the little Fletcher 
in the hind-quarters. Although badly wounded, he was 
too nimble for my natives, who chased him with their 
spears for about a quarter of a mile. These fellows 
tracked him beautifully, and we at length found him 
hiding in a deep pool in the river, and he was immediately 
despatched. 

After a long walk, during which I did not obtain another 
shot, I returned to my resting-place, and, refreshed by 
a bathe in the cool river, I slept as sound as though in 
the most luxurious bed in England. On the following 
morning I went out early, and shot a small species of 
antelope; and shortly after my return to breakfast, the 
Turks' party arrived, bringing with them about three 
hundred head of cattle that they had captured from the 
Madi tribe. They did not seem at all in good spirits, and 
I shortly heard that they had lost their standard-bearer, 
killed in the fight, and that the flag had been in great 

s 2 



260 ARRIVAL AT SHOOA. [Chap. X. 

peril, and had been saved by the courage of a young Bari 
slave. The ensign was separated from the main party, and 
was attacked by four natives, who killed the bearer, and 
snatched away the flag : this would inevitably have been 
lost, had not the Bari boy of about fifteen shot the fore- 
most native dead with a pistol, and, snatching the flag 
from his hands, ran with it towards the Turks, some of 
whom coming up at that instant, the natives did not think 
it wise to pursue their advantage. A number of slaves 
had been captured ; among others, several young children, 
one of whom was an infant. These unfortunate women 
and children, excepting the infant, were all tied by the 
neck with a long leathern thong, so as to form a living 
chain, and guards were set over them to prevent escape. 
The Bari natives would make good soldiers, as they are 
far more courageous than most of the savage tribes. The 
best men among the party of Ibrahim are Baris ; among 
them is a boy named Arnout ; he is the drummer, and he 
once saved his master in a fight by suddenly presenting 
his drumstick like a pistol at several natives, who had 
attacked him while unloaded. The natives, seeing the 
determined attitude of the boy, and thinking that the 
drumstick was a firearm, ran off. We started at day- 
break on 13th January, and, ascending the whole way, 
we reached Shooa, in latitude 3° 4'. The route throughout 
had been of the same park-like character, interspersed 
with occasional hills of fine granite, piled in the enormous 
blocks so characteristic of that stone. 

Shooa was a lovely place. A fine granite mountain 
ascended in one block in a sheer precipice for about 800 
feet from its base, perfectly abrupt on the eastern side, 
while the other portions of the mountain were covered 
with fine forest trees, and picturesquely dotted over with 
villages. This country formed a natural park, remarkably 
well watered. by numerous rivulets, ornamented with fine 
timber, and interspersed with numerous high rocks of 
granite, which from a distance produced the effect of 
ruined castles. 

The pasturage was of a superior quality, and of the 



Chap. X.] ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 261 

same description as that of Farajoke. The country being 
undulating, there was a small brook in every valley that 
formed a natural drain. Accordingly, the more elevated 
land was remarkably dry and healthy. On arrival at 
the foot of the abrupt mountain, we camped beneath an 
immense india-rubber tree, that afforded a delightful shade, 
from which elevated spot we had a superb view of the 
surrounding country, and could see the position of 
Debono's camp, about twenty-five miles to the west by 
north, at the foot of the Faloro hills. 

By Casella's thermometer, I determined the altitude of 
Shooa to be 3,877 feet — 1,002 feet above the Asua river, 
and 89 feet lower than Farajoke. These observations of 
the thermometer agreed with the natural appearance of the 
country, the Asua river forming the main drain in a deep 
valley, into which innumerable rivulets convey the drain- 
age from both north and south. Accordingly, the Asua, 
receiving the Atabbi river, which is the main drain of the 
western face of the Madi mountains, and the entire drain- 
age of the Madi and Shooa countries, together with that of 
extensive countries to the east of Shooa, including the 
rivers Chombi and Udat, from Lira and Umiro, it becomes 
a tremendous torrent so long as the rains continue, and 
conveys a grand volume of water to the Nile ; but the 
inclination of all these countries tending rapidly to the 
north-west, the bed of the Asua river partakes of the 
general incline, and so quickly empties after the cessation 
of the rains that it becomes nil as a river. By the mean 
of several observations I determined the latitude of Shooa 
3° 04', longitude 32° 04' E. We were now about twelve 
miles south of Debono's outpost, Faloro. The whole of 
the Shooa country was assumed to belong to Mahommed 
Wat-el-Mek, the vakeel of Debono, and we had passed the 
ashes of several villages that had been burnt and plundered 
by these people between Farajoke and this point; the 
entire country had been laid waste. 

There was no great chief at Shooa ; each village had a 
separate headman ; formerly the population had occupied 
the lower ground, but since the Turks had been established 



262 FERTILITY OF SHOOA. (Chap. X. 

at Faloro and had plundered the neighbouring tribes, the 
natives had forsaken their villages and had located them- 
selves among the mountains for security. It was the 
intention of Ibrahim to break through the rules accepted 
by the White Nile traders, and to establish himself at 
Shooa, which, although claimed by Debono's people, would 
form an excellent point d'appui for operations towards the 
unknown south. 

Shooa was " flowing with milk and honey ; " fowls, 
butter, goats, were in abundance and ridiculously cheap ; 
beads were of great value, as few had ever reached that 
country. The women flocked to see Mrs. Baker, bringing 
presents of milk and flour, and receiving beads and 
bracelets in return. The people were precisely the same 
as those of Obbo and Farajoke in language and appearance, 
exceedingly mild in their manner, and anxious to be on 
good terms. 

The cultivation in this country was superior to anything 
that I had seen farther north ; large quantities of sesame 
were grown and carefully harvested, the crop being 
gathered and arranged in oblong frames about twenty feet 
long by twelve high. These were inclined at an angle of 
about sixty — the pods of the sesame" plants on one face, so 
that the frames resembled enormous brushes. In this 
manner the crop was dried previous to being stored in the 
granaries. Of the latter there were two kinds — the wicker- 
work smeared with cow-dung, supported on four posts, 
with a thatched roof ; and a simple contrivance by fixing 
a stout pole about twenty feet long perpendicularly in the 
earth. About four feet from the ground a bundle of strong 
and long reeds are tied tightly round the pole ; hoops of 
wicker-work are then bound round them at intervals until 
they assume the form of an inverted umbrella half ex- 
panded ; this being filled with grain, fresh reeds are added, 
until the work has extended to within a few feet of the 
top of the pole ; the whole is then capped with reeds 
securely strapped : the entire granary has the appearance 
of a cigar, but thicker in proportion about the middle. 

Two days after our arrival at Shooa, the whole of our 



Chap. X.] " WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS." 263 

Obbo porters absconded: they had heard that we were 
bound for Kainrasi's country, and having received ex- 
aggerated accounts of his power from the Shooa people, 
they had determined upon retreat : thus we were at once 
unable to proceed, unless we could procure porters from 
Shooa. This was exceedingly difficult, as Kamrasi was 
well known here, and vras not loved. His country was 
known as " Quanda," and I at once recognised the 
corruption of Speke's " Uganda." The slave woman, 
" Bacheeta," who had formerly given me in Obbo so much 
information concerning Kamrasi's country, was to be our 
interpreter; but we also had the luck to discover a lad 
who had formerly been employed by Mahommed in 
Faloro, who also spoke the language of Quanda, and had 
learnt a little Arabic. I now discovered that the slave 
woman Bacheeta had formerly been in the service of a 
chief named Sali, who had been killed by Kamrasi. Sali 
was a friend of Eionga (Kamrasi's greatest enemy), and 
I had been warned by Speke not to set foot upon Eionga' s 
territory, or all travelling in Unyoro would be cut off. 
I plainly saw that Bacheeta was in favour of Eionga, as 
a friend of the murdered Sali, by whom she had had two 
children, and that she would most likely tamper with the 
guide, and that we should be led to Eionga instead of to 
Kamrasi. There were " wheels within wheels." It was 
now reported that in the past year, immediately after 
the departure of Speke and Grant from Gondokoro, when 
Debono's people had left me in the manner already de- 
scribed, they had marched direct to Eionga, allied them- 
selves to him, crossed the Nile with his people, and had 
attacked Kamrasi's country, killing about three hundred 
of his men, and capturing many slaves. I now under- 
stood why they had deceived me at Gondokoro; they 
had obtained information of the country from Speke's 
people, and had made use of it by immediately attacking 
Kamrasi in conjunction with Eionga. 

This would be a pleasant introduction for me on enter- 
ing Unyoro, as almost immediately after the departure 
of Speke and Grant, Kamrasi had been invaded by the 



264 DEPARTURE FROM SHOOA. [Chap. X. 

very people into whose hands his messengers had delivered 
them, when they were guided from Unyoro to the Turks' 
station at Faloro ; he would naturally have considered that 
the ; Turks had been sent by Speke to attack him ; thus 
the road appeared closed to all exploration, through the 
atrocities of Debono's people. 

Many of Ibrahim's men, at hearing this intelligence, re- 
fused to proceed to Unyoro. Fortunately for me, Ibrahim 
had been extremely unlucky in procuring ivory ; the year 
had almost passed away, and he had a mere nothing with 
which to return to Gondokoro. I impressed upon him how 
enraged Koorshid would be should he return with such a 
trifle ; already his own men declared that he was neglect- 
ing razzias, because he was to receive a present from me if 
we reached Unyoro ; this they would report to his master 
(Koorshid), and it would be believed should he fail in 
securing ivory. I guaranteed him 100 cantars (10,000 lbs.) 
if he would push on at all hazards with me to Kamrasi, 
and secure me porters from Shooa. Ibrahim behaved re- 
markably well. For some time past I had acquired a great 
influence over him, and he depended so thoroughly upon 
my opinion that he declared himself ready to do all that 
I suggested. Accordingly I desired him to call his men 
together, and to leave in Shooa all those who were 
disinclined to follow us. 

At once I arranged for a start, lest some fresh idea 
should enter the ever-suspicious brains of our followers, 
and mar the expedition. 

It was difficult to procure porters, and I abandoned all 
that was not indispensable — our last few pounds of rice 
and coffee, and even the great sponging-bath, that emblem 
of civilization that had been clung to even when the tent 
had been left behind. 

On the 18th January, 1864, we left Shooa. The pure 
air of that country had invigorated us, and I was so im- 
proved in strength, that I enjoyed the excitement of the 
launch into unknown lands. The Turks knew nothing 
of the route south, and I accordingly took the lead of the 
entire party. I had come to a distinct understanding 



Chap. X.] FATIKO LEVEE. 265 

with Ibrahim that Kamrasi's country should belong to 
me ; not an act of felony would be permitted ; all were 
to be under my government, and I would insure him at 
least 100 cantars of tusks. 

Eight miles of agreeable march through the usual park- 
like country brought us to the village of Fatiko, situated 
upon a splendid plateau of rock upon elevated ground 
with beautiful granite cliffs, bordering a level table-land of 
fine grass that would have formed a racecourse. The high 
rocks were covered with natives, perched upon the outline 
like a flock of ravens. 

"We halted to rest under some fine trees growing among 
large isolated blocks of granite and gneiss. 

In a short time the natives assembled around us : they 
were wonderfully friendly, and insisted upon a personal 
introduction to both myself and Mrs. Baker. We were 
thus compelled to hold a levee ; not the passive and cold 
ceremony of Europe, but a most active undertaking, as 
each native that was introduced performed the salaam of 
his country, by seizing both my hands and raising my 
arms three times to their full stretch above my head. 
After about one hundred Eatikos had been thus gratified 
by our submission to this infliction, and our arms had 
been subjected to at least three hundred stretches each, 
I gave the order to saddle the oxen immediately, and 
we escaped a further proof of Fatiko affection that was 
already preparing, as masses of natives were streaming 
down the rocks hurrying to be introduced. Notwith- 
standing the fatigue of the ceremony, I took a great fancy 
to these poor people: they had prepared a quantity of 
merissa and a sheep for our lunch, which they begged 
us to remain and enjoy before we started ; but the pump- 
ing action of half a village not yet gratified by a pre- 
sentation was too much ; and, mounting our oxen, with 
aching shoulders we bade adieu to Fatiko. 

Descending the picturesque rocky hill of Fatiko, we 
entered upon a totally distinct country. We had now 
before us an interminable sea of prairies, covering to the 
horizon a series of gentle undulations inclining from east 



266 FIRE THE PRAIRIES. [Chap. X. 

to west. There were no trees except the dolape palms ; 
these were scattered at long intervals in the bright yellow 
surface of high grass. The path was narrow, but good, 
and after an hour's march we halted for the night on the 
banks of a deep and clear stream, the Un-y-am^; — this 
stream is perennial, and receiving many rivulets from 
Shooa, it forms a considerable torrent during the rainy 
season, and joins the Nile in N. lat. 3° 32' at the limit 
reached by Signor Miani, 1S59, the first traveller who 
ever attained a point so far south in Nile explorations 
from Egypt. There was no wood for fires, neither dung 
of animals ; thus without fuel we went supperless to bed. 
Although the sun was painfully hot during the day, the 
nights were so cold (about 55° Fahr.) that we could 
hardly sleep. 

For two days we marched through high dry grass, 
(about ten feet), when a clear night allowed an observa- 
tion, and the meridian altitude of Capella gave latitude 
2° 45' 37". In this interminable sea of prairie it was in- 
teresting to watch our progress south. 

On the following day our guide lost the road ; a large 
herd of elephants had obscured it by trampling hundreds 
of paths in all directions. The wind was strong from the 
north, and I proposed to clear the country to the south 
by firing the prairies. There were numerous deep swamps 
in the bottoms between the undulations, and upon arrival 
at one of -these green dells we fired the grass on the 
opposite side. In a few minutes it roared before us, and 
we enjoyed the grand sight of the boundless prairies 
blazing like infernal regions, and rapidly clearing a path 
south. Flocks of buzzards and the beautiful varieties of 
fly-catchers thronged to the dense smoke to prey upon 
the innumerable insects that endeavoured to escape from 
the approaching fire. 

In about an hour we marched over the black and 
smoking ground, every now and then meeting dead 
stumps of palm trees blazing ; until we at length reached 
another swamp. There the fire had terminated in its 
course south, being stopped by the high green reeds, and 



Chap. X.] 'DECEIT OF THE GUIDE. 267 

it was raging to the east and west. Again the tedious 
operation had to be performed, and the grass was fired in 
many places on the opposite side of the swamp, while we 
waited until the cleared way was sufficiently cool to allow 
the march. "We were perfectly black, as the wind brought 
showers of ashes that*fell like snow, but turned us into 
Ethiopians. I had led the way on foot from the hour we 
left Fatiko, as, the country being uninhabited for five 
days' march between that place and Kamrasi's, the men 
had more faith in my steering by the compass than they 
had in the native guide. I felt sure that we were being 
deceived, and that the woman Bacheeta had directed the 
guide to take us to Eionga's. Accordingly that night, 
when Canopus was in the meridian, I asked our conductor 
to point by a star the direction of ELaruma Palls. He 
immediately pointed to Canopus, which I knew by Speke's 
map should be the direction of Eionga's islands, and I 
charged him with the deceit. He appeared very much 
astonished, and asked me "why I wanted a guide if I 
knew the way ? " confessing that Karuma Falls were " a 
little to the east of the star." I thanked Speke and Grant 
at that moment, and upon many other occasions, for the 
map they had so generously given me ! It has been my 
greatest satisfaction to have completed their great dis- 
covery, and to bear testimony to the correctness of their 
map and general observations. 

The march was exceedingly fatiguing : there was a 
swamp at least every half hour during the day, at each of 
which we had the greatest difficulty in driving the oxen, 
who were above the girths in mud. One swamp was so 
deep that we had to carry the luggage piecemeal on an 
angarep by about twelve men, and my wife being sub- 
jected to the same operation was too heavy, and the people 
returned with her as impracticable. I accordingly volun- 
teered for service, and carried her on my back ; but when 
in the middle of the swamp, the tenacious bottom gave 
way, and I sank, and remained immoveably fixed, while 
she floundered frog-like in the muddy water. I was extri- 
cated by the united efforts of several men, and she was 



268 ARRIVE AT RIONGA'S COUNTRY. [Chap. X. 

landed "by being dragged through the swamp. We marched 
for upwards of ten hours per day, so great were the delays 
in crossing the morasses and in clearing off the* grass 
jungle by burning. 

On the fourth day we left the prairies, and entered a 
noble forest ; this was also so choketl with high grass that 
it was impossible to proceed without burning the country 
in advance. There had been no semblance of a path for 
some time ; and the only signs of game that we had seen 
were the tracks of elephants and a large herd of buffaloes, 
the fire having scared all wild animals from the neigh- 
bourhood. An attack of fever seized me suddenly, and 
I was obliged to lie down for four or five hours under a 
tree until the fit had passed away, when, weak and good 
for nothing, I again mounted my ox and rode on. 

On the 22d January, from an elevated position in the 
forest at sunrise, we saw a cloud of fog hanging in a 
distant valley, which betokened the presence of the 
Somerset river. The guide assured us that we should 
reach the river that day. I extract the note from my 
journal on that occasion: — 

"Marched, 6h. 20m., reaching the Somerset river, or 
Victoria White Nile. I never made so tedious a journey, 
owing to the delays of grass, streams, and deep swamps, 
but since we gained the forest these obstacles were not 
so numerous. Many tracks of elephants, rhinoceros, and 
buffaloes ; but we saw nothing. Halted about eighty feet 
above the river ; altitude above sea-level, by observation, 
3,864 ft. I went to the river to see if the other side was 
inhabited; saw two villages on an island; the natives 
came across in a canoe, bringing the brother of Rionga 
with them ; the guide, as I had feared during the journey, 
has deceived us, and taken us direct to .Rionga's country. 
On the north side the river all is uninhabited forest, full 
of buffalo and elephant pitfalls, into which three of our 
cattle have already fallen, including my beautiful riding 
ox, which is thus so sprained as to be rendered useless. 

"The natives at first supposed we were Mahommed 
Wat-el-Mek's people, but finding their mistake they would 



Chap. X.] START FOR KARUMA. 269 

give no information, merely saying that the lake was not far 
from here. They said 'they were friends of Mahommed's 
people who attacked Kamrasi, and Kionga being his enemy 
became their ally.' I must now be very careful, lest the 
news should reach Kamrasi that I am in Eionga's country, 
which would cut off all chance of travelling in Unyoro. 

"The slave woman, Bacheeta, secretly instructed the 
guide to lead us to Eionga instead of to Kamrasi, pre- 
cisely as I had suspected. The Karuma Falls are a day's 
march east of this, at which point we must cross the river. 
Obtained a clear observation of Capella, meridian altitude 
showing latitude 2° 18' K" 

We could get no supplies from Eionga's people, who 
returned to their island after their conference with 
Bacheeta, promising to send us some plantains and a 
basket of flour ; but upon gaining their secure retreat 
they shouted, " that we might go to Kamrasi if we liked, 
but that we should receive no assistance from them." 

Early in the morning we started for Karuma. This 
part of the forest was perfectly open, as the grass had 
been burnt by the natives about three weeks ago, and the 
young shoots of the vines were appearing from the 
scorched roots ; among other plants was an abundance 
of the prickly asparagus, of which I collected a basketful. 
Nothing could exceed the beauty of the march. Our 
course through the noble forest was parallel with the 
river, that roared beneath us on our right in a succession 
of rapids and falls between high cliffs covered with 
groves of bananas and varieties of palms, including the 
graceful wild date — the certain sign of either marsh or 
river. The Victoria Nile or Somerset river was about 150 
yards wide ; the cliffs on the south side were higher than 
those upon the north, being about 150 feet above the 
river. These heights were thronged with natives, who had 
collected from the numerous villages that ornamented the 
cliffs situated among groves of plantains ; they were 
armed with spears and shields ; the population ran parallel 
to our line of march, shouting and gesticulating as though 
daring us to cross the river. 



270 WELCOME BY KAMRISFS PEOPLE. [Chap. X 

After a most enjoyable march through the exciting scene 
of the glorious river crashing over innumerable falls — and 
in many places ornamented with rocky islands, upon which 
were villages and plantain groves — we at length approached 
the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada above the 
ferry. The heights were crowded with natives, and a 
canoe was sent across to within parleying distance of our 
side, as the roar of the rapids prevented our voices from 
being heard except at a short distance. Bacheeta now 
explained, that ' Speke's brother had arrived from his 
country to pay Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him 
valuable presents." 

" Why has he brought so many men with him ? " 
inquired the people from the canoe. 

" There are so many presents for the M'Kamma (King) 
that he has many men to carry them," shouted Bacheeta. 

" Let us look at him ! " cried the headman in the boat : 
having prepared for the introduction by changing my 
clothes in a grove of plantains for my dressing-room, and 
altering my costume to a tweed suit, something similar to 
that worn by Speke, I climbed up a high and almost 
perpendicular rock that formed a natural pinnacle on the 
face of the cliff, and, waving my cap to the crowd on the 
opposite side, I looked almost as imposing as Nelson in 
Trafalgar Square. 

I instructed Bacheeta, who climbed up the giddy height 
after me, to shout to the people that an English lady, my 
wife, had also arrived, and that we wished immediately to 
be presented to the king and his family, as we had come to 
thank him for his kind treatment of Speke and Grant, 
who had arrived safe in their own country. Upon this 
being explained and repeated several times, the canoe 
approached the shore. 

I ordered all our people to retire, and to conceal them- 
selves among the plantains, that the natives might not be 
startled by so imposing a force, while Mrs. Baker and I 
advanced alone to meet Kamrasi's people, who were men 
of some importance. Upon landing through the high 
reeds, they immediately recognized the similarity of my 



Chap. X.] PASSAGE OF THE RIVER FORBIDDEN. 271 

beard and general complexion to that of Speke ; and their 
welcome was at once displayed by the most extravagant 
dancing and gesticulating with lances and shields, as 
though intending to attack, rushing at me with the points 
of their lances thrust close to my face, and shouting and 
singing in great excitement. 

I made each of them a present of a bead necklace, and 
explained to them my wish that there should be no delay 
in my presentation to Kamrasi, as Speke had complained 
that he had been kept waiting fifteen days before the king 
had condescended to see him ; that, if this occurred, no 
Englishman would ever visit him, as such a reception 
would be considered an insult. The headman replied 
that he felt sure I was not an impostor; but that very 
shortly after the departure of Speke and Grant in the 
previous year, a number of people had arrived in their 
name, introducing themselves as their greatest friends : 
they had been ferried across the river, and well received 
by Kamrasi's orders, and had been presented with ivory, 
slaves, and leopard skins, as tokens of friendship ; but 
they had departed, and suddenly returned with Eionga's 
people, and had attacked the village an which they had 
been so well received ; and upon the country being 
assembled to resist them, about three hundred of Kamrasi's 
men had been killed in the fight. The king had therefore 
given orders that, upon pain of death, no stranger should 
cross the river. He continued : that when they saw our 
people marching along the bank of the river, they imagined 
them to be the same party that had attacked them 
formerly, and they were prepared to resist them, and had 
sent on a messenger to Kamrasi, who was three days' 
march from Karuma, at his capital M'rooli ; until they 
received a reply, it would be impossible to allow us to 
enter the country. He promised to despatch another 
messenger immediately to inform the king who we were, 
but that we must certainly wait until his return. I 
explained that we had nothing to eat, and that it would be 
very inconvenient to remain in such a spot ; that I con- 
sidered the suspicion displayed was exceedingly unfair, as 



272 THE NATIVES' BREAD OF KAMRASI. [Chap. X. 

they must see that my wife and I were white people like 
Speke and Grant, whereas those who had deceived them 
were of a totally different race, all being either black or 
brown. 

I told him that it did not mnch matter ; that I had very 
beautiful presents intended for Kamrasi; but that another 
great king would be only too glad to accept them, without 
throwing obstacles in my way. I should accordingly 
return with my presents. 

At the same time I ordered a handsome Persian carpet, 
about fifteen feet square, to be displayed as one of the 
presents intended for the king. The gorgeous colours, as 
the carpet was unfolded, produced a general exclamation : 
before the effect of astonishment wore off, I had a basket 
unpacked, and displayed upon a cloth a heap of superb 
necklaces, that we had prepared while at Obbo, of the 
choicest beads, many as large as marbles, and glittering 
with every colour of the rainbow. The garden of jewels 
of Aladdin's wonderful lamp could not have produced more 
enticing fruit. Beads were extremely rare in Kamrasi's 
land ; the few that existed had arrived from Zanzibar, and 
all that I exhibited were entirely new varieties. I ex- 
plained that I had many other presents, but that it was 
not necessary to unpack them, as we were about to return 
with them to visit another king, who lived some days' 
journey distant. " Don't go ; don't go away," said the 

headman and his companions. " Kamrasi will ." 

Here an unmistakeable pantomimic action explained their 
meaning better than words ; throwing their heads well 
back, they sawed across their throats with their forefingers, 
making horrible grimaces, indicative of the cutting of 
throats. I could not resist laughing at the terror that 
my threat of returning with the presents had created ; 
they explained, that Kamrasi would not only kill them, 
but would destroy the entire village of Atada should we 
return without visiting him, but that he would perhaps 
punish them in precisely the same manner should they 
ferry us across without special orders. "Please your- 
selves," I replied ; " if my party is not ferried across by 



Chap. X.] TREY HOLD A CONFERENCE. 273 

the time the sun reaches that spot on the heavens (point- 
ing to the position it would occupy at about 3 p.m.), I shall 
return." In a state of great excitement they promised to 
hold a conference on the other side, and to see what 
arrangements could be made. They returned to Atada, 
leaving the whole party, including Ibrahim, exceedingly 
disconcerted — having nothing to eat, an impassable river 
before them, and five days' march of uninhabited wilder- 
ness in their rear. 

Karuma Falls were about three hundred yards to our 
left as we faced Atada ; they were very insignificant, not 
exceeding five feet in height, but curiously regular, as a 
ridge of rock over which they fell extended like a wall 
across the river. The falls were exactly at the beud of the 
river, which, from that point, turned suddenly to the west. 

The whole day passed in shouting and gesticulating our 
peaceful intentions to the crowd assembled on the heights 
on the opposite side of the river, but the boat did not 
return until long after the time appointed ; even then the 
natives would only approach sufficiently near to be heard, 
but nothing would induce them to land. They explained, 
that there was a division of opinion among the people on 
the other side ; some were in favour of receiving us, but 
the greater number were of opinion that we intended 
hostilities ; therefore we must wait until orders could be 
sent from the king. 

To assure the people of our peaceful intentions, I begged 
them to take Mrs. Baker and myself alone, and to leave 
the armed party on this side of the river until a reply 
should be received from Kamrasi. At this suggestion the 
boat immediately returned to the other side. 

The day passed away, and as the sun set we perceived 
the canoe again paddling across the river; this time it 
approached direct, and the same people landed that had 
received the necklaces in the morning. They said that 
they had held a conference with the headman, and that 
they had agreed to receive my wife and myself, but no 
other person. I replied, that my servants must accompany 
us, as we were quite as great personages as Kamrasi, and 

T 



274 WE FERRY OF AT ABA, [Chap. X. 

could not possibly travel without attendants. To this 
they demurred ; therefore I dropped the subject, and pro- 
posed to load the canoe with all the presents intended for 
Kamrasi. There was no objection to this, and I ordered 
Eicharn, Saat, and Ibrahim to get into the canoe to stow 
away the luggage as it should be handed to them, but on 
no account to leave the boat. I had already prepared 
everything in readiness; and a bundle of rifles tied up 
in a large blanket, and 500 rounds of ball cartridge, were 
unconsciously received on board as 'presents. I had in- 
structed Ibrahim to accompany us as my servant, as he 
was better than most of the men in the event of a row ; 
and I had given orders, that in case of a preconcerted signal 
being given, the whole force should swim the river, sup- 
porting themselves and guns upon bundles of papyrus rush. 
The men thought us perfectly mad, and declared that we 
should be murdered immediately when on the other side ; 
however, they prepared for crossing the river in case of 
treachery. 

At the last moment, when the boat was about to leave 
the shore, two of the best men jumped in with their guns ; 
however, the natives positively refused to start ; therefore, 
to avoid suspicion, I ordered them to retire, but I left word 
that on the morrow I would send the canoe across with 
supplies, and that one or two men should endeavour to 
accompany the boat to our side on every trip. 

It was quite dark when we started. The canoe was 
formed of a large hollow tree, capable of holding twenty 
people, and the natives paddled us across the rapid current 
just below the falls. A large fire was blazing upon the 
opposite shore, on a level with the river, to guide us to the 
landing-place. Gliding through a narrow passage in the 
reeds, we touched the shore and landed upon a slippery 
rock, close to the fire, amidst a crowd of people, who 
immediately struck up a deafening welcome with horns and 
flageolets, and marched us up the steep face of the rocky 
cliff through a dark grove of bananas. Torches led the 
way, followed by a long file of spearmen ; then came the 
noisy band and ourselves — I towing my wife up the pre- 



Chap. X.] RECEPTION BY KEEDJA. 275 

cipitous path, while my few attendants followed behind 
with a number of natives who had volunteered to carry 
the luggage. 

On arrival at the top of the cliff, we were about 180 feet 
above the river, and after a walk of about a quarter of 
a mile, we were triumphantly led into the heart of the 
village, and halted in a small courtyard in front of the 
headman's residence. 

Keedja waited to receive us by a blazing fire. Not 
having had anything to eat, we were uncommonly hungry, 
and to our great delight a basketful of ripe plantains was 
presented to us; these were the first that I had seen for 
many years. A gourd bottle of plantain wine was offered, 
and immediately emptied ; it resembled extremely poor 
cider. "We were now surrounded by a mass of natives, no 
longer the naked savages to whom we had been accus- 
tomed, but well-dressed men, wearing robes of bark cloth, 
arranged in various fashions, generally like the Arab " tope," 
or the Eoman toga. Several of the headmen now explained 
to us the atrocious treachery of Debono's men, who had 
been welcomed as friends of Speke and Grant, but who 
had repaid the hospitality by plundering and massacreing 
their hosts. I assured them that no one would be more 
wroth than Speke when I should make him aware of the 
manner in which his name had been used, and that I 
should make a point of reporting the circumstance to the 
British Government. At the same time I advised them 
not to trust any but white people, should others arrive in 
my name, or in those of Speke and Grant. I upheld their 
character as that of Englishmen, and I begged them to 
state "if ever they had deceived them?" They replied, 
that " there could not be better men." I answered, " You 
must trust me, as I trust entirely in you, and have placed 
myself in your hands ; but if you have ever had cause to 
mistrust a white man, kill me at once ! — either kill me, or 
trust in me ; but let there be no suspicions." 

They seemed much pleased with the conversation, and a 
man stepped forward and showed me a small string of 
blue beads that Speke had given him for ferrying him 

T 2 



276 NATIVE CURIOSITY. [Chap. X. 

across the river. This little souvenir of my old friend wa •■, 
most interesting ; after a year's wandering and many diffi- 
culties, this was the first time that I had actually come 
upon his track. Many people told me that they had known 
Speke and Grant ; the former bore the name of " Mollegge " 
(the bearded one), while Grant had been named " Masanga " 
(the elephant's tusk), owing to his height. The latter had 
been wounded at Lucknow during the Indian mutiny, and 
I spoke to the people of the loss of his finger ; this crowned 
my success, as they knew without doubt that I had seen 
him. It was late, therefore I begged the crowd to depart, 
but to send a messenger the first thing in the morning to 
inform Kamrasi who we were, and to beg him to permit us 
to visit him without loss of time. 

A bundle of straw was laid on the ground for Mrs. 
Baker and myself, and, in lieu of other beds, the ground 
was. our resting-place. It was bitterly cold that night, as 
the guns were packed up in the large blanket, and, not 
wishing to expose them, we were contented with a Scotch 
plaid each. Ibrahim, Saat, and Eicharn watched by turns. 

On the following morning an immense crowd of natives 
thronged to see us. There was a very beautiful tree about 
a hundred yards from the village, capable of shading 
upwards of a thousand men, and I proposed that we should 
sit beneath this protection and hold a conference. The 
headman of the village gave us a large hut with a grand 
doorway of about seven feet high, of which my wife took 
possession, while I joined the crowd at the tree. There 
were about six hundred men seated respectfully on the 
ground around me, while I sat with my back to the huge 
knotty trunk, with Ibrahim and Eicharn at a few paces 
distant. 

The subject of conversation was merely a repetition of 
that of the preceding night, with the simple addition of 
some questions respecting the lake. Not a man would 
give the slightest information ; the only reply, upon my 
forcing the question, was the pantomime already described, 
by passing the forefinger across the throat, and exclaiming, 
" Kamrasi ! " The entire population was tongue-locked. 



Chap. X.] FREEMASONRY OF UNYORO. 277 

I tried the children ; to no purpose, they were all dumb. 
White-headed old men I questioned as to the distance of 
the lake from this point : they replied, " We are children, 
ask the old people who know the country." Never was 
freemasonry more secret than the land of Unyoro. It was 
useless to persevere. I therefore changed the subject by 
saying that our people were starving on the other side, and 
that provisions must be sent immediately. In all savage 
countries the most trifling demand requires much talking. 
They said that provisions were scarce, and that until 
Kamrasi should give the order, they could give no supplies. 
Understanding most thoroughly the natural instincts of 
the natives, I told them that I must send the canoe across 
to fetch three oxen that I wished to slaughter. The bait 
took at once, and several men ran for the canoe, and we 
sent one of our black women across with a message to the 
people »that three men, with their guns and ammunition, 
were to accompany the canoe and guide three oxen across 
by swimming them with ropes tied to their horns. These 
were the riding oxen of some of the men that it was neces- 
sary to slaughter, to exchange the flesh for flour and other 
supplies. 

Hardly had the few boatmen departed, than some one 
shouted suddenly, and the entire crowd sprang to their feet 
and rushed towards the hut where I had left Mrs. Baker. 
For the moment I thought that the hut was on fire, and I 
joined the crowd and arrived at the doorway, where I found 
a tremendous press to see some extraordinary sight. Every 
one was squeezing for the best place ; and, driving them 
on one side, I found the wonder that had excited their 
curiosity. The hut being very dark, my wife had employed 
her solitude during my conference with the natives in 
dressing her hair at the doorway, which, being very long 
and blonde, was suddenly noticed by some natives — a 
shout was given, the rush described had taken place, and 
the hut was literally mobbed by the crowd of savages 
eager to see the extraordinary novelty. The Gorilla would 
not make a greater stir in London streets than we appeared 
to create at Atada. 



278 COMPARATIVE CIVILIZATION OF UNTOROS. [Chap. X. 

The oxen shortly arrived ; one was immediately killed, 
and the flesh divided into numerous small portions arranged 
upon the hide. 

Blonde hair and white people immediately lost their 
attractions, and the crowd turned their attention to beef — 
we gave them to understand that we required flour, beans, 
and sweet potatoes in exchange. 

The market soon went briskly, and whole rows of girls 
and women arrived, bringing baskets filled with the desired 
provisions. The women were neatly dressed in short 
petticoats with a double skirt — many exposed the bosom, 
while others wore a piece of bark cloth arranged as a plaid 
across the chest and shoulders. This cloth is the produce 
of a species of fig-tree, the bark of which is stripped off 
in large pieces and then soaked in water and beaten with 
a mallet : in appearance it much resembles corduroy, and 
is the colour of tanned leather; the finer qualities are 
peculiarly soft to the touch, as though of woven cotton. 
Every garden is full of this species of tree, as their cultiva- 
tion is necessary for the supply of clothing ; when a man 
takes a wife he plants a certain number of trees, that are 
to be the tailors of the expected family. 

The market being closed, the canoe was laden with pro- 
visions', and sent across to our hungry people on the other 
side the river. 

The difference between the Unyoro people and the 
tribes we had hitherto seen was most striking. On the 
north side of the river the natives were either stark naked, 
or wore a mere apology for clothing in the shape of a skin 
slung across their shoulders : the river appeared to be the 
limit of utter savagedom, and the people of Unyoro con- 
sidered the indecency of nakedness precisely in the same 
light as among Europeans. 

The northern district of Unyoro at Karuma is called 
Chopi, the language being the same as the Madi, and dif- 
ferent to the southern and central portions of the kingdom. 
The people are distinct in their type, but they have the 
woolly hair of negroes, like all other tribes of the White 
Nile. 



Chap. X.] NATIVE POTTERY. 279 

By astronomical observation I determined the latitude 
of Atada at Karuma Falls, 2° 15'; and by Casella's ther- 
mometer, the altitude of the river level above the sea 
3,996 feet. 

After the disgusting naked tribes that we had been 
travelling amongst for more than twelve months, it was a 
delightful change to find ourselves in comparative civiliza- 
tion : this was evinced not only in the decency of clothing, 
but also in the manufactures of the country. The black- 
smiths were exceedingly clever, and used iron hammers 
instead of stone; they drew fine wire from the thick 
copper and brass wire that they received from Zanzibar ; 
their bellows were the same as those used by the more 
savage tribes — but the greatest proof of their superior 
civilization was exhibited in their pottery. 

Nearly all savages have some idea of earthenware ; but 
the scale of advancement of a country between savagedom 
and civilization may generally be determined by the ex- 
ample of its pottery. The Chinese, who were as civilized 
as they are at the present day at a period when the English 
were barbarians, were ever celebrated for the manufacture 
of porcelain, and the difference between savages and civi- 
lized countries is always thus exemplified ; the savage 
makes earthenware, but the civilized make porcelain — thus 
the gradations from the rudest earthenware will mark the 
improvement in the scale of civilization. The prime 
utensil of the African savage is the gourd ; the shell of 
which is the bowl presented to him by nature as the first 
idea from which he is to model. Nature, adapting herself 
to the requirements of animals and man, appears in these 
savage countries to yield abundantly much that savage 
man can want. Gourds with exceedingly strong shells 
not only grow wild, which if divided in halves afford 
bowls, but great and quaint varieties form natural bottles 
of all sizes, from the tiny phial to the demi-john contain- 
ing five gallons. The most savage tribes content them- 
selves with the productions of nature, confining their 
manufacture to a coarse and half-baked jar for carrying 
water ; but the semi-savage, like those of Unyoro, affords 



280 GREJT MEN NEVER HURRY TO PAY VISITS. [Chap X. 

an example of the first step towards manufacturing art, 
by the fact of copying from nature : the utter savage 
makes use of nature — the gourd is his utensil ; and the 
more advanced natives of Unyoro adopt it as the model 
for their pottery. They make a fine quality of jet black 
earthenware, producing excellent tobacco-pipes most 
finely worked in imitation of the small egg-shaped gourd ; 
of the same earthenware they make extremely pretty 
bowls, and also bottles copied from the varieties of the 
bottle gourds : thus, in this humble art, we see the 
first effort of the human mind in manufactures, in 
taking nature for a model; precisely as the beautiful 
Corinthian capital originated in a design from a basket 
of flowers. 

A few extracts from my journal will describe the delay 
at Atada : — 

"Jan. 26th, 1864. — The huts are very large, about 20 
feet in diameter, made entirely of reeds and straw, and 
very lofty, looking in the interior like huge inverted 
baskets, bee-hive shaped, very different to the dog-kennels 
of the more northern tribes. We received a message 
to-day that we were not to expect Kamrasi, as * great men 
were never in a hurry to pay visits.' None of the prin- 
cipal -chiefs have yet appeared. Kidgwiga is expected 
to-day ; but people are flocking in from the country to see 
the white lady. It is very trying to the patience to wait 
here until it pleases these almighty niggers to permit eur 
people to cross the river." 

" Jan. 27th. — Time passing fruitlessly while every day 
is valuable. The rains will, I fear, commence before my 
work is completed ; and the Asua river, if flooded, will 
cut off my return to Gondokoro. In this district there is 
a large population and extensive cultivation. There are 
many trees resembling the Vacoua of Mauritius, but the 
leaves are of a different texture, producing a species of 
flax. Every day there is a report that the headman, sent 
by Kamrasi, is on the road ; but I see no signs of him." 

"Jan. 28th. — Eeports brought that Kamrasi has sent 
his headman with a large force, including some of Speke's 



Chap.X.] PRONOUNCED TO BE SPEKE'S BROTHER. 281 

deserters. They are to inspect me, and report whether I 
am really a white man and an Englishman. If so, I be- 
lieve we are to proceed ; if not, I suppose we are to be 
exterminated. Lest there should be any mistake I have 
taken all necessary precautions ; but, having only eight 
men on this side the river, I shall be certain to lose my 
baggage in the event of a disturbance, as no one could 
transport it to the canoe." 

"Jan. 29th. — Plantains, sweet potatoes, and eggs sup- 
plied in great quantities. The natives are much amused 
at our trying the eggs in water before purchase. Plan- 
tains, three for one small bead. The headman is expected 
to-day. A polite message arrived last night from Kamrasi 
inviting us to his capital, and apologizing for being unable 
to come in person. This morning the force, sent by Kam- 
rasi, is reported to be within an hour's march of Atada. 

" In mid-day the headman arrived with a great number 
of men, accompanied by three of Speke's deserters, one of 
whom has been created a chief by Kamrasi, and presented 
with two wives. 

" I received them standing ; and after thorough inspec- 
tion I was pronounced to be ' Speke's own brother,' and 
all were satisfied. However, the business was not yet 
over : plenty of talk, and another delay of four days, was 
declared necessary until the king should reply to the satis- 
factory message about to be sent. Losing all patience, I 
stormed, declaring Kamrasi to be mere dust ; while a white 
man was a king in comparison. I ordered all my luggage 
to be conveyed immediately to the canoe, and declared 
that I would return immediately to my own country ; that 
I did not wish to see any one so utterly devoid of manners 
as Kamrasi, and that no other white man would ever visit 
his kingdom. 

" The effect was magical ! I rose hastily to depart. 
The chiefs implored, declaring that Kamrasi would kill 
them all if I retreated : to prevent which misfortune they 
secretly instructed the canoe to be removed. I was in a 
great rage ; and about 400 natives, who were present, scat- 
tered iu all quarters, thinking that there would be a serious 



282 NEATNESS OF THE NATIVES IN PACKING. [Chap. X. 

quarrel. I told the chiefs that nothing should stop me, 
aud that I would seize the canoe by force unless my whole 
party should be brought over from the opposite side that 
instant. This was agreed upon. One of Ibrahim's men 
exchanged and drank blood from the arm of Speke's 
deserter, who was Kamrasi's representative; and peace 
thus firmly established, several canoes were at once em- 
ployed, and sixty of our men were brought across the river 
before sunset. The natives had nevertheless taken the pre- 
caution to send all their women away from the village." 
" Jan. 30th. — This morning all remaining men and bag- 

o o o 

gage were brought across the river, and supplies were 
brought in large quantities for sale. We are to march 
to-morrow direct to Kamrasi's capital; they say he will 
give me a guide to the lake. 

" The natives of this country are particularly neat in all 
they do ; they never bring anything to sell unless carefully 
packed in the neatest parcels, generally formed of the bark 
of the plantain, and sometimes of the inner portions of 
reeds stripped into snow-white stalks, which are bound 
round the parcels with the utmost care. Should the plan- 
tain cider, ' rnaroua,' be brought in a jar, the mouth is 
neatly covered with a fringe-like mat of these clean white 
rushes split into shreds. Not even tobacco is brought for 
sale unless most carefully packed. During a journey, a 
pretty, bottle-shaped, long-necked gourd is carried with a 
store of plantain cider : the mouth of the bottle is stopped 
with a bundle of the white rush shreds, through which a 
reed is inserted that reaches to the bottom : thus the drink 
can be sucked up during the march without the necessity 
of halting ; nor is it possible to spill it by the movement 
of walking. 

" The natives prepare the skins of goats very beautifully, 
making them as soft as chamois leather ; these they 
cut into squares, and sew together as nea,tly as would 
be effected by a European tailor, converting them into 
mantles which are prized far more highly than bark cloth.. 
on account of their durability : they manufacture their 
own needles, not by boring the eye, but by sharpening the 



Chap. X.] NATIVE MANUFACTURES. 283 

end into a fine point and turning it over, the extremity 
being hammered into a small cut in the body of the needle 
to prevent it from catching. 

" Clothes of all kinds are in great demand here, and 
would be accepted to any amount in exchange for ivory. 
Beads are extremely valuable, and would purchase ivory 
in large quantities, but the country would, in a few years, 
become overstocked. Clothes being perishable articles 
would always be in demand to supply those worn out ; 
but beads, being imperishable, very soon glut the market. 
Here is, as I had always anticipated, an opportunity for 
commencing legitimate trade." 

"Jan. Slst. — Throngs of natives arrived to carry our 
luggage, gratis by the king's orders. Started at 7 A.M. and 
inarched ten miles and a half parallel with the Mle, south ; 
the country thickly populated, and much cultivated with 
sesame\ sweet potatoes, beans, tullaboon, dhurra, Indian 
corn, and plantains. 

" The native porters relieved each other at every village, 
fresh men being always in readiness on the road. The 
river is here on a level with the country, having no high 
banks ; thus there is a great fall from Karuma towards the 
west. Halted in a grove of plantains near a village. The 
plantains of this country are much higher than those of 
Ceylon, and the stems are black, rising to 25 or 30 feet. 
The chief of the district came to meet us, and insisted upon 
our remaining at his village to-day and to-morrow to ' eat 
and drink,' or Kamrasi would kill him ; thus we are de- 
layed when time is precious. The chief's name is ' Matta- 
Goomi.' There is now no secret about the lake. Both he 
and all the natives say that the Luta N'zige lake is larger 
than the Victoria N'yamza, and that both lakes are fed by 
rivers from the great mountain Bartooma. Is that moun- 
tain the M'fumbiro of Speke ? the difference of name being 
local. According to the position of the mountain pointed 
out by the chief, it bears from this spot S. 45° W. Lati- 
tude of this place by meridian altitude of Capella, 2° 5' 32". 
F. (my wife) taken seriously ill with bilious fever." 

" Feb. 1 st. — F. dreadfully ill ; all the natives have turned 



284 SEVERE ILLNESS OF MRS. BAKER. [Chap. X. 

out of their villages, leaving their huts and gardens at our 
disposal. This is the custom of the country should the 
king give orders that a visitor is to be conducted through 
his dominions. 

" The natives of Unyoro have a very superior implement 
to the molote used among the northern tribes ; it is an 
extremely powerful hoe, fitted upon a handle, similar to 
those used on the sugar estates in the West Indies, but the 
blade is heart-shaped : with these they cultivate the ground 
very deep for their beds of sweet potatoes. The tempera- 
ture during the day ranges from 80° to 84°, and at night it 
is cold, 56° tc 58° Fahr. It is very unhealthy, owing to 
the proximity of the river." 

" Feb. 2d. — Marched five miles. F. carried in a litter, 
very ill. I fell ill likewise. Halted." 

"Feb. 3d. — F. very ill. Carried her four miles and 
halted." 

" Feb. Mh. — F. most seriously ill. Started at 7.30 A.M. 
she being carried in a litter ; but I also fell ill upon the 
road, and having been held on my ox by two men for 
some time, I at length fell in their arms, and was laid 
under a tree for about five hours : getting better, I rode for 
two hours, course south. Mountains in view to south and 
south-east, about ten miles distant. The country, forest 
interspersed with villages : the Somerset generally parallel 
to the route. There are no tamarinds in this neighbour- 
hood, nor any other acid fruit ; thus one is sorely pressed 
in the hours of fever. One of the black women servants, 
Fadeela, is dying of fever." 

" Feb. 5th. — F. (Mrs. Baker) so ill, that even the litter is 
too much for her. Heaven help us in this country ! The 
altitude of the river level above the sea at this point is 
4,056 feet." 

" Feb. &h.—F. slightly better. Started at 7 a.m. The 
country the same as usual. Halted at a village after a 
short march of three miles and a half. Here we are 
detained for a day while a message is sent to Kamrasi. 
To-morrow, I believe, we are to arrive at the capital of the 
tyrant. He sent me a message to-day, that the houses he 



Chap. X.] MARCH TO TEE CAPITAL. 285 

had prepared for me had been destroyed by fire, and to 
beg me to wait until he should have completed others. 
The truth is, he is afraid of our large party, and he delays 
us in every manner possible, in order to receive daily 
reports of our behaviour on the road. Latitude by ob- 
servation at this point, 1° 50' 47" K" 

"Feb. 7 th. — Detained here for a day. I never saw 
natives so filthy in their dwellings as the people of Unyoro. 
Goats and fowls share. the hut with the owner, which, 
being littered down with straw, is a mere cattle-shed, 
redolent of man and beast. The natives sleep upon a 
mass of straw, upon a raised platform, this at night being 
covered with a dressed skin. Yesterday the natives brought 
coffee in small quantities to sell. They have no idea of 
using it as a drink, but simply chew it raw as a stimulant. 
It is a small and finely-shaped grain, with a good flavour. 
It is brought from the country of Utumbi, about a degree 
south of this spot." 

" Feb. 8th. — Marched eight miles due south. The river 
makes a long bend to E.N.E., and this morning's march 
formed the chord of the arc. Halted ; again delayed for 
the day, as we are not far from the capital, and a mes- 
senger must be sent to the king for instructions before we 
proceed. I never saw such abject cowardice as the re- 
doubted Kamrasi exhibits. Debono's vakeel having made 
a razzia upon his frontier has so cowed him, that he has 
now left his residence, and retreated to the other side of a 
river, from which point he sends false messages to delay 
our advance as much as possible. There is a total absence 
of dignity in his behaviour ; no great man is sent to 
parley, but the king receives contradictory reports from 
the many-tongued natives that have utterly perplexed 
him. He is told by some that we are the same people 
that came with Eas-Galla (Debono's captain), and he has 
neither the courage to repel or to receive us. Our force of 
112 armed men could eat the country in the event of a 
fight, provided that a large supply of ammunition were at 
hand. The present store is sixty rounds for each man, 
which would not be sufficient." 



286 ARRIVE AT LAST AT THE CAPITAL. [Chap. X. 

" Feb. 9 th. — After endless discussions and repeated mes- 
sages exchanged with the king, he at length sent word 
that I was to come alone. To this I objected ; and, upon 
my starting with my men, the guide refused to proceed. 
I at once turned back, and told the chief (our guide) that 
I no longer wished to see Kamrasi, who must be a mere 
fool, and I should return to my country. This created a 
great stir, and messengers were at once despatched to the 
king, who returned an answer that I might bring all my 
men, but that only five of the Turks could be allowed with 
Ibrahim. The woman Bacheeta had told the natives that 
we were separate parties. 

" A severe attack of fever prevented me from starting. 
This terrible complaint worries me sadly, as I have no 
quinine." 

" Feb. 10 th. — The woman Fadeela died of fever. I am 
rather better, and the chief is already here to escort us to 
Kamrasi. After a quick march of three hours through 
immense woods, we reached the capital — a large village of 
grass huts, situated on a barren slope. We were ferried 
across a river in large canoes, capable of carrying fifty 
men, but formed of a single tree upwards of four feet 
wide. Kamrasi was reported to be in his residence on the 
opposite side ; but, upon our arrival at the south bank, we 
found ourselves thoroughly deceived. We were upon a 
miserable flat, level with the river, and in the wet season 
forming a marsh at the junction with the Kafoor river 
with the Somerset. The latter river bounded the fiat on 
the east, very wide and sluggish, and much overgrown 
with papyrus and lotus. The river we had just crossed 
was the Kafoor; it was perfectly dead water, and about 
eighty yards wide, including the beds of papyrus on either 
side. We were shown some filthy huts that were to form 
our camp. The spot was swarming with mosquitoes, and 
we had nothing to eat except a few fowls that I had 
brought with me. Kamrasi was on the other side of the 
river : they had cunningly separated us from him, and 
had returned with the canoes. Thus we were prisoners 
upon the swamp. This was our welcome from the King 



Chap. X.] IMPRISONED ON THE MARSH. 287 

of Unyoro ! I now heard that Speke and Grant had been 
lodged in this same spot." 

"Feb. 10th. — Ibrahim was extremely nervous, as were 
also my men ; they declared that treachery was intended, 
as the boats had been withdrawn, and they proposed that 
we should swim the river and march back to our main 
party, who had been left three hours in the rear. I was 
ill with fever, also my wife, and the unwholesome air of 
the marsh aggravated the disease. Our luggage had been 
left at our last station, as this was a condition stipulated 
by Kamrasi : thus we had to sleep upon the damp ground 
of the marsh in the filthy hut, as the heavy dew at night 
necessitated shelter. With great difficulty I accompanied 
Ibrahim and a few men to the bank of the river where we 
had landed yesterday, and, climbing upon a white ant hill 
to obtain a view over the high reeds, I scanned the village 
with a telescope. The scene was rather exciting ; crowds 
of people were rushing about in all directions, and gather- 
ing from all quarters towards the river : the slope from the 
river to the town M'rooli was black with natives, and I 
saw about a dozen large canoes preparing to transport 
them to our side. I returned from my elevated obser- 
vatory to Ibrahim, who, on the low ground only a few 
yards distant, could not see the opposite side of the river 
owing to the high grass and reeds. Without saying more, 
I merely begged him to mount upon the ant hill and look 
towards M'rooli. Hardly had he cast a glance at the 
scene described, than he jumped down from his stand, 
and cried, ' They are going to attack us ! ' ' Let us retreat 
to the camp and prepare for a fight!' 'Let us fire at 
them from here as they cross in the canoes,' cried others ; 
'the buckshot will clear them off when packed in the 
boats.' This my panic-stricken followers would have done, 
had I not been present. 

"'Fools !' I said, ' do you not see that the natives have 
no shields with them, but merely lances? — would they 
commence an attack without their shields ? Kamrasi is 
coming in state to visit us.' This idea was by no means 
accepted by my people, and we reached our little camp, 



288 KAMRASI MAKES A STATE VISIT. [Chap. X. 

and for the sake of precaution we stationed the men in 
positions behind a hedge of thorns. Ibrahim had managed 
to bring twelve picked men instead of five as stipulated ; 
thus we were a party of twenty-four. I was of very little 
use, as the fever was so strong upon me that I lay helpless 
on the ground." 

In a short time the canoes arrived, and for about an 
hour they were employed in crossing and re-crossing, and 
landing great numbers of men, until they at length ad- 
vanced and took possession of some huts about 200 yards 
from our camp. They now hallooed out that Kamrasi 
had arrived ! and seeing some oxen with the party, I felt 
sure they had no evil intentions. I ordered my men to 
carry me in their arms to the king, and to accompany me 
with the presents, as I was determined to have a personal 
interview, although only fit for a hospital. 

Upon my approach, the crowd gave way, and I was 
shortly laid on a mat at the king's feet. He was a fine- 
looking man, but with a peculiar expression of coun- 
tenance, owing to his extremely prominent eyes ; he was 
about six feet high, beautifully clean, and was dressed in 
a long robe of bark cloth most gracefully folded. The 
nails of his hands and feet were carefully attended, and 
his complexion was about as dark a brown as that of an 
Abyssinian. He sat upon a copper stool placed upon a 
carpet of leopard skins, and he was surrounded by about 
ten of his principal chiefs. 

Our interpreter, Bacheeta, now informed him who I 
was, and what were my intentions. He said that he was 
sorry I had been so long on the road, but that he had 
been obliged to be cautious, having been deceived by 
Debono's people. I replied, that I was an Englishman, a 
friend of Speke and Grant — that they had described the 
reception they had met with from him, and that I had 
come to thank him, and to offer him a few presents in 
return for his kindness, and to request him to give me a 
guide to the Lake Luta N'zige. He laughed at the name, 
and repeated it several times with his chiefs, — he then 
said, it was not Luta, but M-wootan N'zige — but that it 



Chap. X.] CONVERSATION WITH TEE KING. 289 

was six months' journey from M'rooli, and that in my weak 
condition I could not possibly reach it ; that I should die 
upon the road, and that the king of my country would 
perhaps imagine that I had been murdered, and might 
invade his territory. I replied, that I was weak with the 
toil of years in the hot countries of Africa, but that I was 
in search of the great lake, and should not return until I 
had succeeded ; that I had no king, but a powerful Queen 
who watched over all her subjects, and that no Englishman 
could be murdered with impunity ; therefore he should 
send me to the lake without delay, and there would be the 
lesser chance of my dying in his country. 

I explained that the river Nile flowed for a distance of 
two years' journey through wonderful countries, and reached 
the sea, from which many valuable articles would be sent 
to him in exchange for ivory, could I only discover the 
great lake. As a proof of this, I had brought him a few 
curiosities that I trusted he would accept, and I regretted 
that the impossibility of procuring porters had neces- 
sitated the abandonment of others that had been intended 
for him. 

I ordered the men to unpack the Persian carpet, which 
was spread upon the ground before him. I then gave him 
an Abbia (large white Cashmere mantle), a red silk netted 
sash, a pair of scarlet Turkish shoes, several pairs of socks, 
a double-barrelled gun and ammunition, and a great heap 
of first-class beads made up into gorgeous necklaces and 
girdles. He took very little notice of the presents, but 
requested that the gun might be fired off. This was done, 
to the utter confusion of the crowd, who rushed away in 
such haste, that they tumbled over each other like so many 
rabbits ; this delighted the king, who, although himself 
startled, now roared with laughter. He told me that I 
must be hungry and thirsty, therefore he hoped I would 
accept something to eat and drink: accordingly he pre- 
sented me with seventeen cows, twenty pots of sour plan- 
tain cider, and many loads of unripe plaintains. I inquired 
whether Speke had left a medicine-chest with him. He 
replied that it was a very feverish country, and that he 

U 



290 EXCHANGE BLOOD AND BECOME FRIENDS. [Chap. X. 

and his people had used all the medicine. Thus my last 
hope of quinine was cut off. I had always trusted to 
obtain a supply from the king, as Speke had told me that 
he had left a bottle with him. It was quite impossible to 
obtain any information from him, and I was carried back 
to my hut, where I found Mrs. Baker lying down with 
fever, and neither could render assistance to the other. 

On the following morning the king again appeared. I 
was better, and I had a long interview. He did not appear 
.'.to heed my questions, but he at once requested that I 
would ally myself with him, and attack his enemy, Eionga. 
I told him that I could not embroil myself in such quarrels, 
but that I had only one object, which was the lake. I 
requested that he would give Ibrahim a large quantity of 
ivory, and that on his return from Gondokoro he would 
bring him most valuable articles in exchange. He said 
that he was not sure whether "my belly was black or 
white," — by this he intended to express "evil or good 
intentions ; " but that if ifc were white I should of course 
have no objection to exchange blood with him, as a proof 
of friendship and sincerity. This was rather too strong 
a dose ! I replied that it would be impossible, as in my 
country the shedding of blood was considered a proof of 
hostility ; therefore he must accept Ibrahim as my sub- 
stitute. Accordingly the arms were bared and pricked ; as 
the blood flowed, it was licked by either party, and an 
alliance was concluded. Ibrahim agreed to act with him 
against all his enemies. It was arranged that Ibrahim 
now belonged to Kamrasi, and that henceforth our parties 
should be entirely separate. 

It rained in torrents, and our hut became so damp from 
the absorption of the marsh soil, that my feet sank in the 
muddy floor. I had fever daily at about 3 P. M. and lay 
perfectly helpless for five or six hours, until the attack 
passed off; this reduced me to extreme weakness. My 
wife suffered quite as acutely. It was a position of abject 
misery, which will be better explained by a few rough 
extracts from my journal : — 

"Feb. Ibih. — All my porters have deserted, having heard 



Chap. X.] AVARICE OF THE KING. 291 

that the lake is so far distant ; I have not one man left to 
carry my luggage. Should we not be able to cross the 
Asua river before the flood, we shall be nailed for another 
year to this abominable country, ill with fever, and without 
medicine, clothes, or supplies. 

" Feb. 17th. — Fever last night ; rain, as usual, with mud 
accompaniment. One of Kamrasi's headmen, whose tongue 
I have loosened by presents, tells me that he has been to 
the lake in ten days to purchase salt, and that a man 
loaded with salt can return in fifteen days. God knows 
the truth ! and I am pressed for time, while Kamrasi delays 
me in the most annoying manner. 

" Kamrasi came to-day; as usual, he wanted all that 
I had, and insisted upon a present of my sword, watch, and 
compass, all of which I positively refused. I told him that 
he had deceived me by saying that the lake was so distant 
as six months' journey, as I knew that it was only ten 
days. He rudely answered, ' Go, if you like ; but don't 
blame me if you can't get back : it is twenty days' march ; 
you may believe it or not, as you choose.' To my question 
as to the means of procuring porters, he gave no reply, 
except by asking for my sword, and for my beautiful little 
Fletcher rifle. 

" I retired to my hut in disgust. This afternoon a 
messenger arrived from the king with twenty-four small 
pieces of straw, cut into lengths of about four inches. 
These he laid carefully in a row, and explained that Speke 
had given that number of presents, whereas I had only 
given ten, the latter figure being carefully exemplified by 
ten pieces of straw ; he wished to know ' why I did not 
give him the same number as he had received from 
Speke ? ' This miserable, grasping, lying coward is never- 
theless a king, and the success of my expedition depends 
upon him." 

"Feb. 20th. — Cloudy, as usual; neither sun, moon, nor 
stars will show themselves. Fortunately, milk can be pro- 
cured here. I live upon butter- milk. Kamrasi came, and 
gave twenty elephants' tusks as a present to Ibrahim. 
There is a report that Debono's people, under the com- 

U2 



292 /IBRAHIM AND PARTY RETURN NORTH. [Chap. X. 

mand of Bas-Galla, are once more at Eionga's ; this has 
frightened him awfully." 

" Feb. 21st. — This morning Kamrasi was civil enough to 
allow us to quit the marsh, the mosquito-nest and fever- 
bed where we had been in durance, and we crossed to the 
other side of the Kafoor river, and quartered in M'rooli. I 
went to see him, and, after a long consultation, he promised 
to send me to the lake to-morrow. I immediately took off 
my sword and belt, and presented them to him, explaining 
that, as I was now convinced of his friendship, I had a 
pleasure in offering my sword as a proof of my amicable 
feeling, as I thus placed the weapon of self-defence in his 
hand, and I should trust to his protection. As a proof of 
the temper of the blade, I offered to cut through the 
strongest shield he c *uld produce. This delighted him 
amazingly. I now trust to be able to reach the junction 
of the Somerset with the M-wootan N'zige" at Magungo, 
and from thence to overtake Ibrahim at Shooa, and to 
hurry on to Gondokoro, where a boat will be waiting for 
me from Khartoum. 

" Ibrahim and his men marched this morning, on their 
return to Karuma, leaving me here with my little party of 
thirteen men. 

" Should I succeed in discovering the lake I shall thank 
God most sincerely. The toil, anxiety, the biting annoy- 
ances I have daily been obliged to put up with in my 
association with the Turks, added to our now constant 
ill-health, are enough to break down the constitution of an 
elephant. Every day I must give ! — to the Turks, give ! — 
to the natives, give ! If I lend anything to the Turks, it is 
an insult should I ask for its return. One hasty word 
might have upset my boat ; and now, for twelve months, 
I have had to talk, to explain, to manage, and to lead the 
brutes in this direction, like a coachman driving jibbing 
horses. Hosts of presents to Ibrahim, combined with a 
vivid description of the advantages that he would secure 
by opening a trade with Kamrasi, at length led him to 
this country, which I could not have reached without his 
aid. as it would have been impossible for me to have pro- 



Chap. X.] SULKINESS OF BACHEETA. 293 

cured porters without cattle. The porters I have always 
received from him as far as Karuma for a payment of six 
copper rings per head for every journey. I have now 
arranged that he shall leave for me thirty head of cattle at 
Shooa ; thus, should he have started for Gondokoro before 
my arrival at Shooa, I shall be able to procure porters, and 
arrive in time for the expected boat. 

" Up to this day astronomical observations have been 
impossible, a thick coat of slate colour obscuring the 
heavens. To-night I obtained a good observation of Cano- 
pus, giving latitude 1° 38' N. By Casella's thermometer I 
made the altitude of the Somerset at M'rooli 4,061 feet 
above the sea, showing a fall of 65 feet between this point 
and below the falls at Karuma in a distance of 37 miles 
of latitude. 

" Just as Ibrahim was leaving this morning I was 
obliged to secure the slave Bacheeta as interpreter, at the 
price of three double-barrelled guns to purchase her free- 
dom. I explained to her that she was now free, and that 
I wished her to act as interpreter during my stay in 
Unyoro ; and that I would then leave her in her own 
country, Chopi, on my return from the lake. Tar from 
being pleased at the change, she regretted the loss of the 
Turks, and became excessively sulky, although my wife 
decked her out with beads, and gave her a new petticoat 
to put her in a good humour." 

"Feb. 22d. — Kamrasi promised to send me porters, and 
that we should start for the lake to-day, but there is no 
sign of preparation ; thus am I delayed when every day is 
so precious. Added to this trouble, the woman that I 
have as an interpreter will not speak, being the most sulky 
individual I ever encountered. In the evening Kamrasi 
sent to say he would give a guide and porters to-morrow 
morning. It is impossible to depend upon him." 

After some delay we were at length honoured by a visit 
from Kamrasi, accompanied by a number of his people, 
and he promised that we should start on the following day. 
He pointed out a chief and a guide who were to have us 
in their charge, and who were to see that we obtained all 



294 ATTEMPT TO BARTER FOR SPEKE S RIFLE. [Chap. X. 

that we should require. He concluded, as usual, by asking 
for my watch and for a number of beads ; the latter I gave 
him, together with a quantity of ammunition for his guns. 
He showed me a beautiful double-barrelled rifle by Blis- 
sett, that Speke had given him. I wished to secure this 
to give to Speke on my return to England, as he had told 
me, when at Gondokoro, how he had been obliged to part 
with that and many other articles sorely against his will. 
I therefore offered to give him three common double- 
barrelled guns in exchange for the rifle. This he declined, 
as he was quite aware of the difference in quality. He 
then produced a large silver chronometer that he had 
received from Speke. "It was dead" he said, "and he 
wished me to repair it." This I declared to be impossible. 
He then confessed to having explained its construction, 
and the cause of the " ticking," to his people, by the aid 
of a needle, and that it had never ticked since that occa- 
sion. I regretted to see such " pearls cast before swine," 
as the rifle and chronometer in the hands of Kamrasi. 
Thus he had plundered Speke and Grant of all they 
possessed before he would allow them to proceed. 

It is the rapacity of the chiefs of the various tribes that 
renders African exploration so difficult. Each tribe wishes 
to monopolize your entire stock of valuables, without 
which the traveller would be utterly helpless. The diffi- 
culty of procuring porters limits the amount of baggage : 
thus a given supply must carry you through a certain 
period of time ; if your supply should fail, the expedition 
terminates with your power of giving. It is thus extremely 
difficult to arrange the expenditure so as to satisfy all 
parties, and still to retain a sufficient balance. Being 
utterly cut off from all communication with the world, 
there is no possibility of receiving assistance. The traveller 
depends entirely upon himself, under Providence, and must 
adapt himself and his means to circumstances. 



CHAPTER XI. 
THE START FOB TTIF LAKE. 

THE day of starting at length arrived ; the chief and 
guide appeared, and we were led to the Kafoor river, 
where canoes were in readiness to transport us to the 
south side. This was to our old quarters on the marsh. 
The direct course to the lake was west, and I fully 
expected some deception, as it was impossible to trust 
Kamrasi. I complained to the guide, and insisted upon 
his pointing out the direction of the lake, which he did, in 
its real position, west ; but he explained that we must 
follow the south bank of the Kafoor river for some days, 
as there was an impassable morass that precluded a direct 
course. This did not appear satisfactory, and the whole 
affair looked suspicious, as we had formerly been deceived 
by being led across the river in the same spot, and not 
allowed to return. We were now led along the banks of 
the Kafoor for about a mile, until we arrived at a cluster 
of huts ; here we were to wait for Kamrasi, who had 
promised to take leave of us. The sun was overpowering, 
and we dismounted from our oxen, and took shelter in a 
blacksmith's shed. In about an hour Kamrasi arrived, 
attended by a considerable number of men, and took his 
seat in our shed. I felt convinced that his visit was 
simply intended to peel the last skin from the onion. I 
had already given him nearly all that I had, but he hoped 
to extract the whole before I should depart. 

He almost immediately commenced the conversation by 
asking for a pretty yellow muslin Turkish handkerchief 
fringed with silver drops that Mrs. Baker wore upon her 
head : one of these had already been given to him, and I 
explained that this was the last remaining, and that she 
required it He " must " have it It was given. 



296 PERTINACITY OF KAMBASL [Chap. XI. 

He then demanded other handkerchiefs. We had literally 
nothing but a few most ragged towels ; he would accept 
no excuse, and insisted upon a portmanteau being un- 
packed, that he might satisfy himself by actual inspection. 
The luggage, all ready for the journey, had to be un- 
strapped and examined, and the rags were displayed in 
succession; but so wretched and uninviting was the 
exhibition of the family linen, that he simply returned 
them, and said "they did not suit him." Beads he must 
have, or I was "his enemy." A selection of the best opal 
beads was immediately given him. I rose from the stone 
upon which I was sitting, and declared that we must start 
immediately. "Don't be in a hurry," he replied; "you 
have plenty of time ; but you have not given me that watch 
you promised me." .... This was my only watch that he 
had begged for, and had been refused every day during my 
stay at M'rooli. So pertinacious a beggar I had never 
seen. I explained to him that, without the watch, my 
journey would be useless, but that I would give him all 
that I had except the watch when the exploration should 
be completed, as I should require nothing on my direct 
return to Gondokoro. At the same time, I repeated to 
him the arrangement for the journey that he had promised, 
begging him not to deceive me, as my wife and I should 
both die if we were compelled to remain another \ ear in 
this country by losing the annual boats in Gondokoro. 
The understanding was this : he was to give me porters to 
the lake, where I was to be furnished with canoes to take 
me to Magungo, which was situated at the junction of the 
Somerset. From Magungo he told me that I should see 
the Nile issuing from the lake close to the spot where the 
Somerset entered, and that the canoes should take me down 
the river, and porters should carry my effects from the 
nearest point to Shooa, and deliver me at my old station 
without delay. Should he be faithful to this engagement, 
I trusted to procure porters from Shooa, and to reach Gon- 
dokoro in time for the annual boats. I had arranged that 
a boat should be sent from Khartoum to await me at 
Gondokoro early in this year, 1864 ; but I felt sure that 



Chap. XI.] KAMRASFS INFAMOUS PROPOSAL. 297 

should I be long delayed, the boat would return without 
me, as the people would be afraid to remain alone at 
Gondokoro after the other boats had quitted. 

In our present weak state another year of Central 
Africa without quinine appeared to warrant death ; it was 
a race against time, all was untrodden ground before us, 
and the distance quite uncertain. I trembled for my wife, 
and weighed the risk of another year in this horrible 
country should we lose the boats. With the self-sacri- 
ficing devotion that she had shown in every trial, she 
implored me not to think of any risks on her account, but 
to push forward and discover the lake — that she had 
determined not to return until she had herself reached 
the " M'wootan N'zige." 

I now requested Kamrasi to allow us to take leave, as 
we had not an hour to lose. In the coolest manner he 
replied, " I will send you to the lake and to Shooa, as I 
have promised ; but, you must leave your wife with me!" 

At that moment we were surrounded by a great number 
of natives, and my suspicions of treachery at having been 
led across the Kafoor river appeared confirmed by this 
insolent demand. If this were to be the end of the expe- 
dition I resolved that it should also be the end of Kam- 
rasi, and, drawing my revolver quietly, I held it within 
two feet of his chest, and looking at him with undisguised 
contempt, I told him that if I touched the trigger, not all 
his men could save him : and that if he dared to repeat 
the insult I would shoot him on the spot. At the same 
time I explained to him that in my country such insolence 
would entail bloodshed, and that I looked upon him as 
an ignorant ox who knew no better, and that this excuse 
alone could save him. My wife, naturally indignant, had 
risen from her seat, and, maddened with the excitement of 
the moment, she made him a little speech in Arabic (not a 
word of which he understood), with a countenance almost 
as amiable as the head of Medusa. Altogether the mise 
en sc&ne utterly astonished him ; the woman Bacheeta, 
although savage, had appropriated the insult to her mis- 
tress, and she also fearlessly let fly at Kamrasi, translating 



298 EXPECTATION OF A FIGHT. [Chap. XL 

as nearly as she could the complimentary address that 
" Medusa " had just delivered. 

Whether this little coup de theatre had so impressed 
Kamrasi with British female independence that he wished 
to be off his bargain, I cannot say, but with an air of 
complete astonishment, he said, " Don't be angry ! I had 
no intention of offending you by asking for your wife ; 
I will give you , a wife, if you want one, and I thought 
you might have no objection to give me yours; it is my 
custom to give my visitors pretty wives, and I thought you 
might exchange. Don't make a fuss about it ; if you don't 
like it, there's an end of it ; I will never mention it again." 
This very practical apology I received very sternly, and 
merely insisted upon starting. He seemed rather con- 
fused at having committed himself, and to make amends 
he called his people and ordered them to carry our loads. 
His men ordered a number of women, who had assembled 
out of curiosity, to shoulder the luggage and carry it to the 
next village, where they would be relieved. I assisted my 
wife upon her ox, and with a very cold adieu to Kamrasi, 
I turned my back most gladly on M'rooli. 

The country was a .vast fiat of grass land interspersed 
with small villages and patches of sweet potatoes ; these 
were very inferior, owing to the want of drainage. For 
about two miles we continued on the banks of the Kafoor 
river ; the women who carried the luggage were straggling 
in disorder, and my few men were much scattered in their 
endeavours to collect them. We approached a consider- 
able village ; but just as we were nearing it, out rushed 
about six hundred men with lances and shields, screaming 
and yelling like so many demons. Eor the moment, I 
thought it was an attack, but almost immediately I noticed 
that women and children were mingled with the men. 
My men had not taken so cool a view of the excited 
throng that was now approaching us at full speed, bran- 
dishing their spears, and engaging with each other in 
mock combat. " There's a fight ! — there's a fight !" my 
men exclaimed ; " we are attacked ! fire at them, Hawaga." 
However, in a few seconds I persuaded them that it was 



Chap. XL] KAMBASVS SATANIC ESCORT. 299 

a mere parade, and that there was no danger. With a 
rush, like a cloud of locusts, the natives closed around us, 
dancing, gesticulating, and yelling before my ox, feigning 
to attack us with spears and shields, then engaging in 
sham fights with each other, and behaving like so many 
madmen. A very tall chief accompanied them ; and one of 
their men was suddenly knocked down, and attacked by the 
crowd with sticks and lances, and lay on the ground covered 
with blood : what his offence had been I did not hear. The 
entire crowd were most grotesquely got up, being dressed 
in either leopard or white monkey skins, with cows' tails 
strapped on behind, and antelopes' horns fitted upon their 
heads, while their chins were ornamented with false beards, 
made of the bushy ends of cows' tails sewed together. 
Altogether, I never saw a more unearthly set of creatures ; 
they were perfect illustrations of my childish ideas of 
devils — horns, tails, and all, excepting the hoofs; they 
were our escort ! furnished by Kamrasi to accompany us to 
the lake. Fortunately for all parties the Turks were not 
with us on that occasion, or the satanic escort would 
certainly have been received with a volley when they 
so rashly advanced to compliment us by their absurd 
performances. 

We marched till 7 P.M. over flat, uninteresting country, 
and then halted at a miserable village which the people 
had deserted, as they expected our arrival. The following 
morning I found much difficulty in getting our escort 
together, as they had been foraging throughout the neigh- 
bourhood ; these " devil's own " were a portion of Kam- 
rasi's troops, who considered themselves entitled to plunder 
ad libitum throughout the march; however, after some 
delay, they collected, and their tall chief approached me, 
and begged that a gun might be fired as a curiosity. The 
escort had crowded around us, and as the boy Saat was 
close to me, T ordered him to fire his gun. This was 
Saat's greatest delight, and bang went one barrel un- 
expectedly, close to the tall chief's ear. The effect was 
charming. The tall chief, thinking himself injured, 
clasped his head with both hands, and bolted through 



300 A DISAGREEABLE ESCORT. [Chap. XI. 

the crowd, which, struck with a sudden panic, rushed away 
in all directions, the " devil's own " tumbling over each 
other, and utterly scattered by the second barrel which 
Saat exultingly fired in derision as Kamrasi's warlike 
regiment dissolved before a sound. I felt quite sure, that 
in the event of a fight, one scream from the " Baby," 
with its charge of forty small bullets, would win the 
battle, if well delivered into a crowd of Kamrasi's 
troops. 

That afternoon, after a march through a most beautiful 
forest of large mimosas in full blossom, we arrived at 
the morass that had necessitated this great detour from 
our direct course to the lake. It was nearly three- 
quarters of a mile broad, and so deep, that in many places 
the oxen were obliged to swim; both Mrs. Baker and I 
were carried across on our angareps by twelve men with 
the greatest difficulty ; the guide, who waded before us to 
show the way, suddenly disappeared in a deep hole, and 
his bundle that he had carried on his head, being of 
light substance, was seen floating like a buoy upon the 
surface ; after a thorough sousing, the guide reappeared, 
and scrambled out, and we made a circuit, the men 
toiling frequently up to their necks through mud and 
water. On arrival at the opposite side we continued 
through the same beautiful forest, and slept that night 
at a deserted village, M'Baze. I obtained two observa- 
tions ; one of Capella, giving lat. 1° 24' 47" N., and of 
Canopus 1° 23' 29". 

The next day we were much annoyed by our native 
escort; instead of attending to us, they employed their 
time in capering and dancing about, screaming and gesti- 
culating, and suddenly rushing off in advance whenever 
we approached a village, which they plundered before we 
could arrive. In this manner every place was stripped ; 
nor could we procure anything to eat unless by purchasing 
it for beads from the native escort. We slept at Karche\ 
lat. 1° 19' 31" N. 

We were both ill, but were obliged to ride through the 
hottest hours of the sun, as our followers were never ready 



Chap. XI.] PASSAGE OF THE KAFOOR. 301 

to start at an early hour in the morning. The native 
escort were perfectly independent, and so utterly wild 
and savage in their manner, that they appeared more 
dangerous than the general inhabitants of the country. 
My wife was extremely anxious, since the occasion of 
Kamrasi's " proposal," as she was suspicious that so large 
an escort as three hundred men had been given for some 
treacherous purpose, and that I should perhaps be waylaid 
to enable them to steal her for the king. I had not the 
slightest fear of such an occurrence, as sentries were always 
on guard during the night, and I was well prepared during 
the day. 

On the following morning we had the usual difficulty 
in collecting porters, those of the preceding day having 
absconded, and others were recruited from distant villages 
by the native escort, who enjoyed the excuse of hunting 
for porters, as it gave them an opportunity of foraging 
throughout the neighbourhood. During this time we had 
to wait until the sun was high ; we thus lost the cool 
hours of morning, and it increased our fatigue. Having at 
length started, we arrived in the afternoon at the Kafoor 
river, at a bend from the south where it was necessary to 
cross over in our westerly course. The stream was in the 
centre of a marsh, and although deep, it was so covered 
with thickly-matted water-grass and other aquatic plants, 
that a natural floating bridge was established by a carpet of 
weeds about two feet thick : upon this waving and unsteady 
surface the men ran quickly across, sinking merely to the 
ankles, although beneath the tough vegetation there was 
deep water. It was equally impossible to ride or to be 
carried over this treacherous surface ; thus I led the way, 
and begged Mrs. Baker to follow me on foot as quickly 
as possible, precisely in my track. The river was about 
eighty yards wide, and I had scarcely completed a fourth 
of the distance and looked back to see if my wife followed 
close to me, when I was horrified to see her standing in 
one spot, and sinking gradually through the weeds, while 
her face was distorted and perfectly purple. Almost as 
soon as I perceived her, she fell, as though shot dead. 



302 MRS. BAKER RECEIVES A SUN STROKE. [Chap. XI. 

In an instant I was by her side ; and with the assistance 
of eight or ten of my men, who were fortunately close 
to me, I dragged her like a corpse through the yielding 
vegetation, and up to our waists we scrambled across to 
the other side, just keeping her head above the water: 
to have carried her would have been impossible, as we 
should all have sunk together through the weeds. I laid 
her under a tree, and bathed her head and face with water, 
as for the moment I thought she had fainted ; but she lay 
perfectly insensible, as though dead, with teeth and hands 
firmly clenched, and her eyes open, but fixed. It was a 
coup de soleil. 

Many of the porters had gone on ahead with the 
baggage; and I started off a man in haste to recall an 
angarep upon which to carry her, and also for a bag with 
a change of clothes, as we had dragged her through the 
river. It was in vain that I rubbed her heart, and the 
black women rubbed her feefc, to endeavour to restore 
animation. At length the litter came, and after changing 
her clothes, she was carried mournfully forward as a 
corpse. Constantly we had to halt and support her head, 
as a painful rattling in the throat betokened suffocation. 
At length we reached a village, and halted for the night. 

I laid her carefully in a miserable hut, and watched 
beside her. I opened her clenched teeth with a small 
wooden wedge, and inserted a wet rag, upon which I 
dropped water to moisten her tongue, which was dry as 
fur. The unfeeling brutes that composed the native 
escort were yelling and dancing as though all were well ; 
and I ordered their chief at once to return with them 
to Kamrasi, as I would travel with them no longer. At 
first they refused to return ; until at length I vowed that I 
would fire into them should they accompany us on the 
following morning. Day broke, and it was a relief to 
have got rid of the brutal escort. They had departed, and 
I had now my own men, and the guides supplied by 
Kamrasi. 

There was nothing to eat in this spot. My wife had 
never stirred since she fell by the cowp de soleil, and 



Chap. XI.] MISERY AND DISTRESS. 303 

merely respired about five times in a minute. It was 
impossible to remain ; the people would have starved. She 
was laid gently upon her litter, and we started forward on 
our funeral course. I was ill and broken-hearted, and I 
followed by her side through the long clay's march over 
wild park-lands and streams, with thick forest and deep 
marshy bottoms ; over undulating hills, and through valleys 
of tall papyrus rushes, which, as we brushed through them 
on our melancholy way, waved over the litter like the 
black plumes of a hearse. We halted at a village, and 
again the night was passed in watching. I was wet, and 
coated with mud from the swampy marsh, and shivered 
with ague ; but the cold within was greater than all. !Nb 
change had taken place; she had never moved. I had 
plenty of fat, and I made four balls of about half a pound, 
each of which would burn for three hours. A piece of a 
broken water-jar formed a lamp, several pieces of rag 
serving for wicks. So in solitude the still calm night 
passed away as I sat by her side and watched. In the 
drawn and distorted features that lay before me I could 
hardly trace the same face that for years had been my 
comfort through all the difficulties and dangers of my 
path. Was she to die ? Was so terrible a sacrifice to be 
the result of my selfish exile ? 

Again the night passed away. Once more the march. 
Though weak and ill, and for two nights without a 
moment's sleep, I felt no fatigue, but mechanically 
followed by the side of the litter as though in a dream. 
The same wild country diversified with marsh and forest. 
Again we halted. The night came, and I sat by her side 
in a miserable hut, with the feeble lamp flickering while 
she lay as in death. She had never moved a muscle since 
she fell. My people slept. I was alone, and no sound 
broke the stillness of the night. The ears ached at the 
utter silence, till the sudden wild cry of a hyena made me 
mudder as the horrible thought rushed through my brain, 
that, should she be buried in this lonely spot, the hyena 
would . . . disturb her rest. 

The morning was not far distant ; it was past four 



304 AFFLICTED WITH BRAIN FEVER. [Chap. XI. 

o'clock. I had passed the night in replacing wet cloths 
upon her head and moistening her lips, as she lay appa- 
rently lifeless on her litter. I could do nothing more ; in 
solitude and abject misery in that dark hour, in a country 
of savage heathens, thousand of miles away from a 
Christian land, I beseeched an aid above all human, 
trusting alone to Him. 

The morning broke ; my lamp had just burnt out, and, 
cramped with the night's watching, I rose from my low 
seat, and seeing that she lay in the same unaltered state, 
I went to the door of the hut to breathe one gasp of the 
fresh morning air. I was watching the first red streak 
that heralded the rising sun, when I was startled by 
the words, "Thank God," faintly uttered behind me. 
Suddenly she had awoke from her torpor, and with a heart 
overflowing I went to her bedside. Her eyes were full of 
madness ! She spoke ; but the brain was gone ! 

I will not inflict a description of the terrible trial of 
seven days of brain fever, with its attendant horrors. The 
rain poured in torrents, and day after day we were forced 
to travel, for want of provisions, not being able to remain 
in one position. Every now and then we shot a few 
guinea-fowl, but rarely ; there was no game, although the 
country was most favourable. In the forests we procured 
wild honey, but the deserted villages contained no sup- 
plies, as we were on the frontier of Uganda, and M'tese's 
people had plundered the district. For seven nights I had 
not slept, and although as weak as a reed, I had marched 
by the side of her litter. Nature could resist no longer. 
We reached a village one evening ; she had been in 
violent convulsions successively — it was all but over. I 
laid her down on her litter within a hut ; covered her with 
a, Scotch plaicl ; and I fell upon my mat insensible, worn 
out with sorrow and fatigue. My men put a new handle 
to the pickaxe that evening, and sought for a dry spot to 
dig her grave ! 



CHAPTEE XIL 

RECOVERED. 

THE sun had risen when I woke. I had slept, and, 
horrified as the idea flashed upon me that she must be 
dead, and that I had not been with her, I started up. She 
lay upon her bed, pale as marble, and with that calm 
serenity that the features assume when the cares of life no 
longer act upon the mind, and the body rests in death. 
The dreadful thought bowed me down; but as I gazed 
upon her in fear, her chest gently heaved, not with the 
convulsive throbs of fever, but naturally. She was 
asleep ; and when at a sudden noise she opened her eyes, 
they were calm and clear. She was saved ! When not a 
ray of hope remained, God alone knows what helped us. 
The gratitude of that moment I will not attempt to 
describe. 

Fortunately there were many fowls in this village ; we 
found several nests of fresh eggs in the straw which 
littered the hut ; these were most acceptable after our hard 
fare, and produced a good supply of soup. 

Having rested for two days, we again moved forward, 
Mrs. Baker being carried on a litter. We now continued 
on elevated ground, on the north side of a valley running 
from west to east, about sixteen miles broad, and exceed- 
ingly swampy. The rocks composing the ridge upon 
which we travelled due west were all gneiss and quartz, 
with occasional breaks, forming narrow valleys, all of 
which were swamps choked with immense papyrus 
rushes, that made the march very fatiguing. In one of 
these muddy bottoms one of my riding oxen that was ill, 
stuck fast, and we were obliged to abandon it, intending 
to send a number of natives to drag it out with ropes. 

X 



306 UNYORO PEOPLE GLEAN FEEDERS. [Chap. XII. 

On arrival at a village, our guide started about fifty men 
for this purpose, while we continued our journey. 

That evening we reached a village belonging to a head- 
man, and very superior to most that we had passed on the 
route from M'rooli : large sugar-canes of the blue variety 
were growing in the fields, and I had seen coffee growing 
wild in the forest in the vicinity. I was sitting at the 
door of the hut about two hours after sunset, smoking a 
pipe of excellent tobacco, when I suddenly heard a great 
singing in chorus advancing rapidly from a distance 
towards the entrance of the courtyard. At first I 
imagined that the natives intended dancing, which was an 
infliction that I wished to avoid, as I was tired and 
feverish ; but in a few minutes the boy Saat introduced a 
headman, who told me that the riding ox had died in the 
swamp where he had stuck fast in the morning, and that 
the natives had brought his body to me. " What ! " I re- 
plied, " brought his body, the entire ox, to me ? " " The 
entire ox as he died is delivered at your door," answered 
the headman ; " I could not allow any of your property to 
be lost upon the road. Had the body of the ox not been 
delivered to you, we might have been suspected of having 
stolen it." I went to the entrance of the courtyard, and 
amidst a crowd of natives I found the entire ox exactly as 
he had died. They had carried him about eight miles on 
a litter, which they had constructed of two immensely 
long posts with cross-pieces of bamboo, upon which they 
had laid the body. They would not eat the flesh, and 
seemed quite disgusted at the idea, as they replied that 
« it had died." 

It is a curious distinction of the Unyoro people, that 
they are peculiarly clean feeders, and will not touch either 
the flesh of animals that have died, neither of those that 
are sick ; nor will they eat the crocodile. They asked for 
no remuneration for bringing their heavy load so great a 
distance ; and they departed in good humour as a matter 
of course. 

Never were such contradictory people as these crea- 
tures ; they had troubled us dreadfully during the journey, 



Chap. XII.] CLOSE TO THE LAKE. 307 

as they would suddenly exclaim against the weight of 
their loads, and throw them down, and bolt into the high 
grass ; yet now they had of their own free will delivered \ 
to me a whole dead ox from a distance of eight miles, pre- 
cisely as though it had been an object of the greatest 
value. 

The name of this village was Parkani. For several days 
past our guides had told us that we were very near to the 
lake, and we were now assured that we should reach it on 
the morrow. I had noticed a lofty range of mountains at an ' 
immense distance west, and I had imagined that the lake 
lay on the other side of this chain; but I was now in- 
formed that those mountains formed the western frontier 
of the M'-wootan Wzig&, and that the lake was actually 
within a march of Parkani. I could not believe it pos- 
sible that we were so near the object of our search. The 
guide Eabonga now appeared, and declared that if we 
started early on the following morning we should be able 
to wash in the lake by noon ! 

That night I hardly slept. For years I had striven to 
reach the "sources of the Nile." In my nightly dreams 
during that arduous voyage I had always failed, but after 
so much hard work and perseverance the cup was at my 
very lips, and I was to drink at the mysterious fountain 
before another sun should set — at that great reservoir of 
Nature that ever since creation had baffled all discovery. 

I had hoped, and prayed, and striven through all kinds 
of difficulties, in sickness, starvation, and fatigue, to reach 
that hidden source ; and when it had appeared impossible, 
we had both determined to die upon the road rather 
than return defeated. Was it possible that it was so 
near, and that to-morrow we could say, " the work is 
accomplished ? " 

The 14:th March. — The sun had not risen when I was 
spurring my ox after the guide, who, having been promised 
a double handful of beads on arrival at the lake, had 
caught the enthusiasm of the moment. The day broke 
beautifully clear, and having crossed a deep valley between 
the hills* we toiled up the opposite slope. I hurried to the 

x 2 



308 GRATITUDE TO PROFIDENCK [Chai>. XII. 

summit. The glory of our prize burst suddenly upon me ! 
There, like a sea of quicksilver, lay far beneath the grand 
expanse of water, — a boundless sea horizon on the south 
and south-west, glittering in the noon-day sun ; and on the 
west, at fifty or sixty miles' distance, blue mountains rose 
from the bosom of the lake to a height of about 7,000 
feet above its level. 

It is impossible to describe the triumph of that moment ; 
— here was the reward for all our labour — for the years of 
tenacity with which we had toiled through Africa. 
England had won the sources of the Nile ! Long before I 
reached this spot, I had arranged to give three cheers with 
all our men in English style in honour of the discovery, 
but now that I looked down upon the great inland sea 
lying nestled in the very heart of Africa, and thought how 
vainly mankind had sought these sources throughout so 
many ages, and reflected that I had been the humble 
instrument permitted to unravel this portion of the great 
mystery when so many greater than I had failed, I felt too 
serious to vent my feelings in vain cheers for victory, and 
I sincerely thanked God for having guided and supported 
us through all dangers to the good end. I was about 1,500 
feet above the lake, and I looked down from the steep 
granite cliff upon those welcome waters — upon that vast 
reservoir which nourished Egypt and brought fertility 
where all was wilderness — upon that great source so long 
hidden from mankind ; that source of bounty and of 
blessings to millions of human beings ; and as one of the 
greatest objects in nature, I determined to honour it with 
a great name. As an imperishable memorial of one loved 
and mourned by our gracious Queen and deplored by 
every Englishman, I called this great lake " the Albert 
N'yanza." The Victoria and the Albert lakes are the 
two Sources of the Nile. 

The zigzag path to descend to the lake was so steep and 
dangerous that we were forced to leave our oxen with a 
guide, who was to take them to Magungo and wait for our 
arrival. We commenced the descent of the steep pass on 
foot. I led the way, grasping a stout bamboo. My wife 






Chap. XII.] FISHING TACKLE. 309 

in extreme weakness tottered down the pass, supporting 
herself upon my shoulder, and stopping to rest every 
twenty paces. After a toilsome descent of about two 
hours, weak with years of fever, but for the moment 
strengthened by success, we gained the level plain below 
the cliff. A walk of about a mile through flat sandy 
meadows of fine turf interspersed with trees and bush, 
brought us to the water's edge. The waves were rolling 
upon a white pebbly beach : I rushed into the lake, and 
thirsty with heat and fatigue, with a heart full of gratitude, 
I drank deeply from the Sources of the Nile. Within a 
quarter of a mile of the lake was a fishing village named 
Vacovia, in which we now established ourselves. Every- 
thing smelt of fish — and everything looked like fishing ; 
not the " gentle art " of England with rod and fly, but 
harpoons were leaning against the huts, and lines almost 
as thick as the little finger were, hanging up to dry, to 
which were attached iron hooks of a size that said much for 
the monsters of the Albert lake. On entering the hut I 
found a prodigious quantity of tackle ; the lines were 
beautifully made of the fibre of the plantain stem, and 
were exceedingly elastic, and well adapted to withstand 
the first rush of a heavy fish ; the hooks were very coarse, 
but well barbed, and varied in size from two to six inches. 
A number of harpoons and floats for hippopotami were 
arranged in good order, and the tout ensemble of the hut 
showed that the owner was a sportsman. 

The harpoons for hippopotami were precisely the same 
pattern as those used by the Hamran Arabs on the Taka 
frontier of Abyssinia, having a narrow blade of three- 
quarters of an inch in width, with only one barb. The 
rope fitted to the harpoon was beautifully made of plantain 
fibre, and the float was a huge piece of ambatch-wood 
about fifteen inches in diameter. They speared the hippo- 
potamus from canoes, and these large floats were neces- 
sary to be easily distinguished in the rough waters of 
the lake. 

My men were perfectly astounded at the appearance 
of the lake. The journey had been so long, and " hope 



310 FEAST IN HONOUR OF TEE DISCOVERY. [Chap. XII. 

deferred" had so completely sickened their hearts, that 
they had long since disbelieved in the existence of the 
lake, and they were persuaded that I was leading them to 
the sea. They now looked at the lake with amazement — 
two of them had already seen the sea at Alexandria, and 
they unhesitatingly declared that this was the sea, but 
that it was not salt. 

Vacovia was a miserable place, and the soil was ko 
impregnated with salt, that no cultivation was possible. 
Salt was the natural product of the country ; and the popu- 
lation were employed in its manufacture, which constituted 
the business of the lake shores — being exchanged for sup- 
plies from the interior. I went to examine the pits : these 
were about six feet deep, from which was dug a black 
sandy mud that was placed in large earthenware jars ; 
these were supported upon frames, and mixed with water, 
which filtering rapidly through small holes in the bottom, 
was received in jars beneath: this water was again used 
with fresh mud until it became a strong brine, when it 
was boiled and evaporated. The salt was white, but very 
bitter. I imagine that it has been formed by the decay of 
aquatic plants that have been washed ashore by the waves ; 
decomposing, they have formed a mud deposit, and much 
potash is combined with the salt. The fiat sandy meadow 
that extends from the lake for about a mile to the foot of 
the precipitous cliffs of 1,500 feet, appears to have formed 
at one period the bottom of the lake — in fact, the fiat land 
of Vacovia looks like a bay, as the mountain cliffs about 
five miles south and north descend abruptly to the water, 
and the flat is the bottom of a horseshoe formed by the 
cliffs. Were the level of the lake fifteen feet higher, this 
flat would be flooded to the base of the hills. 

I procured a couple of kids from the chief of the village 
for some blue beads, and having received an ox as a pre- 
sent from the headman of Parkani in return for a number 
of beads and bracelets, I gave my men a grand feast in 
honour of the discovery ; I made them an address, explain- 
ing to them how much trouble we should have been saved 
had my whole party behaved well from the first commence- 



Chap. XIL] SURVEY OF THE LAKE. 311 

ment and trusted to my guidance, as we should have 
arrived here twelve months ago ; at the same time I told 
them, that it was a greater honour to have achieved the 
task with so small a force as thirteen men, and that as the 
lake was thus happily reached, and Mrs. Baker was restored 
to health after so terrible a danger, I should forgive them 
past offences and wipe out all that had been noted against 
them in my journal. This delighted my people, who 
ejaculated "El hamd el Illah!" (thank God!) and fell 
to immediately at their beef. 

At sunrise on the following morning I took the compass, 
and accompanied by the chief of the village, my guide 
Rabonga, and the woman Bacheeta, I went to the borders 
of the lake to survey the country. It was beautifully 
clear, and with a powerful telescope I could distinguish 
two large waterfalls that cleft the sides of the mountains 
on the opposite shore. Although the outline of the moun- 
tains was distinct upon the bright blue sky, and the dark 
shades upon their sides denoted deep gorges, I could not 
distinguish other features than the two great falls, which 
looked like threads of silver on the dark face of the moun- 
tains. No base had been visible, even from an elevation 
of 1,500 feet above the water-level, on my first view of the 
lake, but the chain of lofty mountains on the west appeared 
to rise suddenly from the water. This appearance must 
have been due to the great distance, the base being below 
the horizon, as dense columns of smoke were ascending 
apparently from the surface of the water : this must have 
been produced by the burning of prairies at the foot of the 
mountains. The chief assured me that large canoes had 
been known to cross over from the other side, but that it 
required four days and nights of hard rowing to accom- 
plish the voyage, and that many boats had been lost in 
the attempt. The canoes of Unyoro were not adapted for 
so dangerous a journey ; but the western shore of the lake 
was comprised in the great kingdom of Malegga, governed 
by King Tvajoro, who possessed large canoes, and traded 
with Kamrasi from a point opposite to Magungo, where 
the lake was contracted to the width of one day's voyage. 



312 COUNTRIES BORDERING TEE LAKE. [Chap. XII. 

He described Malegga as a very powerful country, and of 

greater extent than either Unyora or Uganda South 

of Malegga was a country named Tori, governed by a king 
of the same name : beyond that country to the south on 
the western shore no intelligence could be obtained from 
any one. 

The lake was known to extend as far south as Karagwe 1 ; 
and the old story was repeated, that Eumanika, the king 
of that country, was in the habit of sending ivory-hunting 
parties to the lake at Utumbi, and that formerly they had 
navigated the lake to Magungo. This was a curious con- 
firmation of the report given me by Speke at Gondokoro, 
who wrote : " Eumanika is constantly in the habit of send- 
ing ivory-hunting parties to Utumbi." 

The eastern shores of the lake were, from north to 

? south, occupied by Chopi, Unyoro, Uganda, Utumbi, and 
Karagwe : from the last point, which could not be less 
than about two degrees south latitude, the lake was re- 
ported to turn suddenly to the west, and to continue in 
that direction for an unknown distance. North of Ma- 
legga, on the west of the lake, was a small country called 
M'Caroli ; then Koshi, on the west side of the Nile at its 
exit from the lake ; and on the east side of the Nile was 
the Madi, opposite to Koshi. Both the guide and the 
chief of Yacovia informed me that we should be taken by 
canoes to Magungo, to the point at which the Somerset 
that we had left at Karuma joined the lake ; but that we 
could not ascend it, as it was a succession of cataracts the 
whole way from Karuma until within a short distance of 
Magungo. The exit of the Nile from the lake at Koshi 
was navigable for a considerable distance, and canoes could 
descend the river as far as the Madi. 

They both agreed that the level of the lake was never 
lower than at present, and that it never rose higher than a 
mark upon the beach that accounted for an increase of 
about four feet. The beach was perfectly clean sand, upon 
which the waves rolled like those of the sea, throwing up 
weeds precisely as seaweed may be seen upon the English 
shore. It was a grand sight to look upon this vast reservoir 



Chap. XII.] THE GREAT BASIN OF THE NILE, 313 

of the mighty Nile, and to watch the heavy swell tumbling 
upon the beach, while far to the south-west the eye searched 
as vainly for a bound as though upon the Atlantic. It was 
with extreme emotion that I enjoyed this glorious scene. 
My wife, who had followed me so devotedly, stood by my 
side pale and exhausted — a wreck upon the shores of the 
great Albert lake that we had so long striven to reach. 
No European foot had ever trod upon its sand, nor had the 
eyes of a white man ever scanned its vast expanse of water. 
We were the first ; and this was the key to the great secret 
that even Julius Caesar yearned to unravel, but in vain. 
Here was the great basin of the Nile that received every 
drop of water, even from the passing shower to the roaring 
mountain torrent that drained from Central Africa towards 
the north. This was the great reservoir of the Nile ! 

The first coup d'ceil from the summit of the cliff 1,500 
feet above the level had suggested what a closer examina- 
tion confirmed. The lake was a vast depression far below 
the general level of the country, surrounded by precipitous 
cliffs, and bounded on the west and south-west by great 
ranges of mountains from five to seven thousand feet 
above the level of its waters — thus it was the one great 
reservoir into which everything must drain ; and from this 
vast rocky cistern the Nile made its exit, a giant in its 
birth. It was a grand arrangement of Nature for the 
birth of so mighty and important a stream as the river 
Nile. The Victoria N'yanza of Speke formed a reservoir 
at a high altitude, receiving a drainage from the west by 
the Kitangule" river, and Speke had seen the M'fumbiro 
mountain at a great distance as a peak among other moun- 
tains from which the streams descended, which by uniting 
formed the main river Kitangule^ the principal feeder of 
the Victoria lake from the west, in about the 2° S. latitude : 
thus the same chain of mountains that fed the Victoria on 
the east must have a watershed to the west and north that 
would flow into the Albert lake. The general drainage of 
the Nile basin tending from south to north, and the Albert 
lake extending much farther north than the Victoria, it 
receives the river from the latter lake, and thus monopolizes 



314 AFFLUENTS OF THE ALBERT LAKE. [Chap. XII. 

the entire head-waters of the Nile. The Alhert is the 
grand reservoir, while the Victoria is the eastern source ; 
the parent streams that form these lakes are from the same 
origin, and the Kitangule" sheds its waters to the Victoria 
to be received eventually by the Albert, precisely as the 
highlands of M'fumbiro and the Blue Mountains pour 
their northern drainage direct into the Albert lake. The 
entire Nile system, from the first Abyssinian tributary the 
Atbara in N. latitude 17° 37' even to the equator, exhibits 
a uniform drainage from S.E. to N.W., every tributary 
flowing in that direction to the main stream of the Nile ; 
this system is persisted in by the Victoria Nile, which 
having continued a northerly course from its exit from the 
Victoria lake to Karuma in lat. 2° 16' N. turns suddenly to 
the west and meets the Albert ]ake at Magungo ; thus, a line 
drawn from Magungo to the Eipon Falls from the Victoria 
lake will prove the general slope of the country to be the 
same as exemplified throughout the entire system of the 
eastern basin of the Nile, tending from S.E. to N.W. 

That many considerable affluents flow into the Albert 
lake there is no doubt. The two waterfalls seen by 
telescope upon the western shore descending from the 
Blue Mountains must be most important streams, or they 
could not have been distinguished at so great a distance as 
fifty or sixty miles ; the natives assured me that very 
many streams, varying in size, descended the mountains 
upon all sides into the general reservoir. 

I returned to my hut : the flat turf in the vicinity of 
the village was strewn with the bones of immense fish, 
hippopotami, and crocodiles; but the latter reptiles were 
merely caught in revenge for any outrage committed by 
them, as their flesh was looked upon with disgust by the 
natives of Unyoro. They were so numerous and voracious 
in the lake, that the natives cautioned us not to allow the 
women to venture into the water even to the knees when 
filling their water-jars. 

It was most important that we should hurry forward on 
our journey, as our return to England depended entirely 
upon the possibility of reaching Gondokoro before the end 



Chap. XII.] OUR WHOLE PARTY FEVER-STRICKEN. 315 

of April, otherwise the boats would have departed. I 
impressed upon our guide and the chief that we must be 
furnished with large canoes immediately, as we had no 
time to spare, and I started off Eabonga to Magungo, 
where he was to meet us with our riding oxen. The 
animals would be taken by a path upon the high ground ; 
there was no possibility of travelling near the lake, as the 
cliffs in many places descended abruptly into deep water. 
I made him a present of a large quantity of beads that I 
had promised to give him upon reaching the lake ; he took 
his departure, agreeing to meet us at Magungo with our 
oxen, and to have porters in readiness to convey us direct 
to Shooa. 

On the following morning not one of our party could 
rise from the ground. Thirteen men, the boy Saat, four 
women, and we ourselves, were all down with fever. The 
air was hot and close, and the country frightfully un- 
healthy. The natives assured us that all strangers suffered 
in a similar manner, and that no one could live at Vacovia 
without repeated attacks of fever. 

The delay in supplying the boats was most annoying; 
every hour was precious ; and the lying natives deceived 
us in every manner possible, delaying us purposely in the 
hope of extorting beads. 

The latitude of Vacovia was 1° 15' 2>T. ; longitude 
30° 50' E. My farthest southern point on the road from 
M'rooli was latitude 1° 13'. We were now to turn our 
faces towards the north, and every day's journey would 
bring us nearer home. But where was home? As I 
looked at the map of the world, and at the little red spot 
that represented old England far, far away, and then gazed 
on the wasted form and haggard face of my wife and at 
my own attenuated frame, I hardly dared hope for 'home 
again. We had now been three years ever toiling onwards, 
and having completed the exploration of all the Abyssinian 
affluents of the Nile, in itself an arduous undertaking, 
we were now actually at the Nile head. We had 
neither health nor supplies, and the great journey lay all 
before us. 



316 ARRANGE CANOES FOR LAKE VOYAGE. [Chap. XII. 

Notwithstanding my daily entreaties that boats might 
be supplied without delay, eight days were passed at 
Vacovia, during which time the whole party suffered more 
or less from fever. At length canoes were reported to have 
arrived, and I was requested to inspect them. They were 
merely single trees neatly hollowed out, but very inferior 
in size to the large canoes on the Nile at M'rooli The 
largest boat was thirty-two feet long, but I selected for 
ourselves one of twenty-six feet, but wider and deeper. 
Fortunately I had purchased at Khartoum an English 
screw auger 1J inch in diameter, and this tool I had 
brought with me, foreseeing some difficulties in boating 
arrangements. I now bored holes two feet apart in the 
gunwale of the canoe, and having prepared long elastic 
wands, I spanned them in arches across the boat and 
lashed them to the auger holes. This completed, I secured 
them by diagonal pieces, and concluded by thatching the 
framework with a thin coating of reeds to protect us from 
the sun ; over the thatch I stretched ox-hides well drawn 
and lashed, so as to render our roof waterproof. This 
arrangement formed a tortoise-like protection that would 
be proof against sun and rain. I then arranged some logs 
of exceedingly light wood along the bottom of the canoe, 
and covered them with a thick bed of grass ; this was 
covered with an Abyssinian tanned ox-hide, and arranged 
with Scotch plaids. The arrangements completed, afforded 
a cabin, perhaps not as luxurious as those of the Penin- 
sular and Oriental Company's vessels, but both rain and 
sun-proof, which was the great desideratum. In this 
rough vessel we embarked on a calm morning, when 
hardly a ripple moved the even surface of the lake. Each 
canoe had four rowers, two at either end. Their paddles 
were beautifully shaped, hewn from one piece of wood, 
the blade being rather wider than that of an ordinary 
spade, but concave in the inner side, so as to give the 
rower a great hold upon the water. Having purchased 
with some difficulty a few fowls and dried fish, I put the 
greater number of my men in the larger canoe ; and with 
Eicharn, Saat, and the women, including the interpreter 



Chap. XII.] START FROM VACOVIA. 317 

Bacheeta, we led the way, and started from Vacovia on the 
broad surface of the Albert N'yanza. The rowers paddled 
bravely ; and the canoe, although heavily laden, went 
along at about four miles an hour. There was no excite- 
ment in Vacovia, and the chief and two or three attendants 
were all who came to see us off; they had a suspicion that 
bystanders might be invited to assist as rowers, therefore 
the entire population of the village had deserted. 

At leaving the shore, the chief had asked for a few 
beads, which, on receiving, he threw into the lake to pro- 
pitiate the inhabitants of the deep, that no hippopotami 
should upset the canoe. 

Our first day's voyage was delightful. The lake was 
calm, the sky cloudy, and the scenery most lovely. At 
times the mountains on the west coast were not dis- 
cernible, and the lake appeared of indefinite width. We 
coasted within a hundred yards of the east shore ; some- 
times we passed flats of sand and bush of perhaps a mile 
in width from the water to the base of the mountain cliffs ; 
at other times we passed directly underneath stupendous 
heights of about 1,500 feet, which ascended abruptly from 
the deep, so that we fended the canoes off the sides, and 
assisted our progress by pushing against the rock with 
bamboos. These precipitous rocks were all primitive, 
frequently of granite and gneiss, and mixed in many 
places with red porphyry. In the clefts were beautiful 
ever-greens of every tint, including giant euphorbias ; and 
wherever a rivulet or spring glittered through the dark 
foliage of a ravine, it was shaded by the graceful and 
feathery wild date. 

Great numbers of hippopotami were sporting in the 
water, but I refused to fire at them, as the death of such 
a monster would be certain to delay us for at least a day, 
as the boatmen would not forsake the flesh. Crocodiles 
were exceedingly numerous both in and out of the water ; 
wherever a sandy beach invited them to bask, several 
monsters were to be seen, like trunks of trees, lying in 
the sun. On the edge of the beach above high-water mark 
were low bushes, and from this cover the crocodiles came 



318 SHORE ENCAMPMENT. [Chap. XII. 

scuttling down into the water, frightened at the approach 
of the canoe. There were neither ducks nor geese, as 
there were no feeding-grounds : deep water was close to 
the shore. 

Our boatmen worked well, and long after dark we con- 
tinued our voyage, until the canoe was suddenly steered 
to the shore, and we grounded upon a steep beach of per- 
fectly clean sand. We were informed that we were near 
a village, and the boatmen proposed to leave us here for 
the night, while they should proceed in search of pro- 
visions. Seeing that they intended to take the paddles 
with them, I ordered these important implements to be 
returned to the boats, and a guard set over them, while 
several of my men should accompany the boatmen to the 
reported village. In the meantime, we arranged our 
angareps upon the beach, lighted a fire with some drift- 
wood, and prepared for the night. The men shortly re- 
turned, accompanied by several natives, with two fowls 
and one small kid. The latter was immediately consigned 
to the large copper pot, and I paid about three times its 
value to the natives, to encourage them to bring supplies 
on the following morning. 

While dinner was preparing, I took an observation, and 
found our latitude was 1° 33' K We had travelled well, 
having made 16' direct northing. 

On the first crowing of our solitary cock, we prepared 
to start ; — the boatmen were gone ! 

As soon as it was light, I took two men and went to 
the village, supposing they were sleeping in their huts. 
Within three hundred paces of the boats, upon a fine 
turfy sward, on rising ground, were three miserable fishing 
huts. These constituted the village. Upon arrival, no 
one was to be found : the natives had deserted. A fine 
tract of broken grass-land formed a kind of amphitheatre 
beneath the range of cliffs. These I scanned with the 
telescope, but I could trace no signs of man. We were 
evidently deserted by our boatmen, and the natives 
had accompanied them to avoid being pressed into our 
service. 



Chap. XII.] NO PILOT. 319 

On my return to the canoes with this intelligence, my 
men were quite in despair ; they could not believe that 
the boatmen had really absconded, and they begged me to 
allow them to search the country in the hope of finding 
another village. Strictly forbidding any man to absent 
himself from the boats, I congratulated ourselves on 
having well guarded the paddles, which there was no 
doubt would have been stolen by the boatmen had I 
allowed them to remain in their possession. I agreed to 
wait until 3 p.m. Should the boatmen not return by that 
hour, I intended to proceed without them. There was no 
dependence to be placed upon these contradictory natives. 
Kindness was entirely thrown away upon them. We had 
Kamrasi's orders for boats and men, but in this distant 
frontier the natives did not appear to attach much im- 
portance to their king : nevertheless, we were dependent 
upon them. Every hour was valuable, as our only chance 
of reaching Gondokoro in time for the boats depended 
upon rapidity of travelling. At the moment when I 
wished to press forward, delays occurred that were most 
trying. 

Three p.m. arrived, but no signs of natives, "Jump 
into the boats, my lads ! '"' I cried to my men ; " I know 
the route." The canoes were pushed from the shore, and 
my people manned the paddles. Five of my men were 
professional boatmen, but no one understood the manage- 
ment of paddles except myself. It was in vain that I 
attempted to instruct my crew. Pull they certainly did ; 
but — ye gods who watch over boats ! — round and round we 
pirouetted, the two canoes waltzing and polking together 
in their great ball-room, the Albert N'yanza. The voyage 
would have lasted ad infinitum. After three Lours' 
exertion, we reached a point of rock that stretched as a 
promontory into the lake. This bluff point was covered 
with thick jungle to the summit, and at the base was a 
small plot of sandy beach, from which there was no exit 
except by water, as the cliff descended sheer to the lake 
upon either side. It poured with rain, and with much 
difficulty we lighted a fire. Mosquitoes were in clouds, 



320 ADAPT A SCOTCH PLAID FOR A SAIL. [Chap. XII 

and the night was so warm that it was impossible to sleep 
beneath the blankets. Arranging the angareps upon the 
sand, with the raw ox-hides as coverlets, we lay down in 
the rain. It was too hot to sleep in the boat, especially as 
the temporary cabin was a perfect mosquito nest. That 
night I considered the best plan to be adopted, and I 
resolved to adapt a paddle as a rudder on the following 
morning. It rained without ceasing the whole night ; and, 
at break of day, the scene was sufficiently miserable, The 
men lay on the wet sand, covered up with their raw hides, 
soaked completely through, but still fast asleep, from 
which nothing would arouse them. My wife was also wet 
and wretched. It still rained. I was soon at work. Cut- 
ting a thwart in the stern of the canoe with my hunting- 
knife, I bored a hole beneath it with the large auger, and 
securely lashed a paddle with a thong of raw hide that I 
cut off my well-saturated coverlet. I made a most effective 
rudder. None of my. men had assisted me; they had 
remained beneath their soaked skins, smoking their short 
pipes, while I was hard at work. They were perfectly 
apathetic with despair, as their ridiculous efforts at pad- 
dling on the previous evening had completely extinguished 
all hope within them. They were quite resigned to 
their destiny, and considered themselves as sacrificed to 
geography. 

I threw them the auger, and explained that I was ready 
to start, and should wait for no one; and, cutting two 
bamboos, I arranged a mast and yard, upon which I fitted 
a large Scotch plaid for a sail. We shoved off the boat : 
fortunately we had two or three spare paddles, therefore 
the rudder paddle was not missed. I took the helm, and 
instructed my men to think of nothing but pulling hard. 
Away we went as straight as an arrow, to the intense 
delight of my people. There was very little wind, but a 
light air filled the plaid and eased us gently forward. 

Upon rounding the promontory we found ourselves in a 
large bay, the opposite headland being visible at about 
eight or ten miles' distance. Should we coast the bay it 
would occupy two days. There was another small pro- 




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ttMhi 




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Chap. XII.] NATIVES VOLUNTEER AS BOATMEN. 321 

mcmtoiy farther in shore; I therefore resolved to steer 
direct for that point before venturing in a straight line 
from one headland to the other. 

Upon looking behind me, I observed our canoe consort 
about a mile astern, amusing herself with pointing to all 
parts of the compass — the lazy men not having taken the 
trouble to adapt the rudder as I had ordered them. 

We travelled at about four miles an hour, and my 
people were so elated that they declared themselves ready 
to row, without assistance, to the Nile junction. The 
water was perfectly calm, and upon rounding the next 
promontory I was rejoiced to see a village in a snug little 
bay, and a great number of canoes drawn up on the sandy 
beach, and others engaged in fishing. A number of natives 
were standing on the sand close to the water's edge, about 
half a mile from us, and I steered directly towards them. 
Upon our close approach, they immediately sat down, and 
held up their paddles above their heads ; this was an un- 
inistakeable sign that they intended to volunteer as boat- 
men, and I steered the boat upon the beach. No sooner 
had we grounded, than they rushed into the water and 
boarded us, most good-humouredly pulling down our mast 
and sail, which appeared to them highly absurd (as they 
never use sails) ; and they explained that they had seen on 
the other side the headland that we were strangers, and 
their chief had ordered them to assist us. I now begged 
them to send six men to the assistance of the lagging 
canoe ; this they promised to do, and, after waiting for 
Borne time, we started at a rattling pace to pull across the 
wide bay from point to point. 

When in the centre of the bay we were about four miles 
from land. At this time a swell set in from the south- 
west. While at Vacovia I had observed, that although 
the mornings were calm, a strong wind generally arose at 
1 p.m. from S.W. that brought a heavy sea upon the beach. 
I was now afraid that we should be subject to a gale 
before we could reach the opposite headland, as the rising 
swell betokened wind from the old quarter, especially as 
dark thunder-clouds were gathering on the western shore. 

Y 



322 NEARLY SWAMPED. [Chap. XII. 

I told Bacheeta to urge the rowers forward, as our heavy 
canoe would certainly be swamped in the event of a gale. 
I looked at my watch : it was past noon, and I felt sure 
that we should catch a south-wester by about one o'clock. 
My men looked rather green at the ominous black clouds 
and the increasing swell, but exclaimed, " Inshallah, there 
will be no wind." With due deference to their faith in 
predestination, I insisted upon their working the spare 
paddles, as our safety depended upon reaching the shore 
before the approaching storm. They had learnt to believe 
in my opinion, and they exerted themselves to their utmost. 
The old boat rushed through the water, but the surface of 
the lake was rapidly changing ; the western shore was no 
longer visible, the water was dark, and innumerable white 
crests tipped the waves. The canoe laboured heavily, and 
occasionally shipped water, which was immediately baled 
out with gourd-shells by my men, who now exclaimed, 
' Wah Illahi el kalam betarel Hawaga sahhe" !" (By Allah, 
what the Hawaga says is true !) We were within about a 
mile and a half of the point for which we had been steer- 
ing, when we could no longer keep our course; we had 
shipped several heavy seas, and had we not been well 
supplied with utensils for baling, we should have been 
swamped. Several bursts of thunder and vivid lightning 
were followed by a tremendous gale from about the W.S.W. 
before which we were obliged to run for the shore. 

In a short space of time a most dangerous sea arose, and 
on several occasions the waves broke against the arched 
covering of the canoe, which happily protected her in a 
slight degree, although we were drenched with water. 
Every one was at work baling with all their might ; I had 
no idea that the canoe could live. Down came the rain 
in torrents, swept along with a terrific wind ; nothing was 
discernible except the high cliffs looming through the 
storm, and I only trusted that we might arrive upon a 
sandy beach, and not upon bluff rocks. We went along 
at a grand rate, as the arched cover of the canoe acted 
somewhat as a sail ; and it was an exciting moment when 
we at length neared the shore, and approached the foaming 



Chap. XII.] LAND SAFELY ON SHORE. 323 

breakers that were rolling wildly upon (happily) a sandy 
beach beneath the cliffs. I told my men to be ready to 
jump out the moment that we should touch the sand, and 
to secure the canoe by hauling the head up the beach. All 
were ready, and we rushed through the surf, the native 
boatmen paddling like steam-engines. " Here comes a 
wave ; look out ! " and just as we almost touched the 
beach, a heavy breaker broke over the black women who 
were sitting in the stern, and swamped the boat. My men 
jumped into the water like ducks, and the next moment 
we were all rolled in confusion on the sandy shore. The 
men stuck well to the boat, and hauled her firmly on the 
sand, while my wife crawled out of her primitive cabin 
like a caddis worm from its nest, half drowned, and jumped 
upon the shore. "El hamd el Illah!" (thank God!) we 
all exclaimed; " now for a pull — all together!" and having 
so far secured the boat that she could not be washed away, 
I ordered the men to discharge the cargo, and then to pull 
her out of the lake. Everything was destroyed except the 
gunpowder ; that was all in canisters. But where was the 
other canoe ? I made up my mind that it must be lost, 
for although much longer than our boat, it was lower in 
the water. After some time and much anxiety, we per- 
ceived it running for the shore about half a mile in our 
rear ; it was in the midst of the breakers, and several times 
I lost sight of it; but the old tree behaved well, and 
brought the crew safe to the shore. 

Fortunately there was a village not far from the spot 
where we landed, and we took possession of a hut, lighted 
a good fire, and wrapped ourselves in Scotch plaids and 
blankets wrung out, while our clothes were being dried, 
as there was not a dry rag in our possession. 

We could procure nothing to eat, except a few dried 
fish that, not having been salted, were rather high flavoured. 
Our fowls, and also two pet quails, were drowned in the 
boat during the storm ; however, the drowned fowls were 
made into a stew, and with a blazing fire, and clean straw 
to sleep upon, the night's rest was perhaps as perfect as in 
the luxury of home. 

y2 



324 SHOOT A CROCODILE. [Chap. XII. 

On the following morning we were detained by bad 
weather, as a heavy sea was still running, and we were 
determined not to risk our canoes in another gale. It 
was a beautiful neighbourhood, enlivened by a magnificent 
waterfall that fell about a thousand feet from the moun- 
tains, as the Kaiigiri river emptied itself into the lake in a 
splendid volume of water. This river rises in the great 
marsh that we had crossed on our way from M'rooli to 
Vacovia. In this neighbourhood we gathered some mush- 
rooms — the true Agaricus canvpestris of Europe — which 
were a great luxury. 

In the afternoon the sea subsided, and we again started. 
We had not proceeded above three miles from the village, 
when I observed an elephant bathing in the lake ; he was 
in water so deep, that he stood with only the top of his 
head and trunk above the surface. As we approached, he 
sunk entirely, only the tip of his trunk remaining above 
the water. I ordered the boatmen to put the canoe as 
close to him as possible, and we passed within thirty 
yards, just as he raised his head from his luxurious bath. 
I was sorely tempted to fire, but remembering my resolve, 
refrained from disturbing him, and he slowly quitted 
the lake, and entered the thick jungle. A short distance 
beyond this spot two large crocodiles were lying upon the 
beach asleep ; but upon the approach of the canoe they 
plunged into the water, and raised their heads above the 
surface at about twenty-five paces. I was uncertain about 
my Fletcher rifle, as it had been exposed to so much wet ; 
therefore, to discharge it, I took a shot at the nearest 
crocodile just behind the eye. The little rifle was in per- 
fect order — thanks to Eley's "double waterproof central 
fire-caps," which' will resist all weathers — and the bullet 
striking the exact spot, the great reptile gave a convulsive 
lash with his tail, and turning on his back, with his paws 
above the water, he gradually sunk. The native boatmen 
were dreadfully frightened at the report of the rifle, to the 
great amusement of their countrywoman, Bacheeta, and it 
was with difficulty that I persuaded them to direct the 
canoe to the exact spot. Being close to the shore, the 



Chap. XII.] TASTE OF CROCODILE FLESH. 325 

water was not more than eight feet deep, and so beau- 
tifully clear, that I could, when just above the crocodile, 
perceive it tying at the bottom on its belly, and distin- 
guish the bloody head that had been shattered by the 
bullet. While one of my men prepared a slip-knot, I 
took a long lance that belonged to a boatman, and drove 
it deep through the tough scales into the back of the neck ; 
hauling gently, upon the lance I raised the head near to 
the surface, and slipping the noose over it, the crocodile 
was secured. It appeared to be quite dead, and the flesh 
would be a honne-houclie for my men ; therefore we towed 
it to the shore. It was a fine monster, about sixteen feet 
long ; and although it had appeared dead, it bit furiously 
at a thick male bamboo which I ran into its mouth to 
prevent it from snapping during the process of decapita- 
tion. The natives regarded my men with disgust as they 
cut huge lumps of the choicest morsels and stowed them 
in the canoes ; this did not occupy more than a quarter of 
an hour, and hurrying on board, we continued our voyage, 
well provided with meat — for all who liked it. To my 
taste nothing can be more disgusting than crocodile flesh. 
I have eaten almost everything; but although I have 
tasted crocodile, I could never succeed in swallowing it ; 
the combined flavour of bad fish, rotten flesh, and musk, is 
the carte de diner offered to the epicure. 

That evening we saw an elephant with an enormous pair 
of tusks ; he was standing on a hill about a quarter of a 
mile from the boats as we halted. I was aided to resist 
this temptation by an attack of fever : it rained as usual, 
and no village being in the neighbourhood, we bivouacked 
in the rain on the beach in clouds of mosquitoes. 

The discomforts of this lake voyage were great ; in the 
day we were cramped in our small cabin like two tortoises 
in one shell, and at night it almost invariably rained. 
We were accustomed to the wet, but no acclimatisation 
can render the European body mosquito-proof ; thus we 
had little rest. It was hard work for me, but for my un- 
fortunate wife, who had hardly recovered from her attack 
of coup de soleil, such hardships were most distressing. 



326 ELEPHANTS IN THE LAKE. [Chap. XII. 

On the following morning the lake was calm, and we 
started early. The monotony of the voyage was broken 
by the presence of several fine herds of elephants, con- 
sisting entirely of brills. I counted fourteen of these 
grand animals, all with large tusks, bathing together in 
a small shallow lake beneath the mountains, having a 
communication with the main lake through a sandy beach : 
these elephants were only knee deep, and having been 
bathing they were perfectly clean, and their colossal black 
forms and large white tusks formed a beautiful picture in 
the calm lake beneath the lofty cliffs. It was a scene in 
harmony with the solitude of the Nile Sources — the wil- 
derness of rocks and forest, the Blue Mountains in the 
distance, and the great fountain of nature adorned with 
the mighty beasts of Africa ; the elephants in undisturbed 
grandeur, and hippopotami disporting their huge forms in 
the great parent of the Egyptian river. 

I ordered the boatmen to run the canoe ashore, that we 
might land and enjoy the scene. We then discovered 
seven elephants on the shore within about two hundred 
yards of us in high grass, while the main herd of fourteen 
splendid bulls bathed majestically in the placid lake, 
showering cold streams from their trunks over their backs 
and* shoulders. There was no time to lose, as every hour 
was important : quitting the shore, we once more paddled 
along the coast. 

Day after day passed, the time occupied in travelling 
from sunrise to mid-day, at which hour a strong gale with 
rain and thunder occurred regularly, and obliged us to 
haul our canoes ashore. The country was very thinly 
inhabited, and the villages were poor and wretched ; the 
people most inhospitable. At length we arrived at .a con- 
siderable town situated in a beautiful bay beneath pre- 
cipitous cliffs, the grassy sides of which were covered with 
flocks of goats ; this was Eppigoya, and the boatmen that 
we had procured from the last village were to deliver us 
in this spot. The delays in procuring boatmen were most 
annoying : it appeared that the king had sent orders that 
each village was to supply the necessary rowers ; thus we 



Chap. XII.] INHOSPITABLE NATIVES. 327 

were paddled from place to place, at each of which the 
men were changed, and no amount of payment would 
induce them to continue with us to the end of our 
voyage. 

Landing at Eppigoya, Ave were at once met by the head- 
man, and I proposed that he should sell us a few kids, as 
the idea of a mutton chop was most appetizing. Far from 
supplying us with this luxury, the natives immediately 
drove their flocks away, and after receiving a large present 
of beads, the headman brought us a present of a sick lamb 
almost at the point of natural death, and merely skin and 
bone. Fortunately there were fowls in thousands, as the 
natives did not use them for food ; these we purchased for 
one blue bead (monjoor) each, which in current value was 
equal to 250 fowls for a shilling. Eggs were brought in 
baskets containing several hundreds, but they were all 
poultry. 

At Eppigoya the best salt was produced, and we pur- 
chased a good supply — also some dried fish: thus pro- 
visioned, we procured boatmen, and again started on our 
voyage. 

Hardly had we proceeded two hundred yards, when we 
were steered direct to the shore below the town, and our 
boatmen coolly laid down their paddles and told us that 
they had performed their share, and that as Eppigoya was 
divided into four parts under separate headmen, each 
portion would supply rowers ! 

Eidiculous as this appeared, there was no contesting 
their decision ; and thus we were handed over from one to 
the other, and delayed for about three hours in changing 
boatmen four times within a distance of less than a mile ! 
The perfect absurdity of such a regulation, combined with 
the delay when time was most precious, was trying to the 
temper. At every change, the headman accompanied the 
boatmen to our canoe, and presented us with three fowls 
at parting ; thus our canoes formed a floating poultry show 
as we had already purchased large supplies. Our live stock 
bothered us dreadfully; being without baskets, the fowls 
were determined upon suicide, and many jumped deli- 



328 ARRIVAL AT MAOUNGO. [Chap. XII. 

berately overboard, while others that were tied by the legs 
were drowned in the bottom of the leaky canoe. 

After the tenth day from our departure from Vacovia 
the scenery increased in beauty. The lake had contracted 
to about thirty miles in width, and was decreasing rapidly 
northward ; the trees upon the mountains upon the western 
shore could be distinguished. Continuing our voyage north, 
the western shore projected suddenly, and diminished the 
width of the lake to about twenty miles. It was no longer 
the great inland sea that at Vacovia had so impressed me, 
with the clean pebbly beach that had hitherto formed the 
shore, but vast banks of reeds growing upon floating vege- 
tation prevented the canoes from landing. These banks 
were most peculiar, as they appeared to have been formed 
of decayed vegetation, from which the papyrus rushes took 
root; the thickness of the floating mass was about three 
feet, and so tough and firm that a man could walk upon it, 
merely sinking above his ankles in the soft ooze. Beneath 
this raft of vegetation was extremely deep water, and 
the shore for a width of about half a mile was entirely 
protected by this extraordinary formation. One day a 
tremendous gale of wind and heavy sea broke off large 
portions, and the wind acting upon the rushes like sails, 
carried floating islands of some acres about the lake to be 
deposited wherever they might chance to hitch. 

On the thirteenth day we found ourselves at the end of 
our lake voyage. The lake at this point was between 
fifteen and twenty miles across, and the appearance of the 
country to the north was that of a delta. The shores upon 
either side were choked with vast banks of reeds, and as 
the canoe skirted the edge of that upon the east coast, we 
could find no bottom with a bamboo of twenty-five feet in 
length, although the floating mass appeared like terra firma. 
We were in a perfect wilderness of vegetation. On the 
west were mountains of about 4,000 feet above the lake 
level, a continuation of the chain that formed the western 
shore from the south : these mountains decreased in height 
towards the north, in which direction the lake terminated 
in a broad valley of reeds. 



Chap. XII.] EMBOUCHURE OF THE SOMERSET RIVER. 329 

We were told that we had arrived at Magungo, and that 
this was the spot where the boats invariably crossed from 
Malegga on the western shore to Karnrasi's country. The 
boatmen proposed that we should land upon the floating 
vegetation, as that would be a short cut to the village or 
town of Magungo ; but as the swell of the water against 
the abrupt raft of reeds threatened to swamp the canoe, I 
preferred coasting until we should discover a good landing- 
place. After skirting the floating reeds for about a mile, 
we turned sharp to the east, and entered a broad channel 
of water bounded on either side by the everlasting reeds. 
This we were informed was the embouchure of the Somerset 
river from the Victoria ISTyanza. The same river that we 
had crossed at Karuma, boiling and tearing along its rocky 
course, now entered the Albert N'yanza as dead water ! I 
could not understand this ; there was not the slightest 
current ; the channel was about half a mile wide, and I 
could hardly convince myself that this was not an arm of 
the lake branching to the east. After searching for some 
time for a landing-place among the wonderful banks of 
reeds, we discovered a passage that had evidently been 
used as an approach by canoes, but so narrow that our 
large canoe could with difficulty be dragged through — all 
the men walking through the mud and reeds, and towing 
with their utmost strength. Several hundred paces of this 
tedious work brought us through the rushes into open 
water, about eight feet deep, opposite to a clean rocky 
shore. We had heard voices for some time while obscured 
on the other side of the rushes, and we now found a 
number of natives, who had arrived to meet us, with the 
chief of Magungo and our guide Eabonga, whom we had 
sent in advance with the riding oxen from Vacovia. The 
water was extremely shallow near the shore, and the 
natives rushed in and dragged the canoes by sheer force 
over the mud to the land. We had been so entirely hidden 
while on the lake on the other side of the reed bank that 
we had been unable to see the eastern, or Magungo shore ; 
we now found ourselves in a delightful spot beneath the 
shade of several enormous trees on firm sandy and rocky 



330 BAGGERA Sf LEPIDOSIREN ANNECTEUS. [Chap. XII. 

ground, while the country rose in a rapid incline to the 
town of Magungo, about a mile distant, on an elevated 
ridge. 

My first question was concerning the riding oxen. They 
were reported in good order. We were invited to wait 
under a tree until the presents from the headman should 
be delivered. Accordingly, while my wife sat under the 
shade, I went to the waterside to examine the fishing 
arrangements of the natives, that were on an exteusive 
scale. For many hundred feet, the edges of the floating 
reeds were arranged to prevent the possibility of a large 
fish entering the open water adjoining the shore without 
being trapped. A regular system of baskets were fixed 
at intervals, with guiding fences to their mouths. Each 




THE BAGGERA. 



basket was about six feet in diameter, and the mouth 
about eighteen inches ; thus the arrangements were for the 
monsters of the lake, the large bones of which, strewed 
about the vicinity, were a witness of their size. My men 
had just secured the half of a splendid fish, known in the 
Nile as the " baggera." They had found it in the water, 
the other portion having been bitten off by a crocodile. 
The piece in their possession weighed about fifty pounds. 
This is one of the best fish in the lake. It is shaped like 
the perch, but is coloured externally like the salmon. I 
also obtained from the natives an exceedingly good fish, of 



Chap. XII.] NATIVE FISHING ARRANGEMENTS. 



331 



a peculiar form, having four long feelers at the positions 
that would be occupied by the limbs of reptiles ; these 
looked like rudiments of legs. It had somewhat the ap- 
pearance of an eel; but, being oviparous, it can have no 
connexion with that genus. The natives had a most killing 
way of fishing with the hook and line for heavy fish. 
They arranged rows of tall bamboos, the ends stuck firmly 
in the bottom, in a depth of about six feet of water, and 
about five or ten yards apart. On the top of each was 
a lump of ambatch-wood about ten inches in diameter. 
Around this was wound a powerful line, and, a small hole 
being made in this float, it was lightly fixed upon the 
point of the bamboo, or fishing-rod. The line was securely 




LEPIDOSIREN ANNBCTEUS. 



attached to the bamboo, then wound round the large float, 
while the hook, baited with a live fish, was thrown to some 
distance beyond. Long rows of these fixed rods were set 
every morning by natives in canoes, and watchers attended 
them during the day, while they took their chance by 
night. When a large fish took the bait, his first rush 
unhitched the ambatch-fioat from the point of the bamboo, 
which, revolving upon the water, paid out line as required. 
"When entirely run out, the great size and buoyancy of the 
float served to check and to exhaust the fish. There are 
several varieties of fish that exceed 200 lbs. weight. 

A number of people now arrived from the village, 
bringing a goat, fowls, eggs, and sour milk, and, beyond 
all luxuries, fresh biitter. I delighted the chief, in return 
for his civility, by giving him a quantity of beads, and we 
were led up the hill towards Magungo. 



332 EXIT OF THE NILE FB031 TEE LAKE. [Chap. XII. 

The day was beautifully clear. The soil was sandy and 
poor, therefore the road was clean and hard ; and, after 
the many days' boating, we enjoyed the walk, and the 
splendid view that lay before us when we arrived at 
Magungo, and looked back upon the lake. "We were about 
250 feet above the water level. There were no longer the 
abrupt cliffs, descending to the lake, that we had seen in 
the south, but the general level of the country appeared to 
be about 500 feet above the water, at a distance of five 
or six miles, from which point the ground descended in 
undulations, Magungo being situated on the summit of 
the nearest incline. The mountains on the Malegga side, 
with the lake in the foreground, were the most prominent 
objects, forming the western boundary. A few miles north 
there appeared to be a gap in the range, and the lake 
continued to the west, but much contracted, while the 
mountain range on the northern side of the gap continued 
to the north-east. Due north and north-east the country 
was a dead fiat, and far as the eye could reach was an 
extent of bright green reeds, marking the course of the 
Nile as it made its exit from the lake. The sheet of water 
at Magungo being about seventeen miles in width, ended 
in a long strip or tail to the north, until it was lost in the 
fiat "valley of green rushes. This valley may have been 
from four to six miles wide, and was bounded upon its 
west bank by the continuation of the chain of mountains 
that had formed the western boundary of the lake. The 
natives told me that canoes could navigate the Nile in its 
course from the lake to the Madi country, as there were 
no cataracts for a great distance, but that both the Madi 
and the Koshi were hostile, and that the current of the 
river was so strong, that should the canoe descend from 
the lake, it could not return without many rowers. They 
pointed out the country of Koshi on the west bank of the 
Nile, at its exit from the lake, which included the 
mountains that bordered the river. The small country, 
M'Caroli, joined Malegga, and continued to the west, 
towards the Makkarika. The natives most positively 
refused to take me down the Nile from the lake' into the 



Chap. XII.] THE VICTORIA NILE AT MAGUNGO. 333 

Madi, as they said that they would be killed by the 
people, who were their enemies, as I should not be with 
them on their return up the river. 

The exit of the Mle from the lake was plain enough, 
and if the broad channel of dead water were indeed the 
entrance of the Victoria Nile (Somerset), the information 
obtained by Speke would be remarkably confirmed. Up 
to the present time all the information that I had received 
from Kamrasi and his people had been correct. He had 
told me that I should be about twenty days from M'rooli 
to the lake ; I had "been eighteen. He had also told me 
that the Somerset flowed from Karuma direct to the lake, 
and that, having joined it, the great Mle issued from the 
lake almost immediately, and flowed through the Koshi 
and Madi tribes. I now saw the river issuing from the 
lake within eighteen miles of Magungo ; and the Koshi 
and the Madi countries appeared close to me, bordering 
it on the west and east. Kamrasi being the king, it 
was natural that he should know his own frontier most 
intimately ; but, although the chief of Magungo and all 
the natives assured me that the broad channel of dead 
water at my feet was positively the brawling river that 
I had crossed below the Karuma Falls, I could not under- 
stand how so fine a body of water as that had appeared 
could possibly enter the Albert lake as dead water. The 
guide and natives laughed at my unbelief, and declared 
that it was dead water for a considerable distance from 
the junction with the lake, but that a great waterfall 
rushed down from a mountain, and that beyond that 
fall the river was merely a succession of cataracts through- 
out the entire distance of about six days' march to 
Karuma Falls. My real wish was to descend the Mle 
in canoes from its exit from the lake with my own men 
as boatmen, and thus in a short time to reach the cataracts 
in the Madi country ; there to forsake the canoes and all 
my baggage, and to march direct to Gondokoro with only 
our guns and ammunition. I knew from native report 
that the Mle was navigable as far as the Macli country 
to about Miani's tree, which Speke had laid down by 



334 RESOLVE TO SETTLE THE NILE Q UESTION. [Chap. XII. 

astronomical observation in lat. 3° 34' ; this would be only- 
seven days' march from Gondokoro, and by such a direct 
course I should be sure to arrive in time for the boats to 
Khartoum. I had promised Speke that I would explore 
most thoroughly the doubtful portion of the river that 
he had been forced to neglect from Karunia Falls to the 
lake. I was myself confused at the dead water junction ; 
and, although I knew that the natives must be right — 
as it was their own river, and they had no inducement to 
mislead me — I was determined to sacrifice every other 
wish in order to fulfil my promise, and thus to settle the 
Mle question most absolutely. That the Mle flowed out 
of the lake I had heard, and I had also confirmed by 
actual inspection ; from Magungo I looked upon the two 
countries, Koshi and Madi, through which it flowed, and 
these countries I must actually pass through and again 
meet the Nile before I could reach Gondokoro. Thus the 
only point necessary to swear to, was the river between 
the lake and the Karuma Falls. 

I had a bad attack of fever that evening, and missed 
my star for the latitude; but on the following morning 
before daybreak I obtained a good observation of "Vega, 
and determined the latitude of Magungo 2° 16' due west 
from Atada or Karuma Falls. This was a strong con- 
firmation that the river beneath my feet was the Somerset 
that I had crossed in the same latitude at Atada, where 
the river was running due west, and where the natives 
had pointed in that direction as its course to the lake. 
Nevertheless, I was determined to verify it, although by 
this circuitous route I might lose the boats from Gondo- 
koro and become a prisoner in Central Africa, ill, and 
without quinine, for another year. I proposed it to my 
wife, who not only voted in her state of abject weakness 
to complete the river to Karuma, but wished, if possible, 
to return and follow the Nile from the lake down to 
Gondokoro ! This latter resolve, based upon the simple 
principle of "seeing is believing," was a sacrifice most 
nobly proposed, but simply impossible and unnecessary. 

We saw from our point at Magungo the Koshi and 



Chap. XII] LEAVE MAGUNGO. 335 

Madi countries, and the Nile flowing out of the lake 
through them. We must of necessity pass through those 
countries on our road to Gondokoro direct from Karuma 
via Shooa, and should we not meet the river in the Madi 
and Koshi country, the Nile that we now saw would not 
he the Nile of Gondokoro. We knew, however, that it 
was so, as Speke and Grant had gone by that route, and 
had met the Nile near Miani's tree in lat. 3° 34' in the 
Madi country, the Koshi being on its western bank ; thus, 
as we were now at the Nile head and saw it passing 
through the Madi and Koshi, any argument against the 
river would be the argumentum ad ctbsurdum. I ordered 
the boats to be got ready to start immediately. 

The chief gave me much information, confirming the 
accounts that I had heard a year previous in the Latooka 
countries, that formerly cowrie shells were brought in 
boats from the south, and that these shells and brass coil 
brackets came by the lake from Karagwe. He called also 
several of the natives of Malegga, who had arrived with 
beautifully-prepared mantles of antelope and goat-skins, 
to exchange for bracelets and glass beads. The Malegga 
people were in appearance the same as those of Unyoro, 
but they spoke a different language. 

The boats being ready, we took leave of the chief, 
leaving him an acceptable present of beads, and we 
descended the hill to the river, thankful at having so 
far successfully terminated the expedition as to have 
traced the lake to that important point Magungo, which 
had been our clue to the discovery even so far away in 
time and place as the distant country of Latooka, We 
were both very weak and ill, and my knees trembled 
beneath me as we walked down the easy descent. I, in 
my enervated state, endeavouring to assist my wife, we 
were the " blind leading the blind ; " but had life closed on 
tli at day we could have died most happily, for the hard 
tight through sickness and misery had ended in victory ; 
and, although I looked to home as a paradise never to 
be regained, I could have lain down to sleep in con- 
tentment on this spot, with the consolation that, if the 



336 VOYAGE UP THE VICTORIA NILE. [Chap. XII. 

body had been vanquished, we died with the prize in our 
grasp. 

On arrival at the canoes we found everything in 
readiness, and the boatmen already in their places. A 
crowd of natives pushed us over the shallows, and once 
in deep water we passed through a broad canal which led 
us into the open channel without the labour of towing 
through the narrow inlet by which we had arrived. Once 
in the broad channel of dead water we steered due east, 
and made rapid way until the evening. The river as it 
now appeared, although devoid of current, was an average 
of about 500 yards in width. Before we halted for the 
night I was subjected to a most severe attack of fever, and 
upon the boat reaching a certain spot I was carried on a 
litter, perfectly unconscious, to a village, attended carefully 
by my poor sick wife, who, herself half dead, followed 
me on foot through the marshes in pitch darkness, and 
watched over me until the morning. At daybreak I was 
too weak to stand, and we were both carried down to the 
canoes, and, crawling helplessly within our grass awning, 
we lay down like logs while the canoes continued their 
voyage. Many of our men were also suffering from fever. 
The malaria of the dense masses of floating vegetation 
was most poisonous ; and upon looking back to the canoe 
that followed in our wake, I observed all my men sitting 
crouched together sick and dispirited, looking like departed 
spirits being ferried across the melancholy Styx. 

The river now contracted rapidly to about 250 yards 
in width about ten miles from Magungo. We had left 
the vast flats of rush banks, and entered a channel 
between high ground, forming steep forest-covered hills, 
about 200 feet on either side, north and south : never- 
theless there was no perceptible stream, although there 
was no doubt that we were actually in the channel of a 
river. The water was clear and exceedingly deep. In the 
evening we halted, and slept on a mud bank close to the 
water. The grass in the forest was very high and rank : 
thus we were glad to find an open space for a bivouac, 
although a nest of mosquitoes and malaria. 



Chap. XII.] INCREASE OF TEE CURRENT. 337 

On waking the next morning, I observed that a thick 
fog covered the surface of the river ; and as I lay upon 
my back, on my angarep, I amused myself before I woke 
my men by watching the fog slowly lifting from the river. 
While thus employed I was struck by the fact, that the 
little green water-plants, like floating cabbages (Pistia 
Stratiotes, L.), were certainly, although very slowly, moving 
to the west. I immediately jumped up, and watched them 
most attentively ; there was no doubt about it ; they were 
travelling towards the Albert lake. We were now about 
eighteen miles in a direct line from Magungo, and there 
was a current in the river, which, however slight, was 
nevertheless perceptible. 

Our toilette did not take long to arrange, as we had 
thrown ourselves down at night with our clothes on; 
accordingly we entered the canoe at once, and gave the 
order to start. 

The woman Bacheeta knew the country, as she had 
formerly been to Magungo when in the service of Sali, 
who had been subsequently murdered by Kamrasi ; she 
now informed me that we should terminate our canoe 
voyage on that day, as we should arrive at the great water- 
fall of which she had often spoken. As we proceeded 
the river gradually narrowed to about 180 yards, and 
when the paddles ceased working we could distinctly 
hear the roar of water. I had heard this on waking in the 
morning, but at the time I had imagined it to proceed 
from distant thunder. By ten o'clock the current had so 
increased as we proceeded, that it was distinctly per- 
ceptible, although weak. The roar of the waterfall was 
extremely loud, and after sharp pulling for a couple of 
hours, during which time the stream increased, we arrived 
at a few deserted fishing-huts, at a point where the river 
made a slight turn. I never saw such an extraordinary 
show of crocodiles as were exposed on every sandbank on 
the sides of the river ; they lay like logs of timber close 
together, and upon one bank we counted twenty-seven, of 
large size ; every basking place was crowded in a similar 
manner. From the time we had fairly entered the river, 

z 






338 TEE MURCEISON FALLS. [Chap. XII. 

it had been confined by heights somewhat precipitous on 
either side, rising to about 180 feet. At this point the 
cliffs were still higher, and exceedingly abrupt. Prom the 
roar of the water, I was sure that the fall would be in 
sight if we turned the corner at the bend of the river; 
accordingly I ordered the boatmen to row as far as they 
could : to this they at first objected, as they wished to stop 
at the deserted fishing village, which they explained was 
to be the limit of the journey, farther progress being 
impossible. 

However, I explained that I merely wished to see the 
fall, and they rowed immediately up the stream, which 
was now strong against us. Upon rounding the corner, a 
magnificent sight burst suddenly upon us. On either side 
the river were beautifully wooded cliffs rising abruptly to 
a height of about 300 feet; rocks were jutting out from 
the intensely green foliage; and rushing through a gap 
that cleft the rock exactly before us, the river, contracted 
from a grand stream, was pent up in a narrow gorge of 
scarcely fifty yards in width ; roaring furiously through 
the rock-bound pass, it plunged in one leap of about 120 
feet perpendicular into a dark abyss below. 

The fall of water was snow-white, which had a superb 
effect as it contrasted with the dark cliffs that walled the 
river, while the graceful palms of the tropics and wild 
plantains perfected the beauty of the view. This was the 
greatest waterfall of the Nile, and, in honour of the dis- 
tinguished President of the Eoyal Geographical Society, I 
named it the Murchison Falls, as the most important 
object throughout the entire course of the river. 

The boatmen, having been promised a present of beads 
to induce them to approach the fall as close as possible, 
succeeded in bringing the canoe within about 300 yards of 
the base, but the power of the current and the whirlpools 
in the river rendered it impossible to proceed farther. 
There was a sandbank on our left which was literally 
covered with crocodiles lying parallel to each other like 
trunks of trees prepared for shipment ; they had no fear 
of the canoe until we approached within about twenty 



Chap. XII.] HIPPOPOTAMUS CHARGES THE CANOE. 339 

yards of them, when they slowly crept into the water; 
all excepting one, an immense fellow who lazily lagged 
behind, and immediately dropped dead as a bullet from 
the little Fletcher No. 24 struck him in the brain. 

So alarmed were the boatmen at the unexpected report 
of the rifle that they immediately dropped into the body 
of the canoe, one of them losing his paddle. Nothing- 
would induce them to attend to the boat, as I had fired a 
second shot at the crocodile as a " quietus,"' and the natives 
did not know how often the alarming noise would be 
repeated. Accordingly we were at the mercy of the 
powerful stream, and the canoe was whisked round by 
the eddy and carried against a thick bank of high reeds ; 
— hardly had we touched this obstruction when a tre- 
mendous commotion took place in the rushes, and in an 
instant a great bull hippopotamus charged the canoe, and 
with a severe shock striking the bottom he lifted us half 
out of the water. The natives who were in the bottom of 
the boat positively yelled with terror, not knowing whether 
the shock was in any way connected with the dreaded 
report of the rifle ; the black women screamed ; and the 
boy Saat handing me a spare rifle, and Kicharn being 
ready likewise, we looked out for a shot should the angry 
hippo again attack us. 

A few kicks bestowed by my angry men upon the re- 
cumbent boatmen restored them to the perpendicular. The 
first thing necessary was to hunt for the lost paddle that 
was floating down the rapid current. The hippopotamus, 
proud of having disturbed us, but doubtless thinking us 
rather hard of texture, raised his head to take a last view 
of his enemy, but sank too rapidly to permit a shot. 
Crocodile heads of enormous size were on all sides, appear- 
ing and vanishing rapidly as they rose to survey us ; at 
one time we counted eighteen upon the surface. Fine fun 
it would have been for these monsters had the bull hippo 
been successful in his attempt to capsize us ; the fat black 
woman, Karka, would have been a dainty morsel. Having 
recovered the lost paddle, I prevailed upon the boatmen 
to keep the canoe steady while I made a sketch of the 

z2 









— . 



340 ARRIVAL OF OXEN, BUT NOT THE GUIDE. [Chap. XIX 

Murchison Falls, which being completed, we drifted 
rapidly down to the landing-place at the deserted fishing- 
village, and bade adieu to the navigation of the lake and 
river of Central Africa. 

The few huts that existed in this spot were mere ruins. 
Clouds had portended rain, and down it came, as it usually 
did once in every twenty-four hours. However, that 
passed away by the next morning, and the day broke, 
discovering us about as wet and wretched as we were 
accustomed to be. I now started off four of my men 
with the boatmen and the interpreter Bacheeta to the 
nearest village, to inquire whether our guide Eabonga had 
arrived with our riding oxen, as our future travelling was 
to be on land, and the limit of our navigation must have 
been well known to him. After some hours the people 
returned, minus the boatmen, with a message from the 
headman of a village they had visited, that the oxen were 
there, but not the guide Eabonga, who had remained at 
Magungo, but that the animals should be brought to us 
that evening, together with porters to convey the luggage. 

In the evening a number of people arrived, bringing 
some plantain cider and plantains as a present from the 
headman ; and promising that, upon the following morn- 
ing? we should be conducted to his village. 

The next day we started, but not until the afternoon, as 
we had to await the arrival of the headman, who was to 
escort us. Our oxen were brought, and if we looked 
wretched, the animals were a match. They had been 
bitten by the fry, thousands of which were at this spot. 
Their coats were staring, ears drooping, noses running, and 
heads hanging down ; all the symptoms of fly-bite, together 
with extreme looseness of the bowels. I saw that it was 
all up with our animals. Weak as I was myself, I was 
obliged to walk, as my ox could not carry me up the steep 
inclination, and I toiled languidly to the summit of the 
cliff. It poured with rain. Upon arrival at the summit 
we were in precisely the same park-like land that charac- 
terises Chopi and Unyoro, but the grass was about seven 
feet high ; and from the constant rain, and the extreme 



Chap. XII] SICKNESS ON THE MARCH. 341 

fertility of the soil, the country was choked with vege- 
tation. We were now above the Murchison Falls, and we 
heard the roaring of the water beneath us to our left. We 
continued our route parallel to the river above the Falls, 
steering east ; and a little before evening we arrived at a 
small village belonging to the headman who accompanied 
us. I was chilled and wet ; my wife had fortunately been 
carried on her litter, which was protected by a hide roofing. 
Feverish and exhausted, I procured from the natives some 
good acid plums, and refreshed by these I was able to boil 
my thermometer and take the altitude. 

On the following morning we started, the route as before 
parallel to the river, and so close that the roar of the 
rapids was extremely loud. The river flowed in a deep 
ravine upon our left. We continued for a day's march 
along the Somerset, crossing many ravines and torrents, 
until we turned suddenly down to the left, and arriving at 
the bank we were to be transported to an island called 
Patooan, that was the residence of a chief. It was about 
an hour after sunset, and being dark, my riding ox, who 
was being driven as too weak to carry me, fell into an 
elephant pitfall. After much hallooing, a canoe was 
brought from the island, which was not more than fifty 
yards from the mainland, and we were ferried across. We 
were both very ill with a sudden attack of fever ; and my 
wife, not being able to stand, was, on arrival at the island, 
carried on a litter I knew not whither, escorted by some of 
my men, while I lay down on the wet ground quite ex- 
hausted with the annihilating disease. At length the 
remainder of my men crossed over, and those who had 
carried my wife to the village returning with firebrands, I 
managed to creep after them with the aid of a long stick, 
upon which I rested with both hands. After a walk, 
through a forest of high trees, for about a quarter of a 
mile, I arrived at a village where I was shown a wretched 
hut, the stars being visible through the roof. In this my 
wife lay dreadfully ill upon her angarep, and I fell down 
upon some straw. About an hour later, a violent thunder- 
storm broke over us, and our hut was perfectly flooded ; 









342 INFORMATION ABOUT IBRAHIM. [Chap. XII. 

we, "being far too ill and helpless to move from our posi- 
tions, remained dripping wet and shivering with fever 
until the morning. Our servants and people had, like all 
natives, made themselves much more comfortable than 
their employers ; nor did they attempt to interfere with our 
misery in any way until summoned to appear at sunrise. 

The island of Patooan was about half a mile long by 
150 yards wide, and was one of the numerous masses of 
rocks that choke the river between Karuma Falls and the 
great Murchison cataract. The rock was entirely of grey 
granite, from the clefts of which beautiful forest trees 
grew so thickly that the entire island was in shade. In 
the middle of this secluded spot was a considerable village 
thickly inhabited, as the population of the mainland had 
fled from their dwellings and had taken refuge upon the 
numerous river islands, as the war was raging between 
Kionga and Kamrasi. A succession of islands from the 
east of Patooan continued to within a march of Karuma 
Falls. These were in the possession of Eionga, and a still 
more powerful chief and ally, Fowooka, who were the 
deadly enemies of Kamrasi. 

It now appeared that after my departure from M'rooli 
to ^earch for the lake, Ibrahim had been instructed by 
Kamrasi to accompany his army, and attack Fowooka. 
This had been effected, but the attack had been confined 
to a bombardment by musketry from the high cliffs of the 
river upon the people confined upon one of the islands. 
A number of men had been killed, and Ibrahim had 
returned to Gondokoro with a quantity of ivory and 
porters supplied by Kamrasi ; but he had left ten of his 
armed men as hostages with the king, to act as his guard 
until he should return on the following year to Unyoro. 
Ibrahim and his strong party having quitted the country, 
Fowooka had invaded the mainland of Chopi, and had 
burnt and destroyed all the villages, and killed many 
people, including a powerful chief of Kamrasi' s, the father 
of the headman of the island of Patooan where we were 
now staying. Accordingly the fugitives from the destroyed 
villages had taken refuge upon the island of Patooan, and 



Chap. XII.] DIFFERENCE IN THE RIVER LEVEL. 343 

others of the same character. The headman informed us 
that it would be impossible to proceed along the bank of 
the river to Karuma, as that entire line of country was in 
possession of the enemy. This was sufficient to assure me 
that I should not procure porters. 

There was no end to the difficulties and trouble in this 
horrible country. My exploration was completed, as it 
was by no means necessary to continue the route from 
Patooan to Karuma. I had followed the Somerset from 
its junction with the lake at Magungo to this point ; here 
it was a beautiful river, precisely similar in character to 
the point at which I had left it at Karuma : we were now 
within thirty miles of that place, and about eighteen miles 
from the point opposite Rionga's island, where we had first 
hit upon the river on our arrival from the north. The 
direction was perfectly in accordance with my observations 
at Karuma, and at Magungo, the Somerset running from 
east to west. The river was about 180 to 200 yards in 
width, but much obstructed with rocks and islands ; the 
stream ran at about four miles per hour, and the rapids 
and falls were so numerous that the roar of water had 
been continuous throughout our march from Murchison 
Falls. By observations of Casella's thermometer I made 
the altitude of the river level at the island of Patooan 
3,195 feet ; thus from this point to the level of the Albert 
lake at Magungo there was a fall of 475 feet — this dif- 
ference being included between Patooan and the foot of 
Murchison Falls : the latter ; being at the lowest estimate 
120 feet, left 355 feet to be accounted for between Patooan 
and the top of the falls. As the ledges of rock through- 
out the course of the river formed a series of steps, this 
was a natural difference in altitude that suggested the 
correctness of the observations. 

At the river level below Karuma Falls I had measured 
the altitude at 3,996 feet above the sea leveL Thus, there 
was a fall from that point to Patooan of 801 feet, and a 
total of 1,276 feet in the descent of the river from Karuma 
to the Albert N'y anza - These measurements, most care- 
fully taken, corroborated the opinion suggested by the 



344 ALTITUDES. [Chap. XII, 

natural appearance of the river, which was a mere suc- 
cession of cataracts throughout its westerly course from 
Karuma. 

To me these observations were more than usually in- 
teresting, as when I had met my friend Speke at Gondo- 
koro he was much perplexed concerning the extraordinary 
difference in his observation between the altitude of the 
river level at Karuma Falls, lat. 2° 15', and at Gebel Kookoo 
in the Madi country, lat. 3° 34', the point at which he sub- 
sequently met the river. He knew that both rivers were 
the Nile, as he had been told this by the natives ; the one, 
before it had joined the Albert lake — the other, after its 
exit ; but he had been told that the river was navigable 
from Gebel Kookoo, lat. 3° 34', straight up to the junction 
of the lake ; thus, there could be no great difference in 
altitude between the lake and the Nile where he met it, in 
lat. 3° 34'. Nevertheless, he found so enormous a difference 
in his observations between the river at Karuma and at 
Gebel Kookoo, that he concluded there must be a fall 
between Karuma and the Albert lake of at least 1,000 
feet; by careful measurements I proved the closeness of 
his reasoning and observation, by finding a fall of only 
275 feet more than he had anticipated. From Karuma to 
the Albert lake (although unvisited by Speke), he had 
marked upon his map, "river falls 1,000 feet;" by actual 
measurement I proved it to be 1,275 feet. 

The altitudes measured by me have been examined, and 
the thermometer that I used had been tested at Kew, and 
its errors corrected since my return to England ; thus all 
altitudes observed with that thermometer should be cor- 
rect, as the results, after correction by Mr. Dunkin, of the 
Greenwich Eoyal Observatory, are those now quoted. It 
will therefore be interesting to compare the observations 
taken at the various points on the Nile and Albert lake 
in the countries of Unyoro and Chopi — the correctness of 
which relatively will be seen by comparison : — 

1864. Feet. 

Jan. 22. Eionga's island, 80 feet above the Kile .... 3,864 

,, 25. Karuma, below the falls, river level (Atada) . . 3,996 

„ 31. South of Karuma, river level on road to M'roali . 4,056 



Chap. XII.] ALTITUDES. 345 

1864. Feet. 

Feb. 21. M'rooli lat. 1° 38' river level 4,061 

Mar. 14. Albert N'yanza, lake level 2,720 

April 7. Island of Patooan (Shooa Morii) river level ... 3, 195 

By these observations it will be seen that from M'rooli, in 
lat. 1° 38' to Karuma in lat. 2° 15', there is a fall of sixty- 
five feet ; say minus five feet, for the Karuma Falls equals 
sixty feet fall in 37' of latitude ; or allowing for the great 
bend of the river, twenty miles of extra course, it will be 
equal to about sixty statute miles of actual river from 
M'rooli to Atada or Karuma Falls, showing a fall of one 
foot per mile. From M'rooli to the head of the Karuma 
Falls the river is navigable ; thus the observations of alti- 
tudes showing a fall of one foot per mile must be extremely 
accurate. 

The next observations to be compared are those from 
Karuma Falls throughout the westerly course of the river 
to the Albert lake : — 

Feet. Feet. 

Eiver level below Karuma Falls 3,996 

Eionga's island 3,864— 80 feet cliff 3,784 = 212 fall. 

' to the west. 

Eiver level at island of Patooan (Shooa Morii) . 3,195 = 589 fall, 
from Eionga's island. 

Level of Albert lake 2,720 = 475 fall. 

from Patooan to lake. 

From Karuma 1,276 fall. 

These observations were extremely satisfactory, and showed 
that the thermometer (Casella's) behaved well at every 
boiling, as there was no confusion of altitudes, but each 
observation corroborated the preceding. The latitude of 
the island of Patooan by observation was 2° 16' : we were 
thus due west of Magungo, and east of Karuma Falls. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES. 

WE were prisoners on the island of Patooan, as we could 
not procure porters at any price to remove our effects. 
We had lost all our riding oxen within a few days ; they 
had succumbed to the flies, and the only animal alive was 
already half dead ; this was the little bull that had always 
carried the boy Saat. It was the 8th April, and within a 
few days the boats upon which we depended for our return 
to civilization would assuredly quit Gondokoro. I offered 
the natives all the beads that I had (about 50 lbs.) and 
the whole of my baggage, if they would carry us to Shooa 
direct from this spot. We were in perfect despair, as -we 
were both completely worn out with fever and fatigue, and 
certain death seemed to stare us in the face should we 
remain in this unhealthy spot ; worse than death was the 
idea of losing the boats and becoming prisoners for another 
year in this dreadful land ; which must inevitably happen 
should we not hurry direct to Gondokoro without delay. 
The natives, with their usual cunning, at length offered to 
convey us to Shooa, provided that I paid them the beads 
in advance ; the boats were prepared to ferry us across the 
river, but I fortunately discovered through the woman 
Bacheeta their treacherous intention of placirjg us on the 
uninhabited wilderness on the north side, and leaving us to 
die of hunger. They had conspired together to land us, 
but to immediately return with the boats after having thus 
got rid of the incubus of their guests. 

We were in a great dilemma — had we been in good 
health, I would have forsaken everything but the guns and 
ammunition, and have marched direct to Gondokoro on 
foot : but this was utterly impossible ; neither my wife noi 






Chap. XIII.] DETERMINE TO PROCEED. 347 

I could walk a quarter of a mile without fainting — there 
was no guide — and the country was now overgrown with 
impenetrable grass and tangled vegetation eight feet high ; 
— we were in the midst of the rainy season — not a day 
passed without a few hours of deluge ; — altogether it was 
a most heartbreaking position. Added to the distress of 
mind at being thus thwarted, there was also a great scarcity 
of provision. Many of my men were weak, the whole party 
having suffered much from fever — in fact, we were com- 
pletely helpless. 

Our guide Eabonga, who had accompanied us from 
M'rooli, had absconded, and we were left to shift for our- 
selves. I was determined not to remain on the island, as 
I suspected that the boats might be taken away, and that 
we should be kept prisoners ; I therefore ordered my men 
to take the canoes, and to ferry us to the main land, from 
whence we had come. The headman, upon hearing this 
order, offered to carry us to a village, and then to await 
orders from Kamrasi as to whether we were to be for- 
warded to Shooa or not. The district in which the island 
of Patooan was situated was called Shooa Moru, although 
having no connexion with the Shooa in the Madi country 
to which we were bound. 

We were ferried across to the main shore, and both in 
our respective angareps were carried by the natives for 
about three miles : arriving at a deserted village, half of 
which was in ashes, having been burnt and plundered by 
the enemy, we were deposited on the ground in front of 
an old hut in the pouring rain, and were informed that we 
should remain there that night, but that on the following 
morning we should proceed to our destination. 

Not trusting the natives, I ordered my men to disarm 
them, and to retain their spears and shields as security for 
their appearance on the following day. This effected, we 
were carried into a filthy hut about six inches deep in 
mud, as the roof was much out of repair, and the heavy 
rain had flooded it daily for some weeks. I had a canal 
cut through the muddy floor, and in misery and low spirits 
we took possession. 



348 DESERTED BY THE NATIVES. [Chap. XIII. 

On the following morning not a native was present ! 
We had been entirely deserted ; although I held the spears 
and shields, every man had absconded — there were neither 
inhabitants nor provisions — the whole country was a wil- 
derness of rank grass that hemmed us in on all sides ; not 
an animal, nor even a bird, was to be seen; it was a 
miserable, damp, lifeless country. We were on elevated 
ground, and the valley of the Somerset was about two miles 
to our north, the river roaring sullenly in its obstructed 
passage, its course marked by the double belt of huge dark 
trees that grew upon its banks. 

My men were naturally outrageous, and they proposed 
that we should return to Patooan, seize the canoes, and 
take provisions by force, as we had been disgracefully 
deceived. The natives had merely deposited us here to 
get us out of the way, and in this spot we might starve. 
Of course I would not countenance the proposal of seizing 
provisions, but I directed my men to search among the 
ruined villages for buried corn, in company with the 
woman Bacheeta, who, being a native of this country, 
would be up to the ways of the people, and might assist in 
the discovery. 

After some hours passed in rambling over the black 
ashes of several villages that had been burnt, they dis- 
covered a hollow place, by sounding the earth with a stick, 
and, upon digging, they arrived at a granary of the seed 
known as " tullaboon;" this was a great prize, as, although 
mouldy and bitter, it would keep us from starving. The 
women of the party were soon hard at work grinding, 
as many of the necessary stones had been found among 
the ruins. 

Fortunately there were three varieties of plants growing 
wild in great profusion, that, when boiled, were a good 
substitute for spinach; thus we were rich in vegetables, 
although without a morsel of fat or animal food. Our 
dinner consisted daily of a mess of black porridge of bitter 
mouldy flour, that no English pig would condescend to 
notice, and a large dish of spinach. " Better a dinner of 
herbs where love is," &c. often occurred to me ; but I am 



Chap. XIII.] HARD FARE. 349 

not sure that I was quite of that opinion after a fortnight's 
grazing upon spinach. 

Tea and coffee were things of the past, the very idea of 
which made our mouths water; but I found a species of 
wild thyme growing in the jungles, and this, when boiled, 
formed a tolerable substitute for tea; sometimes our men 
procured a little wild honey, which, added to the thyme 
tea, we considered a great luxury. 

This wretched fare, in our exhausted state from fever 
and general effects of climate, so completely disabled us, 
that for nearly two months my wife lay helpless on one 
angarep, and I upon the other ; neither of us could walk. 
The hut was like all in Kamrasi's country, a perfect forest 
of thick poles to support the roof (I counted thirty-two) ; 
thus, although it was tolerably large, there was but little 
accommodation. These poles we now found very con- 
venient, as we were so weak, that we could not rise from 
bed without hauling by one of the supports. 

We were very nearly dead, and our amusement was a 
childish conversation about the good things in England, 
and my idea of perfect happiness was an English beef- 
steak and a bottle of pale ale ; for such a luxury I would 
most wilhngly have sold my birthright at that hungry 
moment. We were perfect skeletons ; and it was annoying 
to see how we suffered upon the bad fare, while our men 
apparently throve. There were plenty of wild red peppers, 
and the men seemed to enjoy a mixture of porridge and 
legumes a la sauce fiqiiante. They were astonished at my 
falling away on this food, but they yielded to my argument 
when I suggested that a " lion would starve where a donkey 
grew fat." I must confess that this state of existence did 
not improve my temper, which, I fear, became nearly as 
bitter as the porridge. My people had a windfall of luck, 
as Saat's ox, that had lingered for a long time, lay down to 
die, and stretching himself out, commenced kicking his last 
kick; the men immediately assisted him by cutting his 
throat, and this supply of beef was a luxury which, even in 
my hungry state, was not the English beefsteak for which 
I sighed ; and I declined the diseased bull. 



350 PREPARATION FOR DEATH. [Chap. XIII 

The men made several long excursions through the 
country to endeavour to purchase provisions, but in two 
months they procured only two kids ; the entire country 
was deserted, owing to the war between Kamrasi and 
Eowooka. Every day the boy Saat and the woman 
Bacheeta sallied out and conversed with the inhabitants of 
the different islands on the river ; sometimes, but very 
rarely, they returned with a fowl ; such an event caused 
great rejoicing. 

We had now given up all hope of Gondokoro, and were 
perfectly resigned to our fate ; this, we felt sure, was to be 
buried in Chopi. I wrote instructions in my journal, in 
case of death, and told my headman to be sure to deliver 
my maps, observations, and papers to the English Consul 
at Khartoum ; this was my only care, as I feared that all 
my labour might be lost should I die. I had no fear for 
my wife, as she was quite as bad as I, and if one should 
die, the other would certainly follow ; in fact, this had 
been agreed upon, lest she should fall into the hands of 
Kamrasi at my death. We had struggled to win, and I 
thanked God that we had won; if death were to be the 
price, at all events we were at the goal, and we both 
looked upon death rather as a pleasure, as affording rest; 
there would be no more suffering; no fever; no long 
journey before us, that in our weak state was an infliction; 
the only wish was to lay down the burthen. 

Curious is the warfare between the animal instincts and 
the mind ! Death would have been a release that I would 
have courted, but I should have liked that one " English 
beefsteak and pale ale " before I died ! During our misery 
of constant fever and starvation at Shooa Morii, insult had 
been added to injury. There was no doubt that we had 
been thus deserted by Kamrasi's orders, as every seven or 
eight days one of his chiefs arrived, and told me that the 
king was with his army only four days' march from me, 
and that he was preparing to attack Eowooka, but that 
he wished me to join him, as with my fourteen guns we 
should win a great victory. This treacherous conduct, 
after his promise to forward me without delay to Shooa, 



Chap. XIII.] THE BAIT TAKES. 351 

enraged me exceedingly. We had lost the boats at Gondo- 
koro, and we were now nailed to the country for another 
year, should we live, which was not likely ; not only had 
the brutal king thus deceived us, but he was deliberately 
starving us into conditions, his aim being that my men 
should assist him against his enemy. At one time the old 
enemy tempted me sorely to join Fowooka against Kamrasi; 
but, discarding the idea, generated in a moment of passion, 
I determined to resist his proposals to the last. It was 
perfectly true that the king was within thirty miles of us, 
that he was aware of our misery ; and he made use of our 
extremity to force us to become his allies. 

After more than two months passed in this distress it 
became evident that something must be done ; I sent my 
headman, or vakeel, and one man, with a native as a guide 
(that Saat and Bacheeta had procured from an island), 
with instructions to go direct to Kamrasi, to abuse him 
thoroughly in my name for having thus treated us, and 
tell him that I was much insulted at his treating with me 
through a third party in proposing an alliance. Mv vakeel 
was to explain that I was a much more powerful chief 
than Kamrasi, and that if he required my alliance, he 
must treat with me in person, and immediately send fifty 
men to transport my wife, myself, and effects to his camp, 
where we might, in a personal interview, come to terms. 

I told my vakeel to return to me with the fifty men, and 
to be sure to bring from Kamrasi some token by which I 
should know that he had actually seen him. The vakeel 
and Taseen started. 

After some days, the absconded guide, Kabonga, ap- 
peared with a number of men, but without either my 
vakeel or Yaseen. He carried with him a small gourd 
bottle, carefully stopped ; this he broke, and extracted 
from the inside two pieces of printed paper, that Kamrasi 
had sent to me in reply. 

On examining the papers, I found them to be portions 
of the English Church Service translated into (I think) the 
" Kisiiahili " language, by Dr. Krapf ! There were many 
notes in pencil on the margin, written in English, as trans- 



352 WE ABE CARRIED TO THE KING'S CAMP. [Chap. XIII. 

lations of words in the text. It quickly occurred to me 
that Speke must have given this book to Kamrasi on his 
arrival from Zanzibar, and that he now extracted the 
leaves, and sent them to me as the token I had demanded 
to show that my message had been delivered to him. 

Eabonga made a lame excuse for his previous desertion ; 
he delivered a thin ox that Kamrasi had sent me, and he 
declared that his orders were, that he should take my 
whole party immediately to Kamrasi, as he was anxious 
that we should attack Fowooka without loss of time ; we 
were positively to start on the following morning ! My 
bait had taken ! and we should escape from this frightful 
spot, Shooa Morii. 

On the following morning we were carried in our litters 
by a number of men. The ox had been killed, the whole 
party had revelled in good food, and a supply sufficient 
for the journey was taken by my men. 

Without inflicting the tedium of the journey upon the 
reader, it will be sufficient to say that the country was the 
same as usual, being a vast park overgrown with immense 
grass. Every day the porters bolted, and we were left 
deserted at the charred ruins of various villages that had 
been plundered by Fowooka's people. It poured with 
rain ; there was no cover, as all the huts had been burnt, 
and we were stricken with severe fever daily. However, 
after five days of absurdly slow marching, the roar of the 
rapids being distinctly audible at night, we arrived one 
morning at a deserted camp of about 3,000 huts, which 
were just being ignited by several natives. This had 
been Kamrasi' s head-quarters, which he had quitted, and 
according to native custom it was to be destroyed by fire. 
It was reported, that the king had removed to another 
position within an hour's march, and that he had con- 
structed a new camp. Although throughout the journey 
from Shooa Morii the country had been excessively wild 
and uncultivated, this neighbourhood was a mass of 
extensive plantain groves and burnt villages, but every 
plantain-tree had been cut through the middle and 
recklessly destroyed. This destruction had been perpe- 



Chap. XIII.] WELCOME BY IBRAHIM'S MEN. 353 

trated by Fowooka's people, who had invaded the country, 
but had retreated on the advance of Kamrasi's army. 

After winding through dense jungles of bamboos and 
interminable groves of destroyed plantains, we perceived 
the tops of a number of grass huts appearing among the 
trees. My men now begged to be allowed to fire a salute, 
as it was reported that the ten men of Ibrahim's party 
who had been left as hostages were quartered at this 
village with Kamrasi. Hardly had the firing commenced, 
when it was immediately replied to by the Turks from 
their camp, who, upon our approach, came out to meet us 
with great manifestations of delight and wonder at our 
having accomplished our long and difficult voyage. 

My vakeel and Yaseen were the first to meet us, with 
an apology that severe fever had compelled them to 
remain in camp instead of returning to Shooa Moru 
according to my orders, but they had delivered my 
message to Kamrasi, who had, as I had supposed, sent 
two leaves out of a book Speke had given him, as a 
reply. An immense amount of news had to be exchanged 
between my men and those of Ibrahim ; they had quite 
given us up for lost, until they heard that we were at 
Shooa Moru. A report had reached them that my wife 
was dead, and that I had died a few days later. A great 
amount of kissing and embracing took place, Arab fashion, 
between the two parties ; and they all came to kiss my 
hand and that of my wife, with the exclamation, that 
" By Allah, no woman in the world had a heart so tough 
as to dare to face what she had gone through." " El hamd 
el Illah ! El hamd el Illah bel salaam ! " (" Thank God — 
be grateful to God"), was exclaimed on all sides by the 
swarthy throng of brigands who pressed round us, really 
glad to welcome us back again ; and I could not help 
thinking of the difference in their manner now and 
fourteen months ago, when they had attempted to drive us 
back from Gondokoro. 

On entering the village I found a hut prepared for me 
by the orders of my vakeel : it was very small, and I 
immediately ordered a fence and courtyard to be con- 

A A 



354 KAMRASI SEEKS MY ALLIANCE. [Chap. XIII. 

structed. There were great numbers of natives, and a 
crowd of noisy fellows pressed around us that were only 
dispersed by a liberal allowance of the stick, well laid 
on by the Turks, who were not quite so mild in 
their ways as my people. A fat ox was immediately 
slaughtered by the vakeel commanding the Turks' party, 
and a great feast was soon in preparation, as our people 
were determined to fraternize. 

Hardly were we seated in our hut, when my vakeel 
announced that Kamrasi had arrived to pay me a visit. 
In a few minutes he was ushered into the hut. Ear from 
being abashed, he entered with a loud laugh totally 
different to his former dignified manner. " Well, here 
you are at last!" he exclaimed. Apparently highly 
amused with our wretched appearance, he continued, 
" So you have been to the M'wootan ISPzige ! well, you 
don't look much the better for it ; why, I should not have 
known you! ha, ha, ha!" I was not in a humour to 
enjoy his attempts at facetiousness ; I therefore told him, 
that he had behaved disgracefully and meanly, and that I 
should publish his character among the adjoining tribes 
as below that of the most petty chief that I had ever 
seen. " Never mind," he replied, " it's all over now ; you 
really are thin, both of you ; — it was your own fault ; why 
did you not agree to fight Fowooka ? You should have 
been supplied with fat cows and milk and butter, had 
you behaved well. I will have my men ready to 
attack Fowooka to-morrow ; — the Turks have ten men ; 
you have thirteen ; — thirteen and ten make twenty-three ;■ 
— you shall be carried if you can't walk, and we will give 
Fowooka no chance — he must be killed — only kill him, 
and my brother will give you half of his kingdom." He 
continued, "You shall have supplies to-morrow; I will 
go to my brother, who is the great M'Kamma Kamrasi, 
and he will send you all you require. I am a little man, 
he is a big one ; I have nothing ; he has everything, and 
he longs to see you ; you must go to him directly, he lives 
close by." I hardly knew whether he was drunk or sober 
— " my brother the great M'Kamma Kamrasi ! " I felt 



Chap. XIII] M'GAMBI HAS IMPERSONATED THE KING. 355 

bewildered with astonishment : then, " If you are not 
Kamrasi, pray who are you ?" I asked. "Who am I?" he 
replied, " ha, ha, ha ! that's very good ; who am I ? — why 
I am M'Gambi, the brother of Kamrasi, — I am the younger 
brother, but he is the King." 

The deceit of this country was incredible — I had 
positively never seen the real Kamrasi up to this moment, 
and this man M'Gambi now confessed to having imper- 
sonated the king his brother, as Kamrasi was afraid that 
I might be in league with Debono's people to murder him, 
and therefore he had ordered his brother M'Gambi to act 
the king. 

I now remembered, that the woman Bacheeta had on 
several occasions during the journey told us that the 
Kamrasi we had seen was not the true M,Kamma Kamrasi ; 
but at the time I had paid little attention to her, as she 
was constantly grumbling, and I imagined that this was 
merely said in ill temper, referring to her murdered master 
Sali as the rightful king. 

I called the vakeel of the Turks, Eddrees : he said, that 
he also had heard long since that M'Gambi was not 
Kamrasi as we had all supposed, but that he had never 
seen the great king, as M'Gambi had always acted as 
viceroy; he confirmed the accounts I had just received, 
that the real Kamrasi was not far from this village, the 
name of which was "Kisoona." I told M'Gambi that I 
did not wish to see his brother the king, as I should 
perhaps be again deceived and be introduced to some 
impostor like himself; and that as I did not choose to be 
made a fool of, I should decline the introduction. This 
distressed him exceedingly ; he said, that the " king was 
really so great a man that he, his own brother, dared not 
sit on a stool in his presence, and that he had only kept in 
retirement as a matter of precaution, as Debono's people 
had allied themselves with his enemy Eionga in the pre- 
ceding year, and he dreaded treachery." I laughed con- 
temptuously at M'Gambi, telling him that if a woman 
like my wife dared to trust herself far from her own 
country among such savages as Kamrasi's people, their 

aa 2 



356 THE REAL KAMRASL [Chap. XIII. 

king must be weaker than a woman if lie dare not show 
himself in his own territory. I concluded by saying, that 
I should not go to see Kamrasi, but that he should come 
to visit me. M'Gambi promised to send a good cow on 
the following morning, as we had not tasted milk for some 
months, and we were in great want of strengthening food. 
He took his leave, having received a small present of 
minute beads of various colours. 

I could not help wondering at the curious combination 
of pride and abject cowardice that had been displayed by 
the redoubted Kamrasi ever since our first entrance to his 
territory. Speke when at Gondokoro had told me how 
he had been kept waiting for fifteen days before the king 
had condescended to see him. I now understood that this 
delay had been occasioned more by fear than pride, and 
that, in Iris cowardice, the king fell back upon his 
dignity as an excuse for absenting himself. 

With the addition of the Turks' party we were now 
twenty-four armed men. Although they had not seen the 
real king Kamrasi, they had been well treated since 
Ibrahim's departure, having received each a present of 
a young slave girl as a wife, while, as a distinguishing 
mark of royal favour, the vakeel Eddrees had received 
tw(j wives instead of one ; they had also received regular 
supplies of flour and beef — the latter in the shape of a 
fat ox presented every seventh day, together with a liberal 
supply of plantain cider. 

On the following morning after my arrival at Kisoona, 
M'Gambi appeared, beseeching me to go and visit the 
king. I replied that " I was hungry and weak from want 
of food, and that I wanted to see meat, and not the man 
who had starved me." In the afternoon a beautiful cow 
appeared with her young calf, also a fat sheep, and two 
pots of plantain cider, as a present from Kamrasi. That 
evening we revelled in milk, a luxury that we had not 
tasted for some months. The cow gave such a quantity 
that we looked forward to the establishment of a dairy, 
and already contemplated cheese-making. I sent the king 
a present of a pound of powder in canister, a box of caps, 






Chap. XIII.] THE BEGGING ENVOY. 357 

and a variety of trifles, explaining that I was quite out 
of stores and presents, as I had been kept so long in his 
country that I was reduced to beggary, as I had expected 
to have returned to my own country long before this. 

In the evening, M'Gambi appeared with a message from 
the king, saying that I was his greatest friend, and that 
he would not think of taking anything from me, as he 
was sure that I must be hard up ; that he desired nothing, 
but would be much obliged if I would give him the 
'little double rifle that I always carried, and my watch 
and compass!" He wanted "nothing" only my Fletcher 
rifle, that I would as soon have parted with as the bone of 
my arm : and these three articles were the same for which 
I had been so pertinaciously bored before my departure 
from M'roolL It was of no use to be wroth; I therefore 
quietly replied that " I should not give them, as Kamrasi 
had failed in his promise to forward me to Shooa; but 
that I required no presents from him, as he always 
expected a thousandfold in return." M'Gambi said that 
all would be right if I would only agree to pay the king 
a visit. I objected to this, as I told him the king, his 
brother, did not want to see me, but only to observe what 
I had, in order to beg for all that he saw. He appeared 
much hurt, and assured me that he would be himself 
responsible that nothing of the kind should happen, and 
that he merely begged as a favour that I would visit the 
king on the following morning, and that people should 
be ready to carry me if I were unable to walk. Accord- 
ingly I arranged to be carried to Kamrasi's camp at 
about 8 A.M. 

At the hour appointed M'Gambi appeared, with a great 
crowd of natives. My clothes were in rags, — and as 
personal appearance has a certain effect, even in Central 
Africa, I determined to present myself to the king in as 
favourable a light as possible. I happened to possess a 
full-dress Highland suit that I had worn when I lived in 
Perthshire many years ago ; this I had treasured as ser- 
viceable upon an occasion like the present ; — accordingly 
I was quickly attired in kilt, sporran, and Glengarry 



358 CARRIED TO TEE CAMP OF KAMRASI. [Chap. XIII. 

bonnet, and to the utter amazement of the crowd, the 
ragged-looking object that had arrived in Kisoona now 
issued from the obscure hut, with plaid and kilt of Athole 
tartan. A general shout of exclamation arose from the 
assembled crowd ; and taking my seat upon an angarep, I 
was immediately shouldered by a number of men, and 
attended by ten of my people as escort, I was carried 
towards the camp of the great Kamrasi. 

In about half an hour We arrived. The camp, composed 
of grass huts, extended over a large extent of ground, and 
the approach was perfectly black with the throng that 
crowded to meet me. Women, children, dogs, and men all 
thronged at the entrance of the street that led to Kam- 
rasi's residence. Pushing our way through this inquisitive 
multitude, we continued through the camp until at length 
we reached the dwelling of the king. Halting for the 
moment, a message was immediately received that we 
should proceed ; we accordingly entered through a narrow 
passage between high reed fences, and I found myself in 
the presence of the actual king of Unyoro, Kamrasi. He 
was sitting in a kind of porch in front of a hut, and upon 
seeing me he hardly condescended to look at me for more 
than a moment; he then turned to his attendants and 
made some remark that appeared to amuse them, as they 
all grinned as little men are wont to do when a great man 
makes a bad joke. 

I had ordered one of my men to carry my stool ; I was 
determined not to sit upon the earth, as the king would 
glory in my humiliation. M'Gambi, his brother, who had 
formerly played the part of king, now sat upon the ground 
a few feet from Kamrasi, who was seated upon the same 
stool of copper that M'Gambi had used when I first saw 
him at M'rooli. Several of his chiefs also sat upon the 
straw with which the porch was littered. I made a 
" salaam," and took my seat upon my stool. Not a word 
passed between us for about five minutes, during which 
time the king eyed me most attentively, and made various 
remarks to the chiefs who were present ; at length he 
asked me why I had not been to see him before? I 



Chap. XIIL] DESCRIPTION OF KAMRASI. 359 

replied, " Because I had been starved in his country, and 
I was too weak to walk." He said — I should soon be 
strong, as he would now give me a good supply of food, 
but that he could not send provisions to Shooa Mora, 
as Fowooka held that country. Without replying to this 
wretched excuse for his neglect, I merely told him that 
I was happy to have seen him before my departure, as 
I was not aware until recently that I had been duped 
by M'&ambi. He answered me very coolly, saying that 
although I had not seen him he had nevertheless seen 
me, as he was among the crowd of native escort on the 
day that we left M'rooli. Thus he had watched our start 
at the very place where his brother M'G-ambi had imper- 
sonated the king. 

Kamrasi was a remarkably fine man, tall and well 
proportioned, with a handsome face of a dark brown 
colour, but a peculiarly sinister expression ; he was beau- 
tifully clean, and instead of wearing the bark cloth 
common among the people, he was dressed in a fine 
mantle of black and white goat-skins, as soft as chamois 
leather. His people sat on the ground at some distance 
from his throne ; when they approached to address him 
on any subject they crawled upon their hands and knees 
to his feet, and touched the ground with their foreheads. 

True to his natural instincts, the king commenced 
begging, and being much struck with the Highland cos- 
tume, he demanded it as a proof of friendship, saying, 
that if I refused I could not be his friend. The watch, 
compass, and double Fletcher rifle were asked for in their 
turn, all of which I refused to give him. He appeared 
much annoyed, therefore I presented him with a pound 
canister of powder, a box of caps, and a few bullets. He 
replied, " What's the use of the ammunition if you won't 
give me your rifle?" I explained that I had already 
given him a gun, and that he had a rifle of Speke's. 
Disgusted with his importunity I rose to depart, telling 
him that " I should not return to visit him, as I did . not 
believe he was the real Kamrasi I had heard that 
Kamrasi was a great king, but that he was a mere beggar, 



360 AT HOME IN KISOONJ. [Chap. XIV. 

and was doubtless an impostor, like M'Gambi." At this 
he seemed highly amused, and begged me not to leave so 
suddenly, as he could not permit me to depart empty 
handed. He then gave certain orders to his people, and 
after a little delay, two loads of flour arrived, together 
with a goat and two jars of sour plantain cider. These 
presents he ordered to be forwarded to Kisoona. I rose to 
take leave, but the crowd, eager to see what was going 
forward, pressed closely upon the entrance of the approach; 
seeing which, the king gave certain orders, and imme- 
diately four or five men with long heavy bludgeons 
rushed at the mob and belaboured them right and left, 
putting the mass to flight pele-mele through the narrow 
lanes of the camp. 

I was then carried back to my camp at Kisoona, where 
I was received by a great crowd of people. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

IT appeared that Kisoona was to be head-quarters until I 
should have an opportunity of quitting the country 
for Shooa. Therefore I constructed a comfortable little 
hut surrounded by a courtyard strongly fenced, in which 
I arranged a Eakooba, or open shed, in which to sit during 
the hottest hours of the day. 

My cow that I had received from Kamrasi gave plenty 
of milk, and every second day we were enabled to make a 
small cheese about the size of a six-pound cannon-shot. 
The abundance of milk made a- rapid change in our 
appearance ; and Kisoona, although a place of complete 
''■ ennui," was a delightful change after the privations of the 
last four months. Every week the king sent me an ox and 
a quantity of flour for myself and people, and the whole 
party grew fat. We used the milk native fashion, never 
drinking it until curdled ;-— taken in this form it will 



Chap XIV.] SYSTEM OF FATTENING. 361 

agree with the most delicate stomach, hut if used fresh in 
large quantities it induces "biliousness. The young girls of 
thirteen -and fourteen that are the wives of the king are 
not appreciated unless extremely fat — they are subjected 
to a regular system of fattening in order to increase their 
charms ; thus at an early age they are compelled to drink 
daily about a gallon of curded milk, the swallowing of 
which is frequently enforced by the whip ; the result is 
extreme obesity. In hot climates milk will curdle in two 
or three hours if placed in a vessel that has previously 
contained sour milk. When curdled it should be well 
beaten together until it assumes the appearance of cream ; 
in this state, if seasoned with a little salt, it is most 
nourishing and easy of digestion. The Arabs invariably 
use it in this manner, and improve it by the addition of 
red pepper. The natives of Unyoro will not eat red 
pepper, as they believe that men and women become barren 
by its use. 

Although the fever had so completely taken possession 
of me that I was subject to an attack almost daily, the 
milk fattened me extremely, and kept up my strength, 
which otherwise must have failed. The change from star- 
vation to good food produced a marvellous effect. Curious 
as it may appear, although we were in a land of plantains, 
the ripe fruit was in the greatest scarcity. The natives in- 
variably eat them unripe, the green fruit when boiled being 
a fair substitute for potatoes — the ripe plantains were used 
for brewing plantain cider, but they were never eaten. 
The method of cider-making was simple. The fruit was 
buried in a deep hole and covered with straw and earth ; — 
at the expiration of about eight days the green plantains 
thus interred had become ripe ; — they were then peeled 
and pulped within a large wooden trough resembling a 
canoe ; this was rilled with water, and the pulp being well 
mashed and stirred, it was left to ferment for two days, 
after which time it was fit to drink. 

Throughout the country of Unyoro, plantains in various 
forms were the staple article of food, upon which the 
inhabitants placed more dependence than upon all other 



362 NATIVE MANUFACTURES. [Chap. XIV. 

crops. The green plantains were not only used as potatoes, 
but when peeled they were cut in thin slices and dried in 
the sun until crisp ; in this state they were stored in the 
granaries, and when required for use they were boiled into 
a pulp and made into a most palatable soup or stew. 
Flour of plantains was remarkably good ; this was made 
by grinding the fruit when dried as described ; it was then, 
as usual with all other articles in that country, most beau- 
tifully packed in long narrow parcels, either formed of 
plantain bark or of the white interior of rushes worked 
into mats. This bark served as brown paper, but had the 
advantage of being waterproof. The fibre of the plantain 
formed both thread and cord, thus the principal require- 
ments of the natives were supplied by this most useful 
tree. The natives were exceedingly clever in working 
braid from the plantain fibre, which was of so fine a texture 
that it had the appearance of a hair chain ; nor could the 
difference be detected without a close examination. Small 
bags netted with the same twine were most delicate, and in 
all that was produced in Unyoro there was a remarkably 
good taste displayed in the manufacture. 

The beads most valued were the white opal, the red 
porcelain, and the minute varieties generally used for 
working on screens in England ; these small beads* of 
various colours were much esteemed, and were worked 
into pretty ornaments, about the shape of a walnut, to be 
worn suspended from the neck. I had a small quantity 
of the latter variety that I presented to Kamrasi, who 
prized them as we should value precious stones. 

Not only were the natives clever generally in their 
ideas, but they were exceedingly cunning in their bargains. 
Every morning, shortly after sunrise, men might be heard 
crying their wares throughout the camp — such as, " Tobacco, 
tobacco ; two packets going for either beads or simbis ! " 
(cowrie-shells). " Milk to sell . for beads or salt ! " "Salt 
to exchange for lance-heads ! " " Coffee, coffee, going 
cheap for red beads ! " " Butter for five jenettos (red 
beads) a lump ! " 

* These were given to me by Speke at Gcmdokoro. 



Chap. XIV.] KNAVERY OF NATIVE BUTTER DEALERS. 363 

The butter was invariably packed in a plantain leaf, but 
frequently the package was plastered with cow dung and 
clay, which, when dry, formed a hard coating, and pro- 
tected it from the air ; this gave it a bad flavour, and we 
returned it to the dealer as useless. A short time after, he 
returned with fresh butter in a perfectly new green leaf, 
and we were requested to taste it. Being about the size 
and shape of a cocoa-nut, and wrapped carefully in a leaf 
with only the point exposed, I of course tasted from that 
portion, and approving the flavour, the purchase was com- 
pleted. We were fairly cheated, as the butter dealer had 
packed the old rejected butter in a fresh leaf, and had 
placed a small piece of sweet butter on the top as a tasting 
point. They constantly attempted this trick. 

As retailers they took extraordinary pains to divide 
everything into minimum packets, which they sold for a 
few beads, always declaring that they had only one packet 
to dispose of, but immediately producing another when 
that was sold. This method of dealing was exceedingly 
troublesome, as it was difficult to obtain supplies in any 
quantity. My only resource was to send Saat to market 
daily to purchase all he could find, and he usually returned 
after some hours' absence with a basket containing coffee, 
tobacco, and butter. 

We were comfortably settled at Kisoona, and the luxury 
of coffee after so long an abstinence was a perfect blessing. 
Nevertheless, in spite of good food, I was a martyr to fever, 
which attacked me daily at about 2 p.m. and continued 
until sunset. Being without quinine I tried vapour baths, 
and by the recommendation of one of the Turks I pounded 
and boiled a quantity of the leaves of the castor-oil plant 
in a large pot containing about four gallons : this plant 
was in great abundance. Every morning I arranged a 
bath by sitting in a blanket, thus forming a kind of tent, 
with the pot of boiling water beneath my stool. Half an 
hour passed in this intense heat produced a most profuse 
perspiration, and from the commencement of the vapour 
system the attacks of fever moderated both in violence 
and frequency. In about a fortnight, the complaint 



364 STATE VISIT FROM THE KING. [Chap. XIV. 

had so much abated that my spirits rose in equal pro- 
portion, and, although weak, I had no mortal fear of my 
old enemy. 

The king, Kamrasi, had supplied me with provisions, 
but I was troubled daily by messengers who requested me 
to appear before him to make arrangements for the pro- 
posed attack upon Eionga and Fowooka. My excuse for 
non-attendance was my weak state ; but Kamrasi deter- 
mined not to be evaded, and one day his headman Quonga 
announced that the king would pay me a visit on the 
following morning. Although I had but little remaining 
from my stock of baggage except the guns, ammunition, 
and astronomical instruments, I was obliged to hide every- 
thing underneath the beds, lest the avaricious eyes of 
Kamrasi should detect a " want." True to his appoint- 
ment, he appeared with numerous attendants, and was 
ushered into my little hut. I had a very rude but service- 
able arm-chair that one of my men had constructed ; in 
this the king was invited to sit. Hardly was he seated, 
when he leant back, stretched out his legs, and making 
some remark to his attendants concerning his personal 
comfort, he asked for the chair as a present. J promised 
to have one made for him immediately. This being 
arranged, he surveyed the barren little hut, vainly en- 
deavouring to fix his eyes upon something that he could 
demand ; but so fruitless was his search, that he laughingly 
turned to his people and said, " How was it that they 
wanted so many porters, if they had nothing to carry ? " 
My interpreter explained, that many things had been 
spoiled during the storms on the lake, and had been left 
behind ; that our provisions had long since been consumed, 
and that our clothes were worn out — thus we had nothing 
left but a few beads. " New varieties, no doubt," he 
replied ; " give me all that you have of the small blue and 
the large red ! " We had carefully hidden the main stock, 
and a few had been arranged in bags to be produced as 
the occasion might require ; these were now unpacked by 
the boy Saat and laid before the king I told him to make 
his choice, which he did precisely as I had anticipated, by 



Chap. XIV.] THE KING IN LOVE WITH A TOOTH-COMB. 365 

making presents to his surrounding friends out of my 
stock, and monopolizing the remainder for his share : the 
division of the portions among his people was a modest 
way of taking the whole, as he would immediately demand 
their return upon quitting my hut. No sooner were the 
beads secured than he repeated the original demand for 
my watch and the No. 24 double rifle ; these I resolutely 
refused. He then requested permission to see the con- 
tents of a few of the baskets and bags that formed our 
worn-out luggage. There was nothing that took his fancy 
except needles, thread, lancets, medicines, and a small 
tooth-comb ; the latter interested him exceedingly, as I 
explained that the object of the Turks in collecting ivory 
was to sell it to Europeans who manufactured it into many 
articles, among which were small tooth-combs such as he 
then examined. He could not understand how the teeth 
could be so finely cut. Upon the use of the comb being 
explained, he immediately attempted to practise upon his 
woolly head ; failing in the operation, he adapted the in- 
strument to a different purpose, and commenced scratching 
beneath the wool most vigorously : the effect being satis- 
factory, he at once demanded the comb, which was handed 
to each of the surrounding chiefs, all of whom had a trial 
of its properties, and, every head having been scratched, it 
was returned to the king, who handed it to Quonga, the 
headman that received his presents. So complete was the 
success of the comb that he proposed to send me one of 
the largest elephant's tusks, which I was to take to England 
and cut into as many small tooth-combs as it would pro- 
duce for himself and his chiefs. 

The lancets were next admired, and were declared to be 
admirably adapted for paring his nails — they were there- 
fore presented to him. Then came the investigation of the 
medicine chest, and every bottle was applied to his nose, 
and a small quantity of the contents was requested. On 
the properties .of tartar-emetic being explained, he proposed 
to swallow a dose immediately, as he had been suffering 
from headache, but as he was some distance from home 
I advised him to postpone the dose until his return ; I 



366 ATTEMPTS AT ANCIENT HISTORY. [Chap. XIV. 

accordingly made up about a dozen powders, one of which 
(three grains) he was to take that evening. 

The concave mirror, our last looking-glass, was then dis- 
covered ; the distortion of face it produced was a great 
amusement, and after it had been repeatedly handed round, 
it was added to his presents. More gunpowder was de- 
manded, and a pound canister and a box of caps were 
presented to him, but I 'positively refused the desired 
bullets. 

To change the conversation, I inquired whether he or 
any of his people knew from whence their race originated, 
as their language and appearance were totally different to 
the tribes that I had visited from the north. He told me 
that he knew his grandfather, whose name was Cherry- 
bambi, but that he knew nothing of the history of the 
country, except that it had formerly been a very extensive 
kingdom, and that Uganda and Utumbi had been com- 
prised in the country of Kitwara with Unyoro and Chopi. 
The kingdom of Kitwara extended from the frontier of 
Karagwe^ to the Victoria Nile at Magungo, and Karuma, 
bounded on all sides but the south by that river and the 
Victoria and the Albert lakes ; the latter lake forming the 
western frontier. During the reign of Cherrybambi, the 
province of Utumbi revolted, and not only became inde- 
pendent, but drove Cherrybambi from Uganda across the 
Kafoor river to Unyoro. This revolt continued until Cher- 
rybambi's death, when the father of M't^se (the present 
king of Uganda), who was a native of Utumbi, attacked 
and conquered Uganda and became king. From that time 
there has been continual war between Uganda and Unyoro, 
or, as Kamrasi calls his kingdom, Kitwara, that being the 
ancient name: to the present day, M't^se, the king of 
Uganda, is one of his greatest enemies. It was in vain 
that I attempted to trace his descent from the Gallas ; 
both upon this and other occasions he and his people 
denied all knowledge of their ancient history. 

He informed me that Chopi had also revolted after the 
death of Cherrybambi, and that he had reconquered it only 
ten or twelve years ago, but that even now the natives 



Chap. XIV.] KJMRASPS REQUEST. 367 

were not to be trusted, as many had leagued with Fowooka 
and Eionga, whose desire was to annex Ghopi and to form 
a separate kingdom: these chiefs had possession of the 
river islands, which strongholds it was impossible to attack 
without guns, as the rapids were so dangerous that canoes 
could only approach by a certain passage. 

Kamrasi expressed his determination to kill both of the 
refractory chiefs, as he would have no rest during their 
lives ; he disclaimed all relationship with Eionga, who had 
been represented to Speke as his brother, and he con- 
cluded by requesting me to assist him in an attack upon 
the river islands, promising that if I should kill Fowooka and 
Eionga he would give me a large portion of his territory. 

He suggested that I should stand upon a high cliff that 
commanded Fowooka's island; from that point I could 
pick off not only the chief, but all his people, by firing 
steadily with the little double 24 rifle ; he continued even 
farther, that if I were too ill to go myself, I should lend 
him my little Fletcher 24 rifle, give him my men to assist 
his army, and he would pick off Eionga himself from the 
cliff above the river : this was his mild way of securing 
the rifle which he had coveted ever since my arrival in his 
country. I told him plainly that I could not mix myself 
up with his quarrels ; that I travelled with only one object, 
of doing good, and that I would harm no one unless in 
self-defence, therefore I could not be the aggressor ; but that 
should Fowooka and Eionga attack his position I should 
be most happy to lend my aid to repel them. Far from 
appreciating my ideas of fair play, he immediately rose 
from his chair, and without taking leave he walked out of 
the hut, attended by his people. 

The next morning I heard that he had considered himself 
poisoned by the tartar-emetic, but that he was now well 

From that day I received no supplies for myself or 
people, as the king was affronted. A week passed away, 
and I was obliged to purchase meat and flour from Eddrees, 
the lieutenant who commanded the Turks' party of nine 
men. I gave this man a double-barrelled gun, and he 
behaved well. 



368 SUDDEN INVASION OF THE COUNTRY. [Chap. XIV. 

One day I was lying upon my bed with a fit of ague, 
when it was reported that four men had arrived from 
M'tese, the king of Uganda, who wished to see me. 

Unfortunately my vakeel delayed the men for so long 
that they departed, promising to return again, having 
obtained from my people all information concerning me : 
these were spies from the king of Uganda, whose object at 
that time was unknown to us. 

The weeks passed slowly at Kisoona, as there was a 
tedious monotony in the lack of incident ; — every day was 
a repetition of the preceding. My time was passed in 
keeping a regular journal ; mapping ; and in writing letters 
to friends in England, although there was no communi- 
cation. This task afforded the greatest pleasure, as I could 
thus converse in imagination with those far away. The 
thought frequently occurred to me that they might no 
longer exist, and that the separation of years might be the 
parting for ever ; nevertheless there was a melancholy satis- 
faction at thus blankly corresponding with those whom I 
had loved in former years. Thus the time slowly ebbed 
away ; the maps were perfected ; information that I had 
received was confirmed by the repeated examination of 
natives ; and a few little black children who were allowed 
to run about our courtyard like so many puppies afforded 
a study of the African savage in embryo. This monotony 
was shortly disturbed. 

At about 9 p.m. one night we were suddenly disturbed 
by a tremendous din — hundreds of nogaras were beating, 
horns blowing, and natives screaming in all directions. 
I immediately jumped out of bed, and buckling on my 
belt I took my rifle and left the hut. The village was 
alive with people all dressed for war, and bearded with 
cows' tails, dancing and rushing about with shields and 
spears, attacking imaginary enemies. Bacheeta informed 
me that Fowooka's people had crossed the Nile and were 
within three hours' march of Kisoona, accompanied by a 
hundred and fifty of Debono's trading party, the same that 
had formerly attacked Kamrasi in the preceding year in 
company with Eionga's people. It was reported, that 



Chap. XIV.] ALARM AND COWARDICE OF KAMRASI. 369 

having crossed the Nile they were marching direct on 
Kisoona, with the intention of attacking the country and 
of killing Kamrasi. M'Gambi, the brother of Kamrasi, 
whose hut was only twenty yards distant, immediately 
3ame to me with the news : he was in a state of great 
alarm, and was determined to run off to the king imme- 
diately to recommend his flight. After some time I suc- 
ceeded, in convincing him that this was unnecessary, and 
that I might, be of great service in this dilemma if Kam- 
rasi would come personally to me early on the following 
morning. 

The sun had just risen, when the king unceremoniously 
marched into my hut ; — he was no longer the dignified 
monarch of Kitwara clothed in a beautiful mantle of fine 
skins, but he wore nothing but a short kilt of blue baize 
that Speke had given him, and a scarf thrown across his 
shoulders. He was dreadfully alarmed, and could hardly 
be persuaded to leave his weapons outside the door, ac- 
cording to the custom of the country — these were three 
lances and a double-barrelled rifle that had been given him 
by Speke. I was much amused at his trepidation, and 
observing the curious change in his costume, I compli- 
mented him upon the practical cut of his dress, that was 
better adapted for fighting than the long and cumbrous 
mantle. " Fighting ! " he exclaimed, with the horror of 
" Bob Acres," " I am not going to fight ! I have dressed 
lightly to be able to run quickly. I mean to run away ! 
Who can fight against guns ? Those people have one 
hundred and fifty guns ; you must run with me ; we can 
do nothing against them ; you have only thirteen men ; 
Eddrees has only ten ; what can twenty-three do against a 
hundred and fifty ? Pack up your things and run ; we 
must be off into the high grass and hide at once; the 
enemy is expected every moment ! " 

I never saw a man in such a deplorable state of abject 
fright, and I coidd not help laughing aloud at the miser- 
able coward who represented a kingdom. Calling my 
headman, I ordered him to hoist the English ensign on 
my tall flag-staff in the courtyard. In a few moments the 

B B 



3J0 DIPLOMATIC ARRANGEMENT. [Chap. XIV. 

old flag was waving in a brisk breeze and floating over my 
little hut. There is something that warms the heart in 
the sight of the Union Jack when thousands of miles away 
from the old country. I now explained to Kamrasi that 
both he and his country were under the protection of that 
flag, which was the emblem of England ; and that so long 
as he trusted to me, although I had refused to join him in 
attacking Fowooka, he should see that I was his true ally, 
as I would defend him against all attacks. I told him to 
send a large quantity of supplies into my camp, and to 
procure guides immediately, as I should send some of my 
men without delay to the enemy's camp with a message to 
the vakeel of Debono's party. Slightly reassured by this 
arrangement, he called Quonga, and ordered him to pro- 
cure two of his chiefs to accompany my men. The best of 
his men, Cassave\ appeared immediately ; — this was a 
famous fellow, who had always been civil and anxious to 
do his duty both to his master and to me. I summoned 
Eddrees, and ordered him to send four of his men with an 
equal number of mine to the camp of Fowooka to make 
a report of the invading force, and to see whether it was 
true that Debono's people were arrived as invaders. In 
half an hour from the receipt of my order, the party 
started ; — eight well-armed men accompanied by about 
twenty natives of Kamrasi's with two days' provisions. 
Kisoona was about ten miles from the Victoria Nile. 

At about 5 p.m. on the following day my men returned, 
accompanied by ten men and a choush, or sergeant, of De- 
bono's party ; — they had determined to prove whether I 
was actually in the country, as they had received a report 
some months ago that both my wife and I were dead ; — 
they imagined that the men that I had sent to their camp 
were those of the rival party belonging to Ibrahim, who 
wished to drive them out of Kamrasi's country by using 
my name. However, they were now undeceived, as the 
first object that met their view was the English flag on 
the high flag-staff, and they were shortly led into my 
courtyard, where they were introduced to me in person. 
They sat in a half-circle around me. 



Chap. XIV.] CONFERENCE WITH DEBONO'S PARTY. 371 

Assuming great authority, I asked them how they could 
presume to attack a country under the protection of the 
British flag ? I informed them that Unyoro belonged to 
me by right of discovery, and that I had given Ibrahim 
the exclusive right to the produce of that country, on the 
condition that he should do nothing contrary to the will of 
the reigning Icing, Kamrasi; that Ibrahim had behaved 
well ; that I had been guided to the lake and had returned, 
and that we were now actually fed by the king ; and we 
were suddenly invaded by Turkish subjects in connexion 
with a hostile tribe, who thus insulted the English flag. I 
explained to them that I should not only resist any attack 
that might be made upon Kamrasi, but that I should 
report the whole affair to the Turkish authorities upon my 
return to Khartoum ; and that, should a shot be fired or a 
slave be stolen in Kamrasi's country, the leader of their 
party, Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, would be hanged. 

They replied that they were not aware that I was in the 
country; that they were allies of Fowooka, Eionga, and 
Owine, the three hostile chiefs ; that they had received 
both ivory and slaves from them on condition that they 
should kill Kamrasi ; and that, according to the custom of 
the White Mle trade, they had agreed to these conditions. 
They complained that it was very hard upon them to 
march six days through an uninhabited wilderness between 
their station at Faloro and Fowooka's islands and to return 
empty handed. In reply I told them, that they should 
carry a letter from me to their vakeel Mahommed, in 
which I should give him twelve hours from the receipt of 
my order to recross the river with his entire party and 
their allies and quit Kamrasi's country. 

They demurred to this alternative : but I shortly settled 
their objections, by ordering my vakeel to write the neces- 
sary letter, and desiring them to start before sunrise on 
the following morning. Kamrasi had been suspicious that 
I had sent for Mahommed's party to invade him because 
he had kept me starving at Shooa Mom instead of for- 
warding me to Shooa as he had promised. This suspicion 
placed me in an awkward position ; I therefore called 

bb2 



372 KAMRASI BEGS FOR THE BRITISH FLAG. [Chap. XV. 

M'Gambi (his brother) in presence of the Turks, and ex- 
plained the whole affair face to face, desiring Mahommed's 
people themselves to explain to him that they would 
retire from the country simply because I commanded 
them to do so, but that, had I not been there, they 
would have attacked him. This they repeated with a very 
bad grace, boasting, at the completion, that, were it not for 
me, they would shoot M'Gambi where he stood at that 
moment. The latter, fully aware of their good intentions, 

suddenly disappeared My letter to Mahommed was 

delivered to Suleiman Choush, the leader of his party, and 

I ordered a sheep to be killed for their supper At 

sunrise on the following morning they all departed, accom- 
panied by six of my men, who were to bring a reply to my 
letter. These people had two donkeys, and just as they 
were starting, a crowd of natives made a rush to gather a 
heap of dung that lay beneath the animals ; a great fight 
and tussle took place for the possession of this valuable 
medicine, in the midst of which the donkey lifted up 
his voice and brayed so lustily that the crowd rushed 
away with more eagerness than they had exhibited on 
arriving, alarmed at the savage voice of the unknown 
animal. It appeared that the dung of the donkey rubbed 
upon the skin was supposed to be a cure for rheumatism, 
and that this rare specific was brought from a distant 
country in the East where such animals existed. 



CHAPTEE XV. 

KAMEASI, thus freed from his invaders, was almost 
stupefied with astonishment. He immediately paid 
me a visit, and as he entered the courtyard he stopped to 
look at the flag that was gaily fluttering above him, as 
though it were a talisman. He inquired " why the Turks 
were awed by an apparent trifle." I explained that the 



Chap. XV.] THE PERTINACIOUS BEGGAR. 373 

flag was well known, and might be seen in every part of 
the world ; wherever it was hoisted it was respected, as he 
had just witnessed, even at so great a distance from home 
and unsupported, as in Unyoro. 

Seizing the opportunity, he demanded it, saying, " What 
shall I do when you leave my country and take that with 
you ? These Turks will surely return. Give me the flag, 
and they will be afraid to attack me ! " I was obliged to 
explain to him that " the respect for the British ensign had 
not been gained by running away on the approach of 
danger, as he had proposed on the arrival of the enemy, 
and that its honour could not be confided to any stranger." 
True to his uncontrollable instinct of begging, he replied, 
" If you cannot give me the flag, give me at least that little 
double-barrelled rifle that you do not require, as you are 
going home ; then I can defend myself should the Turks 
attack me." 

I was excessively disgusted; — he had just been saved 
by my intervention, and his manner of thanking me was 
by begging most pertinaciously for the rifle that I had 
refused him on more than twenty occasions. I requested 
him never to mention the subject again, as I would not 
part with it under any circumstances. Just at this moment 
I heard an uproar outside my gate, and loud screams, 
attended with heavy blows. A man was dragged past the 
entrance of the courtyard bound hand and foot, and was 
immediately cudgelled to death by a crowd of natives. 
This operation continued for some minutes, until his bones 
had been thoroughly broken up by the repeated blows of 
clubs. The body was dragged to a grove of plantains, and 
was there left for the vultures, who in a few minutes 
congregated around it. 

It appeared that the offence thus summarily punished 
was the simple act of conversing with some of the natives 
who had attended Mahommed's men from lowooka's 
island to Kisoona : a conversation with one of the enemy 
was considered high treason, and was punished with im- 
mediate death. In such cases, where either Kamrasi or his 
brother M'Gambi determined upon the sudden execution 



374 PUNISHMENT FOR HIGH TREASON. [Chap. XV. 

of a criminal, the signal was given by touching the con- 
demned with the point of a lance : this sign was the order 
that was immediately obeyed by the guards who were in 
attendance, and the culprit was beaten to death upon the 
spot. Sometimes the condemned was touched by a stick 
instead of a lance-point ; this was a signal that he should 
be killed by the lance, and the sentence was carried out 
by thrusting him through the body with numerous spears 
— thus the instrument used to slay the criminal was 
always contrary to the sign. 

On the day following this event, drums were beating, 
horns blowing, and crowds of natives were singing and 
dancing in all directions ; pots of plantain cider were dis- 
tributed, and general festivities proclaimed the joy of the 
people at the news that Mahommed's party had retreated 
across the river, according to their agreement with me. 
My men had returned with a letter from Mahommed, 
stating that he was neither afraid of Ibrahim's people nor 
of Kamrasi, but that as I claimed the country, he must 
retire. Not only had he retired with his thwarted allies, 
but, disgusted at the failure of his expedition, he had 
quarrelled with Fowooka, and had plundered him of all 
his cattle, together with a number of slaves : this termina- 
tion of the affair had so delighted Kamrasi. that he had 
ordered general rejoicings : he killed a number of oxen, 
and distributed them among his people, and intoxicated 
half the country with presents of rnaroua, or the plantain 
cider. 

Altogether Mahommed, the vakeel of Debono, had be- 
haved well to me in this affair, although rather shabbily 
to his allies : — he sent me six pieces of soap, and a few 
strings of blue beads and jenettos (red glass beads) as a 
proof that he parted with no ill feeling. 

Hardly were the Turks in retreat when Kamrasi deter- 
mined to give the finishing stroke to his enemies. He 
sent great quantities of ivory to the camp, and one evening 
his people laid about twenty tusks at my door, begging me 
to count them. I told him to give the ivory to Ibrahim's 
men, as I required nothing ; but that should Ibrahim find 



Chap. XV.] FRIGHTFUL BARBARITIES UPON CAPTIVES. 375 

a large quantity ready for him on his return to the country, 
he would do anything that he might desire. 

A few days later, whole lines of porters arrived, carrying 
enormous elephants' tusks to Eddrees, the vakeel. Early 
the next morning, Kamrasi's entire army arrived laden 
with provisions, each man carrying about 40 lbs. of flour 
in a package upon his head. The Turks' party of ten men 
joined them, and I heard that an attack was meditated 
upon Fowooka. 

A few days after the expedition had started, the Turks 
and about 1,000 natives returned. Kamrasi was overjoyed; 
they had gained a complete victory, having entirely routed 
Eowooka, and not only captured the islands and massacred 
the greater number of the inhabitants, but they had cap- 
tured all the wives of the rebel chiefs, together with a 
number of inferior slaves, and a herd of goats that had 
fortunately escaped the search of Mahommed's retreating 
party. Eowooka and Owine had escaped by crossing to 
the northern shore, but their power was irretrievably 
ruined, their villages plundered and burned, and their 
women and children captured. 

A number of old women had been taken in the general 
razzia ; these could not walk sufficiently fast to keep up 
with their victors during the return march, they had ac- 
cordingly all been killed on the road as being cumbersome: 
in every case they were killed by being beaten on the 
back of the neck with a club. Such were the brutalities 
indulged in. 

On the following morning I went to visit the captives ; 
the women were sitting in an open shed, apparently much 
dejected. I examined the hands of about fourteen, all of 
which were well shaped and beautifully soft, proving that 
they were women of high degree who never worked 
laboriously : they were for the most part remarkably good 
looking, of soft and pleasing expression, dark brown com- 
plexion, fine noses, woolly hair, and. good figures, precisely 
similar to the general style of women in Chopi and 
Unyoro. 

Among the captives was a woman with a most beautiful 



376 HORRIBLE DEATH OF SALI. [Chap. XV. 

child, a boy about twelve months old; all these were 
slaves, and the greater number were in a most pitiable 
state, being perfectly unfit for labour, having been accus- 
tomed to luxury as the women of chiefs of high position. 
Curiously enough, the woman Bacheeta, who had accom- 
panied us to visit these unfortunate captives, now recog- 
nised her former mistress, who was the wife of the 
murdered Sali; she had been captured with the wives 
and daughters of Eionga. Bacheeta immediately fell on 
her knees and crept towards her on all fours, precisely as 
the subjects of Kamrasi were accustomed to approach his 
throne. Sali had held as high a position as Fowooka, and 
had been treacherously killed by Kamrasi at M'rooli in 
the presence of Bacheeta. At that time peace had been 
established between Kamrasi and the three great chiefs, 
who were invited to a conference at M'rooli with a 
treacherous design on the part of the king. Hardly had 
they arrived, when Eionga was seized by Kamrasi's orders, 
and confined in a circular hut with high mud walls and 
no doorway ; the prisoner was hoisted up and lowered 
down through an aperture in the roof. He was condemned 
to be burnt alive on the following morning for some 
imaginary offence, while Sali and Fowooka were to be 
either pardoned or murdered, as circumstances might dic- 
tate. Sali was a great friend of Eionga, and determined 
to rescue him ; accordingly he plied the guards with drink, 
and engaged them in singing throughout the night on one 
side of the prison, while his men burrowed like rabbits 
beneath the wall on the opposite side, and rescued Eionga, 
who escaped. 

Sali showed extreme folly in remaining at M'rooli, and 
Kamrasi, suspicious of his complicity, immediately ordered 
him to be seized and cut to pieces : he was accordingly 
tied to a stake, and tortured by having his limbs cut off 
piecemeal — the hands being first severed at the wrists, and 
the arms at the elbow joints. Bacheeta was an eye-witness 
of this horrible act, and testified to the courage of Sali, 
who, while under the torture, cried out to his friends in 
the crowd, warning them to fly and save themselves, as he 



Chap. XV.] DISPUTES WITH KAMRAS1. 377 

was a dead man, and they would share his fate should they 
remain. Some escaped, including Fowooka, but many were 
massacred on the spot, and the woman Bacheeta was cap- 
tured by Kamrasi and subsequently sent by him to the 
Turks' camp at Faloro, as already described. From that 
day unremitting warfare was carried on between Kamrasi 
and the island chiefs; the climax was their defeat, and 
the capture of their women, through the assistance of the 
Turks. 

Kamrasi's delight at the victory knew no bounds ; ivory- 
poured into the camp, and a hut was actually filled with 
elephants' tusks of the largest size. Eddrees, the leader 
of the Turks' party, knowing that the victory was gained 
by the aid of his guns, refused to give up the captives on 
the demand of the king, claiming them as prisoners be- 
longing to Ibrahim, and declining any arguments upon the 
matter until his master should arrive in the country. 
Kamrasi urged that, although the guns had been of great 
service, no prisoners could have been captured without the 
aid of his canoes, that had been brought by land, dragged 
all the way from Karuma by hundreds of his people in 
readiness for the attack upon the islands. 

As usual in all cases of dispute, I was to be referee. 
Kamrasi sent his factotum Cassave in the night to my hut 
to confer with me without the Turks' knowledge ; then 
came his brother, M'Gambi, and at length, after being 
pestered daily by messengers, the great king arrived in 
person. He said that Eddrees was excessively insolent, 
and had threatened to shoot him; that he had insulted 
him when on his throne surrounded by his chiefs, and 
that, had he not been introduced into the country by me, 
he would have killed him and his men on the spot. 

I advised Kamrasi not to talk too big, as he had lately 
seen what only ten guns had effected in the fight with 
Eowooka, and he mi^ht imagine the results that would 
occur should he even hint at hostility, as the large parties 
of Ibrahim and the men of Mahommed Wat-el-Mek would 
immediately unite and destroy both him and his country, 
and place his now beaten enemy Fowooka upon his throne 



378 ADVICE TO KAMRASI. [Chap. XV. 

should a hair of a Turk's head be missing. The gallant 
Kamrasi turned almost green at the bare suggestion of this 
possibility. I advised him not to quarrel about straws, 
assuring him, that as I had become responsible for the 
behaviour of the Turks while in his country, he need have 
no fear ; but that, on the other hand, he must be both just 
and generous. If he would give them a supply of ivory, 
he might always reckon upon them as valuable allies ; but 
if he attempted to quarrel, they would assuredly destroy 
his country after my departure. Of course he requested 
me never to think of leaving him, but to take up my 
abode for life in Kitwara, promising me all that I should 
require in addition to a large territory. I replied that the 
climate did not agree with me, and that nothing would 
induce me to remain, but that, as the boats would not 
arrive at Gondokoro for six months (until February), I 
might as well reside with him as anywhere else. At the 
same time, I assured him that his professed friendship for 
me was a delusion, as he only regarded me as a shield 
between him and danger. After a long conversation, I 
succeeded in persuading him not to interfere in matters 
regarding prisoners of war, and to look upon Eddrees only 
as a vakeel until Ibrahim should arrive. He left my hut 
promising not to mention the affair again ; but the next 
day ne sent Cassave" to Eddrees, demanding two of the 
prettiest women who were captives. In reply, Eddrees, 
who was an extremely hot-headed fellow, went straight to 
Kamrasi, and spoke to him in a most insulting manner, 
refusing his request. The king immediately rose from his 
seat and turned his back upon the offender. Off rushed 
Eddrees, boiling with passion, to his camp, summoned his 
men well armed, and marched straight towards the re- 
sidence of Kamrasi to demand satisfaction for the affront. 
Fortunately, my vakeel brought me the intelligence, and I 
sent after him, ordering his immediate return, and declaring 
that no one should break the peace so long as I was in the 
country. In about ten minutes, both he and his men slunk 
back ashamed, mutually accusing each other, as is usual in 
cases of failure. This was an instance of the madness of 



Chap. XV.] COMMUNICATE WITH IBRAHIM. 3J9 

these Turks in assuming the offensive, when, in the event 
of a fight, defeat must have been certain. They were 
positively without ammunition ! having fired away all 
their cartridges except about five rounds for each man in 
the attack upon Fowooka. Fortunately, this was unknown 
to Kamrasi. I had a large supply, as my men were never 
permitted to fire a shot without my special permission. 

The party of Turks were now completely in my power. 
I sent for Eddrees, and also for the king : the latter had 
already heard from the natives of the approach of the 
armed Turks, and of my interference. He refused to 
appear in person, but sent his brother M'Gambi, who 
was, as usual, the cat's-paw. M'Gambi was highly 
offended, and declared that Kamrasi had forbidden 
Eddrees ever to appear again in his presence. I insisted 
upon Eddrees apologizing, and it was resolved that all 
future negotiations should be carried on through me alone. 
I suggested that it would be advisable for all parties that 
a message should be sent without delay to Ibrahim at 
Shooa, as it was highly necessary that he should be 
present, as I should not continue responsible for the 
conduct of the Turks. When I arrived in Unyoro it was 
with the intention of visiting the lake, and returning 
immediately. I had been delayed entirely through 
Kamrasi's orders, and I could not be held responsible 
for Eddrees; — my agreement had been to guarantee the 
conduct of the Turks under Ibra him , who was the com- 
mander of the party. Eddrees, who, being without 
ammunition, was now excessively humble and wished 
for reinforcements, offered to send five men to Shooa, 
provided that Kamrasi would allow some natives to 
accompany them. This did not suit the ideas of the 
suspicious M'Gambi, who suspected that he intended to 
misrepresent Kamrasi's conduct to prejudice Ibrahim 
against him. Accordingly, he declined his offer, but 
agreed to give porters and guides, should I wish to send 
any of my men with a letter. This suited my views 
exactly ; I longed to quit Kamrasi's country, as Kisoona 
was a prison of high grass and inaction, and could I only 



380 DRUNKENNESS AMONG THE UNFOROS. [Chap. XV 

return to Shooa, I could pass my time pleasantly in a 
fine open country and healthy climate, with the advantage 
of being five days' march nearer home than Unyoro. 
Accordingly, I instructed my vakeel to write a letter to 
Ibrahim, calling him immediately to Kisoona, informing 
him that a large quantity of ivory was collected, which, 
should Eddrees create a disturbance, would be lost. On 
the following morning, four of my men started for Shooa, 
accompanied by a number of natives. 

Kisoona relapsed into its former monotony — the war 
with Eowooka being over, the natives, free from care, 
passed their time in singing and drinking ; it was next to 
impossible to sleep at night, as crowds of people all drunk 
were yelling in chorus, blowing horns and beating drums 
from sunset until morning. The women took no part in 
this amusement, as it was the custom in Unyoro for the 
men to enjoy themselves in laziness, while the women 
performed all the labour of the fields. Thus they were 
fatigued, and glad to rest, while the men passed the night 
in uproarious merriment. The usual style of singing was 
a rapid chant delivered as a solo, while at intervals the 
crowd burst out in a deafening chorus together with the 
drums and horns; the latter were formed of immense 
gourds which, growing in a peculiar shape, with long 
bottle necks, were easily converted into musical (?) 
instruments. Every now and then a cry of fire in the 
middle of the night enlivened the ennui of our existence ; 
the huts were littered deep with straw, and the inmates, 
intoxicated, frequently fell asleep with their huge pipes 
alight, which, falling in the dry straw, at once occa- 
sioned a conflagration. In such cases the flames spread 
from hut to hut with immense rapidity, and frequently 
four or five hundred huts in Kamrasi's large camp were 
destroyed by fire, and rebuilt in a few clays. I was 
anxious concerning my powder, as, in the event of fire, 
the blaze of the straw hut was so instantaneous that 
nothing could be saved : should my powder explode, I 
should be entirely defenceless. Accordingly, after a con- 
flagration in my neighbourhood, I insisted upon removing 



Chap. XV.] IMPLICIT BELIEF IN SORCERERS. 381 

all huts within a circuit of thirty yards of my dwelling : 
the natives demurring, I at once ordered my men to pull 
down the houses, and thereby relieved myself from 
drunken and dangerous neighbours. 

Although we had been regularly supplied with beef by 
the king, we now found it most difficult to procure fowls ; 
the war with Fowooka had occasioned the destruction of 
nearly all the poultry in the neighbourhood of Kisoona, as 
Kamrasi and his kojoors (magicians) were occupied with 
daily sacrifices, deducing prognostications of coming events 
from the appearances of the entrails of the birds slain. 
The king was surrounded by sorcerers, both men and 
women ; these people were distinguished from others by 
witch-like chaplets of various dried roots worn upon the 
head ; some of them had dried lizards, crocodiles' teeth, 
lions' claws, minute tortoise-shells, &c. added to their 
collection of charms. They could have subscribed to the 
witches' cauldron of Macbeth : 

" Eye of newt and toe of frog, 
Wool of bat and tongue of dog, 
Adder's fork and blindworm's sting, 
Lizard'3 leg and owlet's wing, 
For a charm of powerful trouble, 
Like a hell -broth boil and bubble. " 

On the first appearance of these women, many of whom 
were old and haggard, I felt inclined to repeat Banquo's 
question : " What are these, so withered and so wild in 
their attire, that look not like the inhabitants o' the earth, 
and yet are on't ? Live you ? or are you aught that man 
may question?" 

In such witches and wizards Kamrasi and his people 
believed implicitly. Bacheeta, and also my men, told me 
that when my wife was expected to die during the attack 
of coup de soldi, the guide had procured a witch, who had 
killed a fowl to question it, " Whether she would recover 
and reach the lake?" The fowl in its dying struggle 
protruded its tongue, which sign is considered affirmative ; 
after this reply the natives had no doubt of the result. 
These people, although far superior to the tribes on the 



382 INVASION OF TEE M'WAS. [Chap. XV. 

north of the Nile in general intelligence, had no idea of 
a Supreme Being, nor any object of worship, their faith 
resting upon a simple belief in magic like that of the 
natives of Madi and Obbo. 

Some weeks passed without a reply from Shooa to the 
letter I had forwarded by my men, neither had any news 
been received of their arrival ; we had relapsed into the 
usual monotony of existence. This was happily broken 
by a most important event. 

On the 6th September, M'G-ambi came to my hut in 
a state of great excitement, with the intelligence that the 
M'was, the natives of Uganda, had invaded Kamrasi's 
country with a large army ; that they had already crossed 
the Kafoor river and had captured M'rooli, and that they 
were marching through the country direct to Kisoona, 
with the intention of killing Kamrasi and of attacking us, 
and annexing the country of Unyoro to M'tese's domi- 
nions. My force was reduced by four men that I had 
sent to Shooa — thus we were a party of twenty guns, 
including the Turks, who unfortunately had no ammu- 
nition. There was no doubt about the truth of the intelli- 
gence; the natives seemed in great consternation, as the 
M'was were far more powerful than Kamrasi's people, and 
every invasion from that country had been attended with 
the total rout of the Unyoro forces. I told M'Gambi that 
messengers must be sent off at once to Shooa with a letter 
that I would write to Ibrahim, summoning him imme- 
diately to Karuma with a force of 100 men ; at the same 
time I suggested that we should leave Kisoona and march 
with Kamrasi's army direct to Karuma, there to establish 
a fortified camp to command the passage of the river, and 
to secure a number of canoes to provide a passage for 
Ibrahim's people whenever they could effect a junction : — 
otherwise, the M'was might destroy the boats and cut 
off the Turks on then arrival at the ferry. Kisoona was 
an exceedingly disadvantageous situation, as it was a mere 
forest of trees and tangled herbage ten or twelve feet high, 
in which the enemy could approach us unperceived, secure 
from our guns. M'Gambi quite approved of my advice, 



Chap. XV.] KAMRASI WILL NOT FIGHT. 383 

and hurried off to the king, who, as usual iu cases of 
necessity, came to me without delay. He was very 
excited, and said that messengers arrived four or five 
times a day, bringing reports of every movement of the 
enemy, who were advancing rapidly in three divisions, one 
by the route direct from M'rooli to Karuma that I had 
followed on my arrival at Atada, another direct to Kisoona, 
and a third between these two parallels, so as to cut off 
his retreat to an island in the Nile, where he had formerly 
taken refuge when his country was invaded by the same 
people. I begged him not to think of retiring to the 
island, but to take my advice and fight it out, in which 
case I should be happy to assist him, as I was his guest, 
and I had a perfect right to repel any aggression. Ac- 
cordingly I drew a plan of operations, showing how a 
camp could be formed on the cliff above Karuma .Falls, 
having two sides protected by the river, while a kraal 
could be formed in the vicinity completely commanded by 
our guns, where his cattle would remain in perfect 
security. He listened with wandering eyes to all military 
arrangements, and concluded by abandoning all idea of 
resistance, but resolutely adhering to his plan of flight to 
the island that had protected him on a former occasion. 
We could only agree upon two points, the evacuation of 
Kisoona as untenable, and the necessity of despatching 
a summons to Ibrahim immediately. The latter decision 
was acted upon that instant, and runners were despatched 
with a letter to Shooa. Kamrasi decided to wait until 
the next morning for reports from expected messengers on 
the movements of the enemy, otherwise he might run into 
the very jaws of the danger he wished to avoid ; and he 
promised to send porters to carry us and our effects, should 
it be necessary to march to Karuma: with this under- 
standing, he departed. Bacheeta now assured me that 
the M'was were so dreaded by the Unyoro people that 
nothing would induce them to fight ; therefore I must not 
depend upon Kamrasi in any way, but must make inde- 
pendent arrangements : she informed me, that the invasion 
was caused by accounts given to M'tese by Goobo Goolah, 



384 AN INVIGORATING LITTLE DIFFICULT?. [Chap. XV. 

one of Speke's deserters, who had run away from Kamrasi 
shortly after our arrival in the country, and had reported 
to M'tese, the king of Uganda, that we were on our way 
to pay him a visit with many valuable presents, but that 
Kamrasi had prevented us from proceeding, in order to 
monopolise the merchandise. Enraged at this act of his 
great enemy Kamrasi, he had sent spies to corroborate the 
testimony of Goobo Goolah (these were the four men who 
had appeared some weeks ago), which being confirmed, 
he had sent an army to destroy both Kamrasi and his 
country, and to capture us and lead us to his capital. 
This was the explanation of the affair given by Bacheeta, 
who, with a woman's curiosity and tact, picked up in- 
formation in the camps almost as correctly as a Times' 
correspondent. 

This was very enjoyable — the monotony of our existence 
had been unbearable, and here was an invigorating little 
difficulty with just sufficient piquancy to excite our spirits. 
My men were so thoroughly drilled and accustomed to 
complete obedience and dependence upon my guidance, 
that they had quite changed their characters. I called 
Eddrees, gave him ten rounds of ball cartridge for each of 
his men, and told him to keep with my party should we 
be obliged to march : he immediately called a number of 
natives and concealed all his ivory in the jungle. 

At about 9 p.m. the camp was in an uproar ; suddenly 
drums beat in all quarters, in reply to nogaras that 
sounded the alarm in Kamrasi's camp ; horns bellowed ; 
men and women yelled ; huts were set on fire ; and in the 
blaze of light hundreds of natives, all armed and dressed 
for war, rushed frantically about, as usual upon such 
occasions, gesticulating, and engaging in mock fight with 
each other, as though full of valour and boiling over with 
a desire to meet the enemy. Bacheeta, who was a sworn 
enemy to Kamrasi, was delighted at his approaching 
discomfiture. As some of the most desperate looking 
warriors, dressed with horns upon their heads, rushed up 
to us brandishing their spears, she shouted in derision, 
" Dance away, my boys ! Now's your time when the 



Chap. XV.] KAMRASI'S RETREAT. 385 

enemy is far away ; , but if you see a M'wa as big as 
the boy Saat, you will run as fast as your legs can 
carry you." 

The M'was were reported to be so close to Kisoona that 
their nogaras had been heard from Kamrasi's position, 
therefore we were to be ready to march for Atada before 
daybreak on the following morning. There was little 
sleep that night, as all the luggage had to be packed in 
readiness for the early start. Cassave, who could always 
be depended upon, arrived at my hut, and told me that 
messengers had reported that the M'was had swept every- 
thing before them, having captured all the women and 
cattle of the country and killed a great number of people ; 
that they had seen the light of burning villages from Kam- 
rasi's camp, and that it was doubtful whether the route was 
open to Atada. I suggested that men should be sent on 
in advance, to report if the path were occupied : this was 
immediately clone. 

Before daybreak on the following morning an immense' 
volume of light with dense clouds of smoke in the direc- 
tion of Kamrasi's position showed that his camp had 
been fired, according to custom, and that his retreat had 
commenced; — thousands of grass huts were in flames, 
and I could not help being annoyed at the folly of these 
natives at thus giving the enemy notice of their retreat, 
by a signal that could be seen at many miles' distance, 
when success depended upon rapid and secret movements. 
Shortly after these signs of the march, crowds of women, 
men, cows, goats, and luggage appeared, advancing in single 
tile through a grove of plantains and passing within twenty 
yards of us in an endless string. It was pouring with rain, 
and women carrying their children were slipping along 
the muddy path, while throngs of armed men and porters 
pushed rudely by, until at last the gallant Kamrasi him- 
self appeared with a great number of women (his wives), 
several of whom were carried on litters, being too fat to 
walk. He took no notice of me as he passed by. M'Gambi 
was standing by me, and he explained that we were to 
close the rear, Kamrasi having concluded that it was 

c c 



386 WE ARE DESERTED. [Chap. XV. 

advisable to have the guns between him and the enemy. 
For upwards of an hour the crowd of thousands of people 
and cattle filed past ; — at length the last straggler closed 
the line of march. But where were our promised porters ? 
Not a man was forthcoming, and we were now the sole 
occupants of the deserted village, excepting M'Ganibi and 
Cassave. These men declared that the people were so 
frightened that no one would remain to carry us and our 
effects, but that they would go to a neighbouring village 
and bring porters to convey us to Foweera to-morrow, as 
that was the spot where Kamrasi wished us to camp ; at 
Foweera there was no high grass, and the country was 
perfectly open, so that the rifles could command an ex- 
tensive range. The cunning and duplicity of Kamrasi 
were extraordinary — he promised, only to deceive; his 
object in leaving us here was' premeditated, as he knew 
that the M'was, should they pursue him, must fight us 
before they could follow on his path ; — we were therefore 
to be left to defend his rear. The order to camp at 
Foweera had a similar motive. I knew the country, as 
we had passed it on our march from Atada to M'rooli ; 
it was about three miles from Karuma Falls, and would 
form a position in Kamrasi's rear when he should locate 
himself upon the island. Foweera was an excellent 
military point, as it was equidistant from the Nile north 
and east at the angle where the river turned to the west 
from Atada. 

I was so annoyed at the deception practised by Kam- 
rasi that I determined to fraternise with the M'was, should 
they appear at Kisoona; and I made up my mind not 
to fire a shot except in absolute necessity for so faithless 
an ally as the king. This I explained to M G-ambi, and 
threatened that if porters were not supplied I would 
wait at Kisoona, join the M'was on their arrival, and with 
them as allies I would attack the island which Kamrasi 
boasted was his stronghold. This idea frightened M'Gambi, 
and both he and Cassave started to procure porters, pro- 
mising most faithfully to appear that evening, and to start 
together to Foweera on the following morning. We were 



C&ap. XV ] OUTMARCHED. 387 

a party of twenty guns ; there was no fear in the event 
of an attack. I ordered all the huts of the village to be 
burned except those belonging to our men ; thus we had 
a clear space for the guns in case of necessity. 

In the evening, true to his promise, M'Gambi appeared 
with a number of natives, but Cassave" had followed 
Kamrasi. 

At sunrise on the following day we started, my wife 
in a litter, and I in a chair. The road was extremely bad, 
excessively muddy from the rain of yesterday, trodden 
deeply by the hoofs of herds of cattle, and by the feet 
of the thousands that had formed Kamrasi's army and 
camp followers. There was no variety in the country, it 
was the same undulating land overgrown with impene- 
trable grass, and wooded with mimosas ; every swamp 
being shaded by clumps of the graceful wild date. After 
a march of about eight miles we found the route dry 
and dusty, the rain on the preceding day having been 
partial. There was no water on the road and we were 
all thirsty, having calculated on a supply from the heavy 
rain. Although many thousands of people had travelled 
on the path so recently as the previous day, it was never- 
theless narrow and hemmed in by the high grass, as the 
crowd had marched in single file and had therefore not 
widened the route. This caused great delay to the porters 
who carried the litter, as they marched two deep ; thus 
one man had to struggle through the high grass. M'Gambi 
started off in advance of the party with several natives at a 
rapid pace, while the Turks and some of my men guarded 
the ammunition, and I remained in company with the 
litter and five of my men to bring up the rear. The pro- 
gress of the litter was so slow that, after travelling all day 
until sunset, we were outmarched, and just as it was 
getting dark, we arrived at a spot where a path branched 
to the south, while the main path that we had been follow- 
ing continued E.N.E. At this point a native was waiting, 
having been stationed there by the Turks to direct us to 
the south ; — he explained that the people had halted at a 
village close by. Pushing our way through the narrow path 

cc 2 



388 ARRIVE AT BEING— NO WATER. [Chap. XV. 

we shortly arrived at the village of Deang. This consisted 
of a few deserted huts scattered among extensive groves of 
plantains. Here we found Eddrees and the Turks, with 
their captives from the attack on Fowooka ; — passing their 
huts, we took possession of two clean and new huts in the 
midst of a well-cultivated field of beans that were about 
six inches above the ground, the cleared field forming 
an oasis in the middle of the surrounding grass jungle. 
There was no water ; — it was already dark, and, although 
we had travelled through the heat of the day, no one had 
drank since the morning. We were intensely thirsty, and 
the men searched in vain among the deserted huts in the 
hope of finding a supply in the water-jars — they were all 
empty. Fortunately we had a little sour milk in a jar 
that we had carried with us, barely sufficient for two per- 
sons. There was nothing to eat except unripe plantains : 
these we boiled as a substitute for potatoes. I disarmed 
all the porters, placing their lances and shields under my 
bedstead in the hut, lest their owners should abscond during 
the night. It now appeared that our party had scattered 
most disgracefully ; those in advance with the ammunition, 
who had been ordered not to quit their charge for an 
instant, had outmarched the main body, leaving Eddrees 
and a few men with the captive women, who could not 
walk fast, and my small guard who had attended the litter. 
No one ate much that night, as all were too thirsty. 
On the following morning I found to my dismay that 
all of our porters had absconded, except two men who 
had slept in the same hut with my people; — we were 
for about the hundredth time deserted in this detestable 
country. I ordered Eddrees to push on to Foweera, 
and to desire my men with the ammunition to wait 
there until I should arrive, and to request Kamrasi to 
send porters immediately to assist us. Foweera was 
about thirteen miles from Deang, our present position. 
Eddrees and his party started, and I immediately sent 
my men with empty jars to search in all directions for 
water; — they returned in about an hour, having been 
unsuccessful. I again ordered them to search in another 



Chap. XV.] RICHARN MISSING. 3S9 

direction, and should they find a native, to force him 
to be their guide to a drinking place. In about three 
hours they returned, accompanied by two old men, and 
laden with three large jars of good water ; they had found 
the old people in a deserted village, and they had guided 
them to a spring about three miles distant. Our chief 
want being supplied, we had no fear of starving, as there 
was abundance of plantains, and we had about a dozen 
cheeses that we had manufactured while at Kisoona, in 
addition to a large supply of flour. A slight touch of 
fever attacked me, and I at length fell asleep. 

I was awakened by the voices of my men, who were 
standing at the door of my hut with most doleful coun- 
tenances. They explained that Eicharn was missing, and was 
supposed to have been killed by the natives. My vakeel 
held a broken ramrod in his hand : this suspicious witness 
was covered with blood. It appeared that while I was 
asleep, Eicharn and one of my men named Mahommed had 
taken their guns, and without orders had rambled through 
the country in search of a village, with the intention 
of prociiring porters, if possible, to carry us to Foweera. 
They had arrived at a nest of small villages, and had 
succeeded in engaging, four men; these Eicharn left in 
charge of Mahommed while he proceeded alone to a 
neighbouring village. Shortly after his departure Ma- 
hommed heard the report of a gun in that direction 
about half a mile distant, and leaving his charge, he 
ran towards the spot. On arrival, he found the village 
deserted, and on searching the neighbourhood, and vainly 
calling Eicharn, he came upon a large . pool of blood 
opposite several huts; lying upon the blood was the 
broken ramrod of Eicharn's gun. After searching without 
success, he had returned with the melancholy report of 
this disaster. I was very fond of Eicharn ; he had followed 
me faithfully for years, and with fewer faults than most 
of his race, he had exhibited many sterling qualities. I 
waited foT two days in this spot, searching for him in all 
directions. On one occasion my men saw a number of men 
and women howling in a village not far from the place 






390 BICHARN REPORTED AS KILLED. [Chap. XV. 

where the accident had happened ; on the approach of 
my people they fled into the jungles : thus, there was no 
doubt that Richarn must have shot a man before he had 
been killed, as the natives were mourning for the dead. 
I was much distressed at this calamity; my faithful 
Richarn was dead, and the double-barrelled Purdey that 
he carried was lost ; this belonged to my friend Oswell, of 
South African and Lake Ngami celebrity ; it was a much- 
prized weapon, with which he had hunted for five years 
all the heavy game of Africa with such untiring zeal that 
much of the wood of the stock was eaten away by the 
" wait a bit " thorns in his passage on horseback at full 
speed through the jungles. He had very kindly lent me 
this old companion of his sports, and I had entrusted it 
to Richarn as my most careful man : both man and gun 
were now lost. 

Having vainly searched for two days, and my men 
having seen several village dogs with their mouths and 
feet covered with blood, we came to the conclusion that 
his body had been dragged into the grass jungle by the 
natives, and there, concealed, it had been discovered and 
devoured by the dogs. 

No porters had arrived from Kamrasi, neither had any 
reply been sent to the message I had forwarded by Eddrees ; 
— the evening arrived, and, much dispirited at the loss of 
my old servant, I lay down on my angarep for the night. 
At about eight o'clock, in the stillness of our solitude, my 
men asleep, with the exception of the sentry, we were 
startled by the sound of a nogara at no great distance to 
the south of our huts. The two natives who had remained 
• with us immediately woke the men, and declared that the 
drums we heard were those of the M'was, who were 
evidently approaching our village ; — the natives knew the 
peculiar sound of the nogaras of the enemy, which were 
different to those of Kamrasi. This was rather awkward — 
our ammunition was at Foweera, and we had no more than 
the supply in our cartouche boxes, my men thirty rounds 
each, while I carried in my pouch twenty-one. Our posi- 
tion was untenable, as the drinking place was three miles 



Chap. XV.] MARCH TO FOWEERA. 391 

distant. Again the nogara sounded, and the native guides 
declared that they could not remain where we then were, 
but they would conceal themselves in the high grass. My 
wife proposed that we should forsake our luggage, and 
march at once for Foweera and effect a junction with our 
men and ammunition before daybreak. I was sure that it 
could not be less than twelve or thirteen miles, and in her 
weak state it would be impossible for her to accomplish 
the distance, through high grass, in darkness, over a rough 
path, with the chance of the route being already occupied 
by the enemy. However, she was determined to risk the 
march. I accordingly prepared to start at 9 p.m., as at 
that time the moon would be about 30° above the horizon 
and would afford us a good light. I piled all the luggage 
within the hut ; — packed our blankets in a canvas bag, to 
be carried by one of the natives, and ordered one of our 
black women to carry a jar of water. Thus provided, and 
forsaking all other effects, we started at exactly nine 
o'clock, following our two natives as guides. 

Our course was about E.IST.E. The moon was bright, 
but the great height of the grass shadowed the narrow 
path so that neither ruts nor stones were visible. The 
dew was exceedingly heavy, and in brushing through the 
rank vegetation we were soon wet to the skin. This was 
our first attempt at walking a distance since many months, 
and being dreadfully out of condition, I much feared that 
one of us might be attacked by fever before we should 
have accomplished the march ; at all events, there was no 
alternative but to push ahead until we should reach 
Foweera, however distant. We walked for about three 
hours along a narrow but unmistakeable path, well trodden 
by the cattle and people that had accompanied Kamrasi. 
Suddenly we arrived at a place where a path diverged to 
the right, while another led to the left : the former was 
much trodden by cattle, and the guides declared this to be 
the right direction. Perfectly certain of their mistake, as 
Foweera lay to the east, while such a course would lead 
us due south, I refused to follow, and ordered the party to 
halt while I made a survey of the neighbourhood. I 



392 LOSE THE ROAD. [Chap. XV. 

shortly discovered in the bright moonlight that the larger 
path to the south had been caused by the cattle that had 
been driven in that direction, but had again returned by 
the same route. It was evident that some village lay to 
the south, at which Kamrasi and his army had slept, and 
that they had returned by the same path to the Foweera 
main route on the following morning. I soon discovered 
. cattle tracks on the smaller path to the east : this I deter- 
mined to follow. My guides were of little use, and they 
confessed that they had only once visited the Foweera 
country. We were bound for the principal village that 
belonged to the chief Kalloe, an excellent man, who had 
frequently visited us at Kisoona. 

Not far from the branch roads we came suddenly upon a 
few huts, the inmates of which were awake. They gave 
us the unpleasant intelligence that the M'was occupied the 
country in advance, and that we should not be able to 
pass them on our present route, as they were close to that 
spot. It was now past midnight, the country was per- 
fectly still, and having no confidence in the guides I led 
the way. 

About a mile from the huts that we had passed I sud- 
denly observed the light of numerous fires, and a great 
number of temporary huts formed of green grass and 
plantain leaves : this was the camp of the M'was. I did 
not observe any people, nor did we wait long in our 
present position, but taking a path that led to the north, 
we quietly and stealthily continued our march through 
walls of high grass, until in about an hour we arrived in a 
totally different country. There was no longer the dismal 
grass jungle in which a man was as much lost as a rabbit 
in a field of corn, but beautiful park-like glades of rich 
and tender grass, like an English meadow, stretched before 
us in the pale moonlight, darkened in many places by 
the shadows of large isolated trees and clumps of forest. 
Continuing along this agreeable route, we suddenly arrived 
at a spot where numerous w r ell -beaten paths branched into 
all directions. This was extreme confusion. We had left 
the direct route to Foweera when we had made the detour 



Chap. XV.] CAPTURE A NATIVE. 393 

to avoid the M'was' camp. I knew that, as we had then 
turned to the north, our course should now be due east. 
There was a path leading in that direction ; hut just as we 
were quietly deliberating upon the most advisable course, 
we heard distant voices. Any Voice in this neighbourhood 
I concluded must be that of an enemy, therefore I ordered 
my people to sit down, while two men coDcealed them- 
selves on the borders of a jungle, about a hundred yards 
distant, as sentries. 

I then sent Bacheeta and one of the guides towards the 
spot from which the sound of voices had proceeded, to 
listen to their language, and to report whether they were 
M'was, or people of Foweera. The spies started cautiously 
on their errand. 

About five minutes passed in utter silence ; the voices 
that we had heard had ceased. We were very cold, being 
wet through with the dew. My wife was much fatigued, 
and now rested by sitting on the bag of blankets. I was 
afraid of remaining long in inaction, lest she should become 
stiff and be unable to march. 

We had been thus waiting for about ten minutes, when 
we were suddenly startled by the most fearful and piercing 
yell I ever heard. This proceeded from the jungle where 
one of my men was on guard, about a hundred yards dis- 
tant. For the moment I thought he had been caught by 
a lion, and cocking my rifle, I ran towards the spot. Before 
I reached the jungle I saw one of the sentries running in the 
same direction, and two other figures approaching, one 
being dragged along by the throat by my man Moosa. 
He had a prisoner. It appeared, that while he was crouch- 
ing beneath the bushes at the entrance of the main path 
that led through the jungle, he suddenly observed a man 
quietly stealing along the forest close to him. He waited, 
unobserved, until the figure had passed him, when he 
quickly sprang upon him from behind, seizing his spear 
with his left hand and grasping his throat with his right. 
This sudden and unexpected attack from an unseen enemy 
had so terrified the native that he had uttered the extra- 
ordinary yell that had startled our party. He was now 



394 RECOVER THE ROUTE. [Chap. XV. 

triumphantly led by his captor, but he was so prostrated 
by fear that he trembled as though in an ague fit. I 
endeavoured to reassure -him, and Bacheeta shortly return- 
ing with the guide, we discovered the value of our prize. 
i Far from being an enemy, he was one of Kalloe^s men, who 
i had been sent to spy the M'was from Foweera : thus we 
! had a dependable guide. This little incident was as re- 
freshing as a glass of sherry during the night's march, and 
we enjoyed a hearty laugh. Bacheeta had been unsuccess- 
ful in finding the origin of the voices, as they had ceased 
shortly after she had left us. It appeared that our captive 
had also heard the voices, and he was stealthily endeavour- 
ing to ascertain the cause when he was so roughly seized 
by Moosa. We now explained to him our route, and he 
at once led the way, relieving the native who had hitherto 
carried the bag of blankets. We had made a considerable 
circuit by turning from the direct path, but we now had 
the advantage of seeing the open country before us, and 
marching upon a good and even path. We walked for 
about three hours from this spot at a brisk pace, my wife 
failing three times from sheer fatigue, which induced 
stumbling over the slightest inequalities in the road. At 
length we descended a valley, and crossing a slight hollow, 
we commenced the ascent of a gentle inclination upon a 
beautiful grassy undulation crowned by a clump of large 
trees. In the stillness of the night wherever we had 
halted we had distinctly heard the distant roar of the 
river ; but the sound had so much increased within the 
last hour that I felt convinced we must be near Foweera 
at the bend of the Victoria Nile. My wife was so ex- 
hausted with the long march, rendered doubly fatiguing 
by the dew that had added additional weight to her 
clothes, that she could hardly ascend the hill we had just 
commenced. For the last hour our guide had declared 
that Foweera was close to us ; but experienced in natives' 
descriptions of distance, we were quite uncertain as to the 
hour at which we should arrive. We were already at the 
top of the hill, and within about two hundred yards of the 
dense clump of trees my wife was obliged to confess that 



Chap. XV.] ARRIVE AT FOWEERA. 395 

she could go no farther. Just at that moment a cock 
crowed ; another replied immediately from the clump of 
trees close to us, and the guide, little appreciating the 
blessing of his announcement, told us that we had arrived 
at Kalloe's village, for which we were bound. 

It was nearly 5 a.m., and we had marched from Deang 
at 9 p.m. There was some caution required in approaching 
the village, as, should one of the Turks' sentries be on 
guard, he would in all probability fire at the first object 
he might see, without a challenge. I therefore ordered my 
men to shout, while I gave my well-known whistle that 
would be a signal of our arrival. For some time we exerted 
our lungs in this manner before we received a reply, and I 
began to fear that our people were not at this village : at 
length a well-known voice replied in Arabic. The sentries 
and the whole party were positively asleep, although close 
to an enemy's country. They were soon awake when it 
was reported that we had arrived, and upon our entering 
the village they crowded around us with the usual wel- 
come. A large fire was lighted in a spacious hut, and 
fortunately, the portmanteau having preceded us together 
with the ammunition, we were provided with a change of 
clothes. 

I slept for a couple of hours, and then sent for the chief 
of Foweera, Kalloe. Both he and his son appeared ; they 
said that their spies had reported that the M'was would 
attack this village on the following day; that they had 
devastated the entire country and occupied the whole of 
Unyoro and Chopi ; that they had cut off a large herd of 
cattle belonging to Kamrasi, and he had only just reached 
the island in time for security, as the enemy had arrived 
at the spot and killed a number of people who were too 
late to embark. Kalloe reported that Kamrasi had fired 
at the M'was from the island, but having no bullets his 
rifle was useless. The M'was had returned the fire, being 
provided with four guns that they had procured from 
Speke's deserters ; — they were in the same condition as 
Kamrasi, having no bullets ; thus a harmless fusilade had 
been carried on by both parties. The M'was had retired 



396 WELL PREPARED FOR AN ATTACK. [Chai>. XV. 

from their position on the bank of the river by Kamrasi's 
island, and had proceeded to Atada, which they had de- 
stroyed. They were now within three miles of us ; never- 
theless the foolish Kalloe expressed his determination of 
driving his cattle to Kamrasi's island for security, about 
two miles distant. I endeavoured to persuade him that 
they would be perfectly safe if under our protection, but 
his only reply was to order his son to drive them off imme- 
diately. 

That day, Kalloe' and all the natives quitted the village 
and fled to an island for security, leaving us masters of the 
position. I served out a quantity of ammunition to the 
Turks, and we were perfectly prepared. The drums of the 
M'was were heard in all directions both day and night; 
but we were perfectly comfortable, as the granaries were 
well filled, and innumerable fowls stored both this and the 
closely adjoining deserted villages. 

On the following day M'G-ambi appeared with a message 
from Kamrasi, begging us to come and form a camp on the 
bank of the river opposite to his island to protect him from 
the M'was, who would assuredly return and attack him in 
canoes. I told him plainly that I should not interfere to 
assist him, as he had left me on the road at Deang ; that 
Bicharn had been killed by his people, and that one of my 
guns was still in their possession, added to which I had 
been obliged to forsake all my baggage, owing to the deser- 
tion of the porters; — for all these errors I should hold 
Kamrasi responsible. He replied that he did not think 
Eicharn was killed, but that he had shot the chief of a 
village dead, having got into some quarrel with the natives. 
The conversation ended by my adhering to my intention of 
remaining independent at Foweera. M'Gambi said they 
were very miserable on the island, that no one could rest 
day or night for the mosquitoes, and that they were suffer- 
ing from famine ; — he had several men with him, who at 
once set to work to thrash out corn from the well-filled 
granaries of the village, and they departed heavily laden. 

During the day a few natives of the district found their 
way into the village for a similar purpose. I had pre- 



Chap. XV.] R[CHARN'S RETURN. 397 

viously heard that the inhabitants of Foweera were dis- 
affected, and that many were in correspondence with the 
enemy. I accordingly instructed Bacheeta to converse 
with the people, and to endeavour through them to get 
into communication with the M'was, assuring them that I 
should remain neutral, unless attacked, but if their inten- 
tions were hostile I was quite ready to fight. At the same 
time I instructed her to explain that I should be sorry to 
fire at the servants of M'tese, as he had behaved well to 
my friends Speke and Grant, but that the best way to 
avoid a collision would be for the M'was \% keep at a 
distance from my camp. Bacheeta told me that this 
assurance would be certain to reach the chief of the M'was, 
as many of the natives of Chopi were in league with them 
against Kamrasi. 

In the afternoon of that day I strolled outside the vil- 
lage with some of my men to accompany the party to the 
drinking place from which we procured our water ; — it was 
about a quarter of a mile from the camp, and it was con- 
sidered dangerous for any one to venture so far without the 
protection of an armed party. 

We had just returned, and were standing in the cool of 
the evening on the lawn opposite the entrance of the camp, 
when one of my men came rushing towards us, shouting. 
" Eicharn ! Bicharn's come back ! " In another moment I 
saw with extreme delight the jet black Bicharn, whom 
I had mourned as lost, quietly marching towards us. The 
meeting was almost pathetic. I took him warmly by the 
hand and gave him a few words of welcome, but my vakeel, 
who had never cared for him before, threw himself upon 
his neck and burst out crying like a child. How long this 
sobbing would have continued I know not, as several of 
my Arabs caught the infection and began to be lachry- 
mose, while Bicharn, embraced on all sides, stood the ordeal 
most stoically, looking extremely bewildered, but totally 
unconscious of the cause of so much weeping. 'To change 
the current of feeling, I told the boy Saat to fetch a large 
gourd-shell of merissa (native beer), of which I had re- 
ceived a good supply from Kalloe. This soon arrived, and 



398 RICHARN'S STORI. [Chap. XV. 

was by far the most acceptable welcome to Kicharn, who 
drank like a whale. So large was the gourd, that even 
after the mighty draught enough remained for the rest of 
the party to sip. Eefreshed by the much-loved drink, 
Eicharn now told us his story. When separated from 
Mahommed at the village he had found a great number of 
people, some of whom were our runaway porters ; on his 
attempting to persuade them to return, a quarrel had taken 
place, and the chief of the village heading his men had 
advanced on Eicharn and seized his gun ; — at the same 
time the chief called to his men to kill him. Eicharn 
drew his knife to release his gun ; seeing which, the chief 
relaxed his hold, and stepping a pace back he raised his 
lance to strike ; — at the same moment Eicharn pulled the 
trigger and shot him dead. The natives, panic-stricken at 
the sudden effect of the shot, rushed away, and Eicharn, 
profiting by the opportunity, disappeared in the high grass, 
and fled. Once in the interminable sea of grass that was 
almost impenetrable, he wandered for two days without 
water: hearing the distant roar of the Nile, he at length 
reached it when nearly exhausted with thirst and fatigue ; 
—he then followed up the stream to Karuma, avoided the 
M'was, — and knowing the road thence to M'rooli that we 
had formerly travelled, he arrived at Foweera. His ramrod 
had been broken in the struggle when the chief seized his 
gun, and to his great astonishment I now showed him the 
piece that we had picked up on the pool of blood. He had 
made an excellent loading-rod with his hunting knife by 
shaping a sapling of hard wood, and had reloaded his gun ; 
thus with a good supply of ammunition he had not much 
fear of the natives. Kamrasi had evidently heard the true 
account of the affair. 

Late in the evening we heard from a native that the 
whole of Kalloe^s cattle that he had driven from Foweera 
had been captured by the enemy on their way to the river 
island, and that one of his sons and several natives who 
had driven them were killed ; — this was the result of his 
precipitate flight. 

The M'was followed up their advantages with uninter- 



Chap. XV.] ARRIVAL OF REINFORCEMENTS. 399 

rupted success, overrunning the entire country even to the 
shores of the Albert lake, aud driving off the cattle, together 
with all the women that had not taken refuge upon the 
numerous islands of the Victoria Nile. During this time, 
Kamrasi and his wives, together with his principal chiefs, 
resided in the misery of mosquitoes and malaria on the 
river; — great numbers of people died of disease and starva- 
tion. M'Gambi appeared frequently at our camp in order 
to procure corn, and from him we received reports of the 
distress of the people ; — his appearance had much changed ; 
he looked half starved, and complained that he had nothing 
to drink but Nile water, as they had neither corn, nor pots 
in which they could make merissa, and the M'was had 
destroyed all the plantains, therefore they could not pre- 
pare cider. 

Among other losses my two cows were reported by 
M'Gambi to have been stolen by the M'was, in company 
with the cattle of Kamrasi, with which they had been 
driven from Kisoona. I did not believe it, as he also told 
me that all the luggage that I had left at Deang had like- 
wise been stolen by the enemy. But I had heard from 
Bacheeta that the natives of that neighbourhood had car- 
ried it (about six loads) direct to Kamrasi's island ; thus it 
was in his possession at the same time that he declared it 
to have been stolen by the M'was. I told him, that I 
should hold him responsible, and that he should pay me 
the value of the lost effects in a certain number of cows, 
A few days after this conversation, my cows and the whole 
of my luggage were delivered to me in safety. Kamrasi 
had evidently intended to appropriate them, but being 
pressed by the M'was and his old enemies on the east bank 
of the Nile (the Langgos), who had made common cause 
with the invaders, the time was not favourable for a quarrel 
with either me or the Turks. 

On the evening of the 19th September, a few days after 
this occurrence, intelligence was brought into camp that 
Ibrahim and a hundred men had arrived at Karuma Falls 
at the ferry by which we had formerly crossed the river to 
Atada. I immediately despatched ten men to investigate 



LETTERS FROM HOME. [Chap. XV. 

the truth of the report. In about two hours they returned 
in high spirits, having exchanged greeting with Ibrahim 
and his party across the river. Kamrasi had despatched 
boats to another ferry above the Falls to facilitate the 
passage of the entire party on the following morning, as 
he wished them to attack the M'was immediately. 

Not being desirous of such an encounter, the M'was, 
who had witnessed the arrival of this powerful reinforce- 
ment, immediately retreated, and by sunrise they had 
fallen back about twenty miles on the road to M'rooli. 

On the morning of the 20 th Ibrahim arrived, bringing 
with him the post from England ; that being addressed to 
the consul at Khartoum had been forwarded to Gondokoro 
by the annual boats, and taken charge of by Ibrahim on 
his arrival at that station last April with ivory from the 
interior. My letters were of very old dates, none under 
two years, with the exception of one from Speke, who had 
sent me the Illustrated London News, containing his 
portrait and that of Grant ; also Punch, with an illus- 
tration of Punch's discovery of the Nile sources. For 
a whole day I revelled in the luxury of letters and news- 
papers. 

Ibrahim had very kindly thought of our necessities 
when at Gondokoro, and had brought me a piece of coarse 
cotton cloth of Arab manufacture (darmoor) for clothes 
for myself, and a piece of cotton print for a dress for 
Mrs. Baker, in addition to a large jar of honey, and some 
rice and coffee — the latter being the balance of my old 
stock that I had been obliged to forsake for want of porters 
at Shooa. He told me that all my effects that I had left 
at Obbo had been returned to Gondokoro, and that my 
two men, whom I had left in charge, had returned with 
them to Khartoum, on board the vessel that had been 
sent for me from that place, but which had joined the 
traders' boats on their return voyage. Ibrahim had 
assured the captain that it was impossible that we could 
arrive during that year. It was thus fortunate that we 
had not pushed on for Gondokoro after April in expec- 
tation of finding the boat awaiting us. However, "All's 



Chap. XV.] INVASION OF THE LAN GOO COUNTRY. 401 

well that ends well," and Ibrahim was astounded at our 
success, but rather shocked at our personal appearance, 
as we were thin and haggard, and our clothes had been 
so frequently repaired that they would hardly hold toge- 
ther. 

On the 23d September we moved our camp, and took 
possession of a village within half a mile of the Victoria 
Nile. Kamrasi was now very valorous, and returned from 
his island to a large village on the banks of the river. 
He sent Ibrahim an immense quantity of ivory, in addi- 
tion to the store that had been concealed by Eddrees 
on our departure from Kisoona ; this was sent for, and in 
a few days it was safely deposited in the general camp. 
Ibrahim was amazed at the fortune that awaited him. 
I congratulated him most heartily on the success of the 
two expeditions — the geographical, and the ivory trade; 
the latter having far more than fulfilled my promise. 

Kamrasi determined to invade the Langgo country 
immediately, as they had received Fowooka after his 
defeat, and he was now residing with the chief. Ac- 
cordingly, eighty of Ibrahim's men were despatched across 
the river, and in three days they destroyed a number of 
villages, and captured about 200 head of cattle, together 
with a number of prisoners, including many women. 
Great rejoicings took place on their return ; Ibrahim pre- 
sented Kamrasi with a hundred cows, and in return for 
this generosity the king sent thirty immense tusks, and 
promised a hundred more within a few days. 

Another expedition was demanded, and was quickly 
undertaken with similar success ; this time Fowooka nar- 
rowly escaped, as a Turk fired at him, but missed and 
killed a native who stood by him. On the return of the 
party, Kamrasi received another present of cattle, and 
again the ivory flowed into the camp. 

In the meantime, I had made myself excessively com- 
fortable; we were in a beautiful and highly cultivated 
district, in the midst of immense fields of sweet potatoes. 
The idea struck me that I could manufacture spirit from 
this source, as they were so excessively sweet as to be 

D D 



402 THE WHISKT DISTILLERY. [Chap. XV. 

disagreeable as a vegetable. Accordingly I collected a 
great number of large jars that were used by the natives 
for brewing merissa ; in these I boiled several hundred- 
weight of potatoes to a pulp. There were jars containing 
about twenty gallons ; these I filled with the pulp mashed 
with water, to which I added yeast from a brewing of 
merissa. While this mixture was fermenting I constructed 
my still, by fixing a jar of about twelve gallons on a neat 
furnace of clay, and inserting the mouth of a smaller jar 
upon the top ; the smaller jar thus inverted became the 
dome of the still. In the top of this I bored a hole, in 
which I fitted a long reed of about an inch in diameter, 
which descended to my condenser; the latter was the 
kettle, sunk by a weight in a large pan of cold water. 
My still worked beautifully, and produced four or five 
bottles of good spirit daily; — this I stored in large bottle 
gourds, containing about four gallons each. My men were 
excessively fond of attending to the distillery, especially 
Eicharn, who took a deep interest in the operation, but 
who was frequently found dead asleep on his back ; the 
fire out; and the still at a standstill. Of course he could 
not be suspected of having tried the produce of his manu- 
factory ! I found an extraordinary change in my health 
from the time that I commenced drinking the potato 
whisky. Every day I drank hot toddy. I became strong, 
and from that time to the present day my fever left me, 
occurring only once or twice during the first six months, 
and then quitting me entirely. Not having tasted either 
wine or spirits for nearly two years, the sudden change 
from total abstinence to a moderate allowance of stimu- 
lant produced a marvellous effect. Ibrahim and some of 
his men established stills; several became intoxicated, 
which so delighted M'Gambi, who happened to be present, 
that he begged a bottle of spirit from Ibrahim as a sample 
for Kamrasi. It appears that the king got drunk so quickly 
upon the potent spirit, that he had an especial desire 
to repeat the dose — he called it the maroua (cider) of our 
country, and pronounced it so far superior to his own that 
he determined to establish a factory. When I explained 



Chap. XV.] 



BUTCHERIES BY KAMRASI. 



403 



to him that it was the produce of sweet potatoes, he 
expressed his great regret that he had never sufficiently 
appreciated their value, and he expressed a determination 
to cultivate whole districts. Ibrahim was requested to 
leave one of his men who understood the management of 
a still, to establish and undertake the direction of " King 
Kamrasi's Central African Unyoro Potato- Whisky Com- 
pany, unlimited." 

Ibrahim had brought a variety of presents for Kamrasi : 
fifty pounds of beads, a revolver pistol, cotton cloths, blue 
glass tumblers, looking-glasses, &c. These donations, added 
to the pleasure afforded by the defeat of his enemies, put 
his majesty into excellent humour, and he frequently came 
to visit us. On one occasion I gave him the portraits 
of Speke and Grant : the latter he recognised immediately ; 
he could not understand the pictures in Punch, declaring 
that he {Punch) was not an Englishman, as he neither 
resembled me nor Speke ; but he was exceedingly pleased 
with the Paris fashions in the Illustrated London News, 
which we cut out with a pair of scissors, and gave him as 
specimens of English ladies in full dress. 

The war being concluded by the total discomfiture of 
his enemies, Kamrasi was determined to destroy all those 
inhabitants of Foweera who had in any way connived at 
the attack of the M'was. Daily executions took place in 
the summary manner already described, the victims being 
captured, led before the king, and butchered in his pre- 
sence without a trial. 

Among others suspected as favourable to revolution was 
Kalloe, the chief of Foweera; next to Kamrasi and 
M'Gambi he was the principal man in the kingdom ; he 
was much beloved by the entire population of Chopi and 
Foweera, and I had always found him most intelligent and 
friendly. One night, at about eight o'clock, Ibrahim came 
to my hut looking very mysterious, and after assuring 
himself that no one was present, he confided to me that 
he had received orders from Kamrasi to attack Kalloe^s 
village before daybreak on the following morning, to 
surround his dwelling, and to shoot him as he attempted 

dd2 



404 KAMBASI ORDERS THE MURDER OF KALLOE. [Oh. XV. 

to escape ; Ibrahim was further instructed to capture the 
women and children of the village as his perquisites. At 
the very moment that this treacherous compact had been 
entered into with Ibrahim, Kamrasi had pretended to be 
upon the most friendly terms with Kalloe, who was then 
in his camp ; but he did not lay violent hands upon him, 
as, many of the natives being in his favour, the conse- 
quences might have been disagreeable : thus he had 
secretly ordered his destruction. I at once desired Ibrahim 
at all hazards to renounce so horrible a design. Never 
did I feel so full of revolution as at that moment ; my first 
impulse was to assist KaUoe" to dethrone Kamrasi, and to 
usurp the kingdom. Ibrahim had an eye to business ; he 
knew, that should he offend Kamrasi there would be an 
end to the ivory trade for the present. The country was 
so rich in ivory that it was a perfect bank upon which he 
could draw without limit, provided that he remained an 
ally of the king • but no trade could be carried on with 
the natives, all business being prohibited by Kamrasi, who 
himself monopolised the profits. In the event of war, not 
a tusk would be obtained, as the ivory in possession of the 
natives was never stored in their huts, but was concealed 
in the earth. The Turks were now mercenaries employed 
by the king to do any bloody work that he might require. 
Ibrahim was in a dilemma. I offered to take the entire 
onus upon myself. That Kalloe should not be murdered I 
was determined ; the old man had on several occasions 
been very obliging to me and to my people, and I resolved 
to save him at any risk. His son, perfectly unsuspicious 
of evil, was at that moment in our camp, having frater- 
nized with some of my men. I sent for him immediately, 
and explained the entire plot, concluding by telling him 
to run that instant at full speed to his father (about two 
miles distant), and to send away all the women and 
children from the village, but to bring Kalloe" to my hut ; 
that I would hoist the British flag, as I had done at 
Kisoona, and this should protect him from the blood- 
thirsty Kamrasi, who would not dare to seize him. Should 
he refuse to trust me, he must fly immediately, as the 



Chap. XV.] PURSUIT AND CAPTURE OF EALLOR 405 

Turks would attack trie village before daybreak. Away- 
started the astonished son in the dark night at full speed 
along the well-known path, to give the warning. 

I now arranged with Ibrahim that to avoid offending 
Kamrasi he should make a false attack upon the village 
at the time appointed; he would find it deserted, and 
there would be an end of the matter should Kalloe prefer 
flight to trusting in my protection, which I felt sure he 
would. Midnight arrived, and no signs of Kalloe' had 
appeared ; T went to sleep, satisfied that he was safe. 

Before daybreak eighty men of the Turks' party started 
upon their feigned expedition; in about two hours they 
returned, having found the village deserted ; — the bird had 
flown. I was delighted at the success of this ruse, but I 
should have been more satisfied had Kalloe placed himself 
in my hands : this I had felt sure he would decline, 
as the character of the natives is generally so false and 
mistrustful that he would suspect a snare. 

At about noon we heard yells ; drums were beating 
and horns blowing in all directions. For the moment 
I thought that Kallo6 had raised the country against 
Kamrasi, as I observed many hundred men dressed for 
war, scouring the beautiful open park, like hounds upon 
a scent. The Turks beat their drum and called their 
men under arms beneath the ensign planted outside the 
village, — not knowing the intention of the unusual 
gathering. It shortly transpired that Kamrasi had 
heard of the escape of Kalloe^ and, enraged at the loss 
of his prey, he had immediately started about a thousand 
men in pursuit. 

In the evening I heard that he had been captured. 
I sent to Kamrasi directly, to beg him to postpone his 
execution, as I wished to speak with him on the following 
morning. 

At sunrise I started, and found the king sitting in his 
hut, while Kalloe' was lying under a plantain tree per- 
fectly resigned, with his leg in the Kamrasi shoe; — a 
block of wood of about four feet long and ten inches 
thick (the rough trunk of a tree) ; his left foot had been 



406 / INTERCEDE ON KALLOE'S BEHALF. [Chap. XV. 

thrust through a small hole in the log, while a peg driveD 
through at right angles just above the instep effectually- 
secured the prisoner. This was a favourite punishment of 
the king ; the prisoner might thus languish until released 
fay death ; — it was impossible to sit up, and difficult to lie 
down, the log having to be adjusted by an attendant 
according to the movement of the body. I told Kamrasi 
that as I had saved him from the attack of the Turks at 
Kisoona he must grant me a favour, and spare Kalloe' s 
life : this request, to my astonishment, he at once 
granted,* and added, that he should only keep him in 
the " shoe" for a few days, until his people should bring 
him a hundred cows as a fine, in which case he should 
release him. I had no faith in his promise, as I had 
before heard that it was his practice to put the shoe 
upon any rich man in order to extract a fine, upon the 
payment of which the unfortunate prisoner was on some 
occasions killed instead of liberated "However, I had 
done all in my power; and had Kalloe been a man of 
determination, he could have saved himself by trusting 
implicitly to me. As I returned to the camp, 1 could not 
help reflecting on the ingratitude I had experienced 
among all the natives ; on many occasions I had exerted 
myself to benefit others in whom I had no personal 
interest, but in no single instance had I ever received 
even a look of gratitude. 

Two days after this occurrence I ordered the boy Saat 
to go as usual in search of supplies to the neighbouring 
villages ; but as he was starting, Ibrahim advised him to 
wait a little, as something was wrong, and it would be 
dangerous to go alone. A few minutes later, I heard three 
shots fired in rapid succession at about three-quarters of 
a mile distant. The Turks and my men immediately 
thronged outside the village, which position being on a 
hill, we had a panoramic view of the surrounding country. 
We shortly perceived a number of men, including a few 
of the Turks' party, approaching from an opposite hill, 
carrying something heavy in their arms. "With the 
* A few days afterwards he shot Kalloe with his own hands. 



Chap. XV.] TEE WARNING. 407 

telescope I distinguished a mat on which some object of 
weight was laboriously supported, the bearers grasping the 
corners in their hands. " One of our people is killed ! " 
murmured one Turk. " Perhaps it's only a native/' said 
another. " Who would trouble himself to carry a black 
fellow home ! " exclaimed a third. The mystery was soon 
cleared by the arrival of the party with the dead body 
of one of Kamrasi's headmen ; — one ball had struck him 
through the chest, another through the right arm, and the 
third had passed through the body from side to side. He 
had been shot by some Bari slaves who acted as soldiers 
belonging to the Turks' party. It appeared that the 
deceased had formerly sent seventy elephants' tusks to 
the people of Mahommed Wat-el-Mek against the orders 
of Kamrasi, who had prohibited the export of ivory from 
his kingdom, as he had agreed to deal exclusively with 
Ibrahim. The culprit was therefore condemned to death, 
but having some powerful adherents in his village, 
Kamrasi had thought it advisable to employ the Turks 
to shoot him; — this task they gladly accepted, as they 
were minus seventy tusks through his conduct. Without 
my knowledge, a small party had started in open daylight 
to his village close to our camp, and on attempting to 
enter the fence, several lances were thrown at the Turks ; 
the deceased rushed from the hut attempting to escape, 
and was immediately shot dead by three of the Bari 
soldiers. The hands were then (as usual in all these 
countries) amputated at the wrists, in order to detach 
the copper bracelets; the body being dragged about two 
hundred paces from the village, was suspended by the 
neck to a branch of the tamarind tree. All the slave 
women (about seventy) and children were then driven 
down to the spot by the Turks to view the body as it 
swung from the branch; when thoroughly horrified by 
the sight, they were threatened to be served precisely 
in a similar manner should they ever attempt to escape. 
Superlatively brutal as this appeared, I could not help 
reflecting that our public executions in England convey 
a similar moral ; the only difference being in the conduct 



408 POWER OF KJMRASI. [Chap. XV. 

of the women; the savages having to be driven to 
the sight as witnesses, while European females throng 
curiously to such disgusting exhibitions. A few minutes 
after the departure of the crowd, the tree was covered 
with vultures, all watching the prospective feast.* 

In the evening Kamrasi sent a number of women and 
children as presents to Ibrahim : altogether he had given 
him seventy -two slaves in addition to those captured in 
the various wars. There never was a more supreme 
despot than the king Kamrasi — not only the property, 
but the families of his subjects were at his disposal ; — 
he boasted that "all belonged to him." Thus, when 
disposed to. be liberal, he took from others and bestowed 
upon his favourites; should any sufferer complain, there 
were no lawyer's costs, but the "shoe," or death. His 
power depended upon a perfect system of espionage, by 
which he obtained a knowledge of all that passed through- 
out his kingdom; — that being divided into numerous 
small districts, each governed by a chief, who was 
responsible for the acts committed within his jurisdic- 
tion, the government was wonderfully simplified. Should 
a complaint be made against a governor, he was summoned 
before the king ; if guilty, death, or the " shoe ! " To be 
suspected of rebellion, was to die. A body-guard of 
about 500 men, who were allowed to pillage the country 
at discretion, secured the power of the king, as with this 
organized force always at hand he could pounce upon the 
suspected and extinguish them at once : thus the tyrant 
held his sway over a population so timid that they yielded 
tamely to his oppression. Having now allied himself to 
the Turks, he had conceived the most ambitious views of 
conquering Uganda, and of restoring the ancient kingdom 
of Kitwara; but the total absence of physical courage 
will utterly frustrate such plans for extension, and 
Kamrasi the Cruel will never be known as Kamrasi the 
Conqueror. 

* The woman Bacheeta ran away, and we never saw her again. Some 
time after, we heard that she had escaped to Fowooka's people, fearing to 
he left hy its, as we had promised, in Chopi. 



OHAPTEE XVI. 

KAMBdSPS ADIEU. 

IT was the middle of November — not the wretched 
month that chills even the recollection of Old 
England, but the last of the ten months of rain that 
causes the wonderful vegetation of the fertile soil in 
Equatorial Africa. The Turks were ready to return to 
Shooa, and I longed for the change from this brutal 
country to the still wilder but less bloody tribe of Madi, 
to the north. 

The quantity of ivory in camp was so large that we 
required 700 porters to carry both tusks and provisions, &c. 
for the five days' march through uninhabited country. 
Kamrasi came to see us before we parted; he had pro- 
vided the requisite porters. We were to start on the 
following day ; he arrived with the Blissett rifle that had 
been given him by Speke. He told me that he was sorry 
we were going ; and he was much distressed that he had 
burst his rifle ! — he had hammered a large bullet in the 
endeavour to fit the bore ; and the lump of lead having 
stuck in the middle, he had fired his rifle and split the 
barrel, which being of remarkably good metal had simply 
opened. He told me that it did not matter so very much 
after all, as he had neither powder nor ball — (this was 
false, as Ibrahim had just given him a quantity), therefore 
his rifle would have been useless if sound ; but he added, 
" You are now going home, where you can obtain all you 
require, therefore you will want for nothing ; give me, 
before you leave, the little double-barrelled rifle that you 
promised me, and a supply of ammunition ! " To the last 
moment he was determined to persevere hi his demand, 
and, if possible, to obtain my handy little Fletcher 24 rifle, 
that had been demanded and refused ever since my resi- 



410 WE QUIT KAMRJSPS TERRITORY. [Chap. XVI, 

dence in his country. I was equally persistent in my 
refusal, telling him that there were many dangers on the 
road, and I could not travel unarmed. 

On the following morning our people crossed the river : 
this was a tedious operation, as our party consisted of 
about 700 porters and eighty armed men: Ibrahim had 
arranged to leave thirty men with Kamrasi to protect him 
from the M'was until he should return in the following 
season, when he promised to bring him a great variety of 
presents. By 4 p.m. the whole party had crossed the 
river with ivory and baggage. We now brought up the 
rear, and descended some fine crags of granite to the 
water's edge ; there were several large canoes in attendance, 
one of which we occupied, and, landing on the opposite 
shore, we climbed up the steep ascent and looked back 
upon Unyoro, in which we had passed ten months of 
wretchedness. It had poured with rain on the preceding 
day, and the natives had constructed a rough camp of 
grass huts. 

On the break of day on the 17th November we started. 
It would be tedious to describe the journey, as, although 
by a different route, it was through the same country that 
we had traversed on our arrival from Shooa. After the 
first day's march we quitted the forest and entered upon 
the great prairies. I was astonished to find after several 
days' journey a great difference in the dryness of the 
climate. In Unyoro we had left the grass an intense 
green, the rain having been frequent : here it was nearly 
dry, and in many places it had been burnt by the native 
hunting parties. From some elevated points in the route 
I could distinctly make out the outline of the mountains 
running from the Albert lake to the north, on the west 
bank of the Nile ; these would hardly have been observed 
by a person who was ignorant of their existence, as the 
grass was so high that I had to ascend a white ant-hill to 
look for them ; they were about sixty miles distant, and 
my men, who knew them well, pointed them out to their 
companions. 

The entire party, including women and children, 



ll,r ' ' 
m 

Mil 




Chap. XVI.] 



MARCH TO SHOO A. 



411 



amounted to about 1,000 people. Although they had 
abundance of flour, there was no meat, and the grass being 
high there was no chance of game. On the fourth day 
only I saw a herd of about twenty t£tel (hartebeest) in an 
open space that had been recently burnt. We were both 
riding upon oxen that I had purchased of Ibrahim, and 
we were about a mile ahead of the flag in the hope of 
getting a shot ; dismounting from my animal, I stalked, the 
game down a ravine, but upon reaching the point that I 
had resolved upon for the shot, I found the herd had 
moved their position to about 250 paces from me. They 
were all looking at me, as they had been disturbed by the 
oxen and the boy Saat in the distance. Dinner depended 
on the shot. There was a leafless bush singed by the' 
recent fire ; upon a branch of this I took a rest, but just as 
I was going to fire they moved off — a clean miss ! — whizz 
went the bullet over them, but so close to the ears of one 
that it shook its head as though stung by a wasp, 'and 
capered round and round ; the others stood perfectly still, 
gazing at the oxen in the distance. Crack went the left- 
hand barrel of the little Fletcher 24, and down went a 
tetel like a lump of lead, before the satisfactory sound of 
the bullet returned from the distance. Off went the herd, 
leaving a fine beast kicking on the ground. It was shot 
through the spine, and some of the native porters, having 
witnessed the sport from a great distance, threw down their 
loads and came racing towards the meat like a pack of 
wolves scenting blood. In a few minutes the prize was 
divided, while a good portion was carried by Saat for our 
own use; the tetel, weighing about 500 lbs. vanished 
among the crowd in a few minutes. 

On the fifth day's march from the Victoria Nile we 
arrived at Shooa ; the change was delightful after the wet 
and dense vegetation of Unyoro : the country was dry, 
and the grass low and of fine quality. We took possession 
of our camp, that had already been prepared for us in a 
large courtyard well cemented with cow-dung and clay, 
and fenced with a strong row of palisades. A large tree 
grew in the centre. Several huts were erected for inter- 



412 THE LIRA TRIBE. [Chap. XVI. 

preters and servants, and a tolerably commodious hut, the 
roof overgrown with pumpkins, was arranged for our 
mansion. 

That evening the native women crowded to our camp to 
welcome my wife home, and to dance in honour of our 
return ; for which exhibition they expected a present 
of a cow. 

Much to my satisfaction, I found that my first-rate 
riding ox that had been lamed during the previous year by 
falling into a pitfall, and had been returned to Shooa, was 
perfectly recovered ; thus I had a good mount for my 
journey to Gondokoro. 

Some months were passed at Shooa, during which I 
occupied my time by rambling about the neighbourhood, 
ascending the mountain, making duplicates of my maps, 
and gathering information, all of which was simply a 
corroboration of what I had heard before, excepting from 
the East. The Turks had discovered a new country called 
Lira, about thirty miles from Shooa ; the natives were 
reported as extremely friendly, and their country as won- 
derfully fertile and rich in ivory. Many of the people 
were located in the Turks' camp ; they were the same type 
as the Madi, but wore their hair in a different form : it 
was woven into a thick felt, which covered the shoulders, 
and extended as low upon the back as the shoulder-blade. 
They were not particular about wearing false hair, but 
were happy to receive subscriptions from any source ; in 
case of death the hair of the deceased was immediately 
cut off and shared among his friends to be added to their 
felt. When in full dress (the men being naked) this mass 
of felt was plastered thickly with a bluish clay, so as to 
form an even surface; this was most elaborately worked 
with the point of a thorn, so as to resemble the cuttings of 
a file : white pipe-clay was then arranged in patterns on 
the surface, while an ornament made of either an ante- 
lope's or giraffe's sinew was stuck in the extremity and 
turned up for about a foot in length. This when dry was 
as stiff as horn, and the tip was ornamented with a tuft 
of fur — the tip of a leopard's tail being highly prized. 



Chap. XVI.] NATIVES' AND LAWYERS' WIGS. 413 

I am not aware that any Lord Chancellor of England or 
any member of the English bar has ever penetrated to 
Central Africa, therefore the origin of the fashion and the 
similarity in the wigs is most extraordinary ; a well- 
blacked barrister in full wig and nothing else would 
thoroughly impersonate a native of Lira. The tribe of 
Lira was governed by a chief ; but he had no more real 
authority than any of the petty chiefs who ruled the 
various portions of the Madi country. Throughout the 
tribes, excepting the kingdom of Unyoro, the chiefs had 
very little actual power, and so uncertain was their tenure 
of office that the rule seldom remained two generations in 
one family. On the death of the father, the numerous 
sons generally quarrelled for his property and for the right 
of succession, ending in open war, and in dividing the 
flocks and herds, each settling in a separate district and 
becoming a petty chief ; thus there was no union through- 
out the country, and consequently great weakness. The 
people of Lira were fighting with their friends the Langgos 
— those of Shooa with the natives of Eatiko; nor were 
there two neighbouring tribes that were at peace. It was 
natural that such unprincipled parties as the Khartoum 
traders should turn this general discord to their own 
advantage ; thus within the ten months that I had been 
absent from Shooa a great change had taken place in 
the neighbourhood. The rival parties of Koorshid and 
Debono, under their respective leaders, Ibrahim and 
Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, had leagued themselves with 
contending tribes, and the utter ruin of the country was 
the consequence. For many miles' circuit from Shooa, the 
blackened ruins of villages and deserted fields bore witness 
to the devastation committed; cattle that were formerly 
in thousands, had been driven off, and the beautiful dis- 
trict that had once been most fertile was reduced to a 
wilderness. By these wholesale acts of robbery and de- 
struction the Turks had damaged their own interests, as 
the greater number of the natives had fled to other coun- 
tries ; thus it was most difficult to obtain porters to convey 
the ivory to Gondokoro. The people of the country had 



414 LOSS OF CATTLE BY THE TURKS. [Chap. XVI. 

been so spoiled by the payment in cows instead of beads 
for the most trifling services, that they now refused to 
serve as porters to Gondokoro under a payment of four 
cows each ; thus, as 1,000 men were required, 4,000 
cows were necessary as payment. Accordingly razzias 
must be made. 

Upon several expeditions, the Turks realized about 
2,000 cows ; the natives had become alert, and had driven off 
their herds to inaccessible mountains. Debono's people at 
their camp, about twenty-five miles distant, were even in a 
worse position than Ibrahim ; they had so exasperated the 
natives by their brutal conduct, that tribes formerly hostile 
to each other now coalesced and combined to thwart the 
Turks by declining to act as porters ; thus their supply of 
ivory could not be transported to Gondokoro. This led to 
extra violence on the part of the Turks, until at last the 
chief of Faloro (Werdella) declared open Avar, and sud- 
denly driving off the Turks' cattle, he retired to the 
mountains, from whence he sent an impertinent message 
inviting Mahommed to try to rescue them. 

This act of insolence united the rival trading parties 
against Werdella : those of Ibrahim and Mahommed 
agreed to join in an attack upon his village. They started 
with ,a force of about 300 armed men, and arriving at the 
foot of the mountains at about 4 a.m. they divided their 
force into two parties of 150 men each, and ascended the 
rocky hill upon two sides, intending to surprise the village 
on one side, while the natives and their herds would be 
intercepted in their flight upon the other. 

The chief, Werdella, was well experienced in the affairs 
of the Turks, as he had been for two or three years en- 
gaged with them in many razzias upon the adjoining tribes • 
— he had learnt to shoot while acting as their ally, and 
having received as presents two muskets, and two brace of 
pistols from Debono's nephew Amabil^, he thought it 
advisable to supply himself with ammunition ; he had 
therefore employed his people to steal a box of 500 car- 
ridges and a parcel containing 10,000 percussion caps from 
Mahommed's camp. Werdella was a remarkably plucky 



Chap. XVI.] THE FIGHT WITH WERDELLA. 415 

fellow; and thus strengthened by powder and ball, and 
knowing the character of the Turks, he resolved to fight. 

Hardly had the Turks' party of 150 men advanced half 
way up the mountain path in their stealthy manner of 
attempting a surprise, when they were assailed by a shower 
of arrows, and the leader who carried the flag fell dead at 
the report of a musket fired from behind a rock. Startled 
at this unexpected attack, the Turks' party recoiled, leaving 
their flag upon the ground by the dead standard-bearer. 
Before they had time to recover from their first panic, 
another shot was fired from the same shelter at a distance 
of about thirty paces, and the brains of one of the Turks' 
party were splattered over his comrades, as the ball took 
the top of his head completely off. Three Bagara Arabs, 
first-rate elephant-hunters, who were with the Turks, now 
rushed forward and saved the flag and a box of ammuni- 
tion that the porter had thrown down in his flight. These 
Arabs, whose courage was of a different class to that of 
the traders' party, endeavoured to rally the panic-stricken 
Turks, but just as they were feebly and irresolutely ad- 
vancing, another shot rang from the same fatal rock, and a 
man who carried a box of cartridges fell dead. This was 
far too hot for the traders' people, who usually had it all 
their own way, being alone possessed of fire-arms. A dis- 
graceful flight took place, but Werdella was again too 
much for them. On their arrival at the bottom of the hill, 
they ran round the base to join the other division of their 
party; this effected, they were consulting together as to 
retreat or advance, when close above their heads from an 
overhanging rock another shot was fired, and a man 
dropped, shot through the chest. The head of Werdella 
was distinctly seen grinning in triumph ; — the whole party 
fired at him ! " He's down ! " was shouted, as the head 
disappeared ; — a puff of smoke from the rock, and a shriek 
from one of the Turks at the sound of another musket- 
shot from the same spot, settled the question ; a man fell 
mortally wounded. Four men were shot dead, and one 
was brought home by the crestfallen party to die in two or 
three days ; five shots had been fired, and five killed, 



416 DEFEAT OF TRADERS' PARTY. [Chap. XVL 

by one native armed with, two guns against 300 men. 
" Bravo, Werclella !" I exclaimed, as the beaten party 
returned to camp and Ibrahim described the tight. He 
deserved the Victoria Cross. This defeat completely cowed 
the cowardly Turks ; nor would any persuasions on the 
part of Ibrahim induce them to make another razzia 
within the territory of the redoubted chief, Werdella. 

During the absence of the traders' party upon various 
expeditions, about fifty men were left in their camp as 
head-quarters. Nothing cotdd exceed the brutality of the 
people ; — they had erected stills, and produced a powerful 
corn spirit from the native merissa ; — their entire time was 
passed in gambling, drinking, and fighting, both by night 
and day. The natives were ill-treated, their female slaves 
and children brutally ill-used, and the entire camp was a 
mere slice from the infernal regions. My portion of the 
camp being a secluded courtyard, we were fortunately 
independent. 

On one occasion a razzia had been made ; and although 
unsuccessful in cattle, it had been productive in slaves. 
Among the captives was a pretty young girl of about 
fifteen; she had been sold by auction in the camp, as 
usual, the day after the return from the razzia, and had 
fallen to the lot of one of the men. Some days after her 
capture, a native from the village that had been plundered 
confidently arrived at the camp with the intention of offer- 
ing ivory for her ransom. Hardly had he entered the 
gateway, when the girl, who was sitting at the door of her 
owner's hut, caught sight of him, and springing to her feet, 
she ran as fast as her chained ankles would allow her, and 
threw herself in his arms, exclaiming, " My father ! " It 
was her father, who had thus risked his life in the enemy's 
camp to ransom his child. 

The men who were witnesses to this scene immediately 
rushed upon the unfortunate man, tore him from his 
daughter, and bound him tightly with cords. 

While this was enacting, I happened to be in my hut : 
thus I was not an eye-witness. About an. hour later, I 
called some of my men to assist me in cleaning some rifles. 



Chap. XVI.] RUNAWAY SLAVES RECAPTURED. 417 

Hardly had we commenced, when three shots were fired; 
within a hundred paces of my hut. My men exclaimed, 
" They have shot the Abid (native) ! " " What native ? " I 
inquired. They then related the story I have just de- 
scribed. Brutal as these blood-thirsty villains were, I could 
hardly believe in so cold-blooded a murder. I immediately 
sent my people and the boy Saat to verify it ; they returned 
with the report that the wretched father was sitting on the 
ground, bound to a tree, — dead; shot by three balls. 

I must do Ibrahim the justice to explain that he was 
not in the camp ; had he been present, this murder would 
not have been committed, as he scrupulously avoided any 
such acts in my vicinity. A few days later, a girl about 
sixteen, and her mother, who were slaves, were miss- 
ing; they had escaped. The hue and cry was at once 
raised. Ibrahimawa, the " Sinbad " of Bornu, who had 
himself been a slave, was the most indefatigable slave- 
hunter. He and a party at once started upon the tracks 
of the fugitives. They did not return until the following 
day ; but where was the runaway who could escape from 
so true a bloodhound? The young girl and her mother 
were led into camp tied together by the neck, aud were 
immediately condemned to be hanged. I happened to be 
present, as, knowing the whole affair, I had been anxiously 
awaiting the result. I took this opportunity of explaining 
to the Turks that I would use any force to prevent such an 
act, and that I would report the names of all those to the 
Egyptian authorities who should commit any murder that 
I could prove ; neither would I permit the two captives to 
be flogged — they were accordingly pardoned.* 

There was among the slaves a woman who had been 
captured in the attack upon Fowooka. This woman I have 
already mentioned as having a very beautiful boy, who at 
the time of the capture was a little more than a year old. 
So determined was her character, that she had run away 

* It will be observed that at this period of the expedition I had acquired 
an extraordinary influence over the people, that enabled me to exert an 
authority which saved the lives of many unfortunate creatures who would 
otherwise have been victims. 

E E 



418 LITTLE ABB AI. [Chap. XVI. 

five times with her child, but on every occasion she had 
been recaptured, after having suffered much by hunger and 
thirst in endeavouring to find her way back to TTnyoro 
through the uninhabited wilderness between Shooa and 
Karuma. On the last occasion of her capture, the Turks 
had decided upon her being incorrigible, therefore she had 
received 144 blows with the coorbatch (hippopotamus 
whip), and had been sold separately from her child to the 
party belonging to Mahommed Wat-el-Mek. Little Abbai 
had always been a great pet of Mrs. Baker's, and the un- 
fortunate child being now motherless, he was naturally 
adopted, and led a most happy life. Although much under 
two years old, he was quite equal in precocity to a European 
child of three ; in form and strength he was a young Her- 
cules, and, although so young, he would frequently follow 
me out shooting for two or three miles, and return home 
with a guinea-fowl hanging over his shoulder, or his hands 
full of pigeons. Abbai became very civilized; he was 
taught to make a Turkish " salaam " upon receiving a 
present, and to wash his hands both before and after his 
meals. He had the greatest objection to eat alone, and he 
generally invited three or four friends of about his own age 
to dine with him ; on such occasions, a large wooden bowl, 
about twenty inches in diameter, was filled with soup and 
porridge, around which steaming dish the young party sat, 
happier in their slavery than kings in power. There were 
two lovely girls of three and eight years of age that be- 
longed to Ibrahim; these were not black, but of the same 
dark brown tint as Kamrasi and many of the Unyoro 
people. Their mother was also there, and their history 
Toeing most pitiable, they were always allowed free access 
to our hut and the dinner bowl. These two girls were the 
daughters of Owine, one of the great chiefs who were 
allied with Fowooka against Kamrasi. After the defeat of 
Eowooka, Owine and many of his people with their families 
quitted the country, and forming an alliance with Ma- 
hommed Wat-el-Mek, they settled in the neighbourhood of 
his camp at Faloro, and built a village. For some time 
they were on the best terms, but some cattle of the Turks 



Chap. XVI.] THE CHILDREN OF THE CAMP. 419 

being missed, suspicion fell upon the new settlers. The 
men of Mahommed's party desired that they might be 
expelled, and Mahommed, in a fit of drunken fury, at once 
ordered them to be massacred. His men, eager for murder 
and plunder, immediately started upon their bloody errand, 
and surrounding the unsuspecting colony, they fired the 
huts and killed every man, including the chief, Owine; 
capturing the women and children as slaves. Ibrahim 
had received the mother and two girls as presents from 
Mahommed Wat-el- Mek. As the two rival companies had 
been forced to fraternize, owing to the now generally hostile 
attitude of the surrounding tribes, the leaders had become 
wonderfully polite, exchanging presents, getting drunk 
together upon raw spirits, and behaving in a brotherly 
manner — according to their ideas of fraternity. There was 
a peculiar charm in the association with children in this 
land of hardened hearts and savage natures : there is a 
time in the life of the most savage animal when infancy is 
free from the fierce instincts of race ; even the lion's whelp 
will fondle the hand that it would tear in riper years : 
thus, separated in this land of horrors from all civilization, 
and forced by hard necessity into the vicinity of all that 
was brutal and disgusting, it was an indescribable relief to 
be surrounded by those who were yet innocent, and who 
clung in their forsaken state to those who looked upon 
them with pity. We had now six little dependents, none 
of whom could ever belong to us, as they were all slaves, 
but who were well looked after by my wife ; fed, amused, 
and kept clean. The boy Abbai was the greatest favourite, 
as, having neither father nor mother, he claimed the 
greatest care : he was well washed every morning, and 
then to his great delight smeared all over from head to 
toes with red ochre and grease, with a cock's feather stuck 
in his woolly pate. He was then a most charming pet 
savage, and his toilette completed, he invariably sat next 
to his mistress, drinking a gourd-shell of hot milk, while I 
smoked my early morning pipe beneath the tree. I made 
bows and arrows ior my boys, and taught them to shoot at 
a mark, a large pumpkin being carved into a man's head 

e e 2 



420 SHOOT A CROCODILE. [Chap. XVI. 

to excite their aim. Thus the days were passed until the 
evening ; at that time a large fire was lighted to create a 
blaze, drums were collected, and after dinner a grand dance 
was kept up by the children, until the young Abbai ended 
regularly by creeping under my wife's chair, and falling 
sound asleep : from this protected spot he was carried to 
his mat, wrapped up in a piece of old flannel (the best 
cloth we had), in which he slept till morning. Poor little 
Abbai ! I often wonder what will be his fate, and whether 
in his dreams he recalls the few months of happiness that 
brightened his earliest days of slavery. 

Although we were in good health in Shooa, many of the 
men were ill, suffering generally from headache ; also from 
ulcerated legs ; — the latter was a peculiar disease, as the 
ulcer generally commenced upon the ankle bone and ex- 
tended to such a degree that the patient was rendered 
incapable of walking. The treatment for headache among 
all the savage tribes was a simple cauterization of the 
forehead in spots burnt with a hot iron close to the roots 
of the hair. The natives declared that the water was 
unwholesome from the small stream at the foot of the hill, 
and that all those who drank from the well were in good 
health. I went down to examine the spring, which I found 
beautifully clear, while the appearance of the stream was 
quite sufficient to explain the opposite quality. As I was 
walking quietly along the bank, I saw a bright ray of 
light in the grass upon the opposite side ; in another 
moment I perceived the head of a crocodile which was 
concealed in the grass, the brightness of the sun's reflection 
upon the eye having attracted my attention. A shot with 
the little 24 rifle struck just above the eye and killed 
it ; — it was a female, from which we extracted seven 
large eggs, all with hard shells. 

The shooting that I had while at Shooa was confined 
to antelopes ; of these there was no variety excepting 
waterbuck ana hartebeest. Whenever I shot an animal, 
the Shooa natives would invariably cut its throat, and 
drink the not blood as it gushed from the artery. In 
this neigh bournood there was a great scarcity of game ; 



Chap. XVI.] 



THE BLACK RHINOCEROS. 



421 



the natives of Lira described their country as teeming with 
elephants -and rhinoceros ; a fine horn of the latter they 
brought with them to Shooa. There is only one variety 
of rhinoceros that I have met with in the portions of 
Africa that I have visited : this is the two-horned, a 
very exact sketch of which I made of the head of one 
that I cut off after I had shot it. This two-horned black 
rhinoceros is extremely vicious. I have remarked that 




HEAD OF BLACK RHINOCEROS 



they almost invariably charge any enemy that they smell, 
but do not see ; they generally retreat if they observe the 
object before obtaining the wind. 

In my rambles in search of game, I found two varieties 
of cotton growing indigenous to the country : one with 
a yellow blossom was so short in the staple as to be 
worthless, but the other (a red blossom) produced a fine 
quality that was detached with extreme ease from the 
seeds. A sample of this variety I brought to England, 



422 



THE LIRA CHIEF. 



[Chap. XVI. 



and deposited the seed at the Eoyal Botanical Gardens 
at Kew. A large quantity was reported to be grown at 
Lira, some of which was brought me by the chief ; this 
was the inferior kind. I sketched the old chief of Lira, 
who when in full dress wore a curious ornament of cowrie- 
shells upon his felt wig that gave him a most comical 
appearance, as he looked like the caricature of an English 




THE CHIEF OF THE LIRA TRIBE. 



judge. The Turks had extended their excursions in their 
search for ivory, and they returned from an expedition 
sixty miles east of Shooa, bringing with them two donkeys 
that they had obtained from the natives. This was an 
interesting event, as for nearly two years I had heard from 
the natives of Latooka, and from those of Unyoro, that 
donkeys existed in a country to the east. These animals 



Chap. XVII] THE NATIVES IN MOURNING. 423 

were the same in appearance as those of the Soudan; — 
the natives never rode, but simply used them to transport 
wood from the forest to their villages ; — the people were 
reported as the same in language and appearance as the 
Lira tribe. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE hour of deliverance from our long sojourn in 
Central Africa was at hand ; — it was the month of 
February, and the boats would be at Gondokoro. The 
Turks had packed their ivory; the large tusks were 
fastened to poles to be carried by two men, and the camp 
was a perfect mass of this valuable material. I counted 
609 loads of upwards of 50 lbs. each ; thirty-one loads 
were lying at an out-station : therefore the total results 
of the ivory campaign during the last twelve months 
were about 32,000 lbs., equal to about £9,630 when 
delivered in Egypt. This was a perfect fortune for 
Koorshid. 

We were ready to start. My baggage was so unimpor- 
tant that I was prepared to forsake everything, and to 
march straight for Gondokoro independently with my own 
men ; but this the Turks assured me was impracticable, 
as the country was so hostile in advance that we must 
of necessity have some fighting on the road ; the Bari 
tribe would dispute our right to pass through their ter- 
ritory. The porters were all engaged to transport the 
ivory, but I observed that the greater number were in 
mourning for either lost friends or cattle, having ropes 
twisted round their necks and waists, as marks of sorrow. 
About 800 men received payment of cattle in advance ; — 
the next day they had all absconded with their cows, 
having departed during the night. This was a planned 
affair to "spoil the Egyptians : " a combination had been 
entered into some months before by the Madi and Shooa 
tribes, to receive payment and to abscond, but to leave 



424 PREPARATIONS FOR RETURN HOME. [Chap. XVII. 

the Turks helpless to remove their stock of ivory. The 
people of Mahommed Wat-el-Mek were in a similar 
dilemma ; not a tusk could be delivered at Gondokoro. 
This was not my affair. The greater portion of Ibrahim's 
immense store of ivory had been given to him by 
Kamrasi ; I had guaranteed him a hundred cantars 
(10,000 lbs.) should he quit Obbo and proceed to the 
unknown south; — in addition to a large quantity that 
he had collected and delivered at Gondokoro in the past 
year, he had now more than three times that amount. 
Although Kamrasi had on many occasions offered the 
ivory to me, I had studiously avoided the acceptance of 
a single tusk, as I wished the Turks to believe that I 
would not mix myself up with trade in any form, and that 
my expedition had purely the one object that I had ex- 
plained to Ibrahim when I first won him over on the road 
to Ellyria more than two years ago, — " the discovery of the 
Albert lake." With a certain number of presents of first- 
class forty-guinea rifles and guns, &c. &c, to Ibrahim, I 
declared my intention of starting for Gondokoro. My 
trifling articles of baggage were packed : a few of the Lira 
natives were to act as porters, as, although the ivory could 
not be transported, it was necessary for Ibrahim to send 
a strong party to Gondokoro to procure ammunition and 
the usual supplies forwarded annually from Khartoum ; — 
the Lira people who carried my luggage would act as 
return porters. 

The day arrived for our departure; — the oxen were 
saddled and we were ready to start. Crowds of people 
came to say " good bye," but, dispensing with the hand- 
kissing of the Turks who were to remain in camp, we pre- 
pared for our journey towards home. Far away although 
it was, every step would bring us nearer. Nevertheless 
there were ties even in this wild spot, where all was savage 
and unfeeling — ties that were painful to sever, and that 
caused a sincere regret to both of us when we saw our 
little flock of unfortunate slave children crying at the idea 
of separation. In this moral desert, where all humanized 
feelings were withered and parched like the sands of 



Ghap. XVII.] PART REGRETFULLY WITH CHILDREN. 425 

the Soudan, the giiilelessness of the children had been 
welcomed like springs of water, as the only refreshing 
feature in a land of sin and darkness. "Where are you 
going ? " cried poor little Abbai in the broken Arabic that 
we had taught him. " Take me with you, Sitty ! " (lady), 
and he followed us down the path, as we regretfully left 
our proteges, with his fists tucked into his eyes, weeping 
from his heart, although for his own mother he had not 
shed a tear. We could not take him with us ; — he be- 
longed to Ibrahim ; and had I purchased the child to 
rescue him from his hard lot and to rear him as a civilized 
being, I might have been charged with slave dealing. 
With heavy hearts we saw him taken up in the arms of 
a woman and carried back to camp, to prevent him from 
following our party, that had now started. 

We had turned our backs fairly upon the south, and 
we now travelled for several days through most beautiful 
park-like lands, crossing twice the Un-y-Ame stream, that 
rises in the country between Shooa and Unyoro, and 
arriving at the point of junction of this river with the 
Nile, in latitude 3° 32' N. On the north bank of the 
Un-y-Ame, about three miles from the embouchure of that 
river where it flows into the Nile, the tamarind tree was 
shown me that forms the limit of Signor Miani's journey 
from Gondokoro, the extreme point reached by any traveller 
from the north until the date of my expedition. This tree 
bore the name of " Shedder-el-Sowar" (the traveller's tree), 
by which it was known to the traders' parties. Several of 
the men belonging to Ibrahim, also Mahommed Wat-el- 
Mek, the vakeel of Debono's people, had accompanied 
Signor Miani on his expedition to this spot. Loggo, the 
Bari interpreter, who had constantly acted for me during 
two years, happened to have been the interpreter of Signor 
Miani ; — he confessed to me how he had been compelled 
by his master's escort to deceive him, by pretending that a 
combined attack was to be made upon them by the natives. 
Upon this excuse, Miani's men refused to proceed, and 
determined to turn back to Gondokoro; — thus ended his 
expedition. I regarded the tree that marked the limit of 



426 VIEW OF THE NILE. [Chap. XVII. 

his journey with much sympathy. I remembered how I 
had formerly contended with similar difficulties, and how 
heart-breaking it would have been to have returned, baffled 
by the misconduct of my own people, when the determi- 
nation of my heart urged me forward to the south ; — thus 
I appreciated the disappointment that so enterprising a 
traveller must have felt in sorrowfully cutting his name 
upon the tree, and leaving it as a record of misfortune. 
With a just tribute to the perseverance that had carried 
him farther than any European traveller had penetrated 
before him, we continued our route over a most beautiful 
park of verdant grass, diversified by splendid tamarind 
trees, the dark foliage of which afforded harbour for great 
numbers of the brilliant yellow-breasted pigeon. We 
shortly ascended a rocky mountain by a stony and diffi- 
cult pass, and upon arrival at the summit, about 800 feet 
above the Nile, which lay in front at about two miles' dis- 
tance, we halted to enjoy the magnificent view. "Hurrah 
for the old Nile ! " I exclaimed, as I revelled in the scene 
before me : here it was, fresh from its great parent, the 
Albert lake, in all the grandeur of Africa's mightiest river. 
From our elevated point we looked down upon a broad 
sheet of unbroken water, winding through marshy ground, 
flowing from W.S.W. The actual breadth of clear water, 
independent of the marsh and reedy banks, was about 400 
yards, but, as usual in the deep and fiat portions of the 
White Nile, the great extent of reeds growing in deep 
water rendered any estimate of the positive width ex- 
tremely vague. We could discern the course of this great 
river for about twenty miles, and distinctly trace the line 
of mountains on the west bank that we had seen at about 
sixty miles' distance when on the route from Karuma to 
Shooa ; — the commencement of this chain we had seen 
when at Magungo, forming the Koshi frontier of the Nile. 
The country opposite to the point on which we now stood 
was Koshi, which, forming the west bank of the Nile, 
extended the entire way to the Albert lake. The country 
that we occupied was Madi, which extended as the east 
bank of the Nile to the angle of the Victoria Nile (or 



Chap. XVII.] GEBEL EOOKOO. 427 

Somerset river) junction opposite Magnngo. These two 
countries, Koshi and Madi, we had seen from Magungo 
when we had viewed the exit of the Nile from the lake, as 
though a tail-like continuation of the water, until lost in the 
distance of the interminable valley of high reeds. Having, 
from Magungo, in lat. 2° 16', looked upon the course of the 
river far to the north, and from the high pass, our present 
point, in lat. 3° 34' N., we now comprised an extensive 
view of the river to the south; the extremities of the 
limits of view from north and south would almost meet, 
and leave a mere trifle of a few miles not actually in- 
spected. 

Exactly opposite the summit of the pass from which we 
now scanned the country, rose the precipitous mountain 
known as Gebel Kookoo, which rose to a height of about 
2,500 feet above the level of the Nile, and formed the pro- 
minent feature of a chain which bordered the west bank of 
the Nile with few breaks to the north, until within thirty 
miles of Gondokoro. The pass upon which we stood was 
the southern extremity of a range of high rocky hills that 
formed the east cliff of the Nile; — thus the broad and 
noble stream that arrived from the Albert lake in a sheet 
of unbroken water received the Un-y-Ame" river, and then 
suddenly entered the pass between the two chains of hills, 
— Gebel Kookoo on the west, and the ridge that we now 
occupied upon the east. The mouth of the Un-y-Ame 
river was the limit of navigation from the Albert lake. 
As far as the eye could reach to the south-west, the 
country was dead flat and marshy throughout the course 
of the river : this appearance proving the correctness of the 
information I had received from the natives of Unyoro, and 
from Kamrasi himself, that the Nile was navigable for some 
days' journey from the Albert lake. Precisely the same 
information had been given to Speke, and the river level at 
this point showed by his thermometer so great a difference 
between that of Karuma, that he had concluded the fall of 
1,000 feet must exist between the foot of Karuma Falls 
and the Albert lake ; — this, as already described, I proved 
to be 1,275 feet 



428 CHANGES IN THE NILE. [Chap. XVII. 

It would be impossible to describe the calm enjoyment 
of the scene from this elevated pass, from which we con- 
firmed the results of our own labours and of Speke's well- 
reflected suggestions. We were now on the track by 
which he and Gant had returned ; but I believe they had 
rounded the foot of the hill that we had ascended; — the 
two routes led to the same point, as our course brought us 
at right angles with the Nile that flowed beneath us. 
Descending the pass through a thorny jungle, we arrived 
at the river, and turning suddenly to the north, we fol- 
lowed its course for about a mile, and then bivouacked for 
the evening. The Nile having entered the valley between 
(rebel Kookoo and the western range, was no longer the 
calm river that we had seen to the south : numerous rock)' 
islands blocked its course, and mud-banks covered with 
papyrus rush so obstructed the stream that the river 
widened to about a mile, — this width was composed of 
numerous channels, varying in breadth between the ob- 
structing rock and island. Upon one of the rush-covered 
islands a herd of elephants was discovered, almost con- 
cealed by the height of the vegetation. As they ap- 
proached the edge of the water and became exposed, I 
tried about twenty shots at them with the Fletcher rifle, 
sighted, to 600 yards, but in no instance could I either 
touch or disturb them by the bullets ; — this will afford 
some idea of the width of the river, the island appearing 
to be in the middle of the stream. 

A short distance below this spot, the Nile rapidly con- 
tracted, and at length became a roaring torrent, passing 
through a narrow gorge between perpendicular cliffs, with 
a tremendous current. In some places the great river was 
pent up between rocks, which confined it to a width of 
about 120 yards, — through such channels the rush of water 
was terrific, but to a casual observer approaching from the 
north, the volume of the Mle would have been underrated, 
unless calculated by the velocity of the stream. 

From this point we followed the bank of the Nile over 
a difficult route, down steep ravines and up precipitous 
crags, by a winding path along the foot of the range of 



Chap. XVII.] THE ASUA RIVER, 429 

syenite hills that hemmed in the river on the west bank. 
Several considerable waterfalls added to the grandeur of 
the pass, through which for many miles the angry Nile 
chafed and roared like a lion in its confined den. 

At length we arrived at a steep descent, and dismount- 
ing from our oxen after a walk of about a quarter of a 
mile over rough stones, we reached the Asua river, about 
a quarter of a mile above its junction with the Nile. The 
bed was rocky ; but although the Atabbi had subscribed 
its waters above the point where we now crossed, there 
was merely a trifling stream occupying about a quarter of 
the river's bed, with a current of about two and a half 
miles an hour. Crossing this on foot, the water in the 
deepest part reached to the middle of my thighs. The 
Asua river, as already described at the time that I crossed 
it on the route from Farajoke to Shooa, is a mountain 
torrent formidable during the rains ; quickly flooding and 
quickly emptying from its rapid inclination, it is exhausted 
during the dry season. 

The crossing of this river was a signal for extra precau- 
tion in the arrangement of our march ; we had entered the 
territory of the ever hostile Bari tribe ; we had been 
already warned that we could not pass to Gondokoro 
without being attacked. 

We slept on the road, about seven miles to the north 
of the Asua. On the following morning we started. The 
route . led over a fine country parallel with the Nile, that 
still continued in a rock-bound channel on the west of the; 
march. Throughout, the route from the Un-y-Ame junc-j 
tion, the soil had been wretchedly poor, — a mass of rock' 
and decomposed granite forming a sand that quickly 
parched during the dry season. The level of the country 
being about 200 feet above the Nile, deep gullies cut the 
route at right angles, forming the natural drains to the 
river. 

In these ravines grew dense thickets of bamboos. 
Having no native guide, but trusting solely to the traders' 
people, who had travelled frequently by this route, we lost 
the path, and shortly became entangled amongst the 



430 ATTACKED IN THE PASS. [Chap. XVII. 

numerous ravines. At length we passed a village, around 
which were assembled a number of natives. Having re- 
gained the route, we observed the natives appearing in 
various directions, and as quickly disappearing only to 
gather in our front in increased numbers. Their move- 
ments exciting suspicion, in a country where every man 
was an enemy, our party closed together ; — we threw out 
an advance guard, — ten men on either flank, — the porters, 
ammunition, and effects in the centre ; while about ten 
men brought up the rear. Before us lay two low rocky 
hills covered with trees, high grass, and brushwood, in 
which I distinctly observed the bright red forms of natives 
painted according to the custom of the Bari tribe. 

We were evidently in for a fight. The path lay in a 
gorge between the low rocky hills in advance. My wife 
dismounted from her ox, and walked at the head of our 
party with me, Saat following behind with the gun that he 
usually carried, while the men drove several riding-oxen 
in the centre. Hardly had we entered the pass, when — 
whizz went an arrow over our heads. This was the signal 
for a repeated discharge. The natives ran among the 
rocks with the agility of monkeys, and showed a consider- 
able amount of daring in standing within about eighty 
yards upon the ridge, and taking steady shots at us with 
their poisoned arrows. The flanking parties now opened 
fire, and what with the bad shooting of both the escort 
and the native archers, no one was wounded on either side 
for the first ten minutes. The rattle of musketry, and the 
wild appearance of the naked vermilion-coloured savages, 
as they leapt along the craggy ridge, twanging their bows 
at us with evil but ineffectual intent, was a charming 
picture of African life and manners. Fortunately the 
branches of numerous trees and intervening clumps of 
bamboo frustrated the good intentions of the arrows, as 
they glanced from their aim ; and although some fell 
among our party, we were as yet unscathed. One of the 
enemy, who was most probably a chief, distinguished him- 
self in particular, by advancing to within about fifty yards, 
and standing on a rock, he deliberately shot five or six 



Chap. XVII.] NIGHT IN A HOSTILE COUNTRY. 431 

arrows, all of which missed their mark ; the men dodged 
them as they arrived in their uncertain flight : the speed 
of the arrows was so inferior, owing to the stiffness of the 
bows, that nothing was easier than to evade them. Any 
halt was unnecessary. We continued our march through 
the gorge, the men keeping up an unremitting fire until 
we entered upon a tract of high grass and forest ; this 
being perfectly dry, it would have been easy to set it on 
fire, as the enemy were to leeward; but although the 
rustling in the grass betokened the presence of a great 
number of men, they were invisible. In a few minutes 
we emerged in a clearing, where corn had been planted ; 
this was a favourable position for a decisive attack upon 
the natives, who now closed up. Throwing out skirmishers, 
with orders that they were to cover themselves behind the 
trunks of trees, the Baris were driven back. One was now 
shot through the body, and fell ; but recovering, he ran 
with his comrades, and fell dead after a few yards. 

What casualties had happened during the passage of the 
gorge I cannot say, but the enemy were now utterly dis- 
comfited. I had not fired a shot, as the whole affair was 
perfect child's play, and any one wdio could shoot would 
nave settled the fortune of the day by half a dozen shots ; 
but both the traders' people and my men were " shooters, 
but not hitters." We now bivouacked on the field for 
the night. 

During the march on the following day, the natives 
watched us at a distance, following in great numbers 
parallel with our route, but fearing to attack. The country 
was perfectly open, being a succession of fine downs of low 
grass, with few trees, where any attack against our guns 
would have been madness. 

In the evening we arrived at two small deserted 
villages ; these, like most in the Bari country, w r ere 
circular, and surrounded by a live and impenetrable fence 
of euphorbia, having only one entrance. The traders' 
people camped in one, while I took up my quarters in the 
other. The sun had sunk, and the night being pitch dark, 
we had a glorious fire, around which we placed our 



432 POISONED ARROWS SHOT INTO CAMP. [Chap. XVII. 

angareps opposite the narrow entrance of the camp, about 
ten yards distant. I stationed Hicham as sentry outside 
the gateway, as he was the most dependable of my men, 
and I thought it extremely probable that we might be 
attacked during the night : three other sentries I placed on 
guard at various stations. Dinner being concluded, Mrs. 
Baker lay down on her angarep for the night. I drew the 
balls from a double No. 10 smooth bore, and loaded with 
cartridge containing each twenty large-mould shot (about 
a hundred to the pound) ; putting this under my pillow I 
went to sleep. Hardly had I begun to rest, when my men 
woke me, saying that the camp was surrounded by natives. 
Upon inquiry I found this to be correct ; it was so dark 
that they could not be seen without stooping to the 
ground and looking along the surface. I ordered the 
sentries not to fire unless hostilities should commence on 
the side of the natives, and in no case to draw trigger 
without a challenge. 

Eeturning to the angarep I lay down, and not wishing 
to sleep, I smoked my long Unyoro pipe. In about ten 
minutes — bang ! went a shot, quickly followed by another 
from the sentry at the entrance of the camp. Quietly 
rising from my bed, I found Eicharn reloading at his 
post. " What is it, Eicharn ? " I asked. " They are 
shooting arrows into the camp, aiming at the fire, in 
hopes of hitting you who are sleeping there," said Eicharn. 
" I watched one fellow," he continued, " as I heard the 
twang of his bow four times. At each shot I heard an 
arrow strike the ground between me and you, therefore 
I fired at him, and I think he is down. Do you see that 
black object lying on the ground?" I saw something 
a little blacker than the surrounding darkness, but it 
could not be distinguished. Leaving Eicharn with orders 
not to move from his post, but to keep a good look-out 
until relieved by the next watch, I again went to sleep. 

Before break of day, just as the grey dawn slightly 
improved the darkness, I visited the sentry ; he was at 
his post, and reported that he thought the archer of 
the preceding night was dead, as he had heard a sound 



Chap. XVII.] SIGHT BELIGNAN. 433 

proceeding from the dark object on the ground after I 
had left. In a few minutes it was sufficiently light to 
distinguish the body of a man lying about thirty paces 
from the camp entrance. Upon examination, he proved 
to be a Bari : — his bow was in his hand, and two or three 
arrows were Jying by his side ; — thirteen mould shot 
had struck him dead ; one had cut through the bow. 
We now searched the camp for arrows, and as it became 
light we picked up four in various places, some within 
a few feet of our beds, and all horribly barbed and 
poisoned, that the deceased had shot into the camp 
gateway. 

This was the last attack during our journey. We 
marched well, generally accomplishing fifteen miles of 
latitude, daily from this point, as the road was good and 
well known to our guides. The country was generally 
poor, but beautifully diversified with large trees, the 
tamarind predominating. Passing through the small but 
thickly -populated and friendly little province of Moir, 
in a few days we sighted the well-known mountain 
Belignan, that we had formerly passed on its eastern 
side when we had started on our uncertain path from 
Gondokoro upwards of two years ago. The mountain of 
Belignan was now N.E. from our point of observation. 
We had a splendid view of the Ellyria Mountain, and 
of the distant cone, Gebel el Assul (Honey Mountain) 
between Ellyria and Obbo. All these curiously-shaped 
crags and peaks were well known to us, and we welcomed 
them as old friends after a long absence ; they had been 
our companions in times of doubt and anxiety, when 
success in our undertaking appeared hopeless. At noon on 
the following day, as we were as usual marching parallel 
with the Nile, the river, having made a slight bend to 
the west, swept round, and approached within half a mile 
of our path ; — the small conical mountain, Eegiaf, within 
twelve miles of Gondokoro, was on our left, rising from 
the west bank of the river. We felt almost at home again, 
and marching until sunset, we bivouacked within three 
miles of Gondokoro. That night we were full of specula- 



434 ARRIVE AT GONDOKORO. [Chap. XVII. 

tions. Would a boat be waiting for us with supplies and 
letters ? The morning anxiously looked forward to at 
length arrived. We started ; — the English flag had been 
mounted on a fine straight bamboo with a new lance- 
head specially arranged for the arrival at Gondokoro. My 
men felt proud, as they would march in as conquerors ; 
— according to White Nile ideas such a journey could not 
have been accomplished with so small a party. Long 
before Ibrahim's men were ready to start, our oxen were 
saddled and we were off, longing to hasten into Gondo- 
koro and to find a comfortable vessel with a few luxuries 
and the post from England. Never had the oxen travelled 
so fast as on that morning ; — the flag led the way, and 
the men in excellent spirits followed at double quick 
pace. " I see the masts of the vessels ! " exclaimed the 
boy Saat. " El hambd el Illah ! " (Thank God !) shouted the 
men. " Hurrah ! " said I — " Three cheers for Old England 
and the Sources of the Nile ! Hurrah ! " and my men 
joined me in the wild, and to their ears savage, English 
yell. " Now for a salute ! Fire away all your powder, 
if you like, my lads, and let the people know that we're 
alive ! " This was all that was required to complete the 
happiness of my people, and loading and firing as fast 
as possible, we approached near to Gondokoro. Presently 
we saw the Turkish flag emerge from Gondokoro at about 
a quarter of a mile distant, followed by a number of the 
traders' people, who waited to receive us. On our arrival, 
they immediately approached and fired salutes with ball 
cartridge, as usual advancing close to us and discharging 
their guns into the ground at our feet. One of my 
servants, Mahomet, was riding an ox, and an old friend 
of his in the crowd happening to recognise him, imme- 
diately advanced, and saluted him by firing his gun into 
the earth directly beneath the belly of the ox he was 
riding; — the effect produced made the crowd and our- 
selves explode with laughter. The nervous ox, terrified 
at the sudden discharge between his legs, gave a tre- 
mendous kick, and continued madly kicking and plung- 
ing, until Mahomet was pitched over his head and lay 



Chap. XVII.] NEITHER LETTERS NOR SUPPLIES. 435 

sprawling on the ground; — this scene terminated the 
expedition. 

Dismounting from our tired oxen, our first inquiry 
was concerning boats and letters. What was the reply ? 
Neither boats, letters, supplies, nor any intelligence of 
friends or the Civilized world! We had long since been 
given up as dead by the inhabitants of Khartoum, and 
by all those who understood the difficulties and dangers 
of the country. We were told that some people had 
suggested that we might possibly have gone to Zanzibar, 
but the general opinion was that we had all been killed. 
At this cold and barren reply, I felt almost choked. We 
had looked forward to arriving at Gondokoro as to a home ; 
we had expected that a boat would have been sent on the 
chance of finding us, as I had left money in the hands 
of an agent in Khartoum — but there was literally nothing 
to receive us, and we were helpless to return. We had 
worked for years in misery, such as I have but faintly 
described, to overcome the difficulties of this hitherto 
unconquerable exploration ; we had succeeded — and what 
was the result ? Not even a letter from home to welcome 
us if alive ! As I sat beneath a tree and looked down 
upon the glorious Nile that flowed a few yards beneath 
my feet, I pondered upon the value of my toil. I had 
traced {he river to its great Albert source, and as the 
mighty stream glided before me, the mystery that had 
ever shrouded its origin was dissolved. I no longer 
looked upon its waters with a feeling approaching to awe 
for I knew its home, and had visited its cradle. Had 
I overrated the importance of the discovery ? and had I 
wasted some of the best years of my life to obtain a 
shadow ? I recalled to recollection the practical question 
of Commoro, the chief of Latooka, — "Suppose you get 
to the great lake, what will you do with it? What wilJ 
be the good of it ? If you find that the large river does 
flow from it, what then ? " 



F F 2 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

TEE LATEST NEWS FROM KHARTOUM. 

THE various trading parties were assembled in Gondo- 
koro with a total of about three thousand slaves ; 
but there was consternation depicted upon every 
countenance. Only three boats had arrived from Khar- 
toum — one diahbiah and two noggurs — these belonged to 
Koorshid Aga. The resume* of news from Khartoum was 
as follows : — 

" Orders had been received by the Egyptian authorities 
from the European Governments to suppress the slave- 
trade. Four steamers had arrived at Khartoum from 
Cairo. Two of these vessels had ascended the White Nile, 
and had captured many slavers ; their crews were im- 
prisoned, and had been subjected to the bastinado and 
torture ;- — the captured slaves had been appropriated by 
the Egyptian authorities. 

" It would be impossible to deliver slaves to the Soudan 
this season, as an Egyptian regiment had been stationed in 
the Shillook country, and steamers were cruising to inter- 
cept the boats from the interior in their descent to Khar- 
toum ; — thus the army of slaves then at Gondokoro would 
be utterly worthless. 

" The plague was raging at Khartoum, and had killed 
15,000 people ; — many of the boats' crews had died on 
their passage from Khartoum to Gondokoro of this disease, 
which had even broken out in the station where we then 
were : people died daily. 

" The White Nile was dammed up by a freak of nature, 
and the crews of thirty vessels had been occupied five 
weeks in cutting a ditch through the obstruction, wide 
enough to admit the passage of boats." 



Chap. XVIII.] PLAGUE AT GONBOKORO. 437 

Such was the intelligence received by the latest arrival 
from Khartoum. No boats having been sent for me, I 
engaged the diahbiah that had arrived for Koorshid's 
ivory; — this would return empty, as no ivory could be 
delivered at Gondokoro. The prospect was pleasant, as 
many men had died of the plague on board our vessel 
during the voyage from Khartoum; thus we should be 
subject to a visitation of this fearful complaint as a wind- 
up to the difficulties we had passed through during our 
long exile in Central Africa. I ordered the vessel to be 
thoroughly scrubbed with boiling water and sand, after 
which it was fumigated with several pounds of tobacco, 
burnt within the cabin. 

Three days were employed in ferrying the slaves across 
the river in the two noggurs, or barges, as they must be 
returned to their respective stations. I rejoiced at the 
total discomfiture of the traders, and, observing a cloud of 
smoke far distant to the north, I spread the alarm that a 
steamer was approaching from Khartoum ! Such was the 
consternation of the traders' parties at the bare idea of 
such an occurrence that they prepared for immediate flight 
into the interior, as they expected to be captured by 
Government troops sent from Khartoum to suppress the 
slave-trade. Profiting by this nervous state of affairs, I 
induced them to allow the boat to start immediately, and 
we concluded all our arrangements, contracting for the 
diahbiah at 4,000 piastres (£40). The plague having 
broken out at Gondokoro, the victims among the natives 
were dragged to the edge of the cliff and thrown into the 
river ;— it is impossible to describe the horrible effluvium 
produced by the crowds of slaves that had been confined 
upon the limited area of the station. At length the happy 
moment arrived that we were to quit the miserable 
spot. The boat was ready to start — we were all on board, 
and Ibrahim and his people came to say good-bye. It is 
only justice to Ibrahim to say, that, although he had been 
my great enemy when at Gondokoro in 1863, he had 
always behaved well since peace was established at Ellyria ; 
and, although by nature and profession a slave-hunter, like 



438 DEPARTURE FROM GONDOKORO. [Chap. XVIII. 

others of the White Nile, he had frequently yielded to my 
interference to save the lives of natives who would other- 
wise have been massacred without pity. 

I had gained an extraordinary influence over all these 
ruffianly people. Everything that I had promised them 
had been more than performed ; all that I had foretold had 
been curiously realized. They now acknowledged how 
often I had assured them that the slave-trade would be 
suppressed by the interference of European powers, and 
the present ruin of their trade was the result; they all 
believed that I was the cause, by having written from 
Gondokoro to the Consul-general of Egypt in 1863, when 
the traders had threatened to drive me back. Far from 
retaliating upon me, they were completely cowed. The 
report had been spread throughout Gondokoro by Ibrahim 
and his people that their wonderful success in ivory hunt- 
ing was chiefly due to me ; that their sick had been cured; 
that good luck had attended their party ; that disaster had 
befallen all who had been against me; and that no one 
had suffered wrong at our hands. With the resignation of 
Mahommedans they yielded to their destiny, apparently 
without any ill-feeling against us. Crowds lined the cliff 
and the high ground by the old ruins of the mission-station 
to see us depart. We pushed off from shore into the 
powerful current ; the English flag that had accompanied 
us all through our wanderings now fluttered proudly from 
the mast-head unsullied by defeat, and amidst the rattle of 
musketry we glided rapidly down the river, and soon lost 
sight of Gondokoro. 

What were our feelings at that moment ? Overflowing 
with gratitude to a Divine Providence that had supported 
us in sickness, and guided us through all dangers. There 
had been moments of hopelessness and despair ; days of 
misery, when the future had appeared dark and fatal ; but 
we had been strengthened in our weakness, and led, when 
apparently lost, by an unseen hand. I felt no triumph, 
but with a feeling of calm contentment and satisfaction 
we floated down the Nile. My great joy was in the 
meeting that I contemplated with Speke in England, as 



Chap. XVIII.] THE NILE CLEARED OF MYSTERY. 439 

1 had so thoroughly completed the task we had agreed 
upon. 

Silently and easily we floated down the river ; the oars 
keeping us in mid-stream. The endless marshes no longer 
looked so mournful as we glided rapidly past, and de- 
scended the current against which we had so arduously 
laboured on our ascent to Gondokoro. As we thus pro- 
ceeded on our voyage through the monotonous marshes 
and vast herds of hippopotami that at this season thronged 
the river, I had ample leisure to write my letters for 
England, to be posted on arrival at Khartoum, and to look 
back upon the results of the last few years. 

The Nile, cleared of its mystery, resolves itself into 
comparative simplicity. The actual basin of the Nile is 
included between about the 22° and 39° East longitude, 
and from 3° South to 18° North latitude. The drainage of 
that vast area is monopolized by the Egyptian river. The 
Victoria and Albert lakes, the two great equatorial reser- 
voirs, are the recipients of all affluents south of the 
Equator; the Albert lake being the grand reservoir in 
which are concentrated the entire waters from the south, 
in addition to tributaries from the Blue Mountains from 
the north of the Equator. The Albert N'yanza is the 
great basin of the Nile : the distinction between that and 
the Victoria N'yanza is, that the Victoria is a reservoir 
receiving the eastern affluents, and it becomes a starting 
point or the most elevated source at the point where the 
river issues from it at the Kipon Falls : the Albert is a reser- 
voir not only receiving the western and southern affluents 
direct from the Blue Mountains, but it also receives the 
supply from the Victoria and from the entire equatorial 
Nile basin. The Nile as it issues from the Albert N'yanza 
is the entire Nile ; prior to its birth from the Albert lake it 
is not the entire Nile. A glance at the map will at onue 
exemplify the relative value of the two great lakes. The 
Victoria gathers all the waters on the eastern side and 
sheds them into the northern extremity of the Albert : 
while the latter, from its character and position, is the 
direct channel of the Nile that receives all waters that 



440 TEE VICTORIA SOURCE. [Chap. XVIII 

belong to the equatorial Nile basin. Thus the Victoria is 
the first source ; but from the Albert the river issues at 
once as the great White Nile. 

It is not my intention to claim a higher value for my 
discovery than is justly due, neither would I diminish in 
any way the lustre of the achievements of Speke and 
Grant ; it has ever been my object to confirm and support 
their discoveries, and to add my voice to the chorus of 
praise that they have so justly merited. A great geo- 
graphical fact has through our joint labours been most 
thoroughly established by the discovery of the sources of 
the Nile. I lay down upon the map exactly what I saw, 
and what I gathered from information afforded by the 
natives most carefully examined. 

My exploration confirms all that was asserted by Speke 
and Grant : they traced the country from Zanzibar to the 
northern watershed of Africa, commencing at about 3° 
South latitude, at the southern extremity of the Victoria 
N'yanza. They subsequently determined the river at the 
Eipon Falls flowing from that lake to be the highest source 
of the Nile. They had a perfect right to arrive at this 
conclusion from the data then afforded. They traced the 
river for a considerable distance to Karuma Falls, in lat. 
2° 15» N. ; and they subsequently met the Nile in lat. 
3° 32' N. They had heard that it flowed into the Luta 
N'zige, and that it issued from it ; thus they were correct 
in all their investigations, which my discoveries have con- 
firmed. Their general description of the country was per- 
fect, but not having visited the lake heard of as the 
Luta N'zige, they could not possibly have been aware of 
the vast importance of that great reservoir in the Nile 
system. The task of exploring that extraordinary feature 
having been accomplished, the geographical question of the 
sources of the Nile is explained. Ptolemy had described 
the Nile sources as emanating from two great lakes that 
received the snows of the mountains of Ethiopia. There 
are many ancient maps existing upon which these lakes 
are marked as positive : although there is a wide error in 
the latitude, the fact remains, that two great lakes were 



Chap. XVIII.] AFFLUENTS OF THE WHITE NILE. 441 

reported to exist in Equatorial Africa fed by the torrents 
from lofty mountains, and that from these reservoirs two 
streams issued, the conjunction of which formed the Nile. 
The general principle was correct, although the detail was 
wrong. There can he little doubt that trade had been 
carried on between the Arabs from the Eed Sea and the 
coast opposite Zanzibar in ancient times, and that the 
people engaged in such enterprise had penetrated so far 
into the interior as to have obtained a knowledge of the 
existence of the two reservoirs ; thus may the geographical 
information originally have been brought into Egypt. 

The rainfall to within 3° north of the Equator extends 
over ten months, commencing in February and terminating 
in the end of November. The heaviest rains fall from April 
till the end of August ; during the latter two months of 
this season the rivers are at their maximum : at other 
times the climate is about as uncertain as that of England ; 
but the rain is of the heavy character usual in the tropics. 
Thus the rivers are constant throughout the year, and the 
Albert lake continues at a high level, affording a steady 
volume of water to the Nile. On the map given to me by 
Captain Speke he has marked the Victoria Nile below the 
Eipon Palls as the Somerset river. As I have made a point 
of adhering to all native names as given by him upon that 
map, I also adhere to the name Somerset river for that 
portion of the Nile between the Victoria and the Albert 
Lakes ; this must be understood as Speke's Victoria Nile 
source ; bearing the name of Somerset, no confusion will 
arise in speaking of the Nile, which would otherwise be 
ambiguous, as the same name would app]y to two distinct 
rivers — the one emanating from the Victoria and flowing 
into the Albert ; the other the entire river Nile as it leaves 
the Albert lake. The White Nile, fed as described by the 
great reservoirs supplied by the rains of equatorial dis- 
tricts, receives the following tributaries : — 

Erom the East bank — The Asua, important from 15th 
April till 15th November : dry after that date. 

From West bank — The Ye, third class ; full from 15th 
April till 15th November. 



442 ACTION OF THE ABYSSINIAN EI FEES. [Chap. XVIII. 

From West bank — Another small river, third class 3 full 
from 15 th April till 15 th November. 

Ditto — The Bahr el Gazal; little or no water supplied 
by this river. 

From East bank — The Sobat, first class ; full from June 
to December. 

The Bahr Giraffe I omit, as it is admitted by the natives 
to be a branch of the White Nile that leaves the main 
river at the Aliab country and re-unites in lat. 9° 25' be- 
tween the Bahr el Gazal and the Sobat. The latter river 
(Sobat) is the most powerful affluent of the White Nile, 
and is probably fed by many tributaries from the Galla 
country about Kaffa, in addition to receiving the rivers 
from the Bari and Latooka countries. I consider that the 
Sobat must be supplied by considerable streams from 
totally distinct countries east and south, having a rainfall 
at different seasons, as it is bank-full at the end of Decem- 
ber, when the southern rivers (the Asua, &c.) are extremely 
low. North from the Sobat, the White Nile has no other 
tributaries until it is joined by the Blue Nile at Khartoum, 
and by its last affluent the Atbara in lat. 17° 37'. These 
two great mountain streams flooding suddenly in the end 
of June, fed by the rains of Abyssinia, raise the volume 
of thp Nile to an extent that causes the inundations of 
Lower Egypt. 

The basin of the Nile being thus understood, let us 
reflect upon the natural resources of the vast surface of 
fertile soil that is comprised in that portion of Central 
Africa. It is difficult to believe that so magnificent a 
soil and so enormous an extent of country is destined 
to remain for ever in savagedom, and yet it is hard to 
argue on the possibility of improvement in a portion of 
the world inhabited by savages whose happiness consists 
in idleness or warfare. The advantages are few, the 
drawbacks many. The immense distance from the sea- 
coast would render impossible the transport of any mer- 
chandise unless of extreme value, as the expenses would 
be insupportable. The natural productions are nil, ex- 
cepting ivory. The soil being fertile and the climate 



Chap. XVIII.] SLAVERY THE CURSE OF AFRICA. 443 

favourable to cultivation, all tropical produce would 
thrive ; — cotton, coffee, and the sugar-cane are indigenous ; 
but although both climate and soil are favourable, the 
conditions necessary to successful enterprise are wanting; 
— the population is scanty, and the material of the very 
worst ; the people vicious and idle. The climate, although 
favourable for agriculture, is adverse to the European con- 
stitution ; thus colonization would be out of the question. 
What can be done with so hopeless a prospect ? Where 
the climate is fatal to Europeans, from whence shall 
civilization be imported ? The heart of Africa is so com- 
pletely secluded from the world, and the means of com- 
munication are so difficult, that although fertile, its 
geographical position debars that vast extent of country 
from improvement : thus shut out from civilization it has 
become an area for unbridled atrocities, as exemplified in 
the acts of the ivory traders. 

Difficult and almost impossible is the task before the 
Missionary. The Austrian Mission has failed, and the 
stations have been forsaken ; — their pious labour was hope- 
less, and the devoted priests died upon their barren field. 
What curse lies so heavily upon Africa and bows her 
down beneath all other nations ? It is the infernal traffic 
in slaves, — a trade so hideous, that the heart of every slave 
and owner becomes deformed, and shrinks like a withered 
limb incapable of action. The natural love of offspring, 
shared with the human race by the most savage beast, 
ceases to warm the heart of the wretched slave. Why 
should the mother love her child, if it is born to become 
the 'property of her owner ? — to be sold as soon as it can 
exist without the mother's care. Why should the girl be 
modest, when she knows that she is the actual property, 
the slave, of .every purchaser? Slavery murders the 
sacred feeling of love, that blessing that cheers the lot of 
the poorest man, that spell that binds him to his wife, and 
child, and home. Love cannot exist with slavery — the 
mind becomes brutalized to an extent that freezes all those 
tender feelings that Nature has implanted in the human 
heart to separate it from the beast; and the mind, de- 



444 IMPOTENCE OF EUROPEAN CONSULS. [Chap. XVIIL 

spoiled of all noble instincts, descends to hopeless brutality. 
Thus is Africa accursed : nor can she be raised to any 
scale approaching to civilization until the slave-trade shall 
be totally suppressed. The first step necessary to the 
improvement of the savage tribes of the White Nile is 
the annihilation of the slave-trade. Until this be effected, 
no legitimate commerce can be established ; neither is 
there an opening for missionary enterprise ; — the country 
is sealed and closed against all improvement. 

Nothing would be easier than to suppress this infamous 
traffic, were the European Powers in earnest. Egypt is 
in favour of slavery. I have never seen a Government 
official who did not in argument uphold slavery as an 
institution absolutely necessary to Egypt, — thus any 
demonstration made against the slave-trade by the Govern- 
ment of that country will be simply a pro forma move- 
ment to blind the European Powers. Their eyes thus 
closed, and the question shelved, the trade will resume 
its channel. Were the reports of European consuls sup- 
ported by their respective Governments, and were the 
consuls themselves empowered to seize vessels laden with 
slaves, and to liberate gangs of slaves when upon a land 
journey, that abominable traffic could not exist. The 
hands of the European consuls are tied, and jealousies 
interwoven with the Turkish question act as a bar to 
united action on the part of Europe ; — no Power cares to be 
the first to disturb the muddy pool. The Austrian consul 
at Khartoum, Herr batterer, told me, in 1862, that he 
had vainly reported the atrocities of the slave-trade to 
his Government ;-— no reply had been received to his 
report. Every European Government knows that the 
slave-trade is carried on to an immense extent in Upper 
Egypt, and that the Eed Sea is the great Slave Lake 
by which these unfortunate creatures are transported to 
Arabia and to Suez, — but the jealousies concerning Egypt 
muzzle each European Power. Should one move, the 
other would interfere to counteract undue influence in 
Egypt. Thus is immunity insured to the villanous actors 
in the trade. Who can prosecute a slave trader of the 



CH.XVIIL] CENTRAL AFRICA OPENED TO NAVIGATION. 445 

White Nile ? What legal evidence can he produced from 
Central Africa to secure a conviction in an English Court 
of Law? The English consul (Mr. Petherick) arrested a 
Maltese, the nephew of Debono ; — the charge could not be 
legally supported. Thus are the consuls fettered, and 
their acts nullified by the impossibility of producing 
reliable evidence ; — the facts are patent ; but who can 
prove them legally ? 

Stop the White Nile trade; prohibit the departure of 
any vessels from Khartoum for the south, and let the 
Egyptian Government grant a concession to a company 
for the White Nile, subject to certain conditions, and to 
a special supervision. (There are already four steamers at 
Khartoum.) Establish a military post of 200 men at 
Gondokoro ; an equal number below the Shillook tribe in 
13° latitude, and, with two steamers cruising on the river, 
not a slave could descend the White Nile. 

Should the slave-trade be suppressed, there will be a 
good opening for the ivory trade ; the conflicting trading 
parties being withdrawn, and the interest of the trade 
exhibited by a single company, the natives would no 
longer be able to barter ivory for cattle ; thus they would 
be forced to accept other goods in exchange. The newly- 
discovered Albert lake opens the centre of Africa to 
navigation. Steamers ascend from Khartoum to Gondo- 
koro in latitude 4° 55'. Seven days' march south from 
that station the navigable portion of the Nile is reached, 
where vessels can ascend direct to the Albert lake, — 
thus an enormous extent of country is opened to navi- 
gation, and Manchester goods and various other articles 
would find a ready market in exchange for ivory, at a 
prodigious profit, as in those newly-discovered regions 
ivory has a merely nominal value. Beyond this com- 
mencement of honest trade, I cannot offer a suggestion, 
as no produce of the country except ivory could afford 
the expense of transport to Europe. If Africa is to be 
civilized, it must be effected by commerce, which, once 
established, will open the way for missionary labour ; but 
all ideas of commerce, improvement, and the advance- 



446 TRIBES OF CENTRAL AFRICA. [Chap. XVIII. 

ment of the African race that philanthropy conld suggest 
must be discarded until the traffic in slaves shall have 
ceased to exist. 

Should the slave-trade be suppressed, a field would be 
opened, the extent of which I will not attempt to suggest, 
as the future would depend upon the good government of 
countries now devoted to savage anarchy and confusion. 

Any Government that would insure , security would be 
the greatest blessing, as the perpetual hostilities among 
the various tribes prevent an extension of cultivation. 
The sower knows not who will reap, thus he limits his 
crop to his bare necessities. 

The ethnology of Central Africa is completely beyond 
my depth. The natives not only are ignorant of writing, 
but they are without traditions — their thoughts are as 
entirely engrossed by their daily wants as those of 
animals ; thus there is no clue to the distant past ; 
history has no existence. This is much to be deplored, 
as peculiarities are specific in the type of several tribes 
both in physical appearance and in language. The 
Dinka; Bari; Latooka; Madi; and Unyoro or Kitwara, 
are distinct languages on the east of the Nile, comprising 
an extent of country from about 12° north to the Equator. 
The JVEakkarika have also a distinct language, and I was 
informed in Kamrasi's country, that the Malegga, on the 
west of the Albert lake, speak a different tongue to that 
of Kitwara (or Unyoro) — this may possibly be the same 
as the Makkarika, of which I have had no experience by 
comparison. Accepting the fact of five distinct languages 
from the Equator to 12° N. lat., it would appear by 
analogy that Central Africa is divided into numerous 
countries and tribes, distinct from each other in lan- 
guage and physical conformation, whose origin is perfectly 
obscure. Whether the man of Central Africa be pre- 
Adamite is impossible to determine ; but the idea is 
suggested by the following data. The historical origin oi 
man, or Adam, commences with a knowledge of God. 
Throughout the history of the world from the creation of 
Adam, God is connected with mankind in every creed, 



Chap. XVIII.] GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. 447 

whether worshipped as the universal sublime Spirit of 
omnipotence, or shaped by the forms of idolatry into repre- 
sentations of a deity. From the creation of Adam, man- 
kind has acknowledged its inferiority, and must bow down 
and worship either the true God or a graven image ; or 
something that is in heaven or in earth. The world, as 
we accept that term, was always actuated by a natural 
religious instinct. Cut off from that world, lost in the 
mysterious distance that shrouded the origin of the 
Egyptian Nile, were races unknown, that had never 
reckoned in the great sum of history — races that we have 
brought to light, whose existence had been hidden from 
mankind, and that now appear before us like the fossil 
bones of antediluvian animals. Are they vestiges of what 
existed in a pre- Adamite creation ? 

The geological formation of Central Africa is primitive ; 
showing an altitude above the sea-level averaging nearly 
4,000 feet. This elevated portion of the globe, built up in 
great part of granitic sandstone rocks, has never been 
submerged, nor does it appear to have undergone any 
changes, either volcanic or by the action of water. Time, 
working through countless ages with the slow but certain 
instrument of atmospheric influence, has rounded the sur- 
face and split into fragments the granite rocks, leaving a 
sandy base of disintegrated portions, while in other cases 
the mountains show as hard and undecayed a surface as 
though fresh from Nature's foundry. Central Africa never 
having been submerged, the animals and races must 
be as old, and may be older, than any upon the earth. 
No geological change having occurred in ages long anterior 
to man, as shown by Sir E. I. Murchison theoretically so 
far back as the year 1852, when Central Africa was utterly 
unknown, it is natural to suppose that the races that exist 
upon that surface should be unaltered from their origin. 
That origin may date from a period so distant, that it pre- 
ceded the Adamite creation. Historic man believes in a 
Divinity ; the tribes of Central Africa know no God. Are 
they of our Adamite race ? The equatorial portion of 
Africa at the Nile sources has an average altitude above 



148 HYPOTHESIS OF EQUATORIAL LAKES. [Chap. XVIII. 

the sea-level of about 4,000 feet; this elevated plateau 
forms the base of a range of mountains, that I imagine 
extends, like the vertebrae of an animal, from east to west, 
shedding a drainage to the north and south. Should this 
hypothesis be correct, the southern watershed would fill 
the Tanganika lake : while farther to the west another lake, 
supplied by the southern drainage, may form the head of 
the river Congo. On the north a similar system may drain 
into the Niger and Lake Tchad : thus the Victoria and the 
Albert lakes, being the two great reservoirs or sources of 
the Nile,- may be the first of a system of African equatorial 
lakes fed by the northern and southern drainage of the 
mountain range, and supplying all the principal rivers of 
Africa from the great equatorial rainfall. The fact of the 
centre of Africa at the Nile sources being about 4,000 
feet above the ocean, independently of high mountains 
rising from that level, suggests that the drainage of the 
Equator from the central and elevated portion must find 
its way to the lower level and reach the sea. Wherever 
high mountain ranges exist, there must also be depres- 
sions ; those situated in an equatorial rainfall must receive 
the drainage from the high lands and become lakes, the 
overflow of which must form the sources of rivers, pre- 
cisely as exemplified in the sources of the Nile from the 
Vict6ria and the Albert lakes, 

The fact that Sir Eoderick Murchison, as a geologist, 
laid down a theory of the existence of a chain of lakes 
upon an elevated plateau in Central Africa, which theory 
has been now in great measure confirmed by actual inspec- 
tion, induces me to quote an extract from his address at 
the anniversary meeting of the Eoyal Geographical Society, 
23d May, 1864. In that address, he expressed opinions 
upon the geological structure and the races of Central 
Africa, which preceded those that I formed when at the 
Albert lake. It is with intense interest that I have read 
the following extract since my return to England : — 

" In former addresses, I suggested that the interior mass 
and central portions of Africa constituting a great plateau 
occupied by lakes and marshes, from which the waters 



Chap. XVIII] SIR RODERICK MURCHISONS ADDRESS. 449 

escaped by cracks or depressions in the subtending older 
rocks, had been in that condition during an enormously 
long period. I have recently been enabled, through the 
apposite discovery of Dr. Kirk, the companion of Living- 
stone, not only to fortify my conjecture of 1852, but greatly 
to extend the inferences concerning the long period of time 
during which the central parts of Africa have remained in 
their present condition, save their degradation by ordinary 
atmospheric agencies. My view, as given to this Society 
in 1852, was mainly founded on the original and admirable 
geological researches of Mr. Bain in the colony of the 
Cape of Good Hope. It was, that, inasmuch as in the 
secondary or mesozoic age of geologists, the northern in- 
terior of that country was occupied by great lakes and 
marshes, as proved by the fossil reptile discovered by 
Bain, and named Dicynodon by Owen, such it has re- 
mained for countless ages, even up to the present day. 
The succeeding journeys into the interior, of Livingstone, 
Thornton and Kirk, Burton and Speke, and Speke and 
Grant, have all tended to strengthen me in the belief that 
Southern Africa has not undergone any of those great sub- 
marine depressions which have so largely affected Europe, 
Asia, and America, during the secondary, tertiary, and 
quasi modern periods. 

" The discovery of Dr. Kirk has confirmed my conclusion. 
On the banks of an affluent of the Zambesi, that gentleman 
collected certain bones, apparently carried down in watery 
drifts from inland positions, which remains have been so 
fossilized as to have all the appearance of antiquity which 
fossils of a tertiary or older age usually present. One of 
these is a portion of the vertebral column and sacrum of a 
buffalo, undistinguishable from that of the Cape buffalo ; 
another is a fragment of a crocodile, and another of a water- 
tortoise, both undistinguishable from the forms of those 
animals now living. Together with these, Dr. Kirk found 
numerous bones of antelopes and other animals, which, 
though in a fossil condition, all belonged, as he assured 
me, to species now living in South Africa. 

" On the other hand, none of our explorers, including 1 

G G 



450 SIB RODERICK MURCHISON'S ADDRESS. [Chap. XVIII. 

Mr. Bain, who has diligently worked as a geologist, have 
detected in the interior any limestones containing marine 
fossil remains, which would have proved that South 
Africa had, like other regions, been depressed into oceanic 
conditions, and re-elevated. On the contrary, in addition 
to old granitic and other igneous rocks, all explorers 
find only either innumerable undulations of sandstones, 
schistose, and quartzose rocks, or such tufaceous and 
ferruginous deposits as would naturally occur in countries 
long occupied by lakes and exuberant jungles, separated 
from each other by sandy hills, scarcely any other cal- 
careous rocks being found except tufas formed by the 
deposition of landsprings. It is true that there are marine 
tertiary formations on the coasts (around the Cape Colony, 
near the mouth of the Zambesi opposite Mozambique, 
and again on the coasts of Mombas opposite Zanzibar), 
and that these have been raised up into low-coast ranges, 
followed by rocks of igneous origin. But in penetrating 
into the true interior, the traveller takes a final leave of 
all such formations; and in advancing to the heart of 
the continent, he traverses a vast region which, to all 
appearance, has ever been under terrestrial and lacustrine 
conditions only. Judging, indeed, from all the evidences 
as yet collected, the interior of South Africa has remained 
in that condition since the period of the secondary rocks 
of geologists ! Yet, whilst none of our countrymen found 
any evidences of old marine remains, Captain Speke brought 
from one of the ridges which lay between the coast and 
the lake Victoria N'yanza a fossil shell, which, though 
larger in size, is undistinguishable from the Achatina 
pcrdix now flourishing in South Africa. Again, whilst 
Bain found fossil plants in his reptiliferous strata north 
of the Cape, and Livingstone and Thornton discovered 
coal in sandstone, with fossil plants, like those of our old 
coal of Europe and America, — yet both these mesozoic and 
palaeozoic remains are terrestrial, and are not associated 
with marine limestones, indicative of those oscillations of 
the land which are so common in other countries. 

" It is further to be observed, that the surface of this 



Chap. XVIII.] SIB BODEBICK MUBCHISON'S JDDBESS. 45 1 

vast interior is entirely exempt from the coarse superficial 
drift that encumbers so many countries, as- derived from 
lofty mountain-chains from which either glaciers or great 
torrential streams have descended. In this respect, it is 
also equally unlike those plains of Germany, Poland, and 
Northern Bussia, which were sea-bottoms when floating 
icebergs melted and dropped the loads of stone which 
they were transporting from Scandinavia and Lapland. 

" In truth, therefore, the inner portion of Southern 
Africa is, in this respect,, as far as I know, geologically 
unique in the long conservation of ancient terrestrial 
conditions. This inference is further supported by the 
concomitant absence, throughout the larger portion of all 
this vast area, %j&, south of the Equator^ of any of those 
volcanic rocks which are so often associated with oscilla- 
tions of the terra firma* 

" With the exception of the true volcanic hills of the 
Cameroons recently described by Burton, on the west coast, 
a little to the north of the Equator, and which possibly 
may advance southwards towards the Gaboon country, 
nothing is known of the presence of any similar foci of 
sub-aerial eruption all round the coasts of Africa south 
of the Equator. If the elements for the production of 
them had existed, the coast-line is precisely that on 
which we should expect to find such volcanic vents, if 
we judge by the analogy of all volcanic regions where 
the habitual igneous eruptions are not distant from 
the sea, or from great internal masses of water. The 
absence, then, both on the coasts and in the interior, 
of any eruptive rocks which can have been thrown 
up under the atmosphere since the period when the 
tertiary rocks began to be accumulated, is in concurrence 
with all the physical data as yet got together. These 
demonstrate that, although the geologist finds here none 
of those characters of lithological structure and curiously 
diversified organic remains which enable him to fix the 

* " Although Kiliraandjaro is to a great extent igneous and volcanic, 
there is nothing to prove that it has been in activity during the historic 
era." 

GG2 



452 SIR RODERICK MURCHISON'S ADDRESS. [Chap. XVIII. 

epochs of succession in the crust of the earth in other 
quarters of the globe, the interior of South Africa is 
unquestionably a grand type of a region which has pre- 
served its ancient terrestrial conditions during a very 
long period, unaffected by any changes except those 
which are dependent on atmospheric and meteoric 
influences. 

" If, then, the lower animals and plants of this vast 
country have gone on unchanged for a very long period, 
may we infer that its human inhabitants are of like 
antiquity ? If so, the Negro may claim as old a lineage 
as the Caucasian or Mongolian races. In the absence 
of any decisive fact, I forbear, at present, to speculate 
on this point ; but as, amid the fossil specimens procured 
by Livingstone and Kirk, there are fragments of pottery 
made by human hands, we must wait until some zealous 
explorer of Southern Africa shall distinctly bring forward 
proofs that the manufactured articles are of the same age 
as the fossil bones. In other words, we still require from 
Africa the same proofs of the existence of links which 
bind together the sciences of Geology and Archaeology 
which have recently been developed in Europe. Now, 
if the unquestioned works of man should be found to be 
coeval with the remains of fossilized existing animals in 
Southern Africa, the travelled geographer, who has con- 
vinced himself of the ancient condition of its surface, 
must admit, however unwillingly, that although the black 
man is of such very remote antiquity, he has been very 
stationary in civilization and in attaining the arts of life, 
if he be compared with the Caucasian, the Mongolian, 
the Eed Indian of America, or even with the aborigines 
of Polynesia." * 

* " The most remarkable proof of the inferiority of the Negro, when 
compared with the Asiatic, is, that whilst the latter has domesticated the 
elephant for ages, and rendered it highly useful to man, the Negro has 
only slaughtered the animal to obtain food or ivory." 



CHAPTER XIX. 

THE BLACK ANTELOPE. 

WE continued our voyage down the Nile, at times 
scudding along with a fair wind and stream, when 
a straight portion of the river allowed our men respite 
from the oars. This was the termination of the dry- 
season, in this latitude 7° (end of March) ; — thus, although 
the river was nearly level with the banks, the marshes 
were tolerably firm, and in the dryer portions the reeds 
had been burnt off by the natives. In one of these cleared 
places we descried a vast herd of antelopes, numbering 
several thousands. The males were black, and carried 
fine horns, while the females were reddish-brown and 
without horns. Never having shot this species, I landed 
from the boat, which I ordered to wait in a sheltered 
nook, while, accompanied by the boy Saat and Eicharn, 
I took the little Fletcher 24 rifle and commenced 
a stalk. 

The antelopes did not evince their usual shyness, and 
with a tolerable amount of patience I succeeded in getting 
within about 120 paces of two splendid black bucks that 
were separated from the herd ; — a patch of half-burnt reeds 
afforded a good covering point. The left-hand buck was in 
a good position for a shoulder shot, standing with his flank 
exposed, but with his head turned towards me. At the 
crack of the rifle he sprang upon his hind legs, — gave two 
or three convulsive bounds, and felL His companion went 
off at full speed, and. the left-hand barrel unfortunately 
broke his hind leg, as the half-burnt reeds hindered a 
correct aim. Reloading, while my men bled the dead 
buck, I fired a long shot at the dense mass of antelopes 
who were now in full retreat at about 600 yards' distance 
crowded together in thousands. I heard, or fancied I 



454 



ANTELOPE SHOOTING. 



[Chap. XIX. 



heard, the ball strike some object, and as the herd passed 
on, a reddish object remained behind that we could hardly 
distinguish, but on nearer approach I found a doe lying 
dead — she had been by chance struck by the ball through 
the neck at this great distance. The game being at full 
speed in retreat, my sport would have been over had we 
not at that moment heard shouts and yells exactly ahead 
of the vast herd of antelopes. At once they halted, and 
we perceived a number of natives, armed with spears and 
bows, who had intercepted the herd in their retreat, and 
who now turned them by their shouts exactly towards 
us. The herd came on at full speed ; but seeing us, they 
slightly altered their line, and rushed along, thundering 
over the ground almost in single file, thus occupying a 
continuous line of about half a mile in length. Eunning 
towards them at right angles for about a quarter of a 
mile, I at length arrived at a white ant-hill about ten 
feet high; behind this I took my stand within about 
seventy yards of the string of antelopes that were filing 
by at full gallop. I waited for a buck with fine horns. 
Several passed, but I observed better heads in their rear ; 
— they came bounding along. " Crack ! " went the rifle ; 
and a fine buck pitched upon his head. Again the little 
Fletcher spoke, and down went another within ten yards 
of the first. " A spare gun, Eicharn ! " and Osw ell's 
Purdey was slipped into my hand. " Only one barrel is 
loaded," said Eicharn. I saw a splendid buck coming 
along with a doe by his side ; — she protected him from 
the shot as they came on at right angles with the gun ; 
but knowing that the ball would go through her and 
reach him on the other side, I fired at her shoulder, — 
she fell dead' to the shot, but he went off scatheless. I 
now found that Eicharn had loaded the gun with twenty 
mould shot instead of ball-; — these were confined in a 
cartridge, and had killed her on the spot. 

I had thus bagged five antelopes ; and, cutting off the 
heads of the bucks, we left the bodies for the natives, who 
were anxiously watching us from a distance, but afraid 
to approach. The antelope first shot that was nearer to 



Ch. XIX.] ARRIVE AT JUNCTION OF BAER EL GAZAL. 455 

the boat, we dragged on board, with the assistance of ten 
or twelve men. The buck was rather larger than an 
average donkey ; — colour, black, with a white patch across 
the withers ;— a white crown to the head ; white round 
the eyes ; chest black, but belly white ; the horns about 
two feet four inches long, and bending gracefully back- 
wards. 

A few days after this incident we arrived at the junction 
of the Bahr el Gazal, and turning sharp to the east, we 
looked forward to arriving at the extraordinary obstruc- 
tion that since our passage in 1863 had dammed the 
White Nile. 

There was considerable danger in the descent of the 
river upon nearing this peculiar dam, as the stream plunged 
below it by a subterranean channel with a rush like a 
cataract. A large diahbiah laden with ivory had been 
carried beneath the dam on her descent from Gondokoro 
in the previous year, and had never been seen afterwards. 
I ordered the reis to have the anchor in readiness, and two 
powerful hawsers ; should we arrive in the evening, he 
was to secure the vessel to the bank, and not to attempt 
the passage through the canal until the following morning. 

We anchored about half a mile above the dam. 

This part of the Nile is boundless marsh, portions of 
which were at this season terra firma. The river ran 
from west to east; the south bank was actual ground 
covered with mimosas, but to the north and west the 
flat marsh covered with high weeds was interminable 

At daybreak we manned the oars and floated down the 
rapid stream. In a few minutes we heard the rush of 
water, and we saw the dam stretching across the river 
before us. The marsh being firm, our men immediately 
jumped out on the left bank and manned the hawsers — 
one fastened from the stern, the other from the bow ; this 
arrangement prevented the boat from turning broadside 
on to the dam, by which accident the shipwrecked diahbiah 
had been lost. As we approached the dam, I perceived 
the canal or ditch that had been cut by the crews of the 
vessels that had ascended the river ; it was about ten feet 



456 



OBSTRUCTION IN THE WHITE NILE. [Chap. XIX. 






wide, and would barely allow the passage of our diahbiah. 
This canal was already choked with masses of floating 
vegetation and natural rafts of reeds and mud that the 
river carried with it, the accumulation of which had 
originally formed the dam. 

Having secured the vessel "by carrying out an anchor 
astern and burying it on the marsh, while a rope fastened 
from the bow to the high reeds kept her stern to the 
stream, all hands jumped into the canal and commenced 
dragging out the entangled masses of weeds, reeds, ambatch 
wood, grass, and mud that had choked the entrance. Half 
a day was thus passed, at the expiration of which time 
we towed our vessel safely into the ditch, where she lay 
out of danger. It was necessary to discharge all cargo 
from the boat, in order to reduce her draught of water. 
This tedious operation completed, and many bushels 
of corn being piled upon mats spread upon the reeds 
beaten flat, we endeavoured to push her along the canal. 
Although the obstruction was annoying it was a most 
interesting object. 

The river had suddenly disappeared : there was ap- 
parently an end to the White Nile. The dam was about 
three-quarters of a mile wide ; it was perfectly firm, and 
was %lready overgrown with high reeds and grass, thus 
forming a continuation of the surrounding country. Many 
of the traders' people had died of the plague at this spot 
during the delay of some weeks in cutting the canal ; the 
graves of these dead were upon the dam. The bottom of 
the canal that had been cut through the dam was perfectly 
firm, composed of sand, mud, and interwoven decaying 
vegetation. The river arrived with great force at the 
abrupt edge of the obstruction, bringing with it all kinds 
of trash and large floating islands. None of these objects 
hitched against the edge, but the instant they struck 
they dived under and disappeared. It was in this 
manner that the vessel had been lost — having missed the 
narrow entrance to the canal, she had struck the dam 
stem on ; the force of the current immediately turned 
her broadside against the obstruction ; the floating islands 



Chap. XIX.] PASSAGE THROUGH THE DAM. 457 

and masses of vegetation brought down by the river 
were heaped against her, and heeling over on her side she 
was sucked bodily under and carried beneath the dam ; 
her crew had time to save themselves by leaping upon 
the firm barrier that had wrecked their ship. The boat- 
men told me that dead hippopotami had been found 
on the other side, that had been carried under the dam 
and drowned. 

Two days' hard work from morning till night brought 
us through the canal, and we once more found ourselves 
on the open Nile on the other side of the dam. The 
river was in that spot perfectly clean ; not a vestige of 
floating vegetation could be seen upon its waters ; in its 
subterranean passage it had passed through a natural sieve, 
leaving all foreign matter behind to add to the bulk of 
the already stupendous work. 

All before us was clear and plain sailing. For some 
days two or three of our men had been complaining of 
severe headache, giddiness, and violent pains in the spine 
and between the shoulders. I had been anxious when at 
Gondokoro concerning the vessel, as many persons had 
died on board of the plague during . the voyage from 
Khartoum. The men assured me that the most fatal 
symptom was violent bleeding from the nose ; in such 
cases no one had been known to recover. One of the 
boatmen, who had been ailing for some days, suddenly 
went to the side of the vessel and hung his head over 
the river ; his nose was bleeding ! 

Another of my men, Yaseen, was ill; his uncle, my 
vakeel, came to me with a report that " his nose was 
bleeding violently ! " Several other men fell ill : they lay 
helplessly about the deck in low muttering delirium, their 
eyes as yellow as orange-peel. In two or three days the 
vessel was so horribly offensive as to be unbearable ; the 
plague had broken out ! We floated past the river Sobat 
junction ; the wind was fair from the south, thus for- 
tunately we in the stern were to windward of the crew. 
Yaseen died ; he was one who had bled at the nose. We 
stopped to bury him. The funeral hastily arranged, we 



458 



BREAKING OUT OF THE PLAGUE. [Chap. XIX. 






again set sail. Mahommed died ; he had bled at the 
nose. Another burial. Once more we set sail and 
hurried down the Nile. Several men were ill, but the 
dreaded symptom had not appeared, t had given each 
man a strong dose of calomel at the commencement of the 
disease ; I could do nothing more, as my medicines were 
exhausted. All night we could hear the sick, muttering 
and raving in delirium, but from years of association 
with disagreeables we had no fear of the infection. One 
morning the boy Saat came to me with his head bound 
up, and complained of severe pain in the back and limbs, 
with all the usual symptoms of plague : in the afternoon 
T saw him leaning over the ship's side ; his nose was 
bleeding violently ! At night he was delirious. On the 
following morning he was raving, and on the vessel stop- 
ping to collect firewood he threw himself into the river 
to cool the burning fever that consumed him. His eyes 
were suffused with blood, which, blended with a yellow 
as deep as the yolk of egg, gave a horrible appearance to 
his face, that was already so drawn and changed as to be 
hardly recognised. Poor Saat ! the faithful boy that we 
had adopted, and who had formed so bright an exception 
to the dark character of his race, was now a victim to 
this horrible disease. He was a fine strong lad of nearly 
fifteen, and he now lay helplessly on his mat, and cast 
wistful glances at the face of his mistress as she gave 
him a cup of cold water mixed with a few lumps of sugar 
that we had obtained from the traders at Gondokoro. 

We arrived at Fashoder, in the Shillook country, where 
the Egyptian Government had formed a camp of a 
thousand men to take possession of the country. We 
were well received and hospitably entertained by Osman 
Bey, to whom our thanks are due for the first civilized 
reception after years of savagedom. At Fashoder we 
procured lentils, rice, and dates, which were to us great 
luxuries, and would be a blessing to the plague-smitten 
boy, as we could now make some soup. Goats we had 
purchased in the Shir country for molotes (iron hoes) that 
we had received in exchange for corn at Gondokoro from 



Chap. XIX.] DEATH OF SAAT. 459 

Koorskid's agent who was responsible for the supply I had 
left in depot. We left Fashoder, and continued our voyage 
towards Khartoum. 

Saat grew worse and worse : nothing would relieve the 
unfortunate boy from the burning torture of that frightful 
disease. He never slept, but night and day he muttered 
in delirium, breaking the monotony of his malady by 
occasionally howling like a wild animal. Eicharn won my 
heart by his careful nursing of the boy, who had been his 
companion through years of hardship. We arrived at the 
village of Wat Shely, only three days from Khartoum. 
Saat was dying. The night passed, and I expected that 
all would be over before sunrise ; but as morning dawned 
a change had taken place, — -the burning fever had left him, 
and although raised blotches had broken out upon his 
chest and various parts of his body, he appeared much 
better. We now gave him stimulants ; a tea-spoonful of 
araki that we had bought at Fashoder was administered 
every ten minutes on a lump of sugar. This he crunched 
in his mouth, while he gazed at my wife with an ex- 
pression of affection, but he could not speak. I had him 
well washed and dressed in clean clothes, that had been 
kept most carefully during the voyage, to be worn on our 
emtr£e to Khartoum. He was laid down to sleep upon a 
clean mat, and my wife gave him a lump of sugar to 
moisten his mouth and relieve his thickly-furred tongue. 
His pulse was very weak, and his skin cold. " Poor Saat," 
said my wife, "his life hangs upon a thread. We must 
nurse him most carefully; should he have a relapse, 
nothing will save him." An hour passed, and he slept. 
Karka, the fat, good-natured slave woman, quietly went to 
his side : gently taking him by the ankles and knees, she 
stretched his legs into a straight position, and laid his 
arms parallel with his sides. She then covered his face 
with a cloth, one of the few rags that we still possessed. 
"Does he sleep still?" we asked. The tears ran down the 
cheeks of the savage but good-hearted Karka, as she 
sobbed, " He is dead !" 

We stopped the boat. It was a sandy shore ; the banks 



460 



ARRIVAL AT KHARTOUM. [Chap. XIX. 



were high., and a clump of mimosas grew above high 
water-mark. It was there that we dug his grave. My 
men worked silently and sadly, for all loved Saat : he had 
been so good and true, that even their hard hearts had 
learnt to respect his honesty. We laid him in his grave 
on the desert shore, beneath the grove of trees. Again 
the sail was set, and, filled by the breeze, it carried us 
away from the dreary spot where we had sorrowfully left 
all that was good and faithful. It was a happy end — 
most merciful, as he had been taken from a land of 
iniquity in all the purity of a child converted from 
Paganism to Christianity. He had lived and died in our 
service a good Christian. Our voyage was nearly over, 
and we looked forward to home and friends, but we had 
still fatigues before us : poor Saat had reached his home 
and rest. Two faithful followers we had buried, — Johann 
Schmidt at the commencement of the voyage, and Saat at 
its termination. 

A few miles from this spot, a head wind delayed us for 
several days. Losing patience, I engaged camels from 
the Arabs ; and riding the whole day, we reached Khartoum 
about half an hour after sunset on the 5th of May, 1865. 

On the following morning we were welcomed by the 
entira European population of Khartoum, to whom are 
due my warmest thanks for many kind attentions. We 
were kindly offered a house by Monsieur Lombrosio, the 
manager of the Khartoum branch of the " Oriental and 
Egyptian Trading Company." 

I now heard the distressing news of the death of my 
poor friend Speke. I could not realize the truth of this 
melancholy report until I read the details of his fatal 
accident in the appendix of a French translation of his 
work. It was but a sad consolation that I could confirm 
his discoveries, and bear witness to the tenacity and 
perseverance with which he had led his party through the 
untrodden path of Africa to the first Nile source. This 
being the close of the expedition, I wish it to be distinctly 
understood how thoroughly I support the credit of Speke 
and Grant for their discovery of the first and most 



Chap. XIX.] ALBERT LAKE RESERVOIR OF NILE. 461 

elevated source of the Nile in the great Yictoria N'yanza. 
Although I call the river between the two lakes the 
" Somerset," as it was named by Speke upon the map he 
gave to me, I must repeat that it is positively the Yictoria 
Nile, and the name " Somerset" is only used to distinguish 
it, in my description, from the entire Nile that issues from 
the Albert N'yanza. 

Whether the volume of water added by the latter lake 
be greater than that supplied by the Yictoria, the fact 
remains unaltered: the Yictoria is the highest and first- 
discovered source ; the Albert is the second source, but the 
entire reservoir of the Nile waters. I use the term source 
as applying to each reservoir as a head or main starting- 
point of the river. I am quite aware that it is a debated 
point among geographers, whether a lake can be called a 
source, as it owes its origin to one or many rivers ; but, as 
the innumerable torrents of the mountainous regions of 
Central Africa pour into these great reservoirs, it would be 
impossible to give preference to any individual stream. Such 
a theoiy would become a source of great confusion, and the 
Nile sources might remain for ever undecided ; a thousand 
future travellers might return, each with his particular 
source in his portfolio, some stream of insignificant 
magnitude being pushed forward as the true origin of 
the Nile. 

I found few letters awaiting me at Khartoum : all the 
European population of the place had long ago given us 
up for lost. It was my wish to start without delay direct 
for England, but there were extraordinary difficulties in 
this wretched country of the Soudan. A drought of two 
years had created a famine throughout the land, attended 
by a cattle and camel plague, that had destroyed so many 
camels that all commerce was stagnated. No merchandise 
could be transported from Khartoum ; thus no purchases 
could be made by the traders in the interior : the country, 
always wretched, was ruined. 

The plague, or a malignant typhus, had run riot in 
Khartoum: out of 4,000 black troops, only a remnant 
below 400 remained alive ! This frightful malady, that 



462 A DARKNESS THAT MIGHT BE FELT. [Chap. XIX. 

had visited our boat, had revelled in the filth and crowded 
alleys of the Soudan capital. 

The Blue Nile was so low that even the noggurs drawing 
three feet of water could not descend the river. Thus, 
the camels "being dead, and the river impassable, no corn 
could be brought from Sennaar and Watmedene : there 
was a famine in Khartoum — neither fodder for animals, 
nor food for man. Being unable to procure either camels 
or boats, I was compelled to wait at Khartoum until the 
Nile should rise sufficiently to enable us to pass the 
cataracts between that town and Berber.* 

We remained two months at Khartoum. During this 
time we were subjected to intense heat and constant dust- 
storms, attended with a general plague of boils. Verily, 
the plagues of Egypt remain to this day in the Soudan. 
On the 26th June, we had the most extraordinary dust- 
storm that had ever been seen by the inhabitants. I was 
sitting in the courtyard of my agent's house at about 
4.30 p.m. : there was no wind, and the sun was as bright 
as usual in this cloudless sky, when suddenly a gloom was 
cast over all, — a dull yellow glare pervaded the atmosphere. 
Knowing that this effect portended a dust-storm, and that 
the present calm would be followed by a hurricane of 
wind, I rose to go home, intending to secure the shutters. 
Hardfy had I risen, when I saw approaching, from the 
S.W. apparently, a solid range of immense brown moun- 
tains, high in air. So rapid was the passage of this 
extraordinary phenomenon, that in a few minutes we were 
in actual pitchy darkness. At first there was no wind, 
and the peculiar calm gave an oppressive character to the 
event. We were in "a darkness that might be felt." 
Suddenly the wind arrived, but not with the violence that 
I had expected. There were two persons with me, Michael 
Latfalla, my agent, and Monsieur Lombrosio. So intense 
was the darkness, that we tried to distinguish our hands 
placed close before our eyes; — not even an outline could 
be seen. This lasted for upwards of twenty minutes: it 

* The want of water in the Blue Nile, as here described, exemplifies the 
theory that Lower Egypt owes its existence during the greater portion af 
the year entirely to the volume of the White Nile. 



Chap. XIX.] HORRIBLE SLAVE CARGO. 463 

then rapidly passed away, and the sun shone as before; 
but we had felt the darkness that Moses had inflicted upon 
the Egyptians. 

The Egyptian Government had, it appeared, been pressed 
by some of the European Powers to take measures for the 
suppression of the slave-trade : a steamer had accordingly 
been ordered to capture all vessels laden with this in- 
famous cargo. Two vessels had been seized and brought to 
Khartoum, containing 850 human beings ! — packed together 
like anchovies, the living and the dying festering together, 
and the dead lying beneath them. European eye-witnesses 
assured me that the disembarking of this frightful cargo 
could not be adequately described. The slaves were in a 
state of starvation, having had nothing to eat for several 
days. They were landed in Khartoum ; the dead and 
many of the dying were tied by the ankles, and dragged 
along the ground by donkeys through the streets. The 
most malignant typhus, or plague, had been engendered 
among this mass of filth and misery, thus closely packed 
together. Upon landing, the women were divided by the 
Egyptian authorities among the soldiers. These creatures 
brought the plague to Khartoum, which, like a curse 
visited upon this country of slavery and abomination, 
spread like a fire throughout the town, and consumed the 
regiments that had received this horrible legacy from the 
dying cargo of slaves. Among others captured by the 
authorities on a charge of slave-trading was an Austrian 
subject, who was then in the custody of the consul. A 
French gentleman, Monsieur Gamier, had been sent to 
Khartoum by the French Consulate of Alexandria on a 
special inquiry into the slave-trade ; he was devoting 
himself to the subject with much energy. 

While at Khartoum I happened to find Mahommed 
Her ! the vakeel of Chenooda's party, who had instigated 
my men to mutiny at Latooka, and had taken my deserters 
into his employ. I had promised to make an example of 
this fellow; I therefore had him arrested, and brought 
before the Divan. "With extreme effrontery, he denied 
having had anything to do with the affair, adding to his 



464 MAHOMMED HER PUNISHED. [Chap. XIX. 

denial all knowledge of the total destruction of his party 
and of my mutineers by the Latookas. Having a crowd 
of witnesses in my own men, and others that I had found 
in Khartoum who had belonged to Koorshid's party at 
that time, his barefaced lie was exposed, and he was con- 
victed. I determined that he should be punished, as an 
example that would insure respect to any future English 
traveller in those regions. My men, and all those with 
whom I had been connected, had been accustomed to 
rely most implicitly upon all that I had promised, and 
the punishment of this man had been an expressed 
determination. 

I went to the Divan and demanded that he should be 
flogged. Omer Bey was then Governor of the Soudan, in 
the place of Moosa Pasha deceased. He sat upon the 
divan, in the large hall of justice by the river. Motioning 
me to take a seat by his side, and handing me his pipe, he 
called the officer in waiting, and gave the necessary orders. 
In a few minutes the prisoner was led into the hall, 
attended by eight soldiers. One man carried a strong pole 
about seven feet long, in the centre of which was a double 
chain, riveted through in a loop. The prisoner was imme- 
diately thrown down with his face to the ground, while 
two men stretched out his arms and sat upon them ; his 
feet were then placed within the loop of the chain, and 
the pole being twisted round until firmly secured, it was 
raised from the ground sufficiently to expose the soles of 
the feet. Two men with powerful hippopotamus whips 
stood, one on either side. The prisoner thus secured, the 
order was given. The whips were most scientifically applied, 
and after the first five dozen, the slave-hunting scoundrel 
howled most lustily for mercy. How often had he flogged 
unfortunate slave women to excess, and what murders had 
that wretch committed, who now howled for mercy ! I 
begged Omer Bey to stop the punishment at 150 lashes, 
and to explain to him publicly in the divan, that he was 
thus punished for attempting to thwart the expedition of 
an English traveller, by instigating my escort to mutiny. 

This affair over — all my accounts paid — and my men 



Chap. XIX.] NEARLY WRECKED. 465 

dismissed with their hands full of money, — I was ready to 
start for Egypt. The Nile rose sufficiently to enable the 
passage of the cataracts, and on the 30th June we took 
leave of all friends in Khartoum, and of my very kind 
agent, Michael Latfalla, well known as Hallil el Shami, 
who had most generously cashed all my bills on Cairo 
without charging a fraction of exchange. On the morning 
of 1st July, we sailed from Khartourn to Berber. 

On approaching the fine basalt hills through which the 
river passes during its course from Khartoum, I was sur- 
prised to see the great Nile contracted to a trifling width 
of from eighty to a hundred and twenty yards. Walled 
by high cliffs of basalt upon either side, the vast volume 
of the Nile flows grandly through this romantic pass, the 
water boiling up in curling eddies, showing that rocky 
obstructions exist in its profound depths below. 

Our voyage was very nearly terminated at the passage 
of the cataracts. Many skeletons of wrecked vessels lay 
upon the rocks in various places : as we were flying along 
in full sail before a heavy gale of wind, descending a 
cataract, we struck upon a sandbank — fortunately not upon 
a rock, or we should have gone to pieces like a glass bottle. 
The tremendous force of the stream, running at the rate of 
about ten or twelve miles per hour, immediately drove the 
vessel broadside upon the bank. About sixty yards below 
us was a ridge of rocks, upon which it appeared certain 
that we must be driven should we quit the bank upon 
which we were stranded. The reis and crew, as usual in 
such cases, lost their heads. I emptied a large waterproof 
portmanteau, and tied it together with ropes, so as to form 
a life-buoy for my wife and Eicharn, neither of whom 
could swim ; the maps, journals, and observations, I packed 
in an iron box, which I fastened with a tow-line to the 
portmanteau. It appeared that we were to wind up the 
expedition with shipwreck, and thus lose my entire collec- 
tion of hunting spoils. Having completed the preparations 
for escape, I took command of the vessel, and silenced the 
chattering crew. 

My first order was to lay out an anchor up stream. 

H H 



CLEAR THE DANGER. [Chap. XIX. 

This was done : the water was shallow, and the great 
weight of the anchor, carried on the shoulders of two men, 
enabled them to resist the current, and to wade hip-deep 
about forty yards up the stream upon the sandbank. 

Thus secured, I ordered the crew to haul upon the cable. 
The great force of the current bearing upon the broadside 
of the vessel, while her head was anchored up stream, bore 
her gradually round. All hands were now employed in 
clearing away the sand, and deepening a passage : loosen- 
ing the sand with their hands and feet, the powerful rapids 
carried it away. For five hours we remained in this 
position, the boat cracking, and half filled with water : 
however, we stopped the leak caused by the strain upon 
her timbers, and having, after much labour, cleared a 
channel in the narrow sandbank, the moment arrived to 
slip the cable, hoist the sail, and trust to the heavy gale of 
wind from the west to clear the rocks, that lay within a 
few yards of us to the north. " Let go ! " and, all being 
prepared, the sail was loosened, and filling in the strong 
gale with a loud report, the head of the vessel swung 
round with the force of wind and stream. Away we flew ! 
For an instant we grated on some hard substance : we stood 
upon the deck, watching the rocks exactly before us, with 
the rapids roaring loudly around our boat as she rushed 
upon what looked like certain destruction. Another 
moment, and we passed within a few inches of the rocks 
within the boiling surf. Hurrah ! we are all right ! We 
swept by the danger, and flew along the rapids, hurrying 
towards Old England. 

We arrived at Berber, the spot from which we had 
started upwards of four years ago for our Atbara expedi- 
tion. Here we were most hospitably received by Mon- 
sieur and Madame Laffargue, a French gentleman and his 
charming wife, who had for many years been residents in 
the Soudan. It is with feelings of gratitude that I express 
my thanks to all Frenchmen that I have met in those wild 
countries, for courtesies and attention, that were appre- 
ciated by me like unexpected flowers in a desert. I can 
only hope that Frenchmen may, when in need, receive the 



Chap. XIX.] START FROM BERBER TO SOUAKIM. 467 

same kindness from my countrymen, when travelling 
in lands far distant from la belle France. 

I determined upon the Eed Sea route to Egypt, instead 
of passing the horrible Korosko desert during the hot 
month of August. After some delay I procured camels, 
and started east for Souakim, from whence I hoped to 
procure a steamer to Suez. 

This route from Berber is not the usual caravan road : 
the country was in rather a disturbed state, owing to the 
mutiny of all the black troops in the Egyptian service in 
the Taka province ; and the Hadendowa Arabs, who are at 
no time the best of their race, were very excited. The 
first eight days' journey are devoid of water, except at two 
stations, — the route being desert. Our party consisted of 
my wife, Eicharn, Achmet, and Z^neb ; the latter was a 
six-foot girl of the Dinka tribe, with whom Eicharn had 
fallen in love and married during our sojourn at Khar- 
toum. Z^neb was a good girl, rather pretty, as strong 
as a giraffe, and a good cook ; a very valuable acquisition 
for Eicharn. Her husband, who had been my faithful 
follower, was now a rich man, being the owner of 
thirty napoleons, the balance of his wages. Achmet was 
an Egyptian servant, whom I had recently engaged in 
Khartoum. I had also offered a Swiss missionary the 
protection of our party. 

One day, during the heat of noon, after a long march in 
the burning sun through a treeless desert, we descried a 
solitary tree in the distance, to which we hurried as to 
a friend. Upon arrival, we found its shade occupied by a 
number of Hadendowa Arabs. Dismounting from our 
camels, we requested them to move and to give place for 
our party — as a tree upon the desert is like a well of 
water, to be shared by every traveller. Far from giving 
the desired place, they most insolently refused to allow 
us to share the tree. Upon Eicharn attempting to take 
possession, he was rudely pushed on one side, and an Arab 
drew his knife. Achmet had a coorbatch (hippopotamus 
whip) in his hand, that he had used on his camel ; the act 
of raising this to threaten the Arab who had drawn his 

hh2 



46S COMBAT WITH THE ARABS. [Chap. XIX. 

knife was the signal for hostilities. Out flashed the 
broadswords from their sheaths ! and the headman of the 
party aimed a well-intended cut at my head. Parrying 
the cut with my sun umbrella, I returned with a quick 
thrust directly in the mouth, the point of the peaceful 
weapon penetrating to his throat with such force that he 
fell upon his back. Almost at the same moment I had to 
parry another cut from one of the crowd that smashed my 
umbrella completely, and left me with my remaining 
weapons, a stout Turkish pipe-stick about four feet long, 
and my fist. Parrying with the stick, thrusting in return 
at the face, and hitting sharp with the left hand, I managed 
to keep three or four of the party on and off upon their 
backs, receiving a slight cut with a sword upon my left 
arm in countering a blow which just grazed me as I 
knocked down the owner, and disarmed him. My wife 
picked up the sword, as I had no time to stoop, and she 
stood well at bay with her newly-acquired weapon that a 
disarmed Arab wished to wrest from her, but dared not 
close with the naked blade. I had had the fight all my 
own way, as, being beneath the tree (the boughs of which 
were very near the ground), the Arabs, who do not under- 
stand the use of the point, were unable to use their swords, 
as thjeir intended cuts were intercepted by the branches. 
Vigorous thrusting and straight hitting cleared the tree, 
and the party were scattered right and left, followed up by 
Eicharn and Achmet, armed with double-barrelled rifles. 
I was determined to disarm the whole party, if possible. 
One of the Arabs, armed with a lance, rushed up to attack 
Richarn from behind ; but Zeneb was of the warlike Dinka 
tribe, and having armed herself with the hard wood handle 
of the axe, she went into the row like " Joan of Arc," and 
hastening to the rescue of Eicharn, she gave the Arab 
such a whack upon the head that she knocked him down 
on the spot, and seizing his lance she disarmed him. 
Thus armed, she rushed into the thickest of the fray. 

" Bravo, Zeneb ! " I could not help shouting. Seizing a 
thick stick that had been dropped by one of the Arabs, I 
called Eicharn and our little party together, and attacking 



Ohap. XIX.] DISARM THE ARABS. 469 

the few Arabs who still offered resistance, they were imme- 
diately knocked down and disarmed. The leader of the 
party, who had been the first to draw his sword and had 
received a mouthful of umbrella, had not moved from the 
spot where he fell, but amused himself with coughing and 
spitting. I now ordered him to be bound, and threatened 
to tie him to my camel's tail and lead him a prisoner to 
the Governor of Souakim, unless he called all those of his 
party who had run away. They were now standing at a 
distance in the desert, and I insisted upon the delivery of 
their weapons. Being thoroughly beaten and cowed, he 
conferred with those whom we had taken prisoners, and 
the affair ended by all the arms being delivered up. 
We counted six swords, eleven lances, and a heap of 
knives, the number of which I forget. 

I ordered the entire party to stand in a line ; and I 
gave them their choice, whether the ringleaders would 
receive a flogging from me, or whether I should tie them 
to the tails of camels and lead them to the Turkish 
Governor of Souakim ? They immediately chose the 
former ; and, calling them from the rank, I ordered them 
to lie down on the ground to receive punishment. 

They submitted like dogs ; Eicharn and Achmet stood 
over them with their whips, ready for the word. At this 
moment an old white-headed Arab of my caravan came to 
me : kneeling down, he stroked my beard with his dirty 
hands, and implored pardon for the offenders. Thoroughly 
understanding the Arab character, I replied, "They are 
miserable sons of dogs, and their swords are like the 
feathers of a fowl ; they deserve flogging, but when a white 
head asks for pardon, it should be granted. God is 
merciful, and we are all his children." Thus was the affair 
ended to the satisfaction of our side. 1 broke all the 
lances into fragments upon a rock, — ordered Zeneb to 
make a fire with the wood of the handles, to boil some 
coffee ; and tying the swords into a bundle, we packed the 
lance-heads and knives in a basket, with the understanding 
that they should be delivered to their owners on our 
arrival at the last well, after which point there would be 



4 y KOKREB. [Chap. XIX. 

water on the route everyday. From that place there would 
be no fear of our camels being stolen, and of our bemg 
deserted in the desert. 

On arrival at the well a few days later, I delivered the 
weapons to their owners as promised, they havmg followed 
our party. Souakim is about 275 miles from the Nile 
at Berber. At Kokreb, about half-way we entered the 
chain of mountains that extends from Suez parallel with 
the Eed Sea to the south ; many portions °f /hischam are 
four or five thousand feet above the sea-level The moun- 
tains were exceedingly beautiful, their precrpi ous sid es of 
barren rock exhibiting superb strata of red and grey 
"ranite, with vast masses of exquisite red and green 
wrXry Many hills were of basalt, so black, that during 
aTenli/e day's journey the face of the count* y ^appeared 
like a vast desert of coal, rn broken hills and block* 
stoewed over the surface of the ground. Kokreb was a 
lovely oasis beneath the high mountains, with a forest _of 
low mimosas in full leaf, and a stream ™iimetotito 
mountains, the produce of a recent storm J^g°™ 
this country there are no rivers that should be noticec on 
a map as the torrents are merely the effects of violent 
storms' which, falling upon the mountains several times 
S the rarny season from June to the end of August, 
teTfheir boisterous way along their stony course and dry 
tm in a few hours, becoming exhausted in the sand ot the 
deserts For some days our course lay along a deep ravine 
be ween stupendous cliffs; this was the bed of a torren , 
that after heavy storms, flowed through the J™^_ 
inclining to the east ; in this were pools of most beauti- 
ECoS* water. In many places the ^*™**£ 
cliffs were fringed with lovely green trees. It was extra 
o» to observe the activity of the camels md^ 
the most difficult passes, and in picking their way ^among 
the rocks and stones that obstructed the route. In many 
places camels might be seen grazing upon the green 
mimosa bushes, that growing among the roc ks ^J£°? 
the mountains had tempted the animals into places that I 
should not have believed they could have reached. 



Chap. XIX.] SOUAKIM. 471 

After a journey of twenty-four days from the Nile at 
Berber, we emerged from the mountain-pass, and from the 
elevated embouchure we obtained a sudden and most 
welcome view of the Eed Sea. We now quickly descended: 
the heat increased every hour; and after a long day's 
march, we slept within a few miles of Souakim. On the 
following morning we entered the town. 

Souakim is a considerable town; the houses are all 
built of coral. The principal dwellings, and the custom- 
house and Government offices are situated on an island in 
the harbour. We were received with much attention by the 
Governor, Moomtazze* Bey, who very kindly offered us a 
house. The heat was frightful, the thermometer 115° Fahr., 
and in some houses 120°. 

There is no doubt that Souakim should be the port for 
all exports and imports for the Soudan provinces. Were a 
line of steamers established from Suez, to call regularly 
at Souakim, at a moderate freight, it would become a most 
prosperous town, as the geographical position marks it as 
the nucleus for all trade with the interior. At present 
there is no regularity : the only steamers that touch at 
Souakim are those belonging to the Abdul Azziz Com- 
pany, who trade between Suez and Jedda. Although 
advertised for distinct periods, they only visit Souakim 
when they think proper, and their rates are most exor- 
bitant. 

There was no steamer upon our arrival. After waiting 
in intense heat for about a fortnight, the Egyptian thirty- 
two gun steam frigate, Ilrahimeya, arrived with a regi- 
ment of Egyptian troops, under Giaffer Pasha, to quell 
the mutiny of the black troops at Kassala, twenty clays' 
march in the interior. The General Giaffer Pasha, and 
Mustapha Bey the captain of the frigate, gave us an 
entertainment on board in English style, in honour of the 
completion of the Nile discovery. Giaffer Pasha most 
kindly placed the frigate at our disposal to convey us to 
Suez, and both he and Mustapha Bey endeavoured in every 
way to accommodate us. Eor their extreme courtesy I 
take this opportunity of making my acknowledgment. 



472 FAREWELL TO AFBLCA. [Chap. XIX. 

Orders for sailing had been received, but suddenly a 
steamer was signalled as arriving : this was a transport, 
with troops. As she was to return immediately to Suez, 
I preferred the dirty transport rather than incur a further 
delay. We started from Souakim, and after live days' 
voyage we arrived at Suez. Landing from the steamer, I 
once more found myself in an English hotel. The spacious 
inner court was arranged as an open conservatory ; in this 
was a bar for refreshments, and " Allsopp's Pale Ale" on 
draught, with an ice accompaniment. What an Elysium ! 
The beds had sheets and pillow-cases! neither of which 
had I possessed for years. 

The hotel was thronged with passengers to India, with 
rosy, blooming English ladies, and crowds of my own 
countrymen. I felt inclined to talk to everybody. Never 
was I so in love with my own countrymen and women ; 
but they (I mean the ladies) all 'had large balls of hair 
at the backs of their heads ! What an extraordinary 
change ! I called Eicharn, my pet savage from the heart 
of Africa, to admire them. " Ebw, Eicharn, look at them !" 
I said. " What do you think of the English ladies ? eh, 
Eicharn ? Are they not lovely ?" 

"Wah Illahi!" exclaimed the astonished Eicharn, 
" theyt are beautiful ! What hair ! They are not like the 
negro savages, who work other people's hair into their 
own heads; theirs' is all real — all their own — how beau- 
tiful !" 

" Yes, Eicharn," I replied, "all their own/" This was 
my first introduction to the " chignon." 

We arrived at Cairo, and I established Eicharn and 
his wife in a comfortable situation, as private servants 
to Mr. Zech, the master of Sheppard's Hotel. The cha- 
racter I gave him was one that I trust has done him 
service : he had shown an extraordinary amount of moral 
courage in totally reforming from his original habit of 
drinking. I left my old servant with a heart too full 
to say good-bye ; a warm squeeze of his rough, but honest 
black hand, and the whistle of the train sounded, — we 
were off! 



Chap. XIX.] EXERTIONS APPRECIATED. 473 

I had left Kicharn, and none remained of my people. 
The past appeared like a dream — the rushing sound of 
the train renewed ideas of civilization. Had I really 
come from the Nile Sources? It was no dream. A 
witness sat before me ; a face still young, but bronzed 
like an Arab by years of exposure to a burning sun ; 
haggard and worn with toil and sickness, and shaded 
with cares, happily now past; the devoted companion 
of my pilgrimage, to whom I owed success and life — 
my wife. 

I had received letters from England, that had been 
waiting at the British Consulate; — the first I opened 
informed me, that the Eoyal Geographical Society had 
awarded me the Victoria Gold Medal, at a time when 
they were unaware whether I was alive or dead, and 
when the success of my expedition was unknown. This 
appreciation of my exertions was the warmest welcome 
that I could have received on my first entrance into 
civilization after so many years of savagedom : it rendered 
the completion of the Nile Sources doubly grateful, as I 
had fulfilled the expectations that the Geographical Society 
had so generously expressed, by the presentation of their 
medal before my task was done. 



APPENDIX. 



COMPUTATION OF Mr. BAKEE'S OBSERVATIONS. 



Heights of Stations above the Mean Level of the Sea determined 
by Boiling-water Observations by S. W. Baker, Esq. com- 
puted by E. Dunkin, Esq. of Greenwich Observatory. 

Feet. 

Tarrangolle 2047 

Obbo 3480 

Shoggo 3770 

Asua River 2619 

Shooa 3619 

Rionga's Island 3685 

Karuma, below falls 3737 

south of falls 3796 

South of Karuma, at river level .... 3794 

M'rooli, river level, junction of Kafoor . . 3796 

"West of M'rooli, on road to Albert lake . . 4291 

Land above lake, east cliff 4117 

Albert N'yanza, lake level 2448 

Shooa Mora, island of Patooan .... 2918 

Gondokoro 1636 

The above heights will be found to differ considerably from 
those given by Mr. Baker in his letter written from Khartoum 
in May, 1865, and published in the Times newspaper in June. 
This arises from Mr. Baker having corrected his observations, 
whilst in the interior of Africa, from what have since proved 
erroneous data : the above are the correct computations of the 
same observations. 



476 APPENDIX. 

Remarks on the Thermometer B. W. used by Mr. S. W. Baker in 
determining Heights. By Staff - Commander C. George, 
Curator of Maps, Eoyal Geographical Society. 

This thermometer was one of the three supplied by the Boyal 
Geographical Society to Consul Petherick, in 1861, and was 
made by Mr. Casella. 

At Gondokoro, in March, 1862, it was lent to Mr. Baker, 
who made all his observations with it, and brought it back safe : 
it has, therefore, been in use about 4| years. 

On November 9th, 1865, Mr. Baker returned it to the Royal 
Geographical Society, and it was immediately taken to Mr. 
Casella, who tested its accuracy by trying its boiling-point, in 
nearly the same manner as Mr. Baker had made his observa- 
tions. The result by two independent observers was that the 
boiling-point had increased in its reading by o, 75 in 4f years, 
or o, 172 yearly. 

On November 23d the thermometer was again tested by Mr. 
Baker at the Kew Observatory. The observation was made 
under the same conditions as those near the Albert N'yanza, as 
nearly as it was possible to make it.* The result gave the 
thermometer O- 80 too much at the boiling-point. 

The readings of the thermometer have, therefore, been too 
much; and by reducing the readings, it elevates all positions at 
which observations were made. 

Table No. 1. — In this Table the error obtained at Kew Ob- 
servatory has been treated bike that of a chronometer, the error 
being assumed increasing and regular. 

Table No. 2 is to correct the height, computed by Mr. Dun- 
kin, using the quantity taken from Table No. 1. 

Table No. 3 is the final result of the observations for height, 
corrected for instrumental error. 

* By immersion in boiling water. 



APPENDIX. 



477 



Table No. 1. 

Table for Increased Reading of Thermometer, using o, 80 as the Result of 
Observations for its Error. 



Month. 


1861. 


1862. 


1863. 


1864. 


1865. 







o 


o 





o 


January . . . 


— 


0-143 


0-314 


0-487 


0-659 


February 






— 


•157 


-328 


•501 


•673 


March . 






o-ooo 


•172 


•344 


•516 


•688 


April 






•014 


•186 


•358 


•530 


•702 


May . . 






•028 


•200 


•372 


•544 


•716 


June . 






•043 


•214 


•387 


•559 


•730 


July . . 






•057 


•228 


•401 


•573 


•744 


August . 






•071 


•243 


■415 


•587 


•758 


September 






•086 


•257 


•430 


•602 


772 


October . 






•100 


•271 


•444 


•616 


•786 


November 






■114 


•285 


■458 


•630 


0-800 


December 






0-129 


0-300 


0-473 


0-645 


— 



Table No. 2. 

At the elevation of 3,500 feet, 1° equals about 520 feet, from which the 
following — 



„ 


Feet. 





Feet. 





Feet. 


1-0 . . 


. 520 


•7 . 


. 364 


•3 . . 


. 156 


•9 . . 


. 468 


•6 . 


. 312 


•25 . . 


. 130 


•8 . . 


. 416 


•5 . 


. 260 


•2 . . 


. 104 


•75 . . 


. 390 


•4 . 


. 208 


•1 . . 


. 52 



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INDEX. 



A. 

Abbai, a little motherless slave 
adopted by Mrs. Baker, 417, 418 ; 
his precocity and good qualities, 
418 ; a pet favourite, 419. 

Abou Hamed, town of, 4. 

Aboukooka, the establishment of a 
French trader, 50 ; misery of the 
land, 50, 51. 

Abyssinia, rivers and affluents of, 
4, 5 ; the rainy season of, 6 ; 
violence of the rains, ib. ; they 
supply the mountain streams that 
feed the affluents of the Nile, 
442. 

Achmet, an Egyptian servant, 467. 

Adda, a chief of Latooka, 88, 152 ; 
his infamous proposal to plunder 
one of his own villages, ib. ; acts 
as guide, 166. 

Adda's village, 227. 

Africa, commerce with the interior, 
243 ; manners and customs of, 
passim {see Central Africa) ; 
farewell to, 473. 

Akkara, cavalry of the, 130. 

Albert N'yanza, Expedition to dis- 
cover the Lake as the source of 
the Nile, 1 et seq. ; first clue to 
the Lake, 220 ; the start for, 295 ; 
its discovery, 308 ; the author's 
feelings on the occasion, ib. ; so 
named in honour of the late 
Prince Consort of England, 308 ; 
this and the Victoria Lake the 
two great sources of the Nile, 
ib. ; the first draught from the 
waters, 309 ; fishing of, ib. ; the 



Lake declared to be the sea, 310 ; 
salt-pits at, ib. ; the surrounding 
scenery, 311 ; geography of the 
Lake, 312; countries bordering on 
the, ib. ; its apparently boundless 
extent, 313 ; the great basin of 
the Nile, ib. ; its numerous afflu- 
ents, 314 ; voyage upon the, 317, 
318 ; its difficulties, 320 ; storm 
on the, 321, 322, 323 ; crocodiles 
and elephants in the Lake, 324, 

325 ; inhospitality of the natives, 

326 ; change in its character, 
327, 328 ; fish and fishing of the, 
330, 331 ; exit of the Nile from 
the, 332 ; the canoe voyage termi- 
nates, 339, 340 ; the Expedition 
bids adieu to it, ib. ; river level, 
345, 475 ; mountains running 
from to the north, 410 ; the great 
basin of the Nile, and the re- 
cipient of affluents south of the 
equator, 439 ; the direct channel 
of the Nile, which receives the 
waters of the Victoria Lake, 440 ; 
the second source, but the entire 
reservoir of the Nile waters, 461 ; 
2,448 feet above the sea level, 
475. 

Aliab tribe, 53. 

Altitudes of the Albert Lake and 
the surrounding country, 345, 
475. 

Ambatch wood, 29. 

Angarep, fitted up as a travelling 
convenience, 238. 

Angrab river, 4, 5. 

Animal kingdom, wonderful varie- 
ties in the, 182. 



480 



INDEX. 



Antelopes, stalking of, 120, 121, 
420, 453, 454 ; tracks of, 163 ; 
destroyed by firing the grass, 178 ; 
the rare and beautiful breed, the 
Maharif, 214 ; of the Mehedehet 
species, 257, 258 ; hunting the, 
258. 

Arab servants, their duplicity and 
treachery, 74, 75. 

Arabic, a knowledge of, necessary in 
Africa, 3. 

Arabs, graves of the, 36 ; their 
cowardice, 37 ; being simply 
brown are called white, 221 ; a 
fight with, for the possession of a 
shady tree, 468; are defeated, 469. 

Architecture of Latooka, 135. 

Asua river, reconnaissance towards 
the, 203 ; impassable at certain 
seasons, 247 ; forms the main 
drain in a deep valley, 257 ; 
arrival at, 429 ; a mountain tor- 
rent during the rains, ib. ; route 
from, ib. ; suspicious movements 
of the natives, 430 ; attacked in 
the pass, 430, 431 ; an affluent of 
the White Nile, 441 ; 2,619 feet 
above the sea level, 475. 

Atabbi river, 205 ; 261. 

Atada, village of, 272, 273; ferry 
of, 274 ; lat. of, at Karuma Falls, 
279^ extracts from the travelling 
■journal, describing the delay at, 
286—288. 

Atbara river, 3, 4 ; its junction with 
the Nile, 4, 5, 442 ; perfectly dry 
for several months during the 
year, 5 ; receives the entire drain- 
age of Abyssinia, 6. 

Austrian Mission station, 51 ; 
melancholy failure of the, 52. 



B. 



Babanoose trees, 106. 

Baboons, a large party of, sitting on 

the rocks, 214. 
" Baby " rifle, 177. 
Bacheeta, the Unyoro slave, 241 ; 

her important communications, 



241 ; her equivocal position, 263 ; 
secretly instructs the guide to 
lead the Expedition to Eionga 
instead of to Kamrasi, 269 ; in- 
terview with, 270 ; difficulties of 
arranging with, as interpreter, 293 ; 
her suLkiness, ib. ; recognises her 
old mistress among some female 
captives, 376 ; runs away, 408 
note. 
Bagara Arabs, 23 ; the elephant 
hunters of the White Nile, 171, 
172 ; their courage, 415. 
Baggera, a fish of the Nile, 330, 

331. 
Bahr el Gazal, a river of the Nile, 
31 ; lake of, 32 ; its general cha- 
racter, 33, 34 ; an affluent of the 
White Nile, 442 ; junction of the, 
455. 
Bahr Giraffe, a small river of the 

Nile, 31, 442. 
Baker, Mr., his adventurous spirit, 
and the dangers to which he was 
everywhere exposed (see Expedi- 
tion, passion) ; his thermome- 
trical observations of stations 
above the mean level of the sea, 
475 ; his tables of increased read- 
ing of thermometer, 477. 
Baker, Mrs. , her anxieties and dif- 
ficulties, 84 ; the dangers to which 
she was frequently exposed (see 
Expedition, passim) ; struck 
with coup de soleil, 302 ; her 
dreadful situation, 302 et seq. ; 
her life despaired of, 304 ; her un- 
expected recovery, 305 ; the de- 
voted companion of her husband's 
pilgrimage, 473 ; her happy re- 
turn, ib. ; (see Expedition). 
Bari tribe, or Baris, 58 ; a hostile 
race, 59, 60 ; their frequent de- 
feats and punishment, ib. ; their 
language, 68 ; engaged as inter- 
preters, 85, 154 ; a chiefs advice 
not to proceed, 85 ; their hos- 
tility, 86, 87 ; the best men among 
Ibrahim's party, 260 ; a Bari boy 
bravely rescues the Turkish flag,* 
ib. ; attack the escort of the 



INDEX. 



481 



Expedition on its return, 4S0, 431 ; 
shoot poisoned arrows, 433. 

Bark cloth at Unyoro, 278. _ 

Bartooma, the great mountain that 
feeds the lakes Luta N'zige and 
Victoria N'yanza, 283. 

Beads, highly appreciated at Uny- 
oro, 283 ; those most valued, 
362. 

Bean, with a blossom of delicious 
perfume, 241. 

Beauty, strange conception of, in 
Latooka, 132, 133. 

Beetles, of immense size, 240, 241. 

Bellaal, his mutinous disposition, 
117, 125 ; his castigation, 125 ; 
desertion of, 128 ; disabled by the 
punishment inflicted, 141. 

Belignan, arrival at, 93 ; mountain, 
433. 

Berber, arrival of the Expedition 
at, 3 ; and on its return, 466 ; 
route from, 467. 

Binder, an Austrian trader, 45. 

Birds attack and seriously injure the 
donkeys, 73. 

Bivouac in the wilderness, 218. 

Blacks (see Negroes). 

Blacksmiths of Latooka, 165. 

Blue Nile, 2, 3 ; its want of water 
during the diy season, 4, 462 
note ; its water delicious, 5, 6 ; 
receives the entire drainage of 
Abyssinia, 6 ; its principal afflu- 
ents, 7. 

Boar, roasting and eating one in a 
state of decomposition, 101. 

Boatmen, desertion of the, 318, 319; 
native volunteers, 321. 

Boats, difficulty of obtaining, 315 ; 
management of the, 316, 817 ; 
nearly swamped, 323. 

Body-guard of Kamrasi, 408. 

Bohr tribe, 53. 

Bokke, of Latooka, and her daugh- 
ter, 135—137 ; her proposal for 
improving the appearance of Mrs. 
Baker by extracting her teeth, 
137 ; her ornaments, ib. ; her 
courage and prowess, 143. 

Boss Catfer, the, 37. 



Bottle gourds used as models by the 

African savages, 280. 
Bread-baking on the march to La- 
tooka, 218. 
British flag protects TJnyoro, 370 ; 

Kamrasi begs for it, 372. 
Buffalo, one shot, 35 ; kills Said 

Achmet, 36 ; its ferocity, 87. 
Buffaloes, two varieties, 37 ; at the 

foot of the mountains of Latooka, 

166 ; hunting of, 169 ; destroyed 

by firing the grass, 178. 
Bull of the herd, in the Kytch 

country, 48, 49. 
Bullets for heavy game, 175 ; their 

shape and size, 176. 
Butter for sale, packed in a plantain 

leaf, 363. 
Butter-nuts of Obbo, 195. 



Cairo, the Expedition starts from, 

2. 
Camel, poisoned by the herbage, 

159 ; habits of the, 159, 160 ; a 

grievous loss, 161 ; death of the 

last one, 244. 
Camels, delays caused by the, 98 ; 

sickness and death of the, 219. 
Cannibal tribe of Makkarika, 187 ; 

slave children stolen and eaten 

by, ib. 
Canoes for lake voyage, 316. 
Cap, so constructed as to form a 

pillow for the night, 206. 
Capella, meridian altitude of, 266 ; 

lat. 269. 
Capellan, Madame Yon, and party, 

death of, 21 note. 
Cashmere mantle given to king 

Kamrasi, 289. 
Cassave, the messenger, 385. 
Castor-oil plant in Obbo, 245. 
Cataracts of the Nile, 465, 466 ; 

difficulties and dangers of the, ib. 
Cattle, exchanged for ivory, 14 ; 

abundant at Latooka, but not to 

be purchased, 149 ; everything 

obtained for, as payment, 222. 

II 



482 



INDEX. 



Cattle-stealers, 231 ; one shot, ib. ; 

his body eaten by vultures, 232. 
Central Africa, natural resources 
of the vast surface of fertile soil, 
442 ; reflections on its savagedom, 
and the possibility of social im- 
provement, 442, 443 ; bowed 
down with the curse of slavery, 
444 ; the first step the annihilation 
of the slave trade, ib. ; open to 
navigation, 445 ; ethnology and 
languages of, 446 ; various tribes 
of, ib. ; their origin wrapt in ob- 
scurity, 447 ; its geological for- 
mation primitive, ib. ; the tribes 
are ignorant of God, ib. : its ele- 
vation about 4,000 feet, 448 ; Sir 
K. Murchison's theory of the 
geological system of, 448 et seq. 

Ceylon, elephants of, 174 et seq. 

Chenooda, the vakeel of, instigates 
thementomutiny,123; awounded 
man the sole relic of his fight with 
the Latookas, 180. 

Cherrybambi, the grandfather of 
king Kamrasi, 366. 

Children of the camp, 419, 420. 

Choi river, 130. 

Chopi, country of, 68 ; the northern 
district of Unyoro, 278 ; revolt 
and reconquest of, 366. 

Chronameter, given by Speke to 
Kamrasi, 294. 

Cider-making in Kisoona, 361. 

Classes, wonderful variety of, in the 
animal and vegetable kingdoms, 
182. 

Climate, unhealthiness of the, at the 
Nile sources, 315. 

Clothes in great demand at Unyoro, 
283. 

Clothing, when required, would find 
a market in exchange for ivory, 
243, 244. 

" Clumsy, " the vessel, 29 ; her worth- 
lessness, and difficulties in navi- 
gating her, 32, 33, 38. 

Collolollo, a variety of yam, 195. 

Commerce with the interior of 
Africa, 243 ; difficult, from the 
want of means of transport, 244. 



Commoro, the " Lion " king of La- 
tooka, his interviews with Mr. 
Baker, 144, 147, 155 etseq. ; averts 
a threatened attack, 148 ; a most 
clever and common-sense savage, 
155 ; discussion with, on life and 
death, 155 et seq. ; a materialist, 
158 ; could not understand the 
object of our visiting Latooka, 
ib. ; attacks the rebellious towu 
of Kayala, 221 ; in a disagreeable 
dilemma, 229. 

Conflagrations in Kamrasi's camp, 
380. 

Conspiracies of the escort, 79, 93, 
125 ; subdued, 126. 

Convolvulus, two varieties of, 33. . 

Cooking, the various methods of, 
224. 

Com, metaphor on the grain of, 
157. 

Cotton, varieties of, growing at 
Shooa, 421. 

Coup de soleil, stroke of, 302. 

Cowrie-shells, brought from a place 
called Magungo, 219. 

Cows more valued than wives, 139. 

Crested crane, the, 151. 

Crocodiles, great numbers in the 
Albert Lake, 317, 337, 338 ; 
shooting of, 325, 338, 339, 420 ; 
the flesh eaten, 325. 

Cynocephalus, immense specimen 
shot, 214 ; his hide cut into strips 
for ornaments, ib. 

D. 

Dancing at Obbo, 198. 

Daughters, the saleable value of, 
138, 139. 

Deang, village of, 388 ; no water 
there, ib. ; march from, 389 et 
seq. 

Death, discussion on, with Com- 
moro, 156. 

Debono, his ivory party from the 
south, 64; atrocities of his people, 
264 ; his trading party threatens 
Kisoona, 368, 369 ; negotiations 
opened with, 370 ; his menaced 



INDEX. 



483 



invasion of Kamrasi's territory, 
371. 

Deserters killed in fight, 3. 

Desertion of the escort, 128. 

Dinder river, 5. 

Dinka country, 26. 

Distillery, working of a, 402. 

Donkeys, attacked and seriously in- 
jured by birds, 73 ; advantages 
of, 95 ; their cunning, 99 ; delays 
caused by the, ib. ; their disgusting 
habits, 161 ; become carnivorous, 
162 ; their sickness and death, 
219 ; one of them a picture of 
starvation and misery, 247 ; their 
braying terrifies the natives, 372 ; 
some brought from the east of 
Shooa, 422. 

Drainage of the Nile towards the 
Sobat, 118. 

Drake's head, 150. 

Dromedary, the Hygeen breed, 160. 

Duck-shooting, 227 ; thieves accom- 
panying, ib. 

Ducks at Latooka, 149, 150, 151 ; 
their feathers, 152. 

Dust-storm, of extraordinary dark- 
ness, 462. 



E. 



Earthenware, nearly all savages 
have some idea of, 279, 280 ; civi- 
lization denoted by its perfection, 
279. 

Eddrees, the vakeel of the Turks, 
354 ; his excellent behaviour, 367 ; 
as leader of the Turkish party he 
refuses to give up the captives, 

377 ; his quarrel with Kamrasi, 

378 ; refused admittance at court, 

379 ; his negotiation, ib. 

Eesur, an Arab servant, his inso- 
lence and punishment, 62, 63. 

Egypt, causes of the annual inun- 
dation of the Nile, 6 ; in favour 
of the slave-trade, 444. 

Egyptian Nile, origin of the, here- 
tofore shrouded iu mystery, 447. 

Egyptian officials, 8 ; opposition of 
the, 17. 



Egyptian troops, their arrival at 
Souakim, 471 ; kindness of their 
commanders, ib. 

Elephants, at the foot of the La- 
tooka mountains, 163 ; of Central 
Africa and India, 172, 173 ; their 
distinguishing peculiarities, 173 ; 
of Ceylon, 173 et seq. ; hunting 
of, 166 et seq. ; character of the 
country influences their habits, 
174 ; directions for shooting them, 
176 ; those of Central Africa 
generally hunted for the sake of 
the flesh, 177 ; death of one a 
grand affair for the natives, ib. ; 
the various modes of killing them, 
ib. ; pitfalls for, ib. ; caught by 
firing the grass, 178 ; spear-hunt- 
ing of, 179 ; hunted by the Bagara 
tribes of the White Nile, 179 ; 
the Africans have no idea of 
domesticating them, 180 ; im- 
mense herds of, 204, 205 ; fearful 
contest with one, 204 ; night- 
watching for, 253 ; one of immense 
size shot, ib. ; its measurement, 
254 ; cut up by the natives, ib. ; 
on the Albert Lake, 326. 

Elephant-hunting, 166 et seq. y great 
bull elephant killed, and the tusks 
stolen by the natives, 172 ; cha- 
racter of the sport must vary 
according to the character of the 
country, 176 ; by the natives, 
178 ; by the Bagara tribes, 179 ; 
dangers of, 204. 

Ellyria, a powerful tribe among the 
mountains of, 89 ; journey to, 
and its difficulties, 93 et seq. ; 
natives of, brutal in manners, 
105 ; difficulties of the mountain 
pass, ib. ; a race for, 106 ; love- 
liness of the valley, ib. ; arrival 
at, 111 ; Legge, the chief of, 111, 
112, 114 ; a rich and powerful 
country, but no provisions pro- 
em-able at, 115 ; the Expedition 
departs from, ib. 

English, favourable opinion of the. 
entertained by the Africans, 275. 

Eppigoya, town of, 326 ; supplies 

112 



484 



INDEX. 



the Expedition with provisions 
and rowers for the boats, 327. 

Escort, quarrels of the, 79, 86, 248. 

Espionage, a perfect system of, 408. 

Ethnology of Central Africa, 446. 

Exhumation of the dead, 132. 

Expedition to discover the Sources 
of the Nile, — starts in March, 
1861, 1 ; sets out from Cairo, 2 ; 
crosses the Nubian desert, 3 ; 
reaches Berber, ib. ; arrives at 
Khartoum, 7 ; reaches the Sou- 
dan, 10 ; the firman granted by 
Said Pasha ignored by the Gover- 
nor-general of the Soudan, 16 ; 
opposed by the Egyptian authori- 
ties, 17 ; extensive preparations 
for sailing, 17 et seq. ; a poll-tax 
demanded and refused, 19 ; de- 
parture of the, 20 ; its progress, 21 
et seq. ; reaches the Bahr el Gazal, 
31 ; enters the Kytch country, 45 ; 
arrival at Gondokoro, 56 ; bad 
reception, 57 ; mutiny, 62 ; meet- 
ing of Speke and Grant, 65 ; re- 
ceives Speke's instructions, 68 ; 
mutinous conduct of the escort, 
79 et seq. ; its desperate situation, 
83, 84 ; murderous conspiracy 
against the, 86 et seq. ; starts 
from Gondokoro, 91 ; its march 
towards Ellyria, 94 et seq. ; the 
party dead beat, 99 ; deficiency 
of food, 100 ; arrives at Tollogo, 
101 ; arrival at Ellyria, 105 ; and 
the great difficulties of the pass, 

107 ; outmarched by the Turks, 

108 ; hostilities of the trading 
parties to the, 110 ; quits Ellyria, 
115 ; arrival at Kattaga, 128 ; 
at Tarrangolle, 129 ; arrives at 
Latooka, 126 ; prepares for an 
attack, 146 et seq. ; engaged in 
an elephant hunt, 167 et seq. ; 
daily employment of the, 188 ; 
great reduction of the escort, 
190 ; visits the country of the 
Obbos, 190 et seq. ; reconnais- 
sance to the south of Obbo, 203 
et seq. ; visits Farajoke, 206 ; re- 
turns to Obbo, 208 ; its return to 



Latooka, 218 ; sickness, fever, 
and small-pox, 219 ; death of the 
camels and donkeys, 219 ; pre- 
parations for leaving Latooka, 
229 ; the march to Obbo, 232, 
233 ; arrival at Obbo, 235 ; its 
great difficulties and miserable 
situation, ib. ; dependent on the 
traders' band of robbers, ib. ; 
assailed by rats and white ants, 
236 ; diary of the, 238—248 ; 
death of all the horses and camels, 
244 ; quarrels among the remain- 
ing escort, and severe attacks of 
fever, 247, 248 ; endures a miser- 
able existence at Obbo, 249 ; oxen 
trained for transport instead of 
horses, ib. ; Mr. Baker's skill as 
a physician, 250 ; starts for Kam- 
rasi's country in the south, 256 ; 
arrival at Shooa, 260 ; its difficult 
progress from Shooa to Kamrasi's 
territories, 266 et seq. ; deceit of 
the guide, 267 ; desolate state of 
the countiy, 268 ; arrival at the 
Victoria Nile, ib. ; forbidden to*. 
enter Kamrasi's country, 271 ; 
difficulties in the way, 274 ; kindly 
received by the natives, and re- 
freshments given, 275 ; extract. 
from the journal describing thp 
delay at Atada, 280—288; the 
escort crosses the river to Kam- 
rasi's 'country, 282 ; marches 
parallel with the Victoria Nile, 
283 ; great sickness, 284 ; Mr. and 
Mrs. Baker seriously ill, ib. ; 
reaches the capital of Kamrasi, 
286 ; their miserable reception, 
287 ; conference with the king of 
Unyoro, 288, 289, 290 ; and his 
brutal treatment, 296, 297; 
miseries of the route from Kam- 
rasi's country, 302 et seq. ; dis- 
covery of the Albert N'yanza, 308; 
the first draught from its waters, 
309 ; geography of the lake and 
the country surrounding it, 311 
et" seq. ; discovers the Albert 
N'yanza to be the great reservoir 
of the Nile, 313 et seq. ; navigates 



INDEX. 



485 



the great lake, 317 et seq. ; in lat. 
1 ° 33' N. , 31 8 ; arrives at Magungo, 
329 ; detention at, for want of 
porters, 346 ; treachery of the 
natives, and intense suffering from 
hunger and fatigue, 350 et seq. ; 
in perfect despair, 348, 351 ; after 
being deceived by Kamrasi, again 
joins Ibrahim's escort, 353 ; Kam- 
rasi an impostor, 355 ; introduced 
to the real king Kamrasi, and 
supplied with provisions in Ki- 
soona, 358, 370 ; become nego- 
tiators with the hostile parties, 
370, 371 ; saved by the British 
flag, 372 ; message sent to Ibra- 
him, 380 ; their march to Fo- 
weera, 392 eiseq. ; receives letters 
and papers from England, 400 ; 
Ibrahim's return and generosity, 
401 ; surrounded by plenty and 
in great comfort, 401, 402 ; quits 
the territory of Kamrasi, 410 ; 
arrives at Shooa on the fifth 
day's march from the Victoria 
Nile, 411 ; Mr. Baker's extraor- 
dinary influence over the people, 
417, 418 ; arrival at the Nile 
on returning from Shooa, 425 ; 
reaches the limit of Signor Miani's 
journey from Gondokoro, ib. ; 
enthusiasm on our meeting with 
the Nile, fresh from its great 
parent, the Albert Lake, 426 ; 
attacked in the pass of the Asua 
river by the Baris, 430 ; arrival 
at Gondokoro, 435 ; disappoint- 
ment at not finding boats, letters, 
or supplies, ib. ; given up as 
dead or lost, ib. ; melancholy re- 
flections, ib. ; departure from 
Gondokoro, and farewell to Ibra- 
him, 438 ; voyage down the Nile 
from Gondokoro to Khartoum, 
439 et seq. ; visited by plague, 
458 ; arrival at Khartoum, 460 ; 
given up for lost, 461; departure 
from Khartoum, 465 ; arrival at 
Berber, and route from, 466 ; the 
Red Sea route to Egypt, 467 ; 
fi fight with the Arabs of the 



desert, 467, 468, 469 ; arrival at 
Souakim, 471 ; meets with Eng- 
lish comforts at Suez, 472 ; arrival 
at Cairo, ib. ; farewell to Africa, 
ib. ; the Royal Victoria Medal 
awarded, 473 ; heights of stations 
above the sea-leveL 475 ; thermo- 
meter used, 476. 



F. 



Fadeela, night visit of, 87 ; death 
of, 286. 

Faloro, outpost of, 68 ; the station 
of Debono, 207 ; Turkish station 
at, 264; chief of, resists the 
Turkish exactions, 414. 

Farajoke, ceremony of welcome at, 
206 ; elevated country at, 207 ; 
its defences, ib. ; hospitality of 
the chief, ib. ; arrival at one of 
the villages of, 256 ; favourable 
aspect of, ib. 

Fatiko, village of, 265 ; its friendly 
inhabitants, ib. 

Feathers specially intended for or- 
namenting the human head, 152. 

Female slaves, capture of, 240; ill- 
usage of, ib. ; brutality shown to, 
375 ; their comeliness, ib. 

Fever, vapour-bath for, 363 ; attacks 
of, 248 ; general prevalence of, 
290, 315. 

Fighting bracelets of Latooka, 133. 

Firing the grass to catch the large 
game, 178. 

"FilfiL" a fast horse, 121 ; unseats 
his rider on the charge of an 
elephant, and runs away, 204 ; 
his loss a severe blow, 207 ; his 
recovery, 211 ; a good horse for 
speed, but useless for the gun, 
216. 

Fish, a curious one, 26. 

Fish-eagle, the thief of duck-shoot- 
ing, 227. 

Fishes, wonderful varieties of, 182. 

Fishing in the Albert N'yanza, 309 ; 
at Magungo, 330, 331. 

Fish -spearing in the marshes, 45. 



486 



INDEX, 



Flies, nuisance of, 236, 237. 

Flour, method of purchasing it, 
240. 

Forced marches, 96. 

Foweera, camp at, 386, 387 ; march 
to, 391 et seq. ; difficulties of the 
route, 392; the country improves, 
ib. ; capture of a native, 393 ; 
approach to, at the bend of the 
Yictoria Mle, 374 ; arrival at, 
395 ; had been attacked by the 
M'was, 396 ; deserted by Kalloe, 
ib. ; threatened by the M'was, ib. ; 
the Expedition left in possession 
of, ib. ; the inhabitants butchered, 
403, 404. 

Fowooka at war with Kamrasi, 342 ; 
threatens Kisoona with invasion, 
367 ; his retreat and quarrel with 
Mahommed, 373 ; entirely routed 
by the Turkish party, 375. 

Front teeth extracted from the wo- 
men of Latooka, 137. 

Fruits of Obbo, 195, 196. 

Fugitive mutineer, punishment of a, 
127. 

Funeral dance, 153. 



G. 

Gaddttm Hee, 239 ; her contests 

with Saat, it. 
Gallas, tribe of the, 130. 
Game, abundance of, 149 et seq. ; 

rifles and bullets for the heavy 

game, 175. 
Garra, dye of the fruit, 24. 
Gamier, M. deputed to inquire into 

the slave trade, 463. 
Gebel el Assul mountain, 433. 
Gebel Kookoo, its level, 344 ; the 

precipitous mountain of, 427. 
Gebel Lafcet, the high peak of, 122, 

162, 193. 
Gebel Lardo, arrival at, 55. 
Geese at Latooka, 151 ; a crim- 
son-headed spur-winged goose, 

ib. 
Gellabat, town of, 5. 
Geographical Society, award the 



Royal Victoria medal to Mr. 
Baker, 473. 

Geology of Central Africa, 447 ; 
Sir R. I. Murchison's theory of, 
confirmed by recent discoveries, 
448 et seq. 

Giaffer Pacha, the Egyptian com- 
mander, his kindness and hospi- 
tality, 471. 

Giraffes, at the foot of the moun- 
tains of Latooka, 162, 163 ; their 
native habits, 215 ; no animal 
more difficult to stalk, ib. ; hunt- 
ing of the, 216 ; excitements of 
the chase, 217 ; the hunter de- 
feated, ib. 

Goat, methods of cooking a, 224. 

God, a knowledge of, commences 
with the history of man, 446 ; 
connected with mankind in every 
creed, 447. 

Gondokoro, arrival of the Expedi- 
tion at, 56 ; lat. and Ion. ib. ; a 
station of the ivory traders, ib. ; 
bad reception at, 57 ; description 
■of, 58 ; inhabitants of, 59 ; flocks 
and herds, ib. ; the members of 
the Expedition looked upon as 
spies, 61 ; a perfect heil for the 
slave trade, 61, 62 ; arrival of 
Captains Grant and Speke at, 65 ; 
their departure from, 71 ; Mr. 
Baker the first Englishman who 
had reached it, 70 ; departure 
from, 91 ; the first night's march, 
ib. ; return towards, 424 et seq. ; 
approach to, 433 ; cheering exul- 
tations on perceiving it, 434 ; 
disappointment at not finding 
boats, letters, or supplies, 435 ; 
melancholy news from Khartoum, 
436 ; plague at, 437 ; departure 
from, 438 ; voyage from, 439 ; 
1,636 feet above the sea level, 
475. 

Gondokoro river, 242. 

Goobo Goolah, one of Speke's de- 
serters, 383. 

Gourd, an excellent species of, in 
Obbo, 245 ; the prime utensil 
of the African savage, 279 ; great 



INDEX. 



487 



varieties of, 279 ; used as models 

for pottery, 280. 
Granaries of Shooa, 262. 
Grant (see Speke and Grant). 
Graves of the Arabs, 36. 
Ground-nuts of Obbo, 196. 
Gum Arabic, exported from the 

Soudan, 11. 
Gun accident, fatal, 72. 
Gunshot, rout caused by the report 

of a, 299, 300. 



H. 

Hair helmets of Latooka, 133. 

Hallil el Shami, the agent at Khar- 
toum, 465. 

Hamed, the elephant hunter, 171. 

Hamran Arabs, their method of 
hunting the giraffe, 215, 216. 

Harnier, Baron, his melancholy fate, 
52. 

Harpoons, of the Albert N'yan»a, 
92. 

Hassaniah, island of, 23. 

Headman of Kamrasi killed, 407. 

Hegleek trees, 122. 

Herr Morlang, chief of the Austrian 
Mission station, 51, 52. 

High treason, summary justice for, 
373. 

Hippopotami, 25 ; great numbers 
of, 35 ; one caught, 42 ; angry 
disputes respecting, 43 ; excel- 
lent soup made of, 44 ; numbers 
of, in the Albert Lake, 317 ; 
charges our canoe, 339. 

Horse's tail highly prized, 237. 

Human races, wonderful variety in 
all classes of the, 182 ; exhibit 
certain characters and qualifica- 
tions which adapt them for speci- 
fic localities, 182, 183. 

Human remains, heaps of, in the 
•vicinity of every town, 132 ; causes 
of, ib. 

Hunting, by the natives, 178 ; of 
antelopes, 120, 121. 

Hygeen dromedary, 161. 



L 



Ibrahim, commander of the Turk- 
ish traders, 108 ; conversation 
with, 109, 110 ; arrangements 
peaceably settled with him, 110 ; 
becomes a friendly ally, 117, 124 ; 
his quarrel with Mahommed Her, 
124 ; his intended attack on the 
mountaineers defeated, 139 ; his 
departure, 142 ; his return from 
Gondokoro, 180 ; begging of his 
people for presents, 188 ; seized 
with a dangerous fever, and cured 
by Mr. Baker, ib. ; quarrels of his 
people with the Latookas, ib. ; 
starts for Obbo, 224 ; determines 
to make a station there, 229 ; 
influence gained over his men, 
249, 250 ; starts for the Kamrasi 
country, 256 ; arrangements with 
on advancing to Kamrasi's terri- 
tory, 265 ; difficulties of his party, 
273 ; his men cross the river to 
Kamrasi's country, 282 ; forms au 
alliance with Kamrasi, 290 ; de- 
parts for the north, 292 ; instructed 
to attack Fowooka, 342 ; his 
party rejoined, 353 ; message de- 
spatched to from Kisoona, 380 ; 
his arrival from Shooa at Karuma 
Falls, 399 ; retreat of the M'was 
at his approach, 400 ; his presents 
to Mr. and Mrs. Baker, ib. ; assists 
Kamrasi in invading the Langgo 
country, 401 ; his presents for 
Kamrasi, 403 ; quits his territory, 
410 ; his immense quantities of 
ivory, 423 ; deserted by his 
porters, ib. ; bids the Expedition 
farewell on its departure from 
Gondokoro, 438. 

Ibrahimawa, a native of Bornu, and 
servant of Ibrahim, 186 ; his 
adventures, ib. ; named " Sin- 
bad the Sailor, " ib. ; an amateur 
botanist, and a useful ally in 
searching for all that was curious, 
212 ; his discovery of yams, ib. ; 
his various reminiscences, 228 ; 



488 



INDEX. 



his visit to England, 228 ; inde- 
fatigable slave-Hunter, 417. 

Insect life, wonderful varieties of, 
182. 

Interpreters, difficulty of obtaining, 
149 ; of the Bari country, 154. 

Ivory, the trade of the Nile, 11 ; 
exchanged for cattle, 14 ; arrival 
of, for the Turks, 374 ; immense 
quantities of, provided by Kam- 
rasi, 409. 



J. 

Joctian, chief of the Nuehr village, 
41, 42. to ' 

Johann, death of, 28. 



K. 



Kafoor river, 286, 298 • passage 

of the, 301 ; its difficulties, ib. 
Kaiigiri river empties itself into the 

Albert Lake, 324. 
Kajoro, king of Malegga, 311. 
Kalloe, a chief of Foweera, 392 ; 
one of his men captured as a spy, 
394 ; arrive at his village, 395 ; 
interview with, ib. ; deserts his 
village, 396 ; all his cattle seized, 
3Q8 ; captured and murdered, 
405 et seq. 
Kamrasi^ M'Kamma, king of TJny- 
oro, 68 ; his country a virgin 
land, and the king a despotic 
ruler, 242 ; the Lake Luta N'zige 
in his^dominions, 243 ; departure 
of theJExpedition for his country, 
256 ; had been attacked by De- 
bono's people, 263 ; arrival at his 
country, 270 ; difficulties in the 
way of seeing him, 271 ; presents 
intended for, 272 ; excitement of 
his servants, 272,273 ; the natives' 
dread of him, 272 ; their silence 
to every question, 276, 277 ; delay 
in waiting for reception, 280 ; his 
headman arrives, accompanied by 
Captain Speke's deserters, 281 ; 



delays on the road, 284, 285 ; his 
suspicious nature, 286 ; he sus- 
pects treachery, ib. ; interviews 
with, 288 ; various presents given 
to, 289 ; forms an alliance with 
Ibrahim, 290 ; his grasping spirit, 
291 ; his brutal proposal, 297 • 
his apologies, 298; his satanic 
escort, 298, 299 ; at war with 
Rionga and Fowooka, 342 ; his 
proposals, 351 ; sends fifty men 
as an escort, who carry Mr. Baker 
and party to his camp, 352 ; he 
seeks alliance, 354 ; his facetious 
behaviour on meeting the Eng- 
lish escort, ib. ; declares his real 
name to be M'Gambi, the brother 
of M'Kamma Kamrasi, 355 ; 
treated with contempt, ib. ; in- 
troduction to the real king of 
Unyoro, 358; his reception of 
the party, ib. ; a, remarkably 
fine man, 359 ; commences beg- 
ging, ib. ; left in disgust, ib. ; 
offers some presents, 360 ; a re- 
newal of his rapacious demands. 
364 etseq. ; his royal connexions, 
366 ; his wars with his different 
neighbours, 366, 367 ; his request 
for hostile assistance declined, 
367 ; his fear and cowardice 
when threatened by invasion, 
369 ; sends a deputation to the 
invaders, 370 ; begs for the British 
flag, 373 ; his begging importu- 
nities sternly resisted, ib. ; his 
enemies defeated and annihilated 
by the aid of the Turkish party, 
375 ; threatened with invasion, 
382 ; his retreat, 385 ; begs the 
assistance of the Expedition, 
which is refused, 396 ; compelled 
to give up the cattle belonging 
to the Expedition,, 39,9 ; relieved 
by Ibrahim's reinforcements, 400; 
invades the Langgo country, 401 ; 
variety of presents for, brought 
by Ibrahim, ib. ; delighted with 
whisky, 402 ; a supreme despot, 
408 ; his body-guard, ib. ; his 
last adieuj 409 ; provides the re- 



y 



INDEX. 



489 



quisite number of porters, 409 ; 
the Expedition quits his territory 
along with the Turks, 410. 

Kanleti river, arrival at the, 118, 
191 ; bivouac on the, 192 ; the 
adjoining mountains, 193. 

Karka, the female slave, 459. 

Karuma, departure for, 269. 

Karuma Falls, 267, 270, 273 ; dif- 
ference of the level between them 
and the Albert Lake, 343, 344 ; 
actual measurement of the fall, 
344, 345 ; 1,000 feet between 
them and the Albert Lake, 427 ; 
3, 737 feet above the sea level, 475. 

Karche, village of, 300. 

Katchiba, the chief of Obbo, 197 ; 
his diplomacy, 200, 211 ; a pre- 
tended magician, 211 ; "always at 
home," 201 ; his numerous wives 
and children, ib. ; portrait of his 
eldest son, 202 ; his favourable 
character, 203 ; his kind atten- 
tions to Mrs. Baker during her 
husband's absence, 208 ; on a jour- 
ney with his Hebe, 209 ; is thrown 
from the back of the horse Tetel, 
210>; mounts a donkey, 211 ; his 
magical ceremonies on parting 
from him, 212 ; his kindness and 
hospitality, 236, 237 ; the losses 
sustained by him from the Turks, 
238 ; Mr. and Mrs. Baker make a 
morning call upon him by ex- 
press desire, 245 ; his residence, 
ib. ; presents exchanged with him, 
247 ; his pretended rain-making 
powers, 251. 

Katikiro, commander-in-chief of 
Chopi, 68. 

Kattaga, town of, 128. 

Kayala, town of, attacked by the 
Turks, 221, 222 ; the cattle car- 
ried off, 222 ; courage of the 
women, ib. ; division of the spoil, 
ib. 

Keedja, the headman, 275. 

Khartoum, the capital of the Sou- 
dan provinces, 3, 4 ; arrival of 
the Expedition at, 7 ; description 
of, 8, 9, 63 ; mutiny of the escort 



from, and the difficulties of con- 
trolling them, 64 ; small pay of 
the consulate, 247 ; melancholy 
news from, 436 ; slave-trade sup- 
pressed at, ib. ; plague raging at, 
ib. ; arrival of the Expedition on 
its return, 460 ; warmly received 
at, ib. ; letters awaiting the return 
of the Expedition, 461 ; dreadful 
plague in, ib. ; extraordinary 
dust-storm at, 462 ; departure 
from, 465. 

Khartoumers, villanous cut- throats, 
243. 

Kinyoro language, 68. 

Kisoona, village of, 355, 356 ; at 
home in, 360 ; plenty of pro- 
visions here, 361; threatened with 
invasion by Fowooka, 368, 369 ; 
threatened by the M'was, 383, 
384 ; untenable, 385. 

Kitangule river, 313. 

Kittara, kingdom of, 69. 

Koorshid Aga, 39, 40, 42, 44 ; 
Austrian Mission -station sold to, 
52 ; a Circassian trader, 64, 81 ; 
his advice, 82 ; sends a Bari boy 
as interpreter, 83 ; threats of his 
people, 89 ; the miserable cut- 
throats belonging to his party, 
239 ; a bold-spoken robber, 242 ; 
value of his friendship, ib. 

Kokreb, arrival at, 470 > adjoining 
range of mountains, ib. 

Korosko, arrival of the Expedition 
at, 8. 

Koshi, country of, 68, 312, 426 ; 
exit of the Nile from the lake of, 
312. 

Kytch tribe, chief of the, and his 
daughter, 46 ; their starved con- 
dition, 47 ; a most pitiable race of 
savages, 47, 48 ; their peculiar 
customs, 48, 49. 



Lafeet, the highest peak of the 
western chain of Africa, 126. 

Land above the Albert Lake, 4,117 
feet above the sea level, 475. | 



490 



INDEX. 



Langgo country, invaded by Kain- 
rasi and Ibrahim, 401. 

Languages of the Bari, the La- 
tooka, and the Madi, 199 ; of 
Central Africa, 446. 

Latome, town of, 123 ; march from, 
132. 

Latooka country, 88 ; preparations 
for leaving, 89, 90 ; guides from, 
102; thievesof, 119; their punish- 
ment, 120 ; a rebel town of, 127 ; 
natives of, 129, 130 ; fine-made 
savages, 129 ; Tarrangolle, the 
chief. town of, 129, 131 ; their 
cavalry, 130 ; the great chief of, 
130, 135 ; origin of the tribe, 130 ; 
scarification of the women to 
improve their beauty, 137, 138 ; 
polygamy the general custom, 
138 ; the value of wives in, 138, 
139 ; war-signals in, 146 ; and 
answers to the, 147 ; warlike j>re- 
parations against, ib. ; the im- 
pending attack averted, 148 ; 
cattle or meat not to be ob- 
tained, 149 ; the language of, 
different from the Bari, 155 ; de- 
scription of, and climate, 162 ; 
herds and game of, ib ; black- 
smiths of, 165 ; return to, from 
the Obbo country, 211, 212, 218; 
despbiled by the Turkish traders, 
226 ; the white ants a curse upon 
the country, 229, 230. 

Latookas, a fine and warlike race, 
130 ; their wealth in cattle, &c, 
131 ; their treatment of the dead, 
132 ; toilette of the natives, ib. ; 
hair helmets of the, 133 ; their 
fighting bracelets, ib. ; their war- 
like weapons and shields, 134 ; 
the women of, ib. ; Bokke, wife 
of the chief, 135, 136 ; ornaments 
of the women, 136 ; their front 
teeth extracted, 137, 138 ; defeat 
Mahommed Her, and massacre 
his party, 139, 140 ; their re- 
joicings, 141 ; their quarrels with 
the Turks of Ibrahim's party, 
188 ; their refusal to grant sup- 
plies to the Expedition, 189 ; 



their brave resistance against the 
Turks, 222 ; their cattle carried 
off, ib. ; scarcity of salt among 
the, 224 ; their ingratitude, 256. 

Legge, chief of the tribe in the 
mountains of Ellyria, 90, 111, 
112; his ferocity and avarice, 112, 
113 ; his extortionate demands 
and beastly intemperance, 113 ; 
his greediness, ib. 

Lepidosiren annecteus, 331. 

Life and death, discussion on, with 
Commoro, 155 et seq. 

Lira, a new country near Shooa, 
412 ; the natives of, ib. ; their 
dress like that of a well-blacked 
barrister in full wig, and nothing 
else, 413 ; manners and customs, 
ib. ; at war with their neigh- 
bours, ib. ; portrait of the old 
chief, 422; peculiar head-dress of, 
ib. ; natives of, act as porters to 
the Expedition, 424. 

Loading and unloading the camels 
and donkeys, delays of, 97. 

Loggo, the Bari interpreter, 154 : 
his notions of the Magungo river, 
220. 

Lotus harvest of the White Nile, 
55. 

Luta N'zige, lake, 66 ; its important 
position, 67 ; Bacheeta's report 
respecting, 241 ; importance of, 
if proved to be one source of 
the Nile with a navigable junc- 
tion, 243 ; advantages of, as a 
trading emporium for Central 
Africa, ib. ; reported to be larger 
than the Victoria N'yanza, 283 ; 
fed by the great mountain Bar- 
tooma, ib. 



M. 

M'Baz:e, village of, 300. 
M'Caroli, country of, 312. 
M'Fumbiro, the great mountain, of 

Speke, lat. 2° 5' 32", 283. 
M'Gambi, the pretended Kamrasi, 

who had impersonated the king, 



INDEX. 



491 



355 ; his fright at the threatened 
invasion, 386 ; begs the assistance 
of the Expedition, 396 ; his great 
distress, 399. 

M'rooli, Kamrasi's country, 271 ; 
river level of, 345 ; captured, 
382 ; 4,291 feet above the sea 
level, 475. 

M'tese, king of Uganda, 366 ; a 
message received from, 368. 

M'was, their threatened invasion 
of Kisoona, 382, 384, 385 ; camp 
of the, 392 ; overrun the entire 
country, even to the shores of 
the Albert Lake, 399 ; retreat on 
the approach of Ibrahim with 
reinforcements, 400. 

M'wootan N'zige, the native name 
of the Lake N'zige, 288. 

Madi country, language of the, 199 
marauding expedition to the, 237 
cattle captured from the, 259 
hostility of the natives, 332, 333. 

Magic, implicitly believed in by 
savages, 203, 382. 

Magungo, cowrie-shells brought 
from, 219 ; situated on a large 
lake, 220 ; its probable latitude, 
ib. ; could be no other than the 
Lake N'yanza, ib. ; king of, called 
" Cherry bambi, " 221 ; Bacheeta's 
report respecting, 241 ; the Albert 
Lake at, 314 ; arrival at the town 
of, 329 ; visit of the king, ib. 
fishing arrangements of, 330 
hospitality of the natives, 331 
Victoria Nile at, 333 ; 2° 16' due 
west from Atada, 334 ; departure 
from, 335. 

Maharif antelope, 214. 

Mahomet pitched from his ox, 434. 

Mahommed, the vakeel of Andrea 
Uebono, 73, 74, 261 ; arrange- 
ments with him for an escort, 74; 
his treacherous conduct, 74, 75, 
79 ; his mutinous plot, 79 ; leader 
of an invading party, 371 ; at 
Sliooa, 418 ; his retreat, 374 ; his 
quarrel with Fowooka, ib. 

Mahommed Her, 28 ; the arch-slaver 
of the Nile, 28, 124 ; his quarrel 



with Ibrahim, ib. ; defeated by 
the mountaineers, and his party 
massacred, 139, 140 ; the in- 
stigator of mutiny, 463 ; arrested 
and punished, 464. 

Makkarikas, a cannibal tribe, 186 ; 
their disgusting voracity, 187. 

Malegga, great kingdom of, 311 : 
natives of 312. 

Manis, the great scaled ant-eater, 
255. 

Marauding expedition, 237. 

March, order of, among the traders, 
115, 116. 

Marsh land, varies in width, 38. 

Marshes, mosquitoes of the, 44 ; 
miseries of the, 50. 

Matta Goomi, a chief, meets the 
Expedition, 2S3. 

Meat, difficulty of obtaining at La- 
tooka, 152. 

Medicines, successfully applied, 
249. 

Mehedehet antelopes, 258 ; stalking 
the, 259. 

Men and beasts in a bad temper, 
50. 

Miani, Signor, the limit of his 
journey from Gondokoro, 425. 

Milk, supplied with abundance of, 
in Kisoona, 360 ; profusely used 
to fatten the wives of king Kam- 
rasi, 361. 

Mimosa forests, 24. 

Moir, province of, 433. 

Molotes, agricultural implements of 
Latooka, 164, 165. 

Monkey Wallady, its mischievous 
tricks, 100 ; its amusing grimaces, 
104, 105. 

Moomtazze Bey, governor of Soua- 
kim, 471. 

Moorhaka, for grinding corn, 42. 

Moosa Pasha, Governor-general of 
the Soudan, 8 ; his despotism, 
9 ; ignores the firman of the 
Expedition, 16 ; demands a poll- 
tax, 19. 

Morass, difficulties of passing 
through a, 300. 

Mosquitoes of the marshes, 44. 



492 



INDEX. 



Mountains, curious phenomenon in 
the, 226 ; extending from Suez 
parallel with the Red Sea, 470. 

Mountains of • the Moon, nothing 
known of them to the westward 
of Ruanda, 70. 

Mouse, the last horse of the Ex- 
pedition, death of, 237 ; his 
tail highly prized by the natives, 
ib. 

Moy of Latooka, and his ladies, 
136 — 138 ; Mr. Baker's interview 
with, on the ill-treatment of the 
women, 144, 145. 

Murehison, Sir R. I. his theory of 
the geology of Central Africa 
confirmed by recent discoveries, 
448. 

Murchison Falls, connected with 
the Victoria Nile. 338 ; the 
greatest waterfall of the Nile, 
ib. ; so called in honour of the 
President of the Royal Geogra- 
phical Society, ib. 

Murie, Dr. 72. 

Mutineers destroyed in a mountain 
attack, 141. 

Mutiny of the Khartoum escort, 62, 
63, 79, 80, 119, 120, 125, 126; 
all the plans of the Expedition 
thwarted thereby, 245. 



N. 



Native curiosity, 277. 

Native tit-bits, 101. 

Native witches, 381. 

Natives fishing, 35. 

Natron, quantities of, found, 42. 

Natural religious instinct, the world 

always actuated by, 447. 
Navigation, difliculties of, up the 

Nile, 32, 33; Central Africa opened 

to, 445. 
Necklaces, superb ones intended for 

Kamrasi, 272. 
Negro, a curious anomaly, 181 ; a 

creature of impulse, ib. ; absurd 

to condemn him in toto, as it is 



preposterous to compare his in- 
tellectual capacity with that of 
the white man, 181 ; cunning and 
a bar by nature, 182 ; in no in- 
stance has he evinced other than 
a retrogression when once freed 
from restraint, 183 ; why he was 
first introduced into our own 
colonies, and to America, 184 ; 
in a state of slavery compelled to 
work, ib. ; when freed he refuses 
to work, ib. ; for an example of 
the results, look to St. Domingo, 
185 ; his first act when emanci- 
pated is to procure a slave for 
himself, ib. 

Negro allies in the Soudan, 13. 

Negro women, cruel treatment of 
the, 86, 87. 

Negroes, their poverty and disgust- 
ing habits, 39, 240; their misery, 
45 ; the women daily quarrelling 
and fighting, 50 ; (see Savages). 

New Year's Day, 28. 

Night retreat, 391. 

Nile, Expedition to discover its 
sources, 1 et seq. ; difliculties of 
the attempt, 1, 2; failure of all 
previous expeditions, and the 
causes thereof, 2 ; Bruce' s disco- 
veries, ib. ; start from Cairo, ib. ; 
intended route, 3 ; causes of its 
inundations, 6, 7 ; progress of 
the Expedition along the, 21 et 
seq. ; character of the river, 22 ; 
the banks inhabited by Arabs, 
23 ; the Negro country, 27 ; 
course of the, ib. ; difliculties of 
navigation, 32 ; its marshes, 34 ; 
its endless windings near Abou- 
kooka, 50 ; arrival of Speke and 
Grant at Gondokoro, 65 ; their 
discoveries, 66 ; tortuous diflicul- 
ties of its source, ib. ; another 
lake reported to exist — the Luta 
N'zige, 66, 67 ; flows out of the 
Victoria Lake, 67, 68 ; drainage 
of the, towards the Sobat, 118; 
the scarabseus supposed to be the 
harbinger of the inundation, 244 ; 
exit of, from the lake at Koshi, 



INDEX. 



493 



312 ; the Lake Albert N'yanza 
discovered to be the great reser- 
voir of the, 313 ; the various 
sources of the, ib. ; the entire 
system exhibits a uniform drain- 
age from S.E. to N.W., 314 ; its 
exit from the Albert Late, 332 ; 
examination of its various geo- 
graphical aspects, 334 et seq. ; its 
junction with the Un-y-Ame, 
425 ; the Expedition again ar- 
rives at, 426 ; its width on en- 
tering the valley at Gebel Koo- 
koo, 228 ; now cleared of 
mystery, and resolved into com- 
parative simplicity, 439 ; the 
actual basin included between 
lat. 3° S. and 18° N. and long. 
22° and 39° E., 439 ; issues from 
the Albert Lake the entire Nile, 
but prior to its birth from that 
lake not the entire Nile, ib. ; the 
Victoria is the first source, but 
from the Albert the river issues 
at once as the great White Nile, 
440 ; course pursued by Speke 
and Grant from lat. 3° S. to 3° 
32' N., ib. ; the geographical 
question of its sources fully ex- 
plained, ib. ; sources of, as de- 
scribed by Ptolemy, ib. ; rain- 
falls of the, 441 ; voyage along 
the, from Khartoum to Berber, 

465 et seq. ; cataracts of the, 465, 

466 ; sources of the (see Victoria 
N'yanza and Albert N'yanza 
and "White Nile). 

Nile dam, 455 ; its obstruction and 
difficulties, 455, 456 ; passage cut 
through, 456, 457. 

Niles, junction of the two, 21. 

Nogara, the great war-drum, 
sounding of the, 146 ; answer to 
the, 147. 

Nubian Desert, journey across the, 
3 ; its difficulties, ib. 

Nuehr tribe, 35 ; first view of them 
coming to the boats, 39 ; their 
savage appearance and peculiar 
customs, 40, 41 ; portrait of their 
chief, 41. 



0. 

Obbo country, 190 ; presents re- 
ceived from the, ib. ; the Expe- 
dition departs for, 191 ; journey 
to, 192 ; arrival at, 194; the na- 
tives of, ib; its productions, 195 ; 
wild fruits of, ib. ; head-dresses 
of the women, 194 ; pottery and 
utensils of, 196 ; lat. and long, 
of, ib. ; its mountainous elevation, 
ib. ; climate and general aspect, 
ib. ; Katchiba, the chief of, 197 ; 
fete given at, ib. ; the women of, 
198 ; languages of, 199 ; the na- 
tives superior to the Latookas, 
200 ; the chief looked upon as a 
magician, 200, 201 ; Mrs. Baker 
left to his care, 203 ; return to, 
and feasting of the Expedition, 
208 ; departure from, 212 ; visited 
by Ibrahim, 228 ; arrival of the 
Expedition at, 235 ; having been 
eaten up by the Turkish traders, 
had become a land of starvation, 
ib. ; war-dance at, 237-; disgusting 
habits of the natives, 240 ; might 
become the clothing frontier of 
the South, 243 ; an excellent 
species of gourd in, 245 ; for 
months a miserable existence 
there dragged on, 249 ; influence 
gained over the people, 250 et seq; 
3,480 feet above the sea-level, 
475. 

Omer Bey, governor of the Soudan, 
464. 

Osman, the cabin boy, 22. 

Owinc, a chief in alliance with 
Mahommed, 418 ; murdered by 
him, 419. 

Ox, boiling the fat of. the, 240; a 
dead one restored, 306. 

Oxen trained for transport instead 
of horses, 249 ; difficulties at- 
tending them, 256 ; all killed by 
the flies, 346. 



Panyoro country, 
Papyrus rush, 32. 



494 



INDEX. 



Parkani, village of, near the great 
lake, 307. 

Patooan, island of, 341, 342 ; river 
level at, 343, 344, 345 ; detained 
at, for want of porters, 346 ; 
treachery of the natives, and in- 
tense suffering at, 346 et seq. 

Persian carpet, a present intended 
for Kamrasi, 272. 

Petherick, Mr. and Mrs. 70, 71, 72. 

Pitfall for trapping elephants, 177. 

Plague, at Khartoum and Gondo- 
koro, 436, 437 ; breaks out on 
board the vessel, 457, 458 ; its 
fatal effects in Khartoum, 461 ; 
caused by a horrible slave cargo 
at Khartoum, 463. 

Plantains of Unyoro, 283 ; in great 
abundance, used as food, 361 ; 
fibre of, manufactured, 362. 

Plums, yellow, found in prodigious 
numbers, 115. 

Poisoned arrows, effects of, 59, 60 ; 
shot by the Baris, 433. 

Pomone, island of, 53. 

Porcelain, manufacture of, 278. 

Porters, difficulty of obtaining, 293, 
301, 389 ; deserted by the, 388 ; 
provided by Kamrasi, 409 ; their 
exacting spirit, 414 ; their de- 
sertion of Ibrahim at Shooa, 423 ; 
Lira natives engaged for the Ex- 
pedition, 424. 

Potato whisky, manufacture of, 402. 

Pottery of Obbo, 196 ; of the natives 
of Unyoro, 279. 

Poultry, scarcity of, in Kisoona, 
381. 

Prairies, boundless extent of, 266. 

Pre- Adamite creation, speculations 
on, as connected with Africa, 446, 
447. 

Presents, the continued craving for, 
by the different chiefs, 294 ; de- 
manded by king Kamrasi, 365 et 
seq. 

Provisions at Latooka, 149 ; diffi- 
culty of procuring them, 239. 

Puff adder, of enormous'size, 233 ; 
its dangerous venom, 234 ; killed 
and skinned, ib. 



Q. 

Qtjanda, language of, 263. 



E. 



Rabonga, the Guide, 307 ; deser- 
tion of, 340. 

Rahad river, 5, 7. 

Rain, a storm of, 163, 164 ; its 
effects, 164. 

Rainfalls of the Nile, near the 
Equator, 441. 

Rainmaking, pretensions to, 251, 
252. 

Rats, swarms of, 236, 238. 

Razzias in the neighbourhood of 
Shooa, 414. 

Red Sea, route by the, to Egypt, 
467 et seq. ; welcome view of 
the, 471. 

Regiaf mountain, 433. 

Religion, the natives of Unyoro 
have no idea of, 382. 

Religious argument held with Com- 
moro, 155 et seq. ; failure of the, 
158. 

Rhinoceros, a black one, 421. 

Richarn, a black servant, 33 ; his 
fidelity, 76 ; his faithful services, 
81, 82 ; missing, 389 ; reported 
as being killed, ib. ; his return, 
397 ; his singular story, 398 ; mar- 
riage of, 467 ; engaged as servant 
at Cairo, 472. 

Riding-ox, perfectly recovered from 
his lameness, 412. 

Rifles for heavy game, 175. 

Rionga, his attack on Kamrasi, 
263 ; brother of, 268 ; inhospit- 
able treatment by his people, 269 ; 
beauty of his country, ib. ; at 
war with Kamrasi, 342 ; escape 
of, 376. 

Rionga's island, 80 feet above the 
Nile, 344, 345 ; 3,685 feet above 
the sea level, 475. 

River vegetation, 24. 

Rivers of Abyssinia, 5 ; their cha- 
racter, 6. 



INDEX. 



495 



Robber traders of the Nile, 223. 
Rout at the sound of a gunshot, 

299, 300. 
Rowers, supplied by the king of 

Eppigoya, 326, 327 ; curious 

custom of the, 327. 
Rumanika, king, 312. 



S. 



Saat, the Tokrooriboy, 24 ; a faith- 
ful servant, 75 ; his strange 
history, 76, 77 ; his first intro- 
duction to Mrs. Baker, 77 ; his 
honesty and fidelity, 78 ; dis- 
covers a mutinous plot, 79 ; his 
fighting courage, 147 ; becomes 
scientific, 238 ; his quarrels with 
Gaddum Her, 239 ; dies of the 
plague, 459. 

Saati the vakeel, 62. 

Salaam river, 5. 

Sali murdered by Kamrasi, 376. 

Sali Achmet killed by a buffalo, 
36. 

Salt, scarcity of, among the La- 
tookas, 224 ; its manufacture and 
value, ib. 

Salt-pits at Vacovia, 310. 

Sandpiper', seated on the head of a 
hippopotamus, 55. 

Satanic escort of Kamrasi, 298, 299 ; 
its suspicious character, 301. 

Savages hold to their cows and their 
women, 139 ; on a level with the 
brute, 153 ; all are ungrateful, 
thievish, idle, selfish, and cruel, 
ib. ; can only be ruled by force or 
humbug, 202 ; believe in sorcery, 
203 ; practical magic is all that 
is esteemed by them, ib. ; the 
gourd the model of their pottery, 
280. 

Scarabseus of the Nile, 240, 241. 

Schmidt, Johann, headman of the 
Expedition, 18 ; his death, 28. 

Sennaar, 5. 

Sesame, cultivation of, 262. 

Settite river, 5, 7. 

Shillook country, 27, 29, 436. 



Shillook tribe, 43. 

Shir tribe, characteristics of the, 
54"; manufacture of baskets and 
mats by the women, 55. 

Shoggo, 3,770 feet above the sea 
level, 475. 

Shooa, arrival at, 260 ; a lovely 
place, ib. ; beauty of the neigh- 
bourhood, 261 ; its elevation, ib. ; 
lat. and long. ib. ; disastrous 
state of, ib. ; ' ' flowing with milk 
and honey," 262 ; its cultivation 
and excellent granaries, ib. ; de- 
parture from, 264 ; a messenger 
sent to, from .Kisoona, 385 ; 
journey to, from Unyoro, 410 et 
seq. ; arrival at on the fifth day's 
march from the Victoria Nile, 
411 ; comfortable quarters at, ib. ; 
some months' residence at, 412 ; 
the people of, fighting with the 
natives of Fatiko, 413 ; the 
country around desolated by petty 
warfare, ib. ; illness at, 420 
shooting and sport at, ib. ; affect 
ing scene on leaving, 424, 425 
3,619 feet above th& sea level, 
475. 

Shooa Morn, misery endured at, 
from want of provisions, 348 et 
seq. ; 2,918 feet above the sea 
level, 475. 

Shooting wild ducks and cranes at 
Latooka, 149—151 ; a tetel, 205 ; 
antelopes, 420, 453, 454. 

Skins of goats, beautifully prepared, 
282. 

Slave girl killed and eaten by the 
Makkarikas, 187. 

Slave-hunters, defeat and massacre 
of, by the savages of Latooka, 
140, 141. 

Slave-markets, their distance, 15. 

Slave-trade of the Soudan, 11, 12 ; 
of the White Nile, 12 ; revela- 
tions of, 14 ; at Gondokoro, 60, 
61; of Africa — will England ever 
suppress it ? 239 ; orders received 
by the Egyptian Government to 
suppress the, 436 ; the slaves re- 
turned to their respective stations, 



496 



INDEX. 



437 ; the great curse of Central 
Africa, 443 et seq. ; difficulties of 
suppressing it, 445 ; suggestions 
for accomplishing the great ob- 
ject, 445, 446 ; special inquiry 
into the, 463. 

Slavery (see Negro). ■ 

Slaves, recapture of, 417 ; saved by 
Mr. Baker, ib. ; cruelties to, 418 ; 
kindness extended to, by Mr. 
Baket, ib. ; horrible cargo of, 
463 ; cause a plague at Khartoum, 
ib. 

Smalhpox, attacks the escort, 219 ; 
scourge of the tribes of Central 
Africa, ib. ; prevalence of the, 
236. 

Sobat river, 30, 31 ; its peculiarities, 
34 ; rises far south, ib. ; drainage 
of the Nile towards the, 118 ; an 
affluent of the Nile, 442. 

Somerset river, altitude of the, 293 ; 
so named by Captain Speke, 441 ; 
another name for the Victoria 
Nile, ib. ; (see Victoria Nile). 

Sooli, extensive country of, 207. 

Soont trees produce an excellent 
tannin, 24. 

Sorcerers in Kisoona, 381. 

Sorcery believed in by savages, 
203. 

Souakkn, arrival at, 471 ; kind re- 
ception by the Governor, ib. ; its 
advantageous position for com- 
merce, ib. ; arrival of an Egyptian 
steam frigate at, ib. 

Soudan, provinces of the, 7, 8 ; its 
miserable government and official 
extortions, 8 et seq. ; productions 
of, 11 ; slave trade of the, ib. ; 
scarcity of money in, 12 ; the na- 
tives the greatest of scoundrels, 
235 ; — ten years' residence in 
would spoil an angel, 256 ; famine 
and plague in the, 461. 

Soul, discussion on the, with Com- 
moro, 155 et seq. 

Sources of the Nile, observations 
on the, 461 (see Victoria N'y- 
akza and Albert N'yanza). 

Speke and Grant, their East African 



expedition, 1, 2 ; inquiries for 
at Gondokoro, 57 ; reports of, 
ib. ; their arrival at Gondokoro, 
and meeting of Baker's Expedi- 
tion from the north, 64, 65 ; 
their enthusiastic welcome, 65 ; 
their discoveries, 66 ; report the 
existence of another lake, the 
Luta N'zige, 66, 67; their advice 
and instructions, 67 — 70 ; their 
departure for Khartoum, 71 ; in- 
telligence of their journey from 
Lake Victoria, 276 ; Mr. Baker 
pronounced to be Speke's brother, 
281; the lustre of their achieve- 
ments, 440 ; they traced the 
country from Zanzibar to the 
southern extremity of the Victoria 
N'yanza (lat. 3°- S.), traced the 
river to Karuma Falls, lat. 2° 15' 
N., and subsequently met the 
Nile in lat. 3° 32' N., 440 ; credit 
due to them for discovering the 
most elevated source of the Nile 
in the great Victoria N'yanza, 
4^0 ; news of Speke's melancholy 
death, ib. 

Spirit, manufacture of, 402. 

Stalking of antelopes, 120, 121, 420, 
453, 454. 

Stations above the mean level of 
the sea, 475. 

Storms at Latooka, 162 ; their 
effects, 163, 164 ; their extreme 
violence, 234 ; on the Albert 
Lake, 322. 

Suez, arrival at, 472 ; comforts of 
an English hotel at, ib. 

Sugar-cane indigenous, 306. 

Suleiman, a powerful choush of 
Ibrahim's party, 124, 142, 372 ; 
his preparations for contest, 146. 

Supreme Being, African savages 
have no idea of, 381. 

Swamps, poisonous exhalations of 
the, 24. 

T. 

Taccazt river, 4. 

Tarrangolle, the chief town of La- 



INDEX. 



497 



tooka, 129, 130 ; population of, 
ib. ; description of the town, 
131 ; deserted by the women and 
children, 144 ; hostile prepara- 
tions in, 146 ; the war-signals of, 
ib. ; camp at, 148, 149 ; situation 
of the town, 150 ; storm at, 163 ; 
2,047 feet above the sea level, 
475. 

Taxes of the Soudan, 10. 

TeteL the old Abyssinian hunter, 
167, 168 ; his laziness during an 
elephant hunt, 170, 171 ; dis- 
mounts the Obbo chief, 210. 

Tetels, shooting of, 205, 411 ; a fine 
herd of, ib. 

Thermometer used by Mr. Baker in 
determining heights, 476 ; tables 
of the reading of the, 477, 478. 

Tobacco of Obbo, 196. 

Tollogo, arrival at, 101 ; imperti- 
nence of the natives, 102 ; a rude 
interrogator at, 103 ; arrival of 
the chief, ib. ; the natives brutal 
in manner, 105. 

Tombe, the chief of Tollogo, 104. 

Tooth-comb, Kamrasi in love with 
a, 365. 

Tori, king of, 312. 

Trade in a distant country difficult 
from the want of means of trans- 
port, 243. 

Traders of the Nile, 11 ; their in- 
famous character, 13, 14 ; mere 
colonies of robbers, 53 ; atrocities 
of the, 61 ; their arrival from 
the south, 64, 65 ; excitement 
caused thereby, 65 ; their bivouac, 
92 ; their hostility to the Expe- 
dition, 117 ; their order of march, 
ib. ; their rascality, 145. 

Trading in Kisoona, 362, 363 ; 
tricks attempted, ib. 

Transport animals, death of the, 
245, 246. 

Tree, a fight with the Arabs for the 
shade of a, 467. 

Tullaboon, crop of, 251 ; trodden 
down by the elephants, 253 ; 
granary of, discovered, 348. 

Tumuli of ashes, 53. 



Turkish traders, the Expedition 
outmarched by the, 98 ; disagree- 
able dependence on the, 229 
their cruelty and brutality, 232 
leave Latooka for Obbo, 239 
their arrival at Obbo, 235 ; hosti- 
lities caused by the, ib. 

Turks, their salute, 122 ; insult 
and beat the women, 142, 143 ; 
punished by the women, 143 ; 
resistance to the, 144 ; result of 
their misconduct, ib. ; threat- 
ened by the Latookas, 1 46 ; their 
preparations for defence, 147 ; the 
rattle of their drum in answer to 
the nogara of Latooka, 147 ; 
their behaviour improved, 148 ; 
their arrival in the Latooka 
country, 158 ; their quarrel with 
the Latookas, 188, 189, 190 ; 
their capture of the cattle, and 
division of the spoil, 222, 223 ; 
attack the town of Kayala, 221, 
222 ; repulsed, 223 ; set out for 
Obbo, 224 ; murder a native 
of Kayala, 225 ; disturbances 
caused by their cruelties, 226 
Latooka despoiled by the, ib. ; in 
fluence gained over the, 249, 250 
their standard bearer killed, 259 
their capture of slaves, 260 ; rejoin 
their detachment, 353 ; large 
arrival of ivory for, 374 ; ample 
stores of provisions sent to, 375 ; 
entirely rout Fowooka, ib. ; their 
bullying spirit, 378 ; completely 
in Mr. Baker's power, 379 ; their 
destructive razzias near Shooa, 
414 ; resisted by the chief of 
Ealoro, ib. ; and defeated in their 
attack, 415 ; their brutalities, 
416 ; their murder of a native, 
417. 

Turtle, real, is mock hippopotamus, , 
44. 

IT, 

Uganda, frontier of, 304. 
Ulcerated legs at Shooa, 420. 
Un-y-ame river, 266 ; its junction 



K K 



498 



INDEX. 



with the Nile, 425 ; limit of na- 
vigation from the Albert Lake, 
ib. 
Unyoro, 68 ; the territory of Kam- 
rasi, a virgin land, 242 ; diffi- 
culties on entering the country, 
263 ; freemasonry of, 277 ; diffi- 
culty of obtaining provisions, ib. ; 
the bark cloth of, 278 ; provisions 
supplied, ib. ; dress of, ib. ; the 
northern district called Chopi, 
ib. ; blacksmiths of, 279 ; the 
natives particularly neat in all 
they do, 282 ; manufactures of, 
283 ; clothes and beads in great 
demand, ib. ; the country thickly 
populated, and extensively culti- 
vated, ib. ; the luggage of the 
Expedition carried gratis, ib. ; 
hospitalities of, 284 ; agricultural 
implements of, ib. ; temperature 
of, ib. ; filthiness of the native 
dwellings, 285; miserable recep- 
tion by the king of, 286; the na- 
tives peculiarly clean feeders, 
306 ; require no remuneration for 
porterage, ib. ; protected by the 
British flag, 371 ; the men pass 
the night in uproarious merri- 
ment while the women per- 
form the labour of the fields, 
380 ; journey from, to Shooa, 410 
et seq. 



Vacovia, a fishing village on the 
Lake N'yanza, 309 ; salt-pits of, 
310; lat. and long., 315; un- 
healthiness of the climate, ib. 

Vapour-bath for fever, 363. 

Vegetable kingdom, wonderful va- 
rieties in the, 182. 

Victoria and Albert Lakes, the two 
great equatorial reservoirs of the 
Nile, and the recipients of all 
affluents south of the equator, 
439. 

Victoria N'yanza, the lake whence 
the Nile waters flow, 67 ; the 



Luta N'zige reported to be the 
larger one, 283 ; fed by the great 
mountain Bartooma, ib. ; one of 
the great sources of the Nile, 
308 ; the eastern source, 314 ; 
the Nile stream from it meets the 
Albert Lake at Magungo, 314, 
329 ; gathers all the waters on 
the eastern side, and sheds them 
into the northern extremity of the 
Albert Lake, 439 ; thus being the 
first source of the Nile, while from 
the Albert the river opens at 
once as the Great White Nile, 
440 ; the most elevated source of 
the Nile, 461. 

Victoria Nile, the Expedition ar- 
rives at the, 268 ; description of 
the, 269, 270 ; passage of the 
river forbidden, 271 ; the Expe- 
dition marches parallel with the, 
283 ; at Magungo, 333 ; voyage 
up the, 336 ; connected with the 
Murchison Falls, 338. 

Victoria Gold Medal awarded to Mr. 
Baker, 473. 



W. 

Wakkala, village of, 118 ; abun- 
dance of game at, ib. 

Wani, the Bari guide and interpre- 
ter, 219 ; his important informa- 
tion, 220. 

"War-dance at Obbo, 237. 

War-drum of Latooka, 146. 

War-signals, in Latooka, 146. 

Wares for sale, crying of, in Kisoona, 
362. 

Wat Shely, 23. 

Watches, loss of, 238. 

Water, badness of, throughout the 
White Nile, 51 ; want of, 96, 388; 
contests for, 142, 143. 

Water-lilies in full bloom, 25. 

Water- plants, floating islands of, 
25. 

Werdella, Chief of Faloro, resists 
the Turkish exactions. 414 ; de- 
feats them in their attack, 415. 



INDEX. 



499 



" Wheels within wheels, " 263. 

Whisky distillery, 402 ; restores 
Mr. Baker's health, ib. 

Whistles, general use of, 212 ; sup- 
posed effect on the rain, 252 ; 
considered infallible, ib. 

White ant towers, 46, 47. 

White ants, a curse upon the country 
of Latooka, 230 ; swarms of, 236. 

White Nile, disagreeable taste of its 
water, 5 ; receives the drainage of 
Abyssinia, ib. ; its steady yolume 
of water, 7 ; traders and slave- 
trade of the, 11, 12 ; its course, 
32 ; rises far south, 34 ; absurd 
descriptions of the, 38 ; badness 
of the water throughout, 51 ; 
lotus harvest of the, 55 ; the 
tribes bordering on the, 130 ; 
dammed up by a freak of nature, 
and a ditch cut through the ob- 
struction, 436 ; affluents of the, 
441, 442 ; dammed by an extra- 
ordinary obstruction, 455, 456; 
this part of the Nile a boundless 
marsh, 455 ; its sudden disap- 
pearance, 456. 

Wild boar shot, 255. 

Wild duck-shooting, 149, 150. 

Witches of Kisoona, 381. 

Wives, the value of, in Latooka, 
138, 139. 



Women, brutality towards the> 116; 
of Latooka, 134, 135 ; insvdted 
and beaten by the Turks, 143 ; 
their resistance, ib. ; desert the 
town of Tarrangolle, 144 ; of 
Obbo, 198, 199 ; their saleable 
price, 223 ; their lives spared in 
war, ib. ; perform the labour of 
the fields, 380. 



Yams, discovery of, 212 ; their pur- 
gative effects, 213 ; some of the 
tribe are poisonous, ib. 

Yaseen, the elephant hunter, 168, 
170, 171 ; meeting with, 353 ; 
dies of the plague, 457. 

Ye river, an affluent of the White 
Nile, 442. 



Z. 



Zambesi, affluent of the, 449, 450. 
Zanzibar, expedition from, 1. 
Zareeba, station of, 45. 
Zeneb, the wife of Richarn, hei 
warlike spirit, 468. 



THE END. 



R. CLAV, SON, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS iJREAD STREET HILL. 






Li 



